byJAY KOS F[ood]ash•ion

#3 | February 2010

Fideo is def ined in Spanish as any type of noodle. In Spain, it is commonly used in the kitchen to replace rice and in Mexico, referred to when talk-ing about vermicelli or angel hair pasta and mainly used in soup. In this chilly month of February, I want-ed to make something that would warm us up and what better than a bowl of hot, spicy, Fideo soup? I learned about this dish four years ago in a NYC restaurant called Florencia 13 where the owner was nice enough to take me to the kitchen and show me some of her secrets into the world of f ideo.

The basis of any good soup is the broth and f inding the right chicken is key when making one for our f ideo soup. The green market has many chick-en vendors but, like produce, not all are the same. The chicken I used today was really free range — not the free range that you buy at a larger organic farm. Unfortunately, the laws on calling a chicken free range are sketchy… to say the least. A chicken can be put in a room with thousands of chickens and barely be able to move and as long there is a door somewhere that gives them access to the outside they can call them free range. Also the feed can substantially vary in quality from larger farms to smaller biodynamic farms. Knowing where you get your chickens from is very important!

All photographs by Erica Simone

Florencia 13

Originally from Southern California, Ralph and Rina Camarillo’s f irst visit to NYC was back in 1979 to see the musical “Zoot Suit”, the f irst all Hispanic play on Broadway. What they didn’t know at the time was that this would mark the beginning of a 30-year adven-ture celebrating their culture as Mexican Americans here in the Big Apple. They loved the city so much that they began bringing their children back for frequent visits over the next three decades. At the time, Ralph owned a construction f irm and Rina worked as a f light attendant in California when the idea struck them to help bring the tastes and hospitality of East LA to New York. They broached the idea to their daughter, Gina, son-in-law, Marco, and youngest son Lennard who had also developed a fascination with the Empire City and together they dreamed up what we now know as Florencia 13. With each person adding their talents to the pool(Lennard was involved in real estate, Gina- a high end fashion designer, and Marco- had a business background) they completed the quintet of owners and packed up to start the journey; bringing this aesthetic across the country. As a family, they began personally renovating 185 Sullivan St., and every piece of décor in the restaurant came from California based artists and themes they brought with them.

“The amazing thing about Florencia 13 is the way that everyone feels at home, or rather inspired by their experience here. I mean, half of the artwork on the walls were made by artists who came in, loved their experience and then went home made something and sent it back to the restaurant. People never leave Florencia and think ‘Wow that was good’ instead they think ‘The family gave me something, now what can I give to them’. I stared as a regular, then started helping out when it got busy, and now I work at the restau-rant after I get off of working at my full-time job. There is something to be said for a restaurant inspiring that kind of dedication to an already over-committed New York girl” said Erin of her new found familia.

Florencia 13

Originally from Southern California, Ralph and Rina Camarillo’s f irst visit to NYC was back in 1979 to see the musical “Zoot Suit”, the f irst all Hispanic play on Broadway. What they didn’t know at the time was that this would mark the beginning of a 30-year adven-ture celebrating their culture as Mexican Americans here in the Big Apple. They loved the city so much that they began bringing their children back for frequent visits over the next three decades. At the time, Ralph owned a construction f irm and Rina worked as a f light attendant in California when the idea struck them to help bring the tastes and hospitality of East LA to New York. They broached the idea to their daughter, Gina, son-in-law, Marco, and youngest son Lennard who had also developed a fascination with the Empire City and together they dreamed up what we now know as Florencia 13. With each person adding their talents to the pool(Lennard was involved in real estate, Gina- a high end fashion designer, and Marco- had a business background) they completed the quintet of owners and packed up to start the journey; bringing this aesthetic across the country. As a family, they began personally renovating 185 Sullivan St., and every piece of décor in the restaurant came from California based artists and themes they brought with them.

“The amazing thing about Florencia 13 is the way that everyone feels at home, or rather inspired by their experience here. I mean, half of the artwork on the walls were made by artists who came in, loved their experience and then went home made something and sent it back to the restaurant. People never leave Florencia and think ‘Wow that was good’ instead they think ‘The family gave me something, now what can I give to them’. I stared as a regular, then started helping out when it got busy, and now I work at the restau-rant after I get off of working at my full-time job. There is something to be said for a restaurant inspiring that kind of dedication to an already over-committed New York girl” said Erin of her new found familia.

Now you too can experience the addictive vibe of home-style Chicano dining right here in Greenwich Village. Come in and meet the family…

I know that you f irst started out in Los Angeles. What made you come to New York?

We have traveled to NYC since 1979 (our f irst trip out here). We used to bring our children here when they were young and we were constantly look-ing for a good mexican restaurant and could never f ind one to our liking. Our children, as they grew, suggested that we open one here and bring our ver-sion of mexican food to NYC. With their help we were able to do that and thank God we have been fairly successful.

Is f ideo soup a traditional Mexican soup? Before coming to your restau-rant, I had never seen it before…

It was a dish my mother used to make for us when we were little. Being from a large family, it was a practical dish. I don’t think I make it as good as she did, though.

Does everyone have their own version or is it a pretty straight-forward dish?

Yes, I’ve seen it prepared differently. Most people make it like a thick broth, not as soupy but I prefer to make it as a soup and I also make it with a spicy tomato sauce (which my mother never did).Very good for a cold winter’s night!

What is your favorite dish at Florencia 13?

My favorite dish at Florencia is of course, the f ideo soup but I also like the combo #8 which is the Hard Shell Taco and the Enchilada. That way you get to taste both items which are very popular.

What is the best selling dish at Florencia 13?

We get alot of requests for the Combo #8 and I f ind that the f ish and shrimp soft tacos are also a favorite here at Florencia.