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Final Report

Non-Clothing Textiles Business

Case

Identifying cost-effective actions to reduce the environmental impact of non-clothing textiles

Project code: REC601-002 ISBN: [Add reference] Research date: January – March 2015 Date: March 2015

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Document reference (please use this reference when citing WRAP’s work):

[WRAP, 2015, Non-Clothing Textiles Business Case, Prepared by Valpak Ltd]

Document reference: [e.g. WRAP, 2006, Report Name (WRAP Project TYR009-19. Report prepared by…..Banbury, WRAP]

Written by: Valpak Ltd & Ethical Expert Ltd

Front cover photography: [Duvet]

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Non-Clothing Textiles Business Case 1

Executive summary

Introduction This non-clothing textile research sets out to complement previous work undertaken by WRAP1 by developing a business case which identifies the actions to reduce the environmental impacts (carbon, water and waste) of non-clothing household textiles. The study evaluates the arisings of non-clothing textiles using desk-based research methods. It then goes on to use supply chain interviews to assess opportunities for environmental improvements. Market & product characteristics

It is estimated that the total UK market size for non-clothing textiles is 270k tonnes per

annum out of approximately 2.5-2.7 million tonnes of total textiles consumed;

It is estimated that 81% or approximately 220k tonnes of non-clothing textiles form the

household market (the focus of this research) and 19% or 50k tonnes is commercial2;

Polyester (43%) and cotton (35%) are the most commonly used fibre types for non-

clothing textiles;

Dyestuff and chemical suppliers in the sector have in their ranges a wide selection of

products with differing performance properties; and

It is estimated that only 5% of non-clothing textiles is currently collected in the UK for

reuse and recycling, with 20% of those being reused and 80% being downcycled into a

low value end market of wipes and stuffing.

Product details Based on the industry stakeholder interviews conducted for the project, the following findings have been made. Bedding

Composed of mainly cotton and cotton polyester blends with fillings split between

polyester and feathers/ down;

Bedding is a mature market with high levels of resource efficiency based on the consistent

rectangular design and highly automated manufacturing process which has low waste;

The main opportunities for reducing the impacts of bedding lie in;

o The removal of bleaching of the outer fabrics that would reduce the

environmental impact of processing but would require consumer education to

accept off-white covers; and

o The addition of siliconised finishes to synthetic fillings that could double the

life of a duvet or pillow by stopping clumping of fillings.

Bed linen and cushion covers

Cotton is the most common fibre used;

The bed linen market is a mature market with high levels of efficiency in the

manufacturing chain; and

1 Such as that carried out by the SCAP, including http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/valuing-our-clothes

2 WRAP, 2014, Non-Clothing Textiles Hotspots Analysis, MPD007-017

http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/valuing-our-clothes


The main opportunity for improvement is through the increase in the use of pigment

printing, which could reduce resource and costs in the processing chain.

Towels

Cotton is the predominant fibre used in towelling across all price levels;

Retailers already offer consumer advice about the use of fabric conditioners which can

affect the absorbency;

An opportunity to increase product life of coloured towels exists through consumer

education about avoiding detergents containing bleach and optical brightening agents;

and

Fabric thinning was identified as a reason for product discard and could be addressed

through the use of biopolishing to remove surface fibre and reduce fibre shedding in use.

Kitchen linens

Predominantly made of cotton fibre;

An opportunity to increase product life of coloured linens exists through consumer

education about avoiding detergents containing bleach and optical brightening agents;

and

Higher use of pigment printing and biopolishing of kitchen towels could help reduce

processing impacts and extend their life.

Window dressings

Window dressings are mainly composed of cotton and polyester with a range of other

fibres being used in special/ embellished window treatments such as hemp and viscose;

The category of window dressings is the most difficult to assess as a significant proportion

of this sector is made to measure. Whilst ready-made window dressings go through

retailers regular ordering and sales systems, the made to measure market is not captured

in the same way and little information is available;

Pigment printing could be used to reduce the impact of processing in this product

category; and

End of life collection and take back schemes could provide an opportunity to reuse

through the re-styling of made to measure window dressings.

Baseline environmental impacts Data gathered for the project was used in the SCAP Footprint Calculator Tool3, to generate a baseline assessment of the environmental impacts, measured in carbon, water and waste, of the sector by product category. The total footprint results are as follows:

Carbon footprint – 5,752k tonnes CO2e. With hotspots occurring in the fibre production,

processing and use phases and for cotton and polyester;

Water footprint – 1,390M m3. Dominated by the impact of the cotton fibre production

process; and

Waste footprint – 333k tonnes. The majority occurring at the end of life, where only

around 5% of the products are reused or recycled.

3Data relating to washing frequency and recycling/reuse rates were altered in the standard SCAP analysis to reflect this analysis relating to non-clothing rather than clothing.


Project Conclusions

The total UK market size for non-clothing textiles is approximately 270k tonnes per

annum out of approximately 2.5-2.7 million tonnes of total textiles consumed;

A small proportion of this material is currently collected for reuse and recycling, at just

5%;

In principle, non-clothing textiles represent a more attractive recycling opportunity than

clothing due to more consistent colour, larger size items and fewer fastenings and

additions but is currently limited through a lack of markets and financial benefits;

There is a general lack of data on the habits of consumers in terms of the reasons for

discard, washing patterns and life expectancy of products. This inhibits developments

within the industry;

With the exception of towels, products within the sector tend to be long-lasting and less

frequently updated than clothing;

There is a lack of variety of technical skill in the supply chain and a general reluctance to

add chemical finishes through supply chain due to effluent treatment concerns. There is

little understanding of how chemical finishes could help increase product life;

A total of 17 opportunities for improved environmental impacr have been identified

through this research, three of these had the strongest business case for implementation

based on the criteria used within this project. These are:

o Use of anti-bacterials (applicable to all products with the exception of

curtains);

o Use of siliconised fillings (applicable to bedding only);

o Biopolishing (applicable to towels and bed linen);

If all three of these opportunities were implemented there would be potential

environmental savings of up to:

o 1,951kt CO2e or a reduction of 34% of the sector’s footprint;

o 267Mm3 water or a reduction of 19% of the sector’s footprint; and

o 29kt waste or a reduction of 9% of the sector’s footprint.

A further seven opportunities were deemed to have a case for implementation and as

such it is suggested these may also be suitable to take forward, these are:

o Pigment printing (applicable to all products except bedding);

o Right first time application of dyes and finishes (applicable to all products);

o Industry education on available technologies (applicable to all products);

o Use of high fixation dyes (applicable to all products except bedding);

o Use of easy care resin (applicable to bed and kitchen linens);

o Polyester cotton blends (applicable to all cotton products); and

o Alternative cottons (applicable to all cotton products).

In implementing these opportunities, the following observations should be borne in mind:

o Cultural differences around the world can make the implementation of these

actions difficult, for example where there are little or no restrictions on

effluent discharge or treatment;

o Staff turnover in dyehouses can be very high, meaning any process changes

and controls implemented can be lost quickly;

o Anti-bacterials have a potential unknown negative impact on the sewage

system; and

o Regional variations in commodity prices, such as water and energy, can make

some of the opportunities less attractive in some areas.


Project Recommendations The opportunities identified as having a business case to support their implementation are recommended to be taken forward to support the improvement in environmental efficiency of the non-clothing textiles sector. The details of these are provided in the table.


Table ES1 Opportunities recommended for initial uptake4

4 http://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:721017/FULLTEXT01.pdf and http://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A721017&dswid=4240

Carbon

Saving

(kt

CO2e)

Water

Saving

(Mm3)

Waste

Saving

(kt)

Anti-Bacterials 7-14p per metre Reduced washing need by 50% 940 10 0Siliconised Fillings 3p per item Doubles product life expectancy 871 143 25Biopolishing 10p per kg Increase product life expectancy by up to 20% 140 114 4Pigment Printing None identified 35-60% cheaper than conventional printing

Right First Time Training cost (unknown) Improved processing efficiencies by up to 12% 233 8 14Easy Care Resin Unknown Reduces need for ironing by up to 50% 10 0 0High Fixation Dyes None identified Improved processing efficiencies by up to 20% 0 11 13Cotton Polyester Blends Approx. 30% cheaper retail Increase product life expectancy by up to 20% 170 614 0

Alternative CottonsVariable - 0-20% price uplift

potentialIncreased efficiency in fibre production 435-534 159-657

Industry Education Approx. £600 per course Industry educated to select appropriate technology

Work with the Textile Institute or

other to establish a training course

in available technologies

CostOpportunity Main Benefit

No environmental data

Suggested Intervention

Environmental Savings

No environmental dataEducate & engage the supply chain

in the techniques.

Work with other EU Institutes to

learn from their research &

experiences, such as Norden3

http://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A721017&dswid=4240


As the research has concluded that cultural and regional differences may influence the uptake of these technologies, it is recommended that experts are required to support the implementation of these opportunities, which would mean an initial financial investment, however over time the resulting benefits should offer a good return. Additional recommendations generated through this research project are:

Additional research into consumer habits is required to understand washing patterns,

reasons for and methods of discard and product lifetimes; and

Further research into fibre to fibre recycling technology and development of a reverse

value chain could be of benefit in non-clothing textiles. This is based on the conclusion

that non-clothing textiles represent a more attractive recycling opportunity than clothing

for recycling due to more consistent colour, larger size items and fewer fastenings and

additions.


Contents

1.0 Background .................................................................................................. 9 2.0 Scope ............................................................................................................ 9 3.0 Market characteristics .................................................................................. 9

3.1 Introduction .............................................................................................. 9 3.2 Market value .............................................................................................. 9 3.3 Market quantity........................................................................................ 10 3.4 Consumer (household) and non-consumer (commercial) split ...................... 10

4.0 Product characteristics ............................................................................... 10 4.1 Material (fibre) compositions ..................................................................... 10

5.0 Chemical finishes & treatments .................................................................. 11 6.0 End of Life ................................................................................................... 14

6.1 Collection ................................................................................................ 14 6.2 Sortation ................................................................................................. 14 6.3 Down Cycling ........................................................................................... 14 6.4 Reuse ..................................................................................................... 14

7.0 Product Details ........................................................................................... 14 7.1 Bedding................................................................................................... 15 7.2 Bed linen & cushion covers ....................................................................... 15 7.3 Towels .................................................................................................... 16 7.4 Kitchen linens .......................................................................................... 16 7.5 Window dressings .................................................................................... 17

8.0 Environmental impacts across the supply chain ......................................... 17 8.1 Introduction ............................................................................................ 17 8.2 Baseline footprint results and impacts ........................................................ 17

9.0 Business case for improved resource efficiency ......................................... 19 9.1 Environmental assessment ........................................................................ 19 9.2 Business case .......................................................................................... 22

10.0 Conclusions & recommendations ................................................................ 27 10.1 Conclusions ............................................................................................. 27 10.2 Recommendations .................................................................................... 28

Appendix 1 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing ........................................................... 31 Appendix 2 Interview Responses ......................................................................... 35 Figures

Figure 1 Non-clothing textile categories by volume ........................................................ 10 Figure 2 Overall non-clothing textiles fibre composition .................................................. 11 Figure 3 Impacts of implementing opportunities for improvement ................................... 24 Tables Table ES1 Opportunities recommended for initial uptake .................................................. 5 Table 1 Fibre Compositions of Five Key Product Categories ............................................. 11 Table 2 Summary of dyes, techniques and finishes ........................................................ 13 Table 3 Total tonnage and carbon, water and waste footprint per product category .......... 18 Table 4 Impacts summary of non-clothing textiles ......................................................... 18 Table 5 Environmental assessment of opportunities for improvement .............................. 20 Table 6 Opportunities recommended for initial uptake .................................................... 29


Glossary

B2B - Business to business B2C - Business to consumer BCI - Better Cotton Initiative CmiA - Cotton made in Africa CMT - Cut make trim CO2e - Carbon dioxide equivalents k - thousand M - million Organic- agricultural techniques using soil and water management strategies that do not use synthetic fertilisers or pesticides. RFT – Right first time SCAP – Sustainable Clothing Action Plan t - tonnes

Acknowledgements

We would like to acknowledge and thank the various industry professionals that have contributed and assisted Valpak, Ethical Expert and WRAP to complete this research, including Archroma, Debenhams, Dystar, Huntsman, Ikea, John Lewis, L M Barry, Marks & Spencer, Novozymes, Oxfam, Ruia Group, Trendsetter Home Furnishing Ltd and the Salvation Army.


1.0 Background Textiles have been identified as ‘priority products’ for UK Government567, due to the environmental impact across their lifecycle. As a result, the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) Commitment8 works with leading clothing organisations to reduce the environmental footprint of clothing. WRAP’s ‘Valuing our Clothes’ report outlines the hotspots and savings potential for clothing9. This non-clothing textile research sets out to complement this work by developing a business case which identifies the actions to reduce the environmental and financial impacts of non-clothing household textiles. The study initially evaluates the arisings of non-clothing textiles using desk-based research methods. It then goes on to use supply chain interviews, covering textile and chemical manufacturers, retailers and end of life organisations to assess opportunities for environmental improvements. The environmental and other consequences of these opportunities are then measured to develop a business case for improvement. 2.0 Scope The scope of the project covers household/consumer non-clothing textiles only and is limited to the following product types:

Bathroom textiles - towels, shower curtains and bath mats;

Bed linens - sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, bedspreads, mattress covers and valances;

Bedding – duvets and pillows;

Cushions and covers - cushion covers, loose covers, throws and other similar;

Kitchen linens – tea towels;

Table linens - tablecloths, napkins and fabric placemats; and

Window dressings - curtains, net curtains and window blinds.

3.0 Market characteristics 3.1 Introduction Within this section, estimations on market share by value and volume of sales for the non-clothing textiles sector are provided. 3.2 Market value The total UK market value of non-clothing textiles in 2013 was £3.44 billion10. Whilst this represents an annual growth of 0.7% from 2012, overall since 2009 this sector has decreased in value by 2.8%. The non-clothing textiles market in the UK is dominated by imports: 82%11 by volume is imported. The main countries exporting to the UK are: China (31%), Pakistan (27%) and Bangladesh (14%)12.

5 The Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) Government review of waste policy in England 2011 6 Scotland’s Zero Waste Plan – Areas of Action. Available from www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/06/08092645/4www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/06/08092645/4 . Accessed 27/01/2015 7 Welsh Assembly Government (2010) Towards Zero Waste – One Wales: One Planet 8 http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/sustainable-clothing-action-plan-1 9 http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/valuing-our-clothes 10 Keynote, 2014, Market Report 2014 Home Furnishings 11 ComTrade UN Report 12 CBI Europe Market Report 2012: The EU Market For Bed Linen

http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/06/08092645/4www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/06/08092645/4

http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/sustainable-clothing-action-plan-1

http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/valuing-our-clothes


The major retailers in the UK of non-clothing textiles are: Debenhams, Dunelm, House of Fraser, IKEA, John Lewis, Laura Ashley, Marks & Spencer, Matalan and Tesco13. Significant UK manufacturers are: Calderia (cushions), Hilary Blinds (window dressings), Walker Greenbank PLC (general home furnishings) and Trendsetter Home Furnishing Ltd (duvets).14 3.3 Market quantity Previous studies15 identify approximately 2.5-2.7 million tonnes of textiles consumed within the UK annually, including clothing, footwear, carpets, mattresses and non-clothing textiles. It is estimated that the total UK market size by weight for non-clothing textiles included within the scope of this project in the UK is 270k tonnes per annum16 (including both consumer (household) and non-consumer (commercial) items. By volume, bedding and bed linen related items also make up the highest proportion at approximately 43% and 24% respectively, followed by items such as curtains and blinds, comprising 19% of the total weight16.

Figure 1 Non-clothing textile categories by volume 3.4 Consumer (household) and non-consumer (commercial) split

The focus of this project is on consumer (household) non-clothing textiles, it is therefore

necessary to estimate the split between household and commercial (including public sector)

consumption of non-clothing textiles. Based on previous work undertaken by the project

team for WRAP17, it is estimated that 81% or approximately 220k tonnes of non-clothing

textiles form the household market and 19% or 50k tonnes is commercial.

4.0 Product characteristics 4.1 Material (fibre) compositions The overall material (fibre) composition18 is presented in the pie chart below. It highlights that the non-clothing textiles sector is dominated by polyester (43%) and cotton (35%).

13 Keynote, 2014, Market Report 2014 Home Furnishings 14 Keynote, 2014, Market Report 2014 Home Furnishings 15 WRAP, 2012, Textile Flow and Market Development Opportunities 16 Based on 2012 data from the EuroStat database http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/newxtweb/ 17 WRAP, 2014, Non-Clothing Textiles Hotspots Analysis, MPD007-017 18 BIO Intelligence, 2009, Reducing the environmental impact of clothes cleaning, Eurostat data and Valpak’s EPIC database for sales and product information. With amendments to the Bedding category to increase the proportion of cotton bedding, based on the results of stakeholder interviews undertaken for this project.

43%

24%

19%

12%

2%

Bedding/Duvets

Bed Linens &Cushions/Covers

Window Dressings

Towels

Kitchen & Table Linens

http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/newxtweb/


Figure 2 Overall non-clothing textiles fibre composition19 The fibre composition of the five main product categories is summarised in the table below. In line with the overall results, cotton and/or polyester are the largest components in each product category. However bed linens are made of a considerable proportion of viscose (36%).

Table 1 Fibre Compositions of Five Key Product Categories 5.0 Chemical finishes & treatments All dyes and chemicals are subject to tightly controlled safety standards during manufacturing, application and customer end use. The majority of non-clothing products have long life cycles and are not subject to the same fashion demands as clothing. It is a sophisticated industry, and providing the correct specifications are agreed, the products can last for a very long time, with the only exception of towels which have a shorter life span as they can lose fibre and become very thin. Dyeing and printing add colour to provide an aesthetic appeal adding value and to meet the changing demands of fashion. Fabric finishing adds properties to enhance the physical performance of the articles in use, for example, dimensional stability, easy care, absorbance etc. normally the brand/retailer specifies the performance standards required based on end use and their experience of customers’ expectations of life cycle, such as offering better value than competitors. The dyestuff and chemical suppliers have in their product ranges a wide selection of products with differing performance properties. For example, medium to high wash temperatures and light fastness. The choice of dyestuff and finish chemicals will reflect the required performance based on end use. Usually higher performing products cost more

19 ‘other’ includes PVC, feathers, flax and polypropylene

43%

35%

10%

8%4%

Polyester

Cotton

Viscose

Polyamide

Polyurethane

Other

Product Category Cotton Viscose Polyester PolyurethanePolypropylene Polyamide PVC Feathers

Bedding/Duvets 17% 0% 58% 10% 0% 13% 2%

Bed Linens & Cushions/Covers 37% 36% 24% 2%

Towels 93% 4% 2%

Kitchen & Table Linens 49% 14% 18% 2% 13% 4%

Window Dressings 34% 0% 58% 7%


initially but can prove better value in the longer term when durability is the main requirement. Consumers main expectations include that the product will retain its colour integrity after multiple washes, particularly in the case of bedding and towels. The dyes and pigments used have to be selected to withstand the rigours of modern day washing detergents which are designed to clean at lower temperature and therefore contain aggressive chemicals such as peroxy bleaches. An overview of dyes, dyeing techniques and finishes applicable to the products examined within this report is provided in the following table.


Table 2 Summary of dyes, techniques and finishes20

20 Full definitions of the dye classes, processing and finishes are provided in Appendix 1 of this report.

Product end use Fibre type Dyes used Colour woven -

plain/printed

Method of

dyeing/printing

Finishes Comments

Bedding & bed linen Polyester/cellulosic

blends and 100%

cotton

Disperse, reactive,

vats or pigments

Dyed continuous/

batch or yarn dyes

Continuous

thermasol, cold pad

batch, rotary or flat

screen printed

Non-iron, easy care

using polymer

resins, stain release

or anti-bacterial

- Resin finshes lowers fibre strength properties of cellulosics.

- Pigment printing cost effective, low energy process.

- Use of anti-bacterials could minimise washing periods.

- Use of higher fixation reactive dyes for cellulosics lowers

the amount of water needed to wash off unfixed dyes.

Bathroom towels Mainly 100% cotton Reactive or vats Mainly plain dye

and colour woven

jacquard designs

Batch wise & semi

continuous

Hydrophillic

softeners. Usually

limited durability

- Most retailers recommend 50 degree wash for hygiene.

- They do not recommend the use of conditioners by

consumers, as this reduces absorbancy.

Bath matts 100% cotton,

acrylic, polyester,

most have latex

backing

Reactive, vats and

basic dyes for

acrylic

Plain dyed or tufted

design

Batch dyed or fibre

dyed

Hydrophillic

softeners. Usually

limited durability

Cushions & covers Variety of fibre

blends but

predominantly

cotton

Vats, reactives and

pigment print.

Plain and printed

colour woven

Batch dyed,

continuous print

and yarn dyed

Variety dependant

on fibre

Kitchen and table

linens

100% cotton and

cellulosic blends

Reactive and vats Mainly plain dye

and colour woven

jacquard designs

Batch wise, semi

continuous and

yarn dyed

Hydrophillic

softeners. Usually

limited durability

- Most retailers recommend 50 degree wash for hygeine.

- They do not recommend the use of conditioners by

consumers, as this reduces absorbancy.

Window dressings 100% cotton &

cotton polyester

blends

Vats, reactives and

pigment print.

Plain and printed Batch dyed and

continuous print

Resin finish to

control shrinkage

Resin finish must be carefully selected as they can reduce

light fastness. Products cleaned infrequently.


6.0 End of Life Previous studies21 have estimated that approximately 781kt or 29% of total textiles are collected for reuse or recycling, with the uncollected portion mostly being sent to incineration for energy recovery, with a small proportion to landfill. Non-clothing textiles are discarded at the point of failure either because of wear or excessive staining22. However no UK-level data is available as most non-clothing textiles are collected and sold in mixed bundles to low value end markets. Estimates of collection rates have been made based on stakeholder interviews. 6.1 Collection Only approximately 5%23 of non-clothing textiles are collected for re-use and down cycling24. These are mainly collected mixed with clothing and footwear. Currently no collections exist only for non-clothing household textiles due to no or low commercial end market value. Textile bank collection make up the largest quantity of non-clothing household textiles collected25. However, due to the size of non-clothing textiles and relatively few ‘add-ons’ e.g. buttons, zips etc. there is a higher potential for recycling of these items however lack of fibre to fibre recycling technology and a reverse value chain infrastructure limit the development of this market. 6.2 Sortation A report by WRAP, Technologies for sorting end of life textiles, May 2014, offers a technical and economic evaluation of the sortation options applicable to clothing and household textiles, however based on the current market for textiles (including both clothing and non-clothing), the cost of machinery currently outweighs the benefits of using them therefore the sortation process is predominantly a manual one. In order to see automated sortation as a commercially attractive option, economies of scale would be required and therefore one recycler would probably need to act as a hub across Europe. 6.3 Downcycling From the 5% of non-clothing textiles collected, approximately 80% of these are downcycled for stuffing and wipers. Cotton items (bed linen, tablecloths towelling etc.) will be cut down into wipers (towels are especially good for wipers).This is a low value end market and will limit an increase in the collection rate. 6.4 Reuse From interviews with reuse organisations approximately 20% of non-clothing textiles collected are subsequently reused. The market for reuse is overseas in Pakistan, Sub Saharan Africa and Eastern Europe. 7.0 Product Details This section uses information gathered through stakeholder interviews26 to provide, for each product category, an overview of the product characteristics relating to resource efficiency

21 WRAP, 2014, Evaluation of End Markets for Textile Rag and Fibre within the UK 22 Stakeholder interviews 23 Estimated based on stakeholder interviews 24 Current fibre recycling technology is really better termed downcycling as the mechanical process breaks down fibres making them lower quality and value than virgin material. 25 Information gathered from stakeholder’s interviews. 26 Full interview responses are provided in Appendix 2 of this report


and identifies areas of potential environmental improvement. These opportunities are then discussed in detail later in the report. 7.1 Bedding Bedding (duvets and pillows) was found to be mainly cotton and cotton polyester blends, with fillings split between polyester and feathers/down. The choice between different fibre and filling types was found to be price driven rather than necessarily by product performance. Bedding is a mature market with high levels of resource efficiency based on the product being consistent in design that is highly automated and a rectangular shape meaning little manufacturing waste. The main opportunities for improvements lie in new combinations of fibres and fillings to give better thermal performance or in finishing of the outer fabric and fillings. Duvets in the UK are sold by tog rating which allows for optimum use of fibres to give thermal performance over weight of fillings; however the rest of the EU works on a grams per square metre basis encouraging higher filling weights which may not be as resource efficient. Removal of bleaching of the outer fabrics would reduce the environmental impact of processing but would require consumer education to accept off-white covers. The addition of siliconised finishes to synthetic fillings could double the life of a duvet or pillow by stopping clumping of fillings. Lack of information about consumer use, and discard, of bedding limits developments in the industry. Some items carry 5 or 10 year guarantees already whilst some are expected to be discarded within 6-12 months. However no consumer behaviour data exists to demonstrate whether these guarantees and expectations are actually being achieved. Bedding is not targeted in collections for reuse/recycling since it is considered low grade in quality with no end market. The bulk nature of bedding also makes it an undesirable product for recycling as it can easily fill up a textile bank leaving no room for more valuable clothing donations. However it will be collected mixed with other, high grade material. 7.2 Bed linen & cushion covers Cotton is by far the most common fibre used in bed linen and cushions with cotton polyester blends close behind. Decorative cushions can use a selection of different fibres in the base fabric and decorative embellishments. A variety of dyeing and printing techniques are in use on bed linen. An increase in the use of pigment printing27 and high fixation dyes could reduce resource and cost in the processing chain. The bed linen market is a mature market with high levels of efficiency in the manufacturing chain. One respondent to the project questionnaire noted that they reuse off-cuts to make cushion covers to minimise waste. As with bedding, little information is available about consumer habits but several respondents noted that consumer education about the use of detergents that do not contain

27 As described in Appendix 1 of this report.


bleach or optical brightening agents on coloured items could extend the useful life of bed linen and cushion covers. It could also reduce returns and points of product failure where fading was mentioned. Fading along with mechanical failure of seams/ fastenings, are the major reasons for returns. Bed linen will be collected alongside household clothing textiles and sent for reuse to the key overseas markets of Pakistan and Eastern Europe. 7.3 Towels Other than a few additional embellishments, cotton is the predominant fibre used in towelling across all price levels. As coloured towels are common, consumer education about the use of bleach and optical brightening agents and detergents that do not contain these could extend the useful life of towels. Retailers already offer consumer advice about the use of fabric conditioners which can affect the absorbency of towelling via labels and websites. Discard of towels due to product failure i.e. fabric thinning was identified by questionnaire respondents as an issue and could be addressed through the use of vortex spinning and enzyme treatments (biopolishing) to remove surface fibre and reduce fibre shedding in use. This is the one product area where product failure was cited as a reason for consumer discard rather than refreshing or redecorating. According to a most recent Keynote report28 the towels subsector is beginning to see an increase in demand for quality over value, which could see reduced discard due to product failure. Little consumer behaviour information is available for the domestic market but a B2B supplier noted that towels without the above treatments are expected to last up to 100 washes in domestic machines and slightly less at industrial launderers. Towels, if they are of good enough quality, will be sent to the key overseas markets for reuse at the end of life if collected. The lower quality items will stay in the UK and be re-worked into wipes e.g. for polishing cars. 7.4 Kitchen linens Kitchen linens for the consumer market were found to be predominantly made of cotton fibre with industrial kitchen linens being polyester for perceived higher durability. Kitchen linens can contain embellishment and high levels of colour. Consumer education about the use of detergents that do not contain bleach or optical brightening agents on coloured items could help extend the useful life of these items. Little information about consumer behaviour is available and the retailers spoken to assume that items are refreshed rather than discarded at point of failure but this could not be verified. Higher use of pigment printing and enzyme treatments of tea towels could help reduce processing impacts and extend the life of kitchen linens. For reuse organisations these products are not target materials, but will be accepted with other target materials and sent for reuse.

28 Home Furnishings Market Report 2014


7.5 Window dressings Window dressings are mainly composed of cotton and polyester with a range of other fibres being used in special/ embellished window treatments such as hemp and viscose. Consumer cleaning type (washing or dry cleaning) and frequency are unclear with little data available. Most returns are for incorrect size or wrong selection with little evidence of product failure in this category. Redecorating or refreshing are the most cited reason for product replacement/ discard. The category of window dressings is the largest of the household non-clothing textiles sector in terms of value29 but is the most difficult to assess as a significant proportion of this sector is made to measure. Whilst ready-made window dressings go through retailers regular ordering and sales systems, the made to measure market is not captured in the same way and little information is available. Made to measure window dressings will contain the same processing chain as ready-made but with the final CMT (cut make trim) stage being completed in the UK therefore providing some, although limited, employment opportunities in the UK. CMT is conducted in small local units and is hard to quantify. If collection and take-back schemes by retailers could be established this may also provide an opportunity for the reuse and re-styling of made to measure window dressings. Pigment printing could be used to reduce the impact of processing in this product category . At present of those collected for reuse/recycling some heavy curtains will be sent to reuse if the quality is very good. Net curtains will mainly be sent to Africa, where holes will be stitched up and they will be used as mosquito nets. Some very poor quality items will be sent to incineration. 8.0 Environmental impacts across the supply chain 8.1 Introduction Data gathered and presented in section 3 of this report was used in the SCAP Footprint Calculator Tool30, to generate a baseline assessment of the environmental impacts, measured in carbon, water and waste, of the sector by product category. The results of this analysis are shown below.

8.2 Baseline footprint results and impacts The table shows the carbon, water and waste footprint of non-clothing textiles by product category. The total footprint results are as follows:

Carbon footprint – 5,752k tonnes CO2e;

Water footprint – 1,390M m3;and

Waste footprint – 333k tonnes.

29 Home Furnishings Market Report 2014, Keynote 30Data relating to washing frequency and recycling/reuse rates were altered in the standard SCAP analysis to reflect this analysis relating to non-clothing rather than clothing.


Table 3 Total tonnage and carbon, water and waste footprint per product category The environmental hotspots for the products assessed were identified using the SCAP tool, these are summarised below.

Table 4 Impacts summary of non-clothing textiles Carbon footprint Impacts occur in the fibre production, processing and use phases. The use phase, mostly washing, appeared as a hotspot for towels, bed linen and table linen due a higher washing frequency compared to bedding and curtains, which are considered to be rarely washed. Opportunities to reduce washing frequency and the impact of this process are therefore important for towels, bed linen and table linen. For bedding and window dressings, opportunities to reduce the impacts at the fibre production and processing are more significant. Cotton (bed linen, table linen and bathroom textiles) and polyester (bedding and window dressings) represent the fibres contributing the most to the sector’s carbon footprint. This is based on these fibres representing 43% (polyester) and 35% (cotton) of the tonnage contributing to non-clothing textiles. Water footprint The water footprint is dominated by the impact of the cotton fibre production process for all products included within the assessment, due to its water intensive nature. Whilst this process does not occur in the UK, alternative cottons are available on the market that are recognised as more water (and carbon) efficient; such as those included in the SCAP Footprint calculator (BCI, CmiA and Organic), which represent an opportunity to reduce the water footprint of the sector. Waste footprint The majority (65%) of the sector’s waste impacts occur at the end of life, where only around 5% of the products are reused or recycled (as discussed in section 6 of this report). However, a significant proportion (35%) of the footprint still originates from the manufacturing processes. This is contradictory to the project primary research, where it was highlighted that these processes are efficient with minimal waste generation. Whilst

Product categoryTonnage sold

in the UK (kt)

Carbon footprint

(ktCO2e)

Water footprint

(Mm3)

Waste

footprint (kt)

Bedding 94 2100 288 144

Bed linen 52 1830 425 80

Kitchen & table linens 4 126 33 5

Bathroom textiles 26 867 403 40

Window dressings 43 829 241 64

Total 218 5752 1,390 333

Product category Carbon footprint Water footprint Waste footprint

Fibre production (42%) & processing (41%) Fibre production (94%) End of life (65%)

Polyester (62%) Cotton (91%) Polyester (58%)

Use (52%) Fibre production (92%) End of life (65%)

Cotton (36%) Cotton (74%) Cotton (37%)





Fibre production (48%) & processing (47%) Fibre production (95%) End of life (65%)

Polyester (63%) Cotton (99%) Polyester (58%)

Bedding

Bed linen

Kitchen & table linens

Bathroom textiles

Window dressings


increasing reuse and recycling within the sector would result in improved resource efficiency, there are many challenges to be overcome in order to achieve this, such as market creation, product quality and transport costs.

9.0 Business case for improved resource efficiency Throughout section 7 of this report the following opportunities to improve the resource efficiency of the non-clothing textiles sector have been identified;

Pigment printing;

Use of siliconised fillings in bedding;

Biopolishing;

Removal of bleaching of the outer fabrics to produce off-white bedding;

Consumer education about avoiding detergents containing bleach and optical brightening

agents;

Consumer advice about the use of fabric conditioners which can affect the absorbency of

towelling;

Industry education on available technologies31;

Use of high fixation dyes; and

Increase in recycling and reuse.

In addition to these specific opportunities identified by interviewees, some additional opportunities were also identified by the project team and have been added to the list above. These are:

Use of anti-bacterials;

Right first time application of dyes and finishes;

Use of organic cotton;

Use of BCI cotton;

Use of CmiA cotton;

Use of recycled polyester;

Use of cotton/polyester blends; and

Use of easy care resin.

By combining these two lists a total of 17 opportunities to improve the resource efficiency of the non-clothing textiles sector have been identified. In order to prioritise these opportunities for action, each has been assessed in order to identify its potential environmental benefit, cost implications and ease of implementation. 9.1 Environmental assessment Where data was available, each of the opportunities has been assessed using the SCAP Footprint Calculator Tool to provide carbon, water and waste benefits of implementation. A summary of these results is provided in the table.

31 Identified generally throughout the interview process


Table 5 Environmental assessment of opportunities for improvement

Carbon Saving

(kt CO2e)

Water Saving

(Mm3)

Waste

Saving (kt)

Anti-bacterialsAll except

curtains

Minimises washing frequency by

approximately 50%, therefore

increased longevity*

940 10

Siliconised fillings BeddingDoubles life expectancy of product

due to filling movement*871 143 25

Use of organic cottonAll cotton

products

Increased efficiency in fibre

production****534 657

Use of CmiA cottonAll cotton

products



Use of BCI cottonAll cotton

products



Use of recycled polyesterAll polyester

productsUse of recycled fibre**** 435 0 30

Right first time application of dyes

and finishesAll

12% increase in processing

efficiency**233 8 14

High fixation dyesAll except

bedding

Minimise colour loss in washing,

savings in processing by 20%*215 11 13

Cotton and polyester blendsAll cotton

products

Looks newer for longer and minimises

ironing. Extends life by approximately

20%*

170 614

BiopolishingCotton towels

and bed linen

Reduce need for harsh chemicals &

removal of fibre pills at end of

process to improve washing and

increase longevity by 20% ***

140 114 4

Avoid using washing detergents

containing bleachTowels

Minimise colour loss in washing.

Extends life by approximately 20%*68 67 2

Reduced use of conditioners TowelsMinimise colour loss in washing.

Extends life by approximately 10%*37 36 1

Easy care resinBed and kitchen

linen

Reduced ironing by approximately

50%*10

Acceptance of off-white bedding -

remove use of optical brightening

agents

BeddingSaving based on bleach and process

removal*

Industry education in available

technologiesAll

Industry awareness to select

appropriate technology*

Pigment printingAll except

beddingLow energy process*

Increased collection for recycling/re-

useAll

Reduction in waste and increase

availability of recycled fibres*

* Based on project team knowledge and interview responses

** Based on project team knowledge & Eco-efficiency of Indian Dyehouses (Defra 2007)

*** SCAP Footprint Calculator Improvement Action – Novozymes Bio-Polishing (ERM 2014)

**** Based on Improvement Actions option available in SCAP tool

No environmental data available as strong

market limitations

Opportunity Applicability Process ImpactEnvironmental Savings

No environmental data available

Linked to processes used as a result of

training

No environmental data available


The table indicates that in terms of environmental savings to be made, the largest opportunities for the sector are likely to be from use of anti-bacterials, siliconised fillings in bedding and alternative cottons. Each of these is now considered in more detail. Anti-bacterials are now used extensively on textile clothing to control odour caused by the body breaking down sweat bacteria. They are anticipated to result in a reduction in consumer washing by around 50%32 and can be used on any product within the non-clothing sector, with the exception of curtains based on a lack of need. The baseline footprint for the sector, described in section 8 of this report, indicates that washing is a carbon footprint hotspot for bed linen, kitchen and table linens and towels, and as such anti-bacterial finishes applied to these products represents the greatest potential savings. It is worth noting that the full impacts of using anti-bacterial finishes within the sewage system are not fully understood and as such there could be impacts in terms of the removal of useful bacteria33. Siliconised fillings used for bedding (duvets and pillows) are believed to offer an extension in product life of 100%34 as it allows the filling to move around easily and reducing the formation of ‘clumps’, which can result in product replacement. This is based on the premise that a better quality, longer-lasting product has a lower environmental impact than producing a larger number of lower quality products. Doubling the life expectancy of the product is assumed to result in the need for half as much bedding compared to the baseline scenario modelled for the project. This therefore results in significant carbon, water and waste savings. The use of organic cotton and cotton certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) all offer more efficient fibre productions than conventional cotton. BCI exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future. BCI aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. BCI has four specific aims: 1) Reduce the environmental impact of cotton production; 2) Improve livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas; 3) Improve commitment to and flow of Better Cotton throughout supply chain; and 4) Ensure the credibility and sustainability of the Better Cotton Initiative. CmiA is a production system based on Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), defined as better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future. BCI aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable Organic farming is based on agro-ecological principles, all synthetic pesticides and fertilisers are banned. Organic farming uses adapted varieties, local inputs, green manures/ composts and crop rotation. Other opportunities that have the potential to offer significant environmental savings include right first time application of dyes and finishes, high fixation dyes and biopolishing. Each of these is described below. Right first time applications of finishes and dyes offers an opportunity for environmental efficiencies35 by reducing the need to apply dyes and finishes more than once in order to 32 Based on interview responses and knowledge of the project team 33 Based on the knowledge of the project team 34 Based on interview responses 35 It should be noted that the project team consider the water savings attributed to reductions modelled for right first time applications to be potentially higher than resulting from the SCAP model. This is because this opportunity would considerably reduce the number of dye baths and washing off processes.


produce the desired colour or enhancement. It is estimated that there is a potential to improve the efficiency of the processing stage of non-clothing textile’s production by around 12%36. Improving right first time is an opportunity for resource efficiency, however cultural difficulties in adopting new technology can make this difficult to implement, especially where water and electricity costs may be heavily subsidised and there are little or no restrictions on effluent discharge or treatment. There is need involve experts to capture real dye house data to analyse process times and then to identify the opportunities available. Cotton and other natural fabrics based on cellulose can be improved at the finishing stage by an enzymatic treatment known as biopolishing. This results in a fabric that is smoother in appearance. The enzymes hydrolyse the microfibrils (hairs or fuzz) protruding from the surface. A ball of fuzz is called a ‘pill’ and these pills can present a serious quality problem, since they result in an unattractive worn fabric appearance. After biopolishing, fabric shows a much lower pilling tendency37. The benefit of removing fuzz is that it results in a better, softer and smoother fabric that will have a longer useable life by approximately 20%38. It is therefore assumed that this offers a lower environmental impact than producing a larger number of lower quality products, resulting in a carbon, water and waste saving. High fixation dyes offer a higher strength reactive dye that are around 20% stronger and as such less dye is required. Dye fixation is in the order of 90-95% compared to a reactive dye of 60-70%, resulting in less dyestuff to wash off. With standard dyes up to six baths will be used to wash off excess dyestuff, with high fixation dyes this can be reduced to two. The result is considerably less water and energy usage in dyeing. It should be noted that the main obstacles to the use of high fixation dyes are the cheap or heavily subsidised water and electricity costs in producing countries meaning there is little incentive to change. 9.2 Business case In order to produce recommendations as to which of the 17 opportunities presented in the report could be taken forward to make environmental efficiency gains, other factors relating to their cost and ease/time of implementation were also considered. Each of the opportunities has been assigned a low, medium or high rank for cost, implementation and environment and scored accordingly, based on the following methodology39:

Cost – low represents a financial benefit or minimal investment, medium is a moderate

investment and high is a large investment;

Time/Implementation – low represents a quick win or easy to implement, medium is more

time-consuming or may involve public engagement and high is difficult to implement or

will take a long time;

Environment – low represents a low environmental footprint or a large environmental

saving potential (such as a carbon saving of 200kt CO2e or over), medium is a mid-range

environmental benefit (such as a carbon saving of 86k to 199kt CO2e) and high is a large

footprint or low environmental benefit (such as a carbon saving of less than 86kt CO2e);

36 It is estimated that around 30% of the processing stage’s carbon footprint is related to the application of dyes and finishes (EcoTextiles, Carbon Case Study: A Step in the Right Direction 2009 and knowledge of the project team) and that right first time is at approximately 60%, meaning achieve able improvement is up to 40% (Eco-Efficiency in Indian Dyehouses, DEFRA 2007 and knowledge of the project team). Therefore a 40% improvement in efficiency may be possible within 30% of the processing stage, which equates to 12% of the processing stage. 37 Nielsen PH, Kuilderd H, Zhou W and Lu X (2008): Enzyme biotechnology for sustainable textiles. In Blackburn R.S. (ed.): Sustainable textiles. Woodhead publishers. 38 SCAP Footprint Calculator Improvement Action – Novozymes Bio-Polishing (ERM 2014) 39 Only a limited amount of financial information was available for the analysis and as such this is based primarily on the views of the project team. This is why the scoring system to identify the most suitable opportunities to progress is basic in nature. Where no data was available at all, the opportunity is rated ‘medium’.


Consumer – low represents a significant benefit to consumers through increased product

life expectancy or washing improvements, medium is a potential benefit but the details of

this are unknown or has some positive and negative impacts to the consumer and high is

no benefit to the customer40; and

Scoring is based on low = 1, medium = 2 and high = 3. The lowest scoring opportunities

are therefore considered the most suitable to take forward.

A combined assessment of these factors is provided in the figure.

40 Assigning low, medium and high in this way may seem counterintuitive, however this is to ensure all the categories work in the same way i.e. so low is essentially positive and high is negative.


Figure 3 Impacts of implementing opportunities for improvement

Low Medium High Low Medium High Low Medium High Low Medium High

Anti-bacterials 2 1 1 1 5

Biopolishing 2 1 1 1 5

Siliconised fillings 2 1 1 1 5

Right first time application of dyes and finishes 1 2 1 3 7

Pigment printing 1 1 2 3 7

Industry education in available technologies 2 1 2 2 7

Easy care resin 2 1 3 1 7

High fixation dyes 2 2 1 2 7

Cotton and polyester blends 1 2 2 2 7

Alternative cottons 2 1 1 3 7

Use of recycled polyester 2 2 1 3 8

Avoid using washing detergents containing bleach 1 3 2 2 8

Reduced use of conditioners 1 3 3 1 8

Acceptance of off-white bedding - remove use of

optical brightening agents1 3 2 3 9

Increased collection for recycling/re-use 3 3 2 2 10

OpportunityCost to Implement Time to Implement Environmental Impact Consumer Impact Combined

Score


As can be seen from the figure, three opportunities offer the lowest combined score (of 5) and are therefore considered to be the most suitable for taking forward initially. Each of these is considered in turn below. Use of anti-bacterials The application of anti-bacterials to fabric is considered to reduce the need for washing by 50%41 and as such could attract up to 940kt CO2e savings and 10Mm3 water savings. They attract a financial outlay of approximately 7-14p per metre, with no significant capital costs considered necessary, this is considered to be a mid-range cost of implementation. It is also considered easy to implement as anti-bacterials are well established textile finishes that can be applied with existing equipment in dyehouses. It should also be noted that the full impacts on the sewage system of their use is not yet known which puts an additional barrier to the implementation of this opportunity. Biopolishing Biopolishing is the enzymatic treatment of fabrics at the finishing stage to remove pills from the fibre to make it look newer for longer, as described in section 9.1 of the report. Their use has a cost of around 10p per kg of textiles42 which is considered to be a mid-range cost of implementation. However the technique has the potential to increase the longevity of products by 20%43, which could result in significant environmental savings of up to 140kt CO2e, 114Mm3 of water and 4kt of waste. It is also considered easy to implement through existing equipment at existing dyers and finishers and is established existing technology. Use of siliconised fillings Siliconised fillings used for bedding (duvets and pillows) are believed to offer an extension in product life of 100%44. This could result in environmental savings of up to 871kt CO2e, 143 Mm3 of water and 25kt of waste. The use of these fillings has associated material costs of around 3p on an existing fibre cost of £1.10/ kg, resulting in an uplift of 0-3%45. It is also considered easy to implement as this is existing technology that requires no additional equipment and is already in commercial use. A further seven opportunities were assessed with a combined score of 7 and as such are also commented on here, as it is suggested these may also be suitable to take forward. Right first time application of dyes and finishes As detailed in section 9.1, the application of dyes and finishes right first time offers various efficiency gains within the processing of non-clothing textiles. These efficiencies result in material, financial and environmental savings46 to the manufacturing of any product within the sector as less application cycles for the dyes and finishes are used. However, cultural differences across the textile supply chain can make adopting new technology difficult, including the use of resource subsidies. It is suggested that to optimise its use, experts are required to support its implementation which would mean an initial financial investment, however overtime the resulting benefits should offer a good return. It should also be noted that no benefit to the consumer is believed to result from this opportunity, as it is expected that any cost savings made in production would not be passed onto the consumer. Pigment printing

41 Based on interview responses and knowledge of the project team 42 Based on project interviews 43 SCAP Footprint Calculator Improvement Action – Novozymes Bio-Polishing (ERM 2014) 44 Based on interview responses 45 Based on project interviews 46 It should be noted that the project team consider the water savings attributed to reductions modelled for right first time applications to be potentially higher than resulting from the SCAP model. This is because this opportunity would considerably reduce the number of dye baths and washing off processes.


Pigments are water insoluble colorants that are mainly used for printing and can be applied to all fabric and fibre types. They offer a cost-effective application process as they require no additional washing during production. As a result these colorants offer a financial benefit over conventional techniques of 35-60%, no significant capital costs are considered necessary47. Unfortunately no environmental data on the technique was available, however it is known to offer energy and water savings due to its nature of requiring no additional washing. It is also considered easy to implement as pigment printing is an established technology that has already been proven and is in use commercially. It should also be noted that no benefit to the consumer is believed to result from this opportunity, as it is expected that any cost savings made in production would not be passed onto the consumer. Industry education Industry education is recommended as it is a relatively low cost and easy to implement opportunity for the sector. By educating people throughout the supply chain (in the UK initially) in the available technologies, including material choice and dyeing and finishing techniques, the most suitable and advantageous selections can be made. Currently the Textile Institute run various courses which include elements of dyeing and finishing techniques and cost from around £60048, but it would be possible to develop a bespoke course for the sector if required. Easy care resin The addition of easy care resin to products is anticipated to result in the consumer being able to undertake 50% less ironing than on standard fibres49. It is also considered easy to implement as easy care resins are well established textile finishes that can be applied with existing equipment in dyehouses. They attract a financial outlay of approximately 3-6 pence per metre, with no significant capital costs considered necessary, this is considered to be a mid-range cost of implementation. However, it has a relatively low environmental benefit of 10kt CO2e attributed to it. High fixation dyes As described in section 9.1, these offer a higher strength dye, resulting in manufacturing savings and a product that looks newer for longer to the consumer, with around a 15% increase in longevity. This has the potential to make savings of up to 215kt CO2e, 11Mm3 of water and 13kt of waste. These dyes are around 20% cheaper50 to use overall than standard reactive dyes and as such have a cost benefit attached them to. However, the main obstacles to their use are water and electricity costs in producing countries where these are cheap or heavily subsidised there can be little incentive to change. Cotton and polyester blends Polyester cotton blends (polycottons) are used in a range of products, bedding, bed linen, cushions, table linens and window dressings. The cotton and polyester are usually blended during the spinning process but may also be blended at fabric production by mixing yarns made of cotton and polyester during weaving or knitting. Common blends are 50/50 or 80/20. Polyester and cotton are blended to give better durability in use and can increase product lifetime by up to 20%. More commonly polycottons are used as a cheaper alternative to pure cotton fabrics, with a retail financial saving to the consumer of around 30%. Alternative cottons

47 Based on the knowledge of the project team. 48 For a three day course https://www.textileinstitute.org/EventsPage.asp#mar5scot 49 Based on the knowledge of the project team. 50 Based on the knowledge of the project team

https://www.textileinstitute.org/EventsPage.asp#mar5scot


As described in section 9.1 BCI, organic and CmiA cottons all offer more efficient fibre production than conventional cotton, with savings of up to 534kt CO2e and 657Mm3 of water possible if implemented for this sector. These cottons have a variable cost associated to them, with a potential uplift of 0-20%; however they would be relatively easy to implement due to them being an established fibre choice. However, they have only a minimal impact on the consumer directly, by offering a ‘feel good factor’ in purchasing choice rather than any product improvement or financial benefit. 10.0 Conclusions & recommendations 10.1 Conclusions

The total UK market size for non-clothing textiles is 270k tonnes per annum out of

approximately 2.5-2.7 million tonnes of total textiles consumed;

A small proportion of this material is currently collected in the UK for reuse and recycling,

at just 5%;

In principle non-clothing textiles represent a more attractive recycling opportunity than

clothing due to more consistent colour, larger size items and fewer fastenings and

additions but is currently limited through a lack of markets and financial benefits;

There is a general lack of data on the habits of consumers in terms of the reasons for

discard, washing patterns and life expectancy of products. This inhibits developments

within the industry;

With the exception of towels, products within the sector tend to be long-lasting and less

frequently updated than clothing;

There is a lack of variety of technical skill in the supply chain and a general reluctance to

add chemical finishes within the supply chain due to effluent treatment concerns. There

is little understanding of how chemical finishes could help increase product life;

The sector’s carbon footprint hotspots occur in fibre production, processing and use

phases and for cotton and polyester;

The sector’s water footprint is dominated by the impact of the cotton fibre production;

As only 5% of the products are recycled at the end of life, the majority of the waste

footprint occurs at this stage;

A total of 17 opportunities for improved environmental efficiency have been identified

through this research, three of these had the strongest business case for implementation

based on the criteria used within this project. These are:

o Use of anti-bacterials;

o Use of siliconised fillings in bedding;

o Biopolishing;

If all three of these opportunities were implemented there would be potential

environmental savings of up to:

o 1,951kt CO2e or a reduction of 34% of the sector’s footprint;

o 267Mm3 water or a reduction of 19% of the sector’s footprint; and

o 29kt waste or a reduction of 9% of the sector’s footprint.

A further seven opportunities were deemed to have a case for implementation and as

such it is suggested these may also be suitable to take forward these are:

o Pigment printing;

o Right first time application of dyes and finishes;

o Industry education on available technologies;

o Use of high fixation dyes;


o Use of easy care resin;

o Polyester cotton blends; and

o Alternative cottons.

In implementing these opportunities, the following observations should be borne in mind:

o Cultural differences around the world can make the implementation of these

actions difficult, for example where there are little or no restrictions on

effluent discharge or treatment;

o Staff turnover in dyehouses can be very high, meaning any process changes

and controls implemented can be lost quickly;

o Anti-bacterials have a potential unknown negative impact on the sewage

system; and

o Regional variations in commodity prices, such as water and energy, can make

some of the opportunities less attractive in some areas.

10.2 Recommendations The eight opportunities identified as having a business case to support their implementation are recommended to be taken forward to support the improvement in environmental efficiency of the non-clothing textiles sector. The details of these are provided in the table.


Table 6 Opportunities recommended for initial uptake51

51 http://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:721017/FULLTEXT01.pdf and http://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A721017&dswid=4240

Carbon

Saving

(kt

CO2e)

Water

Saving

(Mm3)

Waste

Saving

(kt)

Anti-Bacterials 7-14p per metre Reduced washing need by 50% 940 10 0Siliconised Fillings 3p per item Doubles product life expectancy 871 143 25Biopolishing 10p per kg Increase product life expectancy by up to 20% 140 114 4Pigment Printing None identified 35-60% cheaper than conventional printing

Right First Time Training cost (unknown) Improved processing efficiencies by up to 12% 233 8 14Easy Care Resin Unknown Reduces need for ironing by up to 50% 10 0 0High Fixation Dyes None identified Improved processing efficiencies by up to 20% 0 11 13Cotton Polyester Blends Approx. 30% cheaper retail Increase product life expectancy by up to 20% 170 614 0

Alternative CottonsVariable - 0-20% price uplift

potentialIncreased efficiency in fibre production 435-534 159-657

Industry Education Approx. £600 per course Industry educated to select appropriate technology

Work with the Textile Institute or

other to establish a training course

in available technologies

CostOpportunity Main Benefit

No environmental data

Suggested Intervention

Environmental Savings

No environmental dataEducate & engage the supply chain

in the techniques.

Work with other EU Institutes to

learn from their research &

experiences, such as Norden51


As the research has concluded that cultural and regional differences may influence the uptake of these technologies, it is recommended that experts are required to support the implementation of these opportunities, which would mean an initial financial investment, however over time the resulting benefits should offer a good return. Additional recommendations generated through this research project are:

Additional research into consumer habits is required to understand washing patterns,

reasons for and methods of discard and product lifetimes; and

Further research into fibre to fibre recycling technology and development of a reverse

value chain could be of benefit in non-clothing textiles. This is based on the conclusion

that non-clothing textiles represent a more attractive recycling opportunity than clothing

for recycling due to more consistent colour, larger size items and fewer fastenings and

additions.


Appendix 1 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Summary of main classes of dyes used

Reactive Dyes These form a chemical covalent bond with the fibre and provide a wide range of colours offering excellent wash fast performance properties. They are mainly used for cellulosic fibres for example cotton and viscose and blends with other fibres. They have selected limited use on wool, silk and nylon. Reactive dyes can be applied by exhaustion (batch process) or cold pad batch process (semi-continuous). For printing they are applied with a thickener to hold the dye in a specific part of the design. All unfixed colour (not reacted with the fibre) has to be rigorously washed off to achieve the ultimate fastness properties on the finished product.

Vat Dyes The dye is applied as a water soluble form and then oxidised to form an insoluble pigment within the cellulosic fibre. Vat dyes are characterised by a more limited range of colours, high fastness properties. They are expensive to manufacture and require tight environmental controls to reduce their impact during use, as they use harsh chemicals during application. They can be used for exhaust dyeing, printing and continuous fabric dyeing.

Disperse Dyes Disperse dyes have no chemical fibre reaction. They are predominately used for dyeing polyester; there is no chemical reaction with the fibre and are applied using high energy to penetrate the fibre structure (exhaust dyeing 130 degrees centigrade). They can be applied by exhaustion and in the case of polyester blends with cotton are applied by continuous dyeing at temperatures over 200 degrees centigrade.

Pigments Pigments are water insoluble colorants that are mainly used for printing and are chemically inert, bound to the fibres with a polymer resin. They are characterised with a wide range of colours with a fabric handle which can be firmer due to the amount and type of resin used. They provide a cost-effective application process as they require no additional washing during production. Pigment printing can be applied to all fabric and fibre types.

Basic Dyes These dyes are mainly used for acrylic fibres and fabrics, in the production of throws and bed spreads, and in blends with other fibres.

Wool Dyes For the colouration of wool fibre and fabrics there are anionic acid dyes some of which are given an after chrome treatment (hexavalent chrome reduced to trivalent chrome) to improve their fastness. This presents environmental issues and therefore is being phased out. Pre-metallised dyes can be used for dull dark shades to provide high performance. Selective reactive dyes also provide high performance for navy and black and require no after chrome treatment, thus providing a softer handle and less wool damage. They are increasingly important for the colouration of wool.


Dyeing Processes

Exhaustion-Fabric and Yarn This is a batch process where the dye is exhausted from the water into the fibre using heat and dye circulation. It is suitable for all fabric and yarn fibre types.

Semi-continuous This process, mainly for 100% cellulosic, is referred to as Cold Pad Batch. The dye is padded on to the fabric and allowed to react for a specific time, dependent on the shade, and then washed to remove all unfixed colour.

Yarn Dyeing This is a batch wise process, and used where colour woven or knitted strip effects are required.

Continuous Dyeing This process is predominantly used for woven fabric blends of polyester and cotton. It is commonly referred to as thermosol dyeing where the disperse dye is forced into the polyester fibre under high temperatures of 200 degrees centigrade plus. The cotton portion is dyed as part of the process with either vat dyes or reactives. Main types of fabric dyed this way are plain sheets, duvets, curtains, work wear fabrics.

Finishing

Easy Care/Stability There are limited opportunities through the application of chemical finishes to improve longevity or product life cycles. The main chemicals used are resins which require strict control as most contain formaldehyde, which is classified as carcinogenic. The major brands control formaldehyde to very low levels, however zero formaldehyde finishes have been developed to address this issue at no real additional costs however they do not offer the same level of performance of ease of care as those finish resins that still contain formaldehyde. Resin finishes do lower the cellulosic fibre strength.

Softeners Softeners are many and varied offering hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties with limited long term durability to washing. The use of fluorocarbons offer many opportunities to achieve excellent oil and water resistance, however they have a question mark over their future as they are based on fluorine chemistry.

Anti-bacterials Anti-bacterials are now used extensively on textile clothing to control odour caused by the body breaking down sweat bacteria. The question remains; is the risk of using anti-bacterial greater than the benefits? Careful control in respect of disposal of the unused product after application in production is required. Such products when allowed to go straight down the drains may have serious implications in effluent and waste water treatment plants i.e. kill the good bacteria.


The cost of adding such finishes could be in the region of £2 on the selling price of the finished article. The argument here could be, although not proven, that the use of anti-bacterials could reduce the amount of washing by the customer and use lower temperatures

Nanotechnology

This is a marketing terminology used more recently to describe a range of finishing chemicals which have a particle size of under 100 nano metres (one billionth of a metre.) Many products in the established market place already meet this requirement. Nano technology does allow the use of less chemical to achieve enhanced performance properties.

Fluorocarbons

These are a range of fluorine based chemicals which offer world leading performance of water repellency and oil based stain protection used in some areas of the textile industry where high performance is seen as an added value i.e. table coverings. They have been established in the market place for many years, however more recently they have come under pressure from NGO campaigns e.g. Greenpeace DETOX campaign, because of chemicals byproducts which may be considered toxic. The chemical industry is moving away from the traditional high performance C8 chemistry fluorocarbons to the lower performing C6 flourocarbons. Greenpeace is calling for a complete elimination of fluorocarbons.

Product Categories

Curtains Curtains and furnishing fabrics require the selection of high light fast dyes and pigments, but are less frequently cleaned meaning that for these end uses that the dyes mainly used are selected reactives and vats to achieve the highest quality. Pigments are generally used for cheaper products. The main finishes used are usually cross linked resin polymers to give stability and to prevent curtains dropping in use. However, such finishes which may contain formaldehyde have to be carefully selected as they can lower the light fastness of the dyes used. Products carry a wide range of care labels from light machine wash to professional dry cleaning. Dyes have to be selected to perform to the cleaning process specified. However, in many cases because the articles are large they cannot be home cleaned which adds to the cost of servicing.

Towels Towels are predominately reactive dyed in which the dye molecule is chemically linked with the cellulosic fibre. The emphasis is on high wash fastness durability to modern day detergents, and are finished only with a variety of softeners (some having a durability of a few washes with more expensive ones up to 25, clearly the more durable ones cost more) Here the key requirement is hydrophilicity. Softness of handle, hydrophilicity and colour integrity to repeated washes are the key performance requirements. Many brand advise the customer not to use fabric conditioners as they can impair the absorbency. For reasons of hygiene most towels carry at 50 degree centigrade wash care label. This requires the selection of high fastness, high wash fast dyes.

Bedding/ Bed Linen and Curtains Most bedding and bedroom curtains are pigment printed in which the pigments are inert insoluble water colours bound to the fibre by water resin. The main finishes used are easy care resins combined in some cased with a soil release finish in bedding. The choice and amount of binder used dictates the colours durability to washing but can also impair softness


on handle. Most products are machine washable to provide lower after care costs. Temperatures vary between 40 and 50 degrees centigrade. For plain dyed and printed products the major blend used for durability is cotton/polyester for which a combination of disperse/reactive/vats dyes with be used in the colouration process as both fibres have to be dyed to achieve solid shades. The blends of polyester with cotton have been developed over many decades and have a proven record of longevity.


Appendix 2 Interview Responses

Provided as a separate PDF, for reasons of confidentiality.

www.wrap.org.uk/relevant link

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