The Sierra Volume 60 ◭ Number 3 ◭ July-September 2016

Glen Dawson 1912-2016A Final Tribute by Bill Oliver

Atop Mt. Whitney after the first ascent of its East Buttress,

September 5, 1937. See page 2 for

full captions.

Special Memorial Supplement Containing Additional Photos and Remembrances

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IhavebeenprivilegedwiththewonderfulfriendshipofGlenDawsonforthepasttwenty-sevenyears.WhileIamawareofhislifeasa“Bookman,FamilyManandEncourager,”Iammostfamiliarwithhisamazinglifeasayoungmountaineer.PairedfirstwithJulesEichornontheSierraClubHighTripsandthenwithhisgrammarschoolchumDickJones,GlenrompedexuberantlyallovertheSierraNevadastarOngin1930,whenallthreeboyswereintheireighteenthyear.

MydirectconnecOonwithGlenfortuitouslyaroseinlatespringof1989.IwasthenchairoftheSierraPeaksSecOon(SPS—oneoftheSierraClub’sAngelesChapterclimbingsecOons),andwewerelookingforaprogramforourannualbanquetinDecember.Idon’trecallthedetails,butIlikehistory,andsomeoneorIcameupwiththeideaofhavingGlenDawson.Wellthen,whynothisearlyclimbingpartnerJulesEichorntoo!Irecallbeingsomewhatsurprisedtoverifythatthesetwoesteemed“dinosaurs”weresOllliving.AndthenIwasstunnedthateachacceptedtheinvitaOon–which

wouldincludemakingthemHonoraryMembersoftheSPS,anhonorpreviouslybestoweduponNormanClydein1960.Mylifewouldbechangedforever–anddefinitelyforthebe^er.

Timedtoappearatthebanquet,Ipennedthefirstofwhatwouldbecomeasix-partseriesintheSPSnewsle^er:“ATributetotheHonoraryMembersoftheSPS:NormanClyde,GlenDawsonandJulesEichorn.”PartIIappearedin1992,andthentherewasfiaeen-yeargapbeforeIknuckleddownandcompletedtheseriesinfourconsecuOveissues,2007-8.IknewGlenwasn’tgecnganyyoungerandthathewaspaOentlyhangingintherejustforme–well,forotherstooIsuppose!

WithkeysupportfromhisbrotherMuiratthat1989banquet,GlenpresentedanawesomeprogramonearlySierraClubclimbing,whichincludedhistwomostwell-knownclimbs:(1)ThefirstascentoftheEastFaceofMt.Whitneyin1931withJulesEichorn,NormanClyde,andRobertUnderhill;and(2)thefirstascentoftheEastBu^ressofMt.Whitneyin1937withDickJones,MuirDawson,andtwoothers.IthinkGlenthensortofbeganalate-lifecareerasapopularspeakerontheclimbingexploitsofhisyouth.Hewouldcommonlyintroducehimselfas“ahistoricalcuriosity–alivingfossil.”Heneverboastedofhisexploitsbut,asaseriousstudentofhistory,hewasawareoftheirhistoricalsignificance.Hisamazingrecallalongwithhiswryhumorandself-deprecaOngmannerendearedhimtoall.Heknewhehadledablessedlife–bothinhisclimbingandbookmancareersandinhisfamily.

Beyondtheselargeappearances,IknowGlenmetone-on-onewithinnumerableinquisiOveyoungclimbersathisVillaGardensapartment–andiftheyOmeditright,he’dhost

themforlunchtoo,andIsharedmanywithGlenovertheyears.GlenDawsoninspiredmetorepeatmanyofhisclimbs,buthealsoinspiredmebyhisgenerousnature,hiswillingnesstosharehisstory,hishumorandimpishsmile,andhisloveforhisGodandhisfamily.Heleavesusanamazingclimbinglegacy,andwearenotlikelytoseethelikesofhimagainrompinguponuntriedpeaks,pinnacles,andwalls.Tohaveknownthisgentlequietmanwasanincomparablegiaandblessingtomeandtosomany.

Glen Dawson and Bill Oliver at the Eastern California Museum’s special Norman Clyde Exhibit—July 11, 2009. This was Glen’s last overnight trip away from Los Angeles (Author’s Collection).

On June 18, 2016, a beautiful Celebration of Life service for Glen Dawson was held at Lake Avenue Church, Pasadena, around the corner from his Villa Gardens apartment. A bound 95-page “keepsake” was offered by his friends — “Remembering Glen Dawson: A Collection of Tributes.” Below is one of those thirty-seven tributes.

A Living FossilBy Bill Oliver

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RememberingGlen Dawson,1912—2016,An Honorary Member of the Sierra Peaks Section ByBillOliver

Nowoveracenturyago,1912,itwouldseem,wasagoodyearforup-and-comingmountaineer/rockclimberstobeborn.TheSierra

NevadasOllhaduntouchedFourteenersummits,NormanClydehadnotyetarrivedonsiteandgonewild,andYosemiteValleywasfullof“unclimbable”spiresandpinnacles.InthatpropiOousyearJulesEichornpoppeduponFebruary7thinSanFrancisco,thencameGlenDawsononJune3rdintheMt.WashingtonneighborhoodofnortheastLosAngeles,andfinallyDickJonesarrivedonOctober11thinthemile-highcityofDenver.Glen’slegendaryclimbingcareerwouldjumpstartwhenhewaseighteenin1930whenhepairedwithJulesoverfourmomentoussummers,thenconOnuedlateintothatdecadepartneredwithhisgrammar-schoolchumDick.LetusfollowalongwiththesetwoexcepOonalandfinelytunedpairings.

TheSierraClubin1912wasonlytwentyyearsyoung,JohnMuirwassOllliving,andtheSouthernCaliforniaChapter(theClub’sfirstchapterandlaternamedAngeles)hadjustbeencharteredthepriorNovember.Glen’sfather,Ernest,aprominentbookseller,hadjoinedtheSierraClubthreeyearsearlierandbeforelongheheadedthechapter’sLocalWalksCommi^ee.ErnestservedontheClub’sboardfrom1922to1937,thelasttwoyearsaspresident.AtagenineGlenwaspresentedwithalifemembershipintheSierraClub,thegiaofboardmemberandfutureClubpresidentAureliaHarwood,andhethuswouldsaveninety-fiveyearsofever-increasingdues.

TheSierraClubhosteditstwelahannualfour-weekouOngorHighTripthat1912summerinthesouthernSierra,tripsthatwereintendedtointroducememberstothenaturalwondersoftheSierraranges,wondersworthprotecOng.

1912

Top: Glen Dawson’s last view of Mt. Whitney, at Mt. Whitney Ranger Station in Lone Pine, July 10, 2009 (Bill Oliver Collection). Middle: Glen Dawson on the morning after the ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney on August 16, 1931 (Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives). Right: Glen Dawson and Jules Eichorn atop Eichorn Pinnacle on its first ascent, July 24, 1931 (Glen Dawson Collection).

On the cover, top: Glen and Muir Dawson in a Los Angeles Times story shortly after the East Buttress climb. Shot at Dawson’s Book Shop (Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives). Bottom: Atop Mt. Whitney after the first ascent of its East Buttress, Sept. 5, 1937. Front, left to right: Dick Jones, Muir Dawson, and Glen Dawson. Rear: Bob Brinton and Howard Koster. Possibly shot by George Shochat (Glen’s brother-in-law) (Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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TheseouOngshadupwardsoftwohundredparOcipants,someforthefourweeksandsomeforeitherhalf,plusapacktrainofabouttwenty-fivemulesandassortedhiredhandsandcooks.Itsoondevelopedthatthetripwouldsplitbetweenthemountaineersandthe“meadoweers.”Climbingpeaks,someOmesinlargegroups,waspopular,butincreasinglysmallerparOesbegantacklingthemorechallengingsummits.FrancisFarquhar,whohadnotablefirstascentstohiscreditandlaterbecameaClubpresident,tookovereditorshipoftheSierraClubBulle/n(SCB)from1926to1946.Thiswasthe“goldenage”ofSierraClubmountaineering,andtheBulle/nbecamealeadingnaOonalpublicaOoninthisfield.EachHighTripwasreportedinfairdetail,inaddiOontoaseparatesecOononMountaineeringNotes.

ThiswastheyearthatDickJones’sfamilyarrivedinLosAngeles.InanemailtomeinSeptember2001,Glenrecalled:

1921RichardMorrisJoneswasfourmonthsyoungerthanIam.Icouldalwaysrememberhisbirthdate:10-11-12.Ididnotlethimforgetmyfour-monthseniority.Wehadafriendshipthatlastednearlyseventy-fiveyears....WebothaHendedGarvanzaGrammarSchoolandbothweremembersoftheWesternRangersandtheTrailfinders,ledbyHarryC.JamesandCarlSharsmith.DickandImadetripstogetheronfootandbybicycletothepre-freewayArroyoSeco,thenawildernessofjungle,streamsandlakestohuntfor“waterdogs”(salamanders),

At left: High camp, Sierra Club Bulletin 1927.

Below: Typical contents of a Sierra Club Bulletin during Francis Farquhar’s editorship.

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ItwastheSierraClubHighTrips(HT)thatledtotheintersecOonofthelivesofGlenDawsonandJulesEichorn.Glen’sfirsttripwaswithhisdadin1926,whichwentfarafieldto

YellowstoneNaOonalPark.AsGlenwasonlyfourteen,hewaslargelyleainthecareoftheelderlynaturalistVernonBailey,helpingtotrapmiceandchipmunks.Hisdad,meanwhile,waspartofapartyoffivethatNormanClydedaringlymanagedtoputatoptheGrandTeton.Ernest’s1927SCBtaletellsofbeingonathinledgewiththeonlyopOononwardbeingashortbutnearverOcalcrackwithaOnystreamtricklingdown:

Clydetrieditfirstandfailed.ThenIclimbedonhisshouldersandtriedit,butlookingdownfromthisuncertainperch,whereaslipmighthavebeenfatal,Irememberedmywifeandfourchildrenanddecidednottoriskit.OnlyforClydeitislikelythatatthispointwewouldhaveturnedback;butatthiscri/caljuncturehemadealiHlejump,pulledhimselfup,andgainedthecrackabove,geWngsoakedbytheicystreamontheway.

frogsandsnakes.AttheArroyoSecoRecrea/onCenterwetookclassesintumblinginwhichDickexcelledandclassesinplayingtheharmonica.ForyearsDickentertainedusatcampfiresplayingtheharmonica.Weborrowedmymother’sOverlandandthetwoofus,andsome/meswithDick’ssisterRachel(“Sis”),tooktripstotheseashore,mountainsanddeserts.IwenttoFranklinandLosAngelesHighSchoolsandDicktoPolytechnicHighSchoolwherehewasonthegymteam.Hedevelopedgreatstrengthinhisarms,whichhelpedinrockclimbing.

1926

ThisyearJulesEichorn’spianoteacher,AnselAdams(twenty-five),convincedhisparentstoallowtheladtocomealongonthatsummer’sHT.Among

othertalents,AnselheadedtheconsiderabletriplogisOcs.Glenandhisdadwerealsoonthetrip.However,thefiaeen-year-oldboyswouldhaveonlymetcasually,aseachdidmostofhisclimbingwithdifferentleaders.TheydidbothparOcipateinalargepartytoppingMt.Kaweah.Glen’sclimbingjournalhasthisrecord:

1927

TableMountain,13,646––adifficultclimb.WewentupthenorthsidefromheadwatersofKern.Wewentupasteepsnowchimney.Verycoldandrainy.NormanClydeledthepartyofseven.Largecairnontop.SofarasIknow,wearethesecondtoclimbthepeak.[PerR.J.Secor’sHighSierraguide,thisNECouloirrouteisrated4thclass.]...TheMilestone,13,643––averyspectacularpeakwhichcanberecognizedformilesabout.Looksharderthanitis.PreHysteepthelastpart.Wonderfulview.WewentupfromtheKernKaweahside.

Neitherboywasonthisyear’sHT,whichwenttoJasperandRobsonParksinCanada.In1905ErnesthadestablishedDawson’sBookShopin

downtownLosAngeles.Glenjoinedhisdadin1928onabook-buyingtriptoEurope.Perhapspartlyinlieuofmissingthatsummer’sHT,fatherandsonengagedSwissguides,wholedthemtothesummitsoftheJungfrau(13,642’)andtheMa^erhorn(14,692’).TheelderDawsonpennedthishighadventureinthesubsequentSCB(2/29):

Glennotedinhisjournal:“Itcostusabout$50eachtomaketheclimbbutitwaswellworthit.”Letmenotethat,perGoogle,$50thenwouldbeworth$690today––andI’mpre^ysureGlenwouldsOllsay,“Itwaswellworthit!”

1928

Ihadreadofthis[MaHerhorn]climbandexpectedas/ffbitofwork,butIfanciedthatthenarra/veswereoverdrawnandthatforonewithSierraClubtraining,itwouldbenospecialstunt.Butthedifficultrockwork,theslipperyprecipices,theknife-edgeswithawfuldropsoneitherside,thehand-over-handclimbingofropeswhenfingerswereallbutfrozen,andtheaddeddangerfromfallingrocksconvincedusthatitwas“uptothebrag.”Thetriumphmorethanmatchedtheeffort.

Above: The Grand Teton from the east (Bill Oliver Collection).

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GlenandJulesbothparOcipatedinthe1929HTtothecentralSierra.AsErnestwasnotalong,GlenwasunderthecareoftheverycompetentmountaineerBillHorsfall.Withanotheryoungmanthetwomadethe

IamgratefultoGwenRinehart,DickJones’sdaughter,forprovidingsomequotaOonsfromDick’s1929highschooljournal.

Shenoted,“Ithinkmydadhadalessthanhappyhomelife,andGlenandhisfamilyweresowonderfultohimandfromthemhesawwhatlifecouldbelike.”Herearetwoentriesfromthejournal:

1929

secondascentofClydeMinaret,firsttoppedbyClydetheyearbefore.Itremainedunclearwhichwashigher:ClydeorMichaelMinaret.ThetrioalsotoppedMt.HumphreysandMt.Abbot.Separately,JuleswasabletojoinclimbsofMt.Ri^erandMt.Lyell.Bothboys,however,wereinagroupthatclimbedSevenGables.Enough!Sensingtheirkindred,intrepidspirits,atthe

endoftheHighTriptheboysagreedthatthey’dteam-upthenextsummer.

Feb.24,Sunday––Glen,Fern[Glen’ssister],SisandIwenttochurchandthentoSantaMonicabeach.GlenandItookpicturesofseagullsandpelicans....Idon’tknowhowIwilleverrepayGlenforthegood/mesIenjoybeingwithhim.

March9,Saturday––WorkedatDawson’sBookShopallday.Enjoyeditverymuch.We[thefourabove]madecandyandicecream.Weboysgotdinnerforthegirls....Oh!Thesedaysarewonderful!MayIhaveGlen’sfriendshipforever.

Above left: Glen Dawson’s shot of Ansel Adams on the 1929 High Trip. Right: An Ansel Adams shot of Glen Dawson age 17 during the 1929 High Trip. Below: A page from Glen Dawson’s 1929 Climbing Journal, regarding his High Trip climb of Clyde Minaret (all images Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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AllofeighteennowfortheHT,GlenandJulesnolongerneededchaperones.OaenaccompaniedbyJohnOlmsted,afewyearsolder,theywouldheadoutontwo-to-three-

dayknapsacktripsontheirown.Oneauspiciousdaythey

discoveredalonelymanilaclimbingropeinthecommissary.TheyaskedWillColby,whohadheadedthefirsttwenty-eightHTs,iftheycouldborrowit.It’suncleariftheymenOonedtheirintenttoa^emptaclimbofDevilsCrags,firsttoppedbyCharlesMichaelsoloin1913andnotsuccessfullysince.Althoughhe“wasn’ttooenthusiasOc,”Colby“reluctantly”gavepermission––and,astheysay,therestishistory.Theywouldneveragainhavetoasktoborrowarope.GlenwouldlaterdescribetheirsuccessfulascentofthehighestDevilsCragintheSCB’sMountaineeringNotes(2/31):“Threeboysnotyetofagewereveryhappy.”Indeed,GlenwouldbetheeditoroftheNotesforfiveconsecuOveyears.ThethreeladsalsoachievedtheintrepidfirsttraversefromMt.SilltoNorthPalisade,bothFourteeners.ItwasnooverstatementforColbytowriteofthisOuOng:“Someyouthfulenthusiasts,includingGlenDawson,JulesEichornandJohnOlmsted,swarmedovereverythingthatlookedformidableinthewayofamountainpeak.”

ThiswouldbeamorefantasOcyearyetfortheGlen/Julesduo,oaenjoinedontheHTbyGlen’sL.A.friendWalter“Bubs”Brem.GlenhadjustgraduatedfromLos

AngelesHighSchool,primedtostartatUCLAinthefallasahistorymajor.I’llmenOonjusttwoespeciallynotableclimbs:(1)OurduomadethefirstascentoftheprominentslimpinnaclenearthesummitofCathedralPeak,whichwaslaternamedEichornPinnacle;(2)JoinedbyBubs,theyalsoachievedthefirsttraversefromMichaelMinarettoClydeMinaret,

1930

1931

Above: John Olmsted (left) and Jules Eichorn (right) on summit ridge of Devils Crags, July 23, 1930.

Right: Bubs Brem and Jules Eichorn atop Michael Minaret, en route to Clyde Minaret on left, 1931 (Photos by Glen Dawson, Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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intheprocessmakingthefirstascentof“ThirdMinaret”midway,whichlaterwasnamedEichornMinaret.Usingalevelingtool,GlenfinallyestablishedthatClydeisthehighestoftheMinarets(12,264’),followedbyMichaelandEichorn.

TheHTendedinearlyAugust.Theclimbingforaselectfew,however,includingGlenandJules,justgotevenmore“upliaing.”RespondingtotheinvitaOonofFrancisFarquhar,RobertUnderhillhadarrivedtoprovideinstrucOoninproperbelayedclimbingandtheuseofpitons.TheHarvardphilosophyinstructor,thetopAmericanalpinistofhisday,waskeentovisittheSierraNevadaaaeraspectacularseasonintheTetons.TheFebruary1931SCBincludedatwenty-four-pagearOclebyUnderhillonropemanagement.

Aselectclassofeight“students”––includingGlen,Jules,andNormanClyde––headedtothePalisades.Foropeners,theymadethefirsttraversefromNorthPalisadetothethinspireofStarlightPeak,thela^er’ssecondascent.GlenandJuleswithUnderhillandClydethenputupanewrouteonTempleCrag.TwodayslaterthesefourplusBestorRobinsonandtwoothersachievedthefirstascentofThunderboltPeak(thelastCaliforniaFourteenertobetopped).Itwasnamedfortheviolentstormthatengulfedthemonthesummit.OnlyGlenandJulesactuallymountedthetechnicalsummit

block––anelectrifyingfeatthatalmostshort-circuitedtheirbuddingclimbingcareers.

OnAugust10th,thedaybeforetheirTempleCragclimb,Glenpennedale^ertohisparents:

Twodaysaaertheir“Tbolt”success,aremnantoffivesupportedbymuleswastrekkinguptheMt.WhitneyTrailfromLonePine.Underhillwroteuptheirsuccessfulascentof

Above: The “Palisades Climbing School,” August 1931. L-R, standing: Francis Farquhar, Bestor Robinson, Glen Dawson, Neill Wilson, and Lewis Clark. Kneeling: Robert Underhill, Norman Clyde, Jules Eichorn & Elmer Collett. At right: Jules Eichorn (left) and Robert Underhill atop Starlight Peak (~14,200’), August 9, 1931 (Photo by Glen Dawson; both images Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

DearFather&Mother:thetripsofarhasbeenkeen.YesterdayweclimbedNorthPalisadefromthis[north]sideandalsoclimbedthesecondhighestsummit[laternamedStarlight].AmersomeofthemgobacktoSanFranciscoImaygetachancetogodowntoMt.Whitney....Ihaveanunusualopportunity,beingabletoclimbwithsuchmenasClydeandUnderhill.IamlearningagreatdealandImaynothavesuchachanceagainforalong/me.IcanclimbaswellasthebestofthembutIneedmoreexperiencetoequaltheirsinleadingability....Lotsoflove,Glen

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thispeak’seastfaceforthesubsequentSCB(2/32),andClydeforTouringTopics(12/31).UnderhillwrotethatastheyveereduptheNorthForkofLonePineCreek:

Thenextmorning,August16th,Farquhar,beingbyfarthelesserclimber,chosetoascendWhitneybytheMountaineer’sRouteonitsnorthside,hopingthey’dmeetuponthesummit.Theropedclimbingbeganat10:00,GlenwithUnderhillfollowedbyJuleswithClyde.Althoughlargelydirectedbytheirelders,theboysledthroughoutexceptUnderhillfrontedtheshortFreshAirTraverse,themostexposedpieceoftheclimbandwhereapitonmayhavebeenused.At12:45theywereshakinghandswithFarquharonthesummit,aremarkablyfastOmeeventoday.TheirspeedwaslargelydrivenbynotwanOngtoendureabivouachighupthewall.InconcludingUnderhillwrote:“Thebeautyoftheclimbingenerallieschieflyinitsunexpectedpossibility,uptheapparentprecipice,andintheinOmatecontactitaffordswiththefeaturesthatlendMt.Whitneyitsrealimpressiveness.”

OverthesubsequentLaborDayweekend,GlenwasjoinedbyhischildhoodpalDickJonesplusBubsBreminthefirstdescentoftheEastFaceroute.Nearlyseventy-fiveyearslaterjournalistJordanRanepennedanarOcleintheLosAngelesTimes(3/8/05)aboutGlen’srecollecOonoftheEastFaceclimb,quoOngGlen:“I’veclimbedinmanypartsoftheworldandpublishedover300books.Butofallthethingsofmy

Relievingthepacktrainofitsload,weshoulderedoutrageouslyheavyknapsacks(Clyde’sbeinganespeciallypicturesqueenormityofskyscraperarchitecture)....Ourpartyhadbeengraduallydecreasinginsizeaswemovedsouthwardtomoreandmoreambi/ousobjec/ves.Wehadbegun,mostofus,upintheYosemiteaspartoftheSierraClubOu/ngof1931.Atthecloseofthattrip,nine,underthemanagementofFrancisFarquharandtheinvaluablecounselorshipofNormanClyde,hadmoveddowntotheregionoftheNorthPalisadewherewehadculledaliHlebouquetofnewclimbsinspiteoffourdays(believeitoftheSierraornot!)ofbadweather.Shimingsouthwardagainforourculmina/ngeffort,directeduponMt.Whitney,wefinallyfoundourselvesaliHleremnantoffive....Theothertwomembersofthegroup––JulesEichorn,ofSanFrancisco,andGlenDawson,ofLosAngeles,youngnatural-bornrockclimbersofthefirstwater––hadneverseenthemountain;butneitherhadtheyseenanyupanddowntheSierrathattheycouldnotclimb,andtheywereallenthusiasm.[Juleshadpreviouslyclimbedthepeakfromthewestonthe1927HT.]

Atop Mt. Whitney after the first ascent of its East Face Route, August 16, 1931. L-R: Glen Dawson, Robert Underhill, Jules Eichorn and Norman Clyde. (Photo by Francis Farquhar, Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives)

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life,thatdayinAugustin1931––well,IsOllgetagooddealofpleasureoutofit.”

MomentarilyforsakingthehighSierra,letusdiverttoBestorRobinson’sschemetomakethe“firstascent”ofElPicachodelDiablo,atabout10,155’,thehighpointofBajaCalifornia.

RobinsoncouldnotgetJulesEichorn,buthesucceededinrecruiOngNormanClydeplusastrongLosAngelesconOngentofGlen,DickJones,BubsBrem,andNateClark.TheiradventurewasdetailedbyRobinsoninthesubsequentSCB(2/33).Theirexpecteddayhikefrombasecampturnedintoathree-dayepic,astheyencounterednumerousdeepnotchesalongthemeanderingridgeleadingtothetwinsummitsofElPicacho.(Itwouldbeseveralmonthsbeforetheylearnedthataprospectorhadachievedthesummitalonein1911,approachingfromthelesstechnicaleastside.)

Glen,Jules,andNormanClydeledvariousnotableSierraclimbsonthe1932HighTrip,butforbrevityI’llnotdetailanyhere.Noteworthy,however,isthatquiteafewTrippersdepartedtheirCrabtreeMeadowssiteaaercampfireonenighttoseekoutMt.Whitneywiththepromiseofagloriousdesertsunrise.Atotalof153toppedoutthatmorning(notaClubrecord),somenodoubttherebyearningtheSierraClub’scovetedcerOficatefor

havingclimbedfivepeaksanywhereintheworldabove14,000’.

(Thisyear’sHighTripwasthefirstinwhichErnestDawsonwasaccompaniedbyallfourofhisoffspring.Glen’ssisterFernhadparOcipatedintheprevioustwo,butthiswasthefirstOmefor

youngersisterJuneandforMuir,nineyearsbehindhisbrother.)GlenandJulesreunitedforthisyear’sHT,andwe’llfocushereontheirmajorproject.Undertheirkeyleadership,considerablea^enOonwasfocusedagainontheDevilsCrags,andGlenwroteaboutitinthesubsequentSCB(6/34),recallingfirsttheirearlierclimb:

TheircarefulscruOnyactuallyresultedinfiaeenclimberssummiOngwithinashortOme:fourparOesbythreeroutes,collecOvelycounOngasthethirdascent.ThenextdayGlen,Jules,andTedWallerreturnedandmadethefirstascentofthenexttwohighestCrags,andthentheweathertookabadturn.Theydescendedachimneybetween#1and#2:

1932 1933

TheDevilsCragslookeddifficult.Theylookedevenmoredifficultthanwehadan/cipated,asthreeofus,JulesEichorn,JohnOlmsted,andIstoodontheridgenorthofMt.WoodworthonJuly23,1930....Threeyearslater,onJuly25,1933,JulesEichornandIagainviewedthepeakwithsomemisgivings.TheDevilsCragslookedasdifficultasever,andthis/mewehadtenpickedclimbersfromtheSierraClubparty,whomwehadagreedtoleadtothetop.

Atop the south summit of El Picacho del Diablo (north summit in background), June 16, 1932. Rear: Norman Clyde, Nate Clark, and Glen Dawson; front: Dick Jones and Bubs Brem (Photo by Bestor Robinson, Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

Herewetookrefugeunderachockstone,expec/ngthattheshowerwouldbeover,asusual,inafewminutes.Wejokedandtalkedaswaterbegantodripinourshelter.

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In1989Julestoldmethatwhilestuckonthenarrowledgethehippocketsofhisjeanshadfilledwithsandandgravel.MuchlaterinhislifeGlennotedthatheandJuleshadsurvivedtwoharrowingsummitstorms––thisoneonDevilsCragsandtheonetwoyearsearlierwhiletoppingThunderboltPeak.

FollowingtheHighTrip,GlenandJuleswereeachbackhomejustoveraweekbeforegecngthesummonsonAugust14thfromFrancisFarquhartoassistinthesearchforWalter(Pete)Starr,Jr.GlenalsorecruitedDickJones.Withinadaytheboys,NormanClyde,andothersweregatheredatLakeEdiza,siteofPete’scampsite.AlthoughPetewasnotinvolvedwithSierraClubHighTrips,hewasindirectlyknowntomembersbasedonhisnumeroussummitregisterentriesthroughout

theSierra.Normallytravelingfastandsolo,hewas,atagethirty,nowclosetocompleOnghisGuidetotheJohnMuirTrailandtheHighSierraRegion.

TheclimbingteamofGlen,Jules,andDick––oneoffourparOes––focusedtheirsearchonthenearbyMinarets.TheyendedupclimbingbothMichaelandEichornMinarets,andintheirsearchprocesstheyalsomadethefirstascentof“SixthMinaret,”whichbecameDawsonMinaret,theonlySierrasummitbearingGlen’sname,althoughhepairedwithJulesinclimbingthetwofeaturesnamedforEichorn.(DawsonPeak,justnorthofMt.SanAntonio[akaMt.Baldy]intheSanGabrielMountainsaboveLosAngeles,wasnamedforErnestDawsonin1920.Itisamongthe279southernCaliforniapeaksontheSierraClub’sHundredPeaksSecOonlist.)Thefruitlesssearchendedwithinafewdays.NormanClydestayedbehindandfoundStarr’sbodyaweeklater,highonaMichaelMinaretledge.

AlthoughneitherwouldhaveimagineditattheOme,thesearchforPeteStarrwouldbethelastOmethatGlenandJules,thentwenty-one,eversharedarope.TheywouldnotbeonanotherHighTriptogether,andduringlaterjointLosAngeles/SanFranciscoRockClimbingSecOontripstoYosemiteValley,theboyswouldbeleadingwiththeirowngroups.Howappropriate,then,thatDickJoneshadsharedtheropewiththem,ashewouldbecomeGlen’snewfavoritepartner.Ofcourse,JulesandGlenremaineddearlifelongfriends,havingsharedauniquehighSierralegacywhilephenomenallyteamedoverfourconsecuOveHighTrips(1930-33).Iamnotcertain,butpossiblythelastOmetheyweretogetherwasatagrandHighTripReunioninTuolumneMeadows,September1992,boththeneighty.IncorrespondencewithmeGlennoted:“OnthattripJulesandI

Theraincameharderthanever.Suddenly,withagreatrushingsound,thesteepchimneybecamefilledwithatorrent.Dirtywater,gravel,andevenlargerocks,camedowninaseriesofwaterfalls.Weleapedoutfromunderthechockstone,Julestooneside,TedandItotheother.Inafewmomentsthewaterhadincreasedfromatrickle,whichwecouldcatchinourcupstoatorrentofalarmingpropor/ons.Juleshadgoneoutontoanarrowledge,wherehewassoondrenchedbywater,andwhatwasmoreserious,wasexposedtofallingrocks.Theroarofwater,thelightningandthunder,andthecrashingofavalancheswerestupendous,butnotverypleasanttousatthe/me.Soakedwithrainandspray,weweresocoldthatweshookallovereveryfewminutes....TheDevilsCragsseemedtobecomingapart.ForanhourJuleswasforcedtostayinanextremelyprecariousposi/ononanarrowledge,exposedtofallingrocksandthreatenedwithbeingsweptoffbytheincreasingforceofthewater.Atlastthestormabated,andTedwasabletopassaropetoJulesandassisthimacrosstooursideofthechimney.Slowlywemadeourwaydownafewhundredfeetofdifficultwetrock.Itwasduskbeforewegotto/mberandachancetodryout.

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walkedonglacialpolishatthebaseofLembertDomeandrecalledsomeofourclimbs.”

Indeclininghealthateighty-eight,JulespassedawayathomeonFebruary15,2000.AmonthlaterGlenwroteofhisfirstpartner:“JuleswastallerthanIam,expertinmusic,andexpertincampcookery.Weconsideredourselvesco-leaders,usuallyclimbingwithoneortwoothersbutsomeOmesjustthetwoofus.Juleswasalwaysagentleman,kindandconsiderate.Heclimbedwiththesameverveasheplayedthepiano.”

TheSierraClub’sfirstacOvitysecOonwastheSanFranciscoBayChapter’sRockClimbingSecOon(RCS),charteredinNovember1932withDickLeonardaschairandJulesEichornonthemanagementcommi^ee.TheSouthernCaliforniaChapterwasnotfarbehind.ItsRCSwasiniOallyprecededbythenewJuniorSecOon.GlenledtheirfirstrockclimbingsessiononNovember5,1933,atEagleRock,assistedbyDickJones.InearlyDecembertheclimberswenttoPicachoPk(1920’),northofYumaandneartheColoradoRiver.(Itiscommonlyknownas“Li^lePicacho”bytheDesertPeaksSecOon,byfarthelowestpeakonitslistofninety-ninesouthwestdesertsummitsandarguablythemosttechnical.)GlenandJohnPoindexterputupanewroutealongamulO-pitchcrackclimbtothesummitridge.

InSeptember1934,withGlen’sencouragement,ArtJohnsongotchapterapprovalfortheformalcreaOonoftheLosAngelesRCS, takingoverthisacOvityfromtheJuniorSecOon.Glenwasafoundingmemberofthemanagementcommi^ee.

SomewhatconcurrentwiththeriseoftheLosAngelesRCSwasthedevelopmentofwhatwouldbecomethechapter’sSkiMountaineeringSecOon(SMS)inSeptember1935.ThisenOtywasbrieflyprecededbytheSkiMountaineersofCalifornia,organizedinNovember1934byWaltMosauer,aUCLAprofessorandskicoach.Theoriginalthirteenmembers,mostlyfromtheBruinskiteam,includedGlenandDickJones,whobecamequiteavidpracOOonersofthiswintermountainacOvity.

Note:basedontheirnotableclimbingachievements,in1933bothGlenandJulesbecamemembersoftheAmericanAlpineClub(AAC),attwenty-onelikelyamongtheyoungest.FrancisFarquhar“proposed”Glen,andWillColbysecondedthenominaOon.(JohnMuirwasafoundingmemberoftheAACin1902andheservedasitssecondpresident.)

(Asanaside,thecosttoparOcipateinthe1934HighTripwas$70forthefourweeksor$40foreitherhalf.Allpersonalgeartobecarriedbymule,includingbedding,waterproofgroundclothandpossiblyatent,hadtofitina

cylindricalcanvasbagnottoexceedthreefeetinlengthorweighmorethanthirty-fivepounds.)TheHighTripthisyearwasabsentJules,anditwouldturnouttobeGlenDawson’slast––andhemade

themostofit,oaenteamedwithTedWallerandJackRiegelhuth.Forbrevity’ssake,however,Iwon’tdwelluponit,simplynoOng,forexample,thatGlenandJackmadethesecondascentofEichornPinnacle.FollowingtheHighTrip,GlenpartneredwithfellowTripperTonyChorlton,oftheNewZealandAlpineClub,inacircuitthat

1934

Top, left to right: Glen Dawson, Jack Riegelhuth, and Ted Waller on the 1934 High Trip. Bottom: Glen Dawson looking at south wall of Marmolata, which he climbed, August 1935. At 10,968’, it is the highest peak in the Dolomites section of the Alps (Both images Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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garneredmanynorthwestU.S.summitsincludingMt.ShastaandMt.Rainier,plusMt.HungabeeandMt.TempleinBanffNaOonalPark.

ShortlyaaerhisUCLAgraduaOoninJune,Glensetoffonwhatwouldbeafourteen-montharound-the-globetrip.ItofferedsplendidopportuniOestoadvancehisskillsasbothabookmanandaclimber.GlendetailedhisforeignclimbingadventuresinSCBarOcles.Befriendingyoungguides,his

exploitsbeganintheAlpswithfiveweeksspentclimbingintheWe^ersteinandtheDolomites,andincludedhigh-levelclimbingonwallsoftheMustersteinandMarmolada.Henotedthatmanyoftheirroutes“wereprobablyfirstascentsbyanAmerican.”

The1935HighTripmanagedwithoutGlen,buttheDawsonfamilywaswellrepresentedbyErnest,Fern,andMuir,plusDickJonesonwhatwouldbehisonlyHighTrip.

InaddiOontoOmeinGermany,Austria,andSwitzerland,thisyearGlenalsotookupclimbinginNorthWales(GreatBritain),theCaucasus(SovietUnion),andtheJapaneseAlps.HewaitedaweekbelowMt.Elbrus(18,510’),the

highestpeakinEurope,withoutgecngsuitableweathercondiOonsforana^empt.HealsotraversedFujiyamainJapan,noOngthatontheSundayfollowinghisascent11,300personswereontopinatwenty-four-hourperiod.Hewrote,“Aaerhavingclimbedinadozendifferentcountries,IcanagreewithJohnMuirandClarenceKingthatourownHighSierraisthefinestandmostfriendlyofall.”

GlenwasbackhomeinLosAngelesbymid-August––inOmetojointheLaborDayRCStriptotheMt.Whitneyarea.InaddiOontoacoupleofnearbyfirstascents,GlenteamedwithDickJonesandArtJohnsonina^empOnganew,moredirectrouteupthebroadeastfaceofWhitney.However,theydidn’tgetveryfar,chieflybecauseoffreshsnow.Glenhadlonginglyeyedthisalternatemoredirectlinein1931whenUnderhillandClydewerestudyingthefacethe

daybeforetheirfirstascentwithJulesEichorn.Hewouldbeback!

(Asanaside:inAprilGlenwaselectedtotheSierraClub’sboardofdirectors,which

coincidedwithhisfather’ssteppingdown.Glen’sservicewouldconOnueunOl1951,althoughhewasnotacOveduringhisArmyserviceinWorldWarII.)

ThiswouldprovetobeaphenomenalyearfortheteamofGlenDawsonandDickJones.OvertheMemorialDayweekendthejointLosAngelesandSanFranciscoRCSconOngentsswarmedalloverYosemiteValley.Glen,DickJones,andBillRicemadetheirfirstclimbofHigherCathedralSpire.(Aaertwounsuccessfula^emptsin1933,JulesEichorn,DickLeonard,andBestorRobinsonfinallytoppedHigherCathedralSpireinApril1934.Intheendtheywereforcedtoemploypitonsfor“directaid”[hangingorstandingonthepiton]forthefirstOmeintheValley.)

TheLosAngelesRCSwasbackintheMt.WhitneyareaoverthefollowingLaborDayweekend.Withbe^ercondiOonsthanthepreviousyear,GlenandDickJones,joinedbyMuirDawson,HowardKoster,andBobBrinton,againa^emptedtheir“SunshineRoute”ontheeastbu^ressofWhitney(alsoknownastheSunshine-PeeweeRoute).OnSeptember5ththeywereset,andthetworopeteamsmadeituptheirnewEastBu^ressrouteinthreeandone-halfhours.Fourpitonshadbeenplacedforsafety(notdirectaid).Glenwroteinhis4/38SCBstory:“TheEastBu^ressisslightlymoredifficultthantheusualEastFaceroute;bothareinteresOngroutesforexperiencedclimbers.”

Ontheoccasionofthe70thanniversaryofthisclimbin2007,Glenwrotethefollowingresponsetomyquery:

1935

1936

Below: High Trip Bandana Day, 1935, left to right: Frank (Tug) Richardson, Fern Dawson, Muir Dawson, and Dick Jones (Glen Dawson Collection).

1937

In1931itwasthevisionofFrancisFarquhartoclimbtheeastfaceofWhitney.Heselectedthepar/cipants.TherealleaderswereRobertUnderhillandNormanClyde.JulesandIdidwhatweweretold.In

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BobBrintonledthefirstropeteamwithGlen.Dependingontheguide,theEastFaceisnowgenerallyratedat5.4-5.6andtheEastBu^ressat5.6-5.8.

(Preliminarysidenote:“Discovered”byRCSerJimSmith,TahquitzisalargegraniteformaOonabovethetownofIdyllwildintheSanJacintoMountains.HeputupthefirstrouteonAug.22,1936––theTrough,nowratedat5.0.ItbecameafavoriteplaygroundoftheLosAngelesRCSanditremainsaworld-classclimbingmecca.)

JustamonthaaertheirEastBu^resssuccess,onOctober3rd,GlenandDickJonesmadeaspecialeffortonafrighxulTahquitzroutetopushithigherthananypreviousa^empt––andtheycompletedit.Bookseller’sRoute,nowmorecommonlycalledMechanic’sRoute,tooksixteenpitonswithDickinthelead,thoughwithsOllaverylongrunoutpitch.Ina1990interviewwithme,Dicknotedthathe“breezedupit,”andthathewas“reallyfeelinggoodthatday.”AtthetopGlenexclaimed:“Wow,whatalead!”FollowingthesecondascentbyJohnMendenhallandCarlJensen,in1939RuthMendenhallwrotetoafriendabouttheclimb:“Itissoghastly,andsou^erlyunprotected,thatthereisnojusOficaOontoit,anditwillprobablyneverbeclimbedagain”(WomanontheRocks–theMountaineeringLeHersofRuthDyarMendenhall,editedbyValerieMendenhallCohen,2007).Manyyearsinthefuturethisroutewouldbehailedasthefirst5.8climbinNorthAmerica.ItwasGlen’sonlyTahquitzfirstascent.

Theirwanderlustevidentlynotyetsated,laterthatsamemonthGlenandDickwereseekingnewchallengesinZionNaOonalPark.AlongwithRCSersHomerFullerandWaylandGilbert,theymadethethirdascentoftheGreatWhiteThrone––butthefirstthatdidnotrequireaParkrescue.TheythenstumbleduponthefactthattheEastTemplehadneverbeenclimbed,thustheirnewtarget.OnOctober26thGlenandDickeachledaropeoftwo.Glenreportedinthe4/38SCB:“NotunOlweusedathree-manstandwereweabletounropeonthepleasantforestedsummitarea.The1100feetof

elevaOonhadtakenfiveandone-halfhoursofunhurriedclimbing,muchofitexceedinglydifficult.”Theybuiltabonfiretosignalsuccesstotheircompanionbelowandtokeepwarmfortheirtopsidebivouac.GlenconOnued:

Nowpre^ymuchalostart,“backintheday”courte-échelle(shortladder)wasapracOcedclimbingtechnique.Thoughathree-manstandwouldbequiteastretch,itwasnotconsideredcheaOng.

Fromthevantagepointofsixty-fiveyearslater,incorrespondencetoBobandMaureenCatesinFebruary2002,GlenDawsonwrote:“Theyear1937wasinmanywaystheapexofmy

Inthemorningwewalkedaroundtherimwatchingthesunrisebringcolortothemazeofcanyonsandwalls....Althoughwehadstartedthepreviousmorningjusttoexploretheapproaches,wehadstayedthirtyhours....Newandunusualascentss/llabound,andtoanyonefamiliarwithYosemiteorTahquitzclimbing,wecanrecommendZionNa/onalParkforanidealvaca/on.

1937itwasmyideatoclimbtheEastBuHress.Iwastheleaderandselectedthepar/cipants,althoughitwasacoopera/veleadership.TheEastFaceisabigundefinedwallwithlotsoflooserock.TheEastBuHressisaclearerroutewithmostlysolidrock.Itismyfavoriteclimbbut,sofarasInowremember,Imadeitjustonce.

climbingcareer––withthefirstascentoftheEastBu^ressofMt.Whitney,andclimbsinZionNaOonalParkoftheGreatWhiteThroneandthefirstascentoftheEastTemple,andinYosemiteValleytheHigherCathedralSpire.”Note:GlensomehowoverlookedincludingheretheMechanic’sRoute!InallfiveoftheseclimbshewaspairedwithDickJones,hischerishedboyhoodfriendsincegrammarschooldays.(Dickpassedonatageeighty-twoonJune16,1995.)

ThoughperhapspastGlen’s“apex,”1938featuredfurthermajoradventures.Butfirst––January29thmarkedtheappearanceofissue#1

oftheMugelnoos–“PublishedbyandfortheSkiMountaineeringSecOonoftheSierraClub,editedbyAgentforProgramsandPropaganda[GlenDawson];CirculaOonManagerDickJones.”ProducedoutofDawson’sBookShop,evidentlyitwasaninstantsuccessas#2appearedjustfourdayslater.Beforelongissuessteadilycameoutattwo-weekintervals,andwithintwomonthsithadbecomethejointpublicaOonoftheSMSandRCS,reflecOngthehugeoverlapintheirmemberships.Asof#7Glenpassedtheeditorshipto

RuthDyar(whowouldmarryJohnMendenhallinSeptember1939).Ruthshepherdedthenewsle^erforfortyyears.The“Noos”conOnuestobepublishedintermi^entlybytheSMS.Thelatestissue,#815,however,waslabeled“Spring–Summer–Fall2012.”ItfocusedoncongratulaOngGlenonhisgrand100thbirthdaycelebraOon.(TheRCSisnolongerextant,itsdemiserelatedtoinsuranceissues.ItslegacydirectlyconOnues,however,astheSouthernCaliforniaMountaineersAssociaOon{SCMA},foundedin1986.)

ThefirstweekofAprilfoundafewtoughSMSersonanadventurethatwouldmakeheadlinesintheLosAngelesTimes,5/22/38:

Theythendouble-backedtoWhitneyPortal,havingestablishedtheW-RPassasawintertrans-Sierraroute.

TheannualjointLosAngeles/SanFranciscoRCSMemorialDayweekendtriptoYosemiteValleyfoundbothGlenandJulesEichornleadingroutes,thoughnottogether.GlenmadehisfirstclimbofLowerCathedralSpire.HeandbrotherMuiralsoledrepeatedascentsoftheWashingtonColumntoLunchLedgeforthetrainingofthoselessexperienced.Justafew

dayslaterGlenwasenroutebacktoZion,thisOmeaccompaniedbyBillRiceandBobBrinton.ThetriosucceededinclaimingthefirstascentoftheSenOnel.Bymid-AugustGlenhadassembledastrongteamforthefirstLosAngelesRCSforayintoalpineCanada.Theaccountof

14SierraEchoGlenDawsonMemorialSupplement

Above: Glen Dawson on first ascent of the Sentinel in Zion, June 5, 1938. Below: Muir Dawson stares across to Snowpatch Spire from summit of Bugaboo Spire, 1938 (Glen Dawson Collection).

1938

Perfectlycondi/onedfortheirarduousundertaking,fiveSo.CaliforniamembersoftheSkiMountaineeringSec/onoftheSierraClubrecentlycompletedawinterskitripfromWhitneyPortaltotheUpperKernCanyoninSequoiaNPover13,300m.Whitney-RussellPass....Theepoch-makingpartyconsistedofHowardKoster,DickJones,PhilipFaulconer,GlenDawsonandRobertBrinton.

15 SierraEchoGlenDawsonMemorialSupplement

theirexpediOonappearedasafeaturedarOcleinthe6/39SCBbySpencerAusOn,“ClimbingintheBugaboos.”TheotherteammemberswereMuirDawson,BobBrinton,HowardGates,andHomerFuller.WithconsiderableexposureandgreatboldnesstheysucceededinthethirdascentofBugabooSpire(10,250’),firsttoppedbyConradKainin1916andwhichherankedashismostdifficultCanadianclimb.(Thepeakhastwinsummits,bothaboutthesameheightaccordingtoKain.Facedwiththreateningweather,theRCSteamdidnotconOnuetotheothersummit,whichisnowknowntobethehigher.)

1939-40wasaOmeformanyRCSfolkstogetseriousabout“se^lingdown.”DickJoneswedAdrienneApplewhiteonAugust18,1939;thebestmanwasGlen.ThenonNovember15,1940,GlenOedthe

knotwithMaryHelenJohnston;bestmanwashisbrotherMuir.MaryHelenhadbeenacOvewiththeSMSforacoupleofyears,andshesoonjoinedtheRCS.Theirunion,whichproducedason,twodaughters,sevengrandkidsand,sofar,ninegreatgrandkids,lastedsixty-twoyears,unOlMaryHelen’spassinginNovember2002ateighty-six.

AnotherkeyfactorleadingtoGlenandDick’ssteppingbackfromclimbingwasthelossoftheirdearfriendBillRiceinaclimbingaccidentontheGrandTetoninJune1942.In1990DickJonestoldmethatheandGlencriedforaweek

followingthetragedy,andthatit“hadtakenthefunoutofclimbing.”

WorldWarII,ofcourse,sca^eredSierraClubclimbersfarandwide:somelikeDickworkinginarmamentsproducOon,andsomelikeGlenservinginthearmedforces.GlenandothersinvolvedwiththeSMStaughtskimountaineeringclassesatBelmontHighSchoolinLosAngeles.ThiswaspartofarecruitmentprogramoftheNaOonalSkiPatrolformountaintroops.Glenprovidedaquicksummaryofhiswarservicetomeinanemailon2/22/08:

1939-40and beyond

Iwasnotdramedun/l1943whenIwas31yearsold.ItookbasictrainingatCampHale[Colorado]andtooktwonotabletrips––aNewYear’sclimbofMt.ElbertandMassive[thetwohighestFourteenersinthestate]andtheTrooperTraversefromnearLeadvilletoAspen.Itaughtskiingtotwoclasses...IbecameaT/5orcorporal.IwassenttoSenecaRockinWestVirginiabut,beforedoinganyteachingofrockclimbing,wastransferredtothe85thMtnInfantry[partofthefamed10thMountainDivision],CampSwim,Texas,whereIwasac/ngsquadleader.JustbeforegoingoverseasIwastransferredtoHeadquartersCompany85thtobecomeaclerktoMajorKober,IntelligenceOfficer.[Thedivision,thoughnotGlendirectly,engagedinheavycombatinnorthernItaly]....IwasonmywaytoJapanwhenthewarended,andIreturnedtomyfamilyandbookselling.

Left: Glen and Mary Helen Dawson camping out circa 1941 (Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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GlenfailedtomenOonsomethingthatwasnotedinthe5/10/45Mugelnoos:“GlenDawsonwasawardedthebronzestarforserviceonMt.Belvedere,Italy.”

ItisOmetoendthispieceonGlenDawson’srenownedclimbingcareer,whenasayouthheteamedfirstwithJulesEichornandlaterwithDickJonesinmanyamazinganddaringclimbingexploitsthatusheredinthemoderneraofthissport.ItwasaOmewhenclimbersworetennisorbasketballshoesandnoharnessesorhelmets,usedstaOcmanilaropes,andyetrompedexuberantlyovermanyformerly“unclimbable”peaks,pinnacles,andwalls.

Initssixty-one-yearhistorytheSierraPeaksSecOonhasawardedonlythreehonorarymemberships,asallowedbyitsbylawswithavoteofthemembership.ThefirstwenttoNormanClyde,presentedbySPSChairJerryKeaOngattheAngelesChapterBanquetin1960.AttheSPSbanquetin1989,ChairBillOliverpresentedhonorarymembershipstoGlenDawsonandJulesEichorn.OnthisoccasionGlen,withsupportfromhisbrotherMuir,gaveamarvelousprogramonearlySierraClubclimbing.AnillnesspreventedJulesfroma^ending,buthespokeviaavideorecording.

Indeed,starOngaroundhislatesevenOesandthenfornearlythirtyyears,Glenpresentedorwasfeaturedinmanyprogramsforclimbingaudiences,includingtheSPSagain,theSCMAandtheSouthernCaliforniaChapteroftheAAC.Hecommonlyintroducedhimselfas“ahistoricalcuriosity,perhapsalivingfossil.”Thisquiet,gentlemanneverboastedofhisexploits,buthewaswellawareoftheirhistoricalsignificance.Hisamazingrecallalongwithhisdryhumorandself-deprecaOngmannerendearedhimtoall.Heknewhehadledablessedlife––bothinhisclimbingandbookmancareersandinhisfamily.

Evertheadventurer,quitelateinlifeGlencompiledalistofalltheoutdoorstairclimbsinthegreater

LosAngelesdowntownareaandthentoppedthem,thoughperhapsnotsigningaregister.Healsosetthegoalofmakingittothesummitofallthedowntownskyscrapers,whichheachievedwithoutabelaythoughneedingspecialpermissionforoneortwo.

At103GlendepartedthisearthlyrealmonMarch22,2016,heaven-boundtorejoinbelovedfamily,friends,andpartners.Althoughtheoldest,heoutlivedhisthreesiblingsaswellasallthecompanionsofhisHighTripsandRCS/SMSyoungmanhood.WecanimaginethatJulesEichornandDickJonesmayhavesavedsome“unclimbable”heavenlyspiresonwhichtoonceagainsharearope.Belayon!

Chair Bill Oliver presenting SPS emblem pin to honorary member Glen Dawson, as witnessed by Dick Jones and Nate Clark at SPS banquet, December 13, 1989 (Photo by Bob Cates, Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

17 SierraEchoGlenDawsonMemorialSupplement

GlenDawsonreceivedmajorrecogniOonsfromtheSierraClub:

• LifeMembership#14,agiaof(laterClubPresident)AureliaHarwood,1921

• FrancisP.FarquharMountaineeringAward,1973• HonorarymembershipintheAngelesChapter’sRock

ClimbingSecOon,1977• HonorarymembershipintheAngelesSierraPeaks

SecOon,1989• WalterStarrAwardforconOnuingservicebya

formerboardmember,2011.IamindebtedtothesemembersoftheAngelesChapter

HistoryCommi^eefortheirkeysupportovermanyyearsinassemblingandprovidingmaterialsusedinthisretrospecOve:GlenDawson,BobCates,andJohnRipley;and

alsotoDennisKruskaforGlen’spoem,amongothercontribuOons.Ihavefeltespeciallygiaedandblessedinmytwenty-seven-yearfriendshipwithGlen,whichhasgreatlyenrichedmylife.

Mysix-partseries,“ATributetotheHonoraryMembersoftheSierraPeaksSecOon:NormanClyde,GlenDawsonandJulesEichorn,”whichranfrom1989to2008intheSPSSierraEcho,isavailablehere:h^ps://sierraclub.org/angeles/sierra-peaks/tribute-series

MichaelRecehascreatedawonderfulwebsite,withmanyphotosshotbyGlenDawsonandLewisClark,thatfocusesonSierraclimbinginthepivotalsummerof1931—h^p://www.thehighsierra.org/mountaineering_summer_1931.htm

MyfinaltributetoSPShonorarymemberJulesEichorn(1912-2000)appearedintheMarch-April2000SierraEcho(Vol.44,#2). 5/23/16

Above, left to right: Glen Dawson, Bill Oliver, and Jules Eichorn at Dawson’s Book Shop, April 20, 1990 (Photo by Muir Dawson. Author’s Collection). Below: Glen Dawson’s tombstone at the Riverside National Cemetery (Keith Dawson Collection).

Below: A generation apart, two legendary climbers: Glen Dawson with Royal Robbins—both Farquhar Mountaineering Award winners—at Angeles Chapter Centennial celebration, July 16, 2011 (Photo by Mary McMannes, Author’s Collection).

Accomplishments and Notes

18SierraEchoGlenDawsonMemorialSupplement

The following pages are bonus photo images not appearing in the original Echo article.

Clockwise from left: The Dawson siblings—c1927. L-R: Muir, June, Fern, and Glen (Unless otherwise stated, all images from Glen Dawson Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives). Glen Dawson—c1931 (age19). Probably at or within a year of high school graduation (Dawson Family Collection). This “broadside” was a souvenir from the celebration of Glen’s ninetieth birthday, June 2002. Glen’s Sierra Club Life Membership—1921. Well before his passing, Glen was the member with the longest tenure (Author’s Collection). Glen atop Dawson Peak—c1928.

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Clockwise from left: Glen’s Climbing Journal entry—climbing around Mt. San Antonio—1929. Practicing the two-man stand technique at Stoney Point. Muir Dawson atop Bill Rice––1937. Three young rock climbers on summit of Tahquitz Rock––June 20, 1940. L-R: Dick Jones, Glen Dawson, unidentified man. Glen rapping at Stoney Point––1937. Glen climbing at Tahquitz—c

20SierraEchoGlenDawsonMemorialSupplement

Clockwise from top left: Jules Eichorn on the 1929 or ‘30 High Trip. Photo by Ansel Adams (David Eichorn Collection). News article on first ascent of Whitney’s East Buttress, September 1937. LA/RCS Palisades Trip, July 3, 1937. L-R: Bob Brinton, Mary Jane Edwards, Dick Jones, Muir Dawson, Jim Smith, and Nelson Nies. Over the 1938 July 4th weekend, Dick Jones led the first ascent of the Swiss Arête on Mt. Sill (Dick Jones Collection, from Gwen Jones Rinehart). Norman Clyde and Glen Dawson sharing the shade of a creosote bush—c1937.

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Background: From news article on SMS team on way to Whitney-Russell Pass. The party included Glen Dawson, Dick Jones, Howard Koster, and Bob Brinton. Foreground from top: Glen and Mary Helen’s complete family. Probably late 1948 or early ’49. Approximate ages: Keith five, Karen three-and-a-half, and Susie under one. There are presently seven grandkids and nine great grandkids (Susie Dawson Parker Collection). From Denver Post article remembering the 10th Mtn Division’s “Trooper Traverse”—winter 1944. Glen was among the Troopers. Glen Dawson’s infantry badge, Bronze Star, and dog tag (Bob Cates Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives). Glen during the “epoch-making” Sierra winter traverse—early April 1938.

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Top left: Pals for life: Dick Jones and Glen Dawson, c1941. Top right: Glen and Muir Dawson at the Angeles Chapter banquet, March 18, 2000 (Author’s Collection). Above, center: Glen with master of ceremonies Doug Mantle and John Robinson at the SPS’s 50th Anniversary Banquet—Oct. 16, 2005 (Bob Cates Collection). At left: Azusa Pacific University bestowed an Honorary Doctorate of Humane Letters on Glen Dawson—September 18, 2009. Among other lifetime achievements, it recognized him as “one of our nation’s top mountain climbers” (Author’s Collection).

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Warmthanksandapprecia0onareextendedtoSierraEchoco-editorsTinaBowmanandBethEpstein.TinaexpertlyeditsallthematerialandBethsuperblydesignsthelayout.Yourauthorisdeeplyindebtedtoboth.Ithasbeenadis0nctpleasureworkingcloselywiththisamazingeditorialteam.

Left: Flyer for Glen Dawson’s 100th Birthday celebration (Author’s Collection). Middle: At Glen’s 100th Birthday celebration. L-R: Glen, wearing his new hat, sister Fern Shochat, cousin Louise Ashcroft, and sister June McKeon (Author’s Collection). Below: Multiple Dawson generations and their families gather for Glen’s 100th birthday, June 2012 (Bob Cates Collection).