an earlier era of refined elegance.
This assemblage marked the pass-
ing of the torch from longtime Bailli
Provincial Thomas Ruff to new Bailli
Provincial Tony Hirsh. The excellent
planning and execution of the event
was evidence of seamless cooperation
between the two leaders. Asheville
Bailli Beth Poslusny acted as the per-
fect host, while Bailli Dlgu National
Harold Small presided with grace.
Welcoming the Chanes
Mid-Atlantic Young Chefs Rtisseurs
Competition:Triumph in Jersey City
Blues(Cheeses, That Is)
Catching Up with a Chane
Superstar:Sarasota Bailli Honoraire
Foundation Friends Honor Roll
Corps des Ambassadors Program
By Dawn H. Grohs, South Central Charge de Presse Provincial
For three glorious days
in March, the Biltmore Estate
in Asheville, North Carolina,
hosted the South Central
Regional Assemblage, attended
by more than sixty confrres
representing seven of the
regions bailliages. The iconic
Lady on the Hill spared
nothing in making the occa-
sion special. From our arrival
at the Vanderbilt estate to our
first glimpse of the Olmsted-
designed gardens to the warm
welcome from the staff, we felt
as if we had been transported to
WELCOMED BY THE VANDERBILTS
Continued on page 5
SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
By Judith Kellogg, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Charge de Presse
Two competitors managed to pass the ini-
tial written test to qualify for the Hawaii/Pacific
Islands Regional Young Sommeliers Competition
finals. On March 29, Kauai/Oahu Professionnel
du Vin Christopher Ramelb of Southern Wine
& Spirits and Jeremiah Allen, wine director for
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION
Celebrating with Aloha
Continued on page 6
Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert, winner Professionnel du Vin
Christopher Ramelb, contestant Sommelier Jeremiah Allen, Echanson
Provincial Patrick Okubo and Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn
E X T R A !
IN THIS ISSUE:SUMMER 2015
CHANE DES RTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA!
ART & DESIGN
Published by the U.S. Confrrie de la Chane des Rtisseurs.
Copyright 2015 Chane des
Rtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All
reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without
permission of the publisher.
A Message from the Editor-in-Chief
Id like to welcome to our regional Gastronome team Chef Jennifer
M. Denlinger, M.Ed., CCC, CHE, our
new Southeast charge de presse provincial. This very motivated
professional was recently appointed by Bailli
Dlgu National Harold Small.
Another enthusiastic newcomer to the Chane, and GE!, is Buffalo
Ecuyer Jake Cappuccino, who was
recently inducted by his mother, Northeast Charge de Presse
Provincial/Buffalo Bailli Helen Cappuccino.
Jake is writing our book and movie reviews. The newly graduated
journalist has all the verve and motivation
needed for this undertaking, and we are proud to have him
This GE! marks the end of an era. Gastronome and GE! will be
redesigned beginning with Gastronome
Volume 2 2015, which will be mailed in October. All articles are
now required to be accompanied by
usable photographs. More information can be found on our website
(www.chaineus.org) under Gastronome
We are excited about the redesign and hope you will enjoy the
outcome as much as I and our editorial
and design staff have enjoyed the process of upgrading and
refreshing our publications.
We look forward to your feedback.
Marie C. AddarioEditor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome
Extra!Vice Charge de Presse National
Moving from his native Spain two decades ago, Chef Jos Andrs
introduced tapas to American palates. He has since founded a
humanitarian organization called World Central Kitchen to feed the
FOUNDATION FRIENDS HONOR ROLL
Betrand de Boutray
Lois Ferrero Gogol
Burton H. Hobson
Hospitality Culinaire, Inc.
Robin Jill Jacobs
Jane Ann Mathis
Joshua Daniel Mungavin
M. Ann Sanford
Harold S. Small
*In memory of Peter Hanowich
NOTE: Foundation Friends renewing after June 30, 2015 who are
not listed above will be included in the next issue of
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 2S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Letter from the PresidentCher Confrres et Consurs,
Our Puerto Rico Grand Chapitre team has been working tirelessly
ate an amazing experience for participants. If you have not yet
do so! (Registration materials are available online.) Our
National Council and
National Board of Directors meetings are held during the
Chapitre, and our com-
mittees meet as well. Attend and be part of the decision-making
learning what your officers have been doing to make your Chane
that it can be.
Take advantage of other travel opportunities available to Chane
When visiting other communities, seek out local Chane events and
ber establishments. Further, if you have an idea for a Chane
particularly one that you are interested in leading, contact
Chairperson Charles Radlauer for guidance.
In other news, Charge de Presse National Michelle Metter and her
have created a trade show booth to educate people about the
Chane. It was first
used, to great acclaim, at the American Culinary Federations
annual meeting in
Orlando. Thousands of chefs and other professionals who did not
the Chane beforehand are now acquainted with it! If you are
aware of an event at
which the booth may be displayed, contact the National Office.
Note as well that
our wonderful new membership brochure is available on our
website. Show it to
friends and family who are interested in the Chane and invite
them to an event.
Continue to share the Chane. We are constantly working on
organization and your membership experience. Those who bring in
bers will be recognized with Share the Chane pins for their
first, fifth, tenth,
and twenty-fifth new members.
I look forward to seeing many of you at the Grand Chapitre in
Vive la Chane!
HalHarold S. SmallBailli Dlgu National
CHANE STARS of EXCELLENCEBRONZE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Raymond Marty, Seattle bailli honoraire
Walter JL Royal, Triangle vice conseiller culinaire
Hendrik Schuitemaker, Triangle vice echanson
Congratulations to Our Newest Regional Officers and Baillis
Warren M. Barnett, Chattanooga bailli
Alex R. Darvishi, Southwest conseiller culinaire provincial
James A. Gallivan, South Central conseiller culinaire
Raimund Hofmeister, Mid-Atlantic conseiller culinaire
Matthew N. Karstetter, Delaware Valley bailli
James King, Hawaii Island bailli
Philip I. Kress, Far West chambellan provincial
Kimi J. Matar, Honolulu bailli
Dennis G. Shay, Austin bailli
Joseph Sheehan, Sacramento bailli
Chr istopher J. Speere, Hawaii/Pacific Islands
Become a Chane Ambassador!Foster Chane fellowship and experience
benefits of membership during your global travels
through the Chanes Corps des Ambassadors
Program. For more information, contact Program
Chair/Lake Shore Vice Charge de Missions Kaye
Rahn at [email protected] or (773) 860-1664.
You can dine with the fishes in Tianjin Haichang Polar Ocean
Worlds glass observation tunnel.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 3S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
SEPTEMBER11 International Young Chefs Rtisseurs
Competition Budapest, Hungary Contact: Canada Bailli Dlgu David
Ttrault at [email protected]
15-20 Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional Assemblage Honolulu,
Hawaii Contact: Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert at (808) 956-0807
or [email protected]
24-26 International Young Sommeliers Competition/Australia Grand
Chapitre Adelaide, Australia Contact: Grand Argentier Joseph Girard
at [email protected]
OCTOBER29- NOV 1 U.S. Grand Chapitre
San Juan, Puerto Rico Contact: National Office at (973)
MARCH4-6 Southwest Regional Assemblage
Houston, Texas Contact: Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon at (210)
867-4855 or [email protected]
18-19 Mid-Atlantic Regional Assemblage Atlantic City, New Jersey
Contact: Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs at (908) 522-0741 or
18-20 South Central Regional Assemblage Nashville, Tennessee
Contact: Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or
2015-2016 UPCOMING EVENTS:
MID-ATLANTIC YOUNG CHEFS RTISSEURS COMPETITION
Culinary Triumph in Jersey CityBy Percy Nikora, Mid-Atlantic
Charg de Presse Provincial
Chefs are the foundation of our beloved Chane; it is
critical that we support and nurture the next generation whose
sine we will enjoy in the coming years. On March 8,
confrres did just that by attending the regions Young Chefs
Rtisseurs Competition in Jersey City, New Jersey.
The contestants were required to produce a three-course meal
using mystery basket ingredients that included Taylor Bay
lops, lamb saddle, burdock root, Calabasas squash, bone
Asian pear, and salsify. They were judged on their kitchen
as well as on the appearance, taste, and creativity of their
While all of the young chefs delivered impressive performances,
the end, Delaware Valley Chef Rtisseur Geno Betz, who works
Philadelphias Paradiso Restaurant, was declared the winner.
We were inspired by these up-and-coming chefs and left feel-
ing confident that our taste buds will be in good hands for
come. Further confirmation of this perception came in June,
Chef Betz placed second in the National Young Chefs
(Above) Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs, Garden State Chef
Rtisseur Rickford Foo, Hudson County Community College
Chef/Instructor Sami Khouzam, winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rtisseur
Geno Betz, Garden State Chef Rtisseur Donald MacMath and Garden
State Chef Rtisseur Richard Bishop.
(Left) Winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rtisseur Geno Betz.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 4S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
1 Bailli Dlgu National Harold Small, Bailli Provincial Tony
Hirsh and Bailli Provincial Hon. Thomas Ruff with SC officers.
2 Vice Echanson National Hon. William Wortman and Bailli Dlgu
National Harold Small.
3 SC officers.
4 Myrtle Beach Bailli Allyson Hirsh, Dame Suzanne Cure, Anna
Kirby, Dame Sharon Fallon and San Diego Officier Susan Small.
5 Chevalier George Morosani, Judy Morosani, Dame Ginny Weiler
and Asheville Vice Charg de Missions Robert Weiler.
Friday evenings dress code was
cowboy casual as attendees dined at the
estates Antler Hill Barn. Multiple food sta-
tions offered tempting treats, wine flowed
freely, and a red-hot bluegrass band kept
Saturday opened with a Southern
breakfast buffet at the Inn on Biltmore
Estate, followed by work sessions focus-
ing on the Young Chefs Rtisseurs and
Young Sommeliers competitions, the Socit
Mondiale du Vin, Gastronome submission
guidelines, and Bailli Boot Camp. The after-
noon offered a private tour of the Biltmore
mansion, with a stop at the Biltmore Winery
for a special tour and tasting.
The formal dinner on Saturday night
was a celebration of all things Chane. New
members were welcomed; awards were
granted; and several in attendance received
special recognition from Chane dignitaries.
Particularly moving was a special trib-
ute to Vice Echanson National Honoraire
William Wortman, who has contributed so
much to the Chane over the years. Through
his work on behalf of the Chane Foundation
and the Socit Mondiale du Vin, includ-
ing as editor of that section in Gastronome,
and as the longtime editor of the magazines
Turning Spit section, Vice Echanson
National Honoraire Wortman exemplifies
what any organization needs to prosper and
grow. The entire assemblage was united in
thanking him for his invaluable service.
Departing delegates were sorry to leave
the magical world that is the Biltmore but
eager to create their own magic through their
respective Chane chapters.
Continued from page 1
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 5S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Star chef Thomas Keller brought in dancer-choreographer
Catherine Turocy to teach French baroque dancing to his waiters at
his New York restaurant Per Se.
1 Pete Boolukus, Robin Boolukus, Dame Kim Yoshino and Byron
2 Kauai/Oahu Ecuyer Madalyn Burr, Maile Miller, Kauai/Oahu
Bailli Kathryn Nicholson, Qi Marie Gao and Kauai/Oahu Vice
Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Diana Wehrly.
3 Chevalier Richard Turbin, Charge de Presse Provincial Judith
Kellogg, Rai Saint Chu and Kauai/Oahu Matre de Table Restaurateur
Merrimans Kapalua spent a grueling day tasting
wines and confronting difficult service challenges
put before them by the judges. The panel was
comprised of Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo,
MS, CWE, David Gochros, CWE, and Sean Isono,
sommelier at the Halekulani Resorts La Mer res-
taurant and a previous regional Young Sommeliers
The young men were able to relax at that
evenings awards dinner organized by Kauai/Oahu
Bailli Kathryn Nicholson. Livestock Tavern is one of
downtown Honolulus newest hot venues, appro-
priate for celebrating the hot new generation of
Owners/Chefs Dusty Grable and Jesse Cruz pre-
pared a delicious menu featuring tasty down-home
comfort food, reconfigured with upscale touches.
Echanson Provincial Okubo spoiled us with some
superb wines, all French and all with some nice age.
Of course, the highlight of the evening was the
announcement of the winner. Echanson Provincial
Okubo, himself a three-time regional Young
Sommeliers Competition winner, told us how closely
matched the two competitors were coming into the
competition, since they had earned identical scores
on the written exam. However, only one could win,
and that was Professionnel du Vin Ramelb, who also
won last year. We know that he and Mr. Allen both
have bright futures ahead of them.
ALCOContinued from page 1
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 6S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
(Above) SE Charge de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger and Le
Cordon Bleu College Chef/Instructor Kate Restifo.
(Right) Clockwise from top left: Blueberry Stilton, Shropshire
Cheddar Blue, Point Reyes Blue and Cambozola Blue Brie.
By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Charge de Presse
In summer, nothing could be finer than indulging in some of
finest blue cheese. Getting to know these precisely aged works
of art is
very rewarding. Pairing them with a good wine is even
The same DOC laws used for wines apply to blue cheese
tion. Every area that produces blue cheese uses a different
begin the process, mold is added to milk, and when it has
is cut into cubes. After being drained, it is packed into frames
Most of the time, long skewers are used to penetrate the cheese
vals, which allows oxygen to cultivate the mold. However, if the
is loosely packed, it is not skewered.
Blue cheese may appear yellow or light green, which are
tions that the mold has not fully oxidized. Crumble the cheese
let it sit at room temperature for a while; as the mold is
will turn blue. When a blue cheese turns bad, it becomes pink,
brown, and will have an off, strong, odor.
It is best stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in foil, plastic
or wax paper so that it can breathe. Usually served from a whole
with a long-handled cheese scoop to remove the best cheese from
center, blue cheese is often used in cooking as it melds nicely
While there are many great blues to choose from, the following
a few top-notch blue cheese/wine duos:
POINT REYES BLUE Crafted in Point Reyes, California, from raw
cows milk, this blue
cheese uses vegetarian rennet. Its tangy sweetness is perfect
dressings, dips, steak, honey, figs, stone fruit, and berries.
Domaine la Tour Vieille Banyuls Reserva N.V.
Grapes: Grenache, Grenache Gris, and Carignan
Flavors: Fortified and rich; prunes, coffee, dark cooked
CAMBOZOLA A blue Brie from the Allgu region of Germany,
Cambozola is a triple-
cream cheese made from pasteurized cows milk. The mold is the
that is used for Roquefort cheeses from France. Another
is the slightly crunchy rind bloom. Cambozola is smooth, creamy,
and rich. Pair it with fruit and honey. About $24/lb.
Maison Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne 2011
Grape: Pinot Noir
Flavors: Ripe red fruits and zesty acidity with a light body
What to Do with the Summertime Blues?
Continued on page 8
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 7S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Charge de Presse
At the young age of ninety-five, Stanley Demos is as
dynamic as ever. He is among a rare group of confrres with
fifty or more years of Chane membership. The former long-
time Sarasota bailli has many accolades to commemorate
his time in the organization. He was honored with the 1995
Presidents medal. In 2000, he became a grand officier com-
mandeur. He also holds a Bronze Star of Excellence and was
the first-ever recipient of the Mdaille Prsidentielle.
Throughout his career, he has worked at several
upscale venues, including La Maisonette in Cincinnati. For
more than twenty years, he owned the elegant Coach House
in Lexington, Kentucky. After selling the restaurant, he and
his second wife, Patricia, moved to Sarasota.
For his Chane induction in 1962, he had to travel
from Cincinnati to New York. The St. Regis Hotel was
abuzz with excitement; Mr. Demos was inducted by Grand
Chancelier Jean Valby.
To this day, his favorite meal is Florida stone crabs,
beef filet with barnaise sauce or lamb chops, salad,
and wedges of cheese followed by cherries jubilee or
Today, his life is simple. He cooks dinner every night,
except on Saturdays, when he and Patricia go out on the
town. His favorite drink is non-alcoholic German beer.
Mr. Demos is proud to have been a member since
soon after the U.S. Chane was founded. He not only loves
good meals but the wonderful people he has met in the
1 Induction at St. Regis Hotel, New York, 1962: Matre Rtisseur
Stanley Demos, Bailli Dlgu National Edward Benenson, Grand Matre
George Portmann and Grand Chancelier Jean Valby.
2 Stanley Demos and Patricia Demos.
3 Recipient of the Mdaille Prsidentielle, 2005.
Catching Up with a Chane Superstar: Sarasota Bailli Honoraire
Shropshire cheese, which is produced using the Stilton method,
blue cheddar from Nottinghamshire, in Englands Leicestershire
It uses pasteurized cows milk, vegetarian rennet, annatto for
and the same mold that is used in Roquefort cheese. It needs to
at least twelve weeks and is characterized by a salty, musty
mold crystals on the rind. About $20/lb.
Chteau Barbe Blanche 2010
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Flavors: Red and black currant, velvety tannins, hints of
BLUEBERRY STILTON Fruit-bearing Stilton cheese, such as
Blueberry Stilton, is also known as
white Stilton, or immature blue cheese. It uses full-cream cows
is not inoculated with mold, and is only about four weeks old,
it dense and crumbly. White Stiltons can only be produced in
Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, or Leicestershire regions. It is
a dessert cheese, although it is quite tasty on salad with
ing. Use it for cheesecake or pair with cookies, fresh
blueberries, or field
greens. About $20/lb.
Osborne Pedro Ximnez Sherry
Grape: Pedro Ximnez
Flavors: Sherry with raisins, toffee, and chocolate; long,
Continued from page 7
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 8S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
By Jake Cappuccino, Buffalo Ecuyer
JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI
Chef Jiro Ono literally dreams about creating sushi, his passion
reaching a point that few ever attain. Jiro Dreams of Sushi
documents his life and the lives of his sons at his three-star
Michelin restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro. His is a lifelong love affair
This documentary put David Gelb on the map with good reason. Not
only does Gelb show Jiros story, but he also documents the
elaborate work that goes into producing the best sushi in the
world. We meet tuna dealers, rice sellers, and the restaurants
apprentices, all of whom strive for Jiros approval in his pursuit
For Jiro, simplicity and minimalism are perfection. Of the
hundreds of shots of sushi seen throughout the movie, few feature
more than one type of seafood, rice, and a glaze of soy sauce. And
yet, insists Japanese food writer Yamamoto, who is featured heavily
in the documentary, the sushi is consistently the best that he has
This film is not only for foodies (though the story of the sushi
is reason enough for foodies); its for anybody curious about a mans
journey toward unattainable perfection and the incredible results
that emerge from that journey. Find Jiro Dreams of Sushi on
Netflixs documentary series is more than food television. Chefs
Table not only showcases innovative, elegant food but also shares
the humanity, humor, and challenges that are part of the journey
for some of the worlds most renowned culinarians. Whether its
postmodern cuisine or farm-to-table cooking, director David Gelb
uses the same style as in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, managing to capture
the sheer beauty, creativity, thoughtfulness, and extravagance of
the food on film. Each episode highlights some of the chefs most
As one writer said in an interview about one of the featured
chefs, the restaurants and chefs are not just about the food.
Neither is Chefs Table. The series is about the art and the story
behind the food, and the experience, memory, and change that
exceptional food and a gifted chef can create. Catch Chefs Table at
your leisure on Netflix for compelling stories and beautiful
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 9S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
TRAVEL THE WORLD OF THE CHANE!
For information, visit www.chaineus.org. This Chane cruise
aboard the SeaDream (which Forbes rated the Best Small Luxury
Cruise Ship of 2015) will include, exclusively for Chane members,
fabulous pre- and post-cruise activities in Athens and Rome, as
well as a delectable
special dining experience on the isle of Capri or the Amalfi
The amazing July 2-9, 2016 Chane des Rtisseurs
Athens to Rome SeaDream Luxury Mediterranean Yacht Cruise
is filling up, with only a limited number of cabins
Albany Hits the High SeasBy William Harris, Bailli
What could enhance the inherently delightful experience of a
cruise? Sharing it with fellow fun-loving Chane members, which
cisely what fourteen Albany Bailliage members did from October
A private bus supplied with snacks and libations took us to
Boston pier, where we boarded the Royal Caribbeans Brilliance
the Seas. Our ports of call included Halifax, Nova Scotia; Saint
New Brunswick; and Bar Harbor and Portland, Maine. During
day, attendees engaged in individual activities, reconvening for
proudly wearing their Chane decorations. These were a source of
est to fellow passengers, and we cheerfully fielded questions
Chane. We believe that several will be contacting local
requests to be put on their guest lists.
Our group dined in three of the ships specialty restaurants:
Chops Grille, and the elegant Chefs Table. On other evenings,
meal in the main dining room, we adjourned to one of the many
to enjoy live entertainment. Our lively group sang along with
player and stayed until closing.
On the bus trip back to Albany, we unanimously agreed to
another cruise, this time heading south. Destination: the
BUFFALO SOCIT MONDIALE DU VIN
Gran Selezione Wine EventBy Jacqueline Cappuccino, Vice Charge
The 31 Club was the perfect
venue for the Buffalo Mondiales Gran
Selezione wine event on October
15. The first flight was poured soon
after attendees arrived. Tenuta di
Nozzole Chianti Classico la Forra
Gran Selezione 2011, with its fruit and
floral notes, paired well with an array
of cheeses. Fattoria Viticcio Beatrice
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011
possessed fruit and mineral notes, while
the fuller Luiano Ottantuno Chianti
Classico Gran Selezione offered oaky
and vanilla flavors.
The next flight was San Felice
Chianti Classico Riserva Il Grigio Gran
Selezione 2010 and Felsina Chianti
Classico Rancia Riserva 2010. The San
Felice is comprised of 80% Sangiovese,
with the remaining 20% reflecting
a combination of some of the two
hundred-plus forgotten varietals in the
estates vitiarium. These forgotten vari-
etals add intrigue to this complex, albeit
The last flight was Castello di Ama
Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran
Selezione 2010 and Castello di Ama
Haiku 2010. The Haiku, comprised of
50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and 25%
Cabernet Franc, seemed to be the favor-
ite of this flight. Both wines had intense
red fruit flavors that hit our noses and
taste buds immediately.
The wonderful 31 Club team
created a culinary frame for the art
winesof the evening. The wines
inspired great conversation among
attendees, including talk of a pos-
sible Mondiale trip to Italy to explore
(Above) Charge de Presse Provincial/Bailli Helen Cappuccino and
Chambellan Provincial Mont Stern.
(Below) Chevalier Wyatt Arthurs and Vice Echanson Eric
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 1S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Penguins and Dinner and Art, Oh My! By Graig Smith, Vice Charg
On the beautiful evening of September 14,
Cincinnati Bailliage members gathered at the 21c
Museum Hotel for their fall dinner. The first 21c
Museum Hotel opened in Louisville in 2006. There
are now four 21c Museum Hotel locations, includ-
ing Cincinnati; the unique concept combines a contemporary art
museum, boutique hotel, and fabulous restaurant in
one space. The penguin mascot, a different color for each city,
adds a fun dimension. Our event was the culmination
of many months of planning by newly appointed Vice Conseiller
Gastronomique Barbara Lancor, Vice Echanson Mike
Monnin, and Chef Michael Paley of the hotels Metropole
The receptionand our introduction to the 21c concept was held in
a gallery filled with stunning contemporary
artwork. This first event that Vice Conseiller Gastronomique
Lancor organized was a huge success, and we are excited
to see what else she has in store for us.
The 21c Museum Hotel is just one example of the vibrant makeover
occurring in downtown Cincinnati. Our
bailliage is fortunate to be caught up in this revolution of
food, wine, and the arts. We have many exciting new ven-
ues to experience, and they are right in our own backyard! We
are finding there really is no place like home here
Dner des Joyeuses Ftes By Allison Reams, Bailli
At the Connecticut Bailliages holiday celebration on December
the twenty-nine attendees included several confrres from the
Bailliage led by Bailli Gary Dunn. When the plans were being
this delightful event, we couldnt think of a more fitting venue
Chane holiday dinner than a French restaurant.
Yet, we didnt want to go to just any French restaurant. We
the one recently voted the best French restaurant in Connecticut
Connecticut magazine. Even more impressive, it was also voted
overall restaurant in Connecticut by readers of the
The restaurant, of course, is Bernards, located in historic
Ridgefield and housed in a circa-1875 inn that was lovingly
formed into an award-winning dining destination. Owner/Chef
Bouissou runs the restaurant with his wife/business partner,
The couple has worked wonderfully with our chapter on many
sions, but for this celebration, they really pulled out all the
Vice Chancelier-Argentier Susan Verschoor, Carol Monnin, Kathryn
Bender, Matre Htelier Russell Menkes and Vice Conseiller
Gastronomique Barbara Lancor.
Professionnel du Vin Sharon Rychlik and Bailli Allison
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 2S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Culinary Explosion By Sandy Cutter, Vice Charge de Presse
In recent years, as the Des Moines dining scene has
exploded, the Des Moines Bailliage has been making
a concerted effort to support local establishments and
spread the word about the citys finest culinary hot spots.
Brothers Steve and Joe Logsdon hosted a wonderful
event for the Des Moines Chapter on November 9. While
Joe Logsdon, owner/chef of La Mie restaurant, prepared
the menu, his brother lent the upscale, minimalist space
of his East Village restaurant, Lucca. Chef Joe brought
along Chef de Cuisine Mike Kalhorn to help prepare the
feast, which began with gougres with wild mushroom
mousse and foie gras terrine. They continued to tantalize
with lobster salad and Parisian gnocchi before present-
ing espelette-spiced chicken. (Espelette is a chili pepper
grown in the Basque region of France and is considered
mildly hot.) Finally, we were treated to raspberry-orange
vol-au-vent with hazelnuts and chocolate ganache. Each
course was served with a remarkable wine, making for
DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIT MONDIALE DU VIN
Kistler Wine DinnerBy Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Charge de Presse
The name Kistler is synonymous with world-class Chardonnay. In
fact, Robert Parker
is quoted as saying, If the Kistler Winery could be magically
transported to the middle of
Burgundys Cte dOr, it would quickly gain a reputation as
glorious as any producer of
Burgundy grand crus.
On October 19, the Delaware Valley Mondiale gathered at
Cichonskis restaurant Ela in Philadelphia to sample Kistler
wines with Master of Wine
Geoff Labitzke. Mr. Labitzke is director of sales and marketing
for Kistler and has served as
a judge for the National Young Sommeliers Competition.
The first dinner course featured a rare Kistler Hyde Vineyard
which sparkled with cobia crudo. Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard
Chardonnay 2011 paired per-
fectly with black-pepper fusilli with coddled egg.
For the reds, we savored Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot
Noir 2013 with crispy
pork belly and scallop sptzle, finishing with Kistler Vineyard
Pinot Noir 2012 paired with
pulled short rib, pecan pudding, and red cabbage.
Kistler wines are indeed glorious, and it was very special to
share them and the spirit
of Chane camaraderie with fellow members.
Chevalier William Goldman and Ellie Goldman.
Feasting at 15th Street Fisheries By Jana Soeldner Danger,
Southeast Charge de Presse Provincial Honoraire
On January 20, Fort Lauderdale Bailliage members headed to the
Lauderdale Marina for dinner at a local landmark known for its
and homemade breads. The setting of the two-story 15th Street
rant, with its beautiful Intercoastal Waterway views, is as much
a draw as the
In South Florida, restaurants come and go like mayflies, but
Fisheries has been attracting locals and tourists since 1978. We
where a warren of small dining rooms creates a cozy ambiance.
reception, Owner Ted Drum mingled with our group and later sat
down to dine
Executive Chef Lenny Judice, who is experienced in classic
fusion, New World, and other cuisines, created an outstanding
menu. His love
for food began in childhood, when he helped out in the kitchen
of his mothers
restaurant in Santurce, Puerto Rico.
The five-course feast, featuring flavorful meats as well as the
which Fisheries is famous, showcased Chef Judices skill and
creativity. At eve-
nings end, the kitchen brigade came out to take a bow, and
Bailli Jack Kane
presented Chef Judice with a plaque to commemorate the
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 3S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
The Grapes of New Jersey By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice Charge de
La Grande Cave du New Jersey Chapter members are interested in
both growing their
wine cellar and learning about all aspects of wine. Robert
Wilson, one of the owners of
Unionville Vineyards located in Hunterdon Countys beautiful farm
country, invited confrres
to a tasting at the winery on September 28.
Despite being the most densely populated state in the country,
New Jersey is commit-
ted to preserving its farmlands. Unionville Vineyards is part of
its Farmland Preservation
Program, which enables continued investment in maintaining
viable agricultural enterprises
in the Garden State. Attendees were enthralled by Mr. Wilsons
account of the winerys his-
tory and awed by the character and quality of the wines
Dinner took place down the road in Flemington, at acclaimed
McPhersons Matts Red Rooster Grill. With the delicious meal, we
continued to sip
Unionville wines. In a standout pairing, Unionville Pheasant
Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2012
accompanied the scallops. Although this wine had received raves
when tasted earlier in the
evening, it earned additional accolades when enjoyed with the
Although the evening was packed with information, the take-home
message seemed to
be the impressive potential of New Jersey grapes. In addition to
food, the Garden State is capable of producing the
highest-caliber farm-to-glass wines as well.
Welcoming Autumn at the Canoe Club By Jennifer Dunn, Vice
Located on the banks of the Connecticut River, the exclusive
Hartford Canoe Club, with its handsome hunting-lodge dcor,
in autumn for the Hartford Bailliage on November 15 with
ceiling stone fireplaces laid with roaring fires, log beams, an
terrace for the reception, and plenty of antlers on the walls.
nificently decorated dining table spanned the room, providing a
colorful fall foliage, pomegranates, candles, glassware, and a
themed service. On one side of the room, the Chane flag hung
the blazing fire; on the other, a jazz duo played tuneful
The Canoe Club began as a private mens dining club in 1879
and has remained faithful to this tradition ever since, thus
members the unique opportunity to taste Chef Ana Robainas
tive cuisine for the first time, thanks to club member Vice
Missions Frank Szilagyi, who hosted the event. Attendees stayed
into the evening to enjoy drinks and cigars by the fire,
gifts of chocolate turkeys and a sense of convivial joy.Vice
Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Dunn and Bailli Gary Dunn.
A West African chimp studys leading researcher, Kimberley
Hockings, reported that a female consorted more often with a male
who gave her stolen papayas. Dames, beware of chevaliers bearing
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 4S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
A New FavoriteBy Jerome Siller, Bailli
The newly named Ristorante Da Claudio occupies the space that
La Pace restaurant, host to numerous past Chane events. Owner
Claudio Zustovich and
his son, Fabrizio Zustovich, along with Chef Guiseppe
Capobianco, ensure that the venue
maintains the laudable traditions of its predecessor by using
the finest products to create
The Long Island Bailliage dined there on November 2. At the
enjoyed five delicious hors doeuvres, paired with Roederer
Estate champagne. Dinner offered
many culinary highlights, including mushroom soup, branzino
filet with truffled risotto, and
the superb entre of veal rack with brandied mushrooms, cream
sauce, mashed potatoes, and
cheese-glazed asparagus. Dessert was puff pastry with
strawberries and cream coupled with a
fabulous chocolate mousse cake.
Port was served as a final treat. The evenings wines included a
Sauvignon, a Simi Sauvignon Blanc, and a Ruffino Pinot Grigio
LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
Year of the Sheep Celebration By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice
Charge de Presse
The Chinese New Year, or Spring Festival, is an important
tion in China. On February 22, the La Grande Cave du New
Bailliage rang in the Year of the Sheep with a Chinese New Year
tion at Cathay 22, located in Springfield, New Jersey. The
was decorated in redthe Chinese symbol for good luck.
At the reception, attendees were served Domaine Chadon toile
Brut N.V. to enjoy with honey spare ribs, seafood shumai, and
Chinese eggplant stuffed with pork.
After the first seated course of savory wonton soup, dinner
served family style, with cold preparations followed by hot
Matched with an exquisite Domaine Lafarge Auxey-Duresses les
Ctes 2010, the cold dishes included beef tenderloin, sesame
Buddhas delight, ban-ban chicken, and spinach seaweed.
For the hot dishes, we savored mu-shu pork, shrimp with
Marnier sauce, garlic-sauted cabbage, fish with ginger-scallion
and ya-call fried rice. Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne
les Grands Chaillots 2011, with concentrated raspberry fruit,
nied the array of flavorful dishes.
We ended the celebration with wishes for a prosperous new
golden sesame bananas, a sampling of different Sauternes from
chapters cellar, and hearty applause for Owner/Chef Philip
Another Gem at Pearl East By Jerome Siller, Bailli
Despite having postponed the original event for two weeks
due to snow, the Long Island Bailliage managed to fill the
fully decorated private room of Pearl East, in Manhasset,
York, on March 15. The dynamic force behind this eagerly
pated annual event is Owner Cathy Huang, who ensures
of the highest levels of food and service possible.
The champagne reception featuring nine delicious appetiz-
ers was followed by an eight-course dinner enhanced by
food sculptures. Of special note was the service and culinary
effectiveness in maintaining the flow of dishes and fostering a
atmosphere. Of course, none of this would have been possible
without the indefatigable leadership of Owner Huang.
It is gratifying that our chapter often hosts confrres from
other bailliages. From Bergen County we welcomed Bailli Oleh
Bachynsky, Bailli Honoraire Sarah Bachynsky, Vice Conseiller
Gastronomique Gail Taenzler, and Paul Taenzler. Chevalier
Fazzi and Marysue Robbins made the trip from Albany, while
Officier Richard Maidman and Vice Charg de Missions Grant
visited from the New York Chapter. High praise was offered
these guests, who professed that it was one of the best Chane
ners they had ever attended.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 5S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
The Reason They Built the Brooklyn Bridge By Omar Khan, Vice
According to one Zagat reviewer,
Owner/Chef Mark Lahms Brooklyn eatery
Henrys Endstill flourishing forty-plus
years after its inceptionis the reason
they built the Brooklyn Bridge. On
November 5, the New York Bailliage made
the crossing for a game feast paired with an
array of lively wines.
The restaurants charming, rustic
interior was aglow with warmth and cama-
raderie. Diners especially enjoyed spiced
kangaroo loin with sweet potato. Gustatory
excitement mounted with the presentation
of elk chop in Madeira saucesucculent,
tender, with rich texture and great appeal.
The meal concluded with twenty-
one-layer crpe, served with a Rare Wine
Company New York Malmsey from the
historic Thomas Jefferson Series. The suc-
cession of flavors reinforced and enhanced
each other: gossamer-light crpes with
vibrant raspberry and rich custard married
with a wine exhibiting grace, balance, an
undercurrent of sweetness, and an exqui-
site, lingering finish.
It was a game night indeed, com-
plete with exceptional cuisine, wonderful
hospitality from Chef Lahm and his team,
and that signature Chane spirit that takes
everything to a new level.
Culinary Adventure at the Gander By Emily Klein, Vice Charge de
On the rainy night of October 15, the New York Bailliage faced
elements in anticipation of a culinary reward. And rewarded we
Owner/Chef Jesse Schenker left it all on the field, as they say,
at his latest
venture, the Gander.
Attendees were escorted to a private dining room, where their
nature pink bubbly awaited them, complemented by three delicious
doeuvres. The meal highlights included crisp, spicy chorizo and
which was meaty and simply seasoned to work in harmony with a
cate, paper-thin slice of terrine and earthy mushroom pure.
For dessert, we enjoyed La Tur cheesecake with apple crisp,
seeds, and Tellicherry pepper. The cheesecake was creamy and
with a hint of pepper, sitting atop the crisp, while the apple
alongside compote emboldened by dark caramel painted underneath.
sweet treat was the perfect end to a magnificent meal.
Before departing, we thanked Chef Schenker and Wine Director
Pitcher for treating us to an extraordinary dining
Bailli Jim Wallick.
Albany Officier Commandeur/Matre Rtisseur Louis Bruno, Jr.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 6S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Vice Charge de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, Dame Pam Wise, Dame
Patricia Parker Weber and Dame Fran Chudnow.
WEST PALM BEACH
Tribute Dinner at Frenchmans Creek By Susan Esson, Vice Charge
On April 20,West Palm Beach
Bailliage members gathered for
a black-tie affair at the ever-chic
Frenchmans Creek, a residential
country club located in Jupiter,
Florida, and home to Matre de Table
Restaurateur Achal Goswami.
At the reception, we toasted the
memory of Grand Officier Matre
Henry Warren, who passed away
earlier this year. A co-founder of the
West Palm Beach Chapter, Grand
Officier Matre Warren was the only
person in the history of the Chane
to receive a haut commandeur pin,
which was presented to him at the
Grand Chapitre in New Orleans
Executive Chef Bernd
Linsenmayers creative flavor profiles
and stunning presentations made
for an unparalleled dining experi-
ence. The scrumptious courses were
perfectly paired with wines through
collaboration by Beverage Manager
Stephen Fisher, Bailli Honoraire
Douglas Martin, Vice Chancelier-
Argentier Jeffrey Blitz, and Bailli
Leila Warren. The waitstaff per-
formed beautifully, delivering their
finest five-star service.
It was the perfect way to wrap
up the 2014-2015 season and left us
eager to start the 2015-2016 season!
Cooking with the Dames at Central Market By Amy White, Dame de
The Central Market Cooking School was the setting
for the San Antonio Bailliages La Chane des Fleurs
event on the lovely fall day of November 1.Three of
the schools talented chefs guided the sixteen attendees
through a Gulf Coast Seafood 101 course in which four delicious
recipes were prepared and later enjoyed.
To start, attendees were divided into four groups and assigned
food preparation stations. A chef guided them
through the first recipe of jalapeo-corn crab cakes. The second
preparation, wilted spinach with warm bacon vin-
aigrette, was the perfect complement to the crab cakes. Blue
cheese and walnuts finished the salad beautifully.
The third preparation, chicken-fried oysters, was a real treat.
The oysters, which had come from Washington
State, were also added to the salad. Wonderful! The final recipe
was pecan-crusted fish filets.
An extension of the San Antonio Chapter, La Chane des Fleurs has
been enjoying activities such as fashion
shows, cooking classes, and visits to art galleries and wineries
quarterly for the past four years. Its members are
from diverse backgrounds but all are bright, inquisitive women
who share a love of food and wine!
New York and Chicago will be the first to take advantage of
UberEATS, a food delivery service by the transportation giant Uber,
who tested the markets in Barcelona and Los Angeles. It is ready to
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 7S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
WEST PALM BEACH
New Year, New Members By Susan Esson, Vice Charge de Presse
On February 19, West Palm Beach Bailliage members cele-
brated the Chinese New Year, heralding the Year of the Sheep,
an induction dinner at Echo Palm Beach. Bailli Provincial
Radlauer and Bailli Leila Warren inducted Dame de la Chane
Dolan and Chevalier Steven Rayburn before elevating Vice
de Presse Susan Esson.
Asian culinary delights were showcased through a resplendent
menu executed under the guidance of Food and Beverage
Officier Matre de Table Htelier Nick Velardo. Among the many
delicacies were shark fin-crab soup, Peking duck lotus buns,
fun noodles with Kurobuta pork, banana leaf-wrapped sea
and chocolate-dipped fortune cookies.
Attendees departed not only with their yin and yang intact
also with little red envelopes filled with lucky money! What a
way to start off the new year!
WEST PALM BEACH
Evening to Remember By Susan Esson, Vice Charge de Presse
Upon learning that Bailli Honoraire Douglas Martin had
contributed Siberian osetra caviar, Platinum Russian Vodka, and
Heidseick Rare Millsime Brut 2002 to the West Palm Beach
dinner at Trevini Ristorante on March 23, attendees knew they
for a memorable evening.
The reception was held in the Palm Beach venues intimate
yard. We mixed and mingled while savoring delectable appetizers
jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail, mojito-cured salmon tartare, and
cheese-filled bresaola della Valtellina.
A private dining room was the setting for the six-course
which was a flavorful tour of Italy paired with well-chosen
lovely meal concluded with Chteau dYquem 1994 served from
nums. Capping an evening of many treats, Bailli Honoraire Martin
graciously donated this sumptuous Sauternes from his private
This evening, as is every evening under the leadership of
Leila Warren, was truly one to remember.
Competition WinnersYOUNG CHEFS RTISSEURS FAR WEST Mateo Cancio
La Posada Lodge and Casitas, Tucson, AZ
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Melanie Tancino Sheraton Waikiki,
MID-ATLANTIC Geno Betz Paradiso, Philadelphia, PA
MIDWEST Matthew Phillips Blue Hills Country Club, Kansas City,
NORTHEAST Spyridon Giannakoulopolous Three Village Inn, Stony
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Oleg Vetkov Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTH CENTRAL Matthew Pate Biltmore Forest Country Club,
SOUTHEAST Devin Davis Tampa, FL
SOUTHWEST Jernimo Espiritu JW Marriott, San Antonio, TX
YOUNG SOMMELIERS FAR WEST Micah Clark Steak & Whisky,
Hermosa Beach, CA
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Christopher Ramelb Southern Wine &
Spirits, Honolulu, HI
MID-ATLANTIC John Filkins Potomac Selections, Inc., Hyattsville,
MIDWEST Andrey Ivanov Reeds American Table, St. Louis, MO
NORTHEAST Mia Van de Water North End Grill, New York, NY
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Jackson Rohrbaugh Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTH CENTRAL Femi Oyediran Charleston Place Hotel, Charleston,
SOUTHEAST Jill Davis Four Seasons at Walt Disney World, Orlando,
SOUTHWEST Kelly Wooldridge Mizuna Restaurant/Bonanno, Denver,
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 8S U M M E R 2 0 1 5