Glasgow Green

Heritage Trail

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GLASGOW GREEN HERITAGE TRAIL

On behalf of Glasgow City Council, welcome to Glasgow Green. Please enjoy your visit. The park is located just east of the City Centre, bounded by the River Clyde and Gorbals to the south and Calton and Bridgeton to the north and east. The park can be easily accessed from a number of neighbouring streets; Saltmarket, Greendyke Street, The Green, Kings Drive and Greenhead Street. Access from south of the River Clyde can be taken from Adelphi Street via St Andrews Suspension Bridge. The Park is only twenty minutes walk from George Square.

The heritage trail is full of points of interest and offers a welcome retreat from the busy surrounding streets. Toilet facilities are located at the People’s Palace & Winter Gardens.

GLASGOW GREEN HERITAGE TRAIL ROUTE

Beginning at the People’s Palace & Winter Garden, following the suggested route it should take visitors approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes allowing for a brief stop at each item, through the Green and back again.

There is one main numbered trail and one additional smaller trail highlighting some additional points of interest off the main circular route centred on Glasgow Green. The routes cross over around Glasgow Green and it is possible to switch from one to the other. There are opportunities to stop for something to eat and drink and for toilet breaks. These facilities have been highlighted on the map provided.

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MAIN POINTS OF INTEREST

1. People’s Palace and Winter Gardens, Category A listed

The city’s museum of popular history is a three-storey, domed structure with an iron and glass Winter Garden to the rear. The People’s Palace and Winter Gardens were opened in 1898 by the Earl of Rosebery at a ceremony attended by an estimated 3,500 ticket holders. The Museum building cost £32,000 part of which was funded by the Caledonian Railway Company as compensation for building the tunnel under Glasgow Green. Profits of the 1891 East End Exhibition and funding from the sale of a bleaching ground in Bridgeton paid for the construction costs. The balance was contributed by the Corporation.

The building, in the French Renaissance style, is made from red Locharbriggs sandstone and designed by the architect Alexander Beith McDonald, the City Engineer.

It is decorated with allegorical figures representing Shipbuilding (model boat), Mathematical Science (dividers and open book), Sculpture (figurine); Painting (palette and brush); Engineering (crown wheel and pulley) and the textile industry (distaff). On the attic are three further female figures; Science (globe and compass) and the Arts (books) seated left and right of the centre bay and standing at the apex of the entire scheme, at the highest figure is that of a flamboyant, energetic woman representing Progress, shown with a

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bronze torch in her right hand, a laurel branch in her left and a cornucopia at her feet. Above the arch of the main entrance there is a pair of winged youths holding torches, seated on a decorative cartouche bearing the Crest of Glasgow. The works are accredited to the Glasgow sculptor Kellock Brown, (1856 - 1934), who had also sculpted the Thomas Carlyle monument in Kelvingrove Park and the sculptural panels on Bridgeton Library.

The building was 30 years in the making and influenced by Bailie Bilsland an ardent campaigner for free libraries, free ferries, free art galleries, free museums, recreation grounds and the extension of public parks. His chairmanship of the development committee ensured the combination of a museum, picture gallery, winter garden and concert hall under one roof. No other institution at that time had provided a facility combining all these features.

The People’s Palace is now accepted as the social museum of Glasgow featuring an extraordinarily diverse collection of objects commemorating many of the events in Glasgow’s long and colourful history alongside displays and popular artefacts depicting Glasgow’s social history, industry and culture. In the foyer of the museum there is a fine statue of Matt McGinn, the beloved singer and poet from the Calton.

Ken Currie was commissioned in 1987 to mark the 200th anniversary of the Calton Weavers Massacre, where members of the 39th Regiment, who had been dispatched to suppress a demonstration about poor pay, shot and killed six of the protesting workers.

Currie’s subsequent work comprised eight large-scale murals, focusing on scenes from Scottish labour history. They are displayed on the ceiling of the People’s Palace and Winter Gardens.

The first highlights the Calton Weavers massacre, and the second depicts our basic rights. The third panel focuses on the 1832 Reform Act, the fourth on 19th-century Socialism, the fifth takes us into the 20th century with the Red Clyde movement, and the sixth deals with the 1932 Hunger Marchers and the International Brigade of the Spanish Civil War. Panel seven portrays

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the occupation of the Upper Clyde Shipbuilders’ yards in the 1970s. Finally, the eighth captures the miners’ strike and looks to the future.

In 1998, the Winter Gardens were damaged by fire. Superbly restored, they serve as a magnificent adjunct to the People’s Palace. The shape of the conservatory is said to be based on the upturned hull of Lord Nelson’s flagship, Victory. A legend lent some credence by the close proximity of the first monument in the United Kingdom erected to him, Nelson’s Column.

2. The Doulton Fountain, Category ‘A’ listed

The Doulton Fountain was manufactured in 1888 and is the largest three-storey structure terracotta fountain in the world. Designed by Arthur Edward Pearce and modelled by William Silver Frith in the fashionable

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lavish French Ecole des Beaux Arts style, the fountain features four groups of figures representing India, Canada, South Africa and Australia. The Victorian period saw tremendous interest in the use of terracotta in the fabric of prominent civic buildings such as the Victoria and Albert Museum, The Royal Albert Hall and the Natural History Museum in London. By the late 1870’s Doulton was a leading manufacturer supplying terracotta for major buildings. The Doulton Fountain is 13m high, and has an outer basin diameter of 21m and 13 individual figures and groups of figures which are just under life size. The fountain is a monumental piece of sculptural work produced to commemorate Queen Victoria and the British Empire.

The fountain was first displayed at the Glasgow International Exhibition of Industry and Science (The Great Exhibition) of 1888. The exhibition took place in Kelvingrove Park from the 3rd May until the 10th November that year. The fountain was then relocated to Glasgow Green. Its inauguration took place on 27th August 1890, which was designated as a special ‘fountain day’ in Glasgow. The Doulton Fountain was intended as a personal gift to the City of Glasgow by Sir Henry Doulton, not as part of the company’s commercial display, although it did become a principal attraction.

From the 1970’s on it began to show signs of deterioration due to weathering and vandalism.

The Doulton Fountain received listed status Category ‘A’ on 15 December 1970. In the mid 1990’s it began to receive attention as part of a regeneration scheme for Glasgow Green. Following a £3.75 million refurbishment and relocation project the fountain has been restored to its former glory. The switch on ceremony of the refurbished fountain took place in May 2005. Dunville

Repair to the Doulton Fountain

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Park off the Falls Road, West Belfast also contains a smaller but very similar beautiful buff Victorian terracotta fountain additionally designed by A E Pearce and built by Doulton of Lambeth

Features of the Doulton Fountain:

Her Majesty Queen Victoria

At the top of the overall conical shape of the Doulton Fountain stands a portrait of Queen Victoria, dressed as the Empress of India. The lace of the dress is superbly and intricately detailed. She is constructed from five pieces; her body is joined at the shoulders and her hands and sceptre are made separately. Her Majesty stands on a three-stage octagonal base, surveying her empire, bearing the orb and sceptre and wearing imperial crown. The original figure of Victoria was modelled by W. S. Frith. The current figure, a replacement installed after the lightning strike of 1894 destroyed the original, was modelled by John Broad.

Dunville Park Belfast circa 1900

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The Four Water Bearers

The next level of the fountain comprises a central octagonal shaft, divided into four by ornate buttresses. Between these are four kneeling maidens in diaphanous dresses, each with an inverted vase resting on her raised right knee. These sculptures have several variations in the positions of the hands and the treatment of their hair and draperies. The name of the modeller of the four Water Bearers is not known and the sculptures are not signed. Their style suggests they are based on the same female and that two modellers produced the figures.

Left to right: top: Queen Victoria, the four service men.Bottom: the four water bearers, Glasgow’s Coat of Arms

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The Four Servicemen

The four servicemen figures stand as sentries within recessed arches to the central shaft and include:

o A sailor, representing the Royal Navy

o Three soldiers representing

I. The Grenadier Guards

II. The Black Watch Highlanders

III. The Royal Irish Fusiliers

The modeller of the four servicemen was F.W. Pomeroy. The four figures have superb attention to detail ranging from bayonets and guns through to raised lettering on uniform buttons.

Left to right: top: Canada, South Africa. Bottom: Australia, India

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The Four Colonial Groups and City Crest

Four groups of Colonial figures are located within arched openings beneath the cantilevered basin. They represent the four continents that the British Empire spanned. Each group is composed of a male and female figure in national costume, and is accompanied by the symbols of the history, industry, and agriculture, of those countries. In most cases the male figure is standing, while the female is seated, Australia being the exception.

INDIA: Modelled by: J. Broad

The Indian Empire is portrayed by a male figure, armed; representative of the military history of the vast country, and at his side is a trophy of native arms of various periods. The female figure has reference to the arts and industries, typical examples of the manufacturers being grouped around her; in her hand is a scroll of manuscript, to suggest the wonderful literature of India’s many-centuried past; the other hands rests on a piece of pottery and a silken shawl, as specimens of the manual industries. In the background is some growing rice, a column surmounted by a group of figures calls to mind India’s picturesque architecture.

CANADA: Modelled by: William Silver Frith.

Canada is represented by a figure of a trapper, wearing a leather costume, and bearing in his hand the head of a moose ox and over his arm skins and furs. At his feet is a beaver. At the side is a female figure warmly clothed in blanket costume and seated on the stump of a felled tree. She bears a shaft of wheat and one hand rests on a felling axe. At her feet are blocks of coal and a miner’s pick, and in the background the rock on which sugar-maple is growing.

SOUTH AFRICA: Modelled by: Herbert Ellis.

To represent the South African Colonies there are figures of a farmer of European race, standing armed over his crops, and a seated figure of a native woman, surrounded by the various products of her country; the spade on which one hand rests referring to the mineral resources, the vine and maize to the agriculture, and

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the heap of wool and the ostrich in the background to the animal produce.

AUSTRALIA: Modelled by: Frederick Pomeroy.

Australia is typified by a figure of a gold-prospector resting on his spade and a female bearing a sheaf of wheat; her hand rests on a sheep, and a vine grows beside her, these referring to the wool and wine industries, as the fan-palm in the background does the climate.

THE CREST OF THE CITY OF GLASGOW:

In front of each Colonial Group, the design includes the Crest of the City of Glasgow.

NEW TECHNOLOGY

The innovative restoration and relocation of the Doulton Fountain to the front of the People’s Palace incorporates state-of-the-art technology and a new water supply designed and installed following the original pipe routes. The new system uses a re-circulating pump system with automatic top-up to compensate for any water loss. The fountain also contains a fibre optic lighting system in the Water Bearer urns, the eight lion’s heads to the perimeter of the cantilevered basin and the four bat heads between the Colonial Groups to illuminate the water cascading from these features. Six

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submersible floodlights are installed in the cantilevered basin to highlight the upper body of the fountain. Twelve submersible floodlights in the lower basin highlight the lower body of the fountain and a further forty eight radiate fingers of light through the water towards the centre of the fountain. Four beams floodlight Queen Victoria.

3. Winter Gardens (Sculpture) Park

(A) James Watt Statue

The James Watt Statue originally stood in a niche over the gateway of D & J Anderson Mills, cotton manufacturers. The company presented the statue to Glasgow Corporation in 1936when the works were about to be demolished and new premises erected

on the site. The statue was the work of the sculptor Charles Benham Grassby and is closely related to the similar statue of Watt, by John Greenshields, which stood on top of the Glasgow Technical College in Bath Street and is now in the Royal College Building of Strathclyde University in George Street Glasgow.

The restored statue portrays Watt in cutaway jacket and knee-breeches leaning on a steam condenser and with a pair of dividers in his hand. The condenser is realistically depicted, with bolts securing the end plates and a manifold projecting from one side. Watt came up with the idea of the separate steam condenser, which radically improved the steam engine, while walking on the Green one Sunday in 1765.

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(B) Children at Play (Springtime) Statue

The statue called Springtime was first exhibited in Sculpture In The Open Air in Kelvingrove Park in 1949 and was later presented to the City by Lord Provost Dr. James Welsh and sited in McPhun’s Park. The pedestal named Springtime by Thomas John Clapperton consists of cyclopean masonry supporting a band of ashlar carved with four figurative friezes in low relief. These show groups of children involved in various games, including playing on a seesaw in the company of a goose, a goat, a dog, a bird and some sheep. The bronze Peter Pan figure forms the second part of the pedestal which features the figure of a boy seated on a rock with a pipe in his left hand and a pair of squirrels at his feet.

(C) McPhun Memorial Fountain

When originally erected the fountain was 3m high and consisted of a large granite obelisk sitting on a square basin, pedestal and step with a bronze portrait and inscribed panel. It

commemorates the builder, quarrymaster and, timber merchant Robert McPhun and was formally handed over to the city by his son, at a ceremony in September 1906. The fountain was the work of monumental masons, Scott & Rae.

Sadly the obelisk and panel were detached from the original plinth many years ago but the pedestal remained in McPhun’s Park and was a frequent target for vandals. It is now located in the corner of the sculpture park partly concealed by a grassy mound.

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Located on the opposite side of the Winter Gardens you will find the two stone embedded plaques.

(D) Commemorative Plaques

The culverted Camlachie Burn flows beneath this area and its presence below ground is marked by 2stone embedded plaques. When

weavers were unable to obtain employment, a small number of those in need were sent to improve the Green. During 1816 and the spring of 1817 one hundred and forty six weavers levelled and turfed the former Kings Park (McPhun’s Park) of the Green, forming walks along its boundary. In August 1819 three hundred and twenty four weavers levelled and sloped High Green and Calton Green. Of the 324weavers employed half were born in Glasgow, half in Ireland, two were from England and one from America.

These were massive earth moving exercises. The Camlachie and Molindinar burns were culverted and during the spring of 1820 rubbish was laid on the low Green to raise it out of reach of flooding. The section of culvert passing under Glasgow Green begins at the junction of Arcadia Street/The Green. It runs in a north-west direction under the carriageway passing Templeton’s and angles across the front of the People’s Palace continuing to a point under Greendyke Street

Original McPhun Memorial Fountain

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at Charlotte Street. It then continues down Greendyke Street to a junction chamber at Turnbull Street where it joins the Molindiner culvert. This culvert runs in a south-west direction passing the east side of the McLennan Arch leading to an outfall in the river.

4. The Drying Green

In 1450 Glasgow became a Burgh of Regality and Bishop Turnbull ratified public use of Glasgow Green by gifting Glasgow Green to the people for common grazing land. It was used for washing, drying, bleaching linen, salmon fishing and swimming.

Located east of the Winter Gardens with the exotic façade of Templeton’s Carpet Factory in the background near to the original washhouse ‘steamie’, the drying green from time immemorial is located within the city’s oldest open space. Used for household washing and drying it has been retained and upgraded. The people of Glasgow have the right to use this drying green. It was regularly in use up to 1977.

5. Templeton’s Carpet Factory, Category ‘A’ listed

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Circa 1889 substantial building took place around the periphery of the Green directly attributable to the environmental landscaping improvement works undertaken by James Clelland. The City Fathers did not want to see the Green defiled by low quality structures and in 1889 James Templeton built the magnificent carpet factory. William Leiper was selected as the architect, and modelled his design on that of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. It is built in polychrome terracotta and ‘Ruabon’ brick decoration of outstanding quality. The main female figure which stands on the apex of a decorative gable in the centre of the west façade, crowned and holding a distaff, symbolizes the Textile Industry. This figure may be compared to Kellock Brown’s version of the same subject made a few years later for the People’s Palace. The gable itself is lavishly ornamented with large, flame-like crockets. This exuberant addition to Glasgow’s streetscape came at a heavy price. As the spectacular façade was under construction it was hit by a severe gust of wind and, not being properly tied to the wall of the weaving shed behind, collapsed on top of it. twenty nine women were killed in the tragedy.

A commemorative plaque mounted on the inside wall of the Templeton Memorial Garden, London Road, Tobago Street reads;

Green buds, for the hope of tomorrow

Fair flowers, for the joy of today

Sweet memory, the fragrance they leave us

As time gently flows on its way

Sep 1954

The carpet making processes at Templetons included spooling, weaving and trimming, showroom, with rugs and carpets on display, including antique rugs, reproductions and a carpet depicting Christ blessing the little children, woven in 1876 for the Paris Exhibition and carpets for three seperate British Coronations – 1911, 1937 & 1953 in which a famous visit was also made by Her Majesty the Queen & HRH Duke of Edinburgh, June 1955. Carpet making flourished and the factory

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undertook prestigious commissions in some of the most important floors of the world, including Government buildings in Australia and New Zealand. Carpet making ended in 1979 and the building was converted by the Scottish Development Agency into a Business Centre. Apprentice bricklayers still visit Templeton’s building as part of their training to study the various usages of brick employed there. More recently part of the former factory has undergone a further conversion to residential accommodation and the WEST brewery has opened a brewery, bar and restaurant within the complex. This is one of Glasgow’s great iconic buildings and is listed Category A.

6. Children’s Play Village

The play village was constructed in 1998 as part of the Glasgow Green Renewal programme. The play facility is secured by

a 3 metre high fence with one main entrance leading from The Green. A maintenance access gate is located on the southern boundary.

The main play area has a number of substantial modern pieces of wooden and robust metal play equipment suitable for 4 -14 years allowing for imagination and fun, featuring Dalben towers with interconnecting units, mobilis swing, climbing ropes, runabout and cableway set in safety sand areas. There is also a large area of safety surfacing.

7. James Martin Fountain and Canopy, Category ‘B’ Listed.

The fountain was designed and manufactured by Walter Macfarlane &

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Co. based at Possilpark and installed in 1893. It was financed by friends of Bailie James Martin. There are just a few fountains of this scale distributed around the world.

An octagonal cast iron canopy is supported on slender colonettes, with river scenes, inscriptions and the Glasgow Crest in exterior lunettes. There are garden birds in dome scrollwork and an eagle finial and gryphons around the outer edge. The inside of the dome is outstanding resembling a deciduous tree canopy in which life size owls are hidden.

The interior fountain is in the form of a squat octagonal column on cabriole legs, originally supporting a bust of Martin. The bust was removed in 1974. Its whereabouts are unknown, (see page sixty two showing the James Martin Fountain displaying the original bust now sadly missing.)

The fountain was originally located between the People’s Palace and Monteith Row currently on the site of the Doulton Fountain. The base of the colonettes and cabriole legs and basins of the inner fountain were painted black. The majority of the fountain canopy was painted pale green with beading picked out with orange. The eagle and gryphons were painted cream/white.

The fountain was restored by Heritage Engineering based at Carstairs. The eagle, gryphons and banding on top of the dome were gilded with 24 carat gold. Lower

accessible details were picked out in gold paint.

The fountain is also located close to the Play Village site, is floodlit and connected to the water mains.

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8. Prince Charles Edward Stewart Commemorative Round Seat

Glasgow’s tranquillity was disturbed during the winter of 1745 when Prince Charles Edward Stewart threatened to sack the city for alleged tax arrears of £15,000. His Highland Army camped on Fleshers Haugh where the Prince reviewed his troops standing in a strategic position

under a thorn tree.

The Prince himself was particularly admired. During his stay, Bonnie Prince Charlie was introduced to a local merchant’s daughter, Clementina Walkinshaw, who became his mistress. Prince Charlie’s Army was defeated at Culloden and he died in exile. His body is buried in the Stewart crypt in Rome.

The thorn tree became known as Prince Charlie’s Tree which is thought to have survived until 1845 when the venerable relic was destroyed ‘by a band of mischievous scoundrels during a Queen’s Birthday riot’.

Today the spot is marked by a circular seat, plaque and ornamental central tree planting.

When visiting this location you can either continue to follow the main circular trail or, alternatively visit trail items 16, 17 & 18 outwith the points of main interest crossing at King’s Drive into the Dassie Green.

9. St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge, Category ‘A’ listed

This bridge was constructed in 1854 to a design by Neil Robson. The chains and deck are wrought iron, the pylons cast iron, each with four fluted Corinthian

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columns almost 20 ft high. Its construction was promoted by Bailie Harvie to allow factory workers safe passage over the River Clyde who had previously used a ferry. It also provided a link to Glasgow Green from the densely populated Gorbals area. In 1997 a major renovation project was carried out. The parapets and timber decking were replaced and the ornamental cast iron Corinthian columns refurbished. To complete the project the bridge was repainted and surrounding area landscaped.

10. Hugh Macdonald Fountain

Hugh Macdonald was one of Glasgow’s great journalists. He wrote the famous book ‘Rambles Around Glasgow’ which was aimed at discouraging people spending too much time in shebeens and drinking houses in an attempt to encourage

them to pursue a healthier lifestyle going for walks in the countryside around Glasgow. The book was popular and reprinted in several editions. The memorial fountain was installed on Glasgow Green in 1881.

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11. Nelson’s Column, Category ‘A’ listed

Shortly after the death of Viscount Horatio Nelson (1758-1805) at the Battle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805), Glasgow raised £2,000 by public subscription to build a 144 foot high stone obelisk and plinth to commemorate this heroic figure. The foundation stone was laid on Friday 1st August 1806, the anniversary of the Battle of Aboukir. The ceremony saw some 80,000 spectators attend, with all of the public bodies in the city present, including the 23 Masonic Lodges. The ceremony began with a

service in the Cathedral, and thereafter, a procession to the Green.

In the foundation stone, a plate was placed with the following inscription:

“By the favour of Almighty God, Sir John Stuart of Allenbank, Baronet, Provincial Grand Master Mason of the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire laid this foundation stone of the monument, erected by the inhabitants of Glasgow, in grateful remembrance of the eminent service of the Right Honourable Horatio, Lord Viscount Nelson, Duke of Bronte in Sicily, Vice Admiral of the White Squadron of His Majesty’s Fleet.

Who, after a series of transcendent and heroic actions, fell gloriously in the Battle off Cape Trafalgar on the 21st October 1805.

“This stone was laid on 1st August in the Year of Our Lord 1806, and the 44th year of the reign of our most gracious sovereign, George 3rd in the presence of John Hamilton, Esquire, Lord Provost of the City of Glasgow, and members of the Committee of Subscribers to the monument, which undertaking may the supreme God

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prosper, D Hamilton, architect, A Brocket, mason”.

The monument was designed by David Hamilton, built by Andrew Brocket and located on the site of the Herds House in 1806. This was the first monument in Britain to be erected in Nelson’s honour. It was extensively damaged 4 years later in 1810 by a lightning strike which caused the top 6metres of masonry to collapse, and the remainder was in such danger that a military guard had to be placed around it to keep the public within a safe distance. Some years before this incident Benjamin Franklin had been advocating the use of Thunder sticks (lightning conductors) at a meeting in Glasgow University. After this event lightning conductors were fitted to all tall buildings in the city. The monument was extensively refurbished in 2002 with assistance from Heritage Lottery Fund, Historic Scotland and 1805 Club funding.

12. James Watt Commemorative Stone

This round granite stone commemorates the world famous James Watt. Watt, an instrument maker at Glasgow University’s Physics Department, had a habit

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of taking a Sunday walk on Glasgow Green. The stone was placed here on the 2nd September 1969.

Watt later described his discovery to a friend, as follows:

“I had gone to take a walk on a fine Sabbath afternoon, early in 1765. I had entered the Green by the gate at the foot of Charlotte Street, and had passed the old washing house. I was thinking upon the engine at the time, and had gone as far as the herd’s house, when the idea came into my mind that, as steam was an elastic body, it would rush into a vacuum, and if a communication were made between the cylinder and an exhausted vessel, it would rush into it, and might be condensed without cooling the cylinder…………I had not walked further than the golf-house when the whole thing was arranged in my mind”.

At the time Watt was at risk of being taken into custody by die-hard, puritanical compurgators who patrolled the Green each Sunday during ‘Kirk Hours’ to ensure that everyone was either at church or at home.

13. Sir William Collins Fountain Category ‘B’ Listed

William Collins (1817 – 95) was born in Glasgow the son of a publisher and temperance reformer. He entered his father’s business at a young age, became a partner in 1848 and took over the business when his father died in 1853.

Collins became famous for its Bibles, printed on the

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Collins Clear Type Press. He was knighted in 1880 and served on the Glasgow School Board, (1888 – 94), died in Edinburgh and was buried in the magnificent Glasgow Necropolis.

His father, also William, (1789-53) was one of the founders of the temperance movement in Scotland in 1829, and printed the first temperance literature in Britain.

The fountain is 4m high and was created in 1881 by J Mossman. It consists of a rectangular grey granite pedestal with drinking bowls projecting from the sides. The water outlets above the bowls are in the form of bronze lion masks. A draped female figure representing Temperance stands on a short Doric column, contemplating a flower and with an inverted jug in her right hand. A portrait medallion is on the side facing the courthouse.

A bronze plaque is fitted to the east side with the words ‘Erected by Temperance reformers in recognition of valuable services rendered to the temperance cause by Sir William Collins Lord Provost of the City of Glasgow 1877-80, 29th October 1881’.

14. McLennan Arch Category ‘B’ Listed

The McLennan Arch was originally the centrepiece of the magnificent frontage of Robert and James Adam’s Assembly Rooms on Ingram Street (1792).

When the Assembly Rooms were demolished to enable extension of the General Post Office Bailie James McLennan arranged for it to be reconstructed at the end of Monteith Row near Greendyke Street (1894). It remained there until 1922 when it was moved to another site on the Green opposite Charlotte Street. Foundation problems caused it to tilt with the result

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that it was moved for a fourth time in 1991 to form a central, classical structure featuring Apollo and three Graces in the civic space at Saltmarket opposite the Judiciary Building.

The Arch is one of the few extant pieces of Adam architecture in the city.

15. Greendyke Street Play Area

Set in parkland with grass areas and mature trees the play area adjacent to Greendyke Street was constructed in 2000 to complement the Play Village

as part of the Glasgow Green Renewal programme. The play facility contains a robust range of modern play equipment suitable for 4-14 years including a number of features; Hammock, Spring see-saw, Springy, Galleon Unit, Lookout tower with slide and Double bay swing. A children’s play facility has been a feature of this area since 1923

This brings you to the end of the main circular trail. Why not visit the points of interest below or visit the local facilities for refreshments?

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POINTS OF INTEREST OFF MAIN CIRCULAR ROUTE

16. Dassie Green (McPhun’s Park)

This historic part of Glasgow Green lies next to Fleshers Haugh south of Kings Drive. This is known under various names after the development of the ornamental garden circa 1934, Dassie Green, Daisy Green or McPhun’s Park after a public benefactor Robert McPhun, former owner of Greenhead Sawmills, a local industrialist at the turn of the Century.

It is an area of amenity parkland with maintained grass, mature and younger trees with a renewed path system. It was recently upgraded as part of the Glasgow Green Renewal. The central features of public interest are the war memorial and the vertical stones ‘circular’ feature know as the Time Spiral

This area is fenced off from the Football Complex and the former bowling green site to the north.

17. War Memorial

The War Memorial sited within McPhun’s Park/Dassie Green was installed in 1919 / 1920. The memorial has been re-

pointed, cleaned and the text painted.

The War Memorial erected by comrades and friends commemorates those who fell in the Great War 1914- 1918 whilst serving in Gallipoli, Egypt, Palestine, France, Belgium and Mesopotamia.

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18. Time Spiral

This feature traces important historical events up to the present time. It is constructed in large upright washed rocks and the special dates accentuated by attached plaques describing what they signify. These are laid out in the form of a spiral which people can walk between, tracing their steps backwards in time towards a central carved feature. It is designed to encapsulate in time, future events of history. The rocks within the time spiral are ancient Scottish gneiss (metaphoric rock) representing some of the oldest rocks in Britain.

In order to understand Glasgow Green’s significance in Scottish History, let us take a step back in time...

HISTORY

Glasgow Green, the oldest public space in the United Kingdom, is remarkable in the unique contribution it has made to the lives of the people of Glasgow, Scotland, the United Kingdom, Europe and the World. It is the place where James Watt conceived the idea of the steam condenser which launched the Industrial Revolution. It is also the origin of the Trade Union Movement, Female Emancipation and the European Temperance Movement amongst others. It is firmly associated with the birth of Celtic and Rangers Football Clubs and was the site of the first Golf Course in the City.

It is regarded as one of the great social battlefields in Europe through its association with religious, political, suffrage and other momentous demonstrations. It has fielded theatres, fairs, pageants and more recently, marathons, pop concerts, fireworks displays, children’s play-days, World Pipe Band Championships, Big Day Celebrations, Michael Jackson Concert and the World Folk Festival. At the height of the Industrial Revolution,

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it provided a green oasis, a welcome release from appalling, cramped and unhealthy living conditions in the surrounding areas. During quiet periods, it acts as an oasis, a space for relaxation and spiritual refreshment.

There can be few other city parks that are so revered and fiercely protected by its citizens. Glasgow Green is the People’s Park.

For the Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games Glasgow Green will play host to the Hockey competition. Two new dedicated synthetic hockey pitches, athlete and official support areas and spectator stands will be developed on this site and will provide a lasting legacy as a Scottish National Hockey Centre. This venue will be situated adjacent to the location of the start and finish of the Cycling road and time trial events.

THE MEANING OF GLASCU

The most commonly accepted translation of the word Glascau comes from Brythomic Celtic-Cumbric ‘Glas’ – meaning Green and ‘cau’ meaning hollow; Place of the Green Hollow, Dear Green Place. Over the years Glascau has hardened into Glasgow.

HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT OF GLASGOW GREEN

397 -1778 THE CREATION OF GLASGOW

The early development of Glasgow and Glasgow Green was led by the Church. In 397, St. Ninian, the first Scottish Saint, consecrated a burial ground on

the site of the present Cathedral. St. Kentigern laid Fergus, a holy man, to rest there in 581 and remained to establish a monastery on this site.

St. Kentigern died in 603 and because he was remembered with great affection, he was renamed St. Mungo (dear one). St Mungo was responsible through

Mural of Glasgow Green in the Banqueting Hall City Chambers

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his miraculous works, for the key elements of the City Crest; the robin, tree, mound, salmon, ring and bell. The slogan, ‘Let Glasgow Flourish by the preaching of the Word; abbreviated to ‘Let Glasgow Flourish’, is attributed to this period. The Glasgow Crest is worn proudly to this day.

At this time, the present area of Glasgow Green consisted of low lying, alluvium beside the river. A substantial part was prone to regular flooding particularly at the southern end on Flesher’s Haugh. Camlachie Burn flowed along a channel separated from the river, in part, by the High Green. The Molindinar and Camlachie Burns formed a natural barrier between Glasgow Green and the city. The land was used for grazing cattle, washing, fishing and swimming particularly at Flesher’s Haugh.

THE GIFT OF GLASGOW GREEN TO THE PEOPLE OF GLASGOW

In 1450, Glasgow became a Burgh of Regality. Bishop Turnbull ratified public use of Glasgow Green which had been in the possession of the community from time immemorial by gifting Glasgow Green to the people for common grazing land. At this time, Glasgow’s population was 2,000, and the town had become a place of pilgrimage.

COMPOSITE PLAN IN 1560

Circa 1560 shows Glasgow Green at a location west of the Briggait. In the 16th and 17th Centuries, there were substantial areas of common lands around Glasgow. At this time, common land was sold to raise finance for the

City. In 1588/9, Milndamhead, Pietbog and Dassie Green were feued out. However, having realised the implications, the City bought the lands back and enlarged the Green between 1662-1690 and 1770-

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1792 at a cost of £7,543.1s.1d. A condition applies stipulating that lands are to remain with the Council and community in perpetuity as the common green and lands.

Local improvements were carried out. In 1647, the Master of Work was instructed to plough, harrow and level the green and (dress about the stank), a pool of standing water. In 1660, Bailie Campbell and Dean of Guild were asked to plant trees on the Green. William Cunninghame, magistrate at this time, took steps to protect tree stocks within the city.

FOOT ‘RAICES’ AND OTHER GAMES

The Green bustled with life. The City Fathers even organised ‘foot raices’ round the Green. In 1675 the winner was awarded a generous prize of £1 sterling, equivalent to £12 Scots.

Cricket, shinty, football and other games were also played on the Green. For over 400 years a rowdy game of football was played every Shrove Tuesday. The number of players was unlimited and there were few, if any, rules.

SCOTCH WASHING

The area around the Camlachie Burn was called Castle Boins on account of the multitude of tubs or bions in which scores of women daily tramped their washing with skirts and petticoats hitched high. This was always a source of amusement to visitors. The scene was illustrated on the lid of a large burrrwood snuff box

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owned by the keeper of the wash-house constructed in 1732 on the banks of the Camlachie Burn.

JOHN WESLEY

By 1660, the population of Glasgow had risen to 14,000. It was on this roughly levelled, public open space that the great Evangelist John Wesley preached (1751).

CIRCA 1778 (Population 40,000)

A 1778 map shows the basic land form. It distinguishes between the High Green and Gallowgate Green, separated by the Camlachie Burn; New Green and the flood-prone alluvial Low Green and Provost Haugh then owned by Mr Bell. The Molindinar threads its course between housing on Gallowgate. The map identifies the location of Herds House, a shelter used by a burgh employee to oversee cattle. It is thought this may have existed for a number of centuries beforehand.

GLASGOW’S FIRST STEAMIE

The Washing House was built on the banks of Camlachie Burn in 1732. It was located in the middle of a flat field, a busy space frequented by women of all ages, children and young girls spreading out their linen and watching over it while it bleached. The City inhabitants, both rich and poor, sent their linen to be washed here. There were two large rooms each with a hot water cistern in the middle and benches around the walls for women to set their tubs upon. When Dorothy Wordsworth visited Glasgow Green in 1803 she recorded that both rooms were full, accommodating between 200 and 300 women.

The public slaughterhouse was built on Skinners Green, west of the Molindinar in 1744, close to the

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Merchant’s Hospital. Intestines were heaped and left to rot in preparation for rope making. It became a public nuisance and was moved to Gallowgate in 1818. A 1778map shows a sawmill on the north east corner of the Low Green. It is apparent that extensions to tree planting had taken place along the eastern boundary of the Low Green, along the north, east and south east boundaries of Gallowgate Green; along the east boundary of High Green and along the south east, south and west edges of New Green.

THE WHISTLING KIRK

St Andrew’s by the Green was Glasgow’s first Episcopal Church. It was built by public subscription to minister to the English community in Glasgow and completed in 1750. It was the first post-reformation church in Glasgow to use an organ in public worship, first a Schnezler then a Donaldson of York in 1792. It was nicknamed the ‘Whistling Kirk’ .

VINCENZO LUNARDI: BALLOONIST

The famous Italian balloonist Vincenzo Lunardi, (1759-1806), made an assent from St. Andrew’s Square (not then built). It is recorded that his balloon passed over an enormous crowd on Glasgow Green in 1785. He descended at Hawick, 70 miles away. So great was the level of interest that the balloon was exhibited in Glasgow Cathedral. Admission was 1s.

CALTOUN WEAVER RIOTS

Towards the end of the 18th Century, political meetings held on Glasgow Green became increasingly volatile. In 1787, 7,000 Caltoun Weavers demonstrated against a 25% cut in wages and the employment of scab workers. During the ensuing riot, 6 weavers were killed and are acknowledged to be the first martyrs during the emergence of Trade Unionism. The oldest minute book of the Incorporation of Weavers refers to Caltoun and Blackfaulds and then Calton up until 1872

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CIRCA 1797 (Population 75,000)

In 1797 OS maps indicate that Gallowgate Green had been renamed Caltoun Green. The sawmill is not shown. Charlotte Street was built in 1780 and the Humane Society, a two storey building constructed beside the river, was completed in 1790. Funded for the purposes of rescuing persons from drowning in the Clyde.

GLASGOW’S FIRST GOLF COURSE

Although golf originated on the sandy machairs of Scotland’s east coast it was being played on Glasgow Green as early as the 16th century. The game was not regulated until a group of rich gentlemen created the Glasgow Golf Club in 1787. Rules of play were based on those of the honourable company of golfers at Edinburgh. The City Magistrates agreed to the club with twenty five members demolishing the herd’s house and building a club house. The course had seven holes and a game consisted of three rounds. Members had

Charlotte Street

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to wear a grey jacket or pay a fine of a bottle of rum. For a considerable period of time the course was the only one in the West of Scotland. It had many hazards including herds of sheep, cattle, people washing and bleaching linen and occasionally drilling soldiers.

The club lapsed between 1794 and 1809 and had disappeared by 1833. It was revived a generation later and became the city’s most exclusive golf club. Towards the end of the century the club moved to Queen’s Park. Four years later it moved to Alexandra Park and in 1895a course was set up in Blackhill. The final move was to Killermont just outside the city boundary on the north bank of the River Kelvin. The club successfully obtained a permanent few from the Corporation in 1922.

It is known that a timber bridge linked the Low Green with Hutchesontown. On another night of rioting by the Caltoun Weavers, the military opened fire and during the panic, the bridge collapsed killing one man and injuring many more.

ALLAN’S PEN

At the beginning of the 19th Century, protection of free public access through Glasgow Green was enforced by the Community. Glasgow Textile Merchant, Alexander Allan, built a tunnel (pen) which prevented public access alongside the river. Although no direct action was taken, the Weavers of Bridgeton refused to work for him even when offered increased rates. This issue together with speculation on the cotton market almost ruined him. Later that year, the Clyde burst its banks and the pen was swept away. Allan died in near poverty in 1809.

JAMES CLELAND - 1813 Proposals for Improvements

James Cleland noted that the community using the Green as a thoroughfare formed a number of foot tracks that ran towards their destinations. The footpath system that has evolved on Glasgow Green over the last 184 years was primarily based on these desire lines.

Cleland commented that the Council would set the priority of planting a number of additional trees on

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the Green and it would “ill become him to attempt a particular description of the species, or the manner in which they should be arranged, knowing that these matters were properly committed to the immediate charge of a member of the Council, than whom there were so few competent, none more zealous to promote the best interests of the community”.

It is worth noting the strength of reference to “the community” and also that James Cleland was bowing to the expertise of others with regard to planting within Glasgow Green. This trend has continued in that planting on Glasgow Green has “evolved” and is the product of the minds of successive generations over the last 184 years. This is in stark contrast to many historic parks/gardens the heritage of which expresses the vision of eminent designers e.g. Repton Brown, Olmsted and most notably Sir Joseph Paxton who designed Kelvingrove, Queens and Alexandra Parks in Glasgow.

COAL SEAMS UNDER THE GREEN

In 1813, James Cleland discovered that there was sufficient coal under Glasgow Green to yield 15,000 tonnes a year for 100 years. This idea was not taken seriously until 1858 when the City found themselves in debt to the tune of £100,000. This was alleged to be the result of buying Kelvingrove and Glasgow advocates tried to find the debt by leasing the mineral rights to John McDowall (‘Airn John’), owner of the Milton Ironworks in Northwoodside. Following extreme public protest at the likelihood of the Green becoming a rubbish tip for 100 years, the idea was dropped but resurrected again in 1869 and 1888 and was successfully resisted by the community.

Between 1816 and 1826 James Cleland employed destitute Weavers to regrade, drain, plant and form routes on Glasgow Green. His improvements were extremely well received and resulted in a series of quality, exclusive developments around the Green. Monteith Row, (Doctor’s Row), considered one of the most prestigous streets in Glasgow was designed by David Hamilton and constructed in 1820. Charlotte Street was laid out by Patterson and David Dale,

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consisting of oppulent mansions with large gardens.

PUBLIC HANGINGS

In 1814, the south end of Saltmarket was a cul-de-sac. A timber footbridge over the Clyde existed. Jocelyn Square was created in front of the High Court and became the location of public hangings (facing Nelson’s Monument) until 1865. During this period, 71 people were hanged in public (67 men and 4 women). Their crimes ranged between robbery, forgery, housebreaking, rape, murder, throwing vitriol (sulphuric acid) and high treason. Dr. Pritchard was the last person to be hanged on a Saturday morning, 29th July 1865. His crime was the murder by poisoning of his wife and mother-in-law after his affair with a fifteen year old servant Mary MacLeod was uncovered. Pritchard ‘died facing the Monument’. This was the Glasgow fashion of referring to a public hanging, since the last thing a condemned man would see before he dropped would be the obelisk of the Nelson Monument on the Green. It was estimated that a crowd of between 80,000 and 100,000 saw him die at the hands of William Calcraft, the public hangman. This was Glasgow’s last public hanging.

GLASGOW FAIR

From 1820, Glasgow Fair was held in Jocelyn Square and Glasgow Green, opposite the High Court. The Fair was created by Bishop Jocelyn’s Charter in 1189. It ran for 1 week beginning 7th July, the date on which Glasgow Cathedral was dedicated in 1136. Following the Reformation, it became the first Monday in July and in 1752, when 11 days were omitted from the Julian calendar, Fair Monday started on the second or third

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Monday.

For centuries previously, it was held next to the Cathedral. It moved to Stockwell Street and ultimately Glasgow Green. Originally it was farming orientated with horse and cattle markets. Farmers engaged labourers there. When the new cattle market opened in 1818,

the holiday became an occasion for merry-making. Large booths occupied the street with theatres and smaller tents located along the north side. There were whisky drinking booths, keek shows, penny geggies, menageries, freak shows, waxworks, swings, roundabouts and other attractions. Scotland’s greatest boxer Benny Lynch first fought here in the boxing booths. At the end of the 19th Century, 90,000 people enjoyed the Fair each year. Although attendances have since dropped, Glasgow Green has remained the natural venue for travelling shows to this day.

CIRCA 1825

On an 1825 map planting is shown in the north east corner of Glasgow Green and also around the edges of High Green and Kings Park. Cross links of planting have been created approximately on the line of Kings Drive and along the boundary separating High Green from Kings Park, the natural riverbank.

Mural of Glasgow Green in the Banqueting Hall City Chambers

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The land improved by Cleland and unemployed weavers was substantially levelled. Matthew, the apostle of Temperance, preached on Glasgow Green in 1829. This heralded the start of the European Temperance Movement.

100,000 marched on Glasgow Green calling for the abolition of the House of Lords in opposition to proposals by the Whigs to dissolve political union, (1831). November 1834 witnessed 20,000 parading on the Green for ‘liberty or death’. A year later during the election, a multitude heard Daniel O’Connell speak.

A similar sized demonstration took place on the Green in favour of Chartism. This included 70 trade unions. There were also peaceful meetings. During the 1830’s, the first organised demonstration took place about Burgh reform and extension of the franchise. These were essentially pageants held to enhance the respectability of the Reform Movement. Many demonstrations took place before the 1832 Reform Bill but also in 1867 and in 1884. This was an era marked by by historic, social and religious struggles. Participants wore badges and aprons which were proudly handed down from generation to generation.

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CIRCA 1839 (Population 240,000)

This painting shows considerable development of the circulation system within Glasgow Green. It is beginning to assume a form similar to that which exists today.

The western boundary is set back to St. Andrew’s by the Green creating an esplanade, Jocelyn Square, fronting the High Court. The park is surrounded by a fence with gates located at the Charlotte Street junction, London Road and entrances along Monteith Row. These developments accord with Cleland’s original proposals. “The Green”, the present primary road which runs approximately parallel with Monteith Row has been formed. A subsidiary path has been created between “The Green” and Monteith Row.

Of particular interest is the “carriageway system” built around the park from the North West entrance passing directly beside the river at the lower level, round Flesher’s Haugh, returning via Kings Park, High Green and Low Green towards “the Green”. It is understood that charges were levied on those who drove round the Green according to the size of the carriages. This explains why the path structure within Glasgow Green is so wide.

The paths on higher levels are retained and desire lines reflected in path construction across the High Green from Charlotte Street and Monteith Row. A ferry was in operation linking Hutchesontown with Glasgow Green crossing at the Humane Society House. A well is shown in the middle of the park, west of the Washing House. There are also 2 link footpaths/carriageways entering Jocelyn Square. The City Wharf is shown beside the

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river at the North West corner of the Green.

In 1835, Mumford constructed a timber theatre, a “Penny Geggie”, in the north east corner of Glasgow Green.

In 1847, the Glasgow Monkland and Airdrie Railway Company attempted to build a viaduct across the Green. This proposal was defeated in Parliament.

GLASGOW GREEN 1849/50 (Population 320,000)

A river bridge between Saltmarket Street and Crown Street, south of the river is shown. It was designed by Robert Stevenson, (grandfather of Robert

Louis Stevenson), and opened in 1834.

The original bridge had 5 arches and a width of 35 feet. When the second weir was removed, water scoured the soil causing the foundations to be exposed. The bridge was demolished four years later and replaced by a timber bridge. The present Albert Bridge was opened in 1871. It has a cast-iron super structure supported by granite peers which are founded on huge concrete pillars encased in iron caissons. It is 410 feet long and 60 feet wide.

THE CLYDE WEIR AT GLASGOW GREEN

From 1851 to 1880 a weir with a lock stood on this site. The first tidal weir was built by Glasgow Corporation between 1896-1901 and remained until scour undermined an abutment foundation in 1941

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leading to the collapse of the structure. The present steel structure, which also carries large diameter pipes across the Clyde, was completed in 1949 as part of the scheme to replace the earlier weir. The primary function of the weir is to control the upstream water level of the river by retaining a constant 4.5 metres depth with a width of approximately 80 metres. The weir underwent the first major refurbishment works since 1949. This included: Installation of a new deck and handrails, grit blasting of steelwork, repair and painting of steelwork to a standard that will last several decades complete rewiring and Installation of period light fittings to restore original character

GLASGOW GREEN CIRCA 1860 (Population 390,000)

This oblique sketch clearly shows the carriageway system on Glasgow Green. Jocelyn Square fronting the High Court is a substantial space and 3 carriageway system on Glasgow Green. The ‘thoroughfare’ nature of the circulation system is apparent creating linkages between Jocelyn Square, Charlotte Street, London Road, Monteith Row, Binnie Place at the south end of Monteith Row, Greenhead Street and St. Andrew’s Suspension Bridge.

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ROWING ON THE CLYDE

Etchings clearly show plenty of rowing activity on the river. At this time rowing was an extremely popular sport. Most businesses had a rowing team. The Clydesdale Amateur Rowing Club was established in 1857, the outcome of a small meeting in Steele’s Coffee Room. The founder was a Glasgow businessman James Henry Roger who was the owner and manager of the Bodego wine shop in Exchange Square off Buchanan Street.

The Clyde Rowing Club was created in 1865 and Glasgow Rowing Club in 1867. Many of the trades associations formed clubs. Glasgow University created theirs in 1877. This was shortly followed by the formation of the Glasgow and West of Scotland Amateur Rowing Association (1881).

Glasgow Police formed a club in 1892 and went on to become the Scottish 4’s champions in 1896, 1897 and 1898. Such was the popularity of rowing that around the 1900’s Ladies Rowing Clubs emerged at a time when women’s suffrage was a key issue of the day. Even the theatrical fraternity formed rowing clubs.

THE CREATION OF ‘THE RANGERS’.

The Glasgow Green is commonly recognised as the birthplace of Glasgow Rangers who were formed in 1872 when members of a rowing club on the Green took a break from their training on the Clyde and participated in a game of football on Flesher’s Haugh and became fascinated with the new sport. Among the rowers were two brothers Peter and Moses McNeil, along with their friends William McBeath and Peter Campbell. The friends were so impressed with football that they decided to form their own team. It is believed

1900: Note Houses at Adelphi Street

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that Moses McNeil suggested calling it ‘Rangers’ after seeing the name in an English rugby football annual.

Rangers’ first game was held in May of 1872 against Callander F.C. on the pitches at Flesher’s Haugh, which resulted in a 0-0 draw. Rangers only played 2 matches in their first season, and their second match was a comprehensive 11-0 win over a team named Clyde - not the present Clyde F.C. Rangers played at Flesher’s Haugh for three years before moving to their own ground, a field at Burnbank.

Moses McNeil became Rangers’ first-ever international when he was called up by Scotland to play against Wales in 1876. Moses also appeared in Rangers’ first-ever Scottish Cup Final side in 1877 and he scored as his team went down 3-2 in a second replay with Vale of Leven.

THE BIRTH OF CELTIC FOOTBALL CLUB

Celtic Football Club was created out of the efforts of a Roman Catholic Priest attempting to alleviate poverty in the east end of Glasgow. Celtic was formed in 1888 in St. Mary’s Church Hall, Calton. During the 1960s and 1970s, Celtic won 9 successive Championships and became the first British Club to win the European Cup in 1967.

Both Celtic and Rangers played a key role in setting up the Scottish League in 1890. Commemorative plaques featuring both clubs can be seen on the Time Spiral monument located in the Dassie Green.

EVANGELISM AND THE TENT

During the 1870s Moody and Sankey held large evangelical meetings in a tent erected at the base of Nelson’s Monument. These meetings appealed to the working classes and poor of the city which established Churches failed to reach. They built a permanent building “the Tent Hall”. This was the largest Gospel Hall in Glasgow and was located on Greendyke Street. Every Sunday without a break between 1875 and 1979breakfast was served to the poor in the area. The Tent Hall YMCA has now been converted to flats.

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START OF THE EUROPEAN TEMPERANCE MOVEMENT

The European Temperance Movement started in Glasgow Green in 1829. Collins the publisher ensured that the message was read. In 1992 the Collins fountain was relocated near the McLennan Arch as part of the civic space.

ORDNANCE SURVEY 1881 (Population 511,415)

By 1881, the circulation system had undergone a number of refinements again based on thoroughfare requirements.

The previous three entrances into Jocelyn esplanade were reduced to one and the carriageway running beside Greendyke Street straightened. An additional path created a link to Monteith Row directly. Paths radiated from St. Andrew’s Suspension Bridge like a fan. A well is indicated near the Charlotte Street entrance and a pump shown where there was formally a well west of the public washing house. For the first time seats and benchmarks are shown throughout the site.

At this time Flesher’s Haugh had not been filled and the Lower Provost or Flesher’s Haugh continued to be prone to flooding.

Planting in and around Flesher’s Haugh remained the same, elsewhere planting is sparsely shown.

Sir William Collins Lord Provost of Glasgow (1817-1895)

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ORDNANCE SURVEY 1896

Between 1881 and 1896 a large number of extremely significant changes took place both within and around the Green.

In 1888 Glasgow Corporation authorised the Caledonian Railway Company to deposit spoil from the tunnel excavations on Flesher’s Haugh. This brought Flesher’s Haugh and Kings Park up to the same level. Although Kings Drive and Kings Bridge is shown on the plan, the latter was not built until 1901 using wood from the temporary bridge erected while Jamaica Street Bridge was being built. In 1933 it was replaced by the present concrete and girder five-span bridge. Similarly Polmadie Bridge, a pedestrian bridge linking Flesher’s Haugh and Richmond Park, was originally constructed in timber salvaged from the temporary Jamaica Street Bridge, (1901),. The present pre-stressed concrete bridge was constructed as recently as 1955.

The footpath system on Flesher’s Haugh retains the old higher Kings Park path and has three straight paths crossing it providing thoroughfare access from Glasgow Green to Newhall Street and Rutherglen Bridge.

A drying green was located in the south east corner of Flesher’s Haugh and there are remnants of the former tree planting, (1797), in the centre of Flesher’s Haugh shown as two roundels.

After a year long debate the Doulton Fountain was moved to Glasgow Green in 1890. It is a splendid celebration of the British Empire at its peak. The slogan ‘Let Glasgow Flourish’ features. In order to accommodate the Doulton Fountain the carriageway layout changed substantially. The Jocelyn Square esplanade was removed and a new park frontage created close to the High Court. The entrance was in the form of a crescent. A new carriageway was constructed on a slightly skewed axis off Saltmarket leading towards Nelson’s Monument.

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The north carriageway was straightened passing the new Park House and Yard to “The Green”. A new footpath link was created to Turnbull Street and links to the Doulton Fountain formed. The hard surface at the base of Nelson’s Monument was enlarged to its present dimensions. The Humane Society House had been rebuilt and a separate boathouse constructed. The adult gymnasium is shown and a bandstand erected within a circular area located directly west of the public baths and washhouse.

NEW BUILDINGS ON THE GREEN

Templeton’s Carpet Factory was designed by William Leiper. He based his ideas on the Doges Palace in Venice. It was completed in 1889.

Redevelopment of the carriageway system in Glasgow

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Green was accompanied by extensive tree planting alongside Greendyke Street and the riverside. Formal avenues were planted between the entrance past the Doulton Fountain towards Nelson’s Monument. A small woodland was planted south of the adult gymnasium site. The remnants of woodland planting on Flesher’s Haugh remain but the planting in front of Monteith Row was removed when the Glasgow Central line railway tunnel was constructed. At this time Glasgow Green Station was formed. In addition tram lines are shown along London Road leading to Great Hamilton Street.

The 1896 plan shows the location of the People’s Palace and Winter Gardens within an enclosed ornamental garden.

Sewage outfalls have clearly proliferated along the banks of the Clyde. There are also two additional ferries in operation; the Oatlands Ferry linking Flesher’s Haugh with Hutchesontown and another ferry linking Flesher’s Haugh with Richmond Park.

GLASGOW GREEN UNIVERSITY

At the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of the 20th Century Glasgow Green became a focus for demonstrations. It was the terminus for the Mayday March and every weekend orators of one persuasion or another would speak taking up their stance between the High Court and Nelson’s Monument. Listening was an education in itself. The public were frequently incredulous at what they had heard, went to local lending libraries, read up the subject and returned the following week to refute the orator; often bringing books with them as evidence.

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Many working people considered Glasgow Green to be their place of education. It was said that many Glasgow Councillors and Members of Parliament had graduated from Glasgow Green University.

The most famous preachers included Harry Alfred Long, (1826-1905), who always drew immense crowds. He was the Director of the Glasgow Working Men’s Evangelist Association. Prior to the First World War the Green was a favourite place for Suffrage meetings. These stopped abruptly at the outbreak of the First World War. In 1915Glasgow experienced a major rent strike. Bread which had doubled in price was subsidised.

RED CLYDESIDE

The Scottish United Trades Council Independent Labour Party was formed on the Green in 1892, four years after the Scottish Labour Party. The Boer War ran between 1899 and 1902 during which Britain defeated the Dutch settlers in South Africa. During these years public opinion in Glasgow was broadly pacifist. The Independent Labour Party published ‘Foreword’ (1906)which spoke out against war. By the start of the Great War in 1914, the activists John MacLean, James McDougall

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and the exiled Russian Peter Petrov attracted anti-war campaigners to Glasgow. Lloyd George (Minister of Munitions) visited Glasgow in 1915 confident in his powers of persuasion. Frosty and hostile meetings were held with the Clyde Workers Committee. Lloyd George concluded that delays in the delivery of heavy artillery were caused by labour difficulties.

The paper ‘Foreword’ was banned. The editor of the ‘Worker’ who opposed the Conscription Act was jailed. The Red Clydeside image of Glasgow led to perceptions that Glasgow’s Shipyards were impeding the War effort. This view was not supported by others.

Glasgow Green provided a speaker’s haven throughout this period. However, in 1916 Glasgow Corporation passed a byelaw prohibiting singing, preaching, lecturing and demonstrating in public parks without written authority. This was not revoked until 1932 and became an issue for the freedom of speech on Glasgow Green. Guy Alfred Aldred (1886-1963) was a passionate anti-parliamentary communist and anarchist. He also edited the ‘Word’ and fought for 10 years to have this repressive byelaw repealed.

Between 1919 and 1935 unemployment cast a deep shadow. By 1931 it stood at 3 million. Between 1923and 1939 no less than 10% of the insured population in Scotland was unemployed. By 1932 this had reached 30%.

In June 1931 tramp preachers were jailed for 30 days for preaching Christianity on Glasgow Green. Questions were raised in Parliament by John McGovern over freedom of speech on Glasgow Green and eventually the legislation was repealed in 1932.

ORDNANCE SURVEY 1934 (Population 1,100,000)

During the Recession after the First World War substantial alterations occurred in Glasgow Green. During the 1920s and early 30s it changed radically from predominantly open space into a park equipped with sports, play, leisure and recreation facilities.

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A small play area was provided beside Greendyke Street and two bowling greens with pavilion constructed west of the Doulton Fountain. The McLennan Arch is shown as a focal point at the end of Charlotte Street. It later developed foundation problems and began to tilt. A depot was developed behind the Park House.

An amphitheatre bandstand was constructed on the slope between Nelson’s Monument and the river. This replaced the one previously located in the circular space west of Templeton’s. Strangely, there was an area of allotments located on the riverbank next to the bandstand. This was surrounded by a fence and hedge.

Ornamental gardens were created within an enclosure around the Winter Gardens and People’s Palace. Drying greens are shown near Templetons and at the south east corner of Flesher’s Haugh. The west boathouse was built in 1905 and the east around 1933/34, two children’s play areas were installed beside Kings Drive, one with a paddling pool, both with shelters. The surfaced space between them was later developed into a Blacksmith’s yard. Tennis courts were constructed south of Templetons.

Flesher’s Haugh was converted into a recreation ground with changing pavilion. It was crossed by two paths leading to Polmadie Bridge. Link Carriageways were created between the low level riverside path and Kings Drive at the end of the Kings Bridge abutment. In addition carriageway connections were modified at the south east corner of Flesher’s Haugh.

Former Air-Raid Shelter/Tunnels

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The new weir is shown and the jetty is used by the Humane Society to gain access to the river. The public baths and washhouses are shown beside Templeton’s. In line with concerns about Public Health, public lavatories were provided at various locations; at the north east corner near the High Court; beside the McLennan Arch opposite Charlotte Street, an underground toilet at the junction between Monteith Row and London Road; beside the bowling greens on Flesher’s Haugh accessed from ‘The Green’.

A considerable amount of tree planting took place between 1896 and 1934. Avenue planting was provided alongside the carriageway linking the High Court and Park House/The Green; around the putting green; Winter Gardens enclosure; around triangles of space created by the footpath system; along the frontage of Monteith Row. A great deal of planting also took place in the area between the People’s Palace and Kings Drive creating a series of avenues and infill planting. Avenues were created alongside Kings Drive and around the children’s play areas. Both the ornamental gardens and bowling greens on Flesher’s Haugh were intensively planted. No planting is shown on the riverbanks opposite Glasgow Green except at Richmond Park.

During this period Monteith Row was gradually falling into disrepair. The Barras Market was established in 1923.

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GLASGOW GREEN OS 1954-1976 (Population 790,000 and falling)

By 1976 the entrance to the Green at the High Court had been widened. Flowers were planted along the flanks of two carriageways. The west bowling green included a Parks storage area for grounds maintenance operations. Both the bandstand and allotments are shown but it is known that they were removed in the late 1970s. An enclosed open space is shown between Nelson’s Monument and the putting green.

The public baths and washhouse beside Templetons had been significantly reduced in size. Part of the structure was replaced by open air ponds. Similarly, the tennis courts under-went rationalisation and a blacksmith’s yard was developed between the paddling pool and playground adjacent to Kings Drive. On Flesher’s Haugh the present changing pavilion had been constructed but a small pavilion retained on the site of the original structure.

Daisy Green had no fewer than five public toilets, four accessed from the recreation ground. Not one now exists. During the late 60s the playing surface was changed from black ash to blaes. Over the years this space has hosted Firework Displays, Glasgow Fair and other events. The ground became severely compacted and was no longer used for recreation.

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During the late 70s the link between London Road and ‘The Green’ was closed. Vehicle access to the north end of the Green became tortuous. It involved exiting London Road along Mont Bain Street, turning right past the hostel, (the last remaining building of Monteith Row), driving along Monteith Row and negotiating a hairpin bend to reach ‘The Green’. These measures were taken to encourage vehicles to approach ‘The Green’ from the south as part of local traffic management improvements.

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GLASGOW GREEN RENEWED 2007

The Glasgow Green Renewal Project was completed in 2007, the master plan for the Green’s renewal followed the design laid down by James Cleland in the early part of the nineteenth century. Much that has been achieved is not immediately visible. Debris from air-raid shelters has been removed, contours re-arranged and the ground reinforced to accommodate major events. In addition, however, a number of significant changes have improved every aspect of Glasgow Green’s rich and varied landscape;

• Boundary treatments – new heritage fencing has replaced the original boundary fences removed in the early 1940s to support the war effort (3.36km of fencing including accurate reproduction heritage fencing along Greendyke Street and Saltmarket and riverside safety fencing edging the Clyde),

• Carriageways and paths – surfaces, edging, drainage, lighting, seating and litter bins have been renewed (around 3km of roadways and pathways re-surfaced and 106 new lighting columns erected,

• David Dale’s Gate – a feature entrance has been created with new fencing by renowned artist Adrian Wiszniewski,

• Doulton Fountain – removed from historic site on the Green’s central avenue to a new civic space fronting the People’s Palace, the fountain has been restored to its original magnificence,

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• Events space – new landscaping ensures that around 50% of the total area of the Green is available for festivals, performances and celebrations,

• Interpretation – the Green’s history, its character, culture and monuments are commemorated in eighteen new named gateways, ‘words in stone’ and in new literature and IT resources,

• Guided tours – Glasgow Green Parks staff conduct tours drawing on the new interpretation resources,

• Restoration of monuments – in addition to the McLennan Arch, the Doulton Fountain and Nelson’s Monument, a further three fountains and four monumental/sculptural works have been refurbished

• Security – new fencing and lighting is augmented by CCTV and help points to provide a safer environment for visitors

• Winter Gardens enclosure – provision has been made for catering; statuary from elsewhere on the Green has been restored and brought here to enclosed sculpture garden setting amid new planting.

• Planting – 115 existing trees have been transplanted and 547 new semi-mature trees and 86 topiary yews planted.

CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT OF GLASGOW GREEN

KEY MILESTONE DATES

581-603 St Kentigern/St Mungo established a monastery on the site of the present Cathedral.

1175 Bishop Jocelyn’s first Civic Charter entitled Glasgow to hold a market.

1189 His Second Civic Charter established Glasgow Fair Holiday

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1450 Bishop Turbull gifted Glasgow Green to the people for common grazing land.

1560 Land purchase; Kinlaith, Pietbog and Dassie Green, High Green up to the Camlachie Burn, part of Provost’s Haugh, (Flesher’s Haugh),.

1588/9 Parts were sold of necessity and re-purchased between 1662 and 1792 at a cost of £7,543-1s-1d.

1732 Washhouse built on the banks of the Camlachie Burn, (located in the middle of a flat field),.

1744 Public Slaughterhouse built on Skinners Green. Created a public nuisance. Moved to Gallowgate in 1818.

1745/6 Prince Charles Edward Stewart threatens to sack Glasgow: Army camped on Flesher’s Haugh.

1750 St Andrew’s by the Green: the Episcopal Church: completed.

1765 Watt’s vision of the condenser while walking on Glasgow Green.

1771 Glasgow is considered the most handsome City in Scotland, (Spencer’s English Traveller),.

1780 Charlotte Street built: David Dale lived there.

1787 Glasgow’s first golf course founded on Glasgow Green. Weavers’ demonstration, six killed.

1790 Humane Society two-storey building constructed beside the river. Re-built circa 1895 with separate house and wharf.

1806 Nelson’s Monument erected. 144 ft high. Financed by public subscription; cost £2,000, (1810 – struck by lighting, lost 20ft),.

1810 High Court, Gaol and Public Offices built. Re-built 1910.

1813 James Cleland, (Superintendent of Public Works and City Statistician), prepared proposals for improvements to Glasgow Green and surrounding areas.

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1814 Gaol Square/Jail Square/Jocelyn Square formed fronting the High Court. Location of public hangings up to 1865.

1816/24 Cleland’s improvements carried out using destitute weavers.

1818/20 Monteith Row built by Architect David Hamilton. Demolished and re-named Weaver’s Court in 1982. New housing by Barratt.

1820 Glasgow Fair held on the edge of Glasgow Green opposite the High Court, (Jocelyn Square),.

1831-32 Massive demonstrations on the Green associated with the Reform Bill

1830 – 1914 The Green becomes a favoured meeting place of suffragettes.

1835 Mumford’s Penny Geggie; a timber theatre erected on the north east corner of Glasgow Green beside Saltmarket.

1850 Paddy’s Market located in Jocelyn Square. Moved to north west corner of Glasgow Green, (1869), Greendyke Street Market (1875), drift back to Joceylyn Square, (1910-1914), 1935 move to the Railway Arches –Shipbank Lane.

1852 Weir with lock built to control water levels upstream. Re-built 1901.

1854 St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge built.

1867 Hundreds of thousands meet on the Green to hear about Gladstone’s Reform Bill.

1870’s Evangelical meetings held every Sunday in a tent near Nelson’s Monument. The tent hall was built around 1876.

1872 Rangers Football Club formed on Glasgow Green

1881 Hugh Macdonald Memorial (1817 – 1860). Author of “Rambles Around Glasgow”.

1888 Celtic Football Club officially formed in St

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Mary’s Church Hall, Calton, near Glasgow Green.

1888 Corporation authorised the Caledonian Railway Company to deposit spoil from tunnel excavations on Flesher’s Haugh.

1889 Templeton’s Carpet Factory completed. Designed by William Leiper based on the Doges Palace, Venice.

1890 Doulton Fountain re-located on Glasgow Green. Gifted by Doulton, it featured in the 1888 International Exhibition held in Kelvingrove Park.

1893 James Martin Fountain. Made by the Saracen Foundry Company, Possilpark.

1898 People’s Palace and Winter Gardens opened. Cost £32,000 part of which was funded by the Caledonian Railway Company in compensation for tunnelling under Glasgow Green. Designed by Mr A B McDonald, the City Engineer.

1901 Kings Drive constructed. Kings Bridge erected; originally built in timber. Replaced in 1933 with a concrete and girder structure. Polmadie Bridge was also built in timber. The present pre-stressed concrete structure was erected in 1955.

1905 West Boathouse built.

1920’s Football pitches and changing pavilion constructed on Fleasher’s Haugh.

1923 The Barras Market was formed.

1924 McLennan Arch moved from the Glasgow Athenaeum (1894) to Glasgow Green at the end of Charlotte Street.

1933/4 East Boathouse built.

1970’s The link between London Road and the “Green” closed.

1988 Strathclyde Regional Council’s Road Strategy sought to cross the Green (under or over). Proposal rejected.

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1991/2 Early action proposals. McLennan Arch moved from Charlotte Street to the civic space formed opposite the High Court; Humane Society wharf upgraded; cantilevered viewpoint platform created on the river on an axis with the Winter Gardens.

1996 Glasgow receives Heritage Lottery Award of £6.6m towards the £10.2m capital cost of renewal and revitalisation of the Green.

1996 St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge renovated with ERDF funding.

1996 People’s Palace upgrading with the assistance from the Heritage Lottery funding

2005 The switch on ceremony of the refurbished Doulton fountain unveiled by Glasgow’s Lord Provost, Bailie Liz Cameron

2007 Glasgow Green Renewal Project completed.

2014 Glasgow Green hosts hockey competition as part of the Commonwealth Games providing a lasting legacy as a Scottish National Hockey Centre.

Glasgow Green Renewal Funders:

European Regional Development Fund,

Glasgow City Council,

Heritage Lottery Fund,

The Headley Trust,

Historic Scotland,

The 1805 Club

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James Martin Fountain 1900

Templetons 1900

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Rowing on Glasgow Green Pre Tidal Wier 1900

St. Andrew’s Suspension Bridge & Humane Society House

Doulton looking West

Glasgow Green Suffragettes

Carriageway and Glasgow Green Station 1900

Doulton looking East

AcknowledgementsGlasgow Green Renewal May 1996

Glasgow City Council, The Wee Green Book – Neil Baxter

Public Sculpture of Glasgow, Ray McKenzie

Bridgeton Heritage Trail, Glasgow City Council

The Glasgow Encyclopaedia, Joe Fisher

Glasgow Green And Roundabout, A Tourist Guide, Published by the Friends of the People’s Palace

Friends of Glasgow Green

Heritage and Design Team, Development and Regeneration Services

The text of this heritage trail is the intellectual property of Glasgow City Council and may not be reproduced without authorisation.

All colour pictures copyright Glasgow City Council, black and white pictures and old maps courtesy of Glasgow Museums, Mitchell Library, Glasgow Collection

Travel Line Scotland 0871 200 2233

Travel Information

Train – Service provided by First Scotrail www.firstgroup.com

Glasgow Green is approximately 20 min walking time from Central Station and Queen Street Station, High Street, Bridgeton and Bellgrove Stations are approximately a 10 min walk.

Subway – Fifteen minutes walk from St Enoch Subway station

Bus - Various routes operate from the city centre. Service provided by First Bus www.firstgroup.com

First Bus Services 16, 18, 40, 61, 62, 64, and 263 all stop near Glasgow Green

Car - Car parking is available in Glasgow Green at the front of the People’s Palace, access will be from Green Street and Greendyke Street. On street parking is also available on Greendyke Street and car parks are located at Moir Street, Molendinar Street and High Street.

Walking –

• Access on foot is available via Saltmarket at McLennan Arch

• Greendyke Street, Monteith Row, Greenhead Street and Kings Drive

• Adelphi Street via the St Andrews Suspension Bridge

• Richmond Park via the Polmadie Bridge.

Cycling – Part of the Glasgow to Edinburgh Cycle Route, National Cycle Network Route 75 goes through Glasgow Green.

Land and Environmental Services

General Enquires 0141 287 5064

Travel Line Scotland 0871 200 2233

For more information or a guided tour phone 0141287 5064

Glasgow City Council,

Land and Environmental Services

Glasgow City Council 231 George Street

Glasgow G1 1RX

Phone 0141 287 5064

E-mail LES@land.glasgow.gov.uk

website: www.glasgow.gov.uk/parks