an earlier era of refined elegance. This assemblage marked the pass- ing of the torch from longtime Bailli Provincial Thomas Ruff to new Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh. The excellent planning and execution of the event was evidence of seamless cooperation between the two leaders. Asheville Bailli Beth Poslusny acted as the per- fect host, while Bailli Délégué National Harold Small presided with grace. Welcoming the Chaîne’s Newest Leaders PAGE 3 ••••••••• Mid-Atlantic Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition: Triumph in Jersey City PAGE 4 ••••••••• The Summertime Blues (Cheeses, That Is) PAGE 7 ••••••••• Catching Up with a Chaîne Superstar: Sarasota Bailli Honoraire Stanley Demos PAGE 8 ••••••••• Culinary Colloquy PAGE 9 ••••••••• National Calendar Foundation Friends Honor Roll Corps des Ambassadors Program Bailliage Events By Dawn H. Grohs, South Central Chargée de Presse Provincial For three glorious days in March, the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, hosted the South Central Regional Assemblage, attended by more than sixty confrères representing seven of the region’s bailliages. The iconic “Lady on the Hill” spared nothing in making the occa- sion special. From our arrival at the Vanderbilt estate to our first glimpse of the Olmsted- designed gardens to the warm welcome from the staff, we felt as if we had been transported to WELCOMED BY THE VANDERBILTS Continued on page 5 SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE By Judith Kellogg, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial Two competitors managed to pass the ini- tial written test to qualify for the Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional Young Sommeliers Competition finals. On March 29, Kauai/Oahu Professionnel du Vin Christopher Ramelb of Southern Wine & Spirits and Jeremiah Allen, wine director for HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION Celebrating with Aloha Continued on page 6 Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert, winner Professionnel du Vin Christopher Ramelb, contestant Sommelier Jeremiah Allen, Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo and Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn Nicholson. 1 EXTRA! IN THIS ISSUE: SUMMER 2015
Transcript
an earlier era of refined elegance.
This assemblage marked the pass-
ing of the torch from longtime Bailli
Provincial Thomas Ruff to new Bailli
Provincial Tony Hirsh. The excellent
planning and execution of the event
was evidence of seamless cooperation
between the two leaders. Asheville
Bailli Beth Poslusny acted as the per-
fect host, while Bailli Délégué National
Harold Small presided with grace.
Welcoming the Chaîne’s
Newest Leaders
PAGE 3
• • • • • • • • •
Mid-Atlantic Young Chefs Rôtisseurs
Competition:Triumph in Jersey City
PAGE 4
• • • • • • • • •
The Summertime
Blues(Cheeses, That Is)
PAGE 7
• • • • • • • • •
Catching Up with a Chaîne
Superstar:Sarasota Bailli Honoraire
Stanley Demos
PAGE 8
• • • • • • • • •
Culinary Colloquy
PAGE 9
• • • • • • • • •
National Calendar
Foundation Friends Honor Roll
Corps des Ambassadors Program
Bailliage Events
By Dawn H. Grohs, South Central Chargée de Presse Provincial
For three glorious days
in March, the Biltmore Estate
in Asheville, North Carolina,
hosted the South Central
Regional Assemblage, attended
by more than sixty confrères
representing seven of the
region’s bailliages. The iconic
“Lady on the Hill” spared
nothing in making the occa-
sion special. From our arrival
at the Vanderbilt estate to our
first glimpse of the Olmsted-
designed gardens to the warm
welcome from the staff, we felt
as if we had been transported to
WELCOMED BY THE VANDERBILTS
Continued on page 5
SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
By Judith Kellogg, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial
Two competitors managed to pass the ini-
tial written test to qualify for the Hawaii/Pacific
Islands Regional Young Sommeliers Competition
finals. On March 29, Kauai/Oahu Professionnel
du Vin Christopher Ramelb of Southern Wine
& Spirits and Jeremiah Allen, wine director for
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION
Celebrating with Aloha
Continued on page 6
Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert, winner Professionnel du Vin Christopher Ramelb, contestant Sommelier Jeremiah Allen, Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo and Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn Nicholson.
1
E X T R A !
IN THIS ISSUE:SUMMER 2015
CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA!
SUMMER 2015
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Marie Addario
PUBLISHER
Michelle Metter
ART & DESIGN
artattack!creative
MANAGING EDITOR
Carolyn March
Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2015 Chaîne des
Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All rights
reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the
permission of the publisher.
A Message from the Editor-in-Chief
I’d like to welcome to our regional Gastronome team Chef Jennifer M. Denlinger, M.Ed., CCC, CHE, our
new Southeast chargée de presse provincial. This very motivated professional was recently appointed by Bailli
Délégué National Harold Small.
Another enthusiastic newcomer to the Chaîne, and GE!, is Buffalo Ecuyer Jake Cappuccino, who was
recently inducted by his mother, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli Helen Cappuccino.
Jake is writing our book and movie reviews. The newly graduated journalist has all the verve and motivation
needed for this undertaking, and we are proud to have him aboard.
This GE! marks the end of an era. Gastronome and GE! will be redesigned beginning with Gastronome
Volume 2 2015, which will be mailed in October. All articles are now required to be accompanied by
usable photographs. More information can be found on our website (www.chaineus.org) under Gastronome
submissions.
We are excited about the redesign and hope you will enjoy the outcome as much as I and our editorial
and design staff have enjoyed the process of upgrading and refreshing our publications.
We look forward to your feedback.
Marie C. AddarioEditor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra!Vice Chargée de Presse National
Moving from his native Spain two decades ago, Chef José Andrés introduced tapas to American palates. He has since founded a humanitarian organization called World Central Kitchen to feed the hungry.
FOUNDATION FRIENDS HONOR ROLL
Dominick Addario
Marie Addario
Anonymous
Barbara Axel
Barbara Burson
John Burson
Keith Chappell
Rufus Cressend
Bert Cutino
Betrand de Boutray
Ira Falk
Lois Ferrero Gogol
Burton H. Hobson
Hospitality Culinaire, Inc.
Robin Jill Jacobs
Michael Kalkstein
Cheryl Kenny
Jill Kummer*
Bruce Liebert
Shelly Margolis
Jane Ann Mathis
Sandi Moran
Tom Moran
Joshua Daniel Mungavin
Marcelo Obén
Michael Parmet
William Salomon
M. Ann Sanford
Harold S. Small
Mont Stern
Michael Ty
Irwin Weinberg
Renee Wilmeth
William Wortman
*In memory of Peter Hanowich
NOTE: Foundation Friends renewing after June 30, 2015 who are not listed above will be included in the next issue of Gastronome.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 2S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Competition Budapest, Hungary Contact: Canada Bailli Délégué David Tétrault at [email protected]
15-20 Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional Assemblage Honolulu, Hawaii Contact: Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert at (808) 956-0807 or [email protected]
24-26 International Young Sommeliers Competition/Australia Grand Chapitre Adelaide, Australia Contact: Grand Argentier Joseph Girard at [email protected]
OCTOBER29- NOV 1 U.S. Grand Chapitre
San Juan, Puerto Rico Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200
MARCH4-6 Southwest Regional Assemblage
Houston, Texas Contact: Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon at (210) 867-4855 or [email protected]
18-19 Mid-Atlantic Regional Assemblage Atlantic City, New Jersey Contact: Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs at (908) 522-0741 or [email protected]
18-20 South Central Regional Assemblage Nashville, Tennessee Contact: Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or [email protected]
2015-2016 UPCOMING EVENTS:
MID-ATLANTIC YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Culinary Triumph in Jersey CityBy Percy Nikora, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial
Chefs are the foundation of our beloved Chaîne; it is therefore
critical that we support and nurture the next generation whose cui-
sine we will enjoy in the coming years. On March 8, Mid-Atlantic
confrères did just that by attending the region’s Young Chefs
Rôtisseurs Competition in Jersey City, New Jersey.
The contestants were required to produce a three-course meal
using mystery basket ingredients that included Taylor Bay scal-
lops, lamb saddle, burdock root, Calabasas squash, bone marrow,
Asian pear, and salsify. They were judged on their kitchen skills
as well as on the appearance, taste, and creativity of their dishes.
While all of the young chefs delivered impressive performances, in
the end, Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz, who works at
Philadelphia’s Paradiso Restaurant, was declared the winner.
We were inspired by these up-and-coming chefs and left feel-
ing confident that our taste buds will be in good hands for years to
come. Further confirmation of this perception came in June, when
Chef Betz placed second in the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs
Competition!
(Above) Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs, Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Rickford Foo, Hudson County Community College Chef/Instructor Sami Khouzam, winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz, Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Donald MacMath and Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Richard Bishop.
(Left) Winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz.
PHO
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G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 4S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
1 Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh and Bailli Provincial Hon. Thomas Ruff with SC officers.
2 Vice Echanson National Hon. William Wortman and Bailli Délégué National Harold Small.
3 SC officers.
4 Myrtle Beach Bailli Allyson Hirsh, Dame Suzanne Cure, Anna Kirby, Dame Sharon Fallon and San Diego Officier Susan Small.
5 Chevalier George Morosani, Judy Morosani, Dame Ginny Weiler and Asheville Vice Chargé de Missions Robert Weiler.
Friday evening’s dress code was
“cowboy casual” as attendees dined at the
estate’s Antler Hill Barn. Multiple food sta-
tions offered tempting treats, wine flowed
freely, and a red-hot bluegrass band kept
things lively.
Saturday opened with a Southern
breakfast buffet at the Inn on Biltmore
Estate, followed by work sessions focus-
ing on the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and
Young Sommeliers competitions, the Société
Mondiale du Vin, Gastronome submission
guidelines, and Bailli Boot Camp. The after-
noon offered a private tour of the Biltmore
mansion, with a stop at the Biltmore Winery
for a special tour and tasting.
The formal dinner on Saturday night
was a celebration of all things Chaîne. New
members were welcomed; awards were
granted; and several in attendance received
special recognition from Chaîne dignitaries.
Particularly moving was a special trib-
ute to Vice Echanson National Honoraire
William Wortman, who has contributed so
much to the Chaîne over the years. Through
his work on behalf of the Chaîne Foundation
and the Société Mondiale du Vin, includ-
ing as editor of that section in Gastronome,
and as the longtime editor of the magazine’s
“Turning Spit” section, Vice Echanson
National Honoraire Wortman exemplifies
what any organization needs to prosper and
grow. The entire assemblage was united in
thanking him for his invaluable service.
Departing delegates were sorry to leave
the magical world that is the Biltmore but
eager to create their own magic through their
respective Chaîne chapters.
Continued from page 1
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4
5
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G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 5S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
Star chef Thomas Keller brought in dancer-choreographer Catherine Turocy to teach French baroque dancing to his waiters at his New York restaurant Per Se.
1 Pete Boolukus, Robin Boolukus, Dame Kim Yoshino and Byron Yoshino.
3 Chevalier Richard Turbin, Chargée de Presse Provincial Judith Kellogg, Rai Saint Chu and Kauai/Oahu Maître de Table Restaurateur John Smiley.
Merriman’s Kapalua spent a grueling day tasting
wines and confronting difficult service challenges
put before them by the judges. The panel was
comprised of Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo,
MS, CWE, David Gochros, CWE, and Sean Isono,
sommelier at the Halekulani Resort’s La Mer res-
taurant and a previous regional Young Sommeliers
Competition winner.
The young men were able to relax at that
evening’s awards dinner organized by Kauai/Oahu
Bailli Kathryn Nicholson. Livestock Tavern is one of
downtown Honolulu’s newest “hot” venues, appro-
priate for celebrating the “hot” new generation of
wine experts.
Owners/Chefs Dusty Grable and Jesse Cruz pre-
pared a delicious menu featuring tasty “down-home”
comfort food, reconfigured with upscale touches.
Echanson Provincial Okubo spoiled us with some
superb wines, all French and all with some nice age.
Of course, the highlight of the evening was the
announcement of the winner. Echanson Provincial
Okubo, himself a three-time regional Young
Sommeliers Competition winner, told us how closely
matched the two competitors were coming into the
competition, since they had earned identical scores
on the written exam. However, only one could win,
and that was Professionnel du Vin Ramelb, who also
won last year. We know that he and Mr. Allen both
have bright futures ahead of them.
PHO
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G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 6S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
(Above) SE Chargée de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger and Le Cordon Bleu College Chef/Instructor Kate Restifo.
(Right) Clockwise from top left: Blueberry Stilton, Shropshire Cheddar Blue, Point Reyes Blue and Cambozola Blue Brie.
By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial
In summer, nothing could be finer than indulging in some of the
finest blue cheese. Getting to know these precisely aged works of art is
very rewarding. Pairing them with a good wine is even better.
The same DOC laws used for wines apply to blue cheese produc-
tion. Every area that produces blue cheese uses a different mold. To
begin the process, mold is added to milk, and when it has coagulated, it
is cut into cubes. After being drained, it is packed into frames until set.
Most of the time, long skewers are used to penetrate the cheese at inter-
vals, which allows oxygen to cultivate the mold. However, if the cheese
is loosely packed, it is not skewered.
Blue cheese may appear yellow or light green, which are indica-
tions that the mold has not fully oxidized. Crumble the cheese and
let it sit at room temperature for a while; as the mold is oxygenated, it
will turn blue. When a blue cheese turns bad, it becomes pink, gray, or
brown, and will have an off, strong, odor.
It is best stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in foil, plastic wrap,
or wax paper so that it can breathe. Usually served from a whole round
with a long-handled cheese scoop to remove the best cheese from the
center, blue cheese is often used in cooking as it melds nicely with
other flavors.
While there are many great blues to choose from, the following are
a few top-notch blue cheese/wine duos:
POINT REYES BLUE Crafted in Point Reyes, California, from raw cow’s milk, this blue
cheese uses vegetarian rennet. Its tangy sweetness is perfect for salads,
dressings, dips, steak, honey, figs, stone fruit, and berries. About $18/lb.
Domaine la Tour Vieille Banyuls Reserva N.V.
Grapes: Grenache, Grenache Gris, and Carignan
Flavors: Fortified and rich; prunes, coffee, dark cooked fruits
CAMBOZOLA A “blue Brie” from the Allgäu region of Germany, Cambozola is a triple-
cream cheese made from pasteurized cow’s milk. The mold is the same
that is used for Roquefort cheeses from France. Another characteristic
is the slightly crunchy rind bloom. Cambozola is smooth, creamy, salty,
and rich. Pair it with fruit and honey. About $24/lb.
Maison Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne 2011
Grape: Pinot Noir
Flavors: Ripe red fruits and zesty acidity with a light body
What to Do with the Summertime Blues?
Continued on page 8
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 7S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial
At the young age of ninety-five, Stanley Demos is as
dynamic as ever. He is among a rare group of confrères with
fifty or more years of Chaîne membership. The former long-
time Sarasota bailli has many accolades to commemorate
his time in the organization. He was honored with the 1995
President’s medal. In 2000, he became a grand officier com-
mandeur. He also holds a Bronze Star of Excellence and was
the first-ever recipient of the Médaille Présidentielle.
Throughout his career, he has worked at several
upscale venues, including La Maisonette in Cincinnati. For
more than twenty years, he owned the elegant Coach House
in Lexington, Kentucky. After selling the restaurant, he and
his second wife, Patricia, moved to Sarasota.
For his Chaîne induction in 1962, he had to travel
from Cincinnati to New York. The St. Regis Hotel was
abuzz with excitement; Mr. Demos was inducted by Grand
Chancelier Jean Valby.
To this day, his favorite meal is Florida stone crabs,
beef filet with béarnaise sauce or lamb chops, salad,
and wedges of cheese followed by cherries jubilee or
crêpe suzette.
Today, his life is simple. He cooks dinner every night,
except on Saturdays, when he and Patricia go out on the
town. His favorite drink is non-alcoholic German beer.
Mr. Demos is proud to have been a member since
soon after the U.S. Chaîne was founded. He not only loves
good meals but the wonderful people he has met in the
organization.
1 Induction at St. Regis Hotel, New York, 1962: Maître Rôtisseur Stanley Demos, Bailli Délégué National Edward Benenson, Grand Maître George Portmann and Grand Chancelier Jean Valby.
2 Stanley Demos and Patricia Demos.
3 Recipient of the Médaille Présidentielle, 2005.
MEMBER UPDATES
Catching Up with a Chaîne Superstar: Sarasota Bailli Honoraire Stanley Demos
SHROPSHIRE
Shropshire cheese, which is produced using the Stilton method, is a
blue cheddar from Nottinghamshire, in England’s Leicestershire region.
It uses pasteurized cow’s milk, vegetarian rennet, annatto for color,
and the same mold that is used in Roquefort cheese. It needs to age for
at least twelve weeks and is characterized by a salty, musty taste, with
mold crystals on the rind. About $20/lb.
Château Barbe Blanche 2010
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Flavors: Red and black currant, velvety tannins, hints of vanilla
BLUEBERRY STILTON Fruit-bearing Stilton cheese, such as Blueberry Stilton, is also known as
“white Stilton,” or immature blue cheese. It uses full-cream cow’s milk,
is not inoculated with mold, and is only about four weeks old, making
it dense and crumbly. White Stiltons can only be produced in England’s
Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, or Leicestershire regions. It is considered
a dessert cheese, although it is quite tasty on salad with blueberry dress-
ing. Use it for cheesecake or pair with cookies, fresh blueberries, or field
greens. About $20/lb.
Osborne Pedro Ximénez Sherry
Grape: Pedro Ximénez
Flavors: Sherry with raisins, toffee, and chocolate; long, lingering finish
Continued from page 7
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G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 8S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
By Jake Cappuccino, Buffalo Ecuyer
JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI
Chef Jiro Ono literally dreams about creating sushi, his passion reaching a point that few ever attain. Jiro Dreams of Sushi documents his life and the lives of his sons at his three-star Michelin restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro. His is a lifelong love affair with sushi.
This documentary put David Gelb on the map with good reason. Not only does Gelb show Jiro’s story, but he also documents the elaborate work that goes into producing the best sushi in the world. We meet tuna dealers, rice sellers, and the restaurant’s apprentices, all of whom strive for Jiro’s approval in his pursuit of perfection.
For Jiro, simplicity and minimalism are perfection. Of the hundreds of shots of sushi seen throughout the movie, few feature more than one type of seafood, rice, and a glaze of soy sauce. And yet, insists Japanese food writer Yamamoto, who is featured heavily in the documentary, the sushi is consistently the best that he has ever eaten.
This film is not only for foodies (though the story of the sushi is reason enough for foodies); it’s for anybody curious about a man’s journey toward unattainable perfection and the incredible results that emerge from that journey. Find Jiro Dreams of Sushi on Netflix.
CHEF’S TABLE
Netflix’s documentary series is more than food television. Chef’s Table not only showcases innovative, elegant food but also shares the humanity, humor, and challenges that are part of the journey for some of the world’s most renowned culinarians. Whether it’s postmodern cuisine or farm-to-table cooking, director David Gelb uses the same style as in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, managing to capture the sheer beauty, creativity, thoughtfulness, and extravagance of the food on film. Each episode highlights some of the chef’s most famous dishes.
As one writer said in an interview about one of the featured chefs, the restaurants and chefs are not just about the food. Neither is Chef’s Table. The series is about the art and the story behind the food, and the experience, memory, and change that exceptional food and a gifted chef can create. Catch Chef’s Table at your leisure on Netflix for compelling stories and beautiful food.
CULINARY COLLOQUY
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 9S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
TRAVEL THE WORLD OF THE CHAÎNE!
For information, visit www.chaineus.org. This Chaîne cruise aboard the SeaDream (which Forbes rated the “Best Small Luxury Cruise Ship of 2015”) will include, exclusively for Chaîne members, fabulous pre- and post-cruise activities in Athens and Rome, as well as a delectable
special dining experience on the isle of Capri or the Amalfi Coast.
The amazing July 2-9, 2016 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs
Athens to Rome SeaDream Luxury Mediterranean Yacht Cruise
is filling up, with only a limited number of cabins remaining.
Albany Hits the High SeasBy William Harris, Bailli
What could enhance the inherently delightful experience of a
cruise? Sharing it with fellow fun-loving Chaîne members, which is pre-
cisely what fourteen Albany Bailliage members did from October 5-12.
A private bus supplied with snacks and libations took us to the
Boston pier, where we boarded the Royal Caribbean’s Brilliance of
the Seas. Our ports of call included Halifax, Nova Scotia; Saint John,
New Brunswick; and Bar Harbor and Portland, Maine. During the
day, attendees engaged in individual activities, reconvening for dinner
proudly wearing their Chaîne decorations. These were a source of inter-
est to fellow passengers, and we cheerfully fielded questions about the
Chaîne. We believe that several will be contacting local bailliages with
requests to be put on their guest lists.
Our group dined in three of the ship’s specialty restaurants: Izumi,
Chops Grille, and the elegant Chef’s Table. On other evenings, after a
meal in the main dining room, we adjourned to one of the many bars
to enjoy live entertainment. Our lively group sang along with the piano
player and stayed until closing.
On the bus trip back to Albany, we unanimously agreed to plan
another cruise, this time heading south. Destination: the Caribbean!
BUFFALO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Gran Selezione Wine EventBy Jacqueline Cappuccino, Vice Chargée de Presse
The 31 Club was the perfect
venue for the Buffalo Mondiale’s Gran
Selezione wine event on October
15. The first flight was poured soon
after attendees arrived. Tenuta di
Nozzole Chianti Classico la Forra
Gran Selezione 2011, with its fruit and
floral notes, paired well with an array
of cheeses. Fattoria Viticcio Beatrice
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011
possessed fruit and mineral notes, while
the fuller Luiano Ottantuno Chianti
Classico Gran Selezione offered oaky
and vanilla flavors.
The next flight was San Felice
Chianti Classico Riserva Il Grigio Gran
Selezione 2010 and Felsina Chianti
Classico Rancia Riserva 2010. The San
Felice is comprised of 80% Sangiovese,
with the remaining 20% reflecting
a combination of some of the two
hundred-plus forgotten varietals in the
estate’s vitiarium. These forgotten vari-
etals add intrigue to this complex, albeit
well-balanced, wine.
The last flight was Castello di Ama
Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran
Selezione 2010 and Castello di Ama
Haiku 2010. The Haiku, comprised of
50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and 25%
Cabernet Franc, seemed to be the favor-
ite of this flight. Both wines had intense
red fruit flavors that hit our noses and
taste buds immediately.
The wonderful 31 Club team
created a culinary frame for the art—
wines—of the evening. The wines
inspired great conversation among
attendees, including talk of a pos-
sible Mondiale trip to Italy to explore
this region.
(Above) Chargée de Presse Provincial/Bailli Helen Cappuccino and Chambellan Provincial Mont Stern.
(Below) Chevalier Wyatt Arthurs and Vice Echanson Eric Genau.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 1S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
CINCINNATI
Penguins and Dinner and Art, Oh My! By Graig Smith, Vice Chargé de Presse
On the beautiful evening of September 14,
Cincinnati Bailliage members gathered at the 21c
Museum Hotel for their fall dinner. The first 21c
Museum Hotel opened in Louisville in 2006. There
are now four 21c Museum Hotel locations, includ-
ing Cincinnati; the unique concept combines a contemporary art museum, boutique hotel, and fabulous restaurant in
one space. The penguin mascot, a different color for each city, adds a fun dimension. Our event was the culmination
of many months of planning by newly appointed Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Barbara Lancor, Vice Echanson Mike
Monnin, and Chef Michael Paley of the hotel’s Metropole restaurant.
The reception—and our introduction to the 21c concept —was held in a gallery filled with stunning contemporary
artwork. This first event that Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Lancor organized was a huge success, and we are excited
to see what else she has in store for us.
The 21c Museum Hotel is just one example of the vibrant makeover occurring in downtown Cincinnati. Our
bailliage is fortunate to be caught up in this revolution of food, wine, and the arts. We have many exciting new ven-
ues to experience, and they are right in our own backyard! We are finding there really is “no place like home” here
in Cincinnati.
CONNECTICUT
Dîner des Joyeuses Fêtes By Allison Reams, Bailli
At the Connecticut Bailliage’s holiday celebration on December 7,
the twenty-nine attendees included several confrères from the Hartford
Bailliage led by Bailli Gary Dunn. When the plans were being made for
this delightful event, we couldn’t think of a more fitting venue for a
Chaîne holiday dinner than a French restaurant.
Yet, we didn’t want to go to just any French restaurant. We chose
the one recently voted the best French restaurant in Connecticut by
Connecticut magazine. Even more impressive, it was also voted the best
overall restaurant in Connecticut by readers of the magazine.
The restaurant, of course, is Bernard’s, located in historic
Ridgefield and housed in a circa-1875 inn that was lovingly trans-
formed into an award-winning dining destination. Owner/Chef Bernard
Bouissou runs the restaurant with his wife/business partner, Sarah Bouissou.
The couple has worked wonderfully with our chapter on many previous occa-
sions, but for this celebration, they really pulled out all the stops. Happy
holidays, indeed!
Vice Chancelier-Argentier Susan Verschoor, Carol Monnin, Kathryn Bender, Maître Hôtelier Russell Menkes and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Barbara Lancor.
Professionnel du Vin Sharon Rychlik and Bailli Allison Reams.
PHO
TO B
Y VI
CKI A
LTM
EYER
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 2S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
DES MOINES
Culinary Explosion By Sandy Cutter, Vice Chargée de Presse
In recent years, as the Des Moines dining scene has
exploded, the Des Moines Bailliage has been making
a concerted effort to support local establishments and
spread the word about the city’s finest culinary hot spots.
Brothers Steve and Joe Logsdon hosted a wonderful
event for the Des Moines Chapter on November 9. While
Joe Logsdon, owner/chef of La Mie restaurant, prepared
the menu, his brother lent the upscale, minimalist space
of his East Village restaurant, Lucca. Chef Joe brought
along Chef de Cuisine Mike Kalhorn to help prepare the
feast, which began with gougères with wild mushroom
mousse and foie gras terrine. They continued to tantalize
with lobster salad and Parisian gnocchi before present-
ing espelette-spiced chicken. (Espelette is a chili pepper
grown in the Basque region of France and is considered
mildly hot.) Finally, we were treated to raspberry-orange
vol-au-vent with hazelnuts and chocolate ganache. Each
course was served with a remarkable wine, making for
delightful pairings.
DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Kistler Wine DinnerBy Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Chargée de Presse
The name Kistler is synonymous with world-class Chardonnay. In fact, Robert Parker
is quoted as saying, “If the Kistler Winery could be magically transported to the middle of
Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, it would quickly gain a reputation as glorious as any producer of
Burgundy grand crus.”
On October 19, the Delaware Valley Mondiale gathered at Co-Owner/Chef Jason
Cichonski’s restaurant Ela in Philadelphia to sample Kistler wines with Master of Wine
Geoff Labitzke. Mr. Labitzke is director of sales and marketing for Kistler and has served as
a judge for the National Young Sommeliers Competition.
The first dinner course featured a rare Kistler Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2010,
which sparkled with cobia crudo. Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 paired per-
fectly with black-pepper fusilli with coddled egg.
For the reds, we savored Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2013 with crispy
pork belly and scallop spätzle, finishing with Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 paired with
pulled short rib, pecan pudding, and red cabbage.
Kistler wines are indeed glorious, and it was very special to share them and the spirit
of Chaîne camaraderie with fellow members.
Chevalier William Goldman and Ellie Goldman.
FORT LAUDERDALE
Feasting at 15th Street Fisheries By Jana Soeldner Danger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire
On January 20, Fort Lauderdale Bailliage members headed to the Fort
Lauderdale Marina for dinner at a local landmark known for its fresh seafood
and homemade breads. The setting of the two-story 15th Street Fisheries restau-
rant, with its beautiful Intercoastal Waterway views, is as much a draw as the
great food.
In South Florida, restaurants come and go like mayflies, but 15th Street
Fisheries has been attracting locals and tourists since 1978. We headed upstairs,
where a warren of small dining rooms creates a cozy ambiance. During the
reception, Owner Ted Drum mingled with our group and later sat down to dine
with us.
Executive Chef Lenny Judice, who is experienced in classic French, Asian
fusion, New World, and other cuisines, created an outstanding menu. His love
for food began in childhood, when he helped out in the kitchen of his mother’s
restaurant in Santurce, Puerto Rico.
The five-course feast, featuring flavorful meats as well as the seafood for
which Fisheries is famous, showcased Chef Judice’s skill and creativity. At eve-
ning’s end, the kitchen brigade came out to take a bow, and Bailli Jack Kane
presented Chef Judice with a plaque to commemorate the occasion.
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LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
The Grapes of New Jersey By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice Chargée de Presse
La Grande Cave du New Jersey Chapter members are interested in both growing their
wine cellar and learning about all aspects of wine. Robert Wilson, one of the owners of
Unionville Vineyards located in Hunterdon County’s beautiful farm country, invited confrères
to a tasting at the winery on September 28.
Despite being the most densely populated state in the country, New Jersey is commit-
ted to preserving its farmlands. Unionville Vineyards is part of its Farmland Preservation
Program, which enables continued investment in maintaining viable agricultural enterprises
in the Garden State. Attendees were enthralled by Mr. Wilson’s account of the winery’s his-
tory and awed by the character and quality of the wines sampled.
Dinner took place down the road in Flemington, at acclaimed Owner/Chef Matthew
McPherson’s Matt’s Red Rooster Grill. With the delicious meal, we continued to sip
Unionville wines. In a standout pairing, Unionville Pheasant Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2012
accompanied the scallops. Although this wine had received raves when tasted earlier in the
evening, it earned additional accolades when enjoyed with the seafood.
Although the evening was packed with information, the take-home message seemed to
be the impressive potential of New Jersey grapes. In addition to magnificent farm-to-plate
food, the Garden State is capable of producing the highest-caliber farm-to-glass wines as well.
HARTFORD
Welcoming Autumn at the Canoe Club By Jennifer Dunn, Vice Chancelier-Argentier
Located on the banks of the Connecticut River, the exclusive
Hartford Canoe Club, with its handsome hunting-lodge décor, ushered
in autumn for the Hartford Bailliage on November 15 with floor-to-
ceiling stone fireplaces laid with roaring fires, log beams, an enclosed
terrace for the reception, and plenty of antlers on the walls. The mag-
nificently decorated dining table spanned the room, providing a vista of
colorful fall foliage, pomegranates, candles, glassware, and a hunting-
themed service. On one side of the room, the Chaîne flag hung above
the blazing fire; on the other, a jazz duo played tuneful strains.
The Canoe Club began as a private men’s dining club in 1879
and has remained faithful to this tradition ever since, thus affording
members the unique opportunity to taste Chef Ana Robaina’s inven-
tive cuisine for the first time, thanks to club member Vice Chargé de
Missions Frank Szilagyi, who hosted the event. Attendees stayed late
into the evening to enjoy drinks and cigars by the fire, departing with
gifts of chocolate turkeys and a sense of convivial joy.Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Dunn and Bailli Gary Dunn.
A West African chimp study’s leading researcher, Kimberley Hockings, reported that a female consorted more often with a male who gave her stolen papayas. Dames, beware of chevaliers bearing gifts.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 4S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
LONG ISLAND
A New FavoriteBy Jerome Siller, Bailli
The newly named Ristorante Da Claudio occupies the space that previously housed
La Pace restaurant, host to numerous past Chaîne events. Owner Claudio Zustovich and
his son, Fabrizio Zustovich, along with Chef Guiseppe Capobianco, ensure that the venue
maintains the laudable traditions of its predecessor by using the finest products to create
excellent cuisine.
The Long Island Bailliage dined there on November 2. At the reception, attendees
enjoyed five delicious hors d’oeuvres, paired with Roederer Estate champagne. Dinner offered
many culinary highlights, including mushroom soup, branzino filet with truffled risotto, and
the superb entrée of veal rack with brandied mushrooms, cream sauce, mashed potatoes, and
cheese-glazed asparagus. Dessert was puff pastry with strawberries and cream coupled with a
fabulous chocolate mousse cake.
Port was served as a final treat. The evening’s wines included a Hess Cabernet
Sauvignon, a Simi Sauvignon Blanc, and a Ruffino Pinot Grigio Lumina.
LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
Year of the Sheep Celebration By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice Chargée de Presse
The Chinese New Year, or Spring Festival, is an important celebra-
tion in China. On February 22, the La Grande Cave du New Jersey
Bailliage rang in the Year of the Sheep with a Chinese New Year celebra-
tion at Cathay 22, located in Springfield, New Jersey. The dining room
was decorated in red—the Chinese symbol for good luck.
At the reception, attendees were served Domaine Chadon Étoile
Brut N.V. to enjoy with honey spare ribs, seafood shumai, and fried
Chinese eggplant stuffed with pork.
After the first seated course of savory wonton soup, dinner was
served family style, with cold preparations followed by hot dishes.
Matched with an exquisite Domaine Lafarge Auxey-Duresses les Hauts-
Côtes 2010, the cold dishes included beef tenderloin, sesame jelly fish,
Buddha’s delight, ban-ban chicken, and spinach seaweed.
For the hot dishes, we savored mu-shu pork, shrimp with Grand
Marnier sauce, garlic-sautéed cabbage, fish with ginger-scallion sauce,
and ya-call fried rice. Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Rouge
les Grands Chaillots 2011, with concentrated raspberry fruit, accompa-
nied the array of flavorful dishes.
We ended the celebration with wishes for a prosperous new year,
golden sesame bananas, a sampling of different Sauternes from our
chapter’s cellar, and hearty applause for Owner/Chef Philip Wang.
LONG ISLAND
Another Gem at Pearl East By Jerome Siller, Bailli
Despite having postponed the original event for two weeks
due to snow, the Long Island Bailliage managed to fill the beauti-
fully decorated private room of Pearl East, in Manhasset, New
York, on March 15. The dynamic force behind this eagerly antici-
pated annual event is Owner Cathy Huang, who ensures execution
of the highest levels of food and service possible.
The champagne reception featuring nine delicious appetiz-
ers was followed by an eight-course dinner enhanced by amazing
food sculptures. Of special note was the service and culinary staffs’
effectiveness in maintaining the flow of dishes and fostering a party
atmosphere. Of course, none of this would have been possible
without the indefatigable leadership of Owner Huang.
It is gratifying that our chapter often hosts confrères from
other bailliages. From Bergen County we welcomed Bailli Oleh
Bachynsky, Bailli Honoraire Sarah Bachynsky, Vice Conseiller
Gastronomique Gail Taenzler, and Paul Taenzler. Chevalier Sal
Fazzi and Marysue Robbins made the trip from Albany, while
Officier Richard Maidman and Vice Chargé de Missions Grant Ripp
visited from the New York Chapter. High praise was offered from
these guests, who professed that it was one of the best Chaîne din-
ners they had ever attended.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 5S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
NEW YORK
The Reason They Built the Brooklyn Bridge By Omar Khan, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique
According to one Zagat reviewer,
Owner/Chef Mark Lahm’s Brooklyn eatery
Henry’s End—still flourishing forty-plus
years after its inception—“is the reason
they built the Brooklyn Bridge.” On
November 5, the New York Bailliage made
the crossing for a game feast paired with an
array of lively wines.
The restaurant’s charming, rustic
interior was aglow with warmth and cama-
raderie. Diners especially enjoyed spiced
kangaroo loin with sweet potato. Gustatory
excitement mounted with the presentation
of elk chop in Madeira sauce—succulent,
tender, with rich texture and great appeal.
The meal concluded with twenty-
one-layer crêpe, served with a Rare Wine
Company New York Malmsey from the
historic Thomas Jefferson Series. The suc-
cession of flavors reinforced and enhanced
each other: gossamer-light crêpes with
vibrant raspberry and rich custard married
with a wine exhibiting grace, balance, an
undercurrent of sweetness, and an exqui-
site, lingering finish.
It was a “game night” indeed, com-
plete with exceptional cuisine, wonderful
hospitality from Chef Lahm and his team,
and that signature Chaîne spirit that takes
everything to a new level.
NEW YORK
Culinary Adventure at the Gander By Emily Klein, Vice Chargée de Presse
On the rainy night of October 15, the New York Bailliage faced the
elements in anticipation of a culinary reward. And rewarded we were as
Owner/Chef Jesse Schenker left it all on the field, as they say, at his latest
venture, the Gander.
Attendees were escorted to a private dining room, where their sig-
nature pink bubbly awaited them, complemented by three delicious hors
d’oeuvres. The meal highlights included crisp, spicy chorizo and the fish,
which was meaty and simply seasoned to work in harmony with a deli-
cate, paper-thin slice of terrine and earthy mushroom purée.
For dessert, we enjoyed La Tur cheesecake with apple crisp, sesame
seeds, and Tellicherry pepper. The cheesecake was creamy and tangy
with a hint of pepper, sitting atop the “crisp,” while the apple was found
alongside compote emboldened by dark caramel painted underneath. This
sweet treat was the perfect end to a magnificent meal.
Before departing, we thanked Chef Schenker and Wine Director Rick
Pitcher for treating us to an extraordinary dining experience.
Bailli Jim Wallick.
Albany Officier Commandeur/Maître Rôtisseur Louis Bruno, Jr.
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Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, Dame Pam Wise, Dame Patricia Parker Weber and Dame Fran Chudnow.
WEST PALM BEACH
Tribute Dinner at Frenchman’s Creek By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse
On April 20,West Palm Beach
Bailliage members gathered for
a black-tie affair at the ever-chic
Frenchman’s Creek, a residential
country club located in Jupiter,
Florida, and home to Maître de Table
Restaurateur Achal Goswami.
At the reception, we toasted the
memory of Grand Officier Maître
Henry Warren, who passed away
earlier this year. A co-founder of the
West Palm Beach Chapter, Grand
Officier Maître Warren was the only
person in the history of the Chaîne
to receive a haut commandeur pin,
which was presented to him at the
Grand Chapitre in New Orleans
in 2014.
Executive Chef Bernd
Linsenmayer’s creative flavor profiles
and stunning presentations made
for an unparalleled dining experi-
ence. The scrumptious courses were
perfectly paired with wines through
collaboration by Beverage Manager
Stephen Fisher, Bailli Honoraire
Douglas Martin, Vice Chancelier-
Argentier Jeffrey Blitz, and Bailli
Leila Warren. The waitstaff per-
formed beautifully, delivering their
finest five-star service.
It was the perfect way to wrap
up the 2014-2015 season and left us
eager to start the 2015-2016 season!
SAN ANTONIO
Cooking with the Dames at Central Market By Amy White, Dame de la Chaîne
The Central Market Cooking School was the setting
for the San Antonio Bailliage’s “La Chaîne des Fleurs”
event on the lovely fall day of November 1.Three of
the school’s talented chefs guided the sixteen attendees
through a “Gulf Coast Seafood 101” course in which four delicious recipes were prepared and later enjoyed.
To start, attendees were divided into four groups and assigned food preparation stations. A chef guided them
through the first recipe of jalapeño-corn crab cakes. The second preparation, wilted spinach with warm bacon vin-
aigrette, was the perfect complement to the crab cakes. Blue cheese and walnuts finished the salad beautifully.
The third preparation, chicken-fried oysters, was a real treat. The oysters, which had come from Washington
State, were also added to the salad. Wonderful! The final recipe was pecan-crusted fish filets.
An extension of the San Antonio Chapter, La Chaîne des Fleurs has been enjoying activities such as fashion
shows, cooking classes, and visits to art galleries and wineries quarterly for the past four years. Its members are
from diverse backgrounds but all are bright, inquisitive women who share a love of food and wine!
New York and Chicago will be the first to take advantage of UberEATS, a food delivery service by the transportation giant Uber, who tested the markets in Barcelona and Los Angeles. It is ready to roll.
G A S T R O N O M E E X T R A ! 1 7S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
WEST PALM BEACH
New Year, New Members By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse
On February 19, West Palm Beach Bailliage members cele-
brated the Chinese New Year, heralding the Year of the Sheep, with
an induction dinner at Echo Palm Beach. Bailli Provincial Charles
Radlauer and Bailli Leila Warren inducted Dame de la Chaîne Jean
Dolan and Chevalier Steven Rayburn before elevating Vice Chargée
de Presse Susan Esson.
Asian culinary delights were showcased through a resplendent
menu executed under the guidance of Food and Beverage Director/
Officier Maître de Table Hôtelier Nick Velardo. Among the many
delicacies were shark fin-crab soup, Peking duck lotus buns, chow
fun noodles with Kurobuta pork, banana leaf-wrapped sea bass,
and chocolate-dipped fortune cookies.
Attendees departed not only with their yin and yang intact but
also with little red envelopes filled with lucky money! What a great
way to start off the new year!
WEST PALM BEACH
Evening to Remember By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse
Upon learning that Bailli Honoraire Douglas Martin had
contributed Siberian osetra caviar, Platinum Russian Vodka, and Piper-
Heidseick Rare Millésime Brut 2002 to the West Palm Beach Bailliage’s
dinner at Trevini Ristorante on March 23, attendees knew they were in
for a memorable evening.
The reception was held in the Palm Beach venue’s intimate court-
yard. We mixed and mingled while savoring delectable appetizers of
jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail, mojito-cured salmon tartare, and goat
cheese-filled bresaola della Valtellina.
A private dining room was the setting for the six-course dinner,
which was a flavorful tour of Italy paired with well-chosen wines. The
lovely meal concluded with Château d’Yquem 1994 served from mag-
nums. Capping an evening of many treats, Bailli Honoraire Martin had
graciously donated this sumptuous Sauternes from his private cellar.
This evening, as is every evening under the leadership of Bailli
Leila Warren, was truly one to remember.
Competition WinnersYOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS FAR WEST Mateo Cancio La Posada Lodge and Casitas, Tucson, AZ
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Melanie Tancino Sheraton Waikiki, Honolulu, HI
MID-ATLANTIC Geno Betz Paradiso, Philadelphia, PA
MIDWEST Matthew Phillips Blue Hills Country Club, Kansas City, MO
NORTHEAST Spyridon Giannakoulopolous Three Village Inn, Stony Brook, NY
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Oleg Vetkov Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTH CENTRAL Matthew Pate Biltmore Forest Country Club, Asheville, NC
SOUTHEAST Devin Davis Tampa, FL
SOUTHWEST Jerónimo Espiritu JW Marriott, San Antonio, TX
YOUNG SOMMELIERS FAR WEST Micah Clark Steak & Whisky, Hermosa Beach, CA
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Christopher Ramelb Southern Wine & Spirits, Honolulu, HI
MID-ATLANTIC John Filkins Potomac Selections, Inc., Hyattsville, MD
MIDWEST Andrey Ivanov Reeds American Table, St. Louis, MO
NORTHEAST Mia Van de Water North End Grill, New York, NY
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Jackson Rohrbaugh Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTH CENTRAL Femi Oyediran Charleston Place Hotel, Charleston, SC
SOUTHEAST Jill Davis Four Seasons at Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL
SOUTHWEST Kelly Wooldridge Mizuna Restaurant/Bonanno, Denver, CO
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