Frister+Rossmarnr

COMPACT FREEARMSUPER-AUTOMATICWITH BUILT-INPRACTICAL STITCHESAND STRETCH STITCHES

INSTRUCTIONMANUAL

This booklet has been written for you,to help you use and enjoy fully yourF + R zigzag sewing machine.

Before you start to use this machine,please take a few minutes to studythis booklet. You will find it willbe time well spent in understandingyour machine.

If you have any questions regarding theuse of your sewing machine please donot hesitate to contact your supplieror ourselves.

Frister + Rossmann Sewing Machines,

Limited.

Mark Way,

SWANLEY.

Kent.

BR8 8NQ

ABLE OF CONTENTS

Adjusting bobbin tensions .................... .. 12Adjusting for good stitches ........... ..... 28Adjusting top tensions ............. .......... .. .. 12A ppliqueing ................... ........ ......... ... ... _23Attaching presser foot .................................. 7...... 7Blind stitching ......................... .... ....... 29Buttonhole making ... i n. ...... ... ... ... .... .... 25 -26Button sew ing .................... ............................ 27Connecting m achine 4.......................................... 4Converting to free-arm sewing ............ ............. 5Darning and free hand embroidery .... 34Elastic stretch stitching ......................... ........ 32Fancy hem m ing .................................................. 35Fault findings ........... ...................... . .. 42 - 43Feed dog control ................. ....... 17Free-arm sew ing ......................... ........ ..... 38If your suits w ere torn .................................... 3

Lace sew ing ...................... 22........Leather sew ing ....................... .. ... ... ...... ...... 28M achine identification ....................................... 2 - 3Needle and thread table ., . . . . . ........... 8

Now you can start sewing ............................ ..... 19O iling m achine ............ .. ........... ..... ...... 40 - 41Overcast stretch stitching ......................... .. ...... 30

Partslist ............. ..................... .. 44 - 45Placem ent of needle ..................................... .... . 7Pressure adjustm ent ........................................... 17Rem oving lint ......................... .. .... ... ....... ..... 39Reverse stitch control ................. .. ....... ..... 14

S ew ing light ...................................... .... 6Smocking stretch stitching .... ._ 31

Special stitch selector and indicator 4... 14-16

Stitch length control ................ .. ... .... .. ...... 13Stitch w idth control ..................... .. ..... .. . .... 13Straight stitching ..... ...... ........ ..... .20

Stretch stitching ............... ................. 21The double needle ............................. ........... 36 -37

Threading of top thread ....... ................ ..... . ,.11

Threading the bobbin case ..................................... 10W inding the bobbin ..... ............ .... .... .... . 9Zigzag and straight stitching plate ......... . 8Zipper sewing ...... .24

MACHINE IDENTIFICATION

1. Accessory box 10, Built- in tension regulator2. Needlle plate M1 Thread take -up3. Feed dogs 12. Channel for simplified threading4. Presser foot 13, Specialstitch selector5. Threadguide K4 Special stitch indicator

6. Thread guide 15. Stitch width control7, Thread tension spring 16. Reverse stitch control8. Thread guide 17. Stitch length control9. Face cover M8 Shuttle cover

2

MACHINE IDENTIFICATION

26 ___22

25

24---

23• .. ......30

._•.I - • ' • ..... 32

33

21-

20

1 9 .. . .... .

19. Nomenclature plate 27. Bobbin winder tension disc20M Connector 28. Thread guide21. Rear support release button 29. Presser foot lever22. Power/light switch 30. Thread cutter23. Automatic clutch 31. Needle clamp screw24. Bobbin winder 32. Changeable needle plate25, Retractable spoof pin 33. Rear support26, Hole for extra spool pin

3

CONNECPTIN MACHINE

IMPORTANT.

The wires in this mains lead arecoloured in accordance with thefollowing code:

Blue: Neutral,Brown: Live.

As the colours of the wires in themains lead of this appliance may notcorrespond with the colouredmarkings identifying the terminals inyour plug, proceed as follows:The wire which is coloured blue must(Sbe connected to the terminal which ismarked with the letter N or colouredblack.The wire which is coloured brown Power/lightmust be connected to the terminal sicwhich is marked with the letter L orcoloured red.Fit a 3 amp fuse when using a 13 ampI BS 1363) fused plug. If any other typeof plug is used protect with a5 amp fuse either in the plug oradaptor or at the distribution board.If in doubt consult a competentelectrician before use.Push foot control plug into theconnector socket at the right hand sideof machine column. See illustration.The power/light switch is located at theright of the machine column.When leaving your machine or whenservicing or changing mechanical partsor accessories, your machine must bedisconnected from the mains supplyby removing the plug from thesocket outlet.This appliance complies with EECOirective 82/499/EEC coveringsuppression against radio interference.

4

ONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

Release Button Ftg. I

Rear SupportFig, 2

1 Remove the accessory box from 3. To return to flat-surface sewing,the machine by lifting it from the pull the rear support toward youleft side. (Fig. 1) until it snaps in place, and

2. Push the release button tilting the reposition the accessory box.

machine toward you slightly andthe rear support will pop out to theback for free-arm sewing.(Fig, 1, 21

5

SEWING LIGHT

The sewing light is placed inside theface cover plate as shown, andilluminates the sewing area only.The power/light switch is located onthe side of the machine column.(See Fig. 1).

"DISCONNECT FROM MAINSSUPPL Y BEFORE CHANGING BULB""DO NOT USEA BULB OF MORETHAN 15W"-

To change bulb, open the face coverplate by swinging it towards left, twistold bulb away from you and remove.Then insert new bulb. (See Fig. 2).

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

ATTACHING PRESSER FOOT

To attach the foot, raise the presser barto its highest position by raising thepresser toot lever.Loosen the presser foot thumb screw,choose the proper toot and insert fromthe front.Tighten the screw using a largescrewdriver and make sure that the foot

is secure.

(C

FINGER GUARDIn order to prevent your fingersaccidentally coming into contact withthe needle, the machine is now titledwith a 'FINGER GUARD'I as shown inthe illustration alongside. Should itbecome detached, or should youremove it, it can easily be re fitted inthe manner shown.,1

'PLACEM1ENT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest positionby turning handwheel toward you.Loosen needle clamp screw. Holdneedle so that the flat side is away fromyou, slip blunt end of needle as far as itwill go into needle clamp,Tighten clamp screw.

4IFlat side away from you,

7

NEEDLE AND THREAD TABLE

Use System 705 needles. The size ofthe needle should conform to the sizeof the thread and both should besuitable to the material. The same sizethread should be used in the bobbin ason the upper part of the machine forordinary sewing.Never use a bent needle nor one with ablunt point,

For successful sewing of stretchfabrics use the stretch stitch foot withgold shank and stretch stitch needleswith blue shank,

Thread Size Needle Size FabricContinental American

Cotton60- 100 Blue shank needle All stretch fabrics.SyntheticMachine embroideryCotton 70(7) 11 Sheer cottons, silkSynthetic or or synthetics, fine laces,Silk A 80(8) 12 batiste, dimity.Machine embroidery

Cotton 60 -80 80(8) 12 Medium weight cottons,Mercerized 50 60 or or medium weight synthetics,Synthetic 90(9) 14 poplin, seersucker,

gingham, velvet, lightweight woolens, linen,

Cotton 30 - 60 Heavy weight cottons,Mercerized heavy 100(10) 16 medium to heavyduty weight woollens, denim.

8

INDING THE BOBBIN

Follow the procedures directed by 4illustrations below.

*

00Push latch.

Release clutch by pullinghand wheel,

When bobbin is full, winding Push in hand wheel to return tomechanism stops, stitching position.

9

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Raise needle to its highest position,0 4remove accessory box, open shuttlecover and remove bobbin case fromshuttle by gripping spring loaded latch.Insert a full bobbin into bobbin caseas illustrated.Pull thread under tension spring.Holding latch, position case intoshuttle, release latch.

10

THREADING OF TOP THREAD

Fig, 1

Fig. 2 Fi.44

Raise presser foot Pul up spool pinon presser foot holding top thread looselytop of machine and fit spool with in left hand and rotating handwheelthread coming from back of the spool. towards you one complete turn, PullHolding the spool stationary with the upper thread to bring up the bobbinright hand, draw thread through rear thread (See Fig. 4). Place both threadsthread guide (See Fig. 1). into top under and to the back of the presserthreading channel towards you (See foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches of threadFig. 2). clear.

Draw thread down and hook under IMPORTANT: Always turn thethread tension spring, then up through handwheel toward you IWhen thethread guide and thread take-up lever machine is not being used, place aas shown in Fig. 2. piece of material over the feed dog and

lower the presser foot. Always haveContinue to thread down through fabric under the presser foot whenthread guides as shown in Figs. 2 and operating the machine.3. The needle must be threaded from Operating threaded machine withoutfront to rear, After threading needle, fabric will cause it to jam by forcing lintbring up bobbin thread by raising into the shuttle. See page 39.

11

ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS

There are many reasons for having to numbers of layers of fabric being sewn,reset your tension. The required as well as the type of stitch you aretension depends upon the stiffness of making.the fabric, thickness of the fabric,

0 A perfect straight stitch:Threads are locked between the twolayers of fabric with no loops on topor bottom.

. . Upper thread too tight-Decrease tension

-Upper thread too loose-Increase tension

ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS

When stitching is unsatisfactory infigures 2 and 3 above, adjust the upper INCREASE TENSIONthread tension. LOWER THREADTENSION REQUIRES ADJUSTMENTLESS FREQUENTLY THAN THEUPPER THREAD TENSION.When stitch is satisfactory, as in Fig. 1and seam is badly puckered, the causemay be tight tensions and both upper Turn clockw.isand lower may be adjusted.When adjusting the tension on thebobbin case, make slight adjustments DECREASE TENSIONwith a screwdriver.

Turn counter clockwise.

12

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates thelength of the stitch you select.

The stitch setting you use will bedetermined by the thickness of thefabric you are sewing. A higher stitchsetting should be used for thicker fabricor more layers of fabric.

A basting stitch is made by using thehighest possible stitch setting to makethe longest possible stitch.

ISTITCH WIDTH CONTROL

This control regulates the width of thestitch you select. The higher thenumber, the wider the stitch. You mayvary your zigzag and decorativestitching by adjusting this control to the 21 ¼setting you desire.

This control must be on "0" in order todo straight stitching.

13

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

It is best to begin and end seams with afew stitches taken in reverse.

When reverse stitching is needed, turnthe control clockwise and hold thereduring sewing. The fabric willimmediately start feeding backwardsand seam will be fastened.

SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

There are certain types of practicalstitches you will use often in yourhome sewing. As you become familiarwith this machine you will find thisselector and indicator useful in sewing.

Detailed instructions are given on thenext three pages.

14

SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

Straight and zigzag stitch Menging Stitch

I~~ tpiU' -R-i-Fi-,-j .-- 0I FCII-& +You can straight stitch and zigzag You can achive fine mending stitchesstitch by setting as follows: by setting as follows:Special Stitch Selector: $ Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: any number Stitch Length Control: near 0.5

0.5 to 4 Stitch Width Control: 4Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

Blind Hem Fancy Hem

I. • I • Ii' U II io • *I• .o D

You can make blind hemming by You can make fancy hemming bysetting as follows: setting as follows:Special Stitch Selector: • Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 1.5 to 2 Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1Stitch Width Control: 1.5 to 2 Stitch Width Control: 2 to 4

Elastic Stretch Overcast Stretch

You can make elastic stretch stitching You can make overcast stretchby setting as follows: stitching by setting as follows:Special Stitch Selector: I Special Stitch Selector: IStitch Length Control: 4 Stitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: near 3 Stitch Width Control: near 3

15

SPECIAL STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

Smocking Stretch Stretch stitch (on straight and zig-zag)

You can make smocking stretch You can stretch stitch by setting asstitching by setting as follows: follows:Special Stitch Selector: @ Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 4 Stitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: near 3 Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

Buttonhole Making

These settings are for buttonholemaking. When you make buttonhole,theselectormustbesetto f firstly.Further instructions are given on pages25 and 26.

16

FEED DOG CONTROL

The feed dog control is located in theshuttle cover. There are a few timeswhen you want to control the feedingof the fabric yourself. When the f5control is pushed to the right, the feeddogs drop and do not move the fabric.

For most of your sewing, push up thecontrol in order to release it to the leftposition. (Feed dog up).

Feed Dlog ___ ____

LIV 1~~~up) uEii~

~I4- Feed Dog r(down)3

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT

'DISCONNECT FROM MAINS Insufficient pressure may cause poorSUPPLY BEFORE ADJUSTING" feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,

or difficulty in guiding the fabric.The pressure on the presser foot is When sewing multiple thickness orregulated by turning the dial of this heavy fabric, reduce the pressure.regulator which is situated in face cover Increase pressure when sewing lighterplate (See illustration), weight fabrics. If feed dog or presserTo increase the pressure, turn the dial foot marks appear on the fabric, reduceclockwise, until a suitable pressure is the pressure.obtainted.Make certain presser foot lever is in theup position during adjustment.

17

ZIGZAG AND STRAIGHT STITCHING PLATE

Needle plate insert

You are provided with two needle plateinserts. The one with the wide ovalhole is to be used for all zigzagstitching. The one with the small roundhole is for regular straight stitching orstraight stretch stitch sewing.

Changing needle plate inserts

1 . Raise needle to its highest positionand raise presser foot.

2. Remove accessory box from themachine.

Fg3. Open shuttle cover and push a

spring under the plate as shown torelease the needle plate insert.

4, Remove needle plate insert byplacing thumb under edge of plate. 4

5. Replace the needle plate insertpositioning as shown in Fig 3.

6. Push needle plate insert down tolock into place. Reposition theshuttle cover and accessory box. Fl9. 2

Fig. 3

18

NOW YOU CAN START SEWING

Push the plug onto the connector, turning the handwheel toward you,place material under the presser foot, lower presser foot. Turn on power/lightinsert the needle into the material by switch. Start sewing.

To remove the work:Draw material to the rear and cut offexcess thread with the thread cutter.(See illustration.)

19

STRAIGHT STITCHING

This is the basic stitching that holds thegarment together. The best lengthstitch to use for medium weight fabricsis 10-12 stitches per inch. This is themiddle range of the Stitch LengthControl. You must remember tolengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics.

Setting:

Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 4Stitch Width Ccntrol: 0

00

054:

200

STR-ETCH STITCHING-

This special stretch stitch is ideallysuitable for knitted fabrics and otherstretch materials. Sew as you do aregular straight stitch seam.The machine will make triple lockstitches -forwards, backwards andforwards- producing a very strongstitch. Regular stitching is broken whenfabric is stretched as shown in theupper stitching. However, this specialstretch stitch stretches with the fabricwithout breaking thread.(See the lower stitching in theillustration.)This is also a good stitch to use oncurved seams that will receive a greatdeal of strain when worn, such as inchildren's shorts and slacks as well asadult sport clothes.Use stretch stitch foot for all kinds ofsewing on stretch fabrics.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4

21

LACE SEWING

Keep lace between fabrics as shownand continue stitching.

Setting:

Special Stitch Selector: 1'Stitch Length Control: 1 to 2Stitch Width Control: 0

0

1-2

22

APPLIQUEING

Any applique design can be applied toyour garment,

Setting:Special Stitch Selector: t:Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1.5Stitch Width Control: 2 to 2.5

10.5-1,51N

-23

23

ZIPPER SEWING

This foot is used to insert a zipper or tocover cording. Attach the Zipper Foot.

Regular zipper

This foot is reversible so you can stitchto the right or to the left of a zipper or a

cord. To sew on the left place the footto the left of the needle so that theCneedle passes through the opening onthe right side of the foot.To sew on the right, adjust the foot sothat it is to the right of the needle withthe needle passing through the openingon the left side of the foot, (See Fig. 1).

Cording:To make cording for slipcovers, etc..cover the cord with a strip of bias fromthe fabric you are using.Enclose the cord in the bias strip.(See Fig. 2).

Set your machine as follows:Special Stitch Selector: ;lStitch Length Control: 1.5 to 2Stitch Width Control: 0 Fg

Val.

o Fig,.2

24

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

Carefully mark the buttonhole lengthon your garment. Mount one of thebuttonhole guides onto the presserfoot so that rear edge of presser foot isat the rear end of the guide as shownbelow. Place the fabric with thebuttonhole marked under thebuttonhole guide. Slide the guideforward so that the needle pierces thefabric at the beginning of thebuttonhole,

One of the buttonhole guides must befixed to obtain perfect buttonholes

Set your machine as follows:Special Stitch Selector: See page 26.Stitch Length Control: Between 0

and 1Stitch Width Control: 3 to 4

3 4],

t

near0.5

Buttonhole guide

25

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

Always make a practice buttonhole ona piece of the fabric to be used in thegarment. Try the buttonhole with the (jtbutton you will use.

1,. Set stitch selector to 4l0. Sti tchforward until you reach the frontmarking of your buttonhole. Stop fjI Osewing at the left stitch and thenraise needle at its highest positionby turning handwheel toward youmanually. 0

2. Set stitch selector toO0 and bartackseveral times. Stop sewing at theright stitch. Raise needle at itshighest position as in step 1. _______

3. Set stitch selector ajtUrandcontinue sewing until needlereaches beginning of yourbuttonhole. Stop sewing at theright stitch and then raise needle asin steps 1 and 2.

4. Set stitch selector toO0 again and Ubartack to complete buttonhole.

To make firm well stitched buttonholesin heavier fabrics, repeat only steps1land 3.-

You have been provided with anassortment of buttonhole guides inmaking buttonholes. They are 3/W"1/2", 518", 13/16" and 1 3J" and aremarked accordingly. By using these

guides, you will accurately make

identical buttonholes every time.I...

CORDED BUTTONHOLES SuHook filler cord (crotchet thread orbuttonhole twist) to the spur, pull bothends of cord forward under the guide.Sew buttonhole in such a way thatzigzag stitches cover the cord,When stitching is completed, releasecord from foot, pull ends of cord andsnip off extra length.

26

BUlTTON SEWING

Use button sewing foot.Adjust stitch width so that the needlepoint enters holes of the button.Align two holes of button with slot ofpresser foot and lower foot to hold thebutton securely.Finish sewing with an extra two inchesof thread remaining. Draw thesethreads to reverse side of garment andtie.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector: •:Stitch Length Control: 0Stitch Width Control:

* width between holes of buttonFeed Dog: DOWN

When sewing on a flat button, placeneedle between holes of button as 0shown. "

27

LEATHER SEWING

Use the roller foot when sewingleather, rubber or plastic materials.When sewing such materials it is betterto use straight or simple zigzagstitching rather than any of the built-inautomatic practical stitches.You will obtain better results using alonger stitch length,

ADJUSTING YOUR MACHINE FOR GOOD STITCHES

When your sewing machine does not a. If seam is puckered - both tensionssew a properly locked stitch, check the are too tight.following: b. if the bottom thread lays on the

1 . nset anew eede o thecorectfabric - tighten upper thread

size for the thread and fabric you tnin n eetts.Sepgare using. Consult chart on page 8 12.for needle size. c. If the top thread lays on the fabric -

2. The upper and bobbin thread loosen upper thread tension, andshould be matched in size and type. repeat test. See page 12

3. Check threading carefully. See page Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap10 and 11 . to make threads break.

4. Check the thread tension balance.Use mercerized thread, and a a. If both threads break - tensions arecorrect size needle for the fabric you balanced.are using. Do not try this test with b. If neither thread breaks - bothsynthetic thread as it will not break. tensions are too loose.

Begin with a full bobbin, properly c. If upper thread breaks - loosenthreaded into the case. Set the stitch upper tension.length at about 12 stitches per inch. d. If lower thread breaks - tightenFold aSIV square of your fabric in half upper tension.diagonally, forming a triangle. Make aline of stitching 112" from fold. Both threads do not have to break at

the same place, but they should breakon the same snap.

28

BLIND STITCHING

UJse, Nibd stich foot and follow theinsir ctlions below.

I Turn raw edge over 1,2' a, d baste

2. Turn up required depth of hem andpress Fold hem back against rightside of garment with basted edgeixtending by about '4",

3. Set your machine as shown. Placegarment under blind stitch footwith hem restng against guide andslide the guide by turning screw as -in diagram so that one zigzagstich just catches the fold.

4 Remove baslon and press hem(

Selttig:

Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 1.5 to 3Stitch Width Control: 2.51.3

%

N 1=-2

1Screw

N N G

29

OVERCASTING STRETCH STITCHING

The raw edge of each seam allowancecan be overcast to prevent furtherravelling.

This is the same type of stitch used bythe garment industry in makingsportwear. The seam is formed andfinished in one operation. It must beused when you are making swimwear,ski pants and other garments thatrequire stretch.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector:Stitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: near 3

nearC 3

4 1

30

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING

With a narrow strip of fabric directlyunder the line of gathering, stitch overthe gathers. The design will be a seriesof small diamonds. Make the designmore interesting by using two differentcolors of thread.When smocking a garment, thestitching should be done before thepiece is sewn into the garment.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector;Stitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: near 3

V:3

I31

31

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING

This is a good stitch to use in making orrepairing lingerie. The stitch isdecorative as well as useful. It has a lotof stretch to it and is strong as well.Simply stitch the elastic into placearound the waist of the garment,making sure that the elastic is evenlydistributed. To do this mark the correctlength piece into quarters and matchthese markings with center front andback of garment as well as side seams.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector: IStitch Length Control: 4Stitch Width Control: near 3

n33

4

32

IF YOUR SUITS WERE TORN

Mending stitch is useful in sewingstraight or three cornered tear,.

Setting:Special Stitch selector:Stitch Length Control: near 0.5Stitch Width Control: 4

4

near0.5

33

DARNING AND FREE HAND EMBROIDERY

Use darning foot.Stretch fabric between embroideryhoops and start sewing at a mediummachine speed.Move the fabric fast for long stitches,slowly for short stitches.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector: t:Stitch Width Control: 0 to 4Feed Dog: DOWN

34

34

FANCY HEMMING

This attractive stitch is used forattaching lace, combining two pieces Combining fabricsof fabric, decorating pocket cover andso on as shown. As you becomefamiliar with your machine, you will beable to find out new uses of this stitch.

Setting:Special Stitch Selector: • 1Stitch Length Control: 0.5 to 1Stitch Width Control: 2 to 4

Attaching lace

Design on pocket

] Design an cuff

r 2 4

35

THE DOUBLE NEEDLE

The machine is set exactly the same aswhen using the single needle with oneimportant exception. The Stitch WidthControl must never be set beyond2. The double needle will be broken ifa wider stitch is used.

Placement of needle:Raise the needle bar to its highestposition and loosen the needle screw.Hold the double needle with the flatside away from you. Slip the needleinto the needle bar as far as it will go.Tighten the screw.

Threading the double needle:Place the extra spool pin supplied in theright position of the top cover byscrewing.Place a spool of thread on each spoolpin as shown. Draw both threads athrough upper threading path.Continue threading as you do for singleneedle sewing.Draw one thread through each side ofthe double thread guides and througheach needle from front to back. Turnhand wheel manually once to be sureneedle will clear the presser foot. Pickup bobbin thread as for single needlesewing. Pull threads to back of foot andstart to sew.Remove extra spool pin beforereplacing machine into carrying case.

36

DOUBLE NEEDLE STITCHING

You may find that you would like to usethe double needle for designs.Whenever you use the double needleeven for straight stitching, rememberthe following things:'Use a zigzag presser foot and needle

plate slot.'Always make a practice design on ascrap of the fabric you plan to use.

*Start with a full bobbin and plenty ofthread on the spool to avoid runningout of thread in the middle of yourdesign.

For your reference of uses of thedesigns, see the illustration. You willsoon be combining designs andcreating new uses when you becomefamiliar with your machine.

Turning a corner with double needle:To turn a square corner with a doubleneedle, stop stitching with the longerneedle tip just piercing the fabric.Raise the presser foot, shift fabric halfthe turn, lower presser foot and takeone stitch. Raise the presser foot again,complete the turn, and begin stitchingin the new direction.

37

FREE-ARM SEWING

This dual-purpose machine can be usedas a flatbed machine and as a freearmmachine. To convert to freearm justremove the accessory box and releasethe rear support as detailed on page 5.

The freearm enables you to sew tubularor cylindrical material which can beslipped onto the freearm as shown.

You can sew sleeves, cuffs, trousers,pyjama legs, baby clothes, socks, etc.Other advantages are:

1 .kSimpler mending at the elbows andknees of clothes.(

2. Sewing-in sleeves more easily,particularly on smaller garments.

3. Appliqueing, embroidering orhemming around edges of cuffs ortrouser legs.

4. Sewing-in elastic casings at thewaistline.

38

REMOVING LINT

To ensure the best possible operation 3. Clean the shuttle race with smallof your machine, it is necessary to keep brush.the essential parts clean at all tines. 4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin ofUsing a small brush, remove the lint the shuttle and shuttle race.that accumulates in the shuttle area (see arrows)

and roud te fed dgs.5. To reassemble, hold shuttle byTo Clean the Shuttle Area: center pin and fit carefully into

assembly opposite the shuttle1 . This area must be kept free of dust, driver. Slip shuttle race cover into

lint and an occasional tangled place. Snap the levers into position.thread. Raise the needle bar to itshighest point and remove thebobbin case.

2. Push levers of shuttle race aside andlift hook ring and shuttle out,

Shuttle Assembly Shuttle Race Shuttle Shuttle RaceCover

39

OILING MACHINE

To keep your machine runningsmoothly, proper oiling is of the utmostimportance. It is recommended thatyou use good quality, recognisedsewing machine oil.Moving parts indicated by arrows in theillustrations on this and the next pageshould be oiled sparingly from time totime. Do not over- oil as excess oilmay soil the fabric.

Swing hinged face cover plate open tooil points indicated at the end ofmachine head.

A drop of oil should be placed throughthe hole indicated in the end coverplate.

40

)ILING MACHINE

emove arm cover plate to oil pointsndicated in top of machine head.o remove top cover plate, removeo top cover securing screws.

41

FAULýT FINDINGSPROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE

Irregular Incorrect size needle.Stitches Improper threading.

Loose upper thread tension.Pulling fabric.Light pressure on presser foot.Loose presser foot.Unevenly wound bobbin,Nicks or burrs on shuttle.Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.

Breaking Pulling fabric.Needles Incorrect size needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.Loose presser foot.

Bunching of Upper and lower threads not drawn back underThread presser foot.

Feed dog down.

Puckering Incorrect thread tensionls),Light pressure on presser foot.Using two different sizes of or kinds of thread.Bent or blunt needle.Loose presser foot.Fabric too sheer or soft.

Skipping Incorrect size needle.Stitches Certain knits and synthetics.

Bent or blunt needle.Incorrect setting of needle.Tight upper thread tension.Light pressure on presser foot.

Breaking Upper Starting to stitch too fast.Thread Improper threading.

Tight upper thread tension.Incorrect size needle.Sharp eye in needle.Nicks or burrs on shuttle.Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.

Breaking Bobbin Improper bobbin case threading.Thread Tight bobbin thread tension.

Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.

Fabric not Feed dog down.Moving Light pressure on presser foot.

Threads knotted under fabric.

Machine Jamming Thread caught in shuttle.(Knocking Noise)

42

ORRECTION

:hoose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).ethread machine (page 11).aghten upper thread tension (page 12).

o not pull fabric; guide it gently.ncrease pressure on presser foot (page 17).eset presser foot (page 7).ewind bobbin (page 9).eplace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely,eplace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

o not pull fabric; guide it gently.hoose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).n•et needle (page 7).nset presser foot (page 7).

raw both threads back under presser foot (page 11).

Raise feed dog (page 17).

Reset thread tension(s) (page 12).increase pressure on presser foot (page 17).Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.Insert new needle (page 8).Reset presser foot (page 7).Use underlay of tissue paper when stitching.

Chooe correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).Use blue shank needle (page 8).Ieart new needle (page 7).Rset needle (page 7).oosen upper thread tension (page 12).

Increase pressure on presser foot (page 171.

Start to stitch at a medium speed.Rethread machine (page 11).Loosen upper thread tension (page 12).Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric (page 8).Insert new needle (page 7).Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Check bobbin case threading (page 10).Loosen bobbin thread tension (page 12).Clean bobbin case and shuttle (page 39).

Raise feed dog (paoe 18).Increase pressure on presser foot (page 18).P'lace both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch (page 11).

Disassemble and clean shuttle (page 39).

43

PARTS LIST

2 3 4 5

6 8 9 10

11 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20

4-,

21 22 23 24 25 26

/22J4 I

ARTS LIST

I parts listed here may be ordered 2. Parts number(s) and description(s)hrough our nearest agent. shown below.

hen ordering these parts, please be When ordering by mail, prices will beure to mention the following furnished on request,eferences:

Model and serial numbers ofmachine shown on thenomenclature plate, which issituated on the back of themachine.

Ref. No. Part No. Description

1 13682 Bobbin case2 47 Shuttle hook3 181 Bobbin4 36353 Needle clamp5 40390 Standard zigzag foot6 40752 Straight stitch foot7 47275 Blind stitch foot8 37701 Zipper foot9 41625 Buttonhole guide (1t" 2.7 cm)

41624 Buttonhole guide (%" 2.0 cm)41623 Buttonhole guide (V' 1.6 cm)41622 Buttonhole guide (0z" 1.3 cm)41621 Buttonhole guide ( 14" 1.0 cm)

10 34482 Stretch stitch foot11 614 Button sewing foot12 45974 Roller foot13 54612 Darning foot14 38295 Needle plate insert zigzag)15 38296 Needle plate insert (straight)16 17160 Needle threader17 56302 Needles18 1822 Oiler19 17351 Light bulb20 35848 Brush21 1824 Screw driver (small)22 1823 Screw driver (large)23 16500 Buttonhole opener24 8286 Extra spool pin25 38098 Felt disc26 42377 Finger guard

45

MEMO

46

47

MEMO

48

PP.

Printed in Japan Part No. 55140 .... 3/85