8
FORMULIENCE ™ PolyAquol ™ 2 W naturally emulsifying ™
FORMULIENCE™
PolyAquol™2Wnaturally emulsifying™
Key features
Molecular basis
Dermatologicalaction
Non-ionic, PEG-free
Naturally derived
Completely self-emulsifying
Independent of HLB
Compatible with oils of various polarity
Wide pH range compatibility
Can be added in water or oil phase
Generates liquid crystal structures
Protects and repairs skin barrier function
Liquid crystal formation by PolyAquol™–2W (400X)
Proposed interaction of PolyAquol™-2W with the lipid layers of the stratum corneum
The molecular configuration of the main component of PolyAquol™–2W allows for an interaction with the lipidic matrix of the stratum corneum
PolyAquol™–2W could help stabilizing the integrity of the skin barrier function
O
O
O
O O
OH OH
OH
HO
HO
HO
HO
O O
O
OH OH
HO
O
O
O
O
O
O
OO
OH
OH
OH
OH
OH OHOH
OH
OHOH
Lipophilic environment between aliphatic chains trapping
the “oil phase”
Hydrogen bond interactions between individual
components
Hydrophilic environment created by hydrogen bonds holding
the “water phase”
Bright field illumination Polarized light
O
O O
HO
HO OH
Performance and emulsifying properties
PolyAquol™–2W and standard emulsifiers – high viscosity and superior stability
PolyAquol™–2W outperforms standard O/W emulsifiers in providing stable emulsions with high viscosity
PolyAquol™–2W and polyglycerol-based emulsifiers – superior efficacy
PolyAquol™–2W out performs polyglycerol-based emulsifiers in providing stable emulsions with high viscosity
PolyAquol™–2W emulsifies oils up to a 1:4 ratio without the need for thickeners
EmulsifierVegetable
oilViscosity
(cPs)*Stability
(1 month at 50°C)
3%
Polyglyceryl-3- Distearate
12%
3 600 Unstable
Polyglyceryl-3- Methylglucose Distearate
1 550 Unstable
PolyAquol™–2W 6 300 3Stable
5%
Polyglyceryl-3- Distearate
20%
5 350 Unstable
Polyglyceryl-3- Methylglucose Distearate
3 250 Unstable
PolyAquol™–2W 18 000 3Stable
* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm
0
3 5
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
14000
16000
18000
20000
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
Emulsifier concentration (%)
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
PolyAquol™–2W
0
5 10
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
Vegetable oil concentration (%)
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20
PolyAquol™–2W
EmulsifierVegetable
oilViscosity
(cPs)*Stability
(1 month at 50°C)
5%
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
5%
300 Unstable
Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20
4 500 Unstable
PolyAquol™–2W 7 500 3Stable
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
10%
1 600 Unstable
Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20
7 300 Unstable
PolyAquol™–2W 10 400 3Stable
* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm
Addition to water or oil phase to obtain a gel or an emulsion
0
5% 10%
5000
10000
15000
20000
25000
20%
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
Oil concentration (%)
Cyclomethicone
Paraffinum Liquidum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Addition of PolyAquol™–2W to water – Gel formation and pH stability
PolyAquol™–2W self-emulsifies in water forming a stable gel
PolyAquol™–2W is compatible in a pH range from 4 to 9
Addition of PolyAquol™–2W to the oil phase of an emulsion – High viscosity without thickener
PolyAquol™–2W (5%) can be added to the oil phase forming high viscosity emulsions
PolyAquol™–2W can achieve high viscosity system without any thickener
PolyAquol™–2W pH Centrifugation (5000 rpm, 60’)
Viscosity (cPs)*
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
3%
4.18 OK 2 300 3
6.06 OK 2 350 3
8.47 OK 1 925 3
5%
4.20 OK 9 250 3
5.87 OK 10 650 3
8.90 OK 6 500 3* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm
0
3% 5%
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
PolyAquol™–2W (%)
pH 8.50 - 9.00
pH 5.50 - 6.00
pH 4.00 - 4.50
Compatibility with thickeners
PolyAquol™–2W (3%) was formulated with different concentrations of a vegetable oil in the presence of various thickeners
PolyAquol™–2W (3%) was formulated with different concentrations of an ester in the presence of various thickeners
Electrolyte tolerance
PolyAquol™–2W (5%) was formulated with different concentrations of NaCl
PolyAquol™–2W is tolerant to electrolytes (NaCl) in terms of viscosity and emulsion stability
* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm
PolyAquol™–2W Vegetable oil Thickener % Stability(1 month at 50°C)
3%
12%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
17%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
22%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
PolyAquol™–2W Ester Thickener % Stability(1 month at 50°C)
3%
12%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
17%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
22%
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
% NaClViscosity
(cPs)*Stability
(1 month at 50°C)
0 (control) 10 400 3
0.5 11 200 3
1.0 11 700 3
2.0 11 200 3
Dermatogical efficacy
PolyAquol™–2W prevents UV-induced skin barrier disruption
PolyAquol™–2W accelerates barrier recovery when applied post-UV
Maintenance and repair of compromised barrier functionPreventive protocol – pre-treatment
Repair of UV-induced skin barrier function lossproducts applied after UV exposure – post-treatment
Actions of PolyAquol™–2W on the skin barrier integrity
PolyAquol™–2W
UV-induced barrier function damage
Increase in TEWL
Preventive and repair action
Maintenance of barrier function integrity
UV radiation causes breaches in the epidermal barrier leading to an excessive trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The molecular structure of PolyAquol™–2W most likely allows for a repair action sealing breaches and preventing skin dehydration.
Day
Assessment of TEWL
10
Baseline Effect of pre-treatment
Product applications
11 12
UV
0 1 Day
Assessment of TEWL
10
Baseline Effect of post-treatment
Product application
12 13
24h1h30’ 2h
UV
0 1 11
Control
Varia
tion
in T
EW
L (%
)vs
bas
elin
e **
0
10
30
20
60
50
40
70
80
90
**p<0.01
PolyAquol™–2W 30 min. 1 hour 2 hours 24 hours
Varia
tion
in T
EW
L (%
)vs
bas
elin
e** **
*
**
0
-20
-5
-10
-15
-25
5
**p<0.01 **p<0.05Control PolyAquol™–2W
PolyAquol™–2WPolyAquol™–2W (patent pending) is an amalgam of 3 selected components in a precise ratio allowing inter-molecular interactions between each of them. The aliphatic chains – mainly composed of stearic acid derivatives – trap oil droplets while the hy-drophilic heads interact with water through hydrogen bonds. This leads to highly stable O/W emulsions with numerous applications. The novelty of PolyAquol™–2W resides in its autonomous emulsifying action without the need of external stabilizer or co-emulsifier. Working independently from the HLB system, it can added to the water phase as well as to the oil phase to generate liquid crystals. In addition to its unique emulsifying capabilities outperforming comparators, PolyAquol™–2W possesses phys-iological properties. Most likely through biomimetic mechanisms, PolyAquol™–2W clini-cally prevents and accelerates the repair of the skin barrier function compromised by an external stress.
Technical information INCI: Polyglyceryl-2- Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol
Naturally derived
Ecocert & Cosmos approved
O/W emulsions
Can be added to the water phase or the oil phase of an emulsion
HLB-independent
Electrolyte tolerant
Form liquid crystals
Self-emulsifies in water forming a stable gel
Compatible with various oils, esters and thickeners
Recommended use level: 1-5%
Clinical actions Prevents skin barrier function damage
Accelerates repair of compromised skin barrier function
Background
Efficacy
Formulation
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
0
2000
4000
8000
6000
10000
12000
PolyAquol™–2Win oil phase
PolyAquol™–2Win water phase
– PolyAquol™–2W can be added to the water phase or the oil phase of an emulsion depending upon the viscosity level targeted
Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856
www.innovacos.com
© 2013-2014 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
(04/14)
