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Project photo on page 49; instructions on page 84 of Stitch Winter 2015.pieced dressflirty paper
PATTERN
by MICHELLE ABEGG
PHOTO BY DONALD SCOTT
WINTER 2015
Piecing is a fun way to combine a traditional technique with a classic fit and flare dress with a circle skirt. The patchwork for this dress is paper pieced, and the circle skirt is made up of four quadrants which are each made of six pieced strips. The skirt strips are placed differently in each quadrant to create a graduated pieced effect.
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WINTER 2015 patternGETTING STARTED BASIC TECHNIQUES AND TERMS YOU’LL NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PATTERN YOU HAVE DOWNLOADED.
BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.
CUTTING LINES Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.
PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam.
GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.
NOTCHES Notches are triangle-shaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor-responding notches.
DARTS Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).
PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pat-tern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole.
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (some-times appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.
PATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGSASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT
1 | When prepar-ing to print the PDF, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be “None”) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled “Auto-Rotate and Center” is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF reader, check for similar settings).2 | To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm).3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page.4 | The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol-low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES
1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 | Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.4 | Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 | Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted.6 | Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing.7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed.8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
TEST SQUARE2" 2" [5 5 CM]
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxxX
L
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
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F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
WINTER 2015
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cutting layoutWINTER 2015
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
45" liningXS, S
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress45" lining
XS-S ⅝ yd
LEFT BACK BODICE (D)
RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)
RIGHT SIDE BACK BODICE (G)
LEFT SIDE BACK BODICE (H)
LEFT SIDE FRONT BODICE (F)
RIGHT SIDE FRONT BODICE (E)
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A)
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B)
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
09-13-15
Pieced Dress45” Lining
All sizes 5/8 yd.Selvedge
Selvedge
60" liningAll Sizes
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress60" lining
All Sizes ⅝ yds
LEFT BACK
BOD
ICE (D)
RIGH
T BACK
BOD
ICE (C)
RIGH
T SIDE
BACK BO
DICE (G
)
LEFT SIDE
BACK BO
DICE (H
)
LEFT SIDE
FRON
T BOD
ICE (F)
RIGH
T SIDE
FRON
T BOD
ICE (E)
RIGH
T FRON
T BO
DICE (A)
LEFT FRON
T BO
DICE (B)
SELVEDG
E
SELVEDG
E
09-13-15
Pieced Dress
59” Lining
XS-XL 5/8 yds.
Selvedge
Selvedge
45" liningM-XL
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress45" lining
M-XL 1 yd
LEFT BACK BODICE (D)
RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)
RIGHT SIDE BACK BODICE (G)
LEFT SIDE BACK BODICE (H)
LEFT SIDE FRONT BODICE (F)
RIGHT SIDE FRONT BODICE (E)
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A)
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B)
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
09-13-15
Pieced Dress45” Lining
All sizes 1 yd.
Selvedge
Selvedge
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cutting layoutWINTER 2015
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
60" fusibleAll Sizes
Flirty Paper Pieced Dress60" fusible
All Sizes 3¾ yds
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
09-13-15
Pieced Dress60” Fusible
All sizes 3 3/4 yds.
Selvedge
Selvedge
Flirty Paper Pieced DressAll sizes
09-13-15
Pieced Dress
Pieced panel / Skirt layout
A B C D E F
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dressFlirty Paper Pieced
FLIRTY PA
PER PIECED
DR
ESS
1a1b
1c1d
2a
2b
2c
2d
1e1f
1g
2f
2g
2e
1e1f
1g
2f
2g
2e
2h
XS,S,M,L,XL
LEFT FRONT BODICE (B)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIGHT BACK BODICE (C)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIG
HT B
AC
K SID
E BO
DIC
E (G)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
LEFT BACK BODICE (D)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XS,S,M,L,XL
FLIRTY PA
PERPIECED
DR
ESSLEFT B
AC
K SID
E BO
DIC
E (H)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIGHT FRONT SIDE BODICE (E)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XS,S
,M,L
,XL
RIG
HT
FRO
NT
BO
DIC
E (A
)cu
t 1 m
ain,
fabr
ic r
ight
sid
e up
cut 1
lini
ng, f
abri
c w
rong
sid
e up
FLIR
TY P
APE
RPI
ECED
DR
ESS
FLIRTY PA
PERPIECED
DR
ESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XS,S,M,L,XL
LEFT FRONT SIDE BODICE (F)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XL L M S XS
WINTER 2015
Flirty Paper Pieced DressBodice
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS
1a 1b 1c
2a 2b 2c 2d
3a 3b 3c 3d
4a 4b 4c 4d
3e
4e
5a 5b 5c 5d 5e
6a 6b 6c 6d 6e
3e
4f
5f
6f
7a 7b 7c 7d 7e 7f
XS,S,M,L,XL
SKIRT (I)
cut 4
from piece
d panels
XLL
MS
XS
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL FCreat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL ECreat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL DCreat four panel from fabric squares XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL CCreat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL BCreat four panel from fabric squares
XS,S,M,L,XL
A1
A2
A3
A4
B1
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
B2
B3
B4
E1 F1
F2
F3
F4
E2
E3
E4
D2
D1
D3
D4
PANEL ACreat four panel from fabric squares
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
Flirty Paper Pieced DressSkirt
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS
1a
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIGHT BACK SIDE BODICE (G)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
XLL
MS
XS
1b
XS,S
,M,L
,XL
LEFT
FR
ON
T B
OD
ICE
(B)
cut 1
mai
n, fa
bric
rig
ht s
ide
upcu
t 1 li
ning
, fab
ric
wro
ng s
ide
up
FLIR
TY P
APE
RPI
ECED
DR
ESS
1c 1d
1d
XS,S
,M,L
,XL
RIG
HT
BA
CK
BO
DIC
E (C
)cu
t 1 m
ain,
fabr
ic r
ight
sid
e up
cut 1
lini
ng, f
abri
c w
rong
sid
e up
FLIR
TY P
APE
RPI
ECED
DR
ESS
1e1e
1f 1g 1f 1g
XS,S,M,L,XL
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
LEFT BACK SIDE BODICE (H)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
1g 1g
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIGHT FRONT BODICE (A)cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
2a
2b
XS,S
,M,L
,XL
LEFT
BA
CK
BO
DIC
E (D
)cu
t 1 m
ain,
fabr
ic r
ight
sid
e up
cut 1
lini
ng, f
abri
c w
rong
sid
e up
FLIR
TY P
APE
RPI
ECED
DR
ESS
2c 2dXS
,S,M
,L,X
Lcu
t 1 li
ning
, fab
ric
wro
ng s
ide
up
2d
2e2e
XS,S,M,L,XL
RIG
HT FR
ON
T SIDE B
OD
ICE (E)
cut 1 main, fabric right side up
cut 1 lining, fabric wrong side up
FLIRTY PA
PERPIECED
DR
ESS
2f 2g 2f 2g
2g 2g
XS,S
,M,L
,XL
LEFT
FR
ON
T SI
DE
BO
DIC
E (F
)cu
t 1 m
ain,
fabr
ic r
ight
sid
e up
cut 1
lini
ng, f
abri
c w
rong
sid
e up
FLIR
TY P
APE
RPI
ECED
DR
ESS
2h
FLIRTY PAPER PIECED DRESS
1a
XLL
MS
XS
1b
1c
2a
2b
2c 2d
2d
3a
3b
XS,S,M,L,XL
SKIRT (I)
cut 4
from piece
d panels
FLIRTY PAPER
PIECED DRESS
3c 3d
3d
3e3e
4a
D4
4b
E4
4c 4d
F4
4d
A4
4e
4f
C5
5a
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL DCreat four panel from fabric squares
D3
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
5b
E2
E3
5c 5d
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL FCreat four panel from fabric squares
F3
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
5d
XS,S,M,L,XL
A3
A4
PANEL ACreat four panel from fabric squares
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
5e
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL BCreat four panel from fabric squares
B3
B4
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
5f
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL CCreat four panel from fabric squares
C3
C4
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
6a
7a
D2
D1
6b
7b
XS,S,M,L,XL
PANEL ECreat four panel from fabric squares
FLIRTY PAPERPIECED DRESS
6c 6d
7c 7d
F2
6d
7d
A2
6e
7e
B2
6f
7f
C2
7a D1
7b E1
7c 7dF1
7d
A1
7e
B1
7f
C1