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FALL 2011 Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree
Transcript

F a l l 2 0 1 1

Grande Dame Grande Dame

Nathalie Dupree

PresidentSANDY HU PrincipalSandy Hu Food Marketing LLC380 Roosevelt WaySan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-1765 (w)(415) 533-5653 (c)[email protected]

First Vice PresidentMARY S. MOORE Founder/CEOThe Cook’s Warehouse1075 Zonolite Road, NE, Suite 1-CAtlanta, GA 30306(404) 492-9018 (w)(404) 374-6740 (c)[email protected]

Second Vice PresidentSUSAN FULLER SLACK C.C.P. Food Writer/Culinary EducatorCulinary Bouquets116 Hurlingham DriveColumbia, SC 29223(803) 736-7103 (w)(803) 917-8837 (c)[email protected]

Third Vice PresidentBRENDA MCDOWELL PresidentM&P Food Communications, Inc.200 E. Delaware, 7-CChicago, IL 60611(312) 201-9101 (w)(312) 485-5783 (c)[email protected]

SecretaryDOROTHY R. KOTESKI Professor, Allied Health DepartmentCommunity College of Philadelphia27 Cooper Run DriveCherry Hill, NJ 08003-2244(856) 489-0052 (h)(609)-206-8233 (c) [email protected]

TreasurerKATHLEEN PERRY the everyday gourmet®2950 Mt. Wilkinson Parkway,SE, #503Atlanta, GA 30339(770) 801-9436 (w)(770) 845-8438 (c)[email protected]

Chapter Board LiaisonsJANET BURGESS Culinary Adventures San Diego6267 Lake Lucerne DriveSan Diego, CA 92119(619) 463-7576 (w)(619) 274-4013 (c)[email protected] SHARON VAN METER President, SVM ProductionsMilestone Culinary Arts Center4531 McKinney AvenueDallas, TX 75202(214) 217-2819(469) [email protected] MARY ELLEN GRIFFIN Partner, Continental Consulting Group320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58Stamford, CT 06902(203) 975 7610 (w)(203) 273 8824 (c)maryellengriffi [email protected]

Immediate Past PresidentTERESA J. FARNEY C.H.E., C.C.P. Food Editor, The Gazette7220 Delmonico DriveColorado Springs, CO 80919(719) 636-0271 (w)(719) 330-3353 (c)[email protected]

Executive DirectorGREG JEWELL President, AEC Management ResourcesP.O. Box 4961Louisville, KY 40204(502) 456-1851 x1(502) [email protected]

Th ere Is Nothing Like a Dame!Nothing makes the earth seem so spacious as to have friends at a distance;

they make the latitudes and longitudes. Henry David Th oreauTh ere’s a lot to read about in the Fall Quarterly! We salute the 25th

anniversary of lDeI, celebrate Nathalie Dupree (Charleston) as our new Grande Dame, and showcase recent events from three chapters: london, Charleston and Washington D.C.

Th e Quarterly editor works closely with the members and friends of lDeI, investing time in their interests. During my three-year tenure as editor and international board member, it has been a privilege to meet extraordinary Dames from 28 chapters. as a result, two new columns have been added: Th e Global Culinary Post Card, which brings Dames closer together around the global dinner table and We-Belong, the place to share a meaningful excerpt from your personal blog and tell what’s on your mind.

It’s also a season of change, as the 2012 board of directors takes the helm. It’s challenging to manage Quarterly responsibilities with profes-sional and personal obligations, so in a vote of confi dence, the board of directors invited me to partner with CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.) as co-editors next year. In sharing caretaking duties, we have a strong common vision and promise to keep the conversation stimulat-ing! you are the “voice” of lDeI so tell us more about you and your chapter activities for upcoming issues. CiCi’s Winter issue highlights recent conference activities in atlanta, and as for me, I’m dreaming about spring!

Heartfelt thanks go to advisors CiCi and 2011 President Sandy Hu (San Francisco) for being consistently supportive and maintaining a sense of humor. also, to the forward-thinking lDeI board members and to executive Director Greg Jewell and his effi cient staff . Th anks to Department editors Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) and Chandra Ram (Chicago) and the “quiet “volunteers behind the scenes: veteran proofer Jane Mengenhauser (Washington D.C.) and Lori Willis (St. louis). Very special thanks to our exceptional Indiana design team, Bernie Mudd and Joni Keith. It’s also important to say thank you to the talented editors who left their mark before me; your contributions make the Quarterly a better magazine.

Th ree years ago, long-time friend Katherine Newell Smith (Wash-ington D.C.) asked if I would take on the Quarterly editor’s job. as a new Dame, this was unexpected and I worried about fi lling “big shoes.” But how does one say no to Katherine? I am glad I didn’t try. She gave me the extraordinary gift of learning a little bit more about what I'm made of. Never mind limits! Not only should we set goals and meet them, but also, we should try to surpass them by a mile. Th anks Katherine! Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

F A L L • 2 O 1 1F A L L • 2 O 1 1

IN TH IS ISSUE

The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters.  It provides guidance, education, connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members.

FEATURES 4-5 25th Anniversary LDEI

6-10 Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree

11 Member Blogs

12-13 DFV Wines Introduce HandCraft

14-15 Board Meeting in St. Louis

16-17 London Dames Host

Great Kitchen Clear-Out

18-19 Charleston's Autumn Affair

20-21 Washington D.C. French Dinner

22 Global Culinary Postcard DEPARTMENTS

3 President’s Message

23-26 Chapter News 27 Member Milestones

30 Submission Guidelines

2 0 1 1 LD E I BOARD O F D I RECTORS

2 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l2 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Th ere’s nothing more meaningful than friendships forged over a year working together in common cause. I treasure the opportunities I’ve had to collaborate with Dames across ge-ographies who have given so generously of their time, talents, wisdom and professional expertise. And as the board year comes to a close, I want to thank them and you for having allowed me this remarkable privilege.

Th is fall marks the 25th anniversary of the founding of les Dames d’escoffi er International and the atlanta conference is our 24th annual gathering. We are the heirs to a rich and illustrious heritage – a heri-tage that is retold in an article by Katherine Newell Smith (Washing-ton, D.C.) in this issue of the Quarterly. It’s a story of Dames with a shared vision and a desire to eff ect

change. It refl ects a powerful, can-do attitude that gave birth to lDeI and nurtured it, and the many Dames who have carried this spirit forward, until we are now 1,500 members strong across 28 chapters in the u.S., Canada and Great Britain.While our structure is as a bottoms-up organization comprised of

autonomous chapters, the lDeI Board is the unifying force that knits our chapters together. We are not merely disparate groups of food professionals who belong to a local organization. We are more. as a unifi ed international body, our collective infl uence extends beyond our local borders. Th e board helps to defi ne what it means to be a Dame by working

with the chapters to determine who we honor and what initiatives we support collectively. Th e board sets policies and procedures that ensure constancy and consistency. Th e board is also responsible for producing an annual conference as a spirited gathering that allows Dames from all chapters to connect with each other and to learn and grow both personally and professionally from the experience.Th is year, our warmest thanks go to the atlanta Chapter and confer-

ence co-chairs, Dana Dabruzzi and Carolyn O’Neil, for the endless hours of thought and planning, for leveraging their personal connec-tions and resources, and for their magnifi cent eff orts to ensure a seam-less execution and a fabulous conference experience.We thank our partners whose generosity makes lDeI possible and we

look forward to learning more about their products and services, as we engage with them throughout the year.I want to thank the lDeI board. Mary Moore (atlanta), our fi rst

vice president, has broken all records in partnership support, working with our director of development Susan Weinstein (Miami). Second vice president Susan Slack (Charleston) has edited the Quarterly for the past three years as a volunteer, a job that is so daunting in its de-mands that we have turned it into a paid position for next year. Susan will continue to helm the Quarterly with CiCi Williamson (Washing-ton, D.C.) as co-editor.Th ird vice president Brenda McDowell developed our fi rst lDeI

food trends survey to showcase the collective insight of Dames. She has also developed our social media strategy so we can begin to unleash the infl uence of each Dame’s social media relationships to spread news about lDeI.Secretary Dottie Koteski has been our liaison for new chapter

outreach and is helping to guide our strategy for future growth. She

ensures that the minutes are accurate and is a touchstone on tone in all communications. For the past two years, Dottie has secured an invita-tion for the lDeI president to attend the conference of the american Dietetic association.treasurer Kathleen Perry has ensured that our fi nancial systems

and practices are in order. and she has singlehandedly conceived and spearheaded an eff ort to create and sell lDeI caps as a fundraiser to enhance our revenues.Th e three directors at large are invaluable as our conduit to the chap-

ters, sharing news from the board to the chapters and chapter news back to the board. to better refl ect their responsibilities, we have given the Dals a new name: chapter board liaison. Our CBls who served so splendidly this year were Mary Ellen Griffi th (New york), Janet Bur-gess (San Diego) and Sharon Van Meter (Dallas). Sharon also took on double duty, volunteering to chair this year’s auction, using her staff at SVM Productions to support her indefatigable eff orts. Our immediate past president Teresa Farney (Colorado) has been

a wise counsel and provided valuable continuity. She has also been a liaison to our past presidents.Committees keep our programs running and vibrant. I’d like to thank

Suzanne Brown (atlanta), chair of the Global Culinary Initiative, and her committee; co-chairs Barbara Petit (atlanta) and Laura Sapienza-Grabski (Northeast) and the Green tables Committee; Lila Gault (New york) and the legacy awards committee, lila again and the nominating committee; and Brenda McDowell and the Pr committee. I would also like to thank our past presidents for reviewing and vetting the Grande Dame nominations.I want to give special thanks to Greg Jewell, our executive director,

who is celebrating his 10th anniversary with lDeI this year. you may appreciate Greg for keeping the trains running on time but he is also an invaluable counselor to the board who truly understands the heart of our organization and our people. and, he manages to maintain a sense of humor in the best and worst of times.Finally, the goal of each incoming board should be to strive at doing

better than the outgoing board. each year, we need to up our game. I have no doubt that our dynamic new president, Mary Moore (atlanta) and her new board will do just that.

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 3

Working Together

4 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l4 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

lDeI’s

4

“On October 27, 1986, LDEI was offi cially launched at a gala dinner in the lobby of the New York Daily News, next to the world's largest indoor globe. It was an appropriate backdrop to commemorate the growing 225-member organization.”

Celebrating 25 years of History

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 5

hat were you doing

in 1973? That year Secretariat won

the triple Crown, the Watergate scandal erupt-

ed and the first portable cell phone call was made in

New york City. It was also the year Carol Brock received the charter for the New york branch of the les amis d’escoffier Society. Her idea was to organize the first-ever professional group of women in the food and wine industries.“I was a member of Home economists in Business,”

Carol says.”and I saw what networking and monthly meetings could do. It was empowering. But I wanted to offer more and, frankly, to do it better than the men in the food industry. and I wanted it to be lady-like and do it with elegance.”Carol’s first challenge was to find 50 members in

New york. Women in management in our industries then were scarce. It took Carol three years to gather enough names. So Carol took her blank 3”x5” cards to every food event and asked for names of outstand-ing women in the field.She later formed a task force to help fine-tune the

concept: Mary Lyons, marketing and communica-tions director, Foods and Wines from France; Elayne Kleeman, who created the first u.S. wine auction at Heublein; Helene Bennett, executive director, Wine and Food Society; Beverly Barbour, international marketing and public relations, and Ella Elvin, food editor, New york Daily News.Initially, the group planned to form an association

to provide education and networking opportunities. even then, they decided to form an international organization as soon as there were five chapters.On November 8, 1976, les Dames escoffier/ New

york held its first gala and investiture at the French Consulate. Dames welcomed 50 food-and-wine pro-fessionals as new members. Halston designed the servi-ettes; tiffany designed the silver napkin rings/bracelets as well as the original les Dames d’escoffier logo. (The present wheat-and-grape logo, commissioned by the Washington, D.C. chapter in 1982, was adopted by lDeI in 1991.) Photographs of the group were taken on the grand staircase. elegant, indeed!early on, lDe/Ny began to hold Op eds: Opera-

tion education, with monthly speakers. also, when a renowned person came through town, a breakfast was scheduled.

“In the first or second year,” Carol recalls,” Dame Frances Low arranged for three internships aboard a cruise ship for young female culinary students. Sara Moulton was one of those recipients.”Thus, providing women with internships and

scholarship support was incorporated into Dames’ mission.By 1984, the five chapters needed for an interna-

tional organization had been established: New york (1976), Washington, D.C. (1981), Chicago (1982), Dallas (1984) and Philadelphia (1984). Over the next two years, the chapter presidents constructed the framework for the new organization. On October 27, 1986, lDeI was officially launched at a gala dinner in the lobby of the New york Daily News, next to the world's largest indoor globe. It was an appropriate backdrop to commemorate the growing 225-member organization.twenty-five years later, with over 1,500 distin-

guished members from various disciplines in 28 chapters in the u.S., Canada and Great Britain, Carol’s original vision for Dames has expanded. lDeI has established a Grande Dame award to recognize influential women in our fields, the M.F.K. Fisher award for excellence in Culinary Writing and the legacy awards, which offers one-week intensive work/study opportunities to deserving women. The Green tables (garden-to-table) Initiative has

energized our chapters and tapped in to a growing interest among members. Many chapter activities now include public education programs as well as scholarships, grants and internships. Most chapters have added more community service as well.“I find our Green tables Initiative tremendously

exciting.” Carol reflects. “It is wonderful what we are doing with children. I never thought of that aspect for our organization.” The new Global Culinary Initiative embraces our

cultural diversities and fosters international under-standing through food. Chapters are actively working in communities on projects that encourage building cross-cultural relationships.Beyond all the money we have raised and the public

services we have performed, Carol’s true gift has been the opportunity to form lasting, significant bonds between members. We know who we can count on for support, personally and professionally. We just need to ask.Indeed, lDeI and its member chapters continue to

build on Carol’s dream, enthusiasm and perseverance and, no doubt, do so better than the guys.

As Les Dames d’Escoffier reaches its 25th year anniversary, Katherine Newell Smith takes a look back at the organization’s founding.

photo of KNS: Hayley Matson-Mathes

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 5

6 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l6 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Grande Dame

Nathalie Dupree has created the perfect recipe for a successful, well-balanced culinary career. Th e ingredients include her roles as teacher, author, and tV cooking show host. Th is year she was recognized for her accomplishments and achievements with the Grande Dame award from les Dames d’escoffi er

Grande Dame

Nathalie Dupree

NComPiled By Virginia Willis (atlanta)

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 7F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 7

International. Host of over 300 top-rated television cooking shows airing on PBS, Th e learning Channel, and the television Food Network, Nathalie’s success is a combination of her easy and practical food expertise combined with a warm, inviting personality.

8 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

The author of eleven cookbooks, Nathalie has won two James Beard awards and one International association of Culinary Professional award. She has written food articles for the Charleston Magazine, The Charleston Post and Courier, Los Angeles Times, Atlanta Journal-Constitu-tion, Traditional Home, Atlanta magazine, the Washington Post and Cook’s magazine among other well know publications. Her first cooking stint was in 1959, when the cook in her boarding

house, Harvard Street Cooperative in Cambridge, Massachusetts, got sick. after several colossal nights of near-failures, she fed 18 people un-til the cook returned. at that time, she told her mother she wanted to be a cook. Her mother said, “ladies don’t cook.” She embellished her statement with the fact that Nathalie would have to work at night, with men, lift heavy pots, and suffer abusive attitudes. She relented enough to tell Nathalie if she could find one woman chef to talk to, she could consider pursuing it as a job. There was not one female chef Nathalie could find to talk to in 1959.after receiving an advanced certificate from london’s Cordon Bleu,

Nathalie started her restaurant career as a chef in Majorca, Spain. She later moved to Social Circle, Georgia and started the “New Southern Cooking Movement” in the early 1970’s by blending regional ingredi-ents with French and Southern cooking techniques. She grew much of her food as well as purchased it from local farmers and butchers. She later opened another regional restaurant in richmond, Virginia, for the Marriott Corporation, also called Nathalie’s. She founded rich’s Cooking School in 1975, where she served as chef,

instructor, and director for more than a decade, teaching over 10,000 students. Her enthusiasm to teach generations of followers how to cook has been

the shining light in her more than 30 years as cookbook author, tV and radio cooking show host, restaurateur, instructor, and champion for get-ting the word out on the benefits of being in the kitchen. Nathalie has what she calls her “little chickens” referencing her brood

of students and interns. Many of them are now in their own food en-terprises as chefs, writers, cooking school operators, and tV personali-ties, counting among them atlanta Dames Shirley Corriher, Virginia Willis, and Rebecca Lang, all of whom she says exceed her in their impressive works and give her great pride. Incoming lDeI President Mary Moore (atlanta) states, “Nathalie is

a true leader and inspiration in our industry. From teaching many in atlanta through the rich’s cooking school to teaching many nation-ally through her tV shows and cookbooks, Nathalie has made cooking easy and approachable. Her easy-going and inviting style has given her students the confidence to cook. and, her openness and willingness to teach others in the industry have provided a great foundation and opportunities for those who worked with her. She has many grateful ‘chickens’.”Most notably, Nathalie is a generous teacher, dedicated mentor and

enthusiastic supporter. atlanta Conference Co-chair Carolyn O’Neil says,” Nathalie knows how to bring people together for a cause. Whether it's helping a friend in need, a student needing inspiration or a gathering of women to establish a new chapter of les Dames d'escoffier, Nathalie is a leader building bridges to connect people with projects. Her biscuits are pretty darn good too! There's a natural aura of honesty and hospitality around Nathalie Dupree. Her relaxed elegance is a quality easy to love, but not simple to emulate. Whether it's another recipe, another cookbook, another television performance, another speech or another friendship - Nathalie shares her enthusiasm for and derives great joy from building something new.”Because of her extraordinary and unique contributions to the culinary

field through innovation, education, and mentorship Nathalie Dupree is truly worthy of the honorary title lDeI Grande Dame.

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Nathalie with culinary students at The Art Institute of Charleston.Nathalie's rolling pin collection.Dining with the Charleston Dames.

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 9

By CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.)

CiCi wrote about a biscuit-making demonstration that Nathalie gave during a conference session for the Association of Food Journal-ists. Th is brief excerpt is sure to whet your appétit!"Snap, snap, snap" is the motion to use when incorporating

shortening into fl our to ensure a fl aky biscuit, explained televi-sion chef Nathalie Dupree, author of the recently published Southern Biscuits. “If you said ‘cut in the shortening,’ my hus-band would go get scissors,” she quipped. Where does the “snap” come in? From your fi ngers, as Nathalie

demonstrated. apparently, you must get your hands in the dough to make a great Southern biscuit. Someone said she was told to use a pastry blender and not use your hands. Nathalie replied, "I don't want to say you've been lied to, but you don't have to use one. Th e dough gets stuck in the wires of the pastry blender, and besides, you must feel the texture of the dough with your hands."Southern fl our? “White lily is like precious gold to us. South-

ern fl our is lower in gluten and it makes tender biscuits. Our Piggly Wiggly grocery chain has 15 types of fl our available. In addition to White lily, we use red Band, Southern Biscuit, and Martha White. In a pinch, you can use cake fl our. But don't use King arthur fl our for biscuits; it has too much gluten – better for bread.” She has found that bleached is better than unbleached fl our for biscuits because they're more tender and come out white.today Nathalie is using only two ingredients to make a simple

biscuit recipe: self-rising fl our and goat milk yogurt, because that’s the kind she had in the refrigerator. yogurt has acid and assumes the role of the buttermilk. “everyone keeps yogurt on hand, but many people don't want to buy a quart of buttermilk because they don't know what to do with what's left from mak-ing a batch of biscuits,” she believes. “I’m showing easy biscuits because we want people to learn to

feel the dough. Go into your kitchen, lock the door, and practice making biscuits. every biscuit is made by feel.” Th e generation Nathalie really wants to learn biscuit making is teenagers. “Hey, use Coca Cola or ginger ale for the liquid because that's what college kids have around.”Editor’s Note: CiCi shared additional tips from Nathalie: avoid

lowfat or nonfat yogurt in this recipe since it doesn’t contain shortening; aerate the fl our by stirring it with a whisk before careful measuring and roll the moist, sticky dough out on a fl exible cutting board so it can be easily folded over. (When baked, the biscuits will split nicely.) For tender biscuits, Nathalie suggests arranging them close together in a small cake or pie pan. and fi nally, to remove the sticky dough from your hands, rub them in dry fl our.

Th e wonders of

Southern Biscuits

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F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 9

More info online at ldei.org

Visit www.ldei.org/ for a copy of Nathalie's biscuit recipe. 

10 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

The property surrounding the Charleston “Single House” where Nathalie Dupree and husband Jack Bass live is an edible landscape, designed with beauty and dining in mind. lush herbs and vibrant edible flowers are integrated into the front yard, creating a warm, welcoming tapestry. The garden thrives year-round in the temperate climate of the lowcoun-try and is a living extension of Nathalie’s Southern kitchen - the heart of her home.In a daily ritual, Nathalie visits

the garden to pick up the early morning newspaper. She breathes deeply and is “energized for the day” by the intoxicating aromas that surround her. She revels in the fragrance of “fennel that runs riot,” of marjoram’s snappy scent and of the thyme that spills over planters and creeps along the ground. a spicy, aromatic bay tree resides

in the garden, along with two olive trees that tower high above the garden wall. leafy banana trees, Meyer lemon trees and a Thai lime tree with double-lobed, scented leaves flourish in a side-garden that runs along the columned piazza (veranda). The lovely space serves as an outdoor room.Foliage and seasonal veggies co-exist peacefully with the

herbs and flowers. Nathalie she says her front yard may be the only one in Charleston growing turnips. The charm of it all makes you want to sit down on the piazza for a spell, and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings.In england, Nathalie tended herb gardens at cooking school

and later at her restaurants. “The Charleston garden is my best attempt at growing and using herbs.” Her favorites in-clude rosemary, mint, basil, parsley, lemon balm and cilantro. She is particularly fond of the antebellum benne (sesame) plants, with their historic association to Charleston cuisine. Guests share her exuberance during garden tours, admiring the plant’s fuzzy, okra-like pods that are filled with the seeds. Nathalie claims she doesn’t have a green thumb but she likes

to harvest, pluck weeds and deadhead flowers. She says the real “caretaker” is the young landscaper Jennifer, who is the “life and soul” of the garden. Nathalie has an artist’s knack for catching the eye by adding

touches of whimsy and humor throughout the garden. She recycles colorful broken pottery and china pieces by incorpo-rating them into the landscape. “Having dinnerware in our edible garden seems rather appropriate, I think, and alludes to happy meals ahead.” Nathalie explains. Nathalie’s garden may be small, but the rewards are huge.

In her kitchen, she cultivates flavor by experimenting with traditional and little-known edible plants and herbs. Her passion for sharing, encouraging and inspiring cooks and gardeners with new discoveries is exemplified in her legendary recipes and books.

A blessing of

Herbs

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 11F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 11

An excerpt from the blog, Radically Simple - Rozanne Gold’s World of Cooking.

By roZanne Gold (New york)Th ere is much chatter about women in the restaurant industry

or, rather, the lack of them. Since my early days as one of the few women chefs in New york (late 1970's), this has been a subject that rears its head every few years. Has the glass ceiling been shattered? Have women earned a competitive place alongside their male peers in upscale restaurants? Is it possible to diff erentiate food created by women from that of men? It depends who you ask, but swirling speculation and empirical evidence aside, this year's James Beard awards showcased women in the brightest of lights. a terrifi c article by Sumathi reddy in the Wall Street Journal, posted moments after the awards, summed up the "women wins": Gabrielle Hamilton, the chef of Prune (in New york's east Village); Saipin Chutima of lotus Siam in las Vegas (best chef Southwest), andrea reusing of lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina (best chef Southeast), angela Pinkerton of eleven Madison Park in New york City (outstanding pastry chef), and in the wine category, Belinda Chang of Danny Meyer's Modern (outstanding wine service). But a perusal of all the restaurant and chef categories at the awards

shows some statistical shortcomings. Out of fi ve choices in each category, there was only one woman, Barbara lynch of Menton in Boston, who was a nominee for Best New restaurant. One woman, Suzanne Goin of lucques in los angeles, for Outstanding Chef award, one woman as rising Star Chef -- Christina tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar, and, out of 50 nominees for regional best chefs, there were only six women* represented. and true to the industry's norm, there were three women out of fi ve nominated for Outstanding Pastry Chef award. Many more women (including me) were represented at the media and book awards and there were lots of women "guest chefs" cooking for the receptions. and there were wonderful women chefs on stage, including traci des Jardins and Susan Feninger, and major kudos to Emily Luchetti who organized the entire outstanding event. as past president and a member (for three decades!) of Les Dames d'Escoffi er, I can faithfully say that we've come a long way yet still have a long way to go. But fi rst we must continue to celebrate the industry's extraordinary women -- for our contributions are womanfold.

rozanne’s website can be found at: http://rozannegold.wordpress.com

An excerpt from the blog, Cocina Marie.

By Marie H. SaBa (austin) I’m a member of the austin chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffi er. a

women in our local chapter, Pamela Nevarez-Fischer, set up an arrangement with Whole Foods Market that works like this: every Saturday morning, two Dames go to Whole Foods to pick up day-old produce and bakery items. We load that into our cars for transport to the kitchens at Caritas downtown and the university united Methodist Church, on campus. Th e kitchens incorporate that food into the daily meals provided to the hungry and homeless. I signed up several months ago to be one of the runners this weekend.at the church kitchen, I met lloyd. although I’m not sure of

his offi cial title, lloyd was clearly the executive chef … and was also handling grill, pantry, and pastry. amazingly, everything was running smoothly. even more amazing, despite his limited resources, lloyd was completely over the moon about every dish he cooked. My favorite was the one he called the “I Don’t Know” Salad. When we asked about the name, he said: “Well I don’t know what you are going to bring me, so I don’t know what is going to go in it.” ”See?” he said with a laugh. “I Don’t Know.”What I love about lloyd’s approach is that he is so accepting

of uncertainty. Shouldn’t we all be this way? Shouldn’t we all know by now that the only certainty in life is uncertainty?I’ll admit that I have sort of a love-hate relationship with the

unknown. On the one hand, uncertainty about the future is what makes dreaming possible. It’s what made me lie awake at night when John and I were dating, and dream that we would someday get married. It’s also what makes me hope every day that I will have an opportunity to host another cooking show and write another cookbook.But then, that same uncertainty can be utterly unnerving in other

contexts. like when my son Jack was in intensive care shortly after he was born, and I was nearly paralyzed by my fear about the future.What does one do to live with this uncertainty? (What do you

do?) My resolution this week is to be more like lloyd. Sure, I’ll keep setting my alarm clock and making my to-do lists. But if I can just keep lloyd in mind, maybe I’ll fi nally learn to really embrace what I don’t know.

Marie’s website can be found at: http://cocinamarie.wordpress.com/

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Meaningful Blogs from Dames

12 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Every family has them: the

traditions and memories

that are passed down from

generation to generation.

HandCraft is the warm

remembrance of one family’s

winemaking heritage and

their belief that sometimes

the most valuable things in

life are the ones you craft by

hand, with love.

Crafted by Tradition

and Inspired by

Life: Dame Cheryl

Indelicato Launches

Portfolio of Wines

DFV Wines is proud to introduce ...

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 13

HandCraft celebrates the California home and Italian heritage of the Indelicato family, passed down through the years. representing her family’s third generation in winemaking, Cheryl Indelicato (Monterey) gives classic grapes such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon her own personal touch, adding a dash of Italian varietals as a nod to the traditional, vineyard-to-barrel fi eld selections that were a mainstay at the Indelicato’s family table.When Cheryl’s grandfather, Gasparé

Indelicato, planted his family’s fi rst american vineyard in 1924, he brought with him the home winemaking tradition taught to him by his father back in Campobello, Italy. He also brought an appreciation of the important things in life. “When my grandfather came to this country, all he knew how to do was to live off the land,” says Cheryl. “Th e family gave each other values, not things: a strong work ethic, honesty, a love for the land and for sharing fresh, simple meals together.” Birthdays might include a cake—the only time they ever had cake,” says Cheryl, “and a toy whittled from wood.”today, Cheryl and her family carry on those

values. She teaches her son, Dominick, the same family recipes and fresh approach to cooking that her aunts Mary and Francy taught her. “I’ll ask Dominick, ‘What’s for dinner?’ and he answers, ‘let’s go to the garden and fi nd out!’” she says with a smile. Dominick has started a tradition of his own: a personal Christmas tree, decorated head to toe with his handmade ornaments. Cheryl has saved them all, in their macaroni and tinsel glory, writing the year on each one so that Dominick can hand them down to his own children someday. “Family traditions are especially important to me—that’s what I like to keep close to heart,” she shares. Just like the HandCraft wines she

creates, proprietor Cheryl Indelicato’ s life reflects a joyful meeting of her inspiring, bounteous California home and her cherished Italian heritage.

as part of one of California’s oldest winemaking families, Cheryl has been in the wine industry since she was a little girl, doing odd jobs at the winery and in the vineyards with her siblings and cousins. today, that group of hard working kids represents the current leadership of DFV Wines: the third generation of the family-owned and operated vineyards and wineries. Originally built on the hard work of

patriarch Gasparé Indelicato, the company went from farming grapes to making its fi rst vintage of wine in 1935 after Prohibition ended. “We have such a strong family tradition with wine, and that’s important to me,” Cheryl explains. “My grandfather, Gasparé, learned winemaking from his father. and my Dad and his brothers learned it from Gasparé. I knew I would work toward continuing that legacy.” Th is year, Delicato Family Vineyards is celebrating over 75 years of family winemaking.although Cheryl grew up working at

the winery, her parents insisted that all of “Generation Th ree” graduate from college and gather outside experience by working elsewhere for at least three years before coming back to the family business. taking this sage advice, she earned a Bachelor of arts Degree in Business in 1989 from California State university, Stanislaus and a registered Nursing degree in 1985. today, Cheryl serves as President of

Monterey County Vintners & Growers association (2009 – present), Director of the Wine Institute, Monterey Bay and is Director of Hospitality at the family’s San Bernabe Vineyard hospitality center. On any given day, one can fi nd Cheryl drizzling olive oil on garden fresh grilled zucchini for afternoon guests, hosting journalists on behalf of the Monterey Vintners & Growers, leading a visitors’ tour or entertaining DFV Wines’ trade guests. Cheryl’s day is not complete until lunch or dinner is served, graced with the personal touch of her creativity and culinary talent.Cheryl lives in beautiful Monterey,

California with her husband Claude Hoover and son Dominick, where they tend a fruit grove and an organic garden brimming with several types of potatoes, big and small tomatoes, zucchini, strawberries and more. Watching her son put his own spin on a favorite Italian dish, Cheryl knows her family’s traditions continue—and nothing could make her more proud.

premium winessourced

from california’sbest growing

regions

familysustainability

quality

dfvwines.com

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LDEI Ad 2010.pdf 1 9/22/10 2:17 PM

HHandCraFt

14 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l14 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

The summer meeting of the 2011 Board of Directors was held July 29-31 in St. louis, a city often referred to as The Gateway to the West. Dames gathered at the ritz-Carlton Hotel in the heart of the city’s bustling Clayton business district. after calling the meeting to order, President Sandy Hu led a structured discussion on lDeI business and offered guidance in designing strategies and meeting goals for the remainder of the year. She steered the board through initial planning for the

2012 annual meeting in St. louis. representing the host chapter, Kathy Gottsacker showcased the city through an excellent presentation that included information packets. With the assistance of Kathy and Maria Gomez-Laurens of HelmsBriscoe, the board was able to forge the basic requirements of next year’s conference, including the theme. The annual Conference Planning Committee consists of the board of directors, representatives from the host chapter and other lDeI organizational parties. The Friday dinner venue was Monarch, a celebrated

restaurant serving modern american cuisine. louisiana-born Chef Josh Galliano, a James Beard award nominee,

lDeI Board of Directors Meet in St. louis

created a “Southern inspired” menu that included gumbo, spinach salad with corn-fried oysters, shrimp & grits, fried green tomatoes and New Orleans bread pudding, - one of several desserts. Dinner was served in the impressive Skybox, overlooking the large, attractive kitchen. On Saturday evening, Dames and their guests dined

at the highly acclaimed restaurant, The Crossing, which specializes in new american cuisine with a “crossing” of French and Italian influences. Dinner included ramekins of addictive blue cheese soufflé appetizer with crisp toasts, tagliatelle with beef ragu, porcini marinated texas quail and Berkshire porchetta. Chef/owner Jim Fiala gained kitchen experience at nationally renowned places like Chicago's Spiaggia and New york's Daniel. The evening was stunning from start to finish.

ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT: 2011 President Sandy Hu leads the board in discus-sion. St. Louis confection specialties - a chocolate gateway arch and gooey butter cakes. Kathy Gottsacker shares her chapter's vision for the 2012 conference. Treasurer Kathleen Perry.. The board examines the mission of LDEI.By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

Photos by Susan Slack

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1. The Crossing menu. 2. L-R Teresa Farney, St. Louis Conference Co-chair Beth Huch and Sharon Van Meter. 3. Greg Jewell, Mary Moore and Lori Willis. 4. St. Louis Chapter Vice President Judith Bello and Kathy Gottsacker. 5. Brenda McDowell and Dottie Koteski. 6. Beet Salad with goat cheese and mascarpone

MONARCH THE CROSSING

1. Fish course at Monarch. 2. Mary Ellen Griffin and Janet Burgess.3. Sandy Hu and Greg Jewell with a background view of Monarch's kitchen. 4. Monarch's creative granola- sorbet dessert. 5. Dames Marie Gomez-Laurens and Sharon Van Meter.

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By Susan Carter (london) On Sunday, September 25, the newest chapter of lDeI

held its first major fundraising event, The Great Kitchen Clear-Out, at Westminster Kingsway Collage in london. The brainchild of President Valentina Harris, The Great

Kitchen Clear-Out brought together cooks from all walks, from amateur to professional, as they donated unwanted, various kitchen bits and bobs to a Bring and Buy sale with a difference. For an entry fee of * £1, donors and attendees were able to rummage through a treasure trove of gently loved pots and pans, china and glassware, fondue sets and breadmakers, books and accessories – all at bargain basement prices. During the successful event, refreshments were available.In an associated on-line auction, renowned celebrity chefs

donated items that were auctioned on-line at eBay starting Sunday, September 18. Items not sold were offered again through eBay starting in mid-November. Proceeds from the fundraiser will support action against

Hunger uK and les Dames d’escoffier london’s first scholarship, the Kate ray Memorial Bursary for Patisserie.*Editor’s Note: The exchange rate is currently uSD 1.61225.

1 Hunting for a bargain. 2 A break for a cuppa! 3 L-R The Action Against

Hunger girls Lauren and Becky. 4 Viewing the celebrity chef donations. 5 L-R

London Dames Jacqui Pickles and Sue Carter. 6 Celebrity baker Edd Kimber

checks out the tables.

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F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 17

www.kikkomanusa.com

CheCk out the Kikkoman’s Kitchen Page

Kate Ray*In honor of the late Kate Ray,

Les Dames d’Escoffi er London have designated that a bursary be established in her name, for fi nancial assistance of qualifi ed students wishing to complete an accredited Patisserie course.”

A native New Zealander, Kate came to the UK in the early ‘80s. She decided to take a three-month cookery course with Lyn Hall at La Petite Cuisine in Richmond and graduated as the top student. An introduction to the Roux Brothers led to a job and she worked with Albert at Le Gavroche; she replaced Rowley Leigh (now of Cafe Anglais) when he took a break and ultimately became the Head Chef of the Roux Patisserie. In a world dominated very much by men at that time, her devotion to the task in hand and her attention to detail in everything she undertook, made her a shining example to all around her.Besides her heavy workload,

she would take on commissions for special cakes (Prince Charles’ birthday cake) or exhibition pieces made in marzipan – the design and detail in all of these were outstanding. Displayed at the Waterside Inn for many years, was a piece she made of Albert and Michel Roux sitting together at a table – they were such good images of the brothers – right down to Albert’s specs on the end of his nose! Kate returned to New Zealand

in the late ‘80s and set up a successful dessert company supplying restaurants and airlines. She died in January, 2011 having battled cancer for many years but is remembered fondly and with admiration by all those who worked besides her in the culinary profession.

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By Paige Crone with Susan SlackIt was a picture perfect fall evening on the banks of the ashley

river at the historic lowndes Grove Plantation in Charleston, South Carolina. although it wasn’t the first fundraiser for the Charleston Chapter Dames, it was our first one celebrating local artisanal foods and fabulous wines set against this perfect backdrop. Imagine driving up to this majestic plantation home on the

water, with the sun setting, crisp air invigorating, and the College of Charleston rowing team chasing the setting sun back and forth along the riverbank. The wine glasses are perfectly lined up, inviting each guest to adopt one for the evening…as guests arrived at this magnificent venue, Grande Dame

Nathalie Dupree was on hand to warmly greet them. Her newest award-winning cookbook was stacked with others nearby, ready for the book signing. Vintners from all over the country set up tables of fine wines to engage and educate guests while pleasing their senses. Interspersed were bountiful tables laden with samples and items for sale from Charleston’s local growers, farmers and bakers. Guests indulged in tastes from Kennerty Farms (baby veggies), Olindas Olives, Callie’s Biscuits, The Charleston Cookie

Company, Chai’s restaurant (crab salad with squash terrine), Celeste albers’ The Green Grocer (made-to-order omelets from farm fresh eggs), homemade gnocchi with fresh pesto, treats from Jestine’s Sweet Shop and succulent shrimp straight from Charleston waters served over stone-ground grits. Pure heaven! The silent auction benefitting lDeI scholarships boasted more

than fabulous donated packages. Guests bid on a catered party at The lowndes Grove Plantation river House, Dinner at Circa 1886, private cooking lessons with Nathalie Dupree, fine wines, autographed cookbooks, original paintings and cookware. If you had been there, you would instantly realize this was the start of a very special lowcountry tradition—one the Charleston Dames will be proud to build on and one that the community will look forward to every year. Committee members must often wear many hats. The hard

work and creativity of the Charleston Dames, plus their generous donations, help make this a spectacular event. Co-chairs: Jennifer Goldman and Debbie Marlowe

Planning Committee/logistics: Susan Wigley, Donna Gustafason, Celia Cerasoli; Pr:

Paige Crone, Deidre Schipani, Teresa Taylor, Marion Sullivan, Susan Slack

(website) and Sarah Graham (signs); auction: Patricia Agnew, Danielle Wecksler, Deidre

Schipani; entertainment: Libba Osborne.

Charleston's autumn affair: A Celebration of Wine and Artisan Food

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1. Wine glasses at An Autumn Affair. 2. Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree with her husband Jack Bass.  3. Dame Carrie Bailey-Morey's company, Callie's Biscuits, makes the best you've ever eaten! 4. Beautiful tapas from Chai's. 5. Kennerty Farms garden-fresh baby veggies. 6. Guests sample the wines. 7. L-R Cynthia Corley, Deidre Schipani, Peg Moore and Charles Corley. 8. Rick Widman and his wife, Linn Lesesne with Celia Cerasoli. 9. L-R Donna Gustafson, Cecilia Cerasoli, Susan Wigley. Susan Slack, Patricia Agnew, Anne Semmes. 10. Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier…. 11. Jestines Sweet Shop satisfied everyone's sweet tooth. 12. L-R Jennifer Goldman and Debbie Marlowe. 13. L-R Dame Danielle Wecksler and auction guest. 14. L-R Paige Crone, Patricia Agnew and Nathalie Dupree.  

20 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

By CiCi WilliamsonHerbes-de-Provence and the earthy essence of French Champagne

perfumed the air as more than 30 Dames cooked French recipes and popped bubbly at the expansive Potomac, Maryland home of Jodi Lehr on July 21. It was Vive La France! Manger a la Francais (“eat French”) as mounds of Dame-made dishes vanished from the heavily ladened buffet tables.It can't be only moi who thinks the best events are when Dames

cook! everyone feasted on gougeres, chicken liver parfait, wild mushroom paté, roasted ratatouille, chicken tarragon, French cookies and cheeses, mousse au chocolat, fresh berries with Cointreau whipped cream, and much more.The highlight wasn't even the food but a personal, 30-minute talk

by charter member Carol Cutler, who lived in Paris for 12 years with her journalist husband B.J. She began her talk with their three years in Moscow where they were introduced to diplomatic dinners, receptions, and meeting dignitaries like ` Begum aga Khan, and Hollywood producer Mike todd with actress evelyn Keyes (pre-elizabeth taylor).B.J. next went to Paris as editor of the european edition of the

New York Herald Tribune. The couple lived on the impressive-sounding Rue de la Renaissance - actually only one block long - behind the Plaza athenee Hotel. at parties they met Paulette Godard, audrey Hepburn, and author James Jones.Cooking on a 3-burner stove, Carol produced fancy dinner parties

for as many as 22 guests. ladies' dessert plates came with small floral bouquets, a bonus of the inexpensive flowers that filled the apartment..Some Dames attending the potluck dinner dressed in French style,

and Carol brought some couture sample clothes purchased from nearby Givenchy, Dior, and Balenciaga. It helped that Carol wears a model size.B.J. brought Carol a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking

for review. She recognized its importance and produced excerpts for the trib's ladies' pages. In the process she met Simca Beck, louisette Bertholle, and Julia Child who later remarked to Carol "Weren't we lucky to have lived in Paris then?" Indeed.

D.C. Dames savor

potluck dinner

French

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 21

1. D.C. Dames gather for a French potluck dinner. 2. Katherine Tallmadge (left) organized the D.C. Chapter's French Potluck Dinner at the home of Jodi Lehr (right) shown with chapter president Katherine Newell Smith and Carol Cutler, who did a talk about her years living in Paris. 3. Dames Paula Jacobson, Sheilah Kaufman, Goody Solomon and Laurie Weber.

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Ladies at work making corn tortillas at the Sabina Tortillaria. L-R: Panel discussion included Chicago Dames Elaine Gonzalez, Judith Dunbar Hines (moderator and tour guide) and Maria Concannon. Above: Chicago Dames admired this painting at the National Museum of Mexican Art, where they enjoyed lunch and the panel discussion.

By Karen leVin (Chicago)

On a mild Saturday in May, ten Chicago Dames and their guests boarded

a coach bus for a lovely ride through the city to the historic Pilsen area of

Chicago. Judith Dunbar Hines and andres, her co-worker at the Chicago

Cultural Center, took turns describing the architecture and history of each area

we drove through. Our fi rst stop was at the Sabina tortillaria to watch the huge

machines turning out hundreds of white corn tortillas

We arrived at the National Museum of Mexican art and our guide gave us

a tour of several exhibits and an overview of this exquisite museum. after

the tour we headed upstairs for a sumptuous luncheon. Th e buff et lunch

started with guacamole, salsa, tortilla chips and taquitos prepared by Maria

Concannon. Our main dish was warm tamales from the local street vendors.

Violeta Morales (a 2006 lDeI scholarship winner) prepared two beverages: a

guava atole and champurrado, a chocolate drink. Elaine Gonzales brought a

chocolate rice pudding for dessert accompanied by a warm chocolate beverage

and samples of chocolate candy to complete the meal.

Judith led the panel discussion by asking our gracious hostesses to describe their

backgrounds and how they came to america and their fi rst food memories.

Chicago Dames Enjoy a Taste of Mexicoat the atlanta conference, Veronica Hastings (Chicago), Cybil Talley (atlanta), and Aliza Green (Philadelphia) reported on their chapter’s involvement with the Global Culinary Initiative. Toria Emas (Chicago) says her chapter has an ongoing global initiative due to her city’s diverse neighborhoods. So far, they have explored asian (argyle), Mexican (Pilsen) and Indian (Devon) neighborhoods with cross cultural exchanges. learn more about the Global Culinary Initiative in the upcoming 2012, Winter conference issue.

GLOBAL CULINARY

post card“Embracing our global communities

through culinary connections that will provide educational

programming, training programs and cultural exchange.”

CHICaGO Eleanor HansonWind, rain, and fl oods may have plagued Chicago’s summer of 2011,

but the evening of July 26 was ideal. a capacity gathering of members and guests enjoyed a perfect night hosted by rick and Deann Bayless in their enviable city garden. Sipping blue agave and cucumber margari-tas and enjoying luscious guacamole, we toured the gardens that are an extension of the Bayless’ north side Chicago home. Featuring containers, arbors, trellises, small plots and vertical planting, the limited location beautifully commingles fruits, fl owers, vegetables and herbs while main-taining organic gardening methods. Th eir horticulturist and gardeners, Bill Shores and anna timmerman, pointed out the many ways a produc-tive but attractive garden can be integrated into a very limited space. a number of the crops are used at the Bayless’ restaurants. after our tour, we enjoyed specialties from rick and Deann including shrimp mojo de ajo on a jicama chip, sopes with shredded Kilgus goat in red chile, chilito celleno with pork picadillo and frontera ceviche. Th e evening’s fi nale featured Klug Farm apricot tartaleta with hoja santa, mini churros, iced Mexican chocolate with Cherokee mint and a lovely warm breeze.

MIaMI Elizabeth SmithOn april 10, the Miami Chapter’s chef, farmer and hospitality mem-

bers presented their third annual tropical Brunch in the redland, at pic-turesque Schnebly Winery, North america’s southernmost winery and a popular destination in Miami's historic agricultural district. Th e sold-out al fresco feast attracted more than 300 attendees and featured a bounty of artfully prepared, locally grown fruits and vegetables, farm-fresh eggs, fruit breads and pastries, pastured meats and ethnic specialties associated with the diverse region -- created by Dames and served by volunteer le Cordon Bleu students. Guests washed down the delectable brunch with Passion Fruit bubbly and still wines donated by Schnebly, along with traditional varietals provided by national sponsors Gnarly Head Cellars, Irony Wines, Ivan tamas and Wente Family estate. Shaded tables, an idyllic april day and the ambiance of lush tropical gardens, waterfalls, ponds and nearby fruit orchards set a lovely stage. a hotly contested si-lent auction comprised of lavish epicurean and luxury off erings inspired lively bidding and added $5,500 the record-breaking gross of $15,500 (a 50 percent increase over 2010). Th e afternoon's festivities also included lDeI Miami scholarship presentations to three le Cordon Bleu culi-nary students and recognition of retiring South Miami K-8 teacher Pat Kuentzel for her outstanding achievements in the classroom and school garden. Proceeds from the tropical Brunch in Th e redland will benefi t a host of community projects that help preserve South Florida’s rich agricultural heritage, foster better childhood nutrition and fund culinary and agriculture scholarships. and agriculture scholarships.

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 23

COMPILED BYChandra Ram (Chicago)

BOStONLucille GiovinoTh e scenario: four chefs, three courses, one

chance to win. Th e challenge: to create an unforgettable meal from ingredients in a mystery basket before time runs out! Denise Baron Herrera, culinary director at Boston’s Burtons Grill, competed with three male chefs in the Food Network Show Chopped. Th e fi rst mystery basket contained quahogs, persimmons, Italian bitters and nopales. In twenty minutes Denise concocted her version of out of the shell clams casino with julienned persimmons and nopales sprinkled with Italian bitters vinaigrette, which was a home run with the judges. In round two, the basket included halibut, purple caulifl ower, salted duck yolks and pork skin. Denise turned to asian fl avors, making an asian marinated halibut with sautéed purple caulifl ower and crispy pork skin. Th e judges liked the egg yolk emulsifi ed into the soy sauce and were surprised that it worked so well. Th e dessert basket consisted of Mexican chocolate, mostarda, tofu and pretzel rods. She made a strawberry mousse with mostarda and chocolate-covered pretzel rods. Th e judges liked the addition of the mostarda, which lent a creamy texture to the tofu. It was a very close competition and even though she was not the winner, she proved that she can “measure up to a lot of other chefs out there.” Kudos to Denise, she’s a true winner in our hearts.

What is the ultimate birthday gift one could possibly hope for? Perhaps it would be a ticket to a presidential fundraiser, which was precisely what Ana Costa received for her 92nd birthday gift from her son, Manny Costa. together, they attended an elegant, tented dinner party for 100 guests at a Chestnut Hill estate with President Obama as he swung through Massachusetts in late spring. Certainly, this will be a cherished memory.

President Barack Obama and Boston Dame Ana Costa.

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NeW yOrK CIt yPatricia Cobe & Melanie Young, president at a gala reception July 13, the New york Chapter awarded Make a

Diff erence Scholarships totaling nearly $50,000 to 20 exceptional young women pursuing degrees in the culinary arts, food studies, nutrition, fi ne beverage and hospitality fi elds. Contributions of $28,000 were from in-kind partnerships with leading New york schools including the Culi-nary Institute of america, Nyu, Th e French Culinary Institute Institute of Culinary education, NyC tech, Brooklyn College and International Wine Center; the balance was either lDNy membership- or corporate-sponsored. Th e reception—generously underwritten by the (Dame) Barbara and Donald tober Foundation—was held in Manhattan’s astor Center, with food by Diane Gordon Catering and wines from argenti-na and Chile were donated by Nora Fevelukes. Th e lDNy Scholarship Committee is chaired by Margaret Happel.

The 2011 scholarship recipients are: • Lauren Giambrone, Culinary Institute of America• Therese Savory-Connors, NYC Tech• Ola Omran, Brooklyn College• Stephanie Rogus, NYU• Gabrielle Fuoco, Culinary Institute of America• Amy Yao, Cornell• Josephine Ledda, NYU• Paula De Oliveira, NYC Tech• Mai Ling, Institute of Culinary Education • Laura Corrigan, International Wine Center• Jennifer Zhou, Kingsborough College• Yonette Williams, Kingsborough College

In-Kind Scholarships were awarded to:Culinary Institute of America • Audrey McLeod • Meredith Walter

The French Culinary Institute • Lauren Schoch • Julie Ruggirella

Denisse Schnebly & Sandie Witmer

Carole Kotkin & Marsha Talianoff

Roxana Garciga & Leticia de Mello Bueno

Anne Marie Coral, Ariana Kumpis & Jackie Sayet

Susan Weinstein

2011 LDNY scholarship recipients with President Melanie Young and Scholarship Co-chair Margaret Happel Perry.

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 25

Institute of Culinary Education • Malinda Haslett • Pamela Vachon • Christina Ha

International Wine Center • Cecilia Gadea

For a story on FCI scholarship recipient Julie ruggirello, go to: http://www.theexaminernews.com/archives/westchester/West.examiner8-9-11.pdf. Th e feature ran in Julie’s hometown paper, Th e examiner News, and shows lDNy’s philanthropic work in action.For photos of the 2011 lDNy Scholarship event, go to: http://tinyurl.

com/3qxk482

SaN aNtONIO Linda Triesch, Corresponding SecretaryDiana Barrios Trevino, VP of programs, organized a great educa-

tional behind the scenes tour of the family-owned river City wholesale produce company on april 27. Th e tour ended with dinner at rosario’s restaurant, hosted by prospective new member Lisa Wong. She has a unique, wine cellar-like room where the food was delicious and it made for a fun, relaxing evening. On June 20, Aliza Green, president of the Philadelphia Chapter, presented a fabulous seminar to local Dames and the public, titled “unusual Herbs & Spices.” Th e art Institute of San antonio culinary program prepared the samples for the 60 attendees. We enjoyed spotlighting the skills of our national member and plan to have more events featuring local and international members. Our bi-annual business meeting was held June 28 at the beautiful new home of Pat Mozersky. She had a wonderful Mediterranean inspired buff et dinner in her to-die-for kitchen, featured in the summer issue of San antonio taste magazine. We awarded and honored four scholarship recipients, totaling $7500. Membership approved $7400 for our Green tables initiatives and $5000 for equipment and scholarships for St. Phil-ips’s culinary program. We voted in six new members and approved the new slate of offi cers for the 2011-2012 year. Chapter President Di-Anna Arias gave each member a vintage apron from her collection and read a tribute to her grandmother titled "apron Strings" to start the meeting. Stay tuned for a tuscan dinner at the Olive Orchard.

Di-Anna Arias gave each member a vintage apron from her collection and read a tribute to her grandmother entitled "Apron Strings." Top Row: June Hayes, Christine Kelly, Nancy Fitch, Linda Triesch, Kathy Shearer, Leslie Horne, Karen Haram, Judy Smith, Susan Johnson, Lucille Hooker and Bettie Lee Wilson Front: Pat Mozersky and Di-Anna Arias

Lucille Hooker in New york City pictured with Chef Jean-George of Jean-George's fi ve star restaurant. He is a huge supporter of LDEI and our mission.

The Viola Barrios Scholarship-Dame Marty Gonzalez, Diana Barrios Trevino and recipient Marnie Lawson.

Linda Triesch, Chef Justin Sparkman (Culinary Educator San Antonio Art Institute), Aliza Green (Art Institute Culinary Educator) and Di-Anna Arias.

Marty Gonzalez, recipient Ileana Chapa and Ana Martinez.

Marty Gonzalez, and recipient Cressida Elizabeth Golob.

Mediterranean buffet in Pat's dream kitchen. Visable Dames are Judy Smith, Rollie Blackwell with guest Margery Miller, Bettie Lee Wilson and May Kaye Sawyer-Morse.

L-R: Leslie Horne, Marty Gonzalez, plus other Dames and spouses at Rosario's.

26 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l26 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Seat tle Braiden Rex-Johnson, presidentTh e Seattle Chapter’s april program, "eat My Words," featured three

members who published books in the past year. Panelists included the meeting’s host, Lisa Dupar, Seattle caterer and author of Fried Chicken & Champagne: a romp Th rough the Kitchen at Pomegranate Bistro, Katherine Kehrli with her Celebrated Chefs cookbook, and Cynthia Nims, whose most recent book is Gourmet Game Night. In late May, 25 Dames gathered at urBaN enoteca to hear four women trailblazers in the world of Washington wines. Panelists included Patricia Gelles, owner of world-renowned Klipsun Vineyards; Kay Simon, winemaker and co-owner of Chinook Wines; Susan Neel, an owner and marketing director of McCrea Cellars; and Danielle Custer, director of taSte restaurant at the Seattle art Museum, who makes wine for the restau-rant. at the Seattle Chapter’s June meeting at Seattle Culinary academy (SCa) at Seattle Central Community College, 24 Dames learned about the huge impact that their fundraising eff orts have made in the lives of more than 60 women in Washington State. Catherine Hazen, schol-arship chair, announced that lDeS will have disbursed $425,000 by year’s end. Leslie Mackie, Green tables Chair, shared photos of school gardens (and happy kids!) made possible by four lDeS grants to local schools and gardening organizations. attendees enjoyed a farm-to-table buff et prepared by caterer Kelley leek, an SCa graduate and recipient of an lDeS scholarship. Linda Chauncey and Seattle Dames raised a toast to Seattle Central Community College’s Plant Science lab and Greenhouse, which was built, thanks in part, to a $50,000 grant from lDeS. Th ey also toasted Joy Gulmon-Huri's 40th anniversary as Pro-gram Director at SCCC. In early July, Seattle Dames enjoyed the second annual Family and Friends Barbecue. an impressive 38 adults and seven children gathered around the portable smoker at the Seattle yacht Club on elliott Bay Marina for sliced-to-order meats, baked beans, salads, and cornbread from Jasper’s Smokehouse. Th e children played croquet and twister, while the adults sipped wine and Pike Place microbrews donated by Rose Ann Finkel. Th e crowd made short work of the gelato cups provided by Maria Coassin, owner of Gelatiamo Gelateria-Pastic-ceria-Caff è.

L-R: Dames Kay Simon, Danielle Custer, Patricia Gelles, and Susan Neel spoke at the “Our Women in Wine” meeting at URBAN enoteca in May.

L-R: Beverly Gruber and scholarship recipient Andrea Flowers at the Seattle Chapter’s Family and Friends Barbecue.

L-R: Linda Chauncey, Beverly Gruber, Jane Morimoto, Catherine Hazen, Martha Marino and Braiden Rex-Johnson point to a plaque commemorating the $50,000 gift Seattle Dames gave to Central Community College for the Plant Science Lab and Greenhouse.

L-R: Dame Martha Marino, scholarship recipient Kelley Leek, Catherine Hazen, scholarship recipient Beth Mattiessen, Linda Chauncey, Joy Gulmon-Huri, and Leslie Mackie at Seattle’s Focus on Our Philanthropy meeting in June.

L-R: In July, Deba Wegner and husband Scott Wonder gather around the outdoor portable smoker at the Seattle Yacht Club.

L-R: In July, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Martha Marino, and Beverly Gruber donned their Atlanta t-shirts at Seattle’s Family and Friends Barbecue in anticipation of the annual conference in November.

In August, the Seattle Chapter’s Board of Directors gather around the table in Vito’s Cougar Room.

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 27

BOSTON Mary Ann Esposito, PBS host of "Ciao Italia", completed her 22nd national broadcast season. Her new book, Ciao Italia Family Classics (200 recipes from Th ree Generations of Italian Cooks) will be published this fall by St. Martins Press, New york. www.ciaoitalia.com

CHICAGOMary Abbott Hess, lHD, MS, rD, lD, FaDa and Catharine Powers, MS, rD, book, Essentials of Nutrition for Chefs, won the 2011 International association of Culinary Professionals (IaCP) Cook-book awards, Health and Special Diets category at the IaCP June annual meeting, austin, texas.

COLORADOCarol Fenster's tenth gluten-free cookbook, 125 Gluten-Free Vegetarian Recipes (avery/Penguin Group, 2011) is designed for vegetarians, vegans, fl exitarians or anyone seeking to adopt a more plant-based diet. Th e book also features a bonus section of vegan baking recipes.”

DALLASRenie Steves was one of three american judges at the 2011 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, luxembourg, May 6-8. She joined 260 wine and 24 spirits tasters collectively tasting 7,386 wines and spirits from 49 producer countries; awarding 2,150 medals.

NEW YORK Rozanne Gold was featured in the June 2011 issue of Edible Manhattan. Th e seven-page article spanned her career beginning at age 23 when she was chef to New york Mayor ed Koch. Gold's newest book Radically Simple (rodale) was nominated for a James Beard award. Gold's new partners, Cookstr and apple, have launched the successful new "1-2-3 Collection" cookbook(s) for the iPad.

COMPILED BY Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii)

PHILADELPHIA Deanna Segrave-Daly, in collaboration with fellow dietitians regan Jones and Serena Ball, launched an online recipe rally called Th e Recipe ReDux based on the concept that every healthy recipe deserves to be delicious. On the 21st of every month, healthy food bloggers from around the globe post a unique recipe based on a set theme. http://professionalpalate.squarespace.com/thereciperedux/

SEATTLE Cynthia Nims was named International association of Culinary Professionals (IaCP) President of the Board of Directors, a one-year term, at the annual Conference, austin, texas, June 2011. Cynthia served fi ve years on the IaCP board.

Kathy Casey completed the second season of "Kathy Casey’s liquid Kitchen" cocktail show. New episodes air every week on www.smallscreennetwork.com.

Lisa Dupar, top Seattle caterer and owner of Pomegranate Bistro, won the 2011 Julia Child First Book award from the International association of Culinary Professionals (IaCP) for her book Fried Chicken & Champagne: A Romp Th rough the Kitchen at Pomegranate Bistro. Th e cookbook showcases the whimsical mix of Dupar’s classical culinary training with her strong southern roots.

Jamie Peha is the new owner of the Seattle Wine and Food experience which features artisan and specialty-food products, wine, and high-end restaurants in Washington, Oregon, and California. Th e fourth annual experience will be held on February 26, 2012 and benefi ts the Giving Grapes Foundation.

Jerilyn Brusseau, founder of Peacetrees Vietnam (PtV), was named one of four 2011 Women of Inspiration by Th e Seattle Storm, 2010 Women’s National Basketball association (WNBa) champions. Th e purpose of PtV is to promote friendship and healing with the people of Vietnam, proving that even ordinary people can transform the ravages of war into healing and lasting peace.

ST. LOUIS Julia M. Usher published her second book, Julia M. Usher’s Ultimate Cookies (Gibbs Smith, November 2011), featuring 45 one-of-a-kind cookie decorating projects and 300 color photos. Her fi rst book, Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to Share Th roughout the Year (2009), is currently in its ninth printing. Find out more at www.juliausher.com.

WASHINGTON, D.C. Amy Riolo won the Nautilus Silver award for her third cookbook, Th e Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook. riolo's fourth cookbook, Th e Cuisine of Karabakh: Recipes, Memories, and Dining Traditions from Azerbaijan's Cradle of Culture will be released fall 2011.

Mary Ann Esposito

Mary Abbott Hess

Renie Steves

Rozanne Gold

Deanna Segrave-Daly

Kathy Casey

Lisa Dupar

Jamie Peha

Amy Riolo

Julia M. Usher

Phot

o by

Kar

en Fo

rsyt

he

28 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Several Dames gathered in Charleston S.C. in early October for the 2011 conference of the association of Food Journalists. Teresa Taylor, local food editor for The Post and

Courier, was the conference chairwoman for the event. Carol Haddix and Karen Haramwon awards as well as Bonnie Benwick in the Washington Post (for the best food section). the crunch you crave

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L-R: Attendees included Susan Slack and Nancie McDermott (both Charleston), Connie Hay (Washington, D.C.), Carol Haddix (Chicago), Karen Haram (San Antonio), Nathalie Dupree and Lin Lesesne (both Charleston), Jane Milza (New York), CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.), and Susan Nicholson (Atlanta). Attendees not pictured include Charleston Dames Teresa Taylor, Deidre Schipani and Marion Sullivan.

Dames at the Annual AFJ Conference

Green tables is thriving in lDeI chapters across North america and our new london chapter is already looking forward to establishing their Gt program. 2011 Green tables projects vary widely and refl ect the vibrant character of unique lDeI chapters. Partnership with other organizations is a prominent theme across chapters.Th is summer the Green tables website was inte-

grated fully with the lDeI website, unifying the look and feel. Th e archive section of the website tells the stories of Green tables work in chapter communities through summaries and photographs. Go to the Green tables tab on www.ldei.org and check out the 2011 chapter updates.the atlanta Chapter hosted the

lDeI annual Conference in 2011,

and featured many aspects of their Green tables program. Th e Green tables Breakfast served up fi ne products from local farmers and artisans, and the program introduced you to some true southern characters. Many Dames stayed in atlanta to experience afternoon in the Country, the chapter fundraiser that is true to its Gt roots. Watch for detailed Gt conference coverage in the Winter 2012 Quarterly. all in all, the state of Green tables is healthy and

strong, thanks to the many committed Dames who repeatedly cite Green tables as one of the most meaningful aspects of lDeI membership.

are you interested in Gt leadership at the international level? Contact Gt Co-Chair Barbara Petit at [email protected].

More info online at ldei.org

F a l l Q u a r t e r l y 2 0 1 1 29

By alice Gautsch Foreman (Seattle)Kathleen Desmond Stang died tuesday, august

9, 2011, in Seattle after an extended illness. She was born august 3, l942, in long Beach, California and is survived by her loving husband, of 47 years, Bob, as well as her five siblings and their families. education and educating were strong components in her life having earned her Ba and Ma in Home economics at long Beach State College now CSulB, and teaching in California, Brazil and later in Seattle. Her career took a different turn when she joined

the staff of Pacific Kitchens, a division of evans Food Group, now Publicis Dialog, where, under the guidance of Jane Morimoto, test Kitchen VP, she developed recipes for agency clients including Washington apples, alaska Seafood and California table Grapes. armed with this experience and a honed talent for writing, she authored over 150

articles that were published in magazines and/or newspapers. She is best known for her five cookbooks including, A Little Northwest Cookbook and Zucchini, Pumpkins and Squash.along with Alice Gautsch Foreman and Gretchen Mathers, she co-founded the

Seattle Chapter of les Dames d’escoffier. Prior to this, she was involved with the D.C. Chapter during the time her husband held a temporary position in that city. Kathleen was also active in other professional organizations.the Seattle Chapter has honored Kathleen by naming its newest endowed culinary

scholarship at South Seattle Community College for her.

IN MeMOrIaM Dame Kathleen Desmond Stang

(Seattle)

Phot

o by

Kim

Zum

walt

Sasquatch Books is offering a special holiday discount for the purchase of Cooking with Les Dames D'Escoffi er: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink, edited by Marcella Rosene with Pat Mozersky. LDEI chapters can order the cookbooks at 55 percent off the retail price. To order, contact Sarah Hanson, [email protected] or call 800-775-0817, extension 303. Prepayment is with Visa, Mastercard, or check. Shipping and tax are additional and the books are nonreturnable. Order quickly; this offer expires 12/31/11.

The extraordinary keynote speech of, 2011 Atlanta conference speaker and guest, CBS correspondent Martha Teichner (Charleston) is available to read on the LDEI website at www.ldei.org.

More info online at ldei.org

30 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

DEADLINESWINTER QUARTERLY, 2012: NOVEMBER 15, 2011SPRING QUARTERLY, 2012: JANUARY 15, 2012

PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGESElectronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Do not send photos taken on cell phones, off the internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your e-mail. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED.

MEMBER MILESTONESLIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may e-mail a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. (Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) E-mail your Member Milestone and photo to MM Editor, Hayley Matson-Mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section.

CHAPTER NEWSCHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. E-mail to Chandra Ram at [email protected] by the date listed above. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue.

E-NEWSLETTERThis bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an e-mail contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder “call for e-news” e-mail. Respond to Helen Roberts at [email protected].

POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE Chapters are actively involved with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers. Submit a short description of your chapter’s activities (up to 200 words and 3 quality photos), which embody the spirit of the new Global Culinary Initiative. The “postcard” view of your chapter’s event will be featured in an upcoming Quarterly. We are seeking a submission for the Fall Quarterly. Send to [email protected].

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By lori Willis (St. louis)Ladies, on behalf of the St. Louis Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffi er, the World Series baseball Cardinals and the now infamous mascot Rally Squirrel, we urge you to start making plans now to be our guests at the Ritz Carlton in Clayton, Missouri October 11 – 14, 2012. We can’t guarantee another World Series win, but we can guarantee fun, LDEI family and fabulous food!

October is one of the most magical times of the year in St. Louis. The leaves are ablaze and the air is crisp, cool and alive. Cur-rently, we have sunny blue skies and daytime temperatures in the '50s and '60s with lows of about 47 degrees. Geared up now to welcome

thousands to Busch Stadium, the proverbial red carpet is rolling across the region and down to the riverfront. There with all of the excitement and drama of downtown, lies the pot of gold under the steel rainbow we call the Gateway Arch.

With a population of approximately 2.8 mil-lion, the St. Louis metropolitan area is known for its rich history, hometown hospitality and renowned food communities. Famous for its 1904 World’s Fair foods, steeped in fascinating facts and fantasy, St. Louis' culinary legacy is alive and well. And here’s a fact for you – we are pleased to announce that our confer-ence team just secured the famous World’s Fair Pavilion at Forest Park for a special LDEI

reception! We’re also exploring tours of some of our standout attractions such as Anheuser-Busch, Missouri Botanical Garden and walking tours of food communities like The Hill, where chef Lydia Bastianich spent quality time on a recent visit.

St. Louisans today proudly and unapologetically cling to the spirit of the past, celebrate the present and embrace the future. All of that is summed up in our conference theme, “Meet Me in St. Louis,” which refers to the classic Judy Garland movie and the song that dares, “Don’t tell me the lights are shining anywhere but there!” Well, we are looking forward to welcom-ing each of you to a fantastic time in St. Louis! We will leave ALL the lights on for you.

FALL 2012


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