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The word on everybody’s mouth this
fashion week was the fight of titans: Dior
vs. YSL, Raf Simons vs Heidi Slimane.
The final verdict is that both played safe,
and went old school into the archives of
the legendary brands they now repre-
sent.
And what did they find you might ask?
The same thing everybody else it
seems: The tailored jacket. This little
empowering piece was all over the
runways; big shouldered at Balmain,
flowery prints at Etro, and with his
signature deconstructed style at Yohji
Yamamoto.Yamamoto. Even the young designers
like David Longshaw, Zero + Maria
Cornejo, and the very colorful Libertine,
have adopted the trend.
We are addicted to the tailored jacket,
and that’s all the truth. From Prada to
Primark they are everywhere, simply
because they still have the power to say
smart, confident, businesswoman.
With a very masculine attitude, and
larger than life shoulder pads in the 80s,
our jacket was the key piece in the
“dress for success” look. Thierry Mugler
and Claude Montana were incorpora-
ting the shoulder pads trend by the end
of the 70s, but it wasn’t until the next
couplecouple of years that this particular sil-
houette was everywhere. The coolest
was to wear extra-long jackets, with
men shirts to look like a tough, imposing
woman. Who can forget Madonna with
her extra large leather jacket in her
“virgin tour” or Molly Ringwald the ulti
mate 80s teen idol, in her big pretty in
pink jacket, even the most stylish
models like Christy Turlington, and
Grace Jones were using suit jackets to
declare her power to the world. The
curvy, feminine figure was being repla-
ced by androgynous, masculine
shapes; adorned in striped suits women
reached the highest positions in all the
major corporations.
Power Dressing Again?
Dior S
/S 2013
YSL S/S 2013
Thierry Mugler
Zero + Maria Cornejo S/S 2013
Years before that around the 1920s, the
jacket was interpreted A la Garçon in the
boyish, unpretentious style of Coco
Chanel. She was the first designer that
took inspiration in the masculine attire
and translated it in to pieces for the
woman wardrobe; she created clothes
thatthat were comfortable, wearable, and
simple but without making them in any
way ugly, she just brought her “less is
more” flair to everything she created.
The radical changes she proposed in
fashion were so powerful, that even
today most garments are inspired by her
work. work.
Nevertheless the mother of the
legendary jacket is the Edwardian jacket
that young, free spirited young woman
used, way before Chanel, in the Belle
Époque era.
The Edwardian jacket was the must
have piece in the masculine wardrobe
during the Belle Époque; it was a little
longer than the modern day suit jackets,
very fitted, with some flare at the back
and at the sides. Fashionable gentlemen
went shopping for it to Savile Road,
wherewhere the respected tailors were.
Women were struggling to be accepted
in the world of business, so they started
wearing the Edwardian jacket too, to
blend in more with the businessmen.
The curious thing is that this was also the
time of the flower girls, with the S-shaped,
corseted, dresses. So in the end women
first suits had a very feminine, flowery, frou
frou air; it came in many colours, full of
pretty details, with gigantic gigot sleeves,
and combined with a long matching skirt
andand a big hat. But it was wearing this jacket
that the first entrepreneurs, designers,
suffragettes, scientists and writers
conquered the first rights for women. Very
soon the jacket began to be very
fashionable amongst the woman of both
aristocracy and bourgeoisie.
Constantly evolving and adapting to
trends, over the last hundred years the
garment has gone from a rebellious look to
a stylish must have, and even a red carpet
look. From Marlene Dietrich to Tilda
Swinton, androgynous stars favor the suit
look, but even more feminine style icons
likelike Blake Lively and Olivia Wilde have
used a tailored jacket inspired outfit to rock
the carpet.
We have seen the tailored jacket invented
and reinvented, in every decade and every
fashion since the beginning of the 20th
century. All the famous designers created
a version of it, politicians and pop idols
have been seen wearing it. Adapted to
every style and with so many individual
possibilities,possibilities, there is a tailored jacket for
every woman. So, power dress again?
Yes, but this time you know you want it too.
Tilda Swinton / Haider Ackerman
Christian Dior
Coco Chanel
Edwardian Dress
Blake Lively / Gucci
When a person doesn’t go to work money is lost; the company looses, the restaurant that sells the sandwich for lunch looses, the cupcake store that sells the mid afternoon treat looses, the shop that sells the “reward for a long day at work” shoes looses; but when thousands of people don’t go to work the money that is lost is abysmal.
ManyMany retailers launched special online sales, probably trying to make up for the gigantic economical blow suffered. Citizens expressed their outrage with the incitation to shop online during the storm to pass the time that stores like Gap, Anthropology and Barneys were instigating to increase the sales. Yet the store that really got the anger of the people was American Apparel that offeredoffered a Sandy Sale especially for the people in the affected states. It was considered very insensible to the people who were actually suffering all the rage of the hurricane.
But as New Yorkers were desperate to go back to shopping, to reward themselves probably for surviving a natural disaster, lines in the first stores opening around in Manhattan were increasingly large, so we can forecast a shiny future, for the fashion losses at least, to get recovered during the next days and trough the holiday season.
Every girl dream come truth is not marrying the perfect millionaire guy, or living in a fairy tale castle, is actually to eat without getting fat. And sure enough there are scientists working on the cure for chubbiness but until they do, the only answer for the less fortunate is to work out.
Running,Running, cycling, push-ups, lifting weight, the usual options, can be very boring, and soon you start making up excuses not to do them like, I’m kinda sick, or I ate too much at lunch, totally comprehensible, exercises are hard and dull and you lose so little weight, after a lot of effort; luckily there are many new options every day to burn calories, and still have some fun.
SlackliningIsIs walking, balancing and making some tricks (when you are very good) on a line. It requires a lot of concentration to keep your body stable, so you won’t fall of the line; you need to be very firm and focused on what you’re doing, exercisingexercising your core muscles and your mind at the same time. You need to be very perseverant because it may take a few tries to get the trick, but once you do, you ll feel like you can do anything. Some of the poses that you get to do are veryvery similar to yoga positions, so you ll be getting the same benefits, like hard and toned muscles, flexibility, core strength and inner peace.
TRXOrOr Tension Resistance Exercise, is basically a flexible
nylon strap with a handle at the end, that you have to
pull with a certain force to work the muscles. It looks
very simple but you can move in many different ways
while pulling the strap, so you will be training many parts
of your body at the same time. It strengthens the
muscles enormously making them firm and toned but
withoutwithout making you look like a bulky man. This tool
would make you work your entire body, all the core
muscles are engaged in the activity summing up power
from the weirdest places. The activity helps you build
stamina and gain balance and agility, its perfect to lose
weight, but also to strengthen the flabby parts of the
body, TRX allows you to create a lot of positions
dependingdepending on your ability, and the areas you want to
work and since you have to be very stable and firm
during the practice, it will require a lot of concentration
so you ll forget about your problems for the whole time
you’re training.
Antigravity yogaThisThis exercise is a great fusion of yoga, gymnastics, dance and aerial disciplines. The basic difference with traditional Yoga is that you get to do all positions inside an antigravity hammock, which is a mix of swing and a trapeze. This new twist allows the participants to feel like their floating, but at the same time gives them a much better understanding ofof their body, and the way it works. The hammock allows people to get the more difficult positions easier and better, with a much more precise alignment of the vertebrae, and the hanging upside positions you get to do, are great for refreshing your body, regulating your metabolism, improving blood flow and of course strengthening the abdominal area. area.
Dragon FightThisThis is a much more energetic discipline than the others. If you don t like calm, quiet activities this one is for you. Dragon Fight is a very fast paced, choreographed fight; you will be doing series of punch and kicks in a determinate order. It is a very demanding activity because you will have to be very concentrated on every movement, and then rememberremember the exact order of them, while using all your strength in the fight. Yes, is all about coordination and power. In reward you will be burning calories like crazy, eliminating cellulitis, building up muscles, acquiring fighting skills (quite useful to be able to defend yourself in case of an attack), helping your cardiovascular system and releasing a lot of accumulated tension.accumulated tension.Being fit is never easy; it requires a lot of effort and determination, but don’t give up the first time you feel exhausted, sweaty, and still chubby, because working out gives you a great a body, makes you feel good about yourself, and as Elle Woods reminds us generates endorphins, and endorphins makes us happy. There are tons of other fun disciplines that you can try for losing weight and not die trying.
He enrolled in the prestigious Parsons
the New School of design, in New York,
he decided to leave in his sophomore
year and launch his own ready to wear
line. With a characteristic deconstructed
silhouette, and a casual downbeat vibe
using structured lines and a colour-less
palettepalette he quickly created a unique style
that distinguished him from the
thousands of other aspiring designers.
In no time the fashion crowd started to
notice him, his fresh approach to
fashion was exactly what people was
looking for. He won the CFDA/Vogue
FashionFashion fund in 2007, the Swarovski
womenswear designer of the year in
2009 and 2010, and the title “The
Aluminati” from Vogue.
But who is Alexander Wang and why they
choose him?
But fashion is full of this marvelous
stories of success, so why him?
According to Francois-Henri Pinault,
chairman of PPR “Alexander Wang
will use his creativity and his own
research to reinterpret and
immortalize the distinctive, modern
andand extremely innovative style
imposed by Cristobal Balenciaga,”
and Isabelle Guichot, president and
chief executive of Balenciaga,
commented on Wang’s “modernity
and his individual and cosmopolitan
vision of design” But there may be
otherother reasons for this shocking
appointment.
First he is clearly a great
businessman, both of the lines he
personally runs Alexander Wang, the
ready to wear womenswear line and
T by Alexander Wang a diffusion line
of pre-weathered cotton tees, tanks,
and T-shirt dresses, have great sale
numbersnumbers even in the current
economic recession, and great
international reception, with stores
in America, Europe and Asia and
shipping to over 50 countries all
around the world. Also the 3 major
collaborations he has done so far,
withwith Uniqlo, Keds, and most recently
with Sally Hansen have been
complete sell outs.
Spring Summer 2009
Autumm Winter Spring Summer Autumm Winter
2009/10 2010 2010/11
It´s also probable that his Chinese
roots influenced the decision;; he
speaks perfect mandarin and fully
understands the culture, giving him a
unique competitive advantage when
approaching the growing Asiatic
market, Balenciaga already has 10
storesstores in China and it will be a great
image to have Wang as a leading
designer to push forward the brand.
His age can also be a determinant
factor for choosing him;; the most
recent high profile designer
recruitments, Saint Laurent and Dior,
were exactly what you could expect,
French, respected, experienced and
in their mid-forties (The age of
reason)reason) but the reviews were hardly
merciful and both Spring-Summer
collections were not received well by
the critics.
Maybe RRP is looking for a reaction more like when John Galliano was first appointed for
Givenchy or Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, both designers were young, daring and
foreigners, all these components were the recipe for success in the firms they were
representing, the risqué factor of choosing someone nobody is expecting, creates
excitement and expectation like nothing else, everybody is already looking forward for
Wang´s debut collection.
The obsession the fashion world’s
been having with the 50s decades
was a clear inspiration for Stacie
Bendet when designing her
Spring/Summer collection; the idea
of the perfect woman, the American
dream, and the optimism of the late
1950´s1950´s are reflected on every look.
From the upbeat, fun music mixed
by the DJs Caitlin Moran and Mia
Moretti, to the dreamy backgrounds
and the cat’s-eye sunglasses worn
by the models, the ambient was in
perfect harmony with the happy
vibe of the era.vibe of the era.
It’s ever so refreshing to have something completely
different than the standard catwalk show in the fashion
week circuit, and with Alice + Olivia you feel like you just
walked into the set of a movie where the collection plays
the leading role.
Cinched waists, A-Line skirts, cigarette trousers, pastel colors and flirty bustiers dominated the show. The designer kept the most iconic silhouettes of the decade, and brought them to life with a modern interpretation, thinking of a more youthful dynamic woman.
ThereThere were many different prints and patterns; big flowers, little flowers, leopard, stripes, dots, geometrical patterns, birds and even a pop-art inspired face.
KeyKey pieces of the collection are the divine tulip skirt gown; its unique shape and the spattered paint print, made this dress one of a kind. The Bustier with the matching skirt in primary colored stripes, this look screams Lolita in the most stylish way possible.
Another look that got a lot of attention, was the orange biker jacket paired with the white gaucho trousers; this was probably the most relaxed outfit of the whole.
AndAnd for this season the brand decided to expand a little bit more the accessories line, with a new line of bags; everyday totes, swagger pouches, and Lucile clutches filled with outfit matching candies were the pioneers in this incursion.
"As a designer today, part of my job is to pick a trend and to design the clothes, but I also need to create a way for my customers to be individuals." Bendet com-mented to Jessica Minkoff, journalist for Style.com, but it seems that she tried to pick too many trends, mixing a variety of fabrics and silhouettes she created a collection that overall turned out in cohesive.
It was only glued by the combination of pastel and pri-mary colours inspired by the work of the Russian-American artist Ilya Bolotowski.
In the ten years the young label has in the market they have created a very singular A+0 girl. With a quirk sense of style, and a playful creativity, Stacie Bendet has become the master of the cocktail dress for the young, elegant yet eclectic girl, the casual sophistication she brings to the pieces makes them a very clever option to keep a cool attitude while lookinglooking good and polished, no wonder the brand is becoming a favorite of the young A-listers like Lauren Conrad, Abigail Breslin, Dakota Fanning and Taylor Swift.
Tired of buying the
same things in the
same stores all the
time? Maybe is time
to hit one of the most
visited markets in
East London and get
somethingsomething really
unique. The Old
Spitalfields market is
famous for having an
important collection
of vintage pieces
owners, alongside
youngyoung designers, cute
accessories dealers
and artists. With live
music almost every
day, international
food kiosks, and some
pretty interesting
characters,characters, the
market has a great
ambiance and a really
cool vibe to look
around the stores for
that perfect thing you
were looking for (or
not).not).
What started last summer as a way to help the students of Winchester School of Art, where the founder is a Fashion & Textile Design teacher, has become one of the most popular twitter account amongst the fashion students.students. Sharon Williams was looking for an idea to use the social network in a meaningful, useful way, and she definitely found it.
Constantly promoting internships and graduate jobs, in the most professional and socially responsible way the site has built an amazing reputation amongst high profile fashion recruiters. With everyday more offers and followersfollowers @Ukfashionintern is going .com launching a brand new website offering a more organized and friendly experience for the job seekers.
At the end of the interview they
offered her the internship but for
the full term only. She told them
that she would need to think
about it and get back to them the
next day if they were happy to
accept that. They did. I heard
fromfrom a third party that they were
shocked as no intern had ever
said that before. She got back to
them and apologized as she really
could only offer two thirds of the
time as first anticipated. They
accepted.
JustJust before going to work for
them she was diagnosed with a
very nasty chronic illness. As she
had such a strong work ethic she
stuck to her commitment whilst
dealing with the realization that
she needed to change her lifestyle
andand way of living due to the
illness. The internship involved far
too much responsibility, it
included running a department for
two weeks whilst the key
members travelled to the Chinese
factories, she was their only UK
cover. cover.
I tried to watch the first one with
what researchers call a 'kind
mind' and I noticed that the
interns were entertained by what
was going on about them. They
were in a farce that they could
step out of again at the end of
theirtheir internship. I know this as I
have been in the same situation...
you're not there really taking
part, it is happening around you,
it is a bit of a laugh.
Overall it is not healthy for the
industry to be seen in this way
and for interns to be stereotyped
as potential unpaid 'dogsbodies'.
But dying your hair pink is not only to show some attitude;
you could also be supporting a good cause. The non-profit
organization, SO.CAP.USA offers a range of pink hair
extensions whose earnings will go straight to Breast Cancer
research foundations. So if you´re in for the good or just for
the fun, it’s time to feel Pretty in Pink!
SureSure enough this trend has been around for a
quite a while, the mother of the style is Zandra
Rhodes, the flamboyant fashion designer, and
long lasting fashion icon has worn her hair pink
since the punk era. Later in the 80s, Cyndi
Lauper wore her true colors, with her signature
blonde and pink hair do, then the ultimate
feministfeminist heroine of the 90s, Gwen Stefani, wore
her hair shocking pink with a perfectly white
wedding dress for the very first No-Doubt video,
this look catapulted her to fame, and more
recently the controversial pop star P!NK made
the pink hair, her distinctive sign.
Evolving from neon pink, like the one rebellious,
quirky teenagers like to wear, to a more stylish
pastel shade; from shy dip-dyed ponytails to
pink washed curls, there are many options in just
one colour. Not that often you get the chance to
try such a silly thing, and still feel like an
Über-cool Daphne Guinness.
1. You need to be blonde, natural or not, the dye will only work in light blonde hair.
2. Keep in hand a mixing bowl, a colour applicator, and the pink colored dye.
3. 3. Blend the dye with any conditioner until you get a nice pastel shade mix.
4. Apply this mix all over your hair, in the most even way possible, and be careful not to leave any spot.
5. 5. Leave it for an hour if you want a strong colour, or just for half an hour if you want it lighter.
6. Rinse it with a lot of cold water, until it comes clear again.
7. Don’t wash your hair every day to make the colour last longer.
dictiona
ryFASHIONTREND