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Global market review of denim andjeanswear forecasts to 20182012 edition
Author: Writing Solutions
Published by just-style.com
November 2012
Published by
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Single-user licence editionThis report is provided for individual use only. If you would like to share this report with your colleagues, please
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Table of contentsChapter 1 IntroductionGlobal denim and jeanswear market
Challenges and opportunities
Consumer spending dip
Global cotton woesHistory of denim
Chapter 2 North AmericaUnited States
Canada
Brands
Levi Strauss
VF Corporation
Gap
American Eagle Outfitters
True Religion
Manufacturers
American Cotton Growers (ACG)
International Textile Group
Chapter 3 AsiaJapan
South Korea
China
India
Regional rivals
Manufacturers
Arvind Mills
Aarvee Denim & Exports
Black PeonyHaining Bafang Weaving
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Chapter 2 North AmericaTable 2: Total jeanswear sales in United States and Canada, 2007-2018 (US$bn)
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012F 2013F 2014F 2015F 2016F 2017F 2018F
North
America
Canada
US Source: just-style, industry interviewsMay not sum to total due to roundingThe macroeconomic events of the last four years have created a stagnant retail environment in North America
but things now appear to be looking more positive. Bloomberg reported a xxx% month-on-month increase in
consumer goods purchases in the US for July 2012, citing US Department of Commerce data. Apparel retailers
Gap and TJX, owner of the T.J. Maxx discount clothing chain, were among those posting growth. Gaps sales
rose xx% during the month while Macys, which owns the Macys and Bloomingdales string of department
stores, saw a xxx% increase. However, the US also saw a xxx% increase in unemployment month-on-month in
July to xxx%, according to the countrys Bureau of Labour Statistics, which muddies the waters somewhat. In
terms of jeanswear specifically, we are expecting the North American market to continue its fightback against
recession and rise from US$xxxxbn in 2011 to US$xxxxbn this year before growing steadily to US$xxxxbn by
2018.
Other than through the outlets of dedicated jeanswear brands like Levi Strauss and the VF Corporation-owned
Lee and Wrangler, the majority of jeans in North America are sold through mass-market retailers with a high
street presence such as Gap and American Eagle Outfitters or by large, diversified supermarkets like Walmart.
Big fashion houses like Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, and discount outlets also, sell denim
clothing in their stores and the rest largely originate from up-and-coming designer boutiques.
The last few years have been tough for all clothing companies in the US, especially at the premium end of the
jeans market where we operate. People are thinking twice before treating themselves, understandably, but we are
confident.
Executive, True Religion
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Chapter 3 AsiaTable 4: Total jeanswear sales in Asia by major market, 2007-2018 (US$bn)
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012F 2013F 2014F 2015F 2016F 2017F 2018F
Asia
China
Japan &
South
Korea
India
Source: just-style, industry interviewsMay not sum to total due to rounding
Asia has become a major player in the global denim market in recent years for a number of reasons. The
continent is home to fashion industry trendsetters Japan and South Korea, two emerging economic
superpowers with billion-plus populations in China and India, as well as a number of highly competitive and
swiftly industrialising Next Eleven nations like Vietnam, Taiwan, Indonesia, the Philippines, Pakistan and
Bangladesh. These countries have booming populations and are experiencing increasing consumer
sophistication and affluence as a result of several decades worth of market leadership in manufacturing and a
prominent role in the evolution of the information technology industry. Asias prosperity also stems from its
access to a diverse range of natural resources across its vast geographic expanse and, in the textile sector, its
low-cost sewing industry and humid climate, which is ideally suited to the cultivation of cotton.
Asias denim market was valued at US$xxxxbn in 2011 and we expect it to increase marginally this year before
growing to hit US$xxxxbn by 2018. Japanese and South Korean jeanswear sales fell from a pre-crisis high of
US$xbn in 2008 to US$xxxbn in 2010, but have since shown signs of recovery and should finish 2012 at
US$xxxbn. The two markets should see combined sales of US$xxxbn by 2018. China also saw a dip in sales
between 2008 and 2010, but will continue to grow steadily, rising from US$xxxbn in 2010 to US$xbn by 2018.
Jeanswear sales in India have held steady at just US$xbn for the last four years, but should rise to US$xxxbn by
the end of 2018.
JapanFrom a design point of view, the leading player in the Asian jeanswear sector is unquestionably Japan and has
been since the late 1940s when companies such as Edwin began importing jeans from the US, analysing them
and establishing their own dying and spinning processes based on their findings. The countrys denim industry
is currently worth around US$xxxxbn and produces 80-90m jean products per year, according to the Japan
Jeans Association. While most of Japans jeans are destined for the local market it also exports to the US,
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Chapter 4 EuropeTable 3: Total jeanswear sales in Europe by major market, 2007-2018 (US$bn)
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012F 2013F 2014F 2015F 2016F 2017F 2018F
Europe
Germany
UK
France Source: just-style, industry interviewsNote:- German, France and the UK are leading markets in Europe but do not represent the whole market.The European jeanswear market is currently the worlds largest, valued at US$xxxxbn in 2011. We expect it to
continue to grow, despite the continents broader economic troubles, to US$xxxxbn this year and to
US$xxxxbn in 2018. The biggest single market for denim in Europe in recent years has been Germany, home to
European giant Mustang Jeans and also seemingly the strongest economy in the EU, closely followed by the
UK, then France, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and Belgium. German jeanswear sales remained consistent at
around the US$xxxbn mark throughout the financial crisis, whereas the UK, almost Germanys equal prior to
the downturn, dipped to a low of US$xxxbn in 2009. The UK is ultimately forecast to surpass Germany,
however, and should see annual sales of US$xxxbn by 2018, such is the popularity of the material with British
consumers. Third-placed France meanwhile is likely to show more restrained growth and rise from US$xxxbn in
2011 to US$xxxbn by 2018.
Although the three leading Western European markets are not known as producers of denim fabric, they are
large, sophisticated consumer societies and leading arbiters of taste. Germany, the UK and France together
represent xxxxxmn consumers and styles of jeanswear that sell well on the high streets of their capital cities
are likely to influence shoppers elsewhere in Europe and around the rest of the world. The three countries also
place a cultural premium on creativity and show a marked interest in boutique fashions, meaning that young
up-and-coming urban designers can quickly build a cult following outside of the mainstream. Once the current
economic clouds clear and consumer spending recovers, Western Europes denim retail sector should begin to
see signs of the growth we are predicting.
The ongoing sovereign debt crisis in the Eurozone has undoubtedly hindered consumer spending across the
continent since 2008, especially in Southern European countries, which have been hardest hit by the economic
downturn. Greece, Italy, Spain and Portugal, incidentally, all supported significant blue denim production
industries prior to the crisis because of their favourable climate for cotton cultivation, which have also suffered
as a result of recent macroeconomic woes. Much jean manufacturing has since migrated to Turkey and Central
and Eastern European bases like Romania and Albania as well as cotton-rich hubs in North Africa such as Egypt,
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Chapter 6 ConclusionsTable 7: Total jeanswear sales by regions and major countries, 2007-2018 (US$bn)
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012F 2013F 2014F 2015F 2016F 2017F 2018F
Total
Region
North
America
Europe *
Asia **
ROW
Country
US
Canada
China
Japan &
South
Korea
India
Germany
UK
France
Brazil
South
Africa Source: just-style, industry interviews*Includes Turkey**China, India, Japan and South KoreaMay not sum to total due to rounding
The global jeanswear market is expected to grow by almost US$xxbn in value over the next six years. We are
forecasting a rise in total global jeans sales from US$xxbn in 2011 to US$xxxxbn in 2018, fuelled by improving
economic conditions in traditional western markets and growing demand from emerging countries in Asia and
Latin America. Denim sales in North America should grow from US$xxxxbn to US$xxxxbn over this period, in
Europe from US$xxxxbn to US$xxxxbn and in Asia from US$xxxxbn to US$xxxxbn. Dynamic markets from the
rest of the world like Brazil and Mexico will account for the remaining third, rising from US$xxxbn in 2011 to
US$xxxbn by 2018. Cotton price fluctuations caused by weather patterns impacting harvests will continue to
have an influence on international production costs but demand should rise sufficiently to ensure steady
growth.
From a production point of view, mass market retailers will continue to source their denim from the most cost-
effective manufacturers around the world. However, there is unlikely to be much variation in which regions
these mills are located in because of the need for a temperate climate for cotton to grow in. Countries in
Central and South America and Southern Europe, particularly those based around the Mediterranean like