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FINE PERFUMERS Est. 1870 EDITION 3 Autumn/Winter 2016
FINE PERFUMERS Est . 1870 EDITION 3 Autumn/Winter 2016
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
A LETTER FROM THE BUTLER
My Lords, Ladies and Right Honourable Guests,
Please allow me to welcome you to the third edition of the
Penhaligon’s Times, a Very British Affair.
Your readership has been eagerly anticipated – at our townhouse
here in the heart of London – as the sun gently rises over our majestic
city – our domestic staff have been arduously at work for you, drawing
baths, airing rooms, lighting fires and viciously beating carpets…
preparing to enliven your senses.
In fact… by way of introduction – might I be permitted to
familiarise you with our esteemed Portraits family?
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
CONTRIBUTORS
CONTENTS
Butler Narrator
Daphné Bugey Master Perfumer
Kristjana Williams Illustrator
Debs Paterson Writer
Magdalena Piehl Art Director
Chloe Tun Tun Photographer
Emma Parker Writer
The Tragedy of Lord GeorgePage number 4
The Revenge of Lady BlanchePage number 6
The Coveted Duchess RosePage number 8
Much Ado About the DukePage number 10
SCANDAL!Page number 12
Little Known LondonPage number 12
Find Your PortraitPage number 14
The Butler In Conversation With...Page number 16
The World Of Penhaligon’sPage number 17
Penhaligon’s New & Worldwide Stores Page number 18 & 19
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
THE TRAGEDY OF LORD GEORGE
T he Patriarch, of course, Lord George. A
man immortalised by his legacy.
Masculine, elegant, full of panache (and
hints of brandy) – powerful, rich and ever-welcoming.
Seemingly the embodiment of aristocracy – he is
honourable to a tee, embraced by all; and his fidelity
to King and Country is resolute. His fidelity to Lady
Blanche, on the other hand… But as he mutters into
his shaving foam in the morning, ‘The flesh is weak...’
Expect to be intoxicated (as he will be, no doubt) when you
meet in the smoky eaves of his study. His stag’s wit is warm, dry and
salty – but as for his true feelings, well… Lord George maintains the
secret to his station (and to his lasting marriage) is that a gentleman’s
heart must never fully be divined…
he Patriarch, of course, Lord George. A
man immortalised by his legacy.
to King and Country is resolute. His fidelity to Lady
Blanche, on the other hand… But as he mutters into
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
H I S F R A G R A N C E
Masculine and elegant — with a hint of rum.
A reassuringly masculine fragrance to represent the patriarch of
the family. A modern twist on the timeless fougére theme of barbershop
freshness, adding a mischievous dash of fun whilst preserving heritage.
Opening with a mineral and elegant fern-like brightness, blended with a
shot of fruity and ambery rum. The smoky and balsamic facets of tonka
lead into the powerful, woody and animalic effects of ambrox. Captivating
and intoxicating.
Woody Ambery Fougére
Brandy – Shaving Soap –Tonka Bean
“ Fa i t h f u l t o K i n g & C o u n t r y ”
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
THE REVENGE OF LADY BLANCHE
Charmingly unpredictable, Lady Blanche is
idolised by all society – born into money,
married money, wants more money – she is
the aristo-chic. At first encounter, fresh, fragrant,
sweet and light – she is a floral narcotic, conjuring an
English country garden’s hyacinth and – lest we forget
– narcissus. And those perfect blooms almost mask
her thorny sharpness beneath. A veritable gem – she
sparkles, with hard corners.
Consider yourself warned therefore that her bite is worse than
her bark – and Lord George should take note. Lady Blanche is the
leopard of this house. Sleek, powerful and stealthy – perhaps with
deadly intent…
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AN OLFACTORY FICTIONAN OLFACTORY FICTION
H E R F R A G R A N C E
For those in-the-know.
A refined and delicate scent with the astute wisdom of an
impeccable matriarch. A woody floral with discretion and finesse,
a discerning look from the nobility. Contrasted and green, an
opening of angelica provides both lightness and depth. With the
unexpected and modest floralcy of the daffodil in the heart, an
astonishing and spicy ginger flower lends an element of excitement
to the atmosphere of good taste. Exquisite and secretive.
Narcotic Green Floral
Powdery Orris – Narcissus Flower – Hyacinth
“ I t w a s a m u r d e r b u t h a r d l y a c r i m e ”
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
THE COVETED DUCHESS ROSE
Daughter of Lord George and Lady Blanche
(and heir to all their fortune) the now
Duchess Rose married Duke Nelson in
the society wedding of the year – some say to escape
the rigour of her parents’ watchful eye. You will
immediately sense the purity and pedigree of her
English rose – its petals still green, fresh and youthful
– but as your acquaintance with her grows, there is much more to be
discovered. An unexpected sensuality. A mandarin zest for life –
brimming with juiciness and oriental vigour, and relaxing to a self-
assured, confident and explosively sexy chypre. She is a mischievous
fox – clever and capable of deceit whilst always pursuing opportunity.
This pampered heiress has hidden depths and she intends to
surprise…
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
“ G o l l y, I ’ m f e e l i n g e v e r s o h o t ”
H E R F R A G R A N C E
A sparkling and ostensibly innocent scent for the youthful daughter.
A translucent floral fragrance, an English rose with hidden sensuality
and thorns. Sweet and effervescent at first, a delicate and fruity
mandarin creates a bright exuberance. A pastel pink rose sits squarely
at the heart, luminous and romantic. The woody, sensual character
of ambrox adds modernity and disrupts the innocent air of the rose.
Graceful and carnal.
Delicate Woody Rose
Mandarin – Rose – Musky Wood
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
MUCH ADO ABOUT THE DUKE
Conforming to the pressures of his heritage (and
pocket book) Duke Nelson snapped up
London’s most coveted prize in the now
Duchess Rose. Eccentric and uncommon, the Duke’s
whimsical ambivalence animates society gossip (which is
adamant that the marriage has yet to consummated…). A
man of the arts, the Duke attracts both floral delicacy and rooted
masculinity. An English hound – he is loyal to a fault but endlessly
bounding after strangers. But flamboyancy isn’t a sin. He carries both
an air of his wife’s peppery rose, and also the leathery woods of the
hunt – all washed down with gin (as every gentleman should). The
Duke is exotic, rich, ephemeral and decadent. Extravagant in his
tastes and liminal in his inclination…
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
H I S F R A G R A N C E
An unconventional and eccentric scent, just like the
Duke himself. A masculine rose, itself a contradiction,
that captures the spirit of modern dandyism –
dynamic and effortlessly chic. The sparkling,
aromatic character of a spiced gin opens the scent,
airy and clear. A handsome rose, ambivalent with
woods and smoke, is amplified by a debauched
and shameless touch of cumin. Suggestive and
ambiguous.
Enchanting Spicy Rose
Peppery Rose – Gin – Leathery Woods
“ F l a m b o y a n c y i s n’ t a s i n”
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T H E S E C R E T B I T S O F L O N D O N ; T H O S E H A R D T O F I N D L I T T L E G E M S T H AT M A K E S L O N D O N , L O N D O N .
Mark’s Club. Lord George spends
his days with the old crowd at
Mark’s Club safely based in
the conservative environs of
St James’s. This is his space;
somewhere where he feels at
home and understood.
The Chelsea Physic Garden.
On Swann Walk, through a
small doorway, magic happens.
Chelsea Physic Garden is so well
hidden that you would not even
guess it was there. Lady Blanche
is often seen walking through the
garden, enjoying the colours and
fragrances of the blossoms and
flowers.
The Savoy Hotel. Completed in
1889, becoming the epitome of
luxurious chic. This is where Belle
Epoque chic mixed with good
old fashioned fun, an escape
for Duchess Rose. Completely
missed by Duchess Rose, there
was not a chance she would be
seen walking out behind the hotel
but a small chapel stands at the
back of the hotel which has stood
there since the reign of Henry VII.
Café Royale. The Duke is a
Piccadilly dandy and The Café
Royal has been the fashionable
person’s drinking establishment
since it opened in 1865. The
Duke loves to dine and drink here
with like-minded men and the
more ‘artistic’ crowd.1
W H I S P E R S O F S C A N D A L H A V E B E G U N T O S U R FA C E .
What really lies behind the good manners of Britain’s most-loved
family? Is Lord George as faithful to Lady Blanche as he is to
King & Country? The sources are as yet unsubstantiated but stay
‘in-the-know’ for new developments. To be continued……
Chapter 2 launches, February 2017.
SHOCK... DISBELIEF...SCANDAL!
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
1. Mark’s Club, Mayfair
2. Café Royal, Piccadilly
3. Chelsea Physic Garden, Chelsea
4. Chelsea Physic Garden, Chelsea
5. The Queen’s Chapel of the Savoy, Savoy Hill
6. The Savoy Hotel, Covent Garden
2
3
4 5
6
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
FIND YOUR PORTRAIT J O U R N E Y W I T H U S A N D D I S C O V E R W H AT M E M B E R O F T H E
P O RT R A I T S FA M I LY Y O U H A V E M O R E I N C O M M O N W I T H T H A N Y O U T H I N K ( O R W O U L D L I K E ! )
D R E S S E D T O T H E N I N E S , T H E W O R L D I S Y O U R O Y S T E R ! A N I G H T AT T H E O P E R A ? O R P E R H A P S Y O U FA N C Y A
R E A L J O L LY … Y O U H O T F O O T I T T O T H E FA S H I O N A B L E P E R S O N ’ S D R I N K I N G E S TA B L I S H M E N T ?
Shocking! Your husband is there. He is not alone. You
are aghast! Caught red handed, you strike him across the
face! Or perhaps do you turn the other cheek…
after all revenge is best served cold.
I G N O R EYou storm off to the
bar to plot your revenge
over a glass of the finest
champagne. You catch
your icy reflection in
the glass.
T E ASwirling the leaves in the
cup as the boiling water
pours on top of them,
your face is mirrored in
the dark brew.
You are Lady Blanche.
Sleek, powerful and
stealthy – perhaps with
deadly intent…
You are Lady Blanche.
Sleek, powerful and
stealthy – perhaps with
deadly intent…
You are Duchess Rose.
This pampered heiress
has hidden depths and
she intends to surprise…
You are Duchess Rose.
This pampered heiress
has hidden depths and
she intends to surprise…
S L A PYou remove your glove as you
stride towards your husband
with an open palm. As you
raise your hand, you notice
your reflection in the mirror
behind the bar.
C H A M PA G N EAs the waiter fills your
glass, your reflection
catches you off guard.
What’s your tipple? Can one be tempted by a glass of the
finest champagne? Perhaps just Earl Grey for now? Who
knows how the evening may unfold, you may need to
keep your wits about you…
O P E R AD R I N K I N G
E S TA B L I S H M E N T
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
W H E R E W O U L D O N E L I K E T O G O O N T H I S F I N E E V E N I N G . D O Y O U C H O O S E A N I G H T AT T H E T H E AT R E O R A
N I G H T W I T H T H E O L D C R O W D S A F E LY B A S E D I N T H E C O N S E RV AT I V E E N V I R O N S O F A G E N T L E M E N ’ S C LU B ?
What is ones topic of conversation?
Are you discussing art or politics?
P O L I T I C SAs you start a discussion
about the current state
of affairs, the Chancellor
of the Exchequer
addresses you directly.
W I F EYou enter the theatre,
your wife on your arm,
and take seats in your
private box. She turns to
you, with a knowing look,
and thanks you for what
she truly believes is a
wonderful night ahead…
You are Lord George.
Seemingly the embodiment of
aristocracy – he is honourable
to a tee…or so it seems.
You are Lord George.
Seemingly the embodiment of
aristocracy – he is honourable
to a tee…or so it seems.
You are The Duke.
Extravagant in his
tastes and liminal in his
inclination…
You are The Duke.
Extravagant in his
tastes and liminal in his
inclination…
A RTYou launch into a monologue
about the virtues of the latest
exhibit of a fashionable young
sculptor, who happens to turn
to you and greet you…
A L O N ETaking your usual seat
in the second row,
the interesting looking
young fellow next to you
introduces himself.
Does one keep up appearances and take one’s wife?
Or do you go alone, footloose and fancy free?
G E N T L E M E N ’ S C LU B
T H E AT R E
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
THE BUTLER IN CONVERSATION WITH...D A P H N É B U G E Y M a s t e r Pe r f u m e r
B: How did you start out in the Perfume industry?
D: I studied perfumery at ISIPCA, the perfumery school located in Versailles, France and was trained by Firmenich during the internship program. I learnt a lot from different Perfumers about the technical side of my craft as well as on raw materials before I joined the Fine Fragrance team in Paris.
B: What drew you to the world of fragrance at such a young age? We read that you knew you wanted to become a perfumer at age 10.
D: I knew from the age of 10 that I was destined to become a perfumer as I was passionate about everything that constitutes the world of fragrance. Always on the lookout for scents, I collected bottles and advertisements.
B: Describe your style. Is your personality reflected in the fragrances you create?
D: Like an actress who embraces the character she is playing, I adapt to each subject I work for. I enter the brand universe that I will translate into scents with my own sensibility, my own perception, experience and intuition. Once I have an understanding of the brand and I feel the fit with the team, then I can impart my own personality.
B: How long does it take you to develop a fragrance?
D: It really depends on the project. Developing a new fragrance takes me between one week and four years…
B: What are your favourite materials and scents to work with?
D: I have a lot of favourite ingredients; from citrus to woods, rose (reinventing rose is a never ending story!), spices such as ginger, to sensuous vanilla and ambrox.
B: When did you first discover Penhaligon’s?
D: I knew Penhaligon’s by reputation as the iconic British perfumer from the Victorian era. This new project is breaking the codes with a totally innovative approach.
B: Do you have a favourite Penhaligon’s fragrance?
D: I like Juniper Sling created by Olivier Cresp. Choosing amongst the new collection, The Duke is the one.
B: What was it like working on a fragrance that is based on a fictional character? How did this inspire you?
D: We had a lot of fun. This new original concept was very exciting as it was offbeat. Characters were described with many crucial details with clear direction. I quickly had a clear vision of my creation. I imagined how to translate the atmosphere.
K R I S T J A N A W I L L I A M S ,
I l l u s t r a t o r
B: When did you know you wanted to become an artist?
K: At the age of six I was constantly drawing and painting, however, when I reached my teenage years I moved away from the idea as I never dreamed I could make a career out of being an artist. Then in my mid-twenties, I went back to study graphic design at Central Saint Martins, majoring in illustration. Outline Editions gallery picked up on my work and it went from there.
B: What inspires you/what were your earliest influences?
K: I think the earliest influences are the most interesting as you are not really aware of them till you look back. My childhood in Iceland is very much embedded in my work. The nature in Iceland is clearly portrayed, the starkness of the black and white treatment of the engravings looking to the frozen-over sea and black sandy beaches. My love of colour has also been influenced by Iceland, where I craved light and colour during the long, dark winters.
B: Describe your style.
K: Modern engraver.
B: Can you tell us a little about your creative process: how does an idea turn into an illustration – and how long does it take?
K: This varies immensely, sometimes a piece can be brewing for years then all of a sudden it comes to life over a few weeks, whereas other pieces are constantly changing and evolving and take many months to take shape. There is no perfect formula. It all starts with a lot of research and planning.
B: When did you first discover Penhaligon’s?
K: Many years ago in the Burlington Arcade store.
B: Do you have a favourite Penhaligon’s fragrance?
K: I recently visited the Penhaligon’s store in Burlington Arcade for a ‘fragrance profiling’ appointment. The fragrance expert in the store asked me various questions about my tastes and lifestyle to find the Penhaligon’s scent that would suit me the most – it was a truly wonderful experience! Juniper Sling is a favourite, due to its freshness and my love of gin! However, I couldn’t just choose one and Halfeti is another favourite – it’s so rich and deep, the perfect evening scent.
B: The Victorian Era is a great inspiration for you, is that what first drew you to the Portraits project?
K: Penhaligon’s history alone was enough.
B: What inspiration did you take from the characters?
K: The richer the narrative the more creative I can get.
B: What you’re favourite portrait character/fragrance?
K: Lord George.
B: If you could be one of the Portraits characters, who would you be and why?
K: I feel a close affinity to Lord George, being the head of the family. He is also the first character I worked on for this project, so I am drawn to him as it was my first introduction into the Penhaligon’s Portraits world.
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
THE WORLD OF PENHALIGON’S
E N D Y M I O N C O N C E N T R É
Endymion Concentré is an intense iteration
of the original Endymion. A semi-oriental
fragrance, like its namesake, this new
concentré is timeless in its beauty and
intense in its appeal. A fusion of spices,
leather and florals, Endymion Concentré
opens with notes of sage and lavender
to reveal the sensuality of suede layered
with geranium. As it warms to the skin,
leather notes intensify and hints of creamy
nutmeg mix with incense for a base that is
both sweet and seductive.
O U D D E N I L
The Nile captivates the imagination,
conjuring images of mythical temples
and a fleet of feluccas. Penhaligon’s
signature colour, “Eau De Nil”, is inspired
by the river. Oud De Nil is therefore a
“play on words” as a tribute to the origin
of Penhaligon’s signature colour and of
the majestic river that inspired so many
journeys. The fragrance represents this
imaginary journey. Clean white robes
billowing like sails on The Nile, the desert
wind bringing scents of jasmine and exotic
fruits embellishing a dry desert base of
precious woods.
E Q U I N O X B L O O M
Inspired by the quintessentially English
tradition of afternoon tea, and the
transitional moment when day turns to
evening and when cold Winter yields
to Spring. Delicious notes of chantilly,
frangipani and brown sugar are blended
with violet leaves, orange blossom absolute
and jasmine sambac, rounded with the
deep, oriental richness of benzoin siam
and ambrox.
A L I Z A R I N
An intriguing and intense Oud inspired by
the red dye, Alizarin, cultivated in Egypt
since antiquity. The distinctive red colour
would continue to be worn for centuries
giving British soldiers the nickname of
“redcoats”. Intense and mysterious,
Alizarin conjures whispers of oud, precious
vetiver and rare resins. A homage to the
millenary tradition of fragrance in Egypt,
it is reminiscent of ancient and traditional
perfumes.
LU N A
Inspired by the light of a magnificent
crescent moon that brightens one’s
dreams, this luxurious fragrance captures
the intoxicating spirit of the mythical
Goddess of the Moon. Hypnotic and
sensual, Luna shines up from the dark
water, illuminating the ink-coloured night
sky. Opening with the bitter freshness of
orange bigarade, the heart unfolds with the
crisp lightness of juniper berry, rounded off
with the sensuality of a dark woody base.
Penhaligon’s has been busy creating delectable new fragrances and opening new stores,
bringing the fragrant world of Penhaligon’s to all corners of the globe.
D E L I G H T F U L N E W F R A G R A N C E S
GUIDE TO BRITISH TEA DRINKING ETIQUETTE
• Oneshouldaddmilkoncetheteahasbrewed• Stirtheteagently–onemustneverswirl• Onemustneverholdone’spinkiefingerextended–thistypeof
extravagant behaviour is considered improper• Oneshouldholdthecupwiththethumbandfingers–nevergrasp
the bowl of the cup with one’s hand• Undernocircumstanceshouldoneeversipfromthespoon• Afterstirringremovethespoonandplaceitonthesaucer–tothe
right of the handle• Lookintotheteacup,neveroverit–andonabsolutelynooccasion
should one’s eyes meet with another guest• Undernocircumstanceshouldone‘dunk’abiscuit–thiswould
simply be primitive
• Onemustsip,notslurpone’s tea
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
NEW STORES P E N H A L I G O N ’ S C O N T I N U E S T O O P E N
S T O R E S I N N E W A N D E X C I T I N G L O C AT I O N S A C R O S S T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S .
Our new stores showcase our updated brand vision, using brand colour
palette and materials. They represent a mix of traditional & luxurious material
associated with high quality craftsmanship.
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AN OLFACTORY FICTION
PENHALIGON’S STORES WORLDWIDE
UNITED KINGDOM
Burlington Arcade16-17 Burlington Arcade
PiccadillyLondon W1J 0PL
Cambridge22 St Andrew’s Street
Grand ArcadeCambridge CB2 3BJ
Canary WharfCabot Place
Canary WharfLondon, E14 4QS
Chester22 Eastgate Row South
Chester CH1 1LF
Covent Garden41 Wellington Street
Covent GardenLondon WC2E 7BN
Covent Garden Piazza13 The Piazza
Market Building Covent Garden WC2E 8RB
Edingburgh33 George Street
Edinburgh EH2 2HN
Harrods87-135 Brompton Road
London W1A 1AB
Islington112 Islington High Street
IslingtonLondon N1 8EG
Kings Road132 Kings Road
ChelseaLondon SW3 4TR
Mayfair20A Brook Street
MayfairLondon W1K 5DE
Regent Street125 Regent StreetLondon W1B 4HT
Royal Exchange4 Royal Exchange
CornhillLondon EC3V 3LL
SelfridgesLower ground floor400 Oxford StreetLondon W1A 1AB
INTERNATIONAL
Bangkok689 Emquartier Shopping Center
Sukhumvit Road,Klongton-Nua
Wattana, Bangkok, 10110
DubaiDubai Mall
Dubai, 113444
Hong Kong3025A Podium Level 31 Harbour View Street
999077 Central Hong Kong
Hong KongKiosk A Level 3 Gateway Arcade
Harbour City Hong Kong
Los Angeles439 1/2 N. Rodeo DriveBeverly Hills, CA 90210
MilanVia Brera 5
20121 Milan
New YorkRockefeller Centre620 5th AvenueNew York City
New YorkWorld Trade Center 185 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10007
Paris34 rue des Francs Bourgeois
75003, Paris
Paris209 rue Saint Honoré
75001, Paris
Short HillsThe Mall at Short Hills1200 Morris Turnpike
Short Hills,New Jersey, NJ 07078
Singapore#3-16 ION Orchard
2 Orchard TurnSingapore 238801
Singapore01-33/34 Marina Bay Sands
10 Bay Front AvenueSingapore 018956
Stanford151 Stanford Shopping Center
Palo Alto, CA 94304
TaipeiXin Yi shopping mall
No 68 , Sec 5, zhong Xiao East Road110 Taipei City
– OPENING SOON –
AventuraAventura Mall
19501 Biscayne BlvdAventura, FL 33180
HonoluluInternational Marketplace
417 Nohonani StHonolulu, HI 96815
San FranciscoSan Francisco Center
865 Market StSan Francisco, CA 94103
ParamusWestfield Garden State Plaza 1 Garden State Plaza Blvd
Paramus, NJ 07652
P E N H A L I G O N ’ S P O RT R A I T S O N I N S TA G R A M
What really lies behind the good manners of
Britain’s aristocracy? You decide…
/penhaligons_portraits
Visit us in-store or online to receive a complimentary
Penhaligon’s Portrait sample
USECODE:PORTRAITS
#penhaligonsxportraits
P E N H A L I G O N S . C O M
