1

Fjord MS 33

Owners Manual

2

INDEX INDEX ............................................................... 2

Operating Instructions 3 ..................................... 3

Operating Instructions 3 ................................. 3

1) General....................................................... 4

2) Checking list .............................................. 4

3) Main switches ............................................ 4

4) Fuse panel .................................................. 5

5) Switch panel .............................................. 6

6) Steering positions instrumentation ............ 7

Version A ....................................................... 7

Version B ....................................................... 8

Both Versions................................................. 9

7) Checking engine oil level ........................ 10

8) Checking for bilge water ......................... 11

9) Fire extinguishers .................................... 12

10) Operating the marine toilet .................... 14

11) Operating the stove ................................ 14

12) Operating the refrigerator ...................... 15

13) Operating the ventilator ......................... 15

14) Navigation Lights .................................. 15

15) Handling the boat with engine ............... 16

16) Handling the boat with sails .................. 17

17) Safety at sea ........................................... 17

Description of the Systems 4 ......................... 18

1) Engine and propulsion system .............. 20

a) General ..................................................... 20

b) Stern tube ................................................. 20

c) Propeller and shaft end ............................ 21

d) Propeller locking device .......................... 21

e) Bleeding the fuel system .......................... 22

f) Periodic attentions .................................... 22

g) Shaft alignment ........................................ 23

2) Plumbing................................................. 23

a) Fuel system . ............................................ 23

b) Water cooling system .............................. 25

c) Bilge water system ................................... 25

d) Fresh water and sanitary system .............. 26

e) Cockpit drainage and deck scuppers ........ 28

f) Exhaust outlet ........................................... 28

g) Through-hull fittings................................ 28

3) Electrical systems ................................... 29

a) General ..................................................... 29

b) The batteries ............................................ 29

c) Wiring diagram ........................................ 29

d) Periodical maintenance ............................ 29

e) Bonding - protection against corrosion .... 30

4) The fire extinguishers ............................ 30

5) The steering system ............................... 30

6) The rig and the sails............................... 31

a) General ..................................................... 31

b) Stepping the mast and setting the standing

rigging .......................................................... 31

c) Hoisting the sails and reefing the main .... 32

d) Periodic attentions ................................... 32

Maintenance of Exterior and Interior.......... 33

1) Gelcoat ..................................................... 34

2) Anti-fouling ............................................. 34

3) Deck fittings and hardware ...................... 34

4) Woodwork ............................................... 34

5) Floor covering in dog-house .................... 35

6) Carpeting ................................................. 35

7) Vinyl covering ......................................... 35

8) Interior upholstery ................................... 35

9) Curtains .................................................... 35

3

Operating Instructions 3

4

1) General

FJORD MS 33 is built in two versions as far as the

cockpit and interior arrangement are concerned. The

version with control bridge in the cockpit,

pantry/galley in the dog-house and pilot-berths in the

saloon is in the following denoted Version A. The

version with steering pedestal in the cockpit, dinette

and pantry/ galley in the saloon is in the following

denoted Version B.

2) Checking list

Before starting your engine, make it a rule to go

through the following checking list:

— Switch ON the main switches for the electric 12-

Volt system (see paragraph 3.3).

— Check engine oil level (paragraph 3.5).

— Check for bilge water (paragraph 3.6).

— Check that propeller stop is disengaged

(paragraph 3.7).

— Check that exhaust outlet valve is open (see

paragraph 4.2.e).

— Check controls and instruments. Turn starting key

one notch to check warning lights. The starting key

in this position will engage the fuel gauge. Check for

fuel oil.

— See that the gear control is disengaged on engine

control box to be used for starting and warming up

(paragraph 3.8).

By this time you should have thoroughly acquainted

yourself with all controls, switches and instruments.

Please DO NOT under any circumstances, leave the

moorings without being familiar with the paragraphs

in this chapter of the OWNER’S MANUAL.

3) Main switches

The main switches for the l2—Volt electrical system

are located in a locker below the chart-table (Version

A) or inner steering position (Version B), see plate 1.

In Version A. two lockers are fitted below the chart

table. The switches are located in the locker to

starboard.

The switch-handles have to be pushed in and at the

same time turned clockwise to be placed in the ON-

position. The switch fitted low down on the control-

box is for emergency use only. It should not be

touched unless your starting battery fails to work

properly. The upper switch nearest to you is for the

ship’s service circuit. The other one is for the starting

battery only.

Plate l

Main Switches — both Versions

A) Starting Battery Main Switch

B) Diodes for Battery Charging Control

C) Ship’s Service Battery Main Switch

D) Fuse Box — Main Fuse Ship’s Service Circuit

E) Emergency Switch

F) Version B only: Propeller Lock Remote control

5

4) Fuse panel

The fuse panel is fitted in the same locker as the

main switches just above the switch-box. On some

of the boats you will find a small. black box fitted on

top or on the outer side of the switch-box with the

main-switches., When fitted, this black box

contains a main fuse for the ship's service circuit.

This main fuse is. however, a superfluous gadget, as

each and every one of the individual circuits of the

ship's service system is fitted with its own circuit

breaker.

The fuse panel as fitted in Version A is shown on

plate 2, and the panel in Version B is shown on plate

3. It appears that the fuse panel in Version A has

three switches fitted as well, namely, the main

switch for the refrigerator, the switch for the

navigation lights and the separate switch for the top-

light. All fuses and switches are plainly labelled in

English. A separate lamp is fitted in the locker. just

above the panel, inside the door. The lamp is lit by

sliding the glass sideways.

Plate 2

Fuse Panel, Version A

A) Fuse, Locker Light

B) First Boxes t

C) Switch — Refrigerator

D) Switch — Navigation Lights

E) Switch — Top Light (Steaming Light) F) Main Switch Box

Plate 3

Fuse Panel — Version B

A) Fuse Boxes

B) Fuse Locker Light

C) Main Switch Box

6

5) Switch panel

A separate switch panel is fitted in the Version B, on

the front panel of the inside steering position, to

starboard and just below the engine control box

(plate 4).

Here you find the switches for navigation lights and

top light, as well as for the deck flood-light fitted in

the mast to give light on the foredeck. Fitted here are

also the switch and dimmer for the control-panel

light, switches for the two windshield

wipers which are fitted on Version B, and the button

for the electric horn.

The main switch for the refrigerator is also fitted in

this panel. As Version B has electric, automatic bilge

pump and fresh water pressure system fitted, the

switches for

these gadgets are located in this central switch panel.

The main switch for the refrigerator is also located

here, and an additional switch is fitted for

operating the “buzzer” an acoustic alarm mounted in

the pedestal which will warn you immediately if one

of the control lamps in the instrument panel in the

dog-house is lit. As a matter of convenience this

buzzer can be switched off, but when under way,

steering from the cockpit steering position, make it a

rule to have the buzzer switched on.

Low down on the switch panel fitted in the Version

B, you will find the starting key for the engine.

Plate 4

Switch Panel - Version B only

A) Ash—Tray

B) Switch — Navigation Lights

C) Switch — Top Light (Steaming Light)

D) Switch — Riding Light (Anchor Light), Optional

E) Switch — Deck Flood Light

F) Switch — Electric Horn

G) Switch — Electric Bilge pump

H) Switch — Fresh Water Pressure System

I) Switch — Refrigerator

J) Switch — Instrument Panel Light

K) Switch — Acoustic Alarm f On/Off (Buzzer)

L) Dimmer — Instrument Panel Light

M) Switch — Windshield Wiper, Starboard

N) Switch — Windshield wiper, Centre

O) Starting Switch with Starting Key

7

Plate 5

Steering Position in Cockpit — Version A

A) Main Sheet Traveller and Adjustable End stops

B) Steering Wheel with Shaft Brake

C) Instrument Panel (Engine Instruments)

D) Engine Stop Control

E) Propeller Stop Control

F) Engine Throttle and Gear Control

Plate 6

Version A — Instrument Panel

A) Oil Pressure gauge - Engine Lubricating Oil

B) Coolant Temperature Gauge ’

C) Control Light — Charging

D) Starting Switch/Key

E) Tachometer

F) Switch — Instrument Panel Light

G) Oil Pressure Gauge — Gear Box

6) Steering positions instrumentation

Version A

Version A is, as standard, fitted with outside steering

position only (plate 5 and 6). The plates clearly show

the location of instruments and controls.

Dials are fitted for showing oil pressure on the gear

box and in the engine lubricating system respectively.

The pointers should not be allowed to drop below 85

lbs/sq.in. (60 kg/cm2) and below 30 lbs/sq.in. (2,1

kg/cm2) for the gearbox and engine oil respectively,

with the engine running at 3000 rpm.

In the cockpit coaming to starboard are fitted the push-

pull controls for the propeller locking device and the

engine stop .The upper one operates the engine stop,

and is to be pulled out to stop the engine. See that the

lever is pushed back to its inner position before you try

starting the engine again! The lower lever is for the

propeller lock, and this lever MUST be pulled out

before starting the engine and engaging the gear box.

8

The control box for the engine is fitted on the front

of the cockpit seat, just below the steering bridge. It

is conveniently situated for foot-operating, and is

away from all the ropes which have to be handled in

the cockpit. This control box is of the single lever

type (plate 7), and before starting and warming-up

can take place when lying at the mooring, the gear-

box (and the propeller) must be disengaged. This is

done simply by pulling out the knob below the

handle on the control box itself, and letting the knob

remain in this outer position (see plate). The knob

must be operated when the lever is in the neutral

position, i.e. near vertical. When the knob is in its

outer position, the lever can be operated without

engaging the propeller, and the engine can be run at

higher revolutions for warming-up. To re-engage the

shifting mechanism, move the lever back to neutral

position and push the knob back to its inner position.

If the Version A is fitted with an interior steering

position (which is optional, extra equipment), a

separate lever for changing between the outer and

inner steering wheel is fitted below the steering

bridge to port. When shifting from the one steering

position to the other, this lever must be pulled and

turned according to the label fitted. When engaging

the steering wheel at the new position, the wheel

must be turned slowly until the tiller snaps into

position. This is felt as a click in the wheel. The

new wheel is now in contact with the rudder, while

the other one is free to move without influence on

the steering.

If an interior steering position is fitted in the Version

A, only two control lights are mounted inside,

namely one light for engine coolant temperature and

one light for engine lubricating oil pressure. If

windshield wipers are fitted, switches for those are

of course included.

Version B

While the main steering position in Version A is

located in the cockpit, most of the instruments and

controls of the Version B are concentrated in the

dog-house, as the inside steering position is standard

arrangement in this version.

The instrument panel in the dog-house has control

lights fitted for oil pressure on engine and gearbox,

for high engine coolant temperature and for

insufficient charging of the batteries (plate 8). As

these

Plate 7

Disengaging Gear Control — Cockpit Control Box

Plate 8

Main Steering Position. Version B — Dog-House

A) Vent Valve. Hydraulic Steering

B) Tachometer

C) Control Light — Coolant Temperature

D) Control Light — Engine Oil Pressure

E) Fuel Gauge

F) Control Light — Gear Oil Pressure

G) Control Light — Charging H) Engine Throttle and Gear Control

I) Engine Stop Control

9

lights are lacking at the steering position in the

cockpit (plate 9), a buzzer is fitted in the steering

pedestal (see paragraph 3.5) to give an acoustic

warning if anything should go wrong.

The engine control in the dog-house is still of the

single lever type, but at present is top-mounted and

thus of a different type than mentioned earlier. To

disengage the gear control of this control box, the

lever has to be pulled sideways at the hub when

in neutral position (plate 10), and then pushed

forward. To re-engage the shift mechanism, just

move the lever back to neutral position, and it snaps

into the original engagement.

The engine stop is located on the right hand side of

the control box. Pull for stopping the engine, and do

not forget to push it back again before re-starting.

The propeller stop in the Version B is fitted in the

locker for fuse panel and main switches. (It is shown

on plate 1). When pushed down, the propeller shaft

is locked (the two-bladed propeller in vertical

position for minimum resistance when

under sail). and this handle MUST be pulled out

before the engine is started and the gearbox is

engaged!

On top of the steering pedestal in the cockpit, only

two push-buttons are fitted: One for operating the

electrical horn, and one for engine starting (plate 8).

As hydraulic steering gear is fitted in Version B, no

manipulating is needed for changing

from the one steering wheel to the other when

changing steering positions. Because of the locking

valves incorporated in the hydraulic system, both

steering wheels are engaged simultaneously,

although the one not in use will not be moving.

Both Versions

A fuel tank gauge and engine revolution counter are

fitted in the main control panels of both versions.

The engine fitted is derated at the factory to its work-

boat rating, which means that it can be driven at top

R.P.M. (3000) continuously Without

causing trouble. At 3000 R.P.M. the engine develops

37 shaft horse power. However, as the FJORD MS

33 is given a true heavy displacement hull

configuration, maximum hull speed in smooth water

is obtained at far less engine speed than 3000 R.P.M.

Pushing the throttles wide open does nothing but

generate a lot of waves and an unpleasant wake, as

well as more than necessary engine noise, and it is

our opinion that nothing more than, say, 2000

R.P.M. is needed for normal cruising. The marginal,

obtainable power may, however, be of great

importance from a safety point of view, if heavy

weather has to be fought head on.

Plate 9

Steering Position in Cockpit — Version B

A) Electric Horn Switch

B) Engine Starting Switch

C) Oil filler Cap — Hydraulic Steering

D) Engine Throttle and Gear Control

Plate 10 .

Disengaging Gear Control — Main Steering Position,

Version B

10

Tremendous air resistance is, under such

circumstances, generated by the rig, and the

excessive engine power transmitted through the 3:1-

ratio gear-box to the big, 22 inches diameter

propeller, will be felt as a real must in a blow.

When starting a cold engine, the quickest response is

obtained if the throttle is opened when engaging the

starter, but remember to DISENGAGE THE GEAR

CONTROL! The starter motor is activated simply by

turning the starting key the second notch

in a clockwise direction when pushing down. When

the engine starts, release the key. It will then turn

back to the ”notch one” position, where it should be

kept until the engine is stopped. Then switch off the

control panel by turning the key back to neutral

position. All control lights will then be out.

Please note that the gear lever control must be put in

neutral position before the engine is shut down.

During the warming-up period, let the engine run at,

say, 1500.R.P.M. to reach working temperature as

quickly as possible.

7) Checking engine oil level

To gain access to the oil dipstick and the oil filler

cap of the engine, the forward hatch in the dog—

house

sole has to be lifted (plate 11).

Oil level must be within the two marks on the stick.

When topping up, note that the difference between

the upper and the lower mark on the dip-stick

amounts for approximately 1,0 litre (l,75 imp. Pints).

If you are travelling over long distances with engine

alone, and your engine is used more than 12 hours

continuously at a time, the oil level should be

checked

every 12 hours. For such routine checking, let the

engine idle for approximately 2 minutes. Then shut

down the engine, and read the dip-stick.

Plate 11

Checking Engine Oil Sump Level

A) Coolant Filler Cap

B) Oil Dip Stick

C) Lubricating Oil Filler Cap

11

8) Checking for bilge water

Both Versions have a high capacity diagram bilge

pump fitted in the cockpit coaming to port (plate 12)

In addition to this, an automatic, electrically

operated bilge pump is fitted in the Version B, to

starboard in the engine room (plate 13). All bilge

water is drained from the hul1’s deepest point just

abaft the engine compartment. When lifting the

hatch for checking engine oil level, make it a rule to

have a look into the bilges, and see that they are free

from any water. (Be aware of the fact that it is

necessary for proper functioning of the propeller

shaft stuffing box that the gland is lubricated by

small amounts of water. Consequently, some water

must always be allowed to drip into the hull through

the stuffing box.)

Pumping a few strokes with the manual pump in the

cockpit will empty the bilges quickly.

In the Version B a shower is fitted in the toilet

compartment. This shower drains directly to the

bilges. As a consequence of this arrangement the

automatic bilge pump is mounted. The automatic

switch of this pump will, however, not activate the

pump until a certain amount of water is present. If

the automatic switch fails to work, this pump can

also be activated by switching ON the bilge pump

switch in the switch panel (paragraph 3.5).

If more water than what is to be expected from the

stern gland and the shower collects in the bilges,

pump dry and check for leakages immediately.

(See chapter 4, paragraph 2 e).

Plate 12

Manual Bilge Pump in Cockpit Coaming

Plate 13

Automatic, Electric Bilge Pump — Version B only

A) Pump housing

12

9) Fire extinguishers

Two manually operated fire extinguishers are fitted

in both versions, however, located in slightly

different positions.

In Version A, one extinguisher is fitted in the oilskin

locker to starboard in the dog-house, and one

extinguisher is fitted on the bulkhead in the big

hanging locker adjacent to the toilet room (plate 14

and 15).

Plate 14

Location of Fire Extinguisher Aft — Version A

Plate 15

Location of Fire Extinguisher Forward — Version A

13

Plate 16

Location of Fire Extinguisher Aft — Version B

In Version B the aft extinguisher is fitted on the

chart—table sidewall in the dog-house, just adjacent

to the ladder leading down from the cockpit (plate

16), while the secondary extinguisher is fitted on the

side-panel of the forward, athwartship settee

of the dinette, facing port (plate l7).

The extinguishers are of the powder—type, the one

in the dog-house of 1,0 kg. capacity and the for-

ward one of 2,0 kg. capacity. The operating

instructions printed on the extinguisher itself should

be read carefully.

Plate 17

Location of Fire Extinguisher Forward — Version B

14

10) Operating the marine toilet

The manually operated marine toilet, fitted as

standard, discharges overboard. Complete operating

and maintenance instructions are delivered together

with this MANUAL.

The following brief instructions should, however, be

read before use:

A) Before use see that the seacocks for both intake

and discharge lines (the gate valves on the through-

hull fittings) are open. The seacock for the intake

line is located below the sole in the forecabin (plate

18), and the carpet has to be removed to gain access

to the hatch. The sea-cock for the discharge line is

located below the head’s socket in Version A (plate

19), and just behind the head (close to the aft

bulkhead of the toilet room) in Version B (plate 20).

B) Just before using the toilet, open the supply valve

this is done by raising the lever on the side of the

pump cylinder — and pump some water into the

bowl to make it wet.

C) After use: Pump slowly with the supply valve in

its open position, and continue to pump five or six

extra strokes after the bowl is clean to thoroughly

clear the discharge line of all refuse. Then close the

supply valve and pump until the bowl is completely

empty.

NOTE:

The head in the FJORD MS 33 is mounted BELOW

the waterline level. Consequently, unless the supply

valve is completely closed, the bowl will

fill with water and overflow. Thus, whenever you are

sailing, whenever there are rough seas, and

whenever you are leaving the boat overnight, we

strongly advise you to close the seacocks and pump

the bowl completely dry to prevent splashing.

11) Operating the stove

As standard equipment in the galley, you will find a

gimballed two-burner alcohol-stove with pressure

tank incorporated.

Plate 18

Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Water Intake

Plate 19

Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Discharge Line —

Version A

Plate 20

Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Discharge Line —

Version B

15

To light the burner, pump approximately ten strokes

to build up pressure in the tank (see that the filler cap

is tightened thoroughly). Then open the needle valve

in the burner by turning the wheel slightly counter-

clockwise. Shut the valve immediately

when the small cup below the burner is filled with

alcohol. Light the alcohol in the cup with a match or

the like, and let this small amount of burning alcohol

take care of the warming up of the burner. When

most of the alcohol in the cup has disappeared, open

the burner’s valve again, and the stove will burn with

a clear, blue flame.

To shut off the stove, just turn the wheel clockwise

until it stops. The fuel valve is then closed.

When refilling the pressure tank. open the filler cap

slowly to carefully let out the pressurized air before

the cap is unscrewed completely.

Complete operating and maintenance

instructions are delivered together with this

MANUAL (see separate leaflet).

12) Operating the refrigerator

A 42 litre (1,5 cu.ft.) refrigerator is fitted in the

galley of Version A, and an 85 litre (3,0 cu.ft.)

refrigerator is fitted in Version B. The refrigerators

are both electric and powered from the ship’s

service-battery. The main switch for the refrigerator

is

fitted in the fuse-panel locker in Version A, and in

the switch panel in Version B (see paragraph 3.4 and

3.5).

Thanks to the efficient compressor, the refrigerators

have a very reasonable power consumption.

However, if we calculate with moderate 1,5 and 2,5

amperes current consumption per hour for the 42

litre and the 85 litre refrigerator respectively (which

are quite reasonable figures anticipating normal use),

the total capacity of the service battery will do for no

more than 60 hours and 36 hours for the two

versions respectively, (battery capacity is 90 Ah See

paragraph 4.3.b), if we assume that no battery

charging is taking place.

We must, however, consider that the battery is not

only supplying the refrigerator, and, consequently,

we would like to advise you to be careful with the

electric power consumption. When the boat is

unattended, switch off the refrigerator and take

ashore the contents. When lying at anchor for any

time. with the refrigerator continuously operating,

take the trouble to start the engine at least once a day

and let it run for an hour or so to have the battery

topped up.

The thermostat knob of the refrigerator is located on

the inside back-wall, and the temperature-setting is

easily adjusted.

As with all refrigerators, these also need periodic

defrosting. Beware of ice on the condenser (the

refrigerant harness), which reduces the efficiency.

Always use the safety lock on the door to avoid

trouble when sailing or motoring in a seaway.

13) Operating the ventilator

(Version B only)

In the Version B, where the galley is located

downstairs in the saloon, an electric ventilator is fitted

above the stove. The ventilator is of the two-speed,

reversible type, and the switch can be set in two

positions for intake and two positions for outtake.

The air vent is covered by a fine, non-corroding mesh

which acts as a combined insect guard and seal against

penetrating water.

For activating: Just turn the switch fitted on the

bulkhead in the galley.

14) Navigation Lights

Only internationally approved navigation lights are

fitted. Certificates for each lantern are delivered along

with this MANUAL.

The switches for navigation lights AND top light are

fitted in the fuse panel locker in

Version A and in the switch panel in Version B (see

paragraph 3.4 and 3.5).

According to the international rules to avoid collision

at sea, ONLY the navigation lights (the red and green

side lights fitted in the pulpit and the white light facing

aft, fitted in the ”pushpit”) shall be lit. When the

engine is started and the boat is handled as a motor

boat, the top light (steaming light) shall be switched on

as well (the top light is fitted in the mast), and the jib

should be lowered to ensure visibility of the top

light.

Make it a routine to always check, by eye, that the

navigation lights are functioning after switching on in

the evening.

Replacement of defective bulbs is done by turning the

base of the bulb socket one notch to the left

16

(plate 21), and the complete socket can be taken out

of the housing. The bulb is fixed -in position by a

bayonette socket. Push the bulb down into the

socket and turn counter-clockwise to dismount.

Replace defective bulb. (For bulb specification: See

paragraph 7.4).

The importance of having the navigation

lights in perfect order can not be

overemphasized.

15) Handling the boat with engine

The FJORD MS 33 is a heavy displacement boat,

and she behaves like one. This implies that one has

to take into account her heavy weight and great mass

of inertia when manoeuvring. Although she is given

a big, slow-revving propeller, she will

not accelerate and decelerate in the same manner as

a light-weight, planing speed-boat.

Therefore, whenever manoeuvring in a harbour or in

close quarters, SLOW DOWN! Pushing the throttle

momentarily while moving at slow speeds will give

you the necessary effect of the propeller jet striking

the rudder to make steering easy and

accurate, without the troublesome result of

increasing your speed out of control.

When going forward, looking from astern, your

propeller turns clockwise (right-hand propeller).

Consequently, when going astern, your propeller

turns counter-clockwise. As the water pressure

increases with depth, the revolving of the propeller

will generate a sideforce from the water, trying to

push the stern to starboard when going forward and

to port when going astern. This sideforce is hardly

felt when going forward but, when going astern,

however, it can upset a well-planned manoeuvre if

not taken into consideration. Because of the steering

effect of the propeller, you will find it easier to take

your port side along the quay under normal

conditions, in that the

stern will swing sideways to port when reversing for

stopping. When going astern, you will occasionally

find it difficult to have the stern turned to starboard,

although giving full starboard rudder. To get control,

after having obtained some speed astern, put the

throttle lever back in neutral and give the rudder a

chance to operate without

the disturbing effect of the propeller. As soon as you

get response and the stern starts to swing in the right

direction, the propeller can be reengaged.

Plate 21

Navigation Light — Changing Defective Bulb

The heavy displacement, double-ender hull

configuration of the FJORD 33 is developed to give

out-standing seaworthiness and seakindliness. It is,

however, a well-accepted fact that a really seaworthy

and seakindly vessel will be

susceptible to heavy rolling in a severe seaway (just

look at the fishing vessel, rescue vessels, whale

catchers and the like) when under engine power alone.

In this condition we would like to stress the great

value of the small, easily handled mainsail of the

17

FJORD MS 33 as a steadying and stabilizing sail in a

seaway. Whenever a breeze is blowing, and

whenever a sea is running, your main should be

hoisted unless you are in really restricted waters.

You may reef it down as much as you would like,

but the presence of some cloth on your spars will

always have a remarkable effect on your comfort, in

that rolling will be drastically reduced. (Of course,

should you be hit by a hurricane your bare poles

would do for the stabilizing, and all sails should be

left under deck. This would be, however, extreme

conditions.)

We would also like to stress the value of MOTOR-

SAILING, which ought to be practiced whenever

you are in a hurry with the wind abeam or ahead.

Unless you already are sailing at maximum hull

speed, the combined use of both engine and sails

may be most beneficial. Normally only moderate

power from your propeller will increase the speed of

the hull through the water. This again will increase

the relative wind speed striking the sails, which

results in more power from the sails! Thus,

a small, additional push from the propeller may

result in a relatively large increase in boat speed

which might be worthwhile. Motorsailing can be

most comfortable way to transport oneself from

point A to point B, and is much to recommend when

time is a limiting factor.

We recommend, of course, that due attention be paid

to the checking list (paragraph 3.2) before any

motoring is initiated.

16) Handling the boat with sails

Unless you are a very experienced yachtsman

familiar with handling sails and sailing yachts,

always make use of your engine alone when going to

and from the quay or your mooring. When out of the

harbour, head up into the wind moving ahead at slow

speed, and hoist your main-sail. Give off the

downhaul at the goose-neck, hoist the main until the

headboard is just at the black band in the mast-top,

have the winch locked (if a reel winch or have the

halliard fixed to the cleat (if drum-winch) before

setting the down-haul.

The engine can be shut down as soon as your main

pulls but, as the boat is perfectly balanced first when

you also have added a foresail, you will not get the

proper response to your rudder unless a jib or Genoa

is up on the headstay.

When returning to your mooring, let the foresail

down and start the engine while still in open water.

If any breeze is blowing, head up into the wind before

lowering the main. Have the main bent to the boom

and all other sails stowed below before you pick up

your mooring.

A clean deck is a must for proper manoeuvring.

17) Safety at sea

Never forget the safety precautions! Whenever you are

going offshore for any duration, be sure you have your

emergency equipment on board! Tools, rope, flares,

lifebuoys, anchors, the first aid kit etc. should all have

their fixed location on board.

It is, however, at least as important that the personal

effects like life belts and safety harnesses are aboard

for all of the crew.

In this connection, it may be worth mentioning that the

lifelines of the FJORD MS 33 are tightened by means

of rope instead of by means of bottle-screws. This is a

consequence of the accepted safety rules for offshore

racing, which are based on experience gained the hard

way. Lives have been lost at sea in that an exhausted

crew

were unable to haul aboard a man lost overboard

because of the high lifelines! The rope at the ends of

the wires can easily be cut with a knife, and the

lifelines are slackened off to deck level.

Because safety and ruggedness have been keywords as

far as the development of the FJORD MS 33 is

concerned, we want you to pay attention to what we

are stressing in the following:

If you are planning to cross big oceans with your

FJORD MS 33, and you are expecting really rough

going, it may be necessary to provide special

arrangements to protect the dog-house against the

damaging forces of the green seas. We recommend

that detachable wire straps be fitted at each of the four

corners of the dog-house-top to

make it possible to tie down the dog-house to the

decks. We recommend that heavy gauge aluminium or

plywood panels be stowed onboard, which can be

fitted to protect the windows from the outside

(deadlights).

We also recommend that a high (up to seat-level),

heavily constructed bridge or threshold be provided in

the cockpit where the companionway leads down to

the dog-house to protect the teak doors if pooped by a

following sea, and we recommend a bar be provided

on the inside of the dog-house doors to keep the doors

closed if a pooping sea should strike.

With these modifications carried out, you should be

well prepared for a round the world cruise in a safe,

sturdy and seaworthy vessel.

18

Description of the Systems 4

19

Plate 22

Arrangement – Engine Compartment

A) Fuel Sedimenter

B) Fresh Water Pressure Pump Unit

C) Engine Coolant Filler Cap

D) Engine Lubricating Oil Filler Cap

E) Engine Oil Dip Stick

F) Battery Case – Ship’s Service Battery to Port

G) Oil Filler Caps Gear Box

H) Through-Hull Fitting - Engine Raw Water

Intake

I) Propeller Locking Device

J) Connecting Boxes and Relays - Engine’s

Electrical System

K) Exhaust Outlet entering Water Jacket

Plate 23

Stern Tube Stuffing Box and Propeller Lock

A) Through-Hull Fittings - Engine Raw Water

Intake

B) Raw Water Outlet Hawse (To Water Jacket)

C) Stern Tube Stuffing Box

D) Propeller Shaft Looking Device

20

Plate 24

Stern Bearing and Propeller

A) Intake Scoop - Water to Water lubricated

Stern

Bearing

B) Bottom End of Rudder Stock with Bearing

1) Engine and propulsion system

a) General

As standard, the FJORD MS 33 is fitted with a

PERKINS engine of the type 4.108 (earlier type

4.107), with the governor adjusted to give an engine

output power of 37 shaft horsepower at 3000

revolutions per minute. (When rated to give maxi-

mum power for intermittent work, the figures is 47

S.H.P. at 3600 R.P.M. for the same engine) The 37

SHP-rating is a heavy duty workboat rating, which

implies that the engine can be run at 3000

R.P.M. continuously - for days.

The engine drives through a TMP hydraulic gearbox

of gear ratio 3 : 1, which indicates that maximum

propeller revolutions are as low as 1000 R.P.M. The

gearbox changes the direction of rotation, and

although the engine is turning counter-clockwise

when looking from the stern, the propeller is turning

clockwise when going ahead.

Instructions for how to operate the engine are given

in paragraph 3.6.

The engine is flexibly mounted on rubber vibration

dampers to reduce the structure-transmitted noise to

a minimum, and the 1 1/2” diameter stainless steel

propeller shaft is led through the stern in a flexible

stuffing box and bearing.

Plate 22 shows the engine compartment below the

dog-house sole, with both hatches removed. Although

the space is not excessive, all vital details are easily

accessible for service and maintenance.

b) Stern tube

The stuffing box fitted to the stern tube is a standard

MQRSE flexible stuffing box connected to the tube

itself by a heavy duty rubber hose. The stuffmg box is

shown in plate 23.

It must be noted that the packing, which is forced

against the shaft by the beveled gland of the adjusting

nut to keep water from penetrating, is itself water

lubricated. Consequently, small

amounts of water must be allowed to occasionally drip

into the hull, and the nut MUST NOT be over

tightened in an attempt to avoid this leakage.

When tightening the nut, turn clockwise until it

becomes stiff, then slacken again by turning counter-

clockwise one turn, and lock the nut by

means of the looking pin.

The stern bearing is fitted outside the stern. A water

lubricated rubber bearing (cutless bearing) is provided,

ensuring trouble-free use for years.

(Plate 24).

21

The hose clamps in the stuffing box should be

examined whenever the engine is checked, i.e., for

the first time after 25 to 50 hours running and then at

every 150 hours or 3 month intervals. The rubber

hose itself must be checked every year, and, if

becoming brittle, it must be replaced immediately by

a new, oil resistant hose (contact your FJ ORD

dealer).

Whenever the boat is hauled out of the water, the

propeller shaft should be checked for shells and the

like which might tear the rubber in the bearing,

and the two water inlets (scoops) in front of the

bronze casting of the stern bearing should be cleaned

to ensure free water flow.

c) Propeller and shaft end

The propeller fitted is designed specially for use on

sailing auxiliaries. It is two-bladed with narrow

blades to give minimum resistance under sail when

locked in a vertical position.

The propeller shaft end and the propeller bore are

machined according to S.A.E. standard

specifications.

d) Propeller locking device

The gearbox needs oil pressure to be adequately

lubricated. Consequently, if the propeller is trailing

(rotating free in the water flow) when under sail with

the engine shut down, lack of lubricating oil supply

to the bearings in the gearbox may destroy gears,

shaft and bearings. Thus the propeller lock is

provided, ensuring that the propeller

is not free-wheeling as well as that the propeller is

kept in vertical position for minimum resistance.

Operating the propeller lock is described in

paragraph 3.6.

The propeller lock mechanism is shown in plate 23.

A pin is fitted to the flange of the gear box output

shaft, and a spring-loaded clamp is pivoted to catch

the pin and prevent the shaft from turning.

The pivoting of the clamp is controlled by use of the

handles described in paragraph 3.6.

The spring tension of the clamp is adjusted to avoid

serious damage if one should happen to forget to

disengage the propeller lock before engine power is

turned on. Nasty rattling will tell you if this is

happening. However, you may experience that the

lock-spring is to weak to stand the great moment of

inertia of the propeller when locking

the propeller at high boat speeds. If heavy clicks are

heard from the locking mechanism, head into the wind

to slow down the boat for a moment

until the propeller has stopped revving. Then bear off

to the actual course.

Plate 25

Engine - Port Side View

A) Injection _Pump Vent Valve

22

Plate 26

Engine - Starboard Side View

A) Reduction Gear Oil Level Plug

B) Reduction Gear Oil Filler Plug

C) Reverse Gear Oil Dip Stick and Filler Cap

D) Manual Fuel Feed Pump Level

e) Bleeding the fuel system

Avoid running out of fuel! If - on a diesel engine -

air is trapped in the fuel line, the engine refuses to

work. This is a consequence of the fuel injection

system. If, however, air has been enclosed in the

fuel line, either as a result of running out of fuel or

after any part of the system between the

fuel tank and the fuel injection pump has been

disconnected, the fuel system will have to be bled.

Usually the fuel system on the PERKINS 4.108 V

(and 4.107) is very easily bled (see plate 25 and 26).

Slacken the vent valve fitted on the hydraulic head

looking screw on the injection pump on the port side

of the engine (plate 25). Then operate the lever on

the fuel pump fitted on the engine’s starboard side

(plate 26) until fuel, free from air bubbles and foam,

issues from the venting screw.

(If it is not possible to move the feed pump lever, the

camshaft driving the lift pump lever may be on

maximum lift. If so, turn the engine one revolution

by using the electric starter momentarily.)

Then tighten the venting screw, and the engine

is ready for starting. Disengage the gear control

(see paragraph 3.6), push the speed control lever to

maximum speed position, and engage the starter by

turning the starting key.

If the engine does not start at this occasion, a more

comprehensive bleeding procedure has to be carried

out, as described in the “Handbook for the Perkins

Marine Diesel Engines” (delivered together with the

MANUAL) in the chapter “Bleeding the Fuel

System.”

f) Periodic attentions

The (enclosed) “Handbook for the Perkins Marine

Diesel Engines” specifies the periodic checks for the

maintenance of the engines. The handbook indicates

that, besides frequent checking of engine sump oil

level as described in paragraph 3.7 of this manual, the

coolant level and gearbox oil level should also be

checked daily if the engine is running continuously.

The filler cap for the engine coolant is visible on plate

22. To open: Push down and turn counter-clockwise.

Be careful if the cap has to be opened

when the engine is warm or hot, as the cooling system

is then under pressure. Turn the cap slowly: The level

of the coolant should be just a little below the neck of

the filler pipe.

The TMP gear box with reduction gear is divided into

two compartments: the forward one containing the

reversing gear, and the aft compartment housing the

reduction gear. The oil level on the

reversing gear box is checked by means of the dip

stick on the starboard side of the casing, while the oil

level on the reduction gear box is checked by means of

the oil level plug low down on the casing, on the

starboard side. The oil filler cap for the revers-

23

ing gearbox is identical with the nut on the top of the

dip stick pipe, while the filler plug on the reduction

gearbox is located on the starboard side, of the

gearbox, and is visible on plate 26.

If the dip stick of the gear box is read after the

engine has been stationary for more than 20 minutes,

oil level should be to the mark on the stick.

If, however, the dip stick is read immediately after

the engine has been shut down, there is sufficient oil

in the gearbox as long as oil is showing between the

mark and bottom end of the dipstick rod. If oil does

not show in the rod, top up until bottom of rod is

touched.

Oil level on the reduction gear box should be just up

to the hole drilled for the level plug. Do not forget to

replace the plug; screwing it tightly home before

restarting engine after checking oil level.

Unfortunately the level plug on the reduction gear

box casing is quite inconveniently situated. It may be

accepted, however, that the oil level on the reduction

gear box is checked only once a week.

For oil specifications, see chapter 7.

Besides the daily checking for oil and water,

periodic service has to be carried out of every 150

and 400 hours running (or every 3 and l2 months

running, respectively, whichever occurs first), as

specified in the engine Handbook.

When the “every 150 hours” (or “every 3 months”)

service is carried out, at the same time the following

should be checked:

1) The bolts and nuts on the flexible engine

mountings.

2) The bolts and nuts on the propeller shaft flanges.

3) The hose clamps on the stern tube hoses.

These three items should also be checked during the

post delivery check over after the first 25/50hours in

service.

g) Shaft alignment

Although the stern tube stuffing box and the stern

bearing do allow for some flexing in the shaft, it is of

the utmost importance for trouble free service that

the propeller shaft is exactly in line with the engine.

The delivery control to be carried out by the FJORD

representative includes aligning of the engine after

the boat has been launched. In addition to this control,

a new alignment should be undertaken as part of the

post delivery check over, when the boat has been in

service for 25/50 hours.

After winter lay-up ashore, over-land transportation

and the like, the alignment of the engine should be

repeated after the boat has been launched again.

2) Plumbing

a) Fuel system .

Diagram 1 shows the positioning of the fuel tank and

the fuel lines. One fuel tank is fitted, located below the

cabin sole. (Note: On boats built before 1973 two fuel

tanks are provided; fitted below the stowing

compartment under the cockpit

seats. The tank-tops are then accessible trough the

bottom-plates of the stowing compartments.)

The tank-top is accessible through a hatch in the cabin

sole, just in front of the forward engine compartment

bulkhead (remove the carpet).

The filler cap is fitted on the side deck to port, and the

tank is ventilated high above deck level to avoid diesel

oil being spilled on deck while heeling close hauled.

When fuelling, whether with gasoline or diesel fuel,

due attention must be paid to the following

precautions:

1) Be sure there are no loose fittings and/or leakage in the

fuel tank, fill pipe, vent pipes and the fuel lines.

2) Do not fuel at night except under well lit conditions.

3) Do not smoke, strike matches etc.

4) Stop engine(s), motors, fans and devices liable to produce

sparks.

5) Put out all lights and galley fires.

6) See that the boat is moored securely.

7) Close all ports, windows, doors and hatches.

8) Ascertain as accurately as possible how much additional

fuel the tank will hold.

9) Keep the nozzle of hose or can in contact with the filler

pipe to guard against possible sparks from static electricity

generated.

10) See that no fuel spills get into the hull or

bilges.

11) After fuelling, see that the filler cap is

thoroughly secured and closed.

12) Wipe up all spilled fuel.

13) Open all ports, windows, doors and hatches.

14) Let the boat ventilate for at least 5 minutes.

15) See that there is no trace of fuel in the engine room or

below decks before starting engines or using bare flame.

24

Plate 27 -

Top of Fuel Tank

A) Fuel Valve

B) Fuel Filler Pipe

C) Fuel Return Line (from Engine)

D) Fuel Gauge Sensor

E) Inspection Hatch

Plate 27 shows the top of the fuel tank accessible

through the cabin sole, with inspection hatch, pipe-

connections and the fuel valve. The inspection hatch

provides access to the inside of the tank when

removed by unscrewing the flange-bolts.

The fuel valve is open when the handle is turned

parallel with the piping.

(On boats built before 1973, in which two fuel tanks

are fitted, the fuel valves are located below the cockpit

sole in the stowing compartment just behind the aft

engine compartment bulkhead. The valves are

accessible through the opening in the

bulkhead behind the ladder leading from the

cockpit to the dog-house.)

The fuel tank is welded of heavy gauge seawater-

resistant aluminium alloy. To avoid galvanic effects

and corrosion of the aluminium, always keep the tank

top clean and never let metal parts, foreign to

aluminium, rest on it for any length of time.

A water-separating sedimenter is fitted on the fuel line

in the engine room, located on the forward bulkhead

just in front of the engine (plate 28). The

Plate 28

Fuel Sedimenter (Filter)

25

sedimenter is designed to trap the larger, solid

particles and water droplets which might be present

in the fuel. The accumulated water and sediment can

be seen through the transparent bowl and may be

drained off periodically by either removing the bowl

from the sedimenter top or by unscrewing the drain

plug in the base, providing such plug is fitted (two

alternative sedimenters have been fitted in the

FJORD MS 33). Do not forget to bleed the fuel

system after having drained the sedimenterl

b) Water cooling system

The engine is fitted with an indirect cooling system.

This system incorporates a heat exchanger, fresh

water as heat transporting medium in a closed

circuit and raw water as the cooling medium. The

raw water intake with through-hull fitting and sea-

cock (gatevalve) is located in the engine room, just

to starboard of the gear box (plate 23).

Serious clogging of the cooling water intakes will

lead to overheating of the engine. If this happens,

temperature rise is shown by the instruments. On

version B the buzzer will give an accoustic warning

as well.

Without doubt, shells, barnacles. seaweed etc. in and

outside the cooling water intake my lead to restric-

ted water flow to the piping. We therefore recom-

mend that the water intake be thoroughly checked

and cleaned whenever the boat is hauled ashore

for periodical servicing.

We also strongly recommend that hoses and hose-

connections (with hose clamps) of the cooling

water system be thoroughly inspected during the

service to be carried out for every 150 hours (or

3 months) of engine operation. Inspection of the

same items should take place during the postde-

livery checkover (after 25/50 hours in service)

as well. Brittle hoses must instantly be replaced.

The raw water is discharged through the water

jacket fitted to the exhaust piping (asbestos insu-

lated, uncooled exhaust piping on boats built before

1973) to a water injection pipe injecting the water

directly into the exhaust flow down the exhaust-

bend in the stern. This arrangement has a remark-

able effect in reducing exhaust outlet noise level.

c) Bilge water system

A brief description of the bilge water system is

given in paragraph 3.8 (plates 11 and 12).

We recommend that all hose clamps, hoses and

connections as well as the pump(s) and the switch

of the automatic draining device fitted in Version B

be thoroughly inspected during the service to be

Plate 29

Dismantling the Manual Bilge Pump

Rubber Diaphragm is loosened by unscrewing the

Hawse-Clamp Screw A

26

Plate 30

Fresh Water Pressure Pump Unit

Diagram 2 A

Fresh Water System - Version A

Diagram 2 B

Fresh Water System - Version B

carried out every 150 hours (3 months) of engine

operation. Brittle hoses must be replaced.

Although space is restricted, the diaphragm

pump fitted in the cockpit coaming should be

disconnected for inspection (plate 29).

d) Fresh water and sanitary system

Two fresh water tanks are fitted, located on each side

of the cockpit, below the bottom-plates in the stowing

ompartment below cockpit seats. Just abaft the aft

engine room bulkhead. (In boats built before 1973, a

single fresh water tank is fitted below the cabin sole.)

The fresh water tanks are connected with a “T”-joint

before the hose-line is led to the manual pumps in

Version A and to the water pressure pump system of

Version B. Diagrams 2 A and B show the systems

fitted in Version A and Version B respectively.

Only one filler cap is provided for the two fresh water

tanks. The cap is fitted in the side deck to starboard,

just adjacent to the cockpit. The word WATER is

engraved on the fitting itself, and the filler pipe for

water MUST NOT BE MIS-

TAKEN FOR THE FUEL FILLER PIPE fitted farther

forward to PORT.

When topping up the water tanks, the gate valve fitted

to the hose connecting the two tanks must be opened

to let water from the starboard flow across and into the

port tank. This gate valve is accessible through the

opening in the bulkhead

behind the ladder leading from the cockpit to the dog-

house, where the wheel of the valve protrudes through

the bottom plate of the stowing compartment close to

the bulkhead. Usually this valve is fitted to port, but on

some of the Version A-boats, you will find this valve

to starboard in the stowing compartment. Whenever

you are sailing in heavy

weather, with large angles of heel, see that this gate

valve is closed to avoid water flowing from the wind-

ward tank high up and down to the leeward tank,

with valuable fresh water being lost through the

leeward tank’s ventilating pipe as result.

The fresh water tanks are Ventilated to the hollow

cockpit coamings (forward end each side) to avoid

salt water entering when spray is flying in rough

weather.

An inspection hatch is provided on top of each of

the fresh water tanks, and these hatches have to

be removed for cleaning the tanks.

As mentioned in paragraph 4.2 a, since the fresh

water tanks as well as the fuel tank are welded of

heavy gauge, sea-water resistant, aluminium alloy,

the tank plating should be kept as clean as possible to

avoid any galvanic effects and corrosion of

the alloy.

27

As mentioned earlier, a water pressure system is

fitted in Version B. The complete pressure

assembly, consisting of the electrical pump, a small

pressure tank and electronic devices, is fitted in

the engine compartment to port, near the forward

bulkhead (see Diagram 2 B and plate 30). The

main switch for the water pressure system is fitted

in the switchpanel (paragraph 3.5).

From the water pressure unit the piping leads

directly to the taps in the galley and toilet room.

The pump unit works automatically in that it starts

functioning as soon as the pressure in the system

drops below a preset value. Thus, as soon as a tap

is opened and water evacuates, the pressure drops

and the pump is activated.

This working principle for the water pressure

system means that any small leakage which might

occur, will easily and immediately be detected. The

leakage will cause a continuous pressure drop in the

system, which again will activate the electric pump.

The pump will start and stop regularly with a fre-

quency dependent on the quantity of water lost,

and the pump is, fortunately, not completely

noiseless.

On some of the fresh water pumps fitted, a small,

red starting button is provided on the pump casing.

As the automatic switch of the pump refuses to work

unless a minimum pressure exists in the system,

the starting button has to be depressed for starting

whenever the fresh water tank has been com-

pletely drained and the pressure in the system has

dropped to zero. As soon as pressure has been

built up in the system, the starting button can be

released, and the automatic switch takes over. This

arrangement is provided to avoid the pump to run

dry.

In Version A, manually operated fresh water

pumps are fitted in the galley and toilet room.

Sanitation:

Operating instructions for the head are given in

paragraph 3.10. As a supplement to these

instructions, a comprehensive installation and main-

tenance instructions leaflet is delivered together

with the head and is enclosed with this MANUAL.

We recommend that all hose clamps, hoses and

connections, as well as the pumps and the electrical

devices of the pressure unit in Version B, be

thoroughly inspected during the periodic servicing

to be carried out every 150 hours (or 3 months)

of engine running. Brittle hoses must be replaced,

and any leakage which might occur, must be

repaired.

Plate 31

Through-Hull Fitting, Cockpit Drainage A) Gate Valve on Connecting Line between Fresh

Water Tanks

B) Hawse from Cockpit Scupper (Port) to

Through-Hull Fitting

C) Through-Hull Fitting with Gate Valve

28

e) Cockpit drainage and deck scuppers

The scuppers providing drainage of the decks

are connected to the drain pipes discharging water

from the self-draining cockpit. Water which might

enter the stowing rooms in the cockpit coamings,

is drained to the cockpit itself.

Water outlets are provided in each of the two

forward corners of the cockpit, and big-section

hoses are led vertically down from the water out-

lets to through-hull fittings. These hoses are visible

through the opening in the bulkhead behind the

ladder leading from the cockpit to the dog-house,

and the gate valves of the through-hull fittings

are accessible through the bottom plates of the

stowing compartment. (plate 31).

f) Exhaust outlet

To avoid water entering the exhaust system when

sailing in heavy water, a gate valve is provided

in connection with the through-hull fitting for

the exhaust pipe in the stern.

The gate valve is accessible through the hatch in

the helmsman’s seat in the cockpit (plate 32), and

whenever you are crossing open water, on sails

alone, this valve should be closed. Needless to

say, however, it is a must when starting the

engine that this valve is open, and, therefore, do not

forget to open the valve before turning the starting

key (see Checking list, paragraph 3.2).

g) Through-hull fittings ,

As a matter of convenience the diagrams 3 A and

B have been prepared to show the location of all the

through-hull fittings which are fitted with gate-

valves. It is, of course, imperative that the Skipper/

Owner makes himself familiar with the location of

these fittings.

29

3) Electrical systems

a) General

12 Volt current is provided throughout. Although

only one high capacity alternator fitted on the

engine is used for charging the batteries, the

electrical system is divided into two separate

circuits, in that the alternator is charging through

double diodes. The double diodes act just

as one-way valves: they let current pass from

the alternator to both batteries simultaneously, but

they do NOT let any current pass in the

opposite direction - from the one battery circuit

to the other. Thus, without having to operate any

complicated system of switches, you are always

sure that no current is taken from the starting

battery as long as you are not turning the starting

key, and unless the emergency switch is switched

on (see paragraph 3.3). Consequently, your

starting battery will always be fresh, and thanks to

the automatically functioning diodes you never have

to fear finding yourself with flat starting batteries

after happy days aboard without engine noise'.

The operating of the electrical systems is described

in the paragraphs 3.3, 3.4 and 3.5.

Plate 33

Wiring Connections - Mast Harness A) Mast Pillar flanged to Coach Roof

B) Mast Harness - Wiring for Top Light and Deck

Flood Light

C) Connections

b) The batteries

The batteries are fitted below the dog-house sole,

and they are accessible through the two hatches

on each side of the engine compartment. The star-

ting battery is fitted to starboard, and the battery

for ship’s service is fitted to port. Both batteries

have a capacity of 90 Ah.

The liquid level in the batteries should be checked

each time the boat is fuelled, and at least once a

month. If necessary, distilled water should be added

until the lead plates are completely covered.

If the batteries require addition of water at frequent

intervals, this may imply that the batteries are being

overcharged. The regulator on the alternator should

then be properly checked for function.

During each of the periodical services to be carried

out every 150 hours (or 3 months) of engine operation,

the batteries should be thoroughly inspected: The

battery posts and cable clamps should be cleaned with

a wire brush and all exposed metal parts of the battery

cable clamps and battery terminals should be given a

light coating of oil, grease or acid-free Vaseline. No

oil should be spilled, however, as this might harm the

battery case.) '

The batteries should be inspected for leakages,

and all terminals, including the batteries themselves,

should be checked that they are properly secured.

c) Wiring diagram

A complete wiring diagram including both electrical

systems is shown in Diagram 4 A and 4 B for

Version A and Version B respectively. All items are

clearly described in English.

It most be noted that the connections for top light,

deck flood light and (Optional) anchor light are

located inside the coach roof covering, accessible

through the small hatch in the ceiling just where

the mast pillar emerges (plate 33). The wiring for

the circuits mentioned above MUST be disconnected

if the mast is to be unstepped.

d) Periodical maintenance

Generally speaking, the electrical systems are free

from maintenance except for the cases already

mentioned (paragraph 4.3.b). Nevertheless the

following notes should be observed:

Damp air and moisture are the main causes of any

trouble with the electrical systems. It is therefore

important that all instrument panels, all connections,

etc. are kept as dry and clean from dirt as

possible. Not only does this concern the decorative

30

panel fronts, but their much more complicated back-

sides as well. A spray can containing a protective

silicone solution or a preserving, penetrating oil

is very handy indeed, and at least twice a year all

exposed metal parts in the electrical system should

be given a thin, protective layer of such a spray.

Spray all connections behind the instrument panels,

and spray all terminals and connections behind

the fuse panel.

e) Bonding - protection against corrosion

It will be observed that particular attention has

been paid to the corrosion problem, and numerous

precautions have been taken to protect against

electrolysis and/ or galvanic corrosion.

As is accepted standard, the D.C. electrical system

has negative grounding. All through-hull fittings

are thoroughly bonded, and all underwater parts are

made of the same or compatible alloys. We would

like to stress that no metal parts should be fitted

to any wet surface of the hull unless bonding is

provided. The bonding is done by interconnecting

all through-hull fittings, engine framing, stern tube

etc., by means of heavy gauge copper strip to

eliminate any electrical potential which may exist

between the various metal fittings in contact with

the current-transporting salt water.

4) The fire extinguishers

Paragraph 3.9 describes the location of the two

manually operated fire extinguishers fitted at the

yard.

As FJORD MS 33 is a purely diesel-engined boat,

carrying nothing but diesel fuel on board except

for small amounts of alcohol for the stove, the two

dry powder extinguishers are considered to be

sufficient in any situation.

The extinguishers have very comprehensive instruc-

tions for operating and maintenance printed directly

on their containers, and these instructions should

be read with care. It is imperative that one be

familiar with how to use the extinguishers, and

that they may be activated within seconds if

necessary. Of course the extinguishers do not

contribute to safety unless they are continuously

kept in order. They must. therefore, be regularly

checked according to the instructions.

5) The steering system

While a mechanical steering system of push-pull-

cable design is fitted in Version A, a hydraulic

31

steering system is provided for Version B.

Two steering positions are standard equipment in

Version B, and each steering position has full

rudder control without any transfer or manipulation

of valves or handles.

Both steering systems are generally maintenance-

free. However, it may be necessary to occasionally

bleed the hydraulic system, and have hydraulic

fluid added. If such service is to be carried out,

please note the following:

Each hydraulic helm pump has its own oil

reservoir. Any topping up should, however, take

place at the steering position in the cockpit only.

Plate 34 shows the wheel pump at the outdoor

steering position with the filler cap unscrewed.

Fluid is added until level with the lower threads

in the filler pipe. When topping up, the equivalent

to the filler cap on the inside steering helm pump

should be carefully loosened by twisting one turn

or so counter-clockwise to release trapped air.

This vent valve should be tightened once airless

fluid escapes.

Every second year the hydraulic fluid should be

changed. The system is drained by loosening

the fittings at the steering cylinder with the filler

cap opened; Follow the instructions of the manu-

facturer when refilling the system.

The top of the rudder shaft, the tiller and the

connections to the push-pull cable or to the

steering cylinder are accessible through the opening

in the bulkhead behind the ladder leading from

the cockpit to the dog-house (the back-plate

of the stowing compartment has to be removed by

unscrewing the wood screws) and/ or through

the helmsman’s seat in the cockpit. For smoothest

possible action, the connections with their

pivoting pins should be greased occasionally

(Plate 35).

6) The rig and the sails

a) General

The FJORD MS 33 is given the simplest possible

masthead rig for ease of handling and maximum

efficiency. A considerable margin of safety was

included when the spars and standing rigging were

designed, and ruggedness has been a key-word

throughout the design work. The big foretriangle

gives you any possibility of setting the optimum

foresail for any condition, while the moderate

mainsail is easily managed in a blow when it

makes a most suitable steadying sail.

b) Stepping the mast and setting the standing

rigging

The mast is stepped on the cabin-top. This is

Plate 34 Topping up Hydraulic Fluid through Filler Cap on

Steering Wheel Pump (version B)

Plate 35 Steering System - Top of Rudder Stock

A) Hydraulic Cylinder Lion Version B)

B) Tiller

C) Stuffing Box

E) Exhaust Line Through-Hull Fitting

32

a very convenient arrangement. although a slightly

heavier mast section has to be chosen than if

the mast is led through to the kelson. Thus, as a

consequence of its moderate length, the mast is

relatively easily handled. When stepping the mast,

see that the mast step on the cabin top is carefully

entered. and be aware of the wiring emerging from

the mast foot. This wiring must carefully be led

through the tube welded to the step, and to avoid

any damage to the wiring, one person should be

downstairs pulling the wiring through the tube

while the mast is lowered carefully until the bottom

of the step is touched (The mast is, as standard,

delivered with an uninsulated heavy gauge steel

wire running from the masthead to the bottom. This

wire is provided to act as guiding-wire in case you

would like to fit electronic gadgets to the mast-

head from which cables have to be drawn. This

wire need not be led through the tube, and may

conviently be left in the mast-foot.)

Before fixing the standing rigging wires to the

chainplates and the fittings at the stem and stern,

see that all turnbuckles are unscrewed until only

5 to 10 threads are left in the shank. A toggle

MUST be fitted between the bottlescrew and the

bolt in the stemhead-fitting, to avoid bending

and thus damaging the turnbuckle when the

forestay is heavily loaded by a pulling Genoa.

The cap-shrouds have to be fixed to the spreaders

by carefully tying them to the spreader-ends by

use of small-diameter rope before taping. Holes are

provided through the spreader-ends for the rope.

We recommend that the cap-shrouds be tightened

thoroughly, while the lowers be left reasonably

slack. This will result in the stick being straight

while under side-loading generated by the sails.

However, in a really rough sea the lowers may be

tightened as well to avoid excessive strain being

put on the fittings and wires. The forestay and

the backstay have to be tightened thoroughly to

get a straight luff, but avoid over-tightening for

any duration.

c) Hoisting the sails and reefing the main

As standard equipment, halliard winches are fitted

for the jib and the main. Winch for the spinnaker

halliard is optional equipment.

On most of the boats built before 1973, a reel

Winch and wire halliard are provided for the main.

When using the reel Winch it should be noted that

the separate groove in the drum provided near

the mast is to be used for the last turns on the

drum before the headboard is at the black band of the

mast head. This arrangement is provided to reduce the

bending moment at the Winch base.

When hoisting the jib, the halliard should be

pulled home completely by means of the drum

Winch before fixing to the cleat. The main, however,

should be hoisted to the black band only, and the

luff should be stretched by pulling the downhaul at

the gooseneck.

When reefing the main, see that the main boom

topping lift is attached to the boom end. Tighten

the topping lift until all strain is taken of the leech.

Then let go the gooseneck downhaul, see that you

have both the crank for the roller reefing gear and

the crank for the main halliard Winch with you

when you let go the first inches of the halliard.

Slacken the main halliard carefully until the goose-

neck slide has reached its bottom position on the

mast-track. Then have the halliard fixed to its

cleat, and crank the roller reefing Worm gear until

the boom has climbed to its upper position. Then

repeat the operation until the desired area of the

main is rolled to the boom. Then tightened the

boom downhaul, let go the topping lift and pull

home the sheet.

When rolling the reefing gear, it is usually conve-

nient to release most of the stress put on the main-

sail by letting go some of the sheet and/ or heading

closer to the wind. See that the leech is left on the

boom with as few wrinkles as possible, and note

that the battens should be taken out of their

pockets when they are close to the boom. No batten

should be allowed to be rolled in with the sail.

When Shaking out the reef, the opposite procedure

should be followed, which ought to be self-explana-

tory.

d) Periodic attentions

Chafing to the sails and running rigging is the

most usual cause of breakdowns at sea. Be aware

of this fact, and see that any chafing is mended

instantly.

Periodically, rigging screws, pins and bolts of mast-

and deck-fittings should be inspected for wear and

tear, and winches, shackles, blocks, turnbuckles etc.

should be lubricated with oil or grease to avoid

drying out and becoming stiff by corrosion and salt

water. The sails should be kept clean and dry.

Make it a rule to check over all turnbuckles and t

fittings where sharp corners, looking pins etc.

are incorporated, and use lots of soft, self-adhesive

tape to protect your sails from being damaged by

such sharp spots. Always carry on board such tape

as well as mending tape for your sails.

33

Maintenance of Exterior and Interior

34

1) Gelcoat

All the glassfibre reinforced polyester (GRP) of

the hull, deck, superstructure and other com-

ponents, is covered by a pigmented layer of

gelcoat where the laminate is exposed to abrasion,

a wet atmosphere or sunshine. The thin layer of

the gelcoat has, itself, no strength. Nevertheless

the gelcoat is an important member of the complete

GRP construction, in that it provides an essential

protection of the laminate against penetrating

moisture and demolishing ultra-violet rays.

At the same time, the gelcoat has the cosmetic

effect of giving the surface a sparkling colour,

which is, of course, a must to obtain the right

appearance.

To keep the protective effect as well as the nice

appearance, the gelcoat should be carefully main-

tained. Look at the gelcoat in the same way as

you look at the enamel of your car, and you will

realize the importance of careful treating.

Every now and then - at least once a year - all

gelcoat should be Washed down by using soap

and water and eventually a detergent specially made

for GRP-boats. After cleaning, the surface should

be waxed and polished, using a wax specially made

for the particular purpose.

Small scratches which are no deeper than the

gelcoat layer itself, i.e. there is still gelcoat left for

protecting the laminate, can be rubbed down to

obtain the glossy look before polishing.

Heavier scratches which will expose the colourless

laminate and the glassfibre itself should be repaired

as soon as possible. The area near the scratch must

be sanded carefully, and a putty made of gelcoat of

the original colour and a filler is used. After the

putty

has hardened, the area has to be rubbed and

polished. Your FJ ORD representative will be

helpful in carrying out repair work like this.

2) Anti-fouling

The MS 33 is delivered with a protective coat of

black anti-fouling applied to the bottom. Before

applying the anti-fouling, the bottom is covered by

an etching primer surface specially made for

GRP boats.

We have experienced, however, that without regard

to the care with which the primer and the antifouling

are applied at our yard, it is impossible to guarantee

that the primer has been able to etch completely

through the microscopic layer of wax or release

agent which might stick to the gelcoat after the

moulding process. Thus, it might happen that –

during the first season -the anti-fouling will loosen

over a limited area.

If it is discovered, after hauling the boat, that some of

the bottom gelcoat is exposed, the area should be

sanded before a new layer of primer surfacer and

anti-fouling are applied. Most manufacturers of marine

coatings are able to furnish an up-to-date etching

primer for GRP, and we recommend the use of a non-

metallic anti-fouling. Just take care to follow the

instructions for the specific paint used.

On FJORD MS 33, anti-fouling is applied up to a

line marked out in the gelcoat itself, clearly visible.

Located slightly above the deepest possible waterline,

this limiting line of the anti-fouling will ensure that

you always have anti-fouling above the actual water-

line, which is desirable.

It is usual to apply the bottom paint on all under-

water metal surfaces except for the propeller shaft

and propeller. If your local waters demand the fitting

of zinc anodes to protect against galvanic effects,

these anodes must NOT be painted.

3) Deck fittings and hardware

A damp and salty atmosphere is very demanding

on all chromium plating, stainless steel and anodized

aluminium if the surfaces are going to resist the tough

chemical attacks. On all FJ ORD boats, only the

highest quality of fittings and hardware are used.

Nevertheless it cannot be avoided that miscolouring

might appear because of some sort of oxidation. All

the metal fittings on deck should, therefore, occasio-

nally be washed down with household cleaner, waxed

and polished. The chromium plating and the stainless

steel surface may get a sparkling appearance by using

cleaning liquids developed for the automobile

industry.

When preserving for winter lay-up, all deck fittings

and hardware should be carefully washed and clea-

ned and then covered by a thin layer of acid-free

vaseline or equivalent. A suitable spray with

protective qualities may be used. but be sure that

the protective cover can be easily removed when

preparing for the next season.

4) Woodwork

Teak is used throughout the interior of your

FJORD MS 33. Externally. a careful selection of

teak and the beautiful wood, Iroko, has been chosen.

When varnishing teak-wood - and to some degree

the Iroko as well - special precautions have to be

taken because of the unique composition of oil and

resin in the wood structure. At FJ ORD a special

technique is developed for applying the varnish to

give a smooth, long-lasting finish.

35

The top layers of varnish consist of a two compon-

ent polyurethane resin. The wood on deck is given

a glossy finish, while all the interior surfaces are

matted down to give the famous satin-like lustre.

All exterior woodwork should be carefully

maintained

by treatment with auto polish or the like. If you get

scratches in the surface penetrating the varnish,

repair work should be carried out as soon as possi-

ble.

When repairing, first clean carefully with suitable

cleaner which will remove all dirt and polish (use

coal-tar naphta or the like). Sand down by using

fine grain sandpaper (e.g. No. 150) until smooth,

and apply two or three coats of two-component

polyurethane varnish. A varnish with matt finish

may well be used for interior repair work, but high-

gloss varnish must be used externally. Sand care-

fully between each layer. If a varnish with high gloss

is used internally, rub it down thoroughly with fine

steel wool dipped in a little linseed oil when com-

pletely hardened, and the smooth, satin finish will

be obtained.

When laying-up your boat for the winter, wash off

all salt water from the woodwork, clean it and

apply thoroughly a protective layer of wax (or car

polish).

5) Floor covering in dog-house

The covering of the floor in the dog-house is made

of PVC. It should normally be cleaned by washing

with household soaps followed by thorough flushing,

preferably with fresh water, Wash regularly, and do

not let any dirt settle.

If necessary, mineral turpentine may be used for

removing local spots, but be careful and avoid

mineral turpentine on the black ”seams”. Flush

immediately with fresh water.

Do NOT use any solvent like Acetone, Trichlore-

thylene or thinner. These fluids may dissolve the

surface of the covering.

6) Carpeting

All carpets are made of 100% synthetic fibre

(Polyamide), specially treated to avoid static

electricity. Consequently the maintenance of

the carpeting is reduced to a minimum.

A vacuum-cleaner should be used regularly to

avoid any dirt penetrating deeply into the soft

structure. Dirt which cannot be removed by the

use of the vacuum-cleaner or a dry cloth, should

be treated carefully by the use of a sponge or a

soft cloth and small amounts of lukewarm water

With foamy household cleaner in it. Let the sponge

or cloth do the job of absorbing the dirt, and do

not rub! Any mess should be removed immediately

Moisture Will not do any harm to the carpet itself.

Nevertheless, to avoid an uncomfortable and damp

atmosphere, always keep the carpeting dry. Of

course a Wet carpet might spoil the Wooden floor

itself.

7) Vinyl covering

All Wall covering, ceilings and exterior

upholstery are made of PVC and should be treated

in the same Way as the cockpit floor covering.

However, the use of mineral turpentine should be

avoided.

To clean, Wipe over With a soft cloth dampened in

mild soap and Water solution. If the mild soap and

Water does not remove the dirt, a weak solution of

spirit of sal-ammoniac and lukewarm water can be

used. For the interior Wall covering and lining,

alcohol and petrol can be used for cleaning, but

petrol should not be used in connection with the

soft upholstery used for the exterior. Avoid the use 1

solvents like Acetone, Trichlorethylene and thinner.

All spots should be removed immediately.

8) Interior upholstery

Interior upholstery is Woven of 70% Rayon and

30% pure Wool.

For daily maintenance, clean by Wiping over With

a cloth dampened in fresh Water. This is normally

all that is needed to keep the fabric in shape. Mild

soap can be used if necessary, but avoid soaking

the fabric.

Hand washing of the fabric in lukewarm water and

mild soap can be done if the fabric is removed

from the cushions. Great care has to be taken when

drying the fabric to avoid shrinkage, and the fabric

has to be treated as if it were made of pure Wool.

We recommend, however, that chemical cleansing

be applied.

9) Curtains

The curtains are Woven of a composition of cotton

and synthetic fibre (Rayon).

The curtain should be cleaned by chemical process.

The curtains are hung in slides and tracks of the

Silent Gliss system. The fabric itself is easily

removed from the tracks fm cleaning.