Going Places - CAA Magazine - Summer 2015

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(TOP) CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, (LEFT) LEA CURRIE, (RIGHT) GRAY MONK WINERY S U M M ER 2 015 | G O I N G P L A C E S 3

ON THE COVER Cabot Links, Cape Breton Island.

PHOTO: SCOTT MUNN/NOVA SCOTIA TOURISM AGENCY

TRAVEL10 Travel Smarts Top tips for solo adventurers.12 24 Hours Capitalizing on history and a funky

new vibe in Ottawa.

14 Merchandise Looking good with new luggage.24 Weekender Dropping anchor in Kenora,

Ontario. NEW!

32 Celtic Treasure Friendly locals, glorious drives and good eating with a side of Gaelic avour await on Cape Breton Island.

43 Okanagan Wine Country An insiders guide to what has been called the worlds No. 1 wine destination.

Going Placesinsidesummer 2015 [email protected]

4328

32

LOCAL16 Home Base On the old road again with a

new guidebook.

20 Top 5 Where to stop and smell the owers this summer.

28 Made in Manitoba How Thompson is reinventing itself as the wolf capital of the world. Northern Manitoba Roadtrip: Part I of II.

62 Landmarks Having a eld day in Winnipeg.

AUTOMOTIVE48 Analyze This A timely reminder for

Manitoba drivers to slow down, move over and save lives.

LIFE53 Home Sweet Home How to relocate without

a hitch and save money.

55 Youre Covered How to prevent home equipment breakdowns.

CAA DASHBOARD 8 Speakers Corner Getting in-line with

online; sound advice about alarms.

50 Ask the Experts Your automotive, travel and insurance questions answered.

56 Your Guide A new way to nd your way.

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4 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015

CAA Manitoba LocationsWinnipeg870EmpressSt.UnitC-2211McPhillipsSt.501St.AnnesRd.Monday-Friday9a.m.-6p.m.

Saturday9a.m.-4p.m.

Inquiries:204-262-6166CAA Travel:204-262-6000or1-800-222-4357

CAA Insurance:204-262-6100or1-855-779-0677

BrandonUnitC-30518thSt.N.Monday-Wednesday,Friday9a.m.-5p.m.

Thursday9a.m.-8p.m.,notincludingHome&Propertyserviceafter5p.m.

Saturday9a.m.-4p.m.,notincludingHome&Propertyservice

Inquiries:204-571-4111CAA Travel:204-571-4100CAA Insurance:204-571-4114Toll-free:1-877-222-1321

altona612ndAve.N.E.Monday-Friday9a.m.-5p.m.

Saturday10a.m.-1p.m.

204-324-8474

MeMBer ServiceS availaBle 24 hourS204-262-6111or1-800-222-4357

Toll-freecell:*222

www.caamanitoba.comAll locations are wheelchair accessible.

CAA Manitoba Board of Directors and OfficersMichael Mager,CMA, FCMA (president)Bill Ladyman(chair)Colleen Johnston(vice-chair)Raymond A. CadieuxKaye DunlopBrent FawkesPaul V. JacuzziSerena KraayeveldC. Anthony (Tony) MagianDon W. MainTom Papagiannopoulos

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HERE , FANS WIN.

6 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015

summer 2015 . volume 7 . number 2

Going Placeseditor sheila hansen

art director felice bisby

caa manitoba editor lea currie

senior art director Gayleen M. whitinG

production/studio manager kristina borys

production/print manager kirsty senior

assistant studio manager Mandy lau

production coordinator taMMy nGuyen

advertising design chris sherwood

production technicians ina bowerbank, sheila stewart

imaging technicians Mandy lau, laura Michaels

advertising

general sales manager Gillian trainor

604-299-7311

account manager anna lee

604-299-7311

manitoba & midwest u.s.a.

robert zyluk [email protected]

sales coordinator Janice cheer

chairman, ceo peter leGGe, o.b.c., ll.d (hon)

president saMantha leGGe, Mba

chief content officer charlene rooke

senior vice-president/custom publishing kathleen freiMond, Mba

vice-president/marketing & digital media holly pateMan

vice-president rebecca leGGe

executive creative director rick thibert

director/it Mike packer

director/production kiM Mclane

director/digital media rayMond yip

director/hr Joy Ginete-cockle

director/accounting sonia roxburGh

director/circulation tracy Mcritchie

digital media ariane fleischMann,

debbie JianG, JaMes Marshall, candice ui

marketing kathleen alMeida,

casey crawford, allyson wickhaM

senior support analyst peter rensen

application support analyst eileen GaJowski

accounting eileen GaJowski, terri Mason,

Jocelyn snellinG

circulation manager ashley cleGGett

circulation Millie coskun, kelly kalirai, heather Vince

executive assistants Janice cheer, heidi christie

office manager heidi christie

advertising in going places magazine does not indicate an endorsement by caa manitoba.

CAA, CAA Plus, Away From Home, CAA Plus RV and Approved Auto Repair Services are trademarks owned by, and their use granted by, the Canadian Automobile Association.

AAA, CampBook, Show Your Card & Save, TourBook and TripTik are trademarks owned by, and their use granted by, the American Automobile Association.

Going Places magazine is published four times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited, 4th Floor, 4180 Lougheed Hwy., Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6A7. Phone 604-299-7311. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission.

Subscription rates: Canada $14.95 per year, plus applicable taxes; outside Canada $20.95 per year, no tax. Rates quoted are for non-members only.

Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #40065475.

The statements, opinions and points of view expressed in articles published in this magazine are those of the authors, and publication shall not be deemed to mean that they are necessarily those of CAA Manitoba, the publisher, editor, Canada Wide Media Limited or Transcon. The publishers cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs.

Paper Post Consumer Recycled Content 10%

6.35 tonnes of trees preserved for the future

85,336 litres of wastewater fl ow saved

764 kg solid waste not generated

2,156 kg greenhouse gases prevented

23 million BTUs energy not consumed

Printed with vegetable-based ink

MemberConsumerMagazineDivision

P

LE A

S ER E C Y C

LE

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HERE , FANS WIN.summer 2015 . volume 7 . number 2

Going Placeseditor sheila hansen

art director felice bisby

caa manitoba editor lea currie

senior art director Gayleen M. whitinG

production/studio manager kristina borys

production/print manager kirsty senior

assistant studio manager Mandy lau

production coordinator taMMy nGuyen

advertising design chris sherwood

production technicians ina bowerbank, sheila stewart

imaging technicians Mandy lau, laura Michaels

advertising

general sales manager Gillian trainor

604-299-7311

account manager anna lee

604-299-7311

manitoba & midwest u.s.a.

robert zyluk [email protected]

sales coordinator Janice cheer

chairman, ceo peter leGGe, o.b.c., ll.d (hon)

president saMantha leGGe, Mba

chief content officer charlene rooke

senior vice-president/custom publishing kathleen freiMond, Mba

vice-president/marketing & digital media holly pateMan

vice-president rebecca leGGe

executive creative director rick thibert

director/it Mike packer

director/production kiM Mclane

director/digital media rayMond yip

director/hr Joy Ginete-cockle

director/accounting sonia roxburGh

director/circulation tracy Mcritchie

digital media ariane fleischMann,

debbie JianG, JaMes Marshall, candice ui

marketing kathleen alMeida,

casey crawford, allyson wickhaM

senior support analyst peter rensen

application support analyst eileen GaJowski

accounting eileen GaJowski, terri Mason,

Jocelyn snellinG

circulation manager ashley cleGGett

circulation Millie coskun, kelly kalirai, heather Vince

executive assistants Janice cheer, heidi christie

office manager heidi christie

advertising in going places magazine does not indicate an endorsement by caa manitoba.

CAA, CAA Plus, Away From Home, CAA Plus RV and Approved Auto Repair Services are trademarks owned by, and their use granted by, the Canadian Automobile Association.

AAA, CampBook, Show Your Card & Save, TourBook and TripTik are trademarks owned by, and their use granted by, the American Automobile Association.

Going Places magazine is published four times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited, 4th Floor, 4180 Lougheed Hwy., Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6A7. Phone 604-299-7311. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission.

Subscription rates: Canada $14.95 per year, plus applicable taxes; outside Canada $20.95 per year, no tax. Rates quoted are for non-members only.

Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #40065475.

The statements, opinions and points of view expressed in articles published in this magazine are those of the authors, and publication shall not be deemed to mean that they are necessarily those of CAA Manitoba, the publisher, editor, Canada Wide Media Limited or Transcon. The publishers cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs.

p06-07_Masthead.indd 7 15-04-15 11:59 AM

Visit: Over 145 CAA Of cesClick: caa.ca/hertzCall: 1-888-333-3120

Hertz & CAA. Where value rules the road.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Advance reservations are required and must include your CAA Club Discount Code (CDP#) along with Promotion Code (PC) #301302. PC# must be included in reservation or offer is void. Modifying your reservation may result in a change in your rate and/or invalidate this offer. Subject to availability, this offer is redeemable on select vehicles at participating locations in Canada, the U.S., Puerto Rico and Mexico. Blackouts may apply. This offer has no cash value, may not be used with Prepay Rates, Tour Rates or Insurance Replacement Rates and may only be used with a CAA CDP#. No other CDP#, certi cate, voucher, offer or promotion applies. Hertz age, driver, credit and qualifying rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Taxes, tax reimbursement, age differential charges, fees and optional service charges, such as refueling, are not included. 10% discount is in addition to the standard CAA discount on car rentals. Discounts apply to time and mileage charges only and are in local currency upon redemption. Vehicle must be returned to renting location to avoid change in rate or drop charge. Rate subject to increase or fees may apply in the event of early/late vehicle returns. At the time of rental, present your CAA Membership card or Hertz/CAA Discount Card for identi cation. Offer valid for vehicle pickup through 7/31/15.

Discounts and bene ts are available at all Hertz corporate and participating licensee locations in Canada and the U.S., and are subject to availability. Savings in CAD or local currency equivalent. Only CAA Members with a Gold enrollment date on or after February 1, 2012, who elect to participate in the Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program will qualify for a free rental day after the rst Gold rental. Go to: caa.ca/hertzgold to enroll. Premier Members must enroll at: caa.ca/hertzpremier.

Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. 2015 Hertz System, Inc. CAA and CAA logo trademarks owned by, and use is authorized by, the Canadian Automobile Association.

CAA Rewards is a trademark of the Canadian Automobile Association. hertz.ca

CAA Members save an additional 10% on weekly rentals of Economy through Premium vehicles at participating Hertz locations when Promotion Code #301302 is included in the reservation.

CAA Member exclusive discounts and benefits: Everyday discounts of up to 20% on daily, weekend, weekly and monthly rentals! Hertz NeverLost GPS rental for $6.99 per day, a savings of $6 per day! Additional qualified CAA drivers are FREE, a savings of $13 per day per driver! FREE use of a child, infant or booster seat, a savings of $11.99 per day! Hertz Gold Plus Rewards membership and a FREE rental day!

BIGGER SUMMER SAVINGS START NOW!

8 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 iSTOCK

SPEAKERS CORNER

Getting In-line with OnlineEven our TripTiks are learning a few new tricks.

Now you can plan your roadtrip online and download the TripTik right to your phone or tablet, which many of us are now using for navigation rather than tradi-tional maps. Of course, if you still want a printed Trip-Tik, we can do that, or you can print at home. (See page 56 for details on TripTik changes.)

You can email, tweet, Facebook, Instagram or hashtag us, but dont forget you can always still pick up that phone or come into one of our service centres we are always here for you. We might be learning some new tricks, but we certainly arent forgetting the tried-and-true ways that so many of you have come to respect and trust. GP

Mike MagerPresident and CEO, CAA Manitoba

Sound Advice ere were certainly some great tips and insights for homeowners in Robbers-Eye View (Home Sweet Home, Spring 2015). We completely agree with maxi-mizing an alarm systems protection through deliberate placement of the keypad and being sure to always set the alarm (tips 3 and 10). But we would like to caution your readers about the false sense of security from tip 7, suggesting that a loud TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. A monitored alarm system is both a deterrent and provides an immediate response in the event of an emergency whether its a burglary, re, medical emergency, alarms for water in the basement or heating system failure. A monitored alarm system will make a burglar think twice about entering your home, help minimize their time in it if they do enter and instantly signal theres a problem.

Rial BlackGeneral Manager, ProTELEC Alarms

Weve all heard the saying you cant teach an old dog new tricks. I tend to disagree.

For more than 110 years, CAA Manitoba has been serving our members and our province. You dont get to stay in business for over a century if you arent willing to learn a few new tricks. Like any organization right now in Canada, we are learning to

embrace new technologies and incorporate them into the way we connect with our membership.

You told us that in order to stay relevant to mem-bers, we need to be competitive in the online world. Ive been very excited to see and hear about all the new ways we are able to connect and do business with you through our app, website and social media.

One of the biggest projects we have launched of late is our online store. Now, you dont even have to get out of your PJs to shop for travel accessories, luggage and Lug products while taking advantage of special member pricing. We can ship right to your door, or you can pick up at one of our service centres in Winnipeg or Brandon. Its a great way for our rural members to have access to the many quality products we sell in our service centres.

We also know many of our members like to book travel on their own online. Did you know you can book vacation packages, cruises, ights, hotels, car rentals and city-speci c excursions right on the CAA website? With that, you get the best of both worlds: the convenience of booking when and how you want, and great value while

being backed by CAA Travel. e same goes for insurance. You can now buy travel insurance

or get a free quote for home and property insurance with just a click of a mouse.

WRITE US: Going Places P.O. Box 1400, 870 Empress St.,

Winnipeg, MB R3C 2Z3 Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

email: [email protected]/caamanitoba

twitter.com/caamanitoba

p08-09_SpeakersCorner.indd 8 15-04-15 12:00 PM

Visit: Over 145 CAA Of cesClick: caa.ca/hertzCall: 1-888-333-3120

Hertz & CAA. Where value rules the road.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Advance reservations are required and must include your CAA Club Discount Code (CDP#) along with Promotion Code (PC) #301302. PC# must be included in reservation or offer is void. Modifying your reservation may result in a change in your rate and/or invalidate this offer. Subject to availability, this offer is redeemable on select vehicles at participating locations in Canada, the U.S., Puerto Rico and Mexico. Blackouts may apply. This offer has no cash value, may not be used with Prepay Rates, Tour Rates or Insurance Replacement Rates and may only be used with a CAA CDP#. No other CDP#, certi cate, voucher, offer or promotion applies. Hertz age, driver, credit and qualifying rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Taxes, tax reimbursement, age differential charges, fees and optional service charges, such as refueling, are not included. 10% discount is in addition to the standard CAA discount on car rentals. Discounts apply to time and mileage charges only and are in local currency upon redemption. Vehicle must be returned to renting location to avoid change in rate or drop charge. Rate subject to increase or fees may apply in the event of early/late vehicle returns. At the time of rental, present your CAA Membership card or Hertz/CAA Discount Card for identi cation. Offer valid for vehicle pickup through 7/31/15.

Discounts and bene ts are available at all Hertz corporate and participating licensee locations in Canada and the U.S., and are subject to availability. Savings in CAD or local currency equivalent. Only CAA Members with a Gold enrollment date on or after February 1, 2012, who elect to participate in the Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program will qualify for a free rental day after the rst Gold rental. Go to: caa.ca/hertzgold to enroll. Premier Members must enroll at: caa.ca/hertzpremier.

Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. 2015 Hertz System, Inc. CAA and CAA logo trademarks owned by, and use is authorized by, the Canadian Automobile Association.

CAA Rewards is a trademark of the Canadian Automobile Association. hertz.ca

CAA Members save an additional 10% on weekly rentals of Economy through Premium vehicles at participating Hertz locations when Promotion Code #301302 is included in the reservation.

CAA Member exclusive discounts and benefits: Everyday discounts of up to 20% on daily, weekend, weekly and monthly rentals! Hertz NeverLost GPS rental for $6.99 per day, a savings of $6 per day! Additional qualified CAA drivers are FREE, a savings of $13 per day per driver! FREE use of a child, infant or booster seat, a savings of $11.99 per day! Hertz Gold Plus Rewards membership and a FREE rental day!

BIGGER SUMMER SAVINGS START NOW!

p08-09_SpeakersCorner.indd 9 15-04-15 12:00 PM

10 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 MANDY LAU

Alone and AwesomeTop tips for solo adventurers

by Shirley Buccieri

Would you like to go on a trip with someone you know intimately, do exactly what you want and never once have to share your dessert? More people are travelling on their own, and not just because their friends and family cant join them, says Cathy Perron, a CAA Travel consultant at the CAA Manitoba St. Annes service centre. Indeed, CAA Travel booked more than 500 solo trips in 2014, compared to 50 in 2009. Heres how you can make the most of going it alone.

Do your homework: You wont have friends to watch your bags or help with navigation, so book your first nights reservation ahead of time and know how you will get there. Research and map your itinerary with the help of a travel consultant before you go, then make sure its easily acces sible on the road. Leave copies of your itinerary and other documents with a family member or friend at home as a backup and in case of an emer gency. Tell your bank and credit card company where youre going to prevent fraud alerts that could block access to funds. As well, check travel.gc.ca for government travel advisories and to sign up with Registration of Canadians Abroad. Remember, CAA Travel consultants can address advisory concerns and are there to help during emergencies abroad.

Put lines in the water: Before leaving, ask friends and collea gues for online introduc tions to people they know at your destination. These connections can pay off

handsomely and help ease loneliness. Or join a small group tour or themed cruise. Youll wind up meet ing travellers with similar inter ests, says Perron, but you can break away when you want time on your own. (See sidebar for details on CAA Travels new club for solo travellers who want to travel in a group.)

Go for it: Once youve embarked, set aside your electronic devices and engage with your surroundings. Walk or take public transporta-tion. Delve into themes that pique your interest from indigenous art

to cocktail culture. Keep a journal to explore how these experiences are changing and inspiring you.

Meet people on your terms:Have as much or as little contact as you want. Become a regular at a coffeehouse and exchange tips with locals and fellow travellers. Sit at the communal table. Ask someone to take your picture. Go on a walking tour and chat with your guide. When youre on your own, its amazing how people will reach out to you, says Perron. Its a great way to really immerse yourself in a place.

Follow your heart: If you want to linger in the caf for an hour, do it. e museum is boring? Leave. Take advantage of the exibility, says Perron. If youre not having fun, do something di erent. One of the best things about travelling alone is the freedom to change your plans on a whim. GP

TRAVEL SMARTS

Many European river cruise lines waive

the single supplement fee on select departures.

Contact CAA Travel about saving money

while cruising solo.

Solo EsCAApesLove to travel but dont want to go alone? CAA Manitoba has the perfect club for you. The Solo EsCAApes Club is for people who are passionate about travelling but dont have a travel partner. Its an exciting way to see the world, share new experiences and build friendships, all while saving money and staying safe. Created in 2014, this new club is in the process of arranging group adventures to des-tinations chosen by club members, via surveys, while experienced CAA Travel consultants do the legwork to get you there.

The club is free to join, and you are under no obligation to hop on board all the club trips. You just pick the ones that interest you and t your schedule and budget. CAA Travel also hosts local Solo EsCAApes Club events in Winnipeg and Brandon throughout the year, allowing you to get to know the group and ensuring your next trip is enjoyable and comfortable.To learn more or join the Solo EsCAApes Club, email [email protected].

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Follow your heart: If you want to linger in the caf for an hour, do it. e museum is boring? Leave. Take advantage of the exibility, says Perron. If youre not having fun, do something di erent. One of the best things about travelling alone is the freedom to change your plans on a whim. GP

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24 HOURS

12 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 OTTAWA TOURISM, (BOTTOM RIGHT) CALYPSO THEME WATER PARK

START THE DAY with a brisk walk along the Rideau Canal. This 202-kilometre-long UNESCO World Heritage Site starts in Kingston and ends in Ottawa, spilling into the Ottawa River. Book an Ottawa River cruise at the Ottawa Locks (at Parlia-ment Hill and the Fairmont Chateau Laurier). Boats leave several times a day during the summer.

IF DIPPING INTO the past is more your style, the nations capi-tal just happens to offer the high-est concentration of museums in the country. The Bytown Museum, located in Ottawas old-est stone building, is a great place to learn about the citys fascinating past. Bytown, as Ottawa was called until 1855, was named after Lieutenant-Colonel John By, who played an instrumental role in building the Rideau Canal. Next, stroll the National Gallery of Canada and its summer exhibits of Chagall and early Canadian travel photography. Or take the kids to the Museum of Nature or the Museum of Science and Technology. Just across the Ottawa River in Gatineau, Quebec, the Canadian Museum of His-tory is not to be missed with its huge collection of Paci c coastal native houses, including the

largest indoor collection of totem poles, and other artifacts that tell the countrys story dating back more than 20,000 years.

POST MUSEUM-GAZING, let loose at Calypso, Canadas largest water park. Spread across 40 hect-ares, this outdoor play land just a 45-minute drive east of Ottawa is home to more than 35 waterslides, 100 games and eight restaurants.

HUNGRY? Established in the 1830s, ByWard Market is one of Canadas oldest farmers markets and home to Ottawas downtown entertainment district. The Low-ertown Brewery on York Street

perfects craft brewing with its agship American-style medium-bodied lager. Pair your pints with a house-made porchetta or rotis-serie chicken sandwich. Fans of

Top Chef Canada will recognize winner Ren Rodriguez at the helm of Navarra, a tiny Basque and Mexican eatery. Though Supply and Demand is located outside the downtown core in the neighbourhood of Wellington West, the room is packed every night with patrons delighting in the seafood-centric fare.

GET READY TO splurge on funky Dalhousie Street. Warning: shopping here may cause you to hide receipts and bags from your spouse. Such are the possible consequences of buying a pair of high-waisted pants from Victoire. Complement your new purchase with one-of-a-kind jewellery from Workshop Studio + Boutique.

BEFORE BEDDING down in the historic Fairmont ChteauLaurier, view original works by Canadian photographer Yousuf Karsh and nosh on nger sand-wiches at the daily tea service in Zos Lounge. For more modish accommodations, the boutique-style ARC The.Hotel is also downtown. GP

OttawaCapitalizing on history and a funky new vibe

by Tracy Hyatt

A visit to our capital city is a must

for any Canadian. Contact CAA Travel to book a trip to

this historical-meets-modern metropolis.

The Canadian Museum of History.

The Rideau Canal.

Calypso, the countrys largest water park.

p12-13_24HoursOttawa.indd 12 15-04-15 12:01 PM

A visit to our capital city is a must

for any Canadian. Contact CAA Travel to book a trip to

this historical-meets-modern metropolis.

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14 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 (luggage cart) douglas little photography

Pack Your BagsLooking good with new luggage

MERCHANDISE

A. National Geographic Duffel Bags These feature-rich pieces, which convert into backpacks, will fit in just as well at a five-star hotel as a hostel. Wheel down the cobblestone streets of New York City or, across the pond, carry on to the next train for Paris. Member prices: duffel bag, $39.99; 22 wheeled duffel, $134.99; 25 wheeled duffel, $149.99; 30 wheeled duffel, $169.99. (Regular prices: $59.99; $159.99; $179.99; $199.99 respectively.) Colour: black.

B. Samsonite Pursuit NXT Hard Side Upright Spinners For the frequent traveller, this lightweight, hard-sided upright set provides outstanding manoeuverability thanks to four multi-directional spinner wheels that allow for 360- degree rolling. Plus, it can expand after a few too many souvenirs. Member prices: 20 spinner carry- on, $139.99; 24 upright, $159.99; 28 spinner upright, $179.99. (Regular prices: $169.99; $199.99; $219.99 respectively.) Colours: black, blue and brown.

C. Samsonite B-Lite-R Soft Side Upright Spinners A place for everything and everything in its place with multiple pockets, removable laundry bag and elastic cross straps to ensure nothing slips out of place. A large exterior pocket is perfect for those last-minute necessities as youre rushing out the door. Member prices: 20 spinner carry- on, $169.99; 26 spinner, $199.99; 28 spinner, $209.99. (Regular prices: $199.99; $239.99; $249.99 respectively). Colours: black, blue and green. GP

Whether you prefer to carry on or check your bags, travel light or pack everything but the kitchen sink, CAA Manitoba has luggage that is just your bag. Come pick up a new piece or a full set before your next trip.

Available from CAA Manitoba service centres or buy online at shop.caamanitoba.com.

A

C

B

p14-15_Merchandise.indd 14 15-04-21 10:55 AM

C. Samsonite B-Lite-R Soft Side Upright Spinners A place for everything and everything in its place with multiple pockets, removable laundry bag and elastic cross straps to ensure nothing slips out of place. A large exterior pocket is perfect for those last-minute necessities as youre rushing out the door. Member prices: 20 spinner carry- on, $169.99; 26 spinner, $199.99; 28 spinner, $209.99. (Regular prices: $199.99; $239.99; $249.99 respectively). Colours: black, blue and green. GP

p14-15_Merchandise.indd 15 15-04-15 12:02 PM

16 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 PETER ST. JOHN

base

A GUIDEBOOK, HISTORY LESSON AND ENTERTAINING NARRATIVE, Exploring Old Highway No. 1 West: Canadas Route 66 is both a journey from the centre of Canada westward and a journey from past to present. Winnipeg-born author J. Clark Saunders leads the way on a nostalgic journey along the original Trans-Canada Highway from 1945 to 1965.

Saunders takes us on a tour of quaint restaurants, neon-trimmed motels, roadside attractions, campgrounds and picnic sites, many of which are still accessible o the beaten path. At the same time, the book delves into those classic family car trips and the accompanying experiences both good and not so good (cue annoying siblings). Saunderss subtle sense of humour, aided by a healthy dose of history, wrap the guidebook up into a neat little read. Whether youre planning your own roadtrip west via the Trans-Canada or simply hitting the highway in your mind, Saunders o ers the perfect guide. Bathroom breaks optional. Available at independent bookstores, including McNally Robinson; $26.95. Published by Heartland Associates.

GLASS ACTCongratulations to Going Places contributor Barb Sligl, a bronze prize winner in the 2014 North American Travel Journalists Association Awards Competition. Sligls photograph of Tacomas Museum of Glass Hot Shop and glass-art-adorned waterfront, which placed in the Facility, Architectural category, ran with her story, Tacoma Turnaround, in the summer 2014 issue. www.natja.org/awards/2014-winners, digital.canadawide.com/i/299622/41

WIN THIS BOOK!Enter to win a copy of Exploring

Old Highway No. 1 West: Canadas Route 66 by J. Clark Saunders at

www.caamanitoba.com/contests. Contest deadline: June 8, 2015.

AgainAgainAgainAgainOld RoadOld RoadOld RoadOld Road

On theOn the

Old RoadOn the

Old Road

42 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 014 (above) mahesh thapa/museum of glass, (opposite) barb sligl

Once a working-class way station between Seattle and Portland, sea-side Tacomas claim to fame was hav-ing the largest lumber mill in the world, something musician Neko Case alludes to in her lyrics. She grew up here and touches upon Tacomas beleaguered history as a declining blue-collar town in the song Thrice All American: I wanna tell you about my hometown/Its a dusty old jewel in the South Puget Sound/Where the factories churn/And the timbers all cut down.

Its a love song of sorts, and I listen to it on the train from Vancou-ver, B.C., gliding past still coves, ancient trees and long stretches of driftwood-strewn beach. People who built it they love it like I do/There

was hope in the trainyard of some-thing inspired, sings Case. Her ode to Tacoma is even more poignant given that something inspired has indeed transpired.

Its that inspiration Im seeking on a weekend jaunt south of the bor-der with my beau, starting with the leisurely five-hour-plus train ride that drops us off within minutes of downtown, where rough-and-tumble has morphed into the Tacoma Museum District. Here, six world-class museums within blocks of each other are the nexus of whats become one of Americas most walkable cities. We stroll from the Tacoma Art Museum over the Chihuly Bridge of Glass, past the intricate, almost ani-mated glass creations of the Venetian Wall to the restored urban waterfront

and Museum of Glass. Its towering 27-metre Hot Shop cone, itself a mix of old and new, references industrial-age chimneys in a starkly modern design. Its Tacomas new hallmark, where young men and women stoke blazing fires as in times gone by, but with modern-day passion.

TACOMAOn the edge of Puget Sound in the Pacific Northwest,

a former timber town sparkles with glass art and a hip new vibe

TURNAROUNDBY BARB SLIGL

What do Andy Warhol, Heath Ledger, Neko Case and Dale Chihuly have in common? Tacoma. Really. Pop artist and icon, tragic actor, indie-darling musician and living-legend glassblower all have a connection to the city just south of Seattle largely known as the other half of SeaTac airport. Theres an artistic pull in this once

down-and-out port and its growing stronger. This is Tacomas turnaround.

The Museum of Glass Hot Shop towers over Tacomas waterfront and Martin Blanks glowing Fluent Steps,

made up of 754 hand-sculpted glass pieces.

The dream-like shapes of Dale Chihulys Seaform Pavilion on the Bridge of Glass.

TACOMATURNAROUNDWdown-and-out port and its growing stronger. This is Tacomas turnaround.

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(LEO MOL) BEATRICE MURCH, (DOUGHNUT) ANGELE YOUNG S U M M ER 2 015 | G O I N G P L A C E S 17

IN WINNIPEG, you cant throw a perogy without hitting a Leo Mol sculpture. But its not so well known that the late Ukrainian-Canadian artist has works exhibited all over the world. One of his common themes is statuary dedicated to the 19th-century Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko. Youll nd such a statue in Palermo, a bustling neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. Why Argentina? Its estimated that some 100,000 people of Ukrainian descent live in the Argentinian capital. Jim ChliboykoSee the bronze memorial to Taras Shevchenko in-person during a trip to Argentina. Call CAA Travel at 204-262-6000 (in Winnipeg); 1-800-222-4357.

WIN THIS BOOK!Enter to win a copy of Exploring

Old Highway No. 1 West: Canadas Route 66 by J. Clark Saunders at

www.caamanitoba.com/contests. Contest deadline: June 8, 2015.

EVERYWHERE YOU TURN, a new restaurant is popping up in Winnipegs Exchange District. From Brazilian barbecue and

Argentinian pizza to vegan burgers and local dishes geared to the season, youre

only a stones throw away from great food. But while the dinner choices are limitless, breakfast options are few and far between. Enter Clementine, the new brainchild from

the people behind the popular Segovia Tapas Bar and Restaurant.

Opening this summer, the breakfast and lunch eatery at 123 Princess Street will offer customers good-quality, inspired

meals that are several steps above drive-through breakfast sandwiches and bacon-

and-egg combos. The menu focuses on products made in-house, including bread

and pastries, cheese, sausage and smoked sh. The open kitchen design with

surrounding dining room will encourage patrons to sit and enjoy their meal, but

for those on the go, there are also quick-service options. GP

OUR MOL in Argentina

Morning Glories

AMANDA KINDEN isnt your average baker. She doesnt even have a culinary background. Nevertheless, she has managed to win over the hearts and stomachs of Winnipeggers with Oh Doughnuts.

Adapting as she goes and sometimes learning the hard way has

led to such masterpieces as pink peppercorn glaze, cherry cheesecake and

chocolate caramel pretzel doughnuts. I look at other types of desserts and how I can

incorporate that into a doughnut, says Kinden, who also fries up traditional o erings such as Boston

cream and vanilla glaze with sprinkles.Clearly, doughnut lovers cant get enough. Kindens confections y o the shelves almost as

fast as she can glaze them. To keep up with demand, the 34-year-old quit her job in environmental advocacy to bake full-time. She makes each doughnut by hand, averaging some 10 dozen doughnuts every day in a rented kitchen space.

She has plans for her own Oh Doughnuts outlet. In the meantime, her gourmet delights are available through local co ee shops, including om Bargen, Parlour Co ee, Little Sister Co ee Maker and Folio Caf inside the Canadian Mennonite University. Kinden also takes special orders when time allows. www.ohdoughnuts.com

Success StoryAn All-Round

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20 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015 assiniboine park conservancy, the forks winnipeg,

No oNe likes to be led dowN the gardeN path unless, of course, its summer in Manitoba and the path in question will take you through one

of the provinces most vibrant and exotic public gardens. Our

picks for Manitobas best gardens.

1 Best overall gardenassiniBoine Park gardens, WinniPegWhether youre a

horticulturalist, art lover, herbalist or just want to stop and smell the flowers, theres something at Assiniboine Park for everyone. Those who want a classic garden setting can take in the beautifully symmetrical Formal Gardens or the more natural English Garden, with its stunning displays of water lilies

and irises. Visitors with limited mobility will appreciate the Abilities Garden, designed to reflect the healing power of plants. Volunteers from Transplant Manitoba maintain the striking Garden of Life a tribute to the thousands of organ donors and their families with flowers that depict the shape, colour and care of the bodys vital organs. Guests can also learn more about culinary and medicinal herbs at the Herb Garden. Last, but certainly not

least, the Leo Mol Sculpture Garden is home to hundreds of bronze statues and other works by the late world-renowned artist who once called Winnipeg home. www.assiniboinepark.ca/attractions/gardens.php

2 Best Prairie gardenPrairie garden, theForks, WinniPeg

Its not the only prairie garden in Manitoba, but the Prairie Garden at The Forks is definitely the top pick in this category due to its variety and location. Instead of the usual public garden variety of tulips and roses, visitors will discover unique prairie crocuses, wild

irises and 36 other prairie-specific plants. In fact, the half-acre retreat boasts a total of 10,000 different plant species. This herbal beauty is a vibrant oasis in the middle of the city and a living record of our local horticultural history. And as it overlooks the Red and Assiniboine rivers, Prairie Garden is also one of those

Crofters Cottage in the english garden, assiniboine Park gardens.

top 5

the Forks Prairie garden in downtown Winnipeg.

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istock, assiniboine park conservancy s u m m er 2 015 | g o i n g p l a c e s 21

truly iconic Winnipeg spots explains why it draws more than four million visitors each year. www.theforks.com/attractions/at-the-forks/prairie-garden

3 Best art-garden Fusiongallery in the Park, altonaLocated an hour and a

half south of Winnipeg and just 30 minutes from the U.S. border, this garden is an elegant hybrid of art and vegetation. At the centre is the Schwartz House, a family home built in 1902. When the Town of Altona took responsibility for the structure a century later, there was talk of demolition, but eventually, thanks to the vision and support of the Friesens Corporation, the house was

turned into an art gallery with a sprawling green backdrop. The walls of the Schwartz house now show off the talent of local artists (to peruse and purchase), and the grounds flaunt the dedication of community volunteers who work hard to maintain the area. This is a thing of beauty, inside and out, and is a draw for tourists and art lovers on both sides of the border. www.galleryinthepark.ca

4 Best year-round gardenassiniBoine Park Conservatory, assiniBoine

Park, WinniPegThis fertile wonderland isnt your typical backyard affair. It boasts more than 8,000 flowers, plants and trees. A rainbow of flora will

surround you from soil to glass ceiling. The conservatory is open year-round (except Christmas Day) and is a comforting place for a stroll no matter how frightful the weather. The ever-changing display of colours, shapes, patterns and styles of flowers and plants makes this one of Manitobas most magical sights. Throughout the year, the Conservatory Display House features seasonal displays, floral shows and special events. www.assiniboinepark.ca/attractions/conservatory.php

5 Best northern gardenBoreal gardens, ChurChillThe Boreal Gardens is a

30-year-old experimental

research project aimed at challenging the frigid northern Manitoba climate. The greenhouses and gardens are all about practicality creating sustainable food for the north during the harsh winter months when the area struggles to get fresh sustenance. A thriving mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes and local berries grows from beds and cages throughout the warm shelter. Theres also a thrill for flower lovers a surprising and beautiful display of lilies, dahlias and other delights. The Boreal Gardens is one more reason to check out the polar bear capital of the world. www.visitnorthernmanitoba.ca GP

irises and 36 other prairie-specific plants. In fact, the half-acre retreat boasts a total of 10,000 different plant species. This herbal beauty is a vibrant oasis in the middle of the city and a living record of our local horticultural history. And as it overlooks the Red and Assiniboine rivers, Prairie Garden is also one of those

Crofters Cottage in the english garden, assiniboine Park gardens.

Gain exclusive access to the worlds most

extraordinary gardens on a horticulture-themed

vacation with the Royal Horticultural Society

and CAA Travel.

(clockwise from top) altonas gallery in the Park; dahlias and more at the Boreal gardens; assiniboine Park Conservatory, assiniboine Park.

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24 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015 CLAUDINE GERVAIS

10-tonne houseboat, after all. While Lake of the Woods is

dotted with as many as 14,500 islands, we look to our captain to nd the perfect spot. (Those going it alone can navigate the waters with the help of the $15 Navionics app; navionics.com.) Safely moored, we set a time for someone to return for us a couple of nights later, and we are on our own. We have our cellphones to text the Gordons if we run into any trouble, as well as the houseboats VHF radio.

The only thing online is sh, as Jeff perfects his cast from the swimming deck at the stern. We arent counting on catching all our meals though, as weve stocked the fridge with our favourites. From the kitchens pots and dishes to the barbecue on deck, we have all we need to prepare our food.

Keeping the houseboat in one spot, we have a small outboard motorboat for short excursions around the lake. We adjust to natures schedule, waking with the morning light and turning in when darkness falls. Our only visitors are loons and ducks, and a squirrel on the nearby shore.

Kenora, OntarioDropping anchor in Lake of the Woods

by Claudine Gervais

WEEKENDER

Winnipeg

MANITOBA

ONTARIO

Brandon

LakeWinnipeg

KENORA

Our daughter will be off to university in the United States in a few short weeks, and were looking to reconnect and recharge ahead of the stormy seas of travel, student apartment shopping, Ikea furniture assembling and whats sure to be a teary goodbye.

McDoves Two, which plies the mighty Lake of the Woods and its 105,000 kilometres of shoreline, is

one of ve vessels operated by Kenora-based Houseboat Adventures. Jeff and Lorelie Gordon own the family-run business and, with three sons at university, know what its like to see children y the nest.

THE ESCAPEOnly a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Winnipeg, Kenora is a well-known destination for Manitobans with many holding onto the Ontario town as if its their own. Indeed, Kenora is like a neighbour with a backyard pool and a fridge full of beer.

And what better place to get to know our neighbour than at the Lake of the Woods Discovery Centre, our rst stop after arriving in town this morning. Inside this stunning glass-and-wood structure,

in-the-know clerks tip us off to the areas many assets. We discover that a rock-climbing lesson is a great way to make the most of the Canadian Shield landscape. And that paranormal encounters are possible at Mather Walls House, a Queen Anne-style home featured on the TV series Creepy Canadaand now home to the Lake of the Woods Historical Society.

THE HIDEAWAYOn board the McDoves, were off in search of a secluded spot along the shoreline. We choose to have a staff member pilot for us, rather than taking the wheel on our own (which guests can do as long as they meet Proof of Competency guidelines for operating a watercraft). Its no small feat to be at the helm of a

Were climbing aboard McDoves Two at the Main Street dock in Kenora, Ontario. My husband, Jeff, and I will spend the next couple of nights aboard the 44-foot houseboat. The McDoves name conjures birds symbols of love and peace a good omen, I think, for two almost empty-nesters about to spend more uninterrupted time in each others company than we have in the previous 18 years.

(from top) The McDoves Two on Lake of the Woods; the intimate Bijou Steakhouse; breakfast on board.

This years Harbourfest music festival (July 31-August 2) will see performances from Daughtry, the band featuring American Idol alumnus Chris Daughtry, as well as Canadian Country Music Association 2014 Rising Star winner Tim Hicks, and Kenoras own local boys, North Shore. www.harbourfest.ca

THE INSIDE TRACK

Taking a roadtrip this summer?

Save the mileage and rent a vehicle from Hertz.

CAA Manitoba members save up to 20%.

p24-25_Weekender.indd 24 15-04-15 12:06 PM

CLAUDINE GERVAIS, iSTOCK, LAKE OF THE WOODS BREWING COMPANY S U M M ER 2 015 | G O I N G P L A C E S 25

10-tonne houseboat, after all. While Lake of the Woods is

dotted with as many as 14,500 islands, we look to our captain to nd the perfect spot. (Those going it alone can navigate the waters with the help of the $15 Navionics app; navionics.com.) Safely moored, we set a time for someone to return for us a couple of nights later, and we are on our own. We have our cellphones to text the Gordons if we run into any trouble, as well as the houseboats VHF radio.

The only thing online is sh, as Jeff perfects his cast from the swimming deck at the stern. We arent counting on catching all our meals though, as weve stocked the fridge with our favourites. From the kitchens pots and dishes to the barbecue on deck, we have all we need to prepare our food.

Keeping the houseboat in one spot, we have a small outboard motorboat for short excursions around the lake. We adjust to natures schedule, waking with the morning light and turning in when darkness falls. Our only visitors are loons and ducks, and a squirrel on the nearby shore.

THE TABLEPrior to boarding, we spent a night at the Lakeside Inn, an 11-storey circular landmark overlooking the lake, and had dinner at the Bijou Steakhouse, formerly the Bijou Theatre, on Kenoras Main Street. Opened in 2012, owner and chef Dave Caissy is also a musician who regularly plays at the Kings Head Pub in Winnipeg. Go for steak and stay for live music. www.bijousteakhouse.com

The MS Kenora offers a Sunday brunch menu, weekday lunch and dinner cruise options as well as a weekend dinner buffet. Meanwhile, its the sparkling water, stunning sunsets and skyline outside the air-conditioned dining room that truly captivate. Indulge in another kind of stargazing while you cruise past extravagant summer cottages owned over the years by the likes of John Wayne and Goldie Hawn. www.mskenora.com

Ye Olde Chip Truck is often the rst and last stop for Kenora expats and potato purists. The original year-round Market Square location was rst on the scene in 1957, well ahead of todays food

truck faceoffs. The spud studs can also be found at Ye Olde Chip Truck East, 1229 Hwy. 17 E. www.thechiptruck.com

Matiowski Farmers Market is 100 stalls under

the Whitecap Pavilion (the big white tent on the Kenora Harbourfront) brimming with local fruits and vegetables, baking, bannock, sweets and meats. Its open every Wednesday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., June to October. GP

in-the-know clerks tip us off to the areas many assets. We discover that a rock-climbing lesson is a great way to make the most of the Canadian Shield landscape. And that paranormal encounters are possible at Mather Walls House, a Queen Anne-style home featured on the TV series Creepy Canadaand now home to the Lake of the Woods Historical Society.

THE HIDEAWAYOn board the McDoves, were off in search of a secluded spot along the shoreline. We choose to have a staff member pilot for us, rather than taking the wheel on our own (which guests can do as long as they meet Proof of Competency guidelines for operating a watercraft). Its no small feat to be at the helm of a

(clockwise from top) Fishing from the McDoves Two; public art; Ye Olde Chip Truck fare, served since 1957.

This years Harbourfest music festival (July 31-August 2) will see performances from Daughtry, the band featuring American Idol alumnus Chris Daughtry, as well as Canadian Country Music Association 2014 Rising Star winner Tim Hicks, and Kenoras own local boys, North Shore. www.harbourfest.ca

The Coney Island Music Festival is a maybe annual festival that has taken place for the past six summers. Its prepping for lucky No. 7 on July 27, 2015. Catch the MS Kenora or another shuttle from the marina to Coney Island for the perfect mix of beach and musical beats. www.coneyislandmusicfestival.com

The Lake of the Woods Museum brings history into the high-tech present with iPad-assisted tours through three levels of exhibit space addressing the areas rst aboriginal inhabitants, settlers and Kenoras industrial age of lumber

mills, mining and milling. www.lakeofthewoodsmuseum.ca

Tour the Lake of the Woods Brewing Company in the towns century-old rehall. The only re youll have to put out is your thirst, with their agship Firehouse brown ale. www.lowbrewco.com

And for a non-alcoholic quencher, try HoJoe Coffee & Books Lake of the Woods lemonade, avoured with basil, mint and rosemary and served with frozen blueberries. Or get a boost from a glass of cold-pressed juice or joe while you pore over a

book of your choice perhaps the award-winning memoir Houseboat Chronicles: Notes from a Life in Shield Country, by Winnipegger Jake MacDonald. www.hojo.ca

THE INSIDE TRACK

North Shore.

sunsets and skyline outside the air-conditioned dining room that truly captivate. Indulge in another kind

cottages owned over the years by the likes of John Wayne and Goldie

Ye Olde Chip Truck is often the rst and last stop for Kenora expats

the Whitecap Pavilion (the big white tent on the Kenora Harbourfront) brimming with local

Taking a roadtrip this summer?

Save the mileage and rent a vehicle from Hertz.

CAA Manitoba members save up to 20%.

p24-25_Weekender.indd 25 15-04-15 12:06 PM

*Member discount only available with insurance policy from CAA Insurance Company (Ontario).

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28 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015 getty

Call of the NorthIn Thompson, the wolves are always with you in spirit, at least

First in a two-part series on a roadtrip to northern Manitoba

by Lea Currie

Made in Manitoba Book a stay at Thompsons Best Western and save 10% or more with

your CAA membership. Plus, earn 10 CAA Dollars on

qualified stays.

A s the car enters the city limits of Thompson, I can feel the eyes of the wolves following me into town. They sit on the rocks beside the highway and pose on the lawns of local businesses. Although naturally reclusive, these wolves are more than happy to sit pretty and pose for pic-tures. No, they havent been tamed; these are sculptures, an ode to the real wolves that reside in the boreal forests surrounding this northern community.

Thompson isnt the first city that comes to mind when Manitobans think about going on a roadtrip in our beautiful prairie province. It wasnt high on my list either until I discov-ered that Thompson has been designated the wolf capital of the world. The promise of a unique trip focused on wolves was enough to entice this animal lover into convincing my husband, Mark, to pack up the car and, leaving our own canine safe at home, head out on a summer adventure to the far north.

The wolf capital title is an intriguing choice due to the shyness of these creatures, which makes it difficult to assess the number of packs that call the Thompson area home. Centuries ago, wolves were commonplace around the northern hemisphere, but due to an unnecessary fear by humans popular fairy tales take much of the blame hunters caused their numbers to dwindle. The world wolf population is now most commonly found in Canada, with estimates ranging between 50,000 and 60,000. Although no number can be attached to Thompson spe-cifically, Manitoba is said to be home to 4,000 wolves (Stat: Manitoba Conservation), with the majority residing in boreal forest regions, like that surrounding Thompson, as well as tundra climates farther north.

Thanks to the lack of local farming and ranching, which can create animosity towards foraging wolves, the northern Manitoba com-munity doesnt have human/wolf conflicts that have caused the creatures to be feared and

hunted elsewhere. The areas aboriginal com-munity holds wolves in high regard, plus theres an abundance of natural prey in the area, such as caribou, deer, elk and moose.

While wolves have called the area home for hundreds of years, the city of Thompson was founded in 1958 when nickel was discovered. Despite the negative reputation of mining towns, Thompson has continued to thrive, thanks in large part to the nickel industry and

to the citys role as the Gateway to the North. It makes the perfect rest stop for people travel-ling to and from Churchill and other northern communities. Its due to the wolves, though, that Thompson is beginning to make its own tracks in Manitobas tourism landscape.

The alpha dog of Thompsons man-made wolf pack is a giant 10-storey-tall wolf mural that adorns the citys

Manitoba is home to some 4,000 wolves.

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lea currie s u m m er 2 015 | g o i n g p l a c e s 29

tallest building. Created in 2005 on a bland brown apartment complex, the mural forms a majestic presence on the Thompson skyline and has its own claim to fame as the worlds largest lighted mural. Driving down Mystery Lake Road, Im transfixed as the eyes of the dignified wolf seem to follow me. Its gaze is both intense and melancholy, sending chills down my spine on this hot summer day. It was this piece of mesmeric art that jump-started the push to spotlight Thompson as the wolf capital of the world.

The mural is an exact replica of a painting by esteemed Canadian wildlife artist and con-servationist Robert Bateman, reproduced in spray paint by Winnipeg artist Charlie John-son. It took Johnson six weeks to ensure every inch of the reproduction was a perfect match to Batemans original 45-centimetre painting. Up close, I marvel at the fine graduations of the wolfs fur. I can even see details of the tex-tured paper Bateman used for the original.

That [mural] changed everything, says Volker Beckmann, volunteer project director for Spirit Way and a passionate advocate for wolves. From there, the floodgates opened, he explains. Media, wolf organizations, uni-versities and researchers quickly took interest.

I had no idea that there was a worldwide infatuation and a worldwide controversy, says Beckmann, referring to the hunting of and continued hostility towards wolves in some countries, including the United States, Mexico and Sweden.

Soon after, wolf sculptures, similar to CancerCare Manitobas Bears on Broadway, were introduced. We stole the idea, admits Beckmann. There are now 53 sculptures in the pack, most of them placed around Thompson. Three were put on show in Churchill and 11 in Winnipeg. Geocaching enthusiasts can complete the province-wide wolf hunt and be certified a master wolf tracker, an opportunity that my husband, Mark, jumps on when Beckmann presents the passport to fill in.

Local artists have painted each of the wolf sculptures in a unique way, with themes rang-ing from the mining industry to the ancient stone landmarks known as inuksuit. Im capti-vated by one called Kakenathit Mahikon, by John Henry, who also painted the Manitoba Hydro mural on Portage Avenue in Winnipeg. This sculpture depicts the rich green boreal forest that serves as the wolf s backdrop. It seems fitting to portray this reclusive creature in its natural setting.

For the best views of the mural and sculp-tures, Beckmann takes us on the Spirit Way Trail (www.thompsonspiritway.ca), one of Travel Manitobas Star Attractions. Its a leisurely two- to three-hour walking tour (or cycling route) to various points of interest in Thompson. The tour begins at the Heritage North Museum, a quaint building that reminds me not to judge a book by its cover. Walking up to the museum, Im unimpressed with its size. Sure its cute, but I wonder how this tiny log cabin could possibly have earned its own Star Attraction designation. Im pleasantly sur-prised once I step inside; the museum and its staff have done an outstanding job of highlight-ing the north, including its wildlife, history and art. More first-rate sites and stories await along the Spirit Way Trail to the Burntwood River, among them a restored floatplane and a tribute to Thompsons world-class firefighters.

Im frankly surprised to find that the prov-inces third largest city has such an outstanding

history. It makes me proud to be a Manitoban. I suddenly feel as if Ive found a northern gem in this often ignored mining community.

With a strong history filled with rich aborig-inal culture, a strong mining industry and an abundance of natural beauty, Im curious about why wolves were chosen as the focus of the city. Unlike Churchills polar bears and beluga whales, these reclusive creatures cannot easily be seen by tourists. When I ask Beckmann, he is

to the citys role as the Gateway to the North. It makes the perfect rest stop for people travel-ling to and from Churchill and other northern communities. Its due to the wolves, though, that Thompson is beginning to make its own tracks in Manitobas tourism landscape.

The alpha dog of Thompsons man-made wolf pack is a giant 10-storey-tall wolf mural that adorns the citys

(clockwise from top) View from the Sasagui Rapids Lodges cabin on Setting Lake; some of the 39 wolf sculptures in town; Kakenathit Mahikon by John Henry; wolf mural as seen from Spirit Way Trail.


30 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015 lea currie (BOtH PageS)

Pisew Falls Provincial Park Not everything in Manitoba is fl at. Just outside of Thompson is Pisew Falls, the provinces second largest waterfall. Observation platforms provide stunning views of the Grass Rivers 13-metre drop. A short trail on the other side of the falls leads you to the Rotary Bridge for great views of the rivers quieter side.

Sasagiu Rapids The temper of the rapids can be seen near Sasagiu Rapids Provincial Park. However, skip this small park and instead get a good view of the raging rapids and experience some fi ery food to go with it at Sasagiu Rapids Lodge on Setting Lake. The lodges restaurant serves up Thai and Canadian cuisine that rivals eateries in

Winnipeg and Thailand thanks to Thitiworada Grandbois, a Thai native who now calls Manitoba home. www.sasagiurapids.com

Paint Lake Provincial Park Theres a little bit of everything here, from sandy beaches and vol-leyball courts to playgrounds and campsites. The name comes from the painted navigation markings that helped guide early aboriginals around the countless islands scat-tered throughout the lake.

Thompson Lodge & Ecotourism Centre From a quiet afternoon of birdwatching to the more adventurous cliff diving, youll fi nd a host of tours showcasing the various local and regional activities available. The riverfront lodge, located on the Burntwood River,

also features a beach, barbecue pit, bonfi re pit and spacious suites. www.thompsonlodge.ca

Tawipisim (Pathways to the Sun) A cluster of teepees overlooking the Burntwood River houses this aboriginal cultural tourism organiza-tion. Focused on promoting the native culture of northern Manitoba, it offers visitors singing and dancing workshops along with lessons in the art of beadworking and how to make a dreamcatcher. Enjoy home-made bannock while perusing aboriginal handicrafts for sale. www.tawipisim.com L.C.

Out and AboutTh e Th ompson area has more to o er than nickel. Th is northern gem is a great place to enjoy Manitobas dog days of summer.

A Tawipisim teepee.

Pisew Falls, the provinces second largest waterfall.


quick to agree that while the chances of seeing a real wolf in the wild are slim, there are other ways visitors can interact with them.

You dont have to see a wolf to experience a wolf, says Beckmann, showing his dedica-tion to both creating a wolf legacy and boost-ing Thompsons tourism industry. Hes referring to the opportunity for visitors to howl with wolves (up to 10 different messages are used to communicate with a wolf pack) and follow wolf tracks through their natural habitat (visit www.thompsonspiritway.ca to book with a guide). And soon, wildlife enthusi-asts will have the rare chance to see wolves up close at the world-class Boreal Discovery Cen-tre. Opening later this year on the site of the former Thompson Zoo, the centre will provide educational programs and recreational activi-ties reflecting the boreal forest and its resident animals, such as wolves but also caribou, lynx and owls. As someone who had never pre-viously considered Thompson as a destina-tion, Im now thinking about my next visit when the centre is fully operational.

I may not see a live wolf while in Thomp-son this time, but I have a new appreciation for the cautious canines and the northern city

thats giving them a voice. Its only after visit-ing and learning more about wolves that I real-ize how much my own childhood memories of Little Red Riding Hood and the Three Little Pigs gave me a skewed picture of wolves in the wild. The city of Thompson has successfully rid me of my Big Bad Prejudice. Im looking for-ward to giving my own domesticated canine an extra big hug when I get home. GP

The Heritage North Museum; one of its wildlife displays (below).


Friendly locals, glorious drives and good eating with a side of Gaelic avour await on Cape Breton Island

BY KAREN BURSHTEIN

CELTICTREASURE

The spectacular Cabot Trail winds for 300 kilometres along the scenic coast of Cape Breton Island.

32 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015 LArrY FiSHer/MASterFiLe

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34 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015 (tOP LeFt) cANAdiAN tOUriSM cOMMiSSiON, tOUriSM NOVA ScOtiA, (cANNONS) BArrett & MAcKAY/GettY iMAGeS

Anyone who has visited Nova Scotias island of Cape Breton has likely: a) found themselves at a local kitchen party play-ing spoons; b) felt a need for a Cape Breton-to-

English dictionary; c) regretted plans to drive the famous Cabot Trail in one day.

Lets take the last point first: Named for Italian explorer John Cabot, who sailed into this Atlantic region way back in 1497, the leg-endary Cabot Trail is a 300-kilometre coastal drive at the northern part of the island that off ers, seemingly, a superlative for every single one of those kilometres. Our rugged little gem, the locals call it.

You can do the loop in about six hours. But as one Cape Bretoner tells us, I always laugh when someone says theyre doing that. Youre

robbing yourself. Plan for two, and if you have the luxury, three days.

Youll fi nd any tips on Cape Breton Island travel served up with an irresistible add-on or two from friendly locals.

Once youre on the trail towards Ingonish on the east coast, Stop at the Dancing Moose Caf in Wreck Cove, advises a helpful

islander. Adds another new friend: If you go to Louisbourg, take the old back road to Gab-arus and Forchu, then get some Wandering Shepherd cheese. Defi nitely worth the stop.

Its overkill of the most charming variety, and you may want to toss your best-laid plans (along with your GPS) out the window. Espe-cially on the Cabot Trail. Youll learn there are

Hands-on HistoryHistory buffs can nd plenty to explore on Cape Breton Island, including these two must-see attractions. Handle with care: Cape Bretons most famous resident is immortalized

in the village of Baddeck at the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. The museums White Glove Tour offers a unique hands-on experience with some of Bells personal mementos. Youll also be invited to open up storage cabinets

and pull back the curtains protecting a wide variety of artifacts.www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/grahambell/index.aspxFire one: Ever red a cannon? Try it out any day throughout July and August at the Fortress of Louisbourg

National Historic Site. At this 18th-century fortress, youll learn enough French colonial artillery science to re an impressive cannon of several tonnes, capable of launching a can-nonball a distance of two kilometres. www.fortresso ouisbourg.ca

Ride the Cabot Trail in style on a Trafalgar

motorcoach tour. Contact CAA Travel at

204-262-6000 to pick the right trip for you.


s u m m er 2 015 | g o i n g p l a c e s 35

no wrong turns; the only parameter is where you want to spend each night.

The Cabot Trail loops around northern Cape Breton Island, following the western and eastern coastlines, then cutting through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The big question is whether to travel clockwise or counter-clockwise. Driving the route counter-clockwise (say, from Ingon-ish to Chticamp) may give you a better view of the spectacular ocean vistas along the way, and youll encounter less traffic, but its not for those averse to steep, curvy mountain drops.

Perhaps the most iconic bit of the trail is the stretch between Ingonish and Ch-ticamp. It rises and falls like a fiddle tune through forests and oceanside cliffs. Youll pass beaches and whale-watching spots where the whales are said to be lured by the Celtic music coming from quaint villages along the route.

When you reach Cape Breton Highlands National Park on the northern part of your drive, stretch your legs on one of 26 hiking trails. Its like walking through a painting corduroy green and spiky brown grass wav-ing over highland mountains, the colour scheme of a 19th-century gentlemans study. Best explored at sunset, the Skyline Trail is probably the most popular of the parks hikes, a path through boreal forest with a stunning view of the Atlantic Ocean 400

(opposite) Cape Breton Islands French colonial history comes to life at the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site; (above) newly opened Cabot Links is Canadas only authentic links-style course.


metres below, not to mention sightings of bald eagles, moose and whales.

All along the Cabot Trail, we encounter much to remind us of the Scottish countryside: dramatic highlands, rolling Gaelic Scottish accents. But there are differences here the picturesque scenery is punctuated by a lively mix of Acadian, Celtic and Gaelic cultures, sunny people (and climate: summer temperatures around 30 C are not unusual) and plenty of local wildlife sightings. Our Canada: Scotland with moose.

If You Go: Connected to mainland Nova Scotia by the Canso Causeway, Cape Breton Island is a two-hour drive from Inverness, or three-and-a-half from Halifax. The closest airport is in Sydney (about two hours from Ingonish).Where to Stay: The most popular entrance to

the Cabot Trail is at St. Anns Har-bour, where Chanterelle Country Inn & Cottages offers a lovely

place to rest your head before set-ting off (www.chanterelleinn.com).

In Chticamp, Maison Fiset House is a historic inn run by an old Cape Breton family (www.maisonfisethouse.com). In Inverness, true links golf, stylish accommodations and gourmet offerings await at the new Cabot Links (cabotlinks.com). Right Some Good Festival: See whats in store for this lively pop-up celebration of local food held at the end of summer at

www.rightsomegood.ca.Celtic Colours International Festival:

Now in its 19th year, this Celtic music and culture fest is always a draw. Held October 9 to 17 at venues across the island. www.celtic-colours.com

Hiking the Skyline Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park; (left) the annual Celtic Colours festival celebrates Cape Bretons music and culture.

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Th e well-travelled Cabot Trail aside, other familiar aspects of Cape Breton are being celebrated anew these days, thanks to new initiatives.

Golf has long been an island draw, and Highland Links in Ingonish is one of North Americas top-rated courses. Now, you can also test your skill at the new Cabot Links golf course in Inverness before relaxing at the adjoining boutique hotel. Opened in 2012, Cabot Links has already landed on Golf Digests list of the worlds top 100 courses, being the


SIGNLIFE

38 g o i n g p l a c e s | s u m m er 2 015

only authentic links golf course (seaside, sand, undulating terrain) in all of Canada.

For many, golf and whisky make the per-fect blend, which means a must-stop at Gle-nora Distillery in Glenville. Producers of Canadas only single-malt whisky, the distill-ery offers tours of its traditional-method whisky-making process, with right-out-of-the-barrel tastings (drivers, of course, will just want to sniff , not sip).

Another great source of pride for Cape Bretoners, the island boasts the only living Celtic culture in North America. Th e strong link to their Scottish and Irish heritage is as much due to the islanders isolation as to the outside worlds appreciation for Cape Breton musicians like Natalie MacMaster, Rita Mac-Neil and Ashley MacIsaac.

While youre sure to stumble upon any number of formal fi ddling concerts across the island in summer, try to get to a kitchen party or ceilidh, one of the best cultural takeaways. Th ink of them as family-style raves for the fi ddling set and theyre not hard to come by. At the end of one fi ddling concert in Inverness, a gentleman standing next to us tells us where the kitchen party is happening. Next thing we know, were in, spoons in hand joining the Celtic jam.

Th e music is easier to join in on than the language: Gway wit ya. Hows she goin bye. Jeet. The singular Cape Breton expressions take some explaining.

Right some good (an adjective like awe-some) becomes our favourite, though, because the expression is the name given to


(iNGONiSH) iStOcK, KAreN BUrSHteiN s u m m er 2 015 | g o i n g p l a c e s 39

the islands foodie festival. Held at the end of summer, Right Some Good is a weeklong series of pop-up dinners that commands international culinary names, happy to rise to the challenge of creating dishes from famed Nova Scotia lobsters and local ingredients like fi ddleheads and sea cucumbers.

Th e series of culinary events is staged at unexpected venues that showcase the islands natural beauty, history and culture such as on a beach, the rooftop of the Alexander Graham Bell museum, or the 12th hole of Cabot Links. In fact, the latter was the site of one of the festivals more memorable glitches in 2013: by the fifth course, dessert chefs were prepping on their knees because the table had sunk into the sand.

Spread over the island, the festival is a true

(top) Fishing the waters in stops like Ingonish yields an abundance of fresh seafood, including (above) legendary Nova Scotia lobster.

(top) Fishing the waters in stops like Ingonish yields an abundance of fresh


tOUriSM NOVA ScOtiA s u m m er 2 015 | g o i n g p l a c e s 41

moveable feast, designed to give visitors and locals a taste of all that Cape Breton has to off er. Right Some Good was launched by local Pearleen Mofford in 2010, with the goal of turning her island into an international culi-nary destination.

In fact, its Mofford who offers up our favourite Cape Breton tip: I really encourage you to take the old Cabot route to White Point and eventually to Cape North where youll get to a small fi shing village with a spectacular view and a four-mile beach. And, she adds, pausing for eff ect, Th ats where youre going to fi nd the best lobster in the world.

Sold. GP

Some 16 species of whales ply the waters off Cape Breton Island (shown, Pleasant Bay).

Exclusive travel tips from CAA

End of the line. An off-the-beaten-path spot to visit on Cape Breton Island is Meat Cove,

located on the northern tip. The stunning view of the Gulf of St. Lawrence against the rugged

coastline is worth the extra time away from the Cabot Trail.

Sue Blair, CAA Travel Consultant

Visit Sue at our McPhillips Service Centre or call 204-262-6000/1-800-222-4357 for

more travel tips.


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S U M M ER 2 015 | G O I N G P L A C E S 43

OKANAGAN WINE CULTURE exploded from a tiny cluster

of vineyards 20 years ago into an internationally recognized appellation with more than 120 wineries. With world-class vintages, food pairing

spurred by acclaimed chefs and a host of new wine country

accommodations, its no wonder that the Hu ngton Post has

named the Okanagan Valley the No. 1 wine destination in

the world. Here are some must-sees, must-sips and must-eats of the three major Okanagan

wine regions.

An Insiders Guide to

Okanagan Wine Country

by Laurie Carter

Planning on bringing a few mementos

back? Protect that bottle of vino with a Vinni bag from a

CAA Manitoba service centre or visit

shop.caamanitoba.com.


44 G O I N G P L A C E S | S U M M ER 2 015

MT. BOUCHERIE

QUAILS GATE

Lake CountryHome to Gray Monk Estate Winery (left), pioneers in the valley wine industry who work with some of the lesser-known varietals like Ehrenfelser, Lake Country is also the place to look for hidden gems. Take Intrigue Wines with its Riesling from the Two Wongs Make a White vineyard, and 50th Parallel Estate Winery, where youll want to sample the Pinots. e Pinot Noir is a blend of the winerys own estate grape clones while the Pinot Gris is a bright, medium-bodied white.

Explore the roots of the wine industry in Kelownas Cultural District. e wine boutique for Calona Vineyards, B.C.s oldest winery (opened in 1932), is located on the Downtown Trail near the BC Wine Museum & VQA Wine Shop (below) check out 600 wines from 90-plus wineries. Nearby, the newly renovated Sandhill Winery showcases the single-vineyard creations of winemaker Howard Soon.

East Kelowna Fab Five Trail and the Lakeshore Trail

Westside Trail

Mount Boucheries volcanic soil avours many of the wines created by Westside Trail wineries. Put Quails Gate (above) on your must-sip list. Tours at this sophisticated destination winery start from the Allison House log cabin, built in 1873, and nish in the ultra-chic wine shop overlooking the lake. Give their full-bodied Merlot a go, then drive on to lesser-known Mt. Boucherie Estate for the silky, medium-bodied Summit Red Blend.

KELOWNAAll grown up with skyline towers, high-tech industry, trendy shops and celebrated chefs, Kelowna anchors ve wine touring trails on the shores of Okanagan Lake.

Downtown Trail

CALONA

BC WINE MUSEUM

GRAY MONK

50TH PARALLEL

TANTALUS

SUMMERHILL

CEDARCREEK

KELOWNA

EAT & STAY

Start your Kelowna day with a salmon B.C. Bennie at The Boh (Bohemian Caf) in the heart of downtown. Schedule lunch across the lake at Mission Hills open-air Terrace Restaurant, where food presentation is as spectacular as the view. Each years fresh menu re ects the cuisine du terroir, featuring local, in-season ingredients. Try a selection to pair with Mission Hills international award-winning S.L.C. Syrah. Dinner is a tough choice between Waterfront Wines Paci c Northwest cuisine (below) or

French fare with the prix- xe Chefs Table at neighbouring Bouchons Bistro. Before you turn in at the cosy boutique Hotel Eldorado, soak in the sunset glow on The Els lakeside boardwalk locals vote for best patio dining in Kelowna and order a liquid dessert like Optima from The View Winery. Not as thick or sweet as icewine, this smooth sip will make you mellow.

Close to the city, the Fab Five Trail nestles among orchards to the east while the Lakeshore Trail includes vineyards cascading down the sunset slopes. Here, Tantalus Vineyards (above) is renowned for its Old Vines Riesling and youll want to sample CedarCreek Estate Winerys multi award-winning Platinum Pinot Noir. Summerhill tops out the quirk-o-meter with its scaled-down Pyramid of Cheops where many of their organic vintages are barrel-aged. Famous for its sparkling wines, if youve got deep pockets, try Summerhills Cipes Ariel ($88).



CALONA

BC WINE MUSEUM

GRAY MONK

50TH PARALLEL

TANTALUS

SUMMERHILL

CEDARCREEK

KETTLE VALLEY

LAKE BREEZE

FOXTROT

HOWLING BLUFF

RED ROOSTER

LA FRENZ

PENTICTON & WINE COUNTRY VISITOR CENTRE

DIRTY LAUNDRY

SEE YA LATER RANCH

UPPER BENCH WINERY & CREAMERY

Swirl, Sni , Sip and Spit

e WineriesWith so many wineries in this area its hard to work out an itinerary, but heres a start. Head to Dirty Laundry Vineyards patio and, while you wait for the historic Kettle Valley steam train to whistle into sight, sip a glass of Bordello, their naughty, aromatic big red blend. At See Ya Later Ranch, high above Okanagan Falls, raise a glass of complex, full-bodied Ping Meritage. On the Naramata Bench, youll get an eyeful with the art collection at Red Rooster. But keep your head and remember to sample the Reserve Viognier. One of the lesser-known white varietals, this medium-bodied wine will make you a fan. Dont miss Lake Breeze (above), where you can pair the premium

Seven Poplars Chardonnay with a bite in the garden-lined Patio Restaurant; La Frenz with its big red Bordeaux blend, Grand Total Reserve; or Lang Vineyards for its juicy, o -dry Riesling Farm Reserve or Marechal Foch, made from 50-year-old estate-grown grapes. Also look in on little gems such as Upper Bench Winery & Creamery with its hand-

crafted cheeses; Township 7 for its hearty Bordeaux blend, Reserve 7; and family-owned wineries such as Howling Blu Estate with its oral and fruity Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend if its not sold out and Foxtrot Vineyards, known for its premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

PENTICTON AND NARAMATAStraddling the narrow strip between Okanagan and Skaha lakes, Penticton is all about hot sand beaches and cool water sports. Ideally located for wine touring, this compact city is the gateway to three major regions: Summerlands Bottleneck Drive, Okanagan Falls Corkscrew Drive and the renowned Naramata Bench.

PENTICTON

NARAMATA

EAT & STAY

Try to time your visit for Saturday morning when the north end of Main Street morphs into the pedestrian-friendly Penticton Farmers Market, ideal for a grazing brunch. Locals swear by the piled-high deli sandwiches at Il Vecchio Delicatessen for lunch, while a hybrid paella, stuffed with extra seafood like scallops, is featured on the Vanilla Pod (left) menu at

Poplar Grove Winery for both lunch and dinner ($26/$34). If youre into global fusion, book ahead for the food, entertain-ment and ambiance of the Dream Caf before snuggling into the period

elegance of the Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa, about a 20-minute drive north of Penticton.

EAT & STAY

Start your Kelowna day with a salmon B.C. Bennie at The Boh (Bohemian Caf) in the heart of downtown. Schedule lunch across the lake at Mission Hills open-air Terrace Restaurant, where food presentation is as spectacular as the view. Each years fresh menu re ects the cuisine du terroir, featuring local, in-season ingredients. Try a selection to pair with Mission Hills international award-winning S.L.C. Syrah. Dinner is a tough choice between Waterfront Wines Paci c Northwest cuisine (below) or

French fare with the prix- xe Chefs Table at neighbouring Bouchons Bistro. Before you turn in at the cosy boutique Hotel Eldorado, soak in the sunset glow on The Els lakeside boardwalk locals vote for best patio dining in Kelowna and order a liquid dessert like Optima from The View Winery. Not as thick or sweet as icewine, this smooth sip will make you mellow.

Tasting newbies should be sure to hit the BC VQA Wine Information Centre in Penticton (left), where sta will teach you to swirl-sni -sip and spit. You may be shy about spewing a mouthful of premium plonk, but demonstrate that you can spit like a pro and a winemaker might just pull out something really special from under the counter.


Osoyoos Lake Bench e NkMip complex (left) encompasses NkMip Cellars the rst aboriginal-owned and operated winery in North America and the NkMip Desert Cultural Centre. Gain insight into the Okanagan First Nations people on a

guided tour of the endangered antelope brush ecosystem, then treat yourself to the classic Merriym Meritage. Nearby, Moon Curser Vineyards plays up a local legend about gold smugglers foiled by the light of the moon. Afraid of the Dark is their white Rhone-style blend.



OLIVER AND OSOYOOSSmell the sagebrush! Youre in the dry south, land of big Okanagan reds. Between Oliver and Osoyoos, the Okanagan River divides the Golden Mile on the western slope from the Black Sage Bench to the east. A third group of wineries rim Osoyoos Lake on the Osoyoos Bench, while options north of Oliver include the mother-daughter-run Cana Vines.

Osoyoos Lake Bench

e Black Sage Bench

e NkMip complex (left) encompasses NkMip Cellars the rst aboriginal-owned and operated winery in North America and the NkMip Desert Cultural Centre. Gain insight into the Okanagan First Nations people on a

guided tour of the endangered antelope brush ecosystem, then treat yourself to the classic Merriym Meritage. Nearby, Moon Curser Vineyards plays up a local legend about gold smugglers foiled by the light of the moon. Afraid of the Dark is their white Rhone-style blend.

EAT & STAY

RUSTICO FARM & CELLARS

TINHORN CREEK

ROAD 13

GEHRINGER BROTHERS

QUINTA FERREIRA

BLACK HILLS

BURROWING OWL

NKMIP

MOON CURSEROSOYOOS

Pair your Tinhorn Creek tasting with a hike to the historic ruins of the Tinhorn Creek mine stamp mill on the Golden Mile Trail or take in a summer concert at Tinhorns grassy amphitheatre. Next door, Gehringer Brothers is known for its whites. Storm the castle tasting room at Road 13 Vineyards to sample their Jackpot series, including the honey- avoured Chardonnay and the Southern Rhone-style Viognier Roussanne Marsanne. For pure quirk-value, check out the squared-timber, sod-roofed heritage home at Rustico Farm & Cellars, once the bunkhouse of the Sally Silver Mine.

Across the valley on the Black Sage Bench, take the self-guided tour of Burrowing Owls bell tower to learn about the winerys role in saving the eponymous endangered species. en indulge in their full-bodied Meritage and Syrah. Youll nd more memorable reds at Portuguese-style Quinta Ferreira where the award-festooned Obra-Prima will ll your mouth with avours like black cherry, co ee and vanilla. But probably the best known of all the Okanagan reds is Black Hills (above) legendary Nota Bene. You may only be able to nd it in restaurants known for their wine cellars; instead, console yourself with their seductive Syrah. GP

e Golden Mile

With all that wine, youre going to n

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Going Places - CAA Magazine - Summer 2015

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