1
Fjord MS 33
Owners Manual
2
INDEX INDEX ............................................................... 2
Operating Instructions 3 ..................................... 3
Operating Instructions 3 ................................. 3
1) General....................................................... 4
2) Checking list .............................................. 4
3) Main switches ............................................ 4
4) Fuse panel .................................................. 5
5) Switch panel .............................................. 6
6) Steering positions instrumentation ............ 7
Version A ....................................................... 7
Version B ....................................................... 8
Both Versions................................................. 9
7) Checking engine oil level ........................ 10
8) Checking for bilge water ......................... 11
9) Fire extinguishers .................................... 12
10) Operating the marine toilet .................... 14
11) Operating the stove ................................ 14
12) Operating the refrigerator ...................... 15
13) Operating the ventilator ......................... 15
14) Navigation Lights .................................. 15
15) Handling the boat with engine ............... 16
16) Handling the boat with sails .................. 17
17) Safety at sea ........................................... 17
Description of the Systems 4 ......................... 18
1) Engine and propulsion system .............. 20
a) General ..................................................... 20
b) Stern tube ................................................. 20
c) Propeller and shaft end ............................ 21
d) Propeller locking device .......................... 21
e) Bleeding the fuel system .......................... 22
f) Periodic attentions .................................... 22
g) Shaft alignment ........................................ 23
2) Plumbing................................................. 23
a) Fuel system . ............................................ 23
b) Water cooling system .............................. 25
c) Bilge water system ................................... 25
d) Fresh water and sanitary system .............. 26
e) Cockpit drainage and deck scuppers ........ 28
f) Exhaust outlet ........................................... 28
g) Through-hull fittings................................ 28
3) Electrical systems ................................... 29
a) General ..................................................... 29
b) The batteries ............................................ 29
c) Wiring diagram ........................................ 29
d) Periodical maintenance ............................ 29
e) Bonding - protection against corrosion .... 30
4) The fire extinguishers ............................ 30
5) The steering system ............................... 30
6) The rig and the sails............................... 31
a) General ..................................................... 31
b) Stepping the mast and setting the standing
rigging .......................................................... 31
c) Hoisting the sails and reefing the main .... 32
d) Periodic attentions ................................... 32
Maintenance of Exterior and Interior.......... 33
1) Gelcoat ..................................................... 34
2) Anti-fouling ............................................. 34
3) Deck fittings and hardware ...................... 34
4) Woodwork ............................................... 34
5) Floor covering in dog-house .................... 35
6) Carpeting ................................................. 35
7) Vinyl covering ......................................... 35
8) Interior upholstery ................................... 35
9) Curtains .................................................... 35
3
Operating Instructions 3
4
1) General
FJORD MS 33 is built in two versions as far as the
cockpit and interior arrangement are concerned. The
version with control bridge in the cockpit,
pantry/galley in the dog-house and pilot-berths in the
saloon is in the following denoted Version A. The
version with steering pedestal in the cockpit, dinette
and pantry/ galley in the saloon is in the following
denoted Version B.
2) Checking list
Before starting your engine, make it a rule to go
through the following checking list:
— Switch ON the main switches for the electric 12-
Volt system (see paragraph 3.3).
— Check engine oil level (paragraph 3.5).
— Check for bilge water (paragraph 3.6).
— Check that propeller stop is disengaged
(paragraph 3.7).
— Check that exhaust outlet valve is open (see
paragraph 4.2.e).
— Check controls and instruments. Turn starting key
one notch to check warning lights. The starting key
in this position will engage the fuel gauge. Check for
fuel oil.
— See that the gear control is disengaged on engine
control box to be used for starting and warming up
(paragraph 3.8).
By this time you should have thoroughly acquainted
yourself with all controls, switches and instruments.
Please DO NOT under any circumstances, leave the
moorings without being familiar with the paragraphs
in this chapter of the OWNER’S MANUAL.
3) Main switches
The main switches for the l2—Volt electrical system
are located in a locker below the chart-table (Version
A) or inner steering position (Version B), see plate 1.
In Version A. two lockers are fitted below the chart
table. The switches are located in the locker to
starboard.
The switch-handles have to be pushed in and at the
same time turned clockwise to be placed in the ON-
position. The switch fitted low down on the control-
box is for emergency use only. It should not be
touched unless your starting battery fails to work
properly. The upper switch nearest to you is for the
ship’s service circuit. The other one is for the starting
battery only.
Plate l
Main Switches — both Versions
A) Starting Battery Main Switch
B) Diodes for Battery Charging Control
C) Ship’s Service Battery Main Switch
D) Fuse Box — Main Fuse Ship’s Service Circuit
E) Emergency Switch
F) Version B only: Propeller Lock Remote control
5
4) Fuse panel
The fuse panel is fitted in the same locker as the
main switches just above the switch-box. On some
of the boats you will find a small. black box fitted on
top or on the outer side of the switch-box with the
main-switches., When fitted, this black box
contains a main fuse for the ship's service circuit.
This main fuse is. however, a superfluous gadget, as
each and every one of the individual circuits of the
ship's service system is fitted with its own circuit
breaker.
The fuse panel as fitted in Version A is shown on
plate 2, and the panel in Version B is shown on plate
3. It appears that the fuse panel in Version A has
three switches fitted as well, namely, the main
switch for the refrigerator, the switch for the
navigation lights and the separate switch for the top-
light. All fuses and switches are plainly labelled in
English. A separate lamp is fitted in the locker. just
above the panel, inside the door. The lamp is lit by
sliding the glass sideways.
Plate 2
Fuse Panel, Version A
A) Fuse, Locker Light
B) First Boxes t
C) Switch — Refrigerator
D) Switch — Navigation Lights
E) Switch — Top Light (Steaming Light) F) Main Switch Box
Plate 3
Fuse Panel — Version B
A) Fuse Boxes
B) Fuse Locker Light
C) Main Switch Box
6
5) Switch panel
A separate switch panel is fitted in the Version B, on
the front panel of the inside steering position, to
starboard and just below the engine control box
(plate 4).
Here you find the switches for navigation lights and
top light, as well as for the deck flood-light fitted in
the mast to give light on the foredeck. Fitted here are
also the switch and dimmer for the control-panel
light, switches for the two windshield
wipers which are fitted on Version B, and the button
for the electric horn.
The main switch for the refrigerator is also fitted in
this panel. As Version B has electric, automatic bilge
pump and fresh water pressure system fitted, the
switches for
these gadgets are located in this central switch panel.
The main switch for the refrigerator is also located
here, and an additional switch is fitted for
operating the “buzzer” an acoustic alarm mounted in
the pedestal which will warn you immediately if one
of the control lamps in the instrument panel in the
dog-house is lit. As a matter of convenience this
buzzer can be switched off, but when under way,
steering from the cockpit steering position, make it a
rule to have the buzzer switched on.
Low down on the switch panel fitted in the Version
B, you will find the starting key for the engine.
Plate 4
Switch Panel - Version B only
A) Ash—Tray
B) Switch — Navigation Lights
C) Switch — Top Light (Steaming Light)
D) Switch — Riding Light (Anchor Light), Optional
E) Switch — Deck Flood Light
F) Switch — Electric Horn
G) Switch — Electric Bilge pump
H) Switch — Fresh Water Pressure System
I) Switch — Refrigerator
J) Switch — Instrument Panel Light
K) Switch — Acoustic Alarm f On/Off (Buzzer)
L) Dimmer — Instrument Panel Light
M) Switch — Windshield Wiper, Starboard
N) Switch — Windshield wiper, Centre
O) Starting Switch with Starting Key
7
Plate 5
Steering Position in Cockpit — Version A
A) Main Sheet Traveller and Adjustable End stops
B) Steering Wheel with Shaft Brake
C) Instrument Panel (Engine Instruments)
D) Engine Stop Control
E) Propeller Stop Control
F) Engine Throttle and Gear Control
Plate 6
Version A — Instrument Panel
A) Oil Pressure gauge - Engine Lubricating Oil
B) Coolant Temperature Gauge ’
C) Control Light — Charging
D) Starting Switch/Key
E) Tachometer
F) Switch — Instrument Panel Light
G) Oil Pressure Gauge — Gear Box
6) Steering positions instrumentation
Version A
Version A is, as standard, fitted with outside steering
position only (plate 5 and 6). The plates clearly show
the location of instruments and controls.
Dials are fitted for showing oil pressure on the gear
box and in the engine lubricating system respectively.
The pointers should not be allowed to drop below 85
lbs/sq.in. (60 kg/cm2) and below 30 lbs/sq.in. (2,1
kg/cm2) for the gearbox and engine oil respectively,
with the engine running at 3000 rpm.
In the cockpit coaming to starboard are fitted the push-
pull controls for the propeller locking device and the
engine stop .The upper one operates the engine stop,
and is to be pulled out to stop the engine. See that the
lever is pushed back to its inner position before you try
starting the engine again! The lower lever is for the
propeller lock, and this lever MUST be pulled out
before starting the engine and engaging the gear box.
8
The control box for the engine is fitted on the front
of the cockpit seat, just below the steering bridge. It
is conveniently situated for foot-operating, and is
away from all the ropes which have to be handled in
the cockpit. This control box is of the single lever
type (plate 7), and before starting and warming-up
can take place when lying at the mooring, the gear-
box (and the propeller) must be disengaged. This is
done simply by pulling out the knob below the
handle on the control box itself, and letting the knob
remain in this outer position (see plate). The knob
must be operated when the lever is in the neutral
position, i.e. near vertical. When the knob is in its
outer position, the lever can be operated without
engaging the propeller, and the engine can be run at
higher revolutions for warming-up. To re-engage the
shifting mechanism, move the lever back to neutral
position and push the knob back to its inner position.
If the Version A is fitted with an interior steering
position (which is optional, extra equipment), a
separate lever for changing between the outer and
inner steering wheel is fitted below the steering
bridge to port. When shifting from the one steering
position to the other, this lever must be pulled and
turned according to the label fitted. When engaging
the steering wheel at the new position, the wheel
must be turned slowly until the tiller snaps into
position. This is felt as a click in the wheel. The
new wheel is now in contact with the rudder, while
the other one is free to move without influence on
the steering.
If an interior steering position is fitted in the Version
A, only two control lights are mounted inside,
namely one light for engine coolant temperature and
one light for engine lubricating oil pressure. If
windshield wipers are fitted, switches for those are
of course included.
Version B
While the main steering position in Version A is
located in the cockpit, most of the instruments and
controls of the Version B are concentrated in the
dog-house, as the inside steering position is standard
arrangement in this version.
The instrument panel in the dog-house has control
lights fitted for oil pressure on engine and gearbox,
for high engine coolant temperature and for
insufficient charging of the batteries (plate 8). As
these
Plate 7
Disengaging Gear Control — Cockpit Control Box
Plate 8
Main Steering Position. Version B — Dog-House
A) Vent Valve. Hydraulic Steering
B) Tachometer
C) Control Light — Coolant Temperature
D) Control Light — Engine Oil Pressure
E) Fuel Gauge
F) Control Light — Gear Oil Pressure
G) Control Light — Charging H) Engine Throttle and Gear Control
I) Engine Stop Control
9
lights are lacking at the steering position in the
cockpit (plate 9), a buzzer is fitted in the steering
pedestal (see paragraph 3.5) to give an acoustic
warning if anything should go wrong.
The engine control in the dog-house is still of the
single lever type, but at present is top-mounted and
thus of a different type than mentioned earlier. To
disengage the gear control of this control box, the
lever has to be pulled sideways at the hub when
in neutral position (plate 10), and then pushed
forward. To re-engage the shift mechanism, just
move the lever back to neutral position, and it snaps
into the original engagement.
The engine stop is located on the right hand side of
the control box. Pull for stopping the engine, and do
not forget to push it back again before re-starting.
The propeller stop in the Version B is fitted in the
locker for fuse panel and main switches. (It is shown
on plate 1). When pushed down, the propeller shaft
is locked (the two-bladed propeller in vertical
position for minimum resistance when
under sail). and this handle MUST be pulled out
before the engine is started and the gearbox is
engaged!
On top of the steering pedestal in the cockpit, only
two push-buttons are fitted: One for operating the
electrical horn, and one for engine starting (plate 8).
As hydraulic steering gear is fitted in Version B, no
manipulating is needed for changing
from the one steering wheel to the other when
changing steering positions. Because of the locking
valves incorporated in the hydraulic system, both
steering wheels are engaged simultaneously,
although the one not in use will not be moving.
Both Versions
A fuel tank gauge and engine revolution counter are
fitted in the main control panels of both versions.
The engine fitted is derated at the factory to its work-
boat rating, which means that it can be driven at top
R.P.M. (3000) continuously Without
causing trouble. At 3000 R.P.M. the engine develops
37 shaft horse power. However, as the FJORD MS
33 is given a true heavy displacement hull
configuration, maximum hull speed in smooth water
is obtained at far less engine speed than 3000 R.P.M.
Pushing the throttles wide open does nothing but
generate a lot of waves and an unpleasant wake, as
well as more than necessary engine noise, and it is
our opinion that nothing more than, say, 2000
R.P.M. is needed for normal cruising. The marginal,
obtainable power may, however, be of great
importance from a safety point of view, if heavy
weather has to be fought head on.
Plate 9
Steering Position in Cockpit — Version B
A) Electric Horn Switch
B) Engine Starting Switch
C) Oil filler Cap — Hydraulic Steering
D) Engine Throttle and Gear Control
Plate 10 .
Disengaging Gear Control — Main Steering Position,
Version B
10
Tremendous air resistance is, under such
circumstances, generated by the rig, and the
excessive engine power transmitted through the 3:1-
ratio gear-box to the big, 22 inches diameter
propeller, will be felt as a real must in a blow.
When starting a cold engine, the quickest response is
obtained if the throttle is opened when engaging the
starter, but remember to DISENGAGE THE GEAR
CONTROL! The starter motor is activated simply by
turning the starting key the second notch
in a clockwise direction when pushing down. When
the engine starts, release the key. It will then turn
back to the ”notch one” position, where it should be
kept until the engine is stopped. Then switch off the
control panel by turning the key back to neutral
position. All control lights will then be out.
Please note that the gear lever control must be put in
neutral position before the engine is shut down.
During the warming-up period, let the engine run at,
say, 1500.R.P.M. to reach working temperature as
quickly as possible.
7) Checking engine oil level
To gain access to the oil dipstick and the oil filler
cap of the engine, the forward hatch in the dog—
house
sole has to be lifted (plate 11).
Oil level must be within the two marks on the stick.
When topping up, note that the difference between
the upper and the lower mark on the dip-stick
amounts for approximately 1,0 litre (l,75 imp. Pints).
If you are travelling over long distances with engine
alone, and your engine is used more than 12 hours
continuously at a time, the oil level should be
checked
every 12 hours. For such routine checking, let the
engine idle for approximately 2 minutes. Then shut
down the engine, and read the dip-stick.
Plate 11
Checking Engine Oil Sump Level
A) Coolant Filler Cap
B) Oil Dip Stick
C) Lubricating Oil Filler Cap
11
8) Checking for bilge water
Both Versions have a high capacity diagram bilge
pump fitted in the cockpit coaming to port (plate 12)
In addition to this, an automatic, electrically
operated bilge pump is fitted in the Version B, to
starboard in the engine room (plate 13). All bilge
water is drained from the hul1’s deepest point just
abaft the engine compartment. When lifting the
hatch for checking engine oil level, make it a rule to
have a look into the bilges, and see that they are free
from any water. (Be aware of the fact that it is
necessary for proper functioning of the propeller
shaft stuffing box that the gland is lubricated by
small amounts of water. Consequently, some water
must always be allowed to drip into the hull through
the stuffing box.)
Pumping a few strokes with the manual pump in the
cockpit will empty the bilges quickly.
In the Version B a shower is fitted in the toilet
compartment. This shower drains directly to the
bilges. As a consequence of this arrangement the
automatic bilge pump is mounted. The automatic
switch of this pump will, however, not activate the
pump until a certain amount of water is present. If
the automatic switch fails to work, this pump can
also be activated by switching ON the bilge pump
switch in the switch panel (paragraph 3.5).
If more water than what is to be expected from the
stern gland and the shower collects in the bilges,
pump dry and check for leakages immediately.
(See chapter 4, paragraph 2 e).
Plate 12
Manual Bilge Pump in Cockpit Coaming
Plate 13
Automatic, Electric Bilge Pump — Version B only
A) Pump housing
12
9) Fire extinguishers
Two manually operated fire extinguishers are fitted
in both versions, however, located in slightly
different positions.
In Version A, one extinguisher is fitted in the oilskin
locker to starboard in the dog-house, and one
extinguisher is fitted on the bulkhead in the big
hanging locker adjacent to the toilet room (plate 14
and 15).
Plate 14
Location of Fire Extinguisher Aft — Version A
Plate 15
Location of Fire Extinguisher Forward — Version A
13
Plate 16
Location of Fire Extinguisher Aft — Version B
In Version B the aft extinguisher is fitted on the
chart—table sidewall in the dog-house, just adjacent
to the ladder leading down from the cockpit (plate
16), while the secondary extinguisher is fitted on the
side-panel of the forward, athwartship settee
of the dinette, facing port (plate l7).
The extinguishers are of the powder—type, the one
in the dog-house of 1,0 kg. capacity and the for-
ward one of 2,0 kg. capacity. The operating
instructions printed on the extinguisher itself should
be read carefully.
Plate 17
Location of Fire Extinguisher Forward — Version B
14
10) Operating the marine toilet
The manually operated marine toilet, fitted as
standard, discharges overboard. Complete operating
and maintenance instructions are delivered together
with this MANUAL.
The following brief instructions should, however, be
read before use:
A) Before use see that the seacocks for both intake
and discharge lines (the gate valves on the through-
hull fittings) are open. The seacock for the intake
line is located below the sole in the forecabin (plate
18), and the carpet has to be removed to gain access
to the hatch. The sea-cock for the discharge line is
located below the head’s socket in Version A (plate
19), and just behind the head (close to the aft
bulkhead of the toilet room) in Version B (plate 20).
B) Just before using the toilet, open the supply valve
this is done by raising the lever on the side of the
pump cylinder — and pump some water into the
bowl to make it wet.
C) After use: Pump slowly with the supply valve in
its open position, and continue to pump five or six
extra strokes after the bowl is clean to thoroughly
clear the discharge line of all refuse. Then close the
supply valve and pump until the bowl is completely
empty.
NOTE:
The head in the FJORD MS 33 is mounted BELOW
the waterline level. Consequently, unless the supply
valve is completely closed, the bowl will
fill with water and overflow. Thus, whenever you are
sailing, whenever there are rough seas, and
whenever you are leaving the boat overnight, we
strongly advise you to close the seacocks and pump
the bowl completely dry to prevent splashing.
11) Operating the stove
As standard equipment in the galley, you will find a
gimballed two-burner alcohol-stove with pressure
tank incorporated.
Plate 18
Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Water Intake
Plate 19
Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Discharge Line —
Version A
Plate 20
Through-Hull Fitting — Toilet Discharge Line —
Version B
15
To light the burner, pump approximately ten strokes
to build up pressure in the tank (see that the filler cap
is tightened thoroughly). Then open the needle valve
in the burner by turning the wheel slightly counter-
clockwise. Shut the valve immediately
when the small cup below the burner is filled with
alcohol. Light the alcohol in the cup with a match or
the like, and let this small amount of burning alcohol
take care of the warming up of the burner. When
most of the alcohol in the cup has disappeared, open
the burner’s valve again, and the stove will burn with
a clear, blue flame.
To shut off the stove, just turn the wheel clockwise
until it stops. The fuel valve is then closed.
When refilling the pressure tank. open the filler cap
slowly to carefully let out the pressurized air before
the cap is unscrewed completely.
Complete operating and maintenance
instructions are delivered together with this
MANUAL (see separate leaflet).
12) Operating the refrigerator
A 42 litre (1,5 cu.ft.) refrigerator is fitted in the
galley of Version A, and an 85 litre (3,0 cu.ft.)
refrigerator is fitted in Version B. The refrigerators
are both electric and powered from the ship’s
service-battery. The main switch for the refrigerator
is
fitted in the fuse-panel locker in Version A, and in
the switch panel in Version B (see paragraph 3.4 and
3.5).
Thanks to the efficient compressor, the refrigerators
have a very reasonable power consumption.
However, if we calculate with moderate 1,5 and 2,5
amperes current consumption per hour for the 42
litre and the 85 litre refrigerator respectively (which
are quite reasonable figures anticipating normal use),
the total capacity of the service battery will do for no
more than 60 hours and 36 hours for the two
versions respectively, (battery capacity is 90 Ah See
paragraph 4.3.b), if we assume that no battery
charging is taking place.
We must, however, consider that the battery is not
only supplying the refrigerator, and, consequently,
we would like to advise you to be careful with the
electric power consumption. When the boat is
unattended, switch off the refrigerator and take
ashore the contents. When lying at anchor for any
time. with the refrigerator continuously operating,
take the trouble to start the engine at least once a day
and let it run for an hour or so to have the battery
topped up.
The thermostat knob of the refrigerator is located on
the inside back-wall, and the temperature-setting is
easily adjusted.
As with all refrigerators, these also need periodic
defrosting. Beware of ice on the condenser (the
refrigerant harness), which reduces the efficiency.
Always use the safety lock on the door to avoid
trouble when sailing or motoring in a seaway.
13) Operating the ventilator
(Version B only)
In the Version B, where the galley is located
downstairs in the saloon, an electric ventilator is fitted
above the stove. The ventilator is of the two-speed,
reversible type, and the switch can be set in two
positions for intake and two positions for outtake.
The air vent is covered by a fine, non-corroding mesh
which acts as a combined insect guard and seal against
penetrating water.
For activating: Just turn the switch fitted on the
bulkhead in the galley.
14) Navigation Lights
Only internationally approved navigation lights are
fitted. Certificates for each lantern are delivered along
with this MANUAL.
The switches for navigation lights AND top light are
fitted in the fuse panel locker in
Version A and in the switch panel in Version B (see
paragraph 3.4 and 3.5).
According to the international rules to avoid collision
at sea, ONLY the navigation lights (the red and green
side lights fitted in the pulpit and the white light facing
aft, fitted in the ”pushpit”) shall be lit. When the
engine is started and the boat is handled as a motor
boat, the top light (steaming light) shall be switched on
as well (the top light is fitted in the mast), and the jib
should be lowered to ensure visibility of the top
light.
Make it a routine to always check, by eye, that the
navigation lights are functioning after switching on in
the evening.
Replacement of defective bulbs is done by turning the
base of the bulb socket one notch to the left
16
(plate 21), and the complete socket can be taken out
of the housing. The bulb is fixed -in position by a
bayonette socket. Push the bulb down into the
socket and turn counter-clockwise to dismount.
Replace defective bulb. (For bulb specification: See
paragraph 7.4).
The importance of having the navigation
lights in perfect order can not be
overemphasized.
15) Handling the boat with engine
The FJORD MS 33 is a heavy displacement boat,
and she behaves like one. This implies that one has
to take into account her heavy weight and great mass
of inertia when manoeuvring. Although she is given
a big, slow-revving propeller, she will
not accelerate and decelerate in the same manner as
a light-weight, planing speed-boat.
Therefore, whenever manoeuvring in a harbour or in
close quarters, SLOW DOWN! Pushing the throttle
momentarily while moving at slow speeds will give
you the necessary effect of the propeller jet striking
the rudder to make steering easy and
accurate, without the troublesome result of
increasing your speed out of control.
When going forward, looking from astern, your
propeller turns clockwise (right-hand propeller).
Consequently, when going astern, your propeller
turns counter-clockwise. As the water pressure
increases with depth, the revolving of the propeller
will generate a sideforce from the water, trying to
push the stern to starboard when going forward and
to port when going astern. This sideforce is hardly
felt when going forward but, when going astern,
however, it can upset a well-planned manoeuvre if
not taken into consideration. Because of the steering
effect of the propeller, you will find it easier to take
your port side along the quay under normal
conditions, in that the
stern will swing sideways to port when reversing for
stopping. When going astern, you will occasionally
find it difficult to have the stern turned to starboard,
although giving full starboard rudder. To get control,
after having obtained some speed astern, put the
throttle lever back in neutral and give the rudder a
chance to operate without
the disturbing effect of the propeller. As soon as you
get response and the stern starts to swing in the right
direction, the propeller can be reengaged.
Plate 21
Navigation Light — Changing Defective Bulb
The heavy displacement, double-ender hull
configuration of the FJORD 33 is developed to give
out-standing seaworthiness and seakindliness. It is,
however, a well-accepted fact that a really seaworthy
and seakindly vessel will be
susceptible to heavy rolling in a severe seaway (just
look at the fishing vessel, rescue vessels, whale
catchers and the like) when under engine power alone.
In this condition we would like to stress the great
value of the small, easily handled mainsail of the
17
FJORD MS 33 as a steadying and stabilizing sail in a
seaway. Whenever a breeze is blowing, and
whenever a sea is running, your main should be
hoisted unless you are in really restricted waters.
You may reef it down as much as you would like,
but the presence of some cloth on your spars will
always have a remarkable effect on your comfort, in
that rolling will be drastically reduced. (Of course,
should you be hit by a hurricane your bare poles
would do for the stabilizing, and all sails should be
left under deck. This would be, however, extreme
conditions.)
We would also like to stress the value of MOTOR-
SAILING, which ought to be practiced whenever
you are in a hurry with the wind abeam or ahead.
Unless you already are sailing at maximum hull
speed, the combined use of both engine and sails
may be most beneficial. Normally only moderate
power from your propeller will increase the speed of
the hull through the water. This again will increase
the relative wind speed striking the sails, which
results in more power from the sails! Thus,
a small, additional push from the propeller may
result in a relatively large increase in boat speed
which might be worthwhile. Motorsailing can be
most comfortable way to transport oneself from
point A to point B, and is much to recommend when
time is a limiting factor.
We recommend, of course, that due attention be paid
to the checking list (paragraph 3.2) before any
motoring is initiated.
16) Handling the boat with sails
Unless you are a very experienced yachtsman
familiar with handling sails and sailing yachts,
always make use of your engine alone when going to
and from the quay or your mooring. When out of the
harbour, head up into the wind moving ahead at slow
speed, and hoist your main-sail. Give off the
downhaul at the goose-neck, hoist the main until the
headboard is just at the black band in the mast-top,
have the winch locked (if a reel winch or have the
halliard fixed to the cleat (if drum-winch) before
setting the down-haul.
The engine can be shut down as soon as your main
pulls but, as the boat is perfectly balanced first when
you also have added a foresail, you will not get the
proper response to your rudder unless a jib or Genoa
is up on the headstay.
When returning to your mooring, let the foresail
down and start the engine while still in open water.
If any breeze is blowing, head up into the wind before
lowering the main. Have the main bent to the boom
and all other sails stowed below before you pick up
your mooring.
A clean deck is a must for proper manoeuvring.
17) Safety at sea
Never forget the safety precautions! Whenever you are
going offshore for any duration, be sure you have your
emergency equipment on board! Tools, rope, flares,
lifebuoys, anchors, the first aid kit etc. should all have
their fixed location on board.
It is, however, at least as important that the personal
effects like life belts and safety harnesses are aboard
for all of the crew.
In this connection, it may be worth mentioning that the
lifelines of the FJORD MS 33 are tightened by means
of rope instead of by means of bottle-screws. This is a
consequence of the accepted safety rules for offshore
racing, which are based on experience gained the hard
way. Lives have been lost at sea in that an exhausted
crew
were unable to haul aboard a man lost overboard
because of the high lifelines! The rope at the ends of
the wires can easily be cut with a knife, and the
lifelines are slackened off to deck level.
Because safety and ruggedness have been keywords as
far as the development of the FJORD MS 33 is
concerned, we want you to pay attention to what we
are stressing in the following:
If you are planning to cross big oceans with your
FJORD MS 33, and you are expecting really rough
going, it may be necessary to provide special
arrangements to protect the dog-house against the
damaging forces of the green seas. We recommend
that detachable wire straps be fitted at each of the four
corners of the dog-house-top to
make it possible to tie down the dog-house to the
decks. We recommend that heavy gauge aluminium or
plywood panels be stowed onboard, which can be
fitted to protect the windows from the outside
(deadlights).
We also recommend that a high (up to seat-level),
heavily constructed bridge or threshold be provided in
the cockpit where the companionway leads down to
the dog-house to protect the teak doors if pooped by a
following sea, and we recommend a bar be provided
on the inside of the dog-house doors to keep the doors
closed if a pooping sea should strike.
With these modifications carried out, you should be
well prepared for a round the world cruise in a safe,
sturdy and seaworthy vessel.
18
Description of the Systems 4
19
Plate 22
Arrangement – Engine Compartment
A) Fuel Sedimenter
B) Fresh Water Pressure Pump Unit
C) Engine Coolant Filler Cap
D) Engine Lubricating Oil Filler Cap
E) Engine Oil Dip Stick
F) Battery Case – Ship’s Service Battery to Port
G) Oil Filler Caps Gear Box
H) Through-Hull Fitting - Engine Raw Water
Intake
I) Propeller Locking Device
J) Connecting Boxes and Relays - Engine’s
Electrical System
K) Exhaust Outlet entering Water Jacket
Plate 23
Stern Tube Stuffing Box and Propeller Lock
A) Through-Hull Fittings - Engine Raw Water
Intake
B) Raw Water Outlet Hawse (To Water Jacket)
C) Stern Tube Stuffing Box
D) Propeller Shaft Looking Device
20
Plate 24
Stern Bearing and Propeller
A) Intake Scoop - Water to Water lubricated
Stern
Bearing
B) Bottom End of Rudder Stock with Bearing
1) Engine and propulsion system
a) General
As standard, the FJORD MS 33 is fitted with a
PERKINS engine of the type 4.108 (earlier type
4.107), with the governor adjusted to give an engine
output power of 37 shaft horsepower at 3000
revolutions per minute. (When rated to give maxi-
mum power for intermittent work, the figures is 47
S.H.P. at 3600 R.P.M. for the same engine) The 37
SHP-rating is a heavy duty workboat rating, which
implies that the engine can be run at 3000
R.P.M. continuously - for days.
The engine drives through a TMP hydraulic gearbox
of gear ratio 3 : 1, which indicates that maximum
propeller revolutions are as low as 1000 R.P.M. The
gearbox changes the direction of rotation, and
although the engine is turning counter-clockwise
when looking from the stern, the propeller is turning
clockwise when going ahead.
Instructions for how to operate the engine are given
in paragraph 3.6.
The engine is flexibly mounted on rubber vibration
dampers to reduce the structure-transmitted noise to
a minimum, and the 1 1/2” diameter stainless steel
propeller shaft is led through the stern in a flexible
stuffing box and bearing.
Plate 22 shows the engine compartment below the
dog-house sole, with both hatches removed. Although
the space is not excessive, all vital details are easily
accessible for service and maintenance.
b) Stern tube
The stuffing box fitted to the stern tube is a standard
MQRSE flexible stuffing box connected to the tube
itself by a heavy duty rubber hose. The stuffmg box is
shown in plate 23.
It must be noted that the packing, which is forced
against the shaft by the beveled gland of the adjusting
nut to keep water from penetrating, is itself water
lubricated. Consequently, small
amounts of water must be allowed to occasionally drip
into the hull, and the nut MUST NOT be over
tightened in an attempt to avoid this leakage.
When tightening the nut, turn clockwise until it
becomes stiff, then slacken again by turning counter-
clockwise one turn, and lock the nut by
means of the looking pin.
The stern bearing is fitted outside the stern. A water
lubricated rubber bearing (cutless bearing) is provided,
ensuring trouble-free use for years.
(Plate 24).
21
The hose clamps in the stuffing box should be
examined whenever the engine is checked, i.e., for
the first time after 25 to 50 hours running and then at
every 150 hours or 3 month intervals. The rubber
hose itself must be checked every year, and, if
becoming brittle, it must be replaced immediately by
a new, oil resistant hose (contact your FJ ORD
dealer).
Whenever the boat is hauled out of the water, the
propeller shaft should be checked for shells and the
like which might tear the rubber in the bearing,
and the two water inlets (scoops) in front of the
bronze casting of the stern bearing should be cleaned
to ensure free water flow.
c) Propeller and shaft end
The propeller fitted is designed specially for use on
sailing auxiliaries. It is two-bladed with narrow
blades to give minimum resistance under sail when
locked in a vertical position.
The propeller shaft end and the propeller bore are
machined according to S.A.E. standard
specifications.
d) Propeller locking device
The gearbox needs oil pressure to be adequately
lubricated. Consequently, if the propeller is trailing
(rotating free in the water flow) when under sail with
the engine shut down, lack of lubricating oil supply
to the bearings in the gearbox may destroy gears,
shaft and bearings. Thus the propeller lock is
provided, ensuring that the propeller
is not free-wheeling as well as that the propeller is
kept in vertical position for minimum resistance.
Operating the propeller lock is described in
paragraph 3.6.
The propeller lock mechanism is shown in plate 23.
A pin is fitted to the flange of the gear box output
shaft, and a spring-loaded clamp is pivoted to catch
the pin and prevent the shaft from turning.
The pivoting of the clamp is controlled by use of the
handles described in paragraph 3.6.
The spring tension of the clamp is adjusted to avoid
serious damage if one should happen to forget to
disengage the propeller lock before engine power is
turned on. Nasty rattling will tell you if this is
happening. However, you may experience that the
lock-spring is to weak to stand the great moment of
inertia of the propeller when locking
the propeller at high boat speeds. If heavy clicks are
heard from the locking mechanism, head into the wind
to slow down the boat for a moment
until the propeller has stopped revving. Then bear off
to the actual course.
Plate 25
Engine - Port Side View
A) Injection _Pump Vent Valve
22
Plate 26
Engine - Starboard Side View
A) Reduction Gear Oil Level Plug
B) Reduction Gear Oil Filler Plug
C) Reverse Gear Oil Dip Stick and Filler Cap
D) Manual Fuel Feed Pump Level
e) Bleeding the fuel system
Avoid running out of fuel! If - on a diesel engine -
air is trapped in the fuel line, the engine refuses to
work. This is a consequence of the fuel injection
system. If, however, air has been enclosed in the
fuel line, either as a result of running out of fuel or
after any part of the system between the
fuel tank and the fuel injection pump has been
disconnected, the fuel system will have to be bled.
Usually the fuel system on the PERKINS 4.108 V
(and 4.107) is very easily bled (see plate 25 and 26).
Slacken the vent valve fitted on the hydraulic head
looking screw on the injection pump on the port side
of the engine (plate 25). Then operate the lever on
the fuel pump fitted on the engine’s starboard side
(plate 26) until fuel, free from air bubbles and foam,
issues from the venting screw.
(If it is not possible to move the feed pump lever, the
camshaft driving the lift pump lever may be on
maximum lift. If so, turn the engine one revolution
by using the electric starter momentarily.)
Then tighten the venting screw, and the engine
is ready for starting. Disengage the gear control
(see paragraph 3.6), push the speed control lever to
maximum speed position, and engage the starter by
turning the starting key.
If the engine does not start at this occasion, a more
comprehensive bleeding procedure has to be carried
out, as described in the “Handbook for the Perkins
Marine Diesel Engines” (delivered together with the
MANUAL) in the chapter “Bleeding the Fuel
System.”
f) Periodic attentions
The (enclosed) “Handbook for the Perkins Marine
Diesel Engines” specifies the periodic checks for the
maintenance of the engines. The handbook indicates
that, besides frequent checking of engine sump oil
level as described in paragraph 3.7 of this manual, the
coolant level and gearbox oil level should also be
checked daily if the engine is running continuously.
The filler cap for the engine coolant is visible on plate
22. To open: Push down and turn counter-clockwise.
Be careful if the cap has to be opened
when the engine is warm or hot, as the cooling system
is then under pressure. Turn the cap slowly: The level
of the coolant should be just a little below the neck of
the filler pipe.
The TMP gear box with reduction gear is divided into
two compartments: the forward one containing the
reversing gear, and the aft compartment housing the
reduction gear. The oil level on the
reversing gear box is checked by means of the dip
stick on the starboard side of the casing, while the oil
level on the reduction gear box is checked by means of
the oil level plug low down on the casing, on the
starboard side. The oil filler cap for the revers-
23
ing gearbox is identical with the nut on the top of the
dip stick pipe, while the filler plug on the reduction
gearbox is located on the starboard side, of the
gearbox, and is visible on plate 26.
If the dip stick of the gear box is read after the
engine has been stationary for more than 20 minutes,
oil level should be to the mark on the stick.
If, however, the dip stick is read immediately after
the engine has been shut down, there is sufficient oil
in the gearbox as long as oil is showing between the
mark and bottom end of the dipstick rod. If oil does
not show in the rod, top up until bottom of rod is
touched.
Oil level on the reduction gear box should be just up
to the hole drilled for the level plug. Do not forget to
replace the plug; screwing it tightly home before
restarting engine after checking oil level.
Unfortunately the level plug on the reduction gear
box casing is quite inconveniently situated. It may be
accepted, however, that the oil level on the reduction
gear box is checked only once a week.
For oil specifications, see chapter 7.
Besides the daily checking for oil and water,
periodic service has to be carried out of every 150
and 400 hours running (or every 3 and l2 months
running, respectively, whichever occurs first), as
specified in the engine Handbook.
When the “every 150 hours” (or “every 3 months”)
service is carried out, at the same time the following
should be checked:
1) The bolts and nuts on the flexible engine
mountings.
2) The bolts and nuts on the propeller shaft flanges.
3) The hose clamps on the stern tube hoses.
These three items should also be checked during the
post delivery check over after the first 25/50hours in
service.
g) Shaft alignment
Although the stern tube stuffing box and the stern
bearing do allow for some flexing in the shaft, it is of
the utmost importance for trouble free service that
the propeller shaft is exactly in line with the engine.
The delivery control to be carried out by the FJORD
representative includes aligning of the engine after
the boat has been launched. In addition to this control,
a new alignment should be undertaken as part of the
post delivery check over, when the boat has been in
service for 25/50 hours.
After winter lay-up ashore, over-land transportation
and the like, the alignment of the engine should be
repeated after the boat has been launched again.
2) Plumbing
a) Fuel system .
Diagram 1 shows the positioning of the fuel tank and
the fuel lines. One fuel tank is fitted, located below the
cabin sole. (Note: On boats built before 1973 two fuel
tanks are provided; fitted below the stowing
compartment under the cockpit
seats. The tank-tops are then accessible trough the
bottom-plates of the stowing compartments.)
The tank-top is accessible through a hatch in the cabin
sole, just in front of the forward engine compartment
bulkhead (remove the carpet).
The filler cap is fitted on the side deck to port, and the
tank is ventilated high above deck level to avoid diesel
oil being spilled on deck while heeling close hauled.
When fuelling, whether with gasoline or diesel fuel,
due attention must be paid to the following
precautions:
1) Be sure there are no loose fittings and/or leakage in the
fuel tank, fill pipe, vent pipes and the fuel lines.
2) Do not fuel at night except under well lit conditions.
3) Do not smoke, strike matches etc.
4) Stop engine(s), motors, fans and devices liable to produce
sparks.
5) Put out all lights and galley fires.
6) See that the boat is moored securely.
7) Close all ports, windows, doors and hatches.
8) Ascertain as accurately as possible how much additional
fuel the tank will hold.
9) Keep the nozzle of hose or can in contact with the filler
pipe to guard against possible sparks from static electricity
generated.
10) See that no fuel spills get into the hull or
bilges.
11) After fuelling, see that the filler cap is
thoroughly secured and closed.
12) Wipe up all spilled fuel.
13) Open all ports, windows, doors and hatches.
14) Let the boat ventilate for at least 5 minutes.
15) See that there is no trace of fuel in the engine room or
below decks before starting engines or using bare flame.
24
Plate 27 -
Top of Fuel Tank
A) Fuel Valve
B) Fuel Filler Pipe
C) Fuel Return Line (from Engine)
D) Fuel Gauge Sensor
E) Inspection Hatch
Plate 27 shows the top of the fuel tank accessible
through the cabin sole, with inspection hatch, pipe-
connections and the fuel valve. The inspection hatch
provides access to the inside of the tank when
removed by unscrewing the flange-bolts.
The fuel valve is open when the handle is turned
parallel with the piping.
(On boats built before 1973, in which two fuel tanks
are fitted, the fuel valves are located below the cockpit
sole in the stowing compartment just behind the aft
engine compartment bulkhead. The valves are
accessible through the opening in the
bulkhead behind the ladder leading from the
cockpit to the dog-house.)
The fuel tank is welded of heavy gauge seawater-
resistant aluminium alloy. To avoid galvanic effects
and corrosion of the aluminium, always keep the tank
top clean and never let metal parts, foreign to
aluminium, rest on it for any length of time.
A water-separating sedimenter is fitted on the fuel line
in the engine room, located on the forward bulkhead
just in front of the engine (plate 28). The
Plate 28
Fuel Sedimenter (Filter)
25
sedimenter is designed to trap the larger, solid
particles and water droplets which might be present
in the fuel. The accumulated water and sediment can
be seen through the transparent bowl and may be
drained off periodically by either removing the bowl
from the sedimenter top or by unscrewing the drain
plug in the base, providing such plug is fitted (two
alternative sedimenters have been fitted in the
FJORD MS 33). Do not forget to bleed the fuel
system after having drained the sedimenterl
b) Water cooling system
The engine is fitted with an indirect cooling system.
This system incorporates a heat exchanger, fresh
water as heat transporting medium in a closed
circuit and raw water as the cooling medium. The
raw water intake with through-hull fitting and sea-
cock (gatevalve) is located in the engine room, just
to starboard of the gear box (plate 23).
Serious clogging of the cooling water intakes will
lead to overheating of the engine. If this happens,
temperature rise is shown by the instruments. On
version B the buzzer will give an accoustic warning
as well.
Without doubt, shells, barnacles. seaweed etc. in and
outside the cooling water intake my lead to restric-
ted water flow to the piping. We therefore recom-
mend that the water intake be thoroughly checked
and cleaned whenever the boat is hauled ashore
for periodical servicing.
We also strongly recommend that hoses and hose-
connections (with hose clamps) of the cooling
water system be thoroughly inspected during the
service to be carried out for every 150 hours (or
3 months) of engine operation. Inspection of the
same items should take place during the postde-
livery checkover (after 25/50 hours in service)
as well. Brittle hoses must instantly be replaced.
The raw water is discharged through the water
jacket fitted to the exhaust piping (asbestos insu-
lated, uncooled exhaust piping on boats built before
1973) to a water injection pipe injecting the water
directly into the exhaust flow down the exhaust-
bend in the stern. This arrangement has a remark-
able effect in reducing exhaust outlet noise level.
c) Bilge water system
A brief description of the bilge water system is
given in paragraph 3.8 (plates 11 and 12).
We recommend that all hose clamps, hoses and
connections as well as the pump(s) and the switch
of the automatic draining device fitted in Version B
be thoroughly inspected during the service to be
Plate 29
Dismantling the Manual Bilge Pump
Rubber Diaphragm is loosened by unscrewing the
Hawse-Clamp Screw A
26
Plate 30
Fresh Water Pressure Pump Unit
Diagram 2 A
Fresh Water System - Version A
Diagram 2 B
Fresh Water System - Version B
carried out every 150 hours (3 months) of engine
operation. Brittle hoses must be replaced.
Although space is restricted, the diaphragm
pump fitted in the cockpit coaming should be
disconnected for inspection (plate 29).
d) Fresh water and sanitary system
Two fresh water tanks are fitted, located on each side
of the cockpit, below the bottom-plates in the stowing
ompartment below cockpit seats. Just abaft the aft
engine room bulkhead. (In boats built before 1973, a
single fresh water tank is fitted below the cabin sole.)
The fresh water tanks are connected with a “T”-joint
before the hose-line is led to the manual pumps in
Version A and to the water pressure pump system of
Version B. Diagrams 2 A and B show the systems
fitted in Version A and Version B respectively.
Only one filler cap is provided for the two fresh water
tanks. The cap is fitted in the side deck to starboard,
just adjacent to the cockpit. The word WATER is
engraved on the fitting itself, and the filler pipe for
water MUST NOT BE MIS-
TAKEN FOR THE FUEL FILLER PIPE fitted farther
forward to PORT.
When topping up the water tanks, the gate valve fitted
to the hose connecting the two tanks must be opened
to let water from the starboard flow across and into the
port tank. This gate valve is accessible through the
opening in the bulkhead
behind the ladder leading from the cockpit to the dog-
house, where the wheel of the valve protrudes through
the bottom plate of the stowing compartment close to
the bulkhead. Usually this valve is fitted to port, but on
some of the Version A-boats, you will find this valve
to starboard in the stowing compartment. Whenever
you are sailing in heavy
weather, with large angles of heel, see that this gate
valve is closed to avoid water flowing from the wind-
ward tank high up and down to the leeward tank,
with valuable fresh water being lost through the
leeward tank’s ventilating pipe as result.
The fresh water tanks are Ventilated to the hollow
cockpit coamings (forward end each side) to avoid
salt water entering when spray is flying in rough
weather.
An inspection hatch is provided on top of each of
the fresh water tanks, and these hatches have to
be removed for cleaning the tanks.
As mentioned in paragraph 4.2 a, since the fresh
water tanks as well as the fuel tank are welded of
heavy gauge, sea-water resistant, aluminium alloy,
the tank plating should be kept as clean as possible to
avoid any galvanic effects and corrosion of
the alloy.
27
As mentioned earlier, a water pressure system is
fitted in Version B. The complete pressure
assembly, consisting of the electrical pump, a small
pressure tank and electronic devices, is fitted in
the engine compartment to port, near the forward
bulkhead (see Diagram 2 B and plate 30). The
main switch for the water pressure system is fitted
in the switchpanel (paragraph 3.5).
From the water pressure unit the piping leads
directly to the taps in the galley and toilet room.
The pump unit works automatically in that it starts
functioning as soon as the pressure in the system
drops below a preset value. Thus, as soon as a tap
is opened and water evacuates, the pressure drops
and the pump is activated.
This working principle for the water pressure
system means that any small leakage which might
occur, will easily and immediately be detected. The
leakage will cause a continuous pressure drop in the
system, which again will activate the electric pump.
The pump will start and stop regularly with a fre-
quency dependent on the quantity of water lost,
and the pump is, fortunately, not completely
noiseless.
On some of the fresh water pumps fitted, a small,
red starting button is provided on the pump casing.
As the automatic switch of the pump refuses to work
unless a minimum pressure exists in the system,
the starting button has to be depressed for starting
whenever the fresh water tank has been com-
pletely drained and the pressure in the system has
dropped to zero. As soon as pressure has been
built up in the system, the starting button can be
released, and the automatic switch takes over. This
arrangement is provided to avoid the pump to run
dry.
In Version A, manually operated fresh water
pumps are fitted in the galley and toilet room.
Sanitation:
Operating instructions for the head are given in
paragraph 3.10. As a supplement to these
instructions, a comprehensive installation and main-
tenance instructions leaflet is delivered together
with the head and is enclosed with this MANUAL.
We recommend that all hose clamps, hoses and
connections, as well as the pumps and the electrical
devices of the pressure unit in Version B, be
thoroughly inspected during the periodic servicing
to be carried out every 150 hours (or 3 months)
of engine running. Brittle hoses must be replaced,
and any leakage which might occur, must be
repaired.
Plate 31
Through-Hull Fitting, Cockpit Drainage A) Gate Valve on Connecting Line between Fresh
Water Tanks
B) Hawse from Cockpit Scupper (Port) to
Through-Hull Fitting
C) Through-Hull Fitting with Gate Valve
28
e) Cockpit drainage and deck scuppers
The scuppers providing drainage of the decks
are connected to the drain pipes discharging water
from the self-draining cockpit. Water which might
enter the stowing rooms in the cockpit coamings,
is drained to the cockpit itself.
Water outlets are provided in each of the two
forward corners of the cockpit, and big-section
hoses are led vertically down from the water out-
lets to through-hull fittings. These hoses are visible
through the opening in the bulkhead behind the
ladder leading from the cockpit to the dog-house,
and the gate valves of the through-hull fittings
are accessible through the bottom plates of the
stowing compartment. (plate 31).
f) Exhaust outlet
To avoid water entering the exhaust system when
sailing in heavy water, a gate valve is provided
in connection with the through-hull fitting for
the exhaust pipe in the stern.
The gate valve is accessible through the hatch in
the helmsman’s seat in the cockpit (plate 32), and
whenever you are crossing open water, on sails
alone, this valve should be closed. Needless to
say, however, it is a must when starting the
engine that this valve is open, and, therefore, do not
forget to open the valve before turning the starting
key (see Checking list, paragraph 3.2).
g) Through-hull fittings ,
As a matter of convenience the diagrams 3 A and
B have been prepared to show the location of all the
through-hull fittings which are fitted with gate-
valves. It is, of course, imperative that the Skipper/
Owner makes himself familiar with the location of
these fittings.
29
3) Electrical systems
a) General
12 Volt current is provided throughout. Although
only one high capacity alternator fitted on the
engine is used for charging the batteries, the
electrical system is divided into two separate
circuits, in that the alternator is charging through
double diodes. The double diodes act just
as one-way valves: they let current pass from
the alternator to both batteries simultaneously, but
they do NOT let any current pass in the
opposite direction - from the one battery circuit
to the other. Thus, without having to operate any
complicated system of switches, you are always
sure that no current is taken from the starting
battery as long as you are not turning the starting
key, and unless the emergency switch is switched
on (see paragraph 3.3). Consequently, your
starting battery will always be fresh, and thanks to
the automatically functioning diodes you never have
to fear finding yourself with flat starting batteries
after happy days aboard without engine noise'.
The operating of the electrical systems is described
in the paragraphs 3.3, 3.4 and 3.5.
Plate 33
Wiring Connections - Mast Harness A) Mast Pillar flanged to Coach Roof
B) Mast Harness - Wiring for Top Light and Deck
Flood Light
C) Connections
b) The batteries
The batteries are fitted below the dog-house sole,
and they are accessible through the two hatches
on each side of the engine compartment. The star-
ting battery is fitted to starboard, and the battery
for ship’s service is fitted to port. Both batteries
have a capacity of 90 Ah.
The liquid level in the batteries should be checked
each time the boat is fuelled, and at least once a
month. If necessary, distilled water should be added
until the lead plates are completely covered.
If the batteries require addition of water at frequent
intervals, this may imply that the batteries are being
overcharged. The regulator on the alternator should
then be properly checked for function.
During each of the periodical services to be carried
out every 150 hours (or 3 months) of engine operation,
the batteries should be thoroughly inspected: The
battery posts and cable clamps should be cleaned with
a wire brush and all exposed metal parts of the battery
cable clamps and battery terminals should be given a
light coating of oil, grease or acid-free Vaseline. No
oil should be spilled, however, as this might harm the
battery case.) '
The batteries should be inspected for leakages,
and all terminals, including the batteries themselves,
should be checked that they are properly secured.
c) Wiring diagram
A complete wiring diagram including both electrical
systems is shown in Diagram 4 A and 4 B for
Version A and Version B respectively. All items are
clearly described in English.
It most be noted that the connections for top light,
deck flood light and (Optional) anchor light are
located inside the coach roof covering, accessible
through the small hatch in the ceiling just where
the mast pillar emerges (plate 33). The wiring for
the circuits mentioned above MUST be disconnected
if the mast is to be unstepped.
d) Periodical maintenance
Generally speaking, the electrical systems are free
from maintenance except for the cases already
mentioned (paragraph 4.3.b). Nevertheless the
following notes should be observed:
Damp air and moisture are the main causes of any
trouble with the electrical systems. It is therefore
important that all instrument panels, all connections,
etc. are kept as dry and clean from dirt as
possible. Not only does this concern the decorative
30
panel fronts, but their much more complicated back-
sides as well. A spray can containing a protective
silicone solution or a preserving, penetrating oil
is very handy indeed, and at least twice a year all
exposed metal parts in the electrical system should
be given a thin, protective layer of such a spray.
Spray all connections behind the instrument panels,
and spray all terminals and connections behind
the fuse panel.
e) Bonding - protection against corrosion
It will be observed that particular attention has
been paid to the corrosion problem, and numerous
precautions have been taken to protect against
electrolysis and/ or galvanic corrosion.
As is accepted standard, the D.C. electrical system
has negative grounding. All through-hull fittings
are thoroughly bonded, and all underwater parts are
made of the same or compatible alloys. We would
like to stress that no metal parts should be fitted
to any wet surface of the hull unless bonding is
provided. The bonding is done by interconnecting
all through-hull fittings, engine framing, stern tube
etc., by means of heavy gauge copper strip to
eliminate any electrical potential which may exist
between the various metal fittings in contact with
the current-transporting salt water.
4) The fire extinguishers
Paragraph 3.9 describes the location of the two
manually operated fire extinguishers fitted at the
yard.
As FJORD MS 33 is a purely diesel-engined boat,
carrying nothing but diesel fuel on board except
for small amounts of alcohol for the stove, the two
dry powder extinguishers are considered to be
sufficient in any situation.
The extinguishers have very comprehensive instruc-
tions for operating and maintenance printed directly
on their containers, and these instructions should
be read with care. It is imperative that one be
familiar with how to use the extinguishers, and
that they may be activated within seconds if
necessary. Of course the extinguishers do not
contribute to safety unless they are continuously
kept in order. They must. therefore, be regularly
checked according to the instructions.
5) The steering system
While a mechanical steering system of push-pull-
cable design is fitted in Version A, a hydraulic
31
steering system is provided for Version B.
Two steering positions are standard equipment in
Version B, and each steering position has full
rudder control without any transfer or manipulation
of valves or handles.
Both steering systems are generally maintenance-
free. However, it may be necessary to occasionally
bleed the hydraulic system, and have hydraulic
fluid added. If such service is to be carried out,
please note the following:
Each hydraulic helm pump has its own oil
reservoir. Any topping up should, however, take
place at the steering position in the cockpit only.
Plate 34 shows the wheel pump at the outdoor
steering position with the filler cap unscrewed.
Fluid is added until level with the lower threads
in the filler pipe. When topping up, the equivalent
to the filler cap on the inside steering helm pump
should be carefully loosened by twisting one turn
or so counter-clockwise to release trapped air.
This vent valve should be tightened once airless
fluid escapes.
Every second year the hydraulic fluid should be
changed. The system is drained by loosening
the fittings at the steering cylinder with the filler
cap opened; Follow the instructions of the manu-
facturer when refilling the system.
The top of the rudder shaft, the tiller and the
connections to the push-pull cable or to the
steering cylinder are accessible through the opening
in the bulkhead behind the ladder leading from
the cockpit to the dog-house (the back-plate
of the stowing compartment has to be removed by
unscrewing the wood screws) and/ or through
the helmsman’s seat in the cockpit. For smoothest
possible action, the connections with their
pivoting pins should be greased occasionally
(Plate 35).
6) The rig and the sails
a) General
The FJORD MS 33 is given the simplest possible
masthead rig for ease of handling and maximum
efficiency. A considerable margin of safety was
included when the spars and standing rigging were
designed, and ruggedness has been a key-word
throughout the design work. The big foretriangle
gives you any possibility of setting the optimum
foresail for any condition, while the moderate
mainsail is easily managed in a blow when it
makes a most suitable steadying sail.
b) Stepping the mast and setting the standing
rigging
The mast is stepped on the cabin-top. This is
Plate 34 Topping up Hydraulic Fluid through Filler Cap on
Steering Wheel Pump (version B)
Plate 35 Steering System - Top of Rudder Stock
A) Hydraulic Cylinder Lion Version B)
B) Tiller
C) Stuffing Box
E) Exhaust Line Through-Hull Fitting
32
a very convenient arrangement. although a slightly
heavier mast section has to be chosen than if
the mast is led through to the kelson. Thus, as a
consequence of its moderate length, the mast is
relatively easily handled. When stepping the mast,
see that the mast step on the cabin top is carefully
entered. and be aware of the wiring emerging from
the mast foot. This wiring must carefully be led
through the tube welded to the step, and to avoid
any damage to the wiring, one person should be
downstairs pulling the wiring through the tube
while the mast is lowered carefully until the bottom
of the step is touched (The mast is, as standard,
delivered with an uninsulated heavy gauge steel
wire running from the masthead to the bottom. This
wire is provided to act as guiding-wire in case you
would like to fit electronic gadgets to the mast-
head from which cables have to be drawn. This
wire need not be led through the tube, and may
conviently be left in the mast-foot.)
Before fixing the standing rigging wires to the
chainplates and the fittings at the stem and stern,
see that all turnbuckles are unscrewed until only
5 to 10 threads are left in the shank. A toggle
MUST be fitted between the bottlescrew and the
bolt in the stemhead-fitting, to avoid bending
and thus damaging the turnbuckle when the
forestay is heavily loaded by a pulling Genoa.
The cap-shrouds have to be fixed to the spreaders
by carefully tying them to the spreader-ends by
use of small-diameter rope before taping. Holes are
provided through the spreader-ends for the rope.
We recommend that the cap-shrouds be tightened
thoroughly, while the lowers be left reasonably
slack. This will result in the stick being straight
while under side-loading generated by the sails.
However, in a really rough sea the lowers may be
tightened as well to avoid excessive strain being
put on the fittings and wires. The forestay and
the backstay have to be tightened thoroughly to
get a straight luff, but avoid over-tightening for
any duration.
c) Hoisting the sails and reefing the main
As standard equipment, halliard winches are fitted
for the jib and the main. Winch for the spinnaker
halliard is optional equipment.
On most of the boats built before 1973, a reel
Winch and wire halliard are provided for the main.
When using the reel Winch it should be noted that
the separate groove in the drum provided near
the mast is to be used for the last turns on the
drum before the headboard is at the black band of the
mast head. This arrangement is provided to reduce the
bending moment at the Winch base.
When hoisting the jib, the halliard should be
pulled home completely by means of the drum
Winch before fixing to the cleat. The main, however,
should be hoisted to the black band only, and the
luff should be stretched by pulling the downhaul at
the gooseneck.
When reefing the main, see that the main boom
topping lift is attached to the boom end. Tighten
the topping lift until all strain is taken of the leech.
Then let go the gooseneck downhaul, see that you
have both the crank for the roller reefing gear and
the crank for the main halliard Winch with you
when you let go the first inches of the halliard.
Slacken the main halliard carefully until the goose-
neck slide has reached its bottom position on the
mast-track. Then have the halliard fixed to its
cleat, and crank the roller reefing Worm gear until
the boom has climbed to its upper position. Then
repeat the operation until the desired area of the
main is rolled to the boom. Then tightened the
boom downhaul, let go the topping lift and pull
home the sheet.
When rolling the reefing gear, it is usually conve-
nient to release most of the stress put on the main-
sail by letting go some of the sheet and/ or heading
closer to the wind. See that the leech is left on the
boom with as few wrinkles as possible, and note
that the battens should be taken out of their
pockets when they are close to the boom. No batten
should be allowed to be rolled in with the sail.
When Shaking out the reef, the opposite procedure
should be followed, which ought to be self-explana-
tory.
d) Periodic attentions
Chafing to the sails and running rigging is the
most usual cause of breakdowns at sea. Be aware
of this fact, and see that any chafing is mended
instantly.
Periodically, rigging screws, pins and bolts of mast-
and deck-fittings should be inspected for wear and
tear, and winches, shackles, blocks, turnbuckles etc.
should be lubricated with oil or grease to avoid
drying out and becoming stiff by corrosion and salt
water. The sails should be kept clean and dry.
Make it a rule to check over all turnbuckles and t
fittings where sharp corners, looking pins etc.
are incorporated, and use lots of soft, self-adhesive
tape to protect your sails from being damaged by
such sharp spots. Always carry on board such tape
as well as mending tape for your sails.
33
Maintenance of Exterior and Interior
34
1) Gelcoat
All the glassfibre reinforced polyester (GRP) of
the hull, deck, superstructure and other com-
ponents, is covered by a pigmented layer of
gelcoat where the laminate is exposed to abrasion,
a wet atmosphere or sunshine. The thin layer of
the gelcoat has, itself, no strength. Nevertheless
the gelcoat is an important member of the complete
GRP construction, in that it provides an essential
protection of the laminate against penetrating
moisture and demolishing ultra-violet rays.
At the same time, the gelcoat has the cosmetic
effect of giving the surface a sparkling colour,
which is, of course, a must to obtain the right
appearance.
To keep the protective effect as well as the nice
appearance, the gelcoat should be carefully main-
tained. Look at the gelcoat in the same way as
you look at the enamel of your car, and you will
realize the importance of careful treating.
Every now and then - at least once a year - all
gelcoat should be Washed down by using soap
and water and eventually a detergent specially made
for GRP-boats. After cleaning, the surface should
be waxed and polished, using a wax specially made
for the particular purpose.
Small scratches which are no deeper than the
gelcoat layer itself, i.e. there is still gelcoat left for
protecting the laminate, can be rubbed down to
obtain the glossy look before polishing.
Heavier scratches which will expose the colourless
laminate and the glassfibre itself should be repaired
as soon as possible. The area near the scratch must
be sanded carefully, and a putty made of gelcoat of
the original colour and a filler is used. After the
putty
has hardened, the area has to be rubbed and
polished. Your FJ ORD representative will be
helpful in carrying out repair work like this.
2) Anti-fouling
The MS 33 is delivered with a protective coat of
black anti-fouling applied to the bottom. Before
applying the anti-fouling, the bottom is covered by
an etching primer surface specially made for
GRP boats.
We have experienced, however, that without regard
to the care with which the primer and the antifouling
are applied at our yard, it is impossible to guarantee
that the primer has been able to etch completely
through the microscopic layer of wax or release
agent which might stick to the gelcoat after the
moulding process. Thus, it might happen that –
during the first season -the anti-fouling will loosen
over a limited area.
If it is discovered, after hauling the boat, that some of
the bottom gelcoat is exposed, the area should be
sanded before a new layer of primer surfacer and
anti-fouling are applied. Most manufacturers of marine
coatings are able to furnish an up-to-date etching
primer for GRP, and we recommend the use of a non-
metallic anti-fouling. Just take care to follow the
instructions for the specific paint used.
On FJORD MS 33, anti-fouling is applied up to a
line marked out in the gelcoat itself, clearly visible.
Located slightly above the deepest possible waterline,
this limiting line of the anti-fouling will ensure that
you always have anti-fouling above the actual water-
line, which is desirable.
It is usual to apply the bottom paint on all under-
water metal surfaces except for the propeller shaft
and propeller. If your local waters demand the fitting
of zinc anodes to protect against galvanic effects,
these anodes must NOT be painted.
3) Deck fittings and hardware
A damp and salty atmosphere is very demanding
on all chromium plating, stainless steel and anodized
aluminium if the surfaces are going to resist the tough
chemical attacks. On all FJ ORD boats, only the
highest quality of fittings and hardware are used.
Nevertheless it cannot be avoided that miscolouring
might appear because of some sort of oxidation. All
the metal fittings on deck should, therefore, occasio-
nally be washed down with household cleaner, waxed
and polished. The chromium plating and the stainless
steel surface may get a sparkling appearance by using
cleaning liquids developed for the automobile
industry.
When preserving for winter lay-up, all deck fittings
and hardware should be carefully washed and clea-
ned and then covered by a thin layer of acid-free
vaseline or equivalent. A suitable spray with
protective qualities may be used. but be sure that
the protective cover can be easily removed when
preparing for the next season.
4) Woodwork
Teak is used throughout the interior of your
FJORD MS 33. Externally. a careful selection of
teak and the beautiful wood, Iroko, has been chosen.
When varnishing teak-wood - and to some degree
the Iroko as well - special precautions have to be
taken because of the unique composition of oil and
resin in the wood structure. At FJ ORD a special
technique is developed for applying the varnish to
give a smooth, long-lasting finish.
35
The top layers of varnish consist of a two compon-
ent polyurethane resin. The wood on deck is given
a glossy finish, while all the interior surfaces are
matted down to give the famous satin-like lustre.
All exterior woodwork should be carefully
maintained
by treatment with auto polish or the like. If you get
scratches in the surface penetrating the varnish,
repair work should be carried out as soon as possi-
ble.
When repairing, first clean carefully with suitable
cleaner which will remove all dirt and polish (use
coal-tar naphta or the like). Sand down by using
fine grain sandpaper (e.g. No. 150) until smooth,
and apply two or three coats of two-component
polyurethane varnish. A varnish with matt finish
may well be used for interior repair work, but high-
gloss varnish must be used externally. Sand care-
fully between each layer. If a varnish with high gloss
is used internally, rub it down thoroughly with fine
steel wool dipped in a little linseed oil when com-
pletely hardened, and the smooth, satin finish will
be obtained.
When laying-up your boat for the winter, wash off
all salt water from the woodwork, clean it and
apply thoroughly a protective layer of wax (or car
polish).
5) Floor covering in dog-house
The covering of the floor in the dog-house is made
of PVC. It should normally be cleaned by washing
with household soaps followed by thorough flushing,
preferably with fresh water, Wash regularly, and do
not let any dirt settle.
If necessary, mineral turpentine may be used for
removing local spots, but be careful and avoid
mineral turpentine on the black ”seams”. Flush
immediately with fresh water.
Do NOT use any solvent like Acetone, Trichlore-
thylene or thinner. These fluids may dissolve the
surface of the covering.
6) Carpeting
All carpets are made of 100% synthetic fibre
(Polyamide), specially treated to avoid static
electricity. Consequently the maintenance of
the carpeting is reduced to a minimum.
A vacuum-cleaner should be used regularly to
avoid any dirt penetrating deeply into the soft
structure. Dirt which cannot be removed by the
use of the vacuum-cleaner or a dry cloth, should
be treated carefully by the use of a sponge or a
soft cloth and small amounts of lukewarm water
With foamy household cleaner in it. Let the sponge
or cloth do the job of absorbing the dirt, and do
not rub! Any mess should be removed immediately
Moisture Will not do any harm to the carpet itself.
Nevertheless, to avoid an uncomfortable and damp
atmosphere, always keep the carpeting dry. Of
course a Wet carpet might spoil the Wooden floor
itself.
7) Vinyl covering
All Wall covering, ceilings and exterior
upholstery are made of PVC and should be treated
in the same Way as the cockpit floor covering.
However, the use of mineral turpentine should be
avoided.
To clean, Wipe over With a soft cloth dampened in
mild soap and Water solution. If the mild soap and
Water does not remove the dirt, a weak solution of
spirit of sal-ammoniac and lukewarm water can be
used. For the interior Wall covering and lining,
alcohol and petrol can be used for cleaning, but
petrol should not be used in connection with the
soft upholstery used for the exterior. Avoid the use 1
solvents like Acetone, Trichlorethylene and thinner.
All spots should be removed immediately.
8) Interior upholstery
Interior upholstery is Woven of 70% Rayon and
30% pure Wool.
For daily maintenance, clean by Wiping over With
a cloth dampened in fresh Water. This is normally
all that is needed to keep the fabric in shape. Mild
soap can be used if necessary, but avoid soaking
the fabric.
Hand washing of the fabric in lukewarm water and
mild soap can be done if the fabric is removed
from the cushions. Great care has to be taken when
drying the fabric to avoid shrinkage, and the fabric
has to be treated as if it were made of pure Wool.
We recommend, however, that chemical cleansing
be applied.
9) Curtains
The curtains are Woven of a composition of cotton
and synthetic fibre (Rayon).
The curtain should be cleaned by chemical process.
The curtains are hung in slides and tracks of the
Silent Gliss system. The fabric itself is easily
removed from the tracks fm cleaning.