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G-BlockTM - in-cosmetics · PDF fileTitanium Dioxide Dispersions G-Block DT 200 CCT 55% / 45%...

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G-Block TM Product Series Premium Grade Physical UV Dispersions Solid % / Active % Particle size * INCI Zinc Oxide Dispersions G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT 70% / 70% 147 nm Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Isostearic Acid (and) Lecithin G-Block™ SP 100 80% / 80% 279 nm Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Helianthus Annuus (and) Lecithin (and) Isostearic Acid (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Titanium Dioxide Dispersions G-Block DT 200 CCT 55% / 45% 127 nm Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ((and) Isotearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Lecithin Target Applications Natural sunscreens with high transparency and good sensory Daily Skin Care lotions and creams with UVA and UVB protection Baby and Children’s skin care, sun care Gentle hypoallergenic skin care and sun care products for sensitive skin Baby diaper rash cream, adult incontinence skin protectant ointment and creams (G-Block™ SP 100) * Mean particle size of aggregates in dispersion by Photon Correlation Spectroscopy to provide the most efficient combination of high transparency, UVA protection, and SPF performance in an easy- to-pour liquid dispersion. G-Block TM products are engineered One of the more difficult challenges in crafting a quality natural sunscreen is the delicate balance between skin transparency, protection, and overall texture and stability. G-Block™ now makes it easy to create natural, stable sunscreens with both excellent transparency and robust broad-spectrum SPF protection.
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G-BlockTM Product Series Premium Grade Physical UV Dispersions

Solid % / Active % Particle size* INCIZinc Oxide DispersionsG-Block™ DZ 370 CCT 70% / 70% 147 nm Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and)

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Isostearic Acid (and) Lecithin

G-Block™ SP 100 80% / 80% 279 nm Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Helianthus Annuus (and) Lecithin (and) Isostearic Acid (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Titanium Dioxide Dispersions

G-Block DT 200 CCT 55% / 45% 127 nm Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ((and) Isotearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3

Polyricinoleate (and) Lecithin

Target Applications

Natural sunscreens with high transparency and good sensory•Daily Skin Care lotions and creams with UVA and UVB protection•Baby and Children’s skin care, sun care•Gentle hypoallergenic skin care and sun care products for sensitive skin•Baby diaper rash cream, adult incontinence skin protectant ointment and creams (G-Block™ SP 100)•

* Mean particle size of aggregates in dispersion by Photon Correlation Spectroscopy

to provide the most efficient combination of high transparency, UVA protection, and SPF performance in an easy-to-pour liquid dispersion.

G-BlockTM products are engineered

One of the more difficult challenges in crafting a quality natural sunscreen is the delicate balance between skin transparency, protection, and overall texture and stability.

G-Block™ now makes it easy to create natural, stable sunscreens with both excellent transparency and robust broad-spectrum SPF protection.

Table 1. G-BlockTM DZ 370 CCT Competitor A: Dispersion A Competitor B: ZnO Powder

SPF 35.5 29.96 29.96

PFA 9.3 9.32 11.65

Notes: 1) The in-vivo SPF test method for UVB protection uses FDA protocol, while the PFA test for UVA protection uses Japanese Cosmetic Association method. 2 subjects. 2) The % of ZnO actives in starter formulation SU WO 009 is kept at 20%.

G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT not only exhibits the highest protection aginst UVB (35.5 SPF), but also displays an excellent PFA rating of 9.3 against UVA. PFA 9.3 is the equivalent of PA +++ , the highest protection level in the Japanese UVA protection test method.

Competitor A dispersion, which only contains 50% ZnO active level, gave a lower SPF value for UVB protection and a similar PFA result for UVA protection. In comparison, Gblock DZ 370 CCT, due to its higher 70% ZnO active content, gives you more formulation space and flexibility, which means that your product’s sensory is less dependent on the dispersion.

Competitor B’s ZnO powder also resulted in lower SPF protection in comparison to G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT. It did receive a higher PFA score, which also nets it a PA +++ rating. However, the downside to its high PFA rating is increased whiteness on the skin, which we will demonstrate via the following transparency test.

G-BlockTM dispersions aren’t just for natural sunscreens - by using combination of G-BlockTM DZ 370 CCT and chemical UV filters, you can boost SPF, reduce skin irritation potential, and still deliver excellent transparency and sensory on skin. Starter examples with dosages:

SPF 15: 3% ZnO, 6% OMC SPF 25: 4% ZnO, 2% Ethylhexyl Triazone, 7% Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate SPF 30+: 6% ZnO, 5% OMC, 2% Octocrylene, and 3% Oxybenzone SPF 55: 14% ZnO, 7- 8% OMC

Super-Loaded Active Content

G-BlockTM dispersions boast an impressively high active content, which gives them some unique advantages:

More formulation space means more flexibility and creativity to achieve your desired sensory and performance•Decrease your dispersion usage (and inventory storage space) while still maintaining high SPF protection. Get more bang for •your buck!

Easy to Pour, Easy to Blend

G-BlockTM Features and Benefits

High Efficacy

Synergy with Chemical UV Filters

High active loading usually results in overly thick, pasty dispersions, while those that feature lower active levels suffer from separation and stability issues. G-Block™ dispersions are rich in active content, but still remain easy to dispense, easily blending into your formulation without any discoloration or stability issues.

Table 1 is a comparison between G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT and two very popular mineral UV filters. Competitor A is a zinc oxide dispersion, while Competitor B is pure zinc oxide powder. All three products were blended using equal active levels into a starter sunscreen formulation (W/O formulation SU WO 009) and then subjected to in-vivo SPF testing (See Notes section in Table 1).

Table 3.

G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT G-Block™ DT 200 CCT

SPF 1 - 1.7 2 - 3

PFA 0.4 - 0.55 0.4 - 0.55

Notes: SPF and PFA value is based on 1% ZnO (1.43% DZ 370) or 1% TiO2 (2.22% DT 200)

Table 2. Starter Dosage for Sunscreen Formulations with G-Block™ DT 200 and DZ 370 CCT

SFP 15 SPF 20 SPF 30 SPF 50

% TiO2 active 2 - 4 % 3 - 4 % 5 - 6% 6 - 8%

% ZnO active 6 - 7 % 8 -10% 10 -12% 16 -20%

Keep in mind that while G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT provides higher transparency and PFA, G-Block™ DT 200 CCT provides higher SPF. Therefore, formulations using a combination of G-Block™ DT and DZ dispersions can also give high SPF, good PFA, and good transparency on skin.

As always, the actual SPF and PFA protection values will depend on the formulation parameters, such as W/O, anhydrous, O/W, film formers, viscosity, SPF boosters, etc.

Formulations involving G-Block™ DZ dispersions should:

Avoid pH < 6.5, Carbomer thickener, and fatty acids emulsifier•

Prefer non-ionic emulsifiers, and non-ionic thickeners such as clays, Xanthan gum, Sepigel 305, Cellulose Gum, Microfibrous •cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Starter Emulsifiers for W/O emulsions: PEG30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Arlacel P135), Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Inwitor 60), •Polyglyceryl-2 (and) Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH)

Starter Emulsifiers for O/W emulsions:• Non-ionics: Steareth-20/Cetearyl Alcohol (Rita Pro 200) and Steareth-2, GMS/PEG 100 Stearate (Rita Pro 165), PEG 40 Stearate, etc. Anionics: Potassium Cetyl phosphate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, etc (prefer to disperse in water phase)

General Formulation Guidelines

High Transparency

Table 2 shows the recommended starting dosage of G-Block™ DT 200 CCT and DZ 370 CCT for varying levels of SPF protection. Table 3 should be consulted when trying to optimize your formulation, as it displays the equivalent SPF and PFA values per 1% active level.

For example, to develop a sunscreen with a target of SPF 30 and PFA 9, you may start the formulation with 20% ZnO active (28.6% of G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT). You may also start with 8-10% of TiO2 (18-22% of G-Block™ DT 200 CCT) for a target of SPF 30 and PFA 4-5.

G-Block™ DZ 370CCTCompetitor BCompetitor AG-Block™ DZ 370CCT

Competitor BCompetitor A

Light Skin Tone Dark Skin Tone

The following transparency comparison uses the same values and parameters referenced in Table 1. The total dosage for each application was 0.8 mg/cm2.

In the “Light Skin Tone” comparison, Competitor B stands out due to its stark levels of visible whiteness, while Competitor A and G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT have similarly transparent results.

In the “Dark Skin Tone” comparison, the contrast between Competitor B and the underlying skin color is even greater. Competitor A and G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT again display a great deal of transparency, with Competitor A only slightly more transparent than G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT.

Overall, these comparisons show G-Block™ DZ 370 CCT gives you the best balance between broad-spectrum SPF protection and transparency, displaying superior levels of UVA and UVB protection while still retaining excellent transparency levels on skin.

# INCI Name, (Trade Name) % FunctionsPhase A

1 Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic acid (and) Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (and) Isostearic acid (and) Lecithin. (G-BlockTM DZ 370 CCT)

28.57% Natural mineral UV filters for skin protection against UVA and UVB

2 Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (Inwitor 600) 3.00% Naturally-derived emulsifier

3 Sobitan Oleate (Span 80) 1.0% Naturally-derived emulsifier

4 Caprylic/capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Bentonite (and) Propylene Carbonate (GgelTM CCT 200)

4.00% Thickener/sensory/stability enhancer, derived from mineral and plant

5 Dimethicone Oil 1.00% Skin emollient

6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00% Skin emollient, derived from plant

7 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) seed oil, Carthamus Tincorius (Safflower) seed Oil (and) Styrene/Butadiene Copolymer (NatureVgelTM EG 100)

2.00% Film former, enhance sensory and product stability

8 Beeswax 1.00% Enhance product stability and texture

Phase B

9 Magnesium Sulfate 0.40% stabilizer

10 Disodium EDTA 0.01% chelator

11 Glycerine 3.0% Natural skin moisturizer

12 Euxyl 9010 0.5% Preservative

13 Water 49.53% carrier

Procedure:

Mix Phase A (except #7 and 8) at room temperature with 1. Silverson homogenizer at high speed to a homogenous state.Add # 7 and 8 into A, and mix with a propeller while 2. heating it to 75 - 85C. Continue mixing at this temp for 15 more minutes.Prepare Phase B at 75C to a homogeneous solution.3. Add B slowly into A at 75-85C while mixing with propeller 4. at 700 -1000 rpm, and continue mixing for a few more minutes.Switch to mixing with Silverson homogenizer at 3000 5. – 4000 rpm at 60-65C for a few minutes to the desired viscosity.Switch to mixing with propeller at 300 -400 rpm while 6. cooling down to room temperature.

Features:

SPF 35.5, PFA 9.3 (PA +++) (SPF 1.77 and PFA 0.465 per 1% •ZnO) In-vivo clinical test with 2 subjects. 148,000 cP @ 20 rpm

105 Lock Street, Suite 305B, Newark, NJ 07103Phone: 973-622-0202 E-mail: [email protected]: 973-622-6229 Website: www.applechem.biz

Innovation lives here.

Starter formulation, SU WO 009

# INCI Name, (Trade Name) Wt % FunctionsPhase A

1 Distilled Water 43.4% Liquid carrier

2 Glycerine 4.00% Natural Skin moisturizer

3 Xanthan Gum (Keltro CS-SFT) 0.50% Natural Thickener

4 Preservative 0.50%

5 Disodium EDTA 0.10% Stabilizer

Phase B

6 Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Isostearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl -3 Polyricinoleate (and) Lecithin (G-BlockTM DT 200 CCT)

16.00% Natural mineral UV filters for skin protection against UVB

7 Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic acid (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Isostearic acid (and) Lecithin. (G-BlockTM DZ 370 CCT)

24.0% Natural mineral UV filters for skin protection against UVA and UVB

8 Dimethicone 1.00% Skin emollient

9 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.0% Skin emollient

10 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.0% Skin emollient

11 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0% Texture agent, skin emollient

12 PEG 40 Stearate 0.5% Emulsifier

13 Cetearyl alcohol/Ceteareth -20 (Rita Pro 200) 2.5% Emulsifier

14 Methylcellulose (Soltera Boost) 1.5% SPF booster

Phase C

15 Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:

Heat Phase A to 75-85C while homogenizing slowly. 1. Heat Phase B to 75-85C while mixing with a propeller to a 2. homogenous white liquid mixture. Add Phase B slowly into Phase A while homogenizing at 3. high speed and 75-85C to a homogenous lotion. Switch to mixing with a propeller and turn off the heat. 4. Mix at moderate speed while cooling down to room temperature.Add #15 when temperature reaches abut 45C. 5. Continue mixing while cooling down to room temperature. 6.

Features:

pH 7.8, viscosity @ 20 rpm 13,500 cP. •

SPF 48.5 , In-vivo SPF, FDA protocol, 2 subjects. •

PFA 9.56 or PA +++, JCIS protocol, 2 subjects•

Starter formulation, SU OW 0011

Transparent Zinc Oxide Mineral Sunscreens, SPF 35, Broad Spectrum

Transparent Mineral Sunscreens, SPF 48, Broad Spectrum


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