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NC STATE UNIVERSITY NORTH CAROLINA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION Summer 2011

in this issueM O U N T A I N N E W S Vertical Plantings

All About Hops

NC Educational Forests

Fruit Trees

S T A T E N E W S Make Your Land- scape Water-wise

Climbing Hydrangea

Cane Fruits

Spotted Wing Drosophila

Make Your Landscape “Water-wise”

Water is an integral part of life. Not just the water we drink and bathe in, but ponds, lakes, streams, rivers and

coastal waters all contribute to our quality of life here in North Carolina. To conserve and protect these resources, there are a few steps you can take to make your landscape “water-wise.” Submit a soil sample to the NC Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, and the testing service will tell you how much lime and the type of fertilizer to use to correct nutrient deficiencies. Apply full rates of fertilizer to plants you want to grow larger. Mature plants need only occasional fertilization to maintain health. Amend soils with compost. Compost holds moisture for plants and at the same time improves soil structure to allow excess water to drain. Don’t just add organic amendments to the planting hole. Apply 3 or 4 inches of organic matter to the soil surface and incorporate it into the plant bed. Never work soil when it is wet. Match your family’s needs to the landscape features, and be realistic. If you use that grass for parties, soccer or chipping practice, then keep the turf. Otherwise, transform a part of that lawn into beds that are either natural areas or just low-maintenance groundcovers, perennials, shrubs or ornamental grasses. If you enjoy large turf areas, consider a drought-tolerant species such as bermudagrass, centipede or zoysiagrass.

Tired of spraying for black spot, leafminers and lacebugs? It hurts only for a short time to throw away plants that are not suited to your environment. There are lots of books and pam-phlets that will help you learn about plants that are well-adapted to your local gardening climate. Visit public gardens, your county Cooperative Extension center website and garden centers. Join a garden club or volunteer as a Master Gardener. Here is one website with a complete list of tough plants: www.ncstate-plants.net Organic mulches on landscape beds conserve moisture and help to moderate soil temperature, allowing for rapid root development. Mulches hold moisture and allow rainfall to penetrate compacted soils. When rainfall does occur, be mindful of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. If swept into a gutter or storm drain, they will go directly into our streams and rivers. There is no water treatment plant to clean this water before it reaches a stream or river. In addition, never dump oil, paint or solvents into the gutter. Impervious surfaces such as concrete or as-phalt do not allow water infiltration. This causes rapid runoff and greater stormwater manage-ment problems. Gravel or paver products allow for water infiltration and thus feed our ground-water supplies.

— Carl Matyac

Extension GardenerSmart Gardening — Vertical plantings

Upcoming Events

June 3 (10 AM – 12 noonHypertufa Leaf CastingBullington Center, Hendersonville• Learnhowtomakeleaf

castings with Master Gardener Mary Martin.  All materials will be supplied. Space is limited; registration required.  (828) 698.6104

June 14 – 16 (9 am – 11AM) Introduction to Botanical

DrawingBullington Center, Hendersonville • ArtistSuzanneWhitewillteachthefundamentalsofbotanical illustration in this 3-day workshop. Appropriate forthebeginnerwhowantstoproduce an accurate botanical drawing.  Registration required. (828) 698.6104

June 25 (9 am – 4 pm) Buncombe County Master

Gardener Garden Tour: Look and Learn in our Gardens

Asheville• Fiveprivategardenswillbe

opening their garden gates to the public.  Registration required.  (828) 255.5522

July 6 (3 – 4:30 pm) Growing and Using Culinary

HerbsBullington Center, Hendersonville • MasterGardenerBetty

Lockwood will demonstrate how to grow and cook with herbs. She will share culinary creationsfromherkitchenandleadatouroftheBullingtonherb garden.  Registration required. (828) 698.6104

Going up! If garden space is limited, vertical plantings can be a wonderful addition to a

raised bed or container garden. Whether you use a trellis, cage, stakes or poles to support growing plants, you are vertical gardening. For vegetable gardens, sprawling plants such as pole beans, cucumbers, snow peas and toma-toes are great to train vertically. This allows space for other vegetables to be planted nearby. More important, trellising improves air movement to limit foliage diseases, and it eases harvesting. Trellis systems can be constructed using materials that you already have on hand. Look for items that can be “recycled” into a trellis sup-port. Willow branches, bamboo canes or other flexible cuttings can be used to create a twig ar-bor for a container, a teepee support or a simple lattice for climbers. Three to four bamboo canes can be lashed together to form a teepee or A-frame structure for plant support. A discarded window frame (without the glass panes), baby bed box springs, or a piece of used lattice can all serve as vertical plant supports. Or they can be slightly angled to create a shady area underneath

for additional plantings. Garden twine, fishing line or nylon string can be attached to trellis systems to provide more support. Some plants without any means of attaching themselves may need to be tied to the structure. Keep the ties firm but loose enough to allow for the plant’s growth. Wire cages are also an option and usually are constructed of strong hog-fence wire or reinforc-ing mesh. To add a little color to the garden, tomato cages can now be found in red, blue and yellow. Site your support structure at the north or west side of the garden or raised bed to limit shading of the other vegetables. Regardless of what type of vertical support you select, make sure it’s secured properly. When visiting other gardens, take time to observe their trellis systems. You may find a new version to use for your own garden. Whether it’s noodle beans, pickling cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, Malabar spinach or enjoying the flowers of black-eyed Susan vine tucked into the vegetable garden trellis system, enjoy “growing up!”

— Jan McGuinn

Food Production — All about hops

Spurred on by the demands of a burgeoning craft brewing industry and a strong public interest in locally grown ingredients, farmers are experimenting with hops (Humulus lupulus) as an alternative income source. Over the past three years, a small com-munity of growers across west-ern North Carolina have established hop yards and sold their product to lo-cal craft breweries and home brewers. While many of us recognize the end products of hops, flavorful and bitter beer or herbal remedies, we are less familiar with what the plant looks like and how it is produced. The hop plant is a member of the plant family Cannabaceae, the same family as the well-known Cannabis. Hop plants are bines that produce annual stems from perennial root systems known as rhizomes. The bines grow to a length of 18 to 25 feet. Unlike vines, the bines

do not produce tendrils, but rather prickly hairs and climb by turning clockwise as they grow up a trellis. Hop plants are herbaceous perennials meaning that the bines die down each year in

the winter but arise again each spring from hardy crowns. The hops rhizomes

may explore the soil to a depth of 15 feet. Hops plants

are propagated from cuttings from the rhizomes. Hops producers typically

buy and cultivate female bines only. The female flowers form pale-green cone-like structures that are 1 to 4 inches long. The papery scales of the cone turn yellowish when ripe. Inside the cones are the lupulin glands, small yellow organs that resemble pollen. These glands contain the essential oils and alpha and beta acids that provide the bitterness and flavor-ing properties important in crafting beer.

— Sue Colucci

Regional News of the Mountains

Tips

Lawns•Mow grass regularly, never

cutting more than a third off the height of the grass blade at one time.

•Apply a pesticide contain-ing imidacloprid in June and July for next year’s grub prevention. Always read the label before making any pesticide application.

•Allow clippings to fall back on the lawn rather than bag-ging. This adds nitrogen and organic matter back to the soil.

Ornamentals•Take semi-hardwood cuttings

of azalea, holly, camellia and rhododendron in late June. Make cuts where the new-year’s growth is starting to harden off.

•Prune bleeder trees such as maple, dogwood, birch and elm in July.

• If dry weather persists, don’t forget to water landscape plants as needed.

Edibles• Start watching for pests on

vegetable plants. Flea beetles, whiteflies and Colorado potato beetle are out. Spray for squash vine borer in early June and again in early August.

• Fall vegetable transplants such as cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and greens should go in the ground between mid-July and mid-August.

•Mulch tomato plants early to help prevent early blight. A three-year rotation plan will also help suppress early blight.

—Donna Teasley

&TasksGarden Spot — North Carolina educational forests

Did you know that trees can talk? At least the trees in

North Carolina’s seven state educa-tional forests can. Managed by the NC Division of Forest Resources, seven educational forests across the state operate as outdoor learn-ing centers for both teachers and students. The first educational forest opened in 1977 in Johnston County. Its popularity was so great that Hen-derson, Chatham, Wilkes, Bladen, Caldwell and Lincoln counties have also opened similar facilities. Each forest features self-guided trails with exhibits, tree identifica-tion signs, a forest education center and, of course, a talking tree trail. Rangers are avail-able to teach 30-minute programs to school and youth groups. A large selection of topics is available to choose from. During the sum-mer, environmental education workshops are held at each forest that instruct teachers and other youth leaders on methods of teaching outdoors. Some of the programs offer teacher renewal credits.

A ranger talk at the Tuttle Educational State Forest in Lenoir.Courtesy of Division of Forest Resources, NC DENR

Reservations for ranger talks are required. A call to the appropriate forest office can help map out an agenda that will meet the needs of any group. All classes are held outdoors, so suit-able clothing should be worn. Covered picnic areas and trails are open to the public although reservations are required for large groups who use the covered shelters. For more information about the educational forest closest to you, visit www.ncesf.org.

— Donna Teasley

Environmental Stewardship — Fruit trees in the home garden

Home gardeners are now in the full swing of fruit production. We hope a late frost

or a hailstorm didn’t ruin your crop. Growing your own fruit can be rewarding; in a bad year, however, it can be very disappointing. Variety selection, weather and diseases are the main reasons why home fruit crops fail. Choosing the correct variety is critical. Some tree fruits require cross-pollination. For instance, if you have an apple tree that has never had fruit, you may need to plant another apple tree that blooms at the same time so they will cross-polli-nate. In addition, poorly adapted fruit trees may bloom before the last frost, which leads to a crop loss each year. It is difficult to raise quality peach and apple trees at home. One problem with peaches is brown rot. The classic signs of brown rot are

shriveled peach mummies at the end of the year clinging to the tree or lying on the ground. Brown rot cannot be totally controlled, but sanitation will greatly reduce its spread. Each year in the fall, rake up and dispose of the peach mummies so they are not present the following year to re-infect the tree. Fire blight is a common apple disease that can be identified in several different ways. The most obvious way is limb tips that appear to be burnt. Also the ends of limbs will curl up in the shape of a shepherd’s hook. Infected fruit will appear water-soaked and have droplets of a milky-like substance. Unfortunately, control for fire blight goes beyond good sanitation practic-es. Contact your local Extension center for more information on these diseases.

— Daniel Shires

Extension Gardener Around the State

Showstopper — Climbing hydrangea

Looking for an ornamental vine with year-round interest? The climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris)

is the plant for you. With its rich green foliage, midsummer white flowers and striking exfoliating bark in winter, this deciduous vine makes a statement in any season. According to Donald Wyman, respected American authority on woody plants, “there is no better climbing vine.” Climbing hydrangea is excellent for a massive effect on brick or concrete walls, arbors, gazebos or most any freestanding garden structure. This woody vine has an almost shrub-like appear-ance due to its lateral branches. It is somewhat slow to establish and prefers rich, well-drained, moist soil. It will grow in sun or shade and can easily grow 60 to 80 feet in its lifespan. Introduced in 1865 from

Asia, this vine should find a home in most NC landscapes. — John Vining

Edibles — Cane fruits

Blackberries and raspberries make excellent additions to the landscape. The fresh fruit is

delicious and high in antioxidants. Plus the fruit makes an excellent wildlife food. More than 100 species of birds feed on blackberries. Cultivar selection is very important. ‘Navaho’ and ‘Triple Crown’ are good blackberry choices for gardeners statewide. Both have great taste and no thorns. Raspberries prefer the cooler climates of the

mountains where gardeners can choose several va-rieties. In the piedmont, ‘Heritage’ is the best choice

for floricane culture while ‘Caroline’ and ‘Jocelyn’ are good choices for primocane culture. ‘Southland’ or

‘Dormanred’ may satisfy gardeners in the coastal plain. You may get by without using pesticides, but control mea-

sures must be taken for insects and disease. In particular, manage the raspberry crown borer and rednecked cane borer.

— David Goforth

Pest Alert — Spotted Wing Drosophila

The spotted wing drosophila (SWD, Dro-sophila suzukii) was first found here last

summer and has now been found at several locations in the state. Most drosophila species (vinegar or fruit flies) lay their eggs in overripe fruit. The spotted wing drosophila is different; it lays its eggs in good fruit, too. Blueberries, cane fruits, figs, bunch grapes, peaches, plums and strawberries, among other fruits, can be affected. Make sure to remove overripe fruit, especially if you live close to a commercial strawberry field, orchard or vineyard, so any infestatation won’t spread. Even though SWDs can lay eggs in non-overripe fruit, doing that takes more effort than laying eggs in overripe fruit. Bag the fruit

that you aren’t going to use, and let it “cook” in the sun in the sealed bag before putting it in a compost pile. Pesticides are not currently recommended for managing SWDs in home gardens, although they are for commercial plantings when SWDs have been detected in the area. A pesticide needs to be selected carefully. The product needs to be effective on SWDs and safe to use on ripening fruit close to harvest. For more information, see the following blog from NC State University: http://ncsmallfruit-sipm.blogspot.com/search/label/SWD

— Mary Helen Ferguson

Spotted wing drosophila Drosophila suzukii or SWD

© Beverly S. Gerdeman, WSU NWREC  

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Coastal Plain Charlotte Glenn Piedmont Carl Matyac, Mark BlevinsMountains Donna Teasley, Dianne Turner

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Photos courtesy JC Raulston Arboretum unless otherwise noted.

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July Garden Calendar Plants in Flower

Mimosa, Trumpet Creeper, Phlox, Butterfly Weed, Daylily, Red Hot Poker, Rose-of-Sharon, Sourwood, Crapemyrtle, Stewartia, St. John's Wort, Abelia, Peegee Hydrangea, Chaste-Tree, Canna, Dahlia, Shasta Daisy, and summer annuals.

Fertilizing Continue sidedressing your garden vegetables. Take soil samples from your lawn areas for testing. Soil boxes are available at the County Extension

Center. Planting

Plants of Brussels Sprouts and Collards can be set out in mid-July. You can begin your fall vegetable garden this month. Plant Beans, Carrots, and Tomatoes in July. Start Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower plants in peat pots to transplant into the vegetable garden

early. Begin repotting overgrown houseplants.

Pruning Prune bleeder trees like Maple, Dogwood, Birch, and Elm this month. Prune the fruiting canes of Raspberry and Blackberry plants after harvest is over. Cut canes at ground

level. Prune off dieback limbs on Hybrid Rhododendron. Trim hedges as needed. Continue pruning White Pines and Narrow Leaf Evergreens like Juniper early in the month. Remove faded flowers on Crape Myrtle and flowering perennials to encourage a second flowering. Pinch your Chrysanthemums the first week only! Do NOT prune spring flowering shrubs now.

Spraying Check the following landscape shrubs for the following insect pests: Arborvitae (Bagworms), Azalea

and Pyracantha (Lace Bug), Crape Myrtle (Aphids). Spray for Japanese Beetles as needed. Spray Crape Myrtle for Powdery Mildew. Continue with Rose spray program. Spray your tree fruits and Bunch Grapes on a regular basis. Spray the following vegetables if insects are observed: Cucumber (Cucumber Beetle), Squash (Aphids),

Tomato, and Eggplant (Flea Beetle). Spray woody weeds like Poison Ivy, Honeysuckle, and Kudzu with a recommended herbicide.

Lawn Care Remember to change direction when moving your lawn. Travel north to south on one mowing and east

to west on the next cutting. Continue feeding your warm season lawn with fertilizer. Do NOT give Tall Fescue lawns any fertilizer

this month. Propagation

This month is still a great time to take semi-hardwood cuttings of Azaleas, Camellia, Holly, Rhododendron and many other shrubs.

July is an ideal time to divide and transplant your Iris. Specific Chores

July is a good month to see if and where your home can use some additional shade trees. Blossom-end rot may be seen on Tomatoes this month. Two factors - too little water and low pH may be

the reason. Watering and mulching will help this year. A soil test will help you to correct low pH next year.

In dry weather, both your vegetable garden and landscape plants will benefit from a good soaking watering. Slow watering will penetrate the root zone better.

August Garden Calendar Plants in Flower

Crape Myrtle, Rose-of-Sharon, Peegee Hydrangea, Abelia, Canna, Dahlia, Trumpet Creeper, Cardinal Flower, Butterfly Weed, Phlox, Cleome, Hosta, Liriope and summer annuals.

Fertilizing Strawberries will benefit from a feeding of nitrogen fertilizer this month. Do NOT fertilize shrubs in August, September, October, or November.

Planting Plant Pansy seed this month in flats for planting in the landscape in September. Spider Lily (Lycoris), Colchicum (Autumn Crocus), and Sternbergia bulbs should be planted in August. Sow seed of the following perennials: Hollyhock, Delphinium, and Stokesia to produce healthy plants

for next spring. Continue repotting house plants. Plant the following fall vegetable plants this month: Beets, Chinese Cabbage, Cucumber, Kale,

Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Radish, Rutabaga, Spinach, Squash, and Turnip. Spraying

Check the following landscape shrubs for the following insect pests: Arborvitae and Juniper (Spider Mites), Azalea and Pyracantha (Lace Bug), and Crape Myrtle (Aphids).

Continue with rose spray program. Peach and Nectarine trees need a trunk spray for Peach Tree Borers. Check the following fall vegetables for insects: Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower (Worms), Squash

(Borers). Continue weekly sprays on Bunch Grapes and tree fruits. Spray the following shrubs for the following plant diseases: Crape Myrtle (Powdery Mildew). Control the following woody weeds by spraying them with the recommended herbicide: Greenbriar,

Kudzu, Trumpet Creeper, and Wisteria. Lawn Care

Check all lawn areas for grubs. Use the recommended insecticides if needed. In late August, prepare the lawn areas for seeding if you plan to have a Tall Fescue lawn.

Propagation Cuttings of your favorite shrubs can still be taken in August.

Specific Chores If you are planning to do some fall landscape planting, be sure you have a planting plan prepared. Continue watering favorite landscape plants and your vegetable garden if dry weather persists. Begin the construction of a leaf compost bin. Cure Irish Potatoes this month. Disbud Japonica Camellias where two flower buds on the same limb exist. Remove the bud only if they

originate from the same point.

September Garden Calendar

Plants in Flower Crape Myrtle, Rose-of-Sharon, Sasanqua Camellia, Japonica Camellia, Dahlia, Canna, Ginger Lily,

Chrysanthemum, Spider Lily, Fall Crocus, Liriope, Sedum, and summer annuals. Fertilizing

NONE - See what's happening in Lawn Care. Planting

September is the best time to set out landscape plants. Shop early to find the nicest shrubs. When planting containerized plants, try to be certain to disturb or "open up" the plants' root ball. Set out new Chrysanthemum plants this month. Plant Pansies to add color to your yard in the autumn, winter, and spring months. Groundcovers will become well established if planted now. Transplant any evergreen trees or shrubs that need moving this month. Plant the following fall vegetables in September: Mustard, Onion, Radish, and Turnip.

Pruning Do NOT prune shrubs in September, October, or November. Remove "weed" or unnecessary trees from your landscape. Rootprune any trees or plants you plan to move next spring.

Spraying Check the following landscape shrubs for the following insect pests: Hemlock (Wooly Adelgid),

Arborvitae, Hemlock, and Juniper (Spider Mites), Azalea and Pyracantha (Lace Bug), and Euonymus (Scale).

Crape Myrtle leaves may be blackened from sooty mold. Help loosen with summer oil. Spray for Peach Tree Borer on your Nectarine and Peach tree trunks. Continue with rose spray program. Keep a close eye on all fall vegetable plants. Insects and diseases are more severe in the autumn. Control the following woody weeds by spraying the recommended herbicide: Trumpet Creeper,

Bermudagrass, and Blackberry. Lawn Care

Tall Fescue lawns should be seeded this month. Remember to mulch the newly seeded areas with Wheat or Barley straw.

Fertilize and lime your Tall Fescue lawns according to soil test results. Do NOT fertilize warm season grasses like Centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, and Zoysia now. Homeowners can apply an insecticide for lawn grubs in early September, if not done in August.

Propagation Spring flowering bulbs can be divided and replanted this month. Daffodils will be the bulbs that most

likely need this consideration. Specific Chores

Mulch your favorite landscape plants for the winter. Mark trees in the woods to be transplanted next March. Clean up garden sprayers and lawn equipment if not in use. Prepare house plants to reenter your home. Bring them inside a little each day and rid them of insect

pests. If you do not have a fall vegetable garden, it is a good time to chop, burn, or discard dead vegetable

plants. Look for spring flowering bulbs to plant in October. You can get last year's Poinsettia to flower by placing it in total uninterrupted darkness for 15 hours a

day, starting the last week of the month and continuing through Thanksgiving. Do NOT leave in darkness all day.

Compiled and edited by: Molly A Sandfoss County Extension Director Secretarial support provided by: Jane McDaniel

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