Field Guides Tour Report Machu Picchu & Abra Malaga, Peru Jun 24, 2011 to Jul 2, 2011 Dan Lane A panoramic view of part of the Machu Picchu ruins and the surrounding mountains and river valley (Photo by guide Dan Lane) Machu Picchu is a wondrous place. Even after having visited it more than a dozen times, I still think it's pretty impressive to look at and to think about the planning and effort involved in building it. I don't think it's too much to say that anyone visiting Peru really should see it. Since it was the top winner of the 'Top Three' at the end of the tour, I think you all agree. In addition to the cultural and archaeological interest, however, the natural splendor of the site is awesome. Of course, one of the facets of that splendor is the avifauna. The high Andes of Cusco department are rich in their avian diversity, and we aim to show you much of it (in addition to the ruins of Machu Picchu, that is). Despite the thin oxygen, the diversity of habitats -- from marsh to dry cactus and thorn scrub to puna to humid elfin forest and bamboo-studded high-elevation forest -- allows for a high number of bird species to be found here. Also, the mountains, and the valleys that transect them, create an isolation of habitats that allows for endemism. We enjoyed seeing no fewer than a dozen species that are not found in any other country, and even more that are found only marginally farther outside Peru. Tropical mountains have this character. This tour had many fine memories. Besides the afore-mentioned winner (the ruins), the other sightings that remained foremost on our minds were the trio of Andean Cocks-of-the-Rock who performed for us without seeming the least bit self- conscious, the colorful and small Many-colored Rush-Tyrants who peered out of cattails at us, the large Andean Motmots that allowed close approach, the group of Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans who zoomed over the road, only to appear in trees below, the white 'headlights' of the Maroon-chested (Slaty-backed) Chat-Tyrat who had to shout over the sound of falling water to be heard, the flaming orange chests of the Masked Fruiteaters we enjoyed at our hotel, the smoke-colored Cusco Brush-Finches (along with their flared rufous caps) that approached us from the midst of their mixed-species flock, and (certainly high on the list) the unexpected Royal Cinclodes that was busy brushing aside snow to uncover the insects it needed to fill its stomach. In addition, the grounds of the Pueblo Hotel in Aguas Calientes were nominated among the other experiences, as was the unique opportunity to watch birds hopping in a bewildered state across freshly fallen snow. These memories, and more, are among the reasons to visit the Cusco area. I hope you enjoyed your visit to Peru, and that this experience will draw you back to this lovely country again in the future. Until then, "Baile con Dios!"... oops, I meant "Vaya con Dios!" --Dan We have more information about this itinerary and future departures on our web page for Machu Picchu & Abra Malaga, Peru . Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 1
Transcript
Field Guides Tour Report
Machu Picchu & Abra Malaga, Peru
Jun 24, 2011 to Jul 2, 2011
Dan Lane
A panoramic view of part of the Machu Picchu ruins and the surrounding mountains and river valley (Photo by guide Dan Lane)
Machu Picchu is a wondrous place. Even after having visited it more than a dozen times, I still think it's pretty impressive tolook at and to think about the planning and effort involved in building it. I don't think it's too much to say that anyonevisiting Peru really should see it. Since it was the top winner of the 'Top Three' at the end of the tour, I think you all agree.
In addition to the cultural and archaeological interest, however, the natural splendor of the site is awesome. Of course, oneof the facets of that splendor is the avifauna. The high Andes of Cusco department are rich in their avian diversity, and weaim to show you much of it (in addition to the ruins of Machu Picchu, that is). Despite the thin oxygen, the diversity ofhabitats -- from marsh to dry cactus and thorn scrub to puna to humid elfin forest and bamboo-studded high-elevation forest-- allows for a high number of bird species to be found here. Also, the mountains, and the valleys that transect them, createan isolation of habitats that allows for endemism. We enjoyed seeing no fewer than a dozen species that are not found in anyother country, and even more that are found only marginally farther outside Peru. Tropical mountains have this character.
This tour had many fine memories. Besides the afore-mentioned winner (the ruins), the other sightings that remainedforemost on our minds were the trio of Andean Cocks-of-the-Rock who performed for us without seeming the least bit self-conscious, the colorful and small Many-colored Rush-Tyrants who peered out of cattails at us, the large Andean Motmotsthat allowed close approach, the group of Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans who zoomed over the road, only to appear intrees below, the white 'headlights' of the Maroon-chested (Slaty-backed) Chat-Tyrat who had to shout over the sound offalling water to be heard, the flaming orange chests of the Masked Fruiteaters we enjoyed at our hotel, the smoke-coloredCusco Brush-Finches (along with their flared rufous caps) that approached us from the midst of their mixed-species flock,and (certainly high on the list) the unexpected Royal Cinclodes that was busy brushing aside snow to uncover the insects itneeded to fill its stomach. In addition, the grounds of the Pueblo Hotel in Aguas Calientes were nominated among the otherexperiences, as was the unique opportunity to watch birds hopping in a bewildered state across freshly fallen snow. Thesememories, and more, are among the reasons to visit the Cusco area.
I hope you enjoyed your visit to Peru, and that this experience will draw you back to this lovely country again in the future.Until then, "Baile con Dios!"... oops, I meant "Vaya con Dios!"
--Dan
We have more information about this itinerary and future departures on our web page for Machu Picchu & Abra Malaga,Peru.
Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 1
KEYS FOR THIS LISTOne of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E= endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDSAnatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
(Chloephaga melanoptera) (Merganetta armata) – Always a crowd-pleaser, and all enjoyed it this year! Our highest day-count was
18 on the train ride to Machu Picchu. (Anas cyanoptera)
(Anas bahamensis) – We first had this otherwise coastal species on the tour route last year.Possibly, it is trying to colonize some of the high wetlands.
(Anas georgica) (Anas puna)
(Anas flavirostris) – Formerly part of 'Speckled Teal' but this species has been split intoseveral.
(Oxyura jamaicensis ferruginea) – Declining on Huacarpay Lakes, but we saw many onLaguna Huaypo.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows) (Penelope montagnii) – Fine views were had of this 'chicken.'
Odontophoridae (New World Quail) (Odontophorus balliviani) [*]
Podicipedidae (Grebes) (Rollandia rolland) – Another species that has declined on Huacarpay, but which we salvaged
on Huaypo.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) (Tigrisoma fasciatum) – All right! Often a very difficult species to see in the Machu
Picchu area, we saw at least two individuals, both immatures. (Egretta thula)
(Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills) (Plegadis ridgwayi)
(Theristicus melanopis branickii) – A flock of these attractive high-elevation ibis insnow was a memorable sight!
Cathartidae (New World Vultures) (Vultur gryphus) – After missing them on the train ride, we were pleased to see these majestic birds
coasting along the ridges at Penas.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) – We had several views of this large Buteonine
hawk. The first was of a young bird devouring a Gallinule in the Huacarpay marsh. (Circus cinereus) – Hardly a 'countable look', only a few got a glimpse of a super-distant harrier
across the Huacarpay marshes thanks to David's sharp eyes. (Accipiter striatus ventralis) – A perched bird was a treat in the humid
forest of Abra Malaga. (Buteo magnirostris) – A widespread, but variable, species. Birds in the Urubamba have dark
upperparts with reddish breasts.
ANDEAN GOOSETORRENT DUCK
CINNAMON TEALWHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL
YELLOW-BILLED PINTAILPUNA TEALYELLOW-BILLED TEAL
RUDDY DUCK (ANDEAN)
ANDEAN GUAN
STRIPE-FACED WOOD-QUAIL
WHITE-TUFTED GREBE
FASCIATED TIGER-HERON
SNOWY EGRETBLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON
PUNA IBISBLACK-FACED IBIS (BRANICKII)
ANDEAN CONDOR
BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE
CINEREOUS HARRIER
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (PLAIN-BREASTED)
ROADSIDE HAWK
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(Buteo albigula) – Similar to an immature-plumaged Broad-winged Hawk. (Buteo polyosoma) – Presently contains both 'Red-backed' and 'Puna' hawks. Common and seen
several times during the course of the tour. (Spizaetus isidori) – Cheryl spotted a high-flying adult over Waynapicchu as we
walked to the Mandor Valley.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras) (Phalcoboenus megalopterus) – The raven of the Andes, but more colorful...
(Falco sparverius)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) – If only all rails could be so easy to see!
(Gallinula chloropus) – Recently, the AOU has split the American birds from Old World birdsand returned the name 'Common Gallinue'.
(Fulica ardesiaca)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) (Vanellus resplendens)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) (Tringa flavipes) [b]
(Gallinago andina) – One was spotted by Cheryl at Laguna Huaypo.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) (Chroicocephalus serranus)
(Leucophaeus atricilla) – Two first year birds were a surprise at Huaypo. There are not likely to bemany high-Andean records of this gull! [b]
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) (Columba livia) [I]
(Patagioenas maculosa) (Patagioenas fasciata) (Zenaida meloda) – Seen at the airport in Lima at start of tour.
(Leptotila verreauxi) (Geotrygon frenata) – Most folks got a quick look at this skulker in the gully at the
Pueblo Hotel.
Psittacidae (Parrots) (Aratinga mitrata) – Seen well, including at least one individual that had the plumage of
'Chapman's' Mitred Parakeet... but was almost certainly a first year bird. (Bolborhynchus orbygnesius) – A high-flying flock passed us.
(Pionus tumultuosus tumultuosus) – Great looks in the trees around the hotel at MP.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies) (Uropsalis lyra) – Mostly eyeshine, but it still counts... right?
Apodidae (Swifts) (Streptoprocne rutila)
(Streptoprocne zonaris) (Aeronautes montivagus)
(Aeronautes andecolus)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds) (Colibri thalassinus)
WHITE-THROATED HAWKVARIABLE HAWK
BLACK-AND-CHESTNUT EAGLE
MOUNTAIN CARACARAAMERICAN KESTREL
PLUMBEOUS RAILCOMMON MOORHEN
SLATE-COLORED COOT
ANDEAN LAPWING
LESSER YELLOWLEGSPUNA SNIPE
ANDEAN GULLLAUGHING GULL
ROCK PIGEONSPOT-WINGED PIGEONBAND-TAILED PIGEONWEST PERUVIAN DOVEEARED DOVEBARE-FACED GROUND-DOVEWHITE-TIPPED DOVEWHITE-THROATED QUAIL-DOVE
MITRED PARAKEET
ANDEAN PARAKEETSPECKLE-FACED PARROT
LYRE-TAILED NIGHTJAR
CHESTNUT-COLLARED SWIFTWHITE-COLLARED SWIFTWHITE-TIPPED SWIFTANDEAN SWIFT
GREEN VIOLETEAR
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(Colibri coruscans) (Heliangelus amethysticollis)
(Aglaiocercus kingi) (Lesbia victoriae) – At least a few certain birds at Huacarpay and Ollantatambo, but
there were a few other trainbearers that we couldn't see well enough to ID. (Chalcostigma ruficeps) – A female seen relatively well at Abra Malaga.
(Metallura tyrianthina) (Metallura aeneocauda) – Good looks at this local specialty just at treeline!
(Aglaeactis castelnaudii) – A fine endemic, and seen well at Penas. [E] (Coeligena torquata omissa) – Despite the relative dearth of hummingbirds at MP, we
managed to net one of these before leaving. (Coeligena violifer)
(Pterophanes cyanopterus) – One seen at Penas. (Boissonneaua matthewsii)
(Ocreatus underwoodii) (Amazilia chionogaster) – This and the next species are troublesome at Aguas
Calientes, as they look and sound nearly identical. (Amazilia viridicauda) [E]
Trogonidae (Trogons) (Trogon personatus) – Daniela brought our attention to this lovely bird (a female) above the bear
cages.
Momotidae (Motmots) (Momotus aequatorialis) – Also called 'Highland Motmot'. Seen well at Aguas Calientes.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds) (Malacoptila fulvogularis)
Ramphastidae (Toucans) (Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis) – One of these snuck in, but got spotted anyway.
(Andigena hypoglauca) – A small group of this fine bird responded toplayback and showed for us.
Picidae (Woodpeckers) (Picumnus dorbignyanus) – This cute little nuthatch-like woodpecker gave us a good show at
Aguas Calientes. (Colaptes rubiginosus)
(Colaptes rivolii) – A handsome flicker that we saw well on the humid slope ofAbra Malaga.
(Colaptes rupicola)
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers) (Geositta tenuirostris) – The snow seemed to have caused this, among other high-elevation
birds, to descend into the valley below Abra Malaga. (Cinclodes aricomae) – WOO HOO! What a great bird! Despite the snow, we still managed to
salvage the last day at Abra Malaga with great (albeit cold and wet) views of a fanstastic bird! (Cinclodes albiventris albiventris) – Formerly part of Bar-winged Cinclodes. We saw
oodles of them below the pass foraging in snow. (Phleocryptes melanops) – It took a while, but our last stop in the remnant marsh between
Huaypo and Cusco produced a pair. (Synallaxis azarae)
(Cranioleuca marcapatae) – Great views at Abra Malaga. [E] (Cranioleuca albicapilla) [E]
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(Asthenes urubambensis) – Lucky we decided to stop that second morning, as we gotgreat views at a site that was in the blizzard on the way back across in the afternoon!
(Asthenes virgata) – Fine views of this endemic in the bunchgrass below the pass. [E] (Asthenes wyatti) – This species, more widespread but usually harder to find than the
last, showed well immediately beside the previous. (Asthenes humilis)
(Asthenes helleri) (Asthenes ottonis) – Usually one of the first endemics we find on the tour, this one put
up a fight, but eventually we saw it. [E] (Phacellodomus striaticeps)
(Margarornis squamiger) – An ornate creeper that we enjoyed in the high-elevation flocks. (Xenops rutilans)
Grallariidae (Antpittas) (Grallaria andicolus punensis) – Great views with no effort at Penas.
(Myiozetetes similis) – ... now which is the 'asocial flycatcher'? (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)
(Tyrannus melancholicus)
Cotingidae (Cotingas) (Pipreola pulchra) – Wow, we did alright seeing several of this often-difficult endemic species!
Hooray for us (and them)! [E] (Ampelion rubrocristatus)
(Rupicola peruvianus) – After a few fleeting glimpses, we encountered a group ofmales who were performing some of their lekking rituals at close quarters. That was nice.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies) (Pachyramphus versicolor)
Vireonidae (Vireos) (Vireo leucophrys)
(Vireo olivaceus chivi)
Hirundinidae (Swallows) (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
(Orochelidon flavipes) (Orochelidon murina)
(Tachycineta leucorrhoa) – We saw this species last year in nearly the same spot aswhere we saw it this year. Perhaps it's a fluke, but perhaps the species is a regular wintering one at high elevations on theeast slope of the southern Andes in Peru? At this point we don't know... but that's what makes birding fun! [a]
Troglodytidae (Wrens) (Pheugopedius eisenmanni) – A great bird that is truly a flagship species for the area (and tour!). We enjoyed
fine views of it below the ruins. [E] (Troglodytes aedon)
Cinclidae (Dippers) (Cinclus leucocephalus) – Another bird we try to tally on the train ride from Ollantaytambo to
Machu Picchu. My notes say we only saw three along the way, but we also saw a few more later on. Regardless, I thinkeveryone enjoyed seeing the dippers!
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) (Catharus fuscater) – One was heard from dense vegetation over a creek
on the humid side of Abra Malaga. [*] (Entomodestes leucotis) – Great views, thanks to Cheryl, of this striking thrush!
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(Catamenia inornata) – Another species probably brought out into view (and perhapsdownslope) by the snow.
(Tiaris obscurus) (Diglossa brunneiventris)
(Diglossa sittoides) – Seen at the last minute at our hotel in Ollantaytambo. (Diglossa cyanea) (Sicalis olivascens)
(Arremon brunneinucha) – Basically a towhee that showed quite well aroundAguas Calientes.
(Atlapetes canigenis) – Perhaps one of the most range-restricted birds we encountered... it's onlyknown from the Abra Malaga area and the humid slopes of the upper Urubamba valley. [E]
(Zonotrichia capensis)
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies) (Piranga flava lutea) [*]
(Pheucticus aureoventris) – A lovely relative of our Rose-breasted and Black-headedgrosbeaks back home.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies) (Agelasticus thilius) – Seen at a distance at the marshes we visited.
(Cacicus chrysonotus) – Seen at a bit of a distance, but the yellow rumps and black bodies wereeasy to see.
(Psarocolius atrovirens)
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies) (Euphonia laniirostris)
(Chlorophonia cyanea) – This snazzy number lit up the forest around AguasCalientes.
(Spinus magellanicus) (Spinus atratus) – Only a few folks caught a glimpse of this super-high elevation species as we drove
through the snow at the pass.
MAMMALS (Dasyprocta variegata) – A strange-looking large rodent that shared the gully at the Pueblo Hotel with
quail-doves. (Lagidium peruanum) – This large rabbit-squirrel hybrid allowed us close
approach at MP, until less observant tourists lumbered by. (Nasuella olivacea) – Folks managed to see these Andean versions of the widespread coatimundis. I
managed to miss them both times.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 203 bird taxa and 3 mammal taxa
