Night of Stars Modern Voices 3 FGI Frontliner Bringing Fashion Home 4 FGI Frontliner The Total Man: A Shot in the Arm For Retail? 5 FGI Frontliner Strategies for Entering the Chinese Market 6 Five Questions with a Rising Star Dana L. Bronfman Peyman Umay Kia Ragland 7 Upcoming Events 8 Spring / Summer 2018 RTW Chair Katie Kretschmer Editor / Contributing Writer Writers / Editors Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer Graphic Design Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics Photography Nancy Jeffries Patrick McMullan Co. THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DECEMBER 2017 1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 . 1. Fashion Superstar Dries Van Noten with presenters Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez 2. Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Award winner Kerry Washington with Liz Rodbell 3. Fashion Star Thom Browne with presenter Dwayne Wade 4. Beauty Star Jamie Kern Lima with presenter Sunhee Grinnell 5. Humanitarian Star Terry Lundgren with presenter Tommy Hilfiger 6. Board of Directors Media Award winner Bridget Foley with presenter Marc Jacobs NIGHT OF STARS 3 2 4 1 5 6
Board of Directors Media AwardBridget Foley, Women’s Wear Daily
Multimedia RetailMichael George, QVC
Technology in Brand DevelopmentRebecca Minkoff & Uri Minkoff
Fashion Legend Marylou Luther
FGI’s annual Night of Stars gala at Cipriani Wall Street on October 26 brought out a glamorous galaxy of fashion, retail, design and beauty stars, all in their sparkly best and out to celebrate “Modern Voices,” who “change the way we build lives.”
The night began with a “Big Bang” when an unexpected Fashion Legend award for was presented to Marylou Luther by another icon, Stan Herman. MargaretHayes, FGI’s president, thanked the evening’s generous sponsors: AHQ – Accessory Headquarters, Arcade Beauty, Avon, Ecco Domani Wines of Italy, GeoffreyBeene, Hearst Magazines, IT Cosmetics, Kering, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, Mozna, Paris Hilton Fragrances & Parlux Ltd., QVC, Rebecca Minkoff, and ScentMarketing Inc/IFF.
Guests were wined and dined and awards were presented. Partway through, the evening’s emcee, Simon Doonan reminded the modern voices and their presentersto keep their speeches short. Not everyone took note, but then again, all the accolades and many (many) words of praise and thanks were well deserved.
–– Katie KretschmerEditor/Contributing Writer
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In response to an audience question regarding therole of e-commerce and the purist culture of eachof their brands, Miller said, “Calypso’s e-com-merce is quiet. We make sure it’s styled in anunexpected way, but we don’t push it. It could bebigger and faster, but it’s very healthy for ouroperating costs, which are extremely low. Peopleask if we’ve been traveling to Indonesia or else-where, and the answer is no. It’s good to have abudget. It makes you more creative. I actually likethe challenge. It’s better to have some restraint.”
Piirainen provided an example of serendipitousbrand outreach, describing how the recent GeorgiaO’Keeffe exhibition at The Brooklyn Museumincluded two Marimekko dresses amongO’Keeffe’s collection. “That was like free advertis-ing to us,” he said.
Clearly, the intersection between home and fash-ion is permeable, and while borrowing design aes-thetics, each segment retains uniqueness. FGIPresident Margaret Hayes asked whether there wasa course at the New York School of Interior Designfocusing on that intersection. Sprouls responded,“For younger students, it’s really lifestyle. There’sno specific course in the blurring of the lines, butit is part of what the students are learning in manyof their courses.”
Brand connection and longevity of the aestheticremained paramount for the panelists, with Millernoting a jadedness in the overload of social mediathat didn’t always ring true. The panelists all valued the authentic connection rather than fast-paced social media for brand promotion. Meleconcurred regarding social media traction. “It’s a‘for now’ phenomenon with the millennials. I thinkthe craze around a particular person is going towear thin,” he said, suggesting that clients willultimately opt for authenticity.
“We’re a tiny brand. You come to learn about itand you fall in love with it, and you keep returningbecause of the aesthetic,” said Miller, who hasbeen with Calypso St. Barth for 11 years. “We’venever had an ad campaign. Our brand is geared toan individual who is not chasing the trend, but ismore about the woman and her mind, her passion,her travels. We really have an aesthetic we staytrue to,” she said.
Mele said he didn’t believe in trends. “I’ve pridedmyself on the world history of design and aestheticmovements. I believe that the work that a designercompletes is really their calling card. That hasbeen my marketing,” he said.
Miller said Calypso had shifted away from offeringlarger items for the home, like couches. “Theyweren’t selling. We now include home in ourbrand, so you’ll see a pillow, for example, thatlooks like our dress. It’s part of the lifestyle brandwe have. We look at the textiles and when we putthe Calypso handwriting on the item and collabo-rate, it’s exciting and sells better. Getting back tothe intimacy aspect, buying a rug is less intimatethen buying something for the body. But, you stillmay have an emotional experience buying a rug.”
Origins of Inspiration
Mele said that inspiration comes from all differentareas of life. “The most amazing thing I’ve seen isthe redesign of the Calvin Klein flagship onMadison Avenue. I was floored. It was designed byRaf Simmons, and to me it did what Calvin Kleinhas always done. I thought it was unbelievable.”
Marimekko’s designer acknowledged the influenceof the Emmy-winning Netfl ix series, “TheHandmaid’s Tale.” “The dresses, the acting, the mood, the color, it was Hitchcockian,” saidPiirainen. “As a Finnish person, I love nature and lakes, there’s a strong connection with theoutdoors,” he said.
For Miller, an inspiration is music. “I’m fromBrooklyn, and I just saw DJ Khaled and DaveChappelle three weeks ago. Music really speaks tome,” she said.
What are the connections between fashion andhome interiors? Do fashion trends influence houseand home? A panel discussion held September14, at the New York Design Center, examined howthe marketing approaches of each industryinforms the other. Fashion Group Internationaland interior designer Christopher Guy, in whose showroom the event was held, welcomed attendees to enjoy the perspectives of an illustrious panel.
Ilene Shaw, founder of Shaw & Co. Productions,introduced the event, held at the opening ofDesign Week in New York City. She thankedMarimekko for its sponsorship, and acknowledgedthe role of the Fashion Group International, which,as a cornerstone of the fashion industry, also recognizes and welcomes the home industry, and encourages and awards young rising stars in both arenas. She thanked Guy for supportingthe presentation, and introduced Jon Spurlock,head of creative at Christopher Guy, who intro-duced the panel.
Home and Fashion Represented
David Sprouls, president of the New York School ofInterior Design was the moderator. He welcomedthe panelists, including Elisa Miller, creative directorfor Calypso St. Barth; Mika Piirainen, fashiondesigner for Marimekko; and interior designerPatrick Mele.
Sprouls’ first question focused on how fashioninfluences the home aesthetic. Miller noted thatat Calypso, their design concept is a seasonal one.“For us, the color palette or print direction we’refeeling is translatable from fashion to home.These things can be interchanged, particularlysmaller things,” said Miller.
Piirainen said, “Marimekko designs for happy daysfor everyday life.....For us, clothing and interiorhave always been related.” For Mele, each particularclient informs how the design will be created. “Wecreate our line based on a heightened version ofthat client. In terms of how the two are related,there is a constant conversation. There are adcampaigns around the collections that create thezeitgeist of each collection,” said Mele.
Marketing Differentiation
Asked whether marketing for home and fashionhas changed over time, the panel provided a rangeof perspectives. Piirainen said, “We sell an idearather than dresses at Marimekko. We don’t followtrends at all. As a Finnish designer, we are verypractical and functional. Our dresses from the’60s are still functional. Right now, we’re doingour Spring 2019 collection, so we trust what we’redoing. We’re not closing our eyes, but we’re justdoing what we’re doing. We have intuition.”
From left: Jon Spurlock, Patrick Mele, Elisa Miller, David Sprouls, and Mike Piirainen
denim trend by referencing popular ’90s TV shows“Friends” and “90210.” This led the panel toquestion whether men care about trends. Jennings“always fought” trends and believes that “men aremore interested in brands than trends.” However,Badia had a different view. “We can’t say theydon’t care because we’ll lose our jobs,” he joked.Kidding aside, Marden agreed and shared his viewthat men understand trends over time but theycare more about details like fabrics and cuts.
The increasing popularity of pink in men’s fashionwas another hot topic. Jennings credits KanyeWest’s collections with making more men open to wearing the color pink. While he said the head-to-toe pink looks shown on the runways arenot commercial, pink sneakers were always a top seller in the men’s department at Saks. Mardenechoed this sentiment, saying that while you won’tsee men walking down the street in pink Versacerunway looks, they might test the pink trend in theform of a t-shirt or a Common Projects sneaker.
New suiting was the final trend of the evening.Duncan fully embraces this trend, since he designs comfortable yet tailored clothingincluding structured knitwear. Snyder is also an authority on suiting, having launched the Ludlow Suit during his time at J. Crew, which taught American men how to wear more fitted suits. According to Snyder, suiting still makes up 30 percent of his business, mainly due to the price point. Coming from a department store background, Jennings had a different perspective. “The foundation of retail is the suit. That’s where the money is,” he said. However, he acknowledged a sea changein men’s fashion, saying, “the classic suit is no longer a symbol of power. It doesn’t have the same meaning.”
Trends and zodiac signs were top of mind on October 5th, when FGI gathered a group of menswear experts at the Hearst Tower to discuss the state of the industry. Alex Badia, style director of WWD , led the discussion and introduced the panelists by l isting their accomplishments and star signs. The group included Matthew Marden, Scorpio and style director of Esquire; Eric Jennings, Aries and former vice president of men’s, home, gifts and beauty for Saks Fifth Avenue; mensweardesigner Todd Snyder, Sagittarius; and DonradDuncan, Pisces and designer of Engineered For Motion (EFM).
The evening kicked off with a review of some ofthe latest menswear trends accompanied by commentary from the panel. When addressing the “Active Lifestyle / Street” trend, Badia wascareful with his phrasing. “We don’t like the word ‘athleisure,’” he shared. Marden believesthis trend has endured because “everyone worksin such a different way.” He thinks men needclothes that can take them through the unexpectedevents of their days.
Brand collaborations were the next topic. Snyderis a proponent of collaborations, having workedwith Champion, Timex and Redwing. “It takes youto a new place,” he said. Since he doesn’t havelarge marketing budgets for his own label, collab-orations help him gain exposure and grow hisbusiness. For example, his Champion collabora-tion makes up 50 percent of his volume. Duncanalso voiced his support for collaborations, havingsuccessfully partnered with large well-knownbrands like Dockers.
The panel then turned their attention to thedenim trend. Badia described the latest men’s
FGI Frontliner The Total Man: A Shot in the Arm For Retail? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
After the trend review, Badia did his best to liveup to the panel’s title. “When she said the totalman, I basically died,” he joked. The panelistsdebated where men get their fashion information.“Most people, Instagram is the source of informa-tion but they still appreciate the curation of amagazine,” Marden said. Badia agreed, sayingmagazines are “not providing information. The roleof a magazine is to inspire.” On the retail side,Jennings said the younger Saks shoppers wantedinformation from the store associates since theycrave human contact with real people. Meanwhile,Snyder said he uses Facebook, email newsletters,Instagram, digital marketing and influencer part-nerships to reach his consumers, who are typicallyaround 35 years old.
From there, the panel moved on to talk about the effect of fast fashion and iPhone culture on the menswear industry. Snyder said that whileretailers like Zara have changed everything withsame-season copies, he still has a positive out-look. “It makes us more creative,” he said.Jennings believes fast fashion has given rise to thecomeback of designer logos because they can’t beovertly copied.
Finally, the panel examined the link betweenmen’s fashion and grooming. “It’s everything,”said Marden. He believes a horrible runway collec-tion can be elevated by good grooming. Buildingon Marden’s views, Jennings shared that whenSaks created their men’s store in downtownManhattan, the grooming and barber section wasan integral part of the design concept.
From left: Todd Snyder, Alex Badia, Eric Jennings, Matthew Marstan and Donrad Duncan
On September 6, Fashion Group Internationalwelcomed a panel of experts to discuss newinsights into doing business in the Asian market,including investing, e-commerce, and brand-building, and offer tips to successfully enter themarket.
Moderated by Keith Holloway, CEO and director ofEcom Products Group, the panel included MarkSchaub, senior partner at King and WoodMallesons; Grant McCarthy, China ServicesMarketing Group at Baidu International; andAndrew Waters, chairman of Ecom Group & ChinaRetail Group. Holloway opened the discussion bynoting that to understand the Asian consumer itwas important to look at the reasons for wins andlosses in the market.
The heritage component is an important part ofthe appeal to the Chinese consumer. “TheChinese consumer wants to know the heritagestory. They want the heritage brands,” Waterssaid, noting that generally, any foreign brand isstill a cross-border brand, so it is key to know howto connect. “Retailers try to focus on what’strending overseas, but often they have too manysku’s. It’s important to focus on limited sku’s, nothuge collections,” he said.
Waters cited the example of H&M putting a StellaMcCartney dress in the Chinese market. It wassold out completely, while other stock in the storelanguished. “The Chinese want value, but if youwant to be a premium brand, you need to sell atpremium pricing. The Chinese are very savvy withthe Internet and they can tell what brands areselling for in different places, so you have to becareful with pricing,” he said.
Entering the Chinese Market
Sales potential is significant. “The numbersspeak for themselves,” said McCarthy. He described how the climate in the market corresponds to sales. Disposable income is high,
so spending power is high. The middle class isstrong, as are millennials, who are both strong andgrowing. “If you’re serious about your brand,China is the market to head to,” said McCarthy.
Protecting a brand with product trademarks isessential. Schaub said, “In the West, if you canprove first use, you’re okay, but in China, you haveto file and register first, and it’s very expensive.”It can become more expensive if your brand namehas been copied. He said that in certain cases, it’sadvisable to buy your brand name back, which canbe a lengthy process.
Waters said buying back trade names is a part ofdoing business in China. He explained hownumerous “trademark squatters” register brandnames, and the original owners have to buy themback. “It’s also important to trademark your brandname in Chinese and to make sure that it’s a goodtranslation of the name, otherwise it can be misconstrued in the Chinese market,” said Waters.
Logistics and payments are also key points inChina. “China is an open market internally, but forluxury goods people want to buy cross-border,”said Waters. He said fashion brands and luxurygoods are simpler than cosmetics. However, thelogistics are complex and massive, so cross-borderis the best way to go. “With the right cross-borderprovider, you can handle logistics simply, and cutdown on returns and costs. Your cross-borderimporter becomes your partner,” Waters said.Products have to comply with different standards,for example, dye compliance is a factor, and if it’s aprohibited item you can’t sell cross-border, hencean experienced cross-border provider is essential.
A Mobile Market
There are 450 million handsets in the market. “Aperson’s mobile device in China is literally theirphone, their credit card, and more,” said Waters.According to Waters, 65 percent of business inChina is conducted on a mobile device, while 35
percent is conducted on a desktop. “Having awebsite and mobile are critical for business inChina,” he said.
McCarthy said investing in e-commerce is essen-tial. Digital apps are powerful tools for navigatingthe market, and it’s crucial to understand and utilize Chinese social platforms and e-commerce.According to the panel, most of the shops andcafes in China don’t take credit cards. They takeWeChat. They don’t use email. They use WeChat.“WeChat is a combination of Facebook, Twitter,and much more,” said Schaub.
He added that it’s important to remember thevastness of this market. “China is not one market.It’s many different regions,” said Schaub. Heemphasized, “A good contract is good leverage,look at your position and work out the best deal.”
How to Succeed in China
Waters concluded with strategies to make yourbusiness successful in the Chinese market.• Really understand who your customer is.• When formulating your contract, understandcommercial terms and Chinese law.
• It’s a big market. Focus on and simplify your target.
• Create and maintain a low-cost, high-efficiencyplan.
From left: Mark Schaub, Grant McCarthy, Andrew Waters, and Keith Holloway
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being contacted to give quotes, speak at events,and represent Estée Lauder Companies and mycollege, FIDM, on multiple media platforms. I see this award shaping my career in the futureby creating opportunities for me to showcase mytalents.
2. Does the investment in a major branding event(such as a runway or party/presentation) make sensetoday or does social media work better to grow a brand?
DB: I think major branding events can be amazing, but that without social media presence,the public will not know about your show or presentation. It is nonnegotiable to create epic original content and consistently share it viasocial channels.
PU: The answer depends on where you stand with your brand. The most important thing inbusiness—and in life for that matter—is to knowwhere you are and who you are. For instance, ifyour brand does not have a properly runningwholesale operation yet with a full collection andstock inventory, you would have hard time justify-ing an investment in a runway show. Because thewhole idea to do a show, in my opinion, is to present the collection to buyers, bloggers, fashioneditors and other decision makers. If you are notprepared for a potential order following your show,you not only disappoint people but also ruinfuture relationships. The main goal for makingsuch investments in big productions should bebringing business in return, and that all dependson the readiness of your operation. To speak formy own brand, we are working on establishing aproper, whole operation so we can be prepared foranything before our next runway show. On theother hand, presentations and parties might beeasier to produce compared to runway shows.
Each January, FGI recognizes a group of up-and-coming designers, entrepreneurs and other creatives in the fashion, retail, beauty and decor fields.
As the rising stars of the industry, we thought it might be enlightening to ask them some questions about how they got this far, and what they see for the future. We've been featuring their replies here.
1. How has winning the Rising Star award affectedyour career, and how do you see it shaping your business/career in the future?
DANA L. BRONFMAN: Winning the Rising StarAward from FGI has helped elevate my credibilityto the next level. I see it opening up many doorsfor me, including capturing the attention of top retailers.
PEYMAN UMAY: Winning the Rising Star awardfrom an industry pioneer organization is definitely a great milestone in my career. Oneof the biggest challenges for early-stage fashionbrands is being acknowledged by decision makerssuch as fashion publishers, department store buyers, digital magazines, etc. Earning this award will be bringing more recognition andtherefore respect to the brand, in a sense. I see the Rising Star award title as a key that will hopefully let us achieve our near-future goals.I also believe it’s not actually about winning an award; what matters in this industry is whatyou do about it strategically, how you could growyour business, optimizing the aftermath of thisbeautiful recognition. Having said that, I and my team are trying to make the right businessdecisions to enhance our brand in the most effective way possible.
KIA RAGLAND: Winning the Rising Star Award hasreally helped me to be recognized for my work. It has been a whirlwind being contacted to givequotes, speak at events, and represent EstéeLauder Companies and my college, FIDM, on multiple media platforms. I see this award shaping my career in the future by creating oppor-tunities for me to showcase my talents.Winningthe Rising Star Award has really helped me to berecognized for my work. It has been a whirlwind
Peyman UmayRising Starwinner for Menswear
Dana L. BronfmanRising Star winner for fine jewelry
5 ive questions with the Rising Stars
As for social media, my angle is like fashionshows. We have been running a serious social-mediacampaign for my brand for the past coupleyears, since I launched the ready-to-wear line. Ihave a team that manages the brand in all socialmedia platforms. Although, simply because wedidn’t have an online shop, a retail store or a cor-ner in a department store, our efforts and invest-ments in social media campaigns haven’treturned to us as a solid business. We have quitesome following in press, national and internation-al as well as social media, and we have beenreceiving amazing feedback but there’s no outletfor our fans to purchase our designs except NewYork and Aspen. To change that and capitalize onour followers, we’re launching our first e-com-merce website allowing everybody to shop ourdesigns online. This will be a great addition to mybrand, as people will not just like our collectionbut purchase it.
KR: I feel that brands need both events and socialmedia today because the two go hand in hand.When a brand has a launch party, all the guestsand influencers post the event and product allover social media.
3. If you weren’t in your current profession, whatwould you be doing (and why)?
DB: I would either still be working in the nonprofitsector or as a therapist or social worker.
PU: One of my other huge passions has been acting, and it has been in my universe since longtime ago, when I made my debut in some com-mercials back in college. The first five or six yearsafter moving to the U.S. went to starting a lifeand a business, but I found some space and timein my life three years ago, to channel some focusin to my other passion. I attended New York FilmAcademy’s acting program. Upon graduation, I got
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Kia Ragland Rising Starwinner for Beauty-Fragrance
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January 25th, 2018
Fashion Group International
Rising Star
Luncheon and awards ceremony
Celebrating the accomplishments
of emerging talents in
Accessories
Beauty/Fragrance Corporate
Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur
Fine Jewelry
Home/Interior
Men’s Apparel
Retail
Women’s Apparel
Cipriani 42 Street
11:15 am / Reception and Red Carpet
12:15 pm / Luncheon and Awards
For more information
And to purchase tickets and/or tables
Visit www.fgi.org or call 212-302-5511
Calendar of Events
could create a good presence and contribute tothe fashion industry with a visionary/innovativedesign strategy, a proper brand management andan effective wholesale/retail operation. We couldonly achieve our goals if we can get this trio workwith each other in a fine synchronization. And infive years time, expansion will be our focus, beingsold in multiple department store corners alongwith our own stores. I believe growth is inevitablebecause business is like your own life or like aplant, you either grow or die, there’s nothing inbetween.
KR: As a product developer, we constantly have toincorporate ingredients, shades, textures etc. to accommodate the demands/trends in the ever-changing retail environment. It also dependson the brand’s retailers, such as open-sale,department, or online.
5. What advice would you give to the next class ofRising Star nominees?
DB: Stay patient, persistent, and true to yourunique point of view.
PU: My suggestion to the next class would be thatthere’s nothing they can’t do if they back theirhard work with burning desire and have a limitlessfaith in themselves. In life, everything is 80 percent psychology and 20 percent mechanics. If they have a certain mindset, believing in some-thing badly, wanting something so deeply thatthey are willing to stake everything to achieve it,success will come. One other most importantthing is not ever quitting, being able to see theopportunity that lays within every adversity theyface in life. Winners don’t quit, quitters can’t win.And of course, nobody will come in to their livingroom, pull them off their couch and put them ontop of the world if they do not act on their talentsand passion, working hard enough to achieve theirgoals. They should never allow any negative influence to affect them and if anybody tells them“you can’t,” they should respond: “Wait and see.”Human beings have a limitless power within thatthey can turn any thought in mind/desire in heartin to its physical equivalent, reality.
KR: My advice would be to do the best they canand enjoy the moment. Everything happens sofast that if they don’t take a minute to enjoy it,they’ll miss out on the experience. Also for themto remind themselves that even being nominatedis already a major accomplishment that theyshould be proud of.
in in some short and feature movies as supportingand leading roles. Two of my movies are beingreleased in 2017.
I’m very focused and determined to establishrespected careers in both fashion and acting, as Ibelieve these two careers will only enhance eachother since my brand is my name. Therefore, Idivide my time between New York, Aspen andL.A., creative-directing my brand and working onmy upcoming movie projects.
KR: If I wasn’t a product developer, I would prob-ably be a hair-color specialist. I started in thebeauty industry as a cosmetologist and makeupartist. My strength as a cosmetologist was in haircolor to the point that I was thinking aboutbecoming a hair-color specialist. I’ve alwaysenjoyed being creative and have a passion forcolor theory.
4. Where do you see fashion/beauty/design, andyour role in a changing retail environment five yearsfrom now?
DB: In five years, I think the brands and storesthat last will adopt more unique ways of engagingtheir customers. I think the industry is calling formore personalization and direct interactionsbetween customers and brands through socialmedia and technology. While many customerstoday seek instant gratification, I hope in fiveyears that the market supports a luxury sectorwhere a brand’s commitment to serving andimproving the world adds to its status, rather thanthe pedigree being defined by name alone. I believe time is the ultimate luxury. The oppositeof fast fashion, I hope the fashion industry slowsdown, adopting conscious capitalism as the norm,rather than the exception. I see more brands taking into account triple bottom-line accounting:people, planet, and profit. I hope to be a voiceadvocating for social, environmental, and economic sustainability, and I hope consumerssupport a new economy by demanding quality over quantity. I will be a part of this by creatinglocally, sustainably, and as slowly as possible soas not to produce extra waste.
PU: Our near future goal is to have a retail pres-ence in one of the big department stores as wellas specialty boutiques in different locations in thecountry. I’m very confident that exposure to themasses with our menswear line along with thenew online shop will put my brand in the radar inbetween other retail giants. And I believe we
5 ive questions
On November 10, FGI held its semi-annual ready-to-wear trend review and panel at the Hearst Tower.The event kicked off with an overview of top trendsfrom the season’s shows in New York, London, Milanand Paris, which was curated, produced and narrated by Marylou Luther, creative director of FGI. Key trends highlighted in the presentation includetransparent fabrics, oversized knitwear, a new takeon femininity characterized by details like ruffles, as well as a new duality demonstrated by the prevalence of unisex shows this season.
After the trend overview, a panel of esteemed industryexperts took the stage to share their take on the season. Mickey Boardman, the editorial director ofPaper magazine moderated the discussion, whichincluded Ying Chu of Glamour, Nicole Fischelis ofMacy’s, Marilyn Kirschner of Lookonline and Rickiede Sole of W.
Boardman took the stage in sequins and kicked offthe discussion by asking each panelist to share theirfavorite shows of the season. Kirschner lovedValentino for elevating banal basics like cargo pantsand parkas, while Fischelis loved Marc Jacobs. “I’mtotally in love with who he is and what he does.”She also loved Dries Van Noten, despite not being inattendance at the show. “Even though I wasn’t invit-ed to the show, it doesn’t matter. I still love him,”she said. Meanwhile Céline was a favorite for DeSole, who thought it was “Phoebe at her strongest.”From a beauty perspective, Chu favored Dries VanNoten for the way the embellishment of the clothestied into the use of Swarovski crystals in the hairand eye makeup.
The subject then turned to the experiences offeredby some designers this season and how productionimpacts the way collections are perceived. Chu believes that experiencing shows provides the
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“magic of fashion and that fantasy that we all crave.”From the retail perspective, Fischelis said that “whenyou’re seeing hundreds of shows a season, you’realways hoping for a special moment, and I nevermissed a moment with any of the collections ofMcQueen. It was what a fashion show should be andis not as much anymore, except when you see some-thing like the Thom Browne show.” De Sole agreedthat “there were a lot of spectacles this season.” Forher part, she believes an experience “helps you con-nect emotionally with a collection” and “it helps tellthe story in such a nice way.”
Boardman asked the panel to share moments from thelast round of shows that made them feel optimistic.Kirschner said the use of color made her hopeful.“Fashion is all about putting things on that make youfeel great and you do feel different when you wearcolor,” she said. Fischelis said all of the prints andthe influence of art made her feel optimistic. After allof the nostalgia, Boardman joked that “we’re just abunch of emotional sad sacks up here.”
From there, the group turned their attention to therecent designer shuffles at many major labels.Kirschner shared her thoughts on a notable misstepsaying, “I think the one catastrophe was Lanvin.”Boardman concurred, saying, “No argument here.”Fischelis shared a similar sentiment saying that theindustry misses Alber Elbaz at the helm of Lanvin. Ona more positive note, De Sole and Chu applauded thedebut collection of Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé.
The panel also addressed how the fashion industryhas changed during their years in the business. “Wellwhen I started out, there were no computers,”Kirschner said. “Now what I still can’t get over is theimmediacy,” she continued. De Sole said the “sheervolume” of shows is the biggest change and that shecannot catch her breath between shows. When Chu
first started out covering beauty at shows, she saidthere was no one backstage, but now “it’s this verysort of commercial machine. There are camera crews,there are bloggers,” she said.
Boardman also broached the subject of diversity. Chusaid Miu Miu and Prabal Gurung are both standoutsfor diversity, not only in terms of race but also in ageand body size. De Sole thought Chromat andMcQueen were diverse shows as was as Gucci, partic-ularly in terms of gender fluidity. On the topic of agediversity, Fischelis said she is fascinated by going to stores like Dries Van Noten and seeing differentgenerations shopping the same collection. Boardmannoted that the Michael Kors show was very diverse interms of age this season. “I love nothing more than acelebrity child, but that’s not who buys theseclothes. It’s rich women who are 45,” he added. Thisprompted De Sole to chime in with The Row as anexample of a brand that has always done a good jobof casting a diverse age range in both their showsand look books.
Boardman wrapped up the discussion by asking thegroup for their top takeaways from theSpring/Summer 2018 season. Kirschner said thatwomen are not buying head-to-toe designer, instead“they are buying special pieces.” Fischelis said hertakeaway was freedom and individualism. De Soleliked the designers who were consistent and constantlike Gucci and Calvin Klein. “There’s so much noise,it kind of makes you stick out,” she added.
