frog-trepreneurs
FOOTBALL IS NOT THE
ONLY BIG GAME IN TOWN,
TCU’S ALUMNI ARE
frog-trepreneurs
Los Vaqueros Stockyards serves a killer Frogarita, made with pomegranate liqueur
Fall 2010foodieFort Worth
2 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 1
tCONTENTS 4 SPOTLIGHT FROG-TREPRENEURS TCU alumni Fritz Rahr, Justin Anderson, and Andrew de la Torre, are elevating the food and beverage scene in Fort Worth. by Celestina Blok
6 AROUND TOWN EAT THIS! Local restaurants with Horned Frog influence in the kitchen. by Josie Villa-Singleton
8 A DAY IN THE LIFECAMPUS CUISINEA student’s view of food life on campus.
by Andrea Drusch
10 CORK JESTER THE COLOR PURPLE Sirah: Petite & XXL? by Jennifer Rosen
12 EASY ENTERTAINING COOKING WITH COLOR Get some color on your plate this Fall with simple yet flavorful ingredients that are a feast for the eyes. by Callie Salls
15 FOODIE FINDS FROG BITES Go purple with these TCU inspired treats.
16 FEEDING FRENZY Your guide for supporting the Horned Frogs that are feeding Fort Worth!
12
6
4
SFROM THE EDITORS
ince 1873, TCU has been shaping individuals that are making an impact locally and globally in the boardroom, on the playing field, and very often, in the kitchen. Whether you are roaming the aisles of Central Market, enjoying a cold beer at your favorite watering hole, or simply enjoying a meal out on the town – it is highly likely that a TCU alum or two had some influence. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
With a Fiesta Bowl appearance, an exciting summer in Omaha and now Purple Fridays on West 7th – it has never been a better time to be a Horned Frog! We can’t wait to see what lies ahead from current and future alumni.
GO FROGS!!
Crystal Willars, owner and editor-in-chief, grew up in Saginaw, Texas and earned her Bachelor of Business Administration degree from SMU. She later returned to school to pursue her entrepreneurial interests and obtained her Master in Business Administration from TCU in 2005. She and fiancée, Matt Vastine, published their first issue of Fort Worth Foodie during Crystal’s third semester at the Culinary School of Fort Worth where she graduated with honors in 2009. They have enjoyed rediscovering their hometown through their love of food and learning more about the people that share that passion.
Celestina Blok, contributing writer, is a Fort Worth-based writer, fitness instructor and culinary student with a passion for sharing untold stories of our city. This quarter she had the opportunity to sit down with Fritz Rahr, Justin Anderson and Andrew de la Torre to share their journeys with our readers (page 4). Celestina graduated from TCU in 2002 with a Bachelor of Science in Advertising and Public Relations. She is currently pursuing her passion for food by attending the Culinary School of Fort Worth. She also enjoys a cold Rahr Ugly Pug!
Callie Salls, contributing writer, hails from Austin and is a professionally trained chef and honors graduate from the Culinary School of Fort Worth. Along with her culinary education, Callie holds a Bachelor of Science in Advertising and Public Relations and a minor in Studio Art from Texas Christian University. Callie recently launched her business, Linguine and Dirty Martinis, LLC, providing a variety of private chef services. We are happy to have the duty of taste testing each of her delicious recipes which includes this issue’s Watercress, Radish and Shaved Carrot Slaw (page 13).
Meet our staff and contributors that are proud to be Texas Christian University alumni!
Editor-in-Chief Crystal Willars
Managing Editor Matthew Vastine
Copy Editor Evin Harano
Contributing Photographers Paige McArdle
Josie Villa-SingletonJack Young
ContributorsCelestina BlokAndrea DruschJennifer Rosen
Callie SallsJosie Villa-Singleton
Published quarterly by Fort Worth Foodie LLC
©2010 Fort Worth Foodie LLCAll Rights Reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced
without written permission from the publisher.
For questions or comments concerning editorial content email [email protected] or
visit www.fwfoodie.com
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4 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
SPOTLIGHT
While most of us were tucked under blankets the morning after the record-
breaking snowstorm this past February, Fritz Rahr was one of few drivers braving the streets at 6 a.m. He was answering a call from his alarm company, who informed him that they detected water moving through his fire lines. Annoyed at first, Rahr knew things were serious when he pulled into the brewery lot. mmm
“The fire department was already in the back of the building tearing out the back door,” Rahr said. “Before I got out of the car, I could hear the torrent of water inside. I saw the strobe lights blinking from the alarms going off, which were literally on the ground now. It was a very surreal moment and I thought, ‘Oh my God, it’s over.’”
The roof had collapsed on the brewery that night, requiring the complete reconstruction of the building. It only took Rahr about 30 minutes to move from panic to planning that morning, and before friends and family showed up, he was already back in business mode. mmmmmmmmm
“I was kind of past that, ‘Oh, it’s completely destroyed,’ thing and kind of going, ‘Alright, we’re not brewing beer now. We’ve got a new project. We’ve got to rebuild the brewery.’”
With the support of many fans, Rahr and his staff have remained positive throughout what could have been a disastrous end to his brewing career. Youtube videos (search for “The Great Rahr Roof Collapse”) and even a playful song about the collapse by local singer Brad Thompson have made light of the situation. Fortunately, Rahr is now ready to brew again. And this time, the beer could be better than ever.mmmmmmmmmmmmmm
“There’s been a huge outreach of people wanting to help in every different way you can imagine,” Rahr said. “Because of this, we’ve been afforded the opportunity to take a step back and look at how we brew, how we ferment and how we package.”mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Some of Rahr’s improvements will include changes to the brewing process, which will
Fritz RahrRahr & Sons Brewing Co., BBA ‘89, MBA ‘93
Frog-trepreneurs
now take about six hours less than before. Additionally, barrel-aged beer in bottles will be a regular item on the menu; an exciting addition to Rahr Winter Warmer enthusiasts. Also look for a new 22 ounce bomber line to be available, as well as other new varieties. (Rahr says he has a red ale fermenting with rosemary right now. We can’t wait to taste it.)
The Saturday beer tastings will resume soon.Guests will find that the round bar in the middle of the brewery has been removed due to damage, and a sleek new, longer bar will pull beer di-rectly from the cooler. Expect plenty of taps and a spacious setting. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
When Rahr first came to Fort Worth on a TCU swimming scholarship, he says he knew he was here to stay. He is often asked to speak at the TCU business school and to entrepreneur-ial studies students. mmmmmmmmmmmm
“Some of my same professors are still there!” Rahr said. “Every chance I get, I love to go to TCU.” mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
With Horned Frog fever in full swing, it is the perfect opportunity to feature some of TCU’s most creative and forward-
thinking food and beverage entrepreneurs. These three alumni have different upbringings, resumes and business plans, but
their passionate spirit for success is the same. Each has built a loyal hometown fan base by following their dreams.
FFFrFrFrFrFrFrFriitititititzz RahrRahr & Sons Brewing Co.,BBA ‘89, MBA ‘93
by Celestina Blok
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 5
Andrew de la TorreEmbargoBBA ‘01
Justin Anderson Anderson Trail GranolaBBA ‘09
After breaking a bracket off his braces while eating some hard-as-rock granola in high school, Justin Anderson sought something a little
softer. He later found it at a bed and breakfast in New Mexico, where he traveled with his best friend and his friend’s mother during summer vacation. Asking to buy some, the B&B owners wouldn’t sell. Anderson decided then to try to make his own. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
“I tried to find something like it and couldn’t. It was all crunchy,” Anderson said. “On the car trip back, my friend’s mom said, ‘If somebody
was to sell something like this, they would be rich.’ It was like she was tipping me off. I did some research and found there was nothing like this on the market. I also tried to find out what I needed to do to start a business in Texas.”
Before his senior year in high school, Anderson launched Anderson Trail granola using a recipe he created after ten tries in his mother’s kitchen. Initially, the product started out as Christmas presents. Later, fellow students became Anderson’s first customers. Today, Anderson Trail is
available at all Central Markets and Whole Foods in the Southwest. “Everybody was telling me it was the best granola they ever tried,” he
said. “Just to make sure, my goal was to get it into Central Market and if these people were telling the truth, Central Market would want it.”
Anderson later learned that TCU had a scholarship program for high school entrepreneurs. He presented his business plan to a board of judges and was awarded. Anderson credits his success to the inspiration he gained from his trip to New Mexico. mmmmmmmmmmmmmm
“I grew up with mom and grandparents in Houston with not that much money,” he said. “Going on this trip was like my first real vacation. It showed me what was possible if you work hard.”
Look for Anderson’s original granola at Central Market, Whole Foods and possibly soon, Costco. It features almonds, cherries, currants and pecans. Also try his peanut butter graham cracker and blueberry flavors.
What started with Fort Worth’s best mojito has led to one of Fort Worth’s most interesting and appetizing lunch spots. Andrew de la
Torre opened his colorful, Cuban-inspired downtown night club in 2006 and is still packing the house; a success story not always typical among after-hours venues. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
After utilizing his club kitchen to cater large festivals, including the Main Street Arts Festival and Musicarte, de la Torre added weekday lunch services to his repertoire earlier this year. Offering classic Cuban comfort
food, including tortas, frijoles Cubanos and “tacos de la calle,” or street tacos, de la Torre provides Latin flavor in a setting unlike anywhere else in Fort Worth.
“It’s kind of soul food. It’s food for the masses,” de la Torre said. “With a Cuban sandwich and a cup of Charro beans, you’re pretty happy.”
When the music is pumping and the drinks are flowing late night, de la Torre offers tacos to his Embargo crowd. They sell like hot cakes
beginning at 11 p.m., and pair perfectly with a cold beer. Regarding his kitchen, de la Torre says there’s no star chef…just a great team of individuals who know how to prep authentic, flavorful food.
“There’s not somebody back there coming up with ‘gelees’ or ‘reductions,’” he said. “There’s just a good kitchen staff back there.”
Always one to march to the beat of his own drum, de la Torre says he’d rather run a hot dog cart than don a business suit. But business definitely stays top of mind. He is currently involved in multiple side ventures, including the establishment of Embargo’s private catering, his part in the purchase of Pequeño Mexico (on N. University), and the development of new boutique apartments near TCU. Not to mention, the busy Horned Frog is expecting his first child with wife Kelsey (TCU BBA ‘04).
“This is something I want to do,” he said. “I’m definitely a roll-your-sleeve-up-and-get-dirty kind of guy. And this allows me to do that.”
6 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
AROUND TOWN
One of Fort Worth’s many treasures is Texas Christian University, whose students and alumni add to the vitality of Fort Worth. Some of Fort Worth’s favorite restaurants have TCU alumni at the helm. Allen Lutes departed from his degrees in Radio/TV/Film and his
MLA (2004) and now runs the Blue Tower Café, a hidden gem in Fort Worth’s food scene. Fort Worth restaurant royalty Lanny Lancarte, part of the Joe T. Garcia family, graduated from TCU in 1997 majoring in business and Spanish before pursuing culinary school and opening his fine dining homage to Mexican cuisine. TCU alumni Eric Tschetter (Class of 1992) opened the Pour House in 1995 and it is now better than ever in its new 7th street location. Lou Lambert attended TCU before pursuing his passion for cooking and now brings his bold ranch cuisine to the Westside with Lambert’s Steak Seafood and Whiskey. kkkkkkkkkkkkllkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
by Josie Villa-Singleton
Lanny’s Alta Cocina3405 W 7th Street, Fort Worth, TX 76107 817.850.9996
The Vibe Chef Lanny Lancarte took over a bungalow on West 7th and converted it into a beautiful and simply chic dining space. Crisp white walls and clean lines contrast with rustic wood beams and spicy saffron orange accents. The outside dining area does not disappoint with a wrap-around porch, succulent plants, and ceiling fans. jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjThe Food Expert combinations of native Mexican ingredients with French technique and Mediterranean influences create a fusion of flavors that moves Lanny’s cuisine beyond Mexican haute cuisine into just plain haute. Lanny’s combines rare, indigenous Mexican ingredients into just about every dish from gnocchi to duck breast. The cocktails are equally as creative as the food with ever-changing concoctions such as the Rambutan Mojito and Agave Basil Gimlet. nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnThe Service The waitstaff at Lanny’s provide an amazing experience. Do not be afraid to ask about unfamiliar ingredients, they are knowledgeable about all the ingredients and provide excellent recommendations. Every detail is taken care of in a subtle, non-intrusive way.Eat This! Start with the sublime Huitlacoche Tamales that include a Mexican delicacy made from corn and transformed into melt in your mouth deliciousness. The Agave Nectar Glazed Duck Breast is com-pletely luxurious. Meat lovers will enjoy the perfectly prepared Prime Carne Asada paired with the fla-vors of the Chipotle Brown Butter Gnocchi. Finish your meal with a Tres Leches Crème Brulée.mmm
Blue Tower Café101 Summit Avenue, Fort Worth, TX 76102 817.386.9220
The Vibe Tucked in the lobby of The Mallick Tower in dowtown you will find the Blue Tower Café.This unlikely spot makes this one of Fort Worth’s best kept secrets. Bright yellows and blues brighten up the Blue Tower Café. In the kitchen you might spot chef and owner Allen Lutes proudly sporting his TCU ball cap while he prepares some of the best burgers in Fort Worth.The Food For some time, there has been a buzz from fellow Fort Worth Foodies about the greatness of the Blue Tower Café burgers. Take it from “Eat This!” that the burgers at The Blue Tower Café are indeed some of the best in town. They are in a league of their own with hand formed patties of the perfect thickness nestled between a soft yet toasty bun. The Service Place your order at the counter and the food is brought to your table. Eat This! The burgers are a must-try. The Mushroom Swiss Burger is particularly flavorful and the hand cut french fries are a treat. If you are not in the mood for a burger make sure and check out their daily Blackboard Specials. A recent visit featured some light and refreshing fish tacos. jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
EAT THIS!
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 7
Read more local restaurant reviews from Josie Villa-Singleton at www.eatthisfortworth.com or visit her travel website at www.travelista.com for your where to go, how to go, what to wear source for budget European travel.
Lambert’s Steaks, Seafood, and Whiskey2731 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, TX 76107 817.882.1161
The Vibe The vibe at Lambert’s matches the cuisine: Bold Ranch reinterpreted with a modern flair. Indisputable Texas accents such as saddles hanging from the ceiling, mounted boar heads, and an abundance of wood, mix smartly with Mid-century modern touches. The mix gives a fun edge to the elegant space. The chic bar area makes a perfect spot for enjoying a cocktail. The Food Lambert’s serves Bold Ranch cuisine that appeals to your inner cowboy. The selection of smoked and grilled meats packs bold and rich flavors in every bite that can only come from slow smoking and expert preparation. Some of the side dishes offered will remind you of times past such as the grits, mashed potatoes, and macaroni and cheese but Lambert’s adds its own modern touch to each dish. jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjThe Service The waitstaff clad in hip western wear exemplifies the classic and modern mix at Lambert’s. The service is charming, friendly, and low key. The bar staff expertly prepares an array of creative mixed drinks. Eat This! Where to begin? The Crispy Wild Boar Ribs make for a great starter or fantastic bar food if paired with a Rahr beer. The Wood Roasted Natural Chicken is chock full of deep, smoky flavors that mingle nicely with the tender chicken. The decadent macaroni and cheese side is addictive. The perfectly tender tenderloin pairs well with the sinfully rich mashed potatoes.mmmmmmm
The Pour House2725 W 7th Street, Fort Worth, TX 76107 817.335.2575
The Vibe Conveniently located on the bustling West 7th corridor the Pour House offers a casual and lively spot to stop by for a drink. The huge bar and open dining area make a perfect gathering spot for TCU students and the after work happy hour set. The shaded patio provides a great spot for eating or imbibing al fresco.jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllljjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjThe Food The Pour House has always been known for their great burgers but the menu goes beyond standard bar fare and includes many salad, pasta, and entree options. The generously sized appetizers are made for sharing and pairing with your favorite beers. Saturday and Sunday Brunch features bottomless “Manmosas,” a make your own Bloody Mary bar and a special brunch menu that includes dishes such as Green Eggs and Ham and Chicken Fried Steak and Eggs. The Service The servers manage to maintain a friendly and laid back vibe even though things are always bustling at this busy spot. They are never too busy to make sure that you have everything you need for a relaxed day or evening out.jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjmmmmmmmmmmjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjEat This! Start your meal off with the Pour House’s homemade chips and guacamole or the Tortilla Crusted Shrimp. The Blackened Chicken Salad or the Pour House Southwest Caesar Salad makes for a tasty and healthy meal. The Fried Red Onion burger provides a mix of textures and is one of my favorites. Other delicious dishes include The Red Pepper Penne Pasta and the Pecan Crusted Chicken.
8 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.comll f f d
A DAY IN THE LIFE
CAMPUS CUISINEA Student’s View of Food Life on Campus
by Andrea Drusch
In 2009, the university completed its $100 million Campus Commons project and began boasting the title of a “24/7 student experience.” The project transformed the campus
by creating a central courtyard, surrounded by residence halls and punctuated with a dazzling new student union. The 24/7 student experience means that campus residents are completely provided for including entertainment, health services, and most importantly, food. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
With over 3000 residents living on campus, TCU dining services works both efficiently and sustainably to keep students fed around the clock.mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
9:00 a.m.It’s time to start the day with a cup of hot tea or coffee
from Union Grounds, a coffee shop on the ground level of the student union. The small counter serves up blends from Aduro Bean & Leaf, a premier coffee roaster and tea blender located just minutes from campus in Fort Worth. Union Grounds also offers Starbucks coffee and pastries, a place to sit and an oatmeal bar for breakfast. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
12:00 p.m.Between classes, Market Square is the perfect stop to refuel
with lunch. The all-you-can-eat dining hall is located on the second floor of the Brown Lupton Student Union and offers seven food stations with rotating menus and vegetarian options.
Il Trattoria is the popular Italian food station inside Market Square, featuring brick-oven pizzas and a rotation of pastas. Across the cafeteria, The Cook House specializes in comfort foods to make a student feel at home such as macaroni and cheese, meat loaf, brisket and, every Wednesday, fried chicken. Next to the Cook House, Shuffles provides popular vegan and vegetarian-friendly meals with a helpful staff to assist in special nutrition needs. The longest line, however, will generally be in front of Expeditions, the counter for international cuisine which rotates mostly popular Asian foods.
Executive Chef Charlie Guajardo preparing for a cooking class in Market Square.
TCU DINING: BY THE NUMBERS*
350 lbs of french fries
600 hamburgers
50 pizzas 480 bananas
225 oranges
180 lbs each of cantaloupe,
honeydew, pineapple
600 apples6000 meals served each day!
*daily statistics provided by TCU Dining Services
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 9
6:00 p.m.Class may be done for the day, but study groups and student organizations will
begin meeting soon and there is just enough time for dinner. The kitchens are firing up at Market Square for an exciting evening of cultural cuisine and food-prep demonstrations. Each night offers a new incentive for students to trek over to the union, whether for pancake dinners, sushi rolling demonstrations, or a dessert of bananas foster prepared over an open flame before your eyes. One day each month a visiting chef prepares exotic meals at Expeditions, where students can view the process from a bar overlooking the kitchen. And just to keep TCU feeling like home, every other week a Reward Yourself night is offered, where for five dollars extra, students can upgrade their meal to options like steak and lobster.
1:00 a.m.Long after the doors are closed at Market Square, 1873 Café & Sports Grill is still
serving for those students that are pulling an all-nighter. The grill offers a variety of home-style dishes for break, lunch, dinner and late-night snacks with both sit-down and take out options. The location even features free pool tables to play on while your meal is being prepared. Favorites include the Slandwhich (a Chicken Caesar Salad on a baguette or wrap) and the 1873 burger, a whopping one third pound patty, branded with the school’s founding year and the café’s namesake. The café stays open until 2 a.m. Monday through Wednesday, and 3 a.m. on the weekends.
While all of the campus restaurants are open to visitors, most non-residents choose to visit Market Square for its phenomenal Sunday Brunch. The spread includes eggs, omelets, fruits, and a waffle bar, as well as a variety of casserole-like dishes and sides. The doors open at 9 a.m. and brunch lasts from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Early risers can get in and out before campus residents are even awake.
Andrea Drusch is a Junior News/Editorial Major at TCU and 3-year on-campus resident.
Chef Ernest Servantes of Texas Lutheran University prepares pulled pork for students during a
Traveling Chef event in Market Square. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
10 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
the colorpurpleSirah: Petite & XXLby Jennifer Rosen
Ilook in the mirror and recoil. Smiling back at me is a native of one of those lands untouched by modern dentistry. Even my supposedly immune upper veneers are stained deep purple.
Just one of the risks of tasting Petite Sirah. mmmmmmmmm Others include a numb mouth and staggering dizziness,
despite having spat every drop. What’s up with this wine? Long-time reader Ted Dewald has this to say:
“Leave it to the damn French to call a 290-pound linebacker a pansy ass wide receiver. Why do they do that!? First thing I noticed was that it looked like red crude oil but it still poured like liquid. Not petite.
“I stuffed my nose into the glass and it smelled very, very red but not especially menacing or heavy. A little dusty though, so I figure it wasrobust. Still, not anything petite about it.
“Then I took a swig, held it a bit and the tannin was immediately apparent—as was the weight. Definitely NOT petite.
“Then I swallowed. Zinfandel, Grenache: take a seat. The big
CORK JESTER
dog has arrived. And it leaves some cotton to clean off the tongue...and the cheeks...and the lips. This ain’t petite. This is definitely XXL, at least. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
“Some American should give this a manly name and it would reach a manly market. I bet a lot of women try it and never drink it again and men just won’t try it. I’m thinking of putting it in a bottle labeled something like Bite Me or Serious Shit or Manly
Red Wine or maybe just XXL. “I’ve had half a glass and I
already feel it. You’re right about the alcohol...” mmmmmmmmmm
So, why “petite?” Petite Sirah (no, the “i” isn’t a typo) is one of those stealth grapes, like Carmènere in Chile, or Zinfandel in California,
mistaken for something they were not until exposed by DNA tests. When DNA isn’t busy solving murders and tracing family trees, it’s hard at work sorting out wine grape confusion. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Petite Sirah turns out to be the offspring of Syrah and a very old variety from France’s Rhone valley called Pelousin. It’s also
ot especiallyh, so I figure it was
already feel it. Youthe alcohol...” mm
So, why “petitSirah (no, the “i” iis one of those stelike Carmènere inor Zinfandel in C
mistaken for something they were not until expoDNA tests. When DNA isn’t busy solving murder
Cork JesterCork Jester
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 11
known as Durif, after the French nurseryman who bred it. So it’s petite only in the sense of being Syrah’s love-child.
It migrated to America in the 1890s where it was quite the hit. In those days, many wines were field blends from a handful of varieties all growing together in one vineyard. Even today, many old California vineyards are full of weird mixtures. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
P.S. grows in big clusters of small grapes with thick skins. This anatomy, as I shall explain, was its destiny: mmmm
Come Prohibition, most vineyards were pulled up. Except when owners negotiated good contracts with the church, since the amendment coincided with an enormous rise in communion-taking church goers. mmmmmmmmmm
A few vineyards survived selling grapes for juice or the newly popular “flavorings,” often sold in casks suitable for fermentation. Grapes were shipped around the country fresh as well as in dehydrated “bricks,” labeled with the stern warning: “Do NOT add this to five gallons of warm water, and do NOT add ten pounds of sugar, and yeast, or it will become wine, which would be ILLEGAL!” mmmmmmmm
Traveling for weeks in un-refrigerated boxcars meant many grapes WERE wine by the time they arrived. Petite Sirah held up better than most, due to its thick skin and its tannins, which act as a preservative. mmmmmmmmmm
They also act as sandpaper. Early Petites could be brutal on the mouth and throat. But modern hand-harvesting and wood-aging produce smoother wines with better mouth-feel and balance. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
P.S. has long been a good blending grape for punching up flavor, body and color. Rumor has it a key ingredient in Gallo’s Hearty Burgundy. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Since it thrives in hot climates, P.S. can get pretty ripe. That means concentrated flavor as well as more sugar in the grape, and sugar is what ferments into alcohol. Hence my dizziness. Most of the Petites I tasted list 14.5% to 15.5% alcohol — pretty high to begin with, without even considering the 1% leeway allowed. Wines closer to 17% can have more in common with Port than with table wine.
All in all, it’s an intense experience. You can learn more at www.psiloveyou.org. But first, buy some really good toothpaste. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Jennifer Rosen, award-winning writer and author of Waiter, There’s a Horse in My Wine, and The Cork Jester’s Guide to Wine, writes wine articles that have been featured in various publications around the world. Jennifer speaks French and Italian, mangles German, Spanish and Arabic, and works off the job perks with belly dance, tightrope and trapeze. Read her column at www.corkjester.com.
ffwfwfwwfwwfofffoffffofoffoododododododdodddiieeiiei .ccc.ccomomomm ••• • FFFFaalalalla ll 200110100000 111111
12 October 2007 • fwfoodie.com
Cooking with Color
EASY ENTERTAINING
The fall season is renowned for richly-hued produce, slow cooking techniques, and gorgeous autumn supper spreads. Book connoisseurs never wish to admit to judging a book by its cover, but they do so regularly. Likewise, food critics and
diners evaluate food based on its appearance.Diners eat first with their eyes before a morsel even hits their
respective mouths. Close attention to creating height in dishes, using odd numbers, layering texture, and simply working with food colorings particularly enhances this visual attraction to the natural beauty of food.
Creating a pleasant colorful attraction is not done necessarily by adding artificial colorings but by layering foods’ natural beauty by enhancing a particular shade, complementing one color with another, or adding a pop of intense color for dramatic purposes.
Enhance a ShadeKeep it simple by using a natural color with variations of shade. A single color
such as green could be particularly beautiful flying solo with contrasting shades. Slices of soft green avocado layered with emerald watercress flecked-
mayonnaise are perfect panini ingredients to make any sandwich fan green with envy. Lilac blackberry curd with fresh macerated blackberries would be a lovely pop of purple atop heavenly white meringue disks.
Complement a ColorTaking advantage of the good ol’ color wheel is ideal for this technique. Colors
work brilliantly well with their complements – this rings true with pairing colors during cooking as well. Lemon zest and butter complement the rich plum hue of Peruvian purple potatoes. Maroon roasted beets are an ideal canvas for the olive color from scattered briny capers.
by Callie Salls
Color ChartDiverse color shades are hidden amongst your favorite cuisine. Below are gorgeous, color boosting recommendations.
Pick a color Add a burst of your favorite hueAlabaster Make a heavenly statement with bright white meringues.Cream Break up roasted vegetable medleys with creamy-hued celery root and turnips.Yellow Swap bright, luscious soft polenta for traditional mashed potatoes.Amber Serve over-easy eggs atop rice bowls. Break yolk and mix.Peach Sear fresh apricot halves then broil with honey.Orange Add diced mango to chopped, fresh herbs for a bright fi sh taco-topping.Coral Bake fresh salmon with a honey mustard crust for lovely coral-topped-coral coloring.Pink Liven up a creamy béchamel with crushed pink peppercorns.Fuchsia Layer sliced raw beets to add sweetness and fl air to a spicy fennel slaw.Magenta Quick sauté thin-sliced red cabbage is a bold side perfect with pork.Red Brighten a pesto and fresh mozzarella fl atbread with roasted red peppers.Maroon Add a touch of chipotle in adobo to spice up plain ketchup.Lilac Incorporate Japanese eggplant into a simple stir fry.Violet Line concord grapes atop par-baked pie dough for a spin on a traditional berry tart.Deep Purple Poach pears in a red wine reduction for an elegant dessert with ice cream.Chartreuse Top vanilla gelato with sliced star fruit for a citrus-hued surprise.Lime Fold lime zest into a powdered sugar glaze to drizzle atop plain-Jane confections.Green Stir fresh peas and tarragon leaves into al dente risotto.Emerald Blanch bunches of broccolini for a shock of emerald with modest baked chicken.Ivy Drizzle chimichurri atop grilled red meat for a dramatic accompaniment.Olive Arrange assorted rich olives to deepen an antipasto platter.Blue Fold in fresh blueberries for a bleeding blue nestled amongst moist gingerbread batter.Steel Swap blue cornmeal for all purpose fl our for pancakes with body.Navy Stew fresh blackberries with ginger for an easy morning toast topping.Latte Rev up whipped cream for brownies with a sprinkling of instant espresso.Chocolate Brown Add molasses to slow-baked beans for a rich deepening of color and fl avor.Gray Serve fresh fi sh skin-on for a glistening color contrast and added texture.Black Fold in black sesame seeds with cold peanut noodles for a fl ash of onyx.
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 13
Add a Pop of ColorTurn something into the unexpected with this
dramatic approach of boosting color. Thick slices of crimson tomato tucked into monotone-hued macaroni and cheese display turning a dish from ordinary into extraordinary. Sparse threads of sunset saffron stirred into simmering rice transforms paella into so much more.
Pairing flavors is your top priority when pairing colors, whether by enhancing a shade, using complementary colors, or adding a dramatic enhancement. Although your combinations might look beautiful, the taste of the final dish is the true test of success.
Toss watercress leaves, radish slices and shaved carrots together. Whisk together remaining ingredients in a small bowl then drizzle atop vegetables. Serve chilled as a side dish, room temperature atop tacos, or warmed with grilled meats.
Watercress, Radish and Shaved Carrot Slaw
This recipe is a simple, yet elegant side dish or topping perfect to brighten up fall dinners or holiday spreads. The slaw can be served warm or chilled and has lovely holiday shades of fuchsia-hued radish, emerald watercress and bright orange carrot curls.
Serves 41 cup radishes, cleaned and thinly sliced1 cup watercress leaves1 cup carrots, sliced thin with peelerjuice of one lime1 teaspoon lime zest1 tablespoon honey1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes½ teaspoon kosher salt
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Everything we sell was grown, raised or produced within 150 miles of Fort Worth.Located on the Traffic Circle (junction of highways 183, 377 & 80 West)—3821 Southwest Blvd., Fort Worth, TX 76116.
Wednesdays (til Thanksgiving) and Saturdays (year-round)
fwfoodie.com • Fall 2010 15
FOODIE FINDS
TCU Roll, Tokyo Cafe. This popular sushi bar may be owned and operated by a pair of Aggies, but Jarry and Mary Ho (along with new edition to the family, Madelyn Grace) welcome the local crowd with the TCU Roll. Part of the creative “yellow board” menu that is regularly updated with inventive new dishes, the TCU Roll features Japanese pickle for crunch and is topped with fresh purple-hued spicy tuna. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Purple Ice Cream Sandwich, Sweet Sammies. As part of the Purple Fridays craze that has taken over West 7th, Sweet Sammies presents this cool treat. Specially made purple Blue Bell vanilla ice cream is sandwiched between two sugar cookies studded with purple candy sprinkles. As a bonus for anyone wear-ing purple, this sammie is only $1.79. Owners Dan, Kelly and son Kory Close hail from California, but now call Texas their home. The cookies served are from Dan’s mother’s recipes and are made fresh daily. m
Whether out for dinner, drinks or dessert, we have you covered if you have a hankering for a TCU inspired treat.
Frogarita, Los Vaqueros.Although the Berry Street location recently closed, the beloved Frogarita will be hopping on down the road to the Stockyards. This potent purple potion packs a puckery punch (say that five times fast after you have had a couple) and contains pomegranate liqueur, Blue Curacao and Chambord. This fall, the restaurant will begin to offer patio dining with live music. Horned Frog football fans can even pick up pre-made TCU tailgate packages at Los Vaqueros. But if you want to grab a bite while at the game, Los Vaqueros will be waiting for you in Amon Carter Stadium with brisket tacos and burrito bowls.
FrogBites
16 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
FEEDING FRENZY
Arti san Baking Company Gwin Grimes, MLA ‘05Gwin and husband Mark Grimes specialize in handmade bread and baked goods made from scratch with local, seasonal and organic ingredients. Find them on Wednesday and Saturday at Cowtown Farmers Market or visit their storefront. 4900 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, TX 76114. (817) 821-3124. www.artisan-baking-company.com
Chaparral Chef, LLC Suzanne Loy, BFA ‘89From toe shoes to tasting menus, Suzanne Loy has taken her love of fine arts to the kitchen. She and husband J.D. Loy, CEC providecustom catering, personal chef services, and home replacement mealsfor clients in Fort Worth and surrounding areas. (817) 965-DINE. Follow “The Chaparral Chef ” on Facebook. mmmmmmmmmmmm
Cupcake Cott age Sandra Bradshaw, BA ‘94Since 2006, Sandra and husband Juaquin have been preparing fresh cupcakes daily from this little house off of Camp Bowie. The available flavors change daily and seasonally and are topped with fresh buttercream icing. Pre-ordering is highly recommended. 5015 El Campo Avenue, Fort Worth, TX 76107(817) 732-5670. www.thecupcakecottage.com
Culinary School of Fort Worth Heather Kurima, BS ‘96Heather Kurima serves as Director of the Culinary School of Fort Worth and has been a personal chef and caterer for over 14 years. Founded by Judy and Bill Byrd, CSFW provides culinary programs that allow students to maintain their regular jobs while following their passion. 6100 Camp Bowie Blvd, Fort Worth, TX 76116 (817) 737-8427. www.csftw.com
Daddy Ray’s Famous Gingerbread Ashley Neeson, BBA ‘04Ashley Neeson and brother Buddy are the third generation of family members to carry on the tradition of their grandfather’s gingerbread cake recipe. While visitors are welcome at the retail location, all cakes are baked to order to ensure freshness. 3520 Bluebonnet Circle, Fort Worth, TX 76109. (817) 921.2688. www.daddyraysgingerbread.com
Ellerbe Fine Foods Richard King, BS ‘98Recently named to Bon Appétit Magazine’s Best New Restaurants in America, Ellerbe takes local ingredients to new heights. Richard King, along with childhood friend and co-owner, Chef Molly McCook, provide a seasonal menu of farm-to-table cuisine in a relaxed yet elegant setting. 1501 W Magnolia Avenue, Fort Worth, Texas 76104. (817) 926-3663. www.ellerbefi nefoods.com
Lili’s Heather Hogan, BA ‘98Chef/Partner, Heather Hogan, along with owner, Vance Martin are taking comfort food out of the realm of ordinary and making it exceptional and unexpected at this Magnolia Street eatery. 1310 West Magnolia Avenue Fort Worth, TX 76104. (817) 877-0700. www.lilisbistro.com
Reata Mike Micallef, BBA ‘99Micallef serves as President of the family of companies that includes both Reata locations in Fort Worth and Alpine. Reata’s unique blend of Southwestern, Creole and Southern cuisine goes beyond typical steakhouse fare. 310 Houston Street, Fort Worth, TX 76102 (817) 336-1009. www.reata.net
Renfro Foods Jack Renfro ‘59, Bill Renfro ‘56For over 70 years, the Renfro family has been bringing delicious products to the Fort Worth market and today their salsas and relishes are enjoyed internationally. www.renfrofoods.com
Z’s Café and Catering Carlo Capua, BBA ‘05Carlo Capua and his mother Janet Capua not only serve up some of the best chicken salad in town, but they are giving members of the community. Their ongoing partnership with the Samaritan House provides jobs to its residents and skills that will last a lifetime. 1300 Gendy Street. 817.989.2233.www.zscafe.com
H orned Frogs are everywhere! Here is a selection of restaurants, bakeries, caterers
and more where you can support TCU alumni.
18 Fall 2010 • fwfoodie.com
The Union Experiencewww.theunionexperience.com
The Brown-Lupton University Union is the ideal location for your next event or meeting. You will not find a more perfect location that offers extraordinary customer service and value in a relaxed collegiate environment. Whether you are hosting a private luncheon or a large
fundraiser, the University Union is the perfect destination for your next event.
817.257.5239 [email protected]
www.tcudiningservices.com
