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FINISHING OF GARMENTS
Durable press finish
Wash –n-wear finish
Different types of finishing parameters and controlling factors (padding, curing, permanent set, surface property after finishing)
Presented by:Ms. T. Srivani, Asst. Professor, DFT
Cellulose fibres and especially cotton are still important fibres
due to various advantages. However, one of their main
disadvantages is wrinkling after washing which can be
overcome by a very special kind of finish. These are called as
Drip-dry, Wash & Wear, Easy care, Easy to iron, no-iron,
crease resistant, durable press, permanent press, shrink
proof, wrinkle free finishes
WASH & WEAR FINISHES:
These are also referred to as drip-dry finishes. They are of the same type as wrinkle resistant finishes.
Garments made of fabrics with wash and wear finishes will dry smooth and need little or no ironing after washing. The fabrics have a good soft hand and a neat appearance.
Wash and wear finishes have been primarily used on broad cloth and oxford shirting and applied to other cotton fabrics.
Each company has its own trade mark for its drip-dry finish.Garments made of fabrics treated with this finish may beCommercially laundered.
The primary advantage is that such garments launder easily at home and need no ironing. This tends to increase their wear since home laundering is less harsh as a mild soap is used.
In some cases, wash and wear finishes cause yellowing when a chlorine bleach is used, labels should therefore be read carefully.
Do not wring the garments or spin dry them in washing machine or in a dryer.
Rinse them well, hang them on wooden or plastic hangers, buttoned and straightened out and allow them to drip dry.
Finishes: Resin pre condensates are sued for finishing fabrics for this effect.
Durable or Permanent press finishes:
The development of permanent press, also referred to as PP & durable press finishing techniques is s great achievement for manufacturers to overcome difficulties in making wrinkle resistant goods in to garments.
This finish gave the fabrics a built- in memory which interfered with shaping garments to conform to body contours, pressing creases into trousers and putting pleats in skirts.
Wash and wear finishes described earlier is a pre cured process, i.e., before the goods are cut and sewn into garments.
The permanent press finishes are post cured.
I. Fabric Resin Cross linking Dry at open width
Cure at open widthCut, sew and pressPre cured
Ex: Shirting, Draparies etc. which require C/P blends not set in creases.
II. Post cured or permanent press:
Fabric Resin cross linking Dry at open width
Cut, sew and pressCure products at 300-400o F
Post cured
Ex: Used for skirts, slacks and other products.Common with cotton and polyester blends.
Methods of application on garments:
1.Immersion process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look
Immerse the garment or product in the finishing agent and extract excess finish and dry the product.
Hand and performance are modified with fabric softeners and other compounds so that the finished product will appeal to consumers.
Press desired features-like creases, pleats etc. in to garment with special press
Cure product in curing oven at 300o F for 5-15 min
Used for fashion apparel of 100% cotton
Also known as the garment or product dip process
2. Metered-Addition process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look
Spray the garments or product with finishing agent in a rotating chamber. Tumble till uniformly processed
Hand and performance can be adjusted with fabric softeners and other compounds
Press desired features
Cure at 300o F for 5-15 min.
Used for fashion apparel and furnishings, bed linens and towels of 100% cotton
3. Vapour phase process:
Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look
Press desired features into garment with a hot press
Hand and performance can be adjusted with softeners and other compounds
Apply finish in a vapour form to the product in a closed chamber and cure while in chamber
Used for cotton and other natural fibres
Uses less finishing chemicals so the effect on hand, abrasion resistance and staining is less
Keraton, Super crease, Dan-press, Cone press,
Sharp shape, Kara set, Never-press, Ameri-set
are some of the trade names for permanent
press or durable press finish fabrics.
Durable press wool:
It is achieved by a combination of resin treatmentWhich controls wool’s excessive shrinkage.
Si-Ro-Set is a trade name.
1. Flat fabric is treated with 1-2% of durable press resin and steamed for 3-5 minutes
2. Item is made up, sprayed with more durable press resin and pressed
Shrink resistance resin is mixed with a dry cleaning solvent and item is dry cleaned
The resin is cured 3-7 days before laundering
Durable-press Silk:
Since silk wrinkles easily when wet, poly carboxylic acid is used to produce durable press or wrinkle resistant silk.
This finish is durable to launderings but looses 20 % loss of strength, increase in stiffness and decrease in whiteness.
Requirements:
1.No iron or easy to iron
2.Durable press performance
3.Dimensional stability
4.Soft and pleasant handle
5.High abrasion stability
6.Tare strength
Chemicals used:
Urea Formaldehyde
DMU-Dimethylol urea
Melamine formaldehyde
TMM – Tri –to hexamethylol melamine
DHEU – Di hydroxy ethylene urea
DMDHEU- Di methylol ethylene urea
Care:
Wash items frequently because resins have a strongAffinity for oil and grease
Pre treat stains, collars and cuffs.
Use spot removal agent on grease spots
Keep wash loads small to minimize wrinkling
Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat
Keep washing temperature cool
Remove items promptly when dry
THANK YOU