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DEFINITIONSFIBRE: Hair-like substance that is the
basis of all yarns and fabric
FABRIC: Material made by joining yarns through weaving, knitting or felting
YARN: Fibres that are twisted together
LET’S START WITH FIBRES!
• There are 2 categories:a) Natural
- 2 plant sources- 2 animal sources
b) Synthetic (or Man-Made)- Hundreds
• When we mix the two categories together, we get something called a BLEND – best of both worlds!
NATURAL FIBRES• We get natural fibres from
– 2 plant sources: cotton and flax; and– 2 animal sources: sheep and silkworms
COTTON• Looks like BC’s flower, the dogwood. It grows
in really hot climates.• When the flower goes to seed, it forms a pod.
This pod ends up popping into a fibre, a cotton boll.
COTTON cont’d
• The plant has very sharp thorns – like a rose• The fibre from the cotton plant is mostly used
to spin into yarn or thread to make a soft, breathable textile
• Most widely used natural-fibre cloth in clothes today
• What are your clothes made of?
FLAX
• grown both for its seeds and fibres
• various parts of the plant have been used to make fabric, dye, paper, medicine, fishing nets, hair gels, and soap
FLAX cont’d
• One of the oldest fibre crops in the world. • Used to make linen since at least ancient
Egyptian times!
SILK WORMS
• Silk is a protein fibre like wool. It comes from the cocoon of the silk worm and requires a great deal of handling and processing, which makes it one of the most expensive fibers.
SYNTHETIC/MAN-MADE
• created by forcing fibre-forming materials through holes (called spinnerets) forming a thread. (Nylon, Polyester)
WHAT ELSE?
• We now know where we get fibre from, but how do the fibres becomes a yarn and then fabric?!
MAKING YARN
• the basic timeline goes like so:
FIBRE YARN FABRIC
• We turn fibre into yarn by pulling and twisting
SPINNING
• Fibres are twisted together to form yarn
• Can be spun by hand using a spindle or distaff
• Can also be spun using a device called a spinning wheel
WEAVING
• Done on a machine called a loom
• Two distinct sets of yarns or threads, Lengthwise and Crosswise, are interlaced with each other to form fabric.
KNITTING
• consists of loops called stitches pulled through each other. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them.
• Yarns are interlooped
FELTING
• Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing fibres. (That’s how we make paper!)
WOVEN CLOTH• Has special edge called the SELVAGE• Selvage is the finished edge that will not come
apart (fray), and is where the crosswise threads turn to start a new row
selvage
GRAIN
• affects the way fabric will hang and drape.
• three types of fabric grain:• Lengthwise grain – parallel to selvage• Crosswise grain – selvage to selvage• Bias grain – does not follow threads of
fabric; has stretch
True BiasThe diagonal edge formed when the fabric is
folded so that lengthwise and crosswise threads are parallel.It is exactly 45 degrees
Fabric
• Bolt of fabric usually right sides together, folded
• Two special edges on Crosswise called Selvage• Can you get it to fray?• Some selvage to selvage has a little bit of give
FABRIC cont’d• Crosswise has some stretch; goes around
your body• Lengthwise has no stretch; goes up and
down your body• Off Grain is when fabric is not lined up
straight• On Grain is when fabric is straight; selvage
to selvage are matching
Now let’s look at your information sheet (Pg. 14)
• Let’s check have we talked about all the terms that are listed on the front
EXPERIMENTL
BB
CC
Observations #1:There is no stretch on the lengthwise and there is some stretch on the crosswise grain. There is a lot of stretch on the bias.
Observations #2:Lengthwise yarns are stronger than the crosswise yarns because it is twisted more.
Draw this diagram on your fabric: Tape it to your sheet
UNSCRAMBLING TERMS
saib: Biasamfesshini: Seam Finishgrewdea: Raw Edgessroceaedswithr: Crosswise Threads greelvs: Selvageaedsselenthgwirth: Lengthwise Threadsseuriatb: True Biasllowaancemess: Seam Allowancegnairfof: Off Grainognrain: On Grain