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PortalGoestoEcuador!May27-June5,2016
Participants:JohnA.,Sue,Bonnie,Wynne,Tony,Barbara,Cecelia,Suzie,Pi,Gayle,Fritz,Rolf,Ron,JohnS.,Linda,Caroline,Reed,Zsombor
Guides:CarolSimon,HowardTopoffReportandphotosbyWynneBrown
Friday,May27,2016
Alooongtravelday:Upat3:15a.m.,totheTucsonairportby4:20,metReed,Bonnie&Rolf—easytimethroughTSA,goodflighttoAtlanta,brunchatCafeIntermezzo(arestaurantinabookstore!),andseveralhourstowaituntilourflighttoQuito.Theflightisaboutfivehours,enoughtocovermuchofJonathonWeiner’sTheBeakoftheFinch:AStoryofEvolutioninOurTime,whilethinking,“AmIreallyonmywaytothelandofDrs.RosemaryandPeterGrant,DaphneMajor,Darwin’sfinches—andBlue-footedBoobies?!”Andhowveryfuntobedoingthiswithnineteenotherpeople,allwithsomesortofPortalconnection!Sofar,thetripwasn’tnearlyaseasyforCarolandHoward...Youhavetowonderaboutanexpeditionthatliterallystartsonthewrongfootwithsomeone(guesswho)wearingmismatchedshoes?Followedbyatwo-hourstormsmashingintoHoustonwithsomuchfloodingthecaptaindescribedtheairportas“goingintomeltdown.”Carolkeptsendingupdateslistingonecancelledflightafteranother,herlasttexttoPegreading:“Weneedhelpanddon’tknowifwecangetthere...”Inthemeantime,thefourofusarrivedinQuitothirtyminuteslate,gotentangledwithchurchgroupsontheirwaytodoreliefworkfortheApril16earthquake,finallygotthroughCustoms,andweredriventothePuemboBirdingGarden,whereCaroline,Tony,PiandZsombor,andJohnandSue—nottobeconfusedwithJohnandLinda—arealreadysettledin.Mercedes,theowner,greetedus,andmyroommate,Caroline,hadsweetlyleftthelightonforme.
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Saturday,May28-AntisanaDespiteour1a.m.arrivaltime,wewereupat5:30,and,fueledbyabreakfastofcoffee,cereal/yoghurt,freshfruit,andMOREcoffee,wewereofftotheAntisanaEcologicalReservewithManuel,ourguide.Theimpressivetwo-year-oldhighwaytookusthroughdramaticroadcutsthatrevealedlayersofgeologicalandvolcanichistory,thenintoupsteephighlands,reminiscentofCostaRica—openemerald-greenpastures,delineatedbynarrowlinesoftalltrees,allshroudedinclouds.“Bluegums”—Australianeucalypts—aresurprisinglyprevalent:Theywereimportedmanydecadesagotocontrolerosionandhavenowtakenoverthecountry.Westoppednearaquarryandwalkedupthegravelroadtobird,seeingaPlainbreastedHawkandaGreatThrush,thenmoveduphigherandhigherwithmorestops—andrain.Thelandatthisupperelevationisaseriesofsteephillsideswreathedinclouds,bareoftrees,coveredwithbunchgrass,cushionplants(lumpsofmoss)inshadesofsoftbeige.WesawmanyAndeanLapwingsandscatteredCarunculatedCaracaras.Intheparamoitself,wefoundBlack-facedIbis,VariableHawk,AmericanKestrel,Black-wingedGroundDove,ParamoPipit,andboththeChestnut-wingedCinclodesandtheStout-billedCinclodes.Ashort(wet)stopatMigaLakeprovidedlooksatSilveryGrebes,Slate-colored(Andean)Coots,and—thehighlight—aterrificviewofAndeanCondors!
NextwasawonderfullunchatTamboCondorwithawelcomefireinthebigstonehearth,andachancetowarmupwhilegazingoutthepicturewindowsathummersandmorecondors.Theappetizerwasapotato-likevegetablecalledmalleco,havasbeanswithchoppedtomatoesandonions,followedbypotatosoup,thenfreshtroutwithsaladandadifferenttypeofpotatoes,allaccompaniedbybabacojuice(akind
ofhybridpapaya).Ecuadorianstakelunchseriously!HummingbirdsattherestaurantfeedersincludedGiantHummingbird,Black-tailedTrainbearer,BlackFlowerpiercer,andShiningSunbeam(surelythemostjoyouslyevocativebirdname!).BacktothequarryspotforCinereousConebill,TyrianMetaltail,andaSpectacledWhitestartbeforereturningtoPuembobeforealivelyanddeliciousdinnerofpotatosoup,bakedchicken,salad,potatoes,andanOreo/gelatindessert.
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ThedayhadbroughtmorediscouragingtextmessagesfromCarol,untilthisonearrived:“Wehaveseats!They’reonanall-nightflightviaMexicoCity,butwewillbetheretomorrowmorning—aboutoneandhalfhoursbeforetheGalapagosflight!”Weallturnedinearly—tomorrowwillbeabigday!
Sunday,May29(DAYONEofGalápagosVoyageonspecieslists)BreakfastatPuemboBirdingGardenconsistedoffreshfruit,includingpiticaya,andomelettesmadetoorderbyMercedes—whatafascinatingdynamosheis!SheandJaviercomefromtwofamiliesthatownedadjoiningproperties;atnineyearsold,theybothresolvedtheywouldlivethereforever.Therestoftheirfamiliesdidn'twanttostay,but"wefoughttokeepourpieces,"shesaid.Whentheydecidedtomakethepropertyahotelinthe'90s,theystartedoutwithgeneral-interestvisitors,"butthatdidn'tworkoutwell—theythoughtourroomsweretoosimplebecausetherewasnoTV,sonowweonlytakebirders."SheandJavierwereinstrumentalinestablishingtheJocotoFoundation,whichbuyspropertytoprotectthehabitatofendangeredspecies.SeveralofuslookedhardfortheRedWoodpecker,butitremainedelusive...Offtotheairport,wherealltwentyofusaretogetheratlast!BarbaraandRon,andGayleandFritzalljoinedusfromQuitowherethey'dbeentouringandmuseum-hopping.And,hooray!CarolandHoward,ourfearless—andluggage-less—leaders,alongwithSuzie,Cecelia'shusband'scousin(gotthat?!),arrivedfromHoustonwheretheextremefloodinghadleftthemstranded,alongwiththousandsofotherpassengers.WeflewfirsttoGuayaquil,Ecuador'ssecondlargestcity,thentothetownofPuertoBaquerizoMorenoonSanCristobalIsland,oneofthirteenmajorGalápagosIslands.Thearchipelago,whichlies650milesofftheEcuadorcoast,straddlestheequator.OnarrivingattheSanCristobalairport,weslidthroughtheinspectionprocesseasilywitheachbagbeingscannedfirstbymachine,thenbyGermanShepherd
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noses.IvanLopezandOrlandoRomero,ourEcoVenturanaturalist-guides,greetedandshepherdedusbybustothetowndockwherewedonnedlifejackets,thendescendedthewalkwaywhiletryingtonotsteponthesnoringGalapagosSeaLion!WethendividedintotwogroupstorideinZodiacs(calledpangashere)totheY/ALetty,ourfloatinghomeforthenextweek.
Aftertheguides’welcometalkandbriefing,itwastimeforlunch—alovelybuffetofskeweredgrilledshrimpandawideselectionoffreshvegetablesandsalads.Thealarmsirenshriekedtenminutesafterlunch,thesignalforusalltoscampertothesun(top)deckwithourlifejacketsforthesafetybriefing.Fortunately,thatwasapieceofknowledgeweneverhadtouse.Thenbackintothepangasfortheshorttripbacktothedockpastthestill-snoozingsealionforawalkalongtheshore.Orlando,who
workedfortheGalapagosNationalParkServiceforyears,andIvanwereourguidesaswelearnedaboutPaloSantotrees,sawourfirstChathamFinch,wereabletophotographourfirstmarineiguanas(allfemales)!WealsometIvan'swife,hisseven-year-olddaughter,andnine-year-oldson.HeliveshereinSanCristobal,usedtobepresidentofthetouristcommission,isnowthepresidentofthenaturalistguides’association,workedwiththeUNESCOcommissionondetermininghowmuchtouristpressuretheislandecologycanbear,andownsadiveshopoperationandisaSCUBAinstructor.Muchlaterinthetrip,we’dfindouthehasothertalents...Thenbacktothedockwherefivesealionsnowslept,stair-stepped,intheshade,andwepanga'd(isthatreallyaverb?Itisnow...)ourwaybacktotheLettyforCarolandHoward’slecture,"IntroductiontotheGalápagos,"thenanotherpresentationbyIvan,thenawelcomebythecaptain,Peter,andallelevencrewmembers,includingRoberth,the"KeeperofLittleSecrets"—i.e.,thecabin“boy.”Dinnerwasachoiceofsteakoroctopus—andweallfellgratefullyintoourbunks,lulledbytheLetty’senginesasshemotoredontotomorrow’sdestination.
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DAY2–Monday,May30:SanCristobal(formerlyknownasChathamIsland)The"romantic"voiceofOrlandogavethewake-upcallat6:30followedbytheannouncementat7forbreakfastoffreshfruit,toast,oatmeal,cheese,ham—andEggsBenedict!By8wewereallinourlifejacketsandreadyforourexpeditiontoCerroBrujo(whichroughlytranslatestoMountWarlockorWizardHill).Afterdiscoveringthemeaningofa“wet”landing,weambledthroughanarrowlavacanyonandbouldersscatteredwithbrilliantlycoloredSallyLightfootcrabsandmeanderedalongan"organic"beachmadeofbroken-upshells.ItwaseasytobesocaptivatedbytheBlue-FootedBoobiesandBrownPelicanscatapultingthemselvesintothewaterwhilefeeding,wenearlysteppedoneitherbaskingmarineiguanasorsnoozingsealions—orinonecaseapairofrestingOysterCatchers.Someintrepidsoulstriedouttheirsnorkelinggearinthecoldandchoppywater.BackonthepangastotheLettyforlunch—anotherselectionofwonderfulfreshsaladsandsoup.NextasiestabeforetheforaytoPittPoint,stoppingatarockoutcropwherewesawGreaterFrigateBirdsandasmallrookeryofNazcaBoobies.Anotherwetlandingtoaninorganicbeach,madefromtheerodedumberandsepiaashofthesurroundingcliffs,andthesealionswho,whenthey’redry,areaperfectmatchfortherocks.Nextwasachallenging2-milehike,clamberingintrepidlyupthehillsidewhileobservingaChathamMockingbird,Opuntiatrees,LavaLizards,pastourfirstRed-footedBoobybusily
buildinganest,andthentoarookeryofBlue-footedBoobies.Theseendearingbirdsdedicateabarepatchofearthtotheirnest,markingitwithacircleofguano.Wesawseveralnestingpairs,somewithanegg,otherswithjustonechick,onewithtwinoffspring,andgottowatchtheirwhistlingandsky-pointingdisplays.Wealso(carefully)peeredovertheclifftoviewthenestsofnolessthantenRed-footedBoobies!Nextourgroupscrabbledbackdownthetrail,andpanga’dbacktotheLettyfor
quickshowersandCarolandHoward’spresentationon"SeeingIsn'tAlwaysBelieving"abouttheadaptationsofGalápagosanimals.Afterdinner(achoiceofturkeyRouladeorSeaBass[Corvina]onabedofmixed
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pepperandonionwithaflanfordessert),mostofusheadedouttothetopdecktowatchtheSouthernCrossandtheswoopingflightoftheelegantSwallow-tailedGull,theworld’sonlynocturnalgull.
DAY3–Tuesday,May31:Espanola(Hood)Acloudymorningwithfogandbreakersoverthereefandthedistantraucousracketofaseabirdrookery.Aftertheusualsumptuousbreakfast,weheadedtoPuntaSuarezwherethetrailwanderspaststacksofbaskingMarineIguanas,morenestingandwhistlingBlue-footedBoobies,andskitteringLavaLizards.ThestarofthemorningwastheimpressivelylargeandimpassiveWavedAlbatrosseswhoverycooperativelydidtheirbill-clackingandterritorialroutineforourcameras.Espanolaistheonlyislandwheretheylandandbreed;fortherestoftheyear,they’reatseaformonthsatatime.BacktotheLettyforlunch(twokindsofceviche!)andsiesta/photodownload/birdlisttimebeforesevenofusstruggledintoourwetsuitsforasnorkelingexpedition,ledby
Ivanandhistrusty“RingofHappiness.”Thelargebrightorangelifepreserver'saneffectiveconfidence-boosteranddeep-waterrestingspot
forrookiesnorkelers.Wesawtrumpetfish,hogfish,aparrotfish,razorsurgeonfish,wrasses,damselfish,andmore.Thehighlightwaswhentwoyoungsealionsemergedfromacaveandjoinedus!BacktotheboatwhereMarcos,bartenderextraordinaire,hadhotchocolatewaiting—ohmy,wecouldgetveryusedtobeingspoiledlikethis!Forthenextouting,thegroupsplitup—sometoabeachwalkandthediscoveryofawhaleskeletonandwatchingaMarineIguanagrazeonalgae.Fiveotherswentkayaking,andonebravesoul(go,Suzie!)triedoutEcoVentura'snewpaddleboard.Nolecturetonight—insteadweallre-convenedonthetopdeckforthesunset.Dinnerwasanappetizerofquinoaandveggies,Mediterraneanchickpeasoup,choiceofshrimpoverwildriceorporkmedallionswithapple,followedbydessertofOperaCake(similartotiramisu).Ivanwarnedusthatwiththewind,itcouldbearockypassagetonighttoIslaFloreanaandthatthosesensitivetomotionmightwanttotakeaDramamine...
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DAY4–Wednesday,June1:Floreana(SantaMaria,Charles)
Thisentireexperienceisallincredible—butmyfavoritepartofeachdayiswakingbeforedawn,throwingonafleece,clamberingsleepilyuptheladdertothediningroom,pouringacupofstrongEcuadoriancoffee,andjoiningotherearlybirdsonthetopdeck.Thismorningwascalmandlovelywithapink-brushedsky.Afterbreakfast,thepangastookustoPuntaCormorantwherewehikedalongagentletrailpastthemangroves,throughagroveofPaloSantotrees,andoverahilltoabrackishlagoon.
Floreanaisfamousforbeingtheonlyplacetoseeflamingosandpenguinsonthesameisland.WewereluckyenoughtoseeeightAmericanFlamingosonthefarsideofthelagoon,rangingfromfairlypaletodarkpink,aGalápagos(Large-billed)Flycatcher,Smooth-billedAnis,andlotsofwhatweeventuallydecidedwereSmallGroundFinches.WeslowlyambledoverthehilltothebeachontheothersideoftheislandtoviewadozenPacificGreenTurtlenestsbeforeleisurelyheadingbacktoourlaunchsite.And—justasifitreadthetripitinerary—therewasaGalápagosPenguincruisingalongnexttothebeachaswewaitedforthepangas!
BacktotheLettybeforetheusualsevensnorkelersheadedoutagain—underwaterhereisParadiseindeed!Thewaterwascalmertodaywithbrighter,moreconsistentlightthatilluminatedthefishbrilliantly.SoonafterIvanpointedoutaWhitetipReefShark,ayoungsealionshoweduptocheckusoutforseveralminutes,swirlingaroundandthroughourgroup.Wesnorkeledmorepastschoolsofcharcoal-gray,lemon-tailedsurgeonfish,chubbyandluminescentparrotfish,andmanymore—untilherecameanotheryoungsealion,evenmorecuriousthanthefirst.Whatajoyfulcreature!Swooping,plungingdowntograbarockinhisteeth,tossingitup,catchingit,flingingitagainjustsohecouldchaseit,twistingandjackknifingtothesurface,mouthopensoclosewecouldseeitsredliningandsharpwhiteteeth,stillholdingontotherock,thendroppingit,andswishingcloseenoughtotouch,almostbumpingmyfacemaskaswepeeredateachother.Iwastornbetweeninvoluntarilypattinghimashebrushedbyandcautiouslypullingback,rememberingthisISawildanimalafterall.Whatatotallymagicalexperience...
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BacktothepangaandtotheLettyforawelcomehotshowerandlunchofsalads,hotsoup,hominy,seafoodandrice,andEcuadorianpuercocarnitas.Asshortsiesta/birdworkbeforeCarolandHoward’s“TroubleinParadise”presentationontheecologicalchallengesintheGalapagos,thenascrambletoloadupforthepangatourorkayaking.Threepeoplechosetokayakandreportedseeingonesandshark,oneray,andoneHUGEmaleturtle(thedifferencebetweenmalesandfemalesisthatthemaleshaveaMUCHlargertail.)ThepangafolkwereluckyenoughtoseethreeGalápagosPenguins:apairandtheiryoungster!NextweallmetupatthePostOfficeBaybeachandreadmanyofthehundredsofpostcardsleftinzip-lockbagsinatallwoodenbarrel."Postoffice"isabitofamisnomersincenopostalserviceisinvolved:Instead,visitorspickupcardsdestinedfortheirownhometownsandhand-deliverthem.Thesystemworks!Atleastsomeofthetime:Withinfiveweeksofourbeingthere,threeofourpostcardsweredelivered!Ontheotherhand,Howardsaysthey'restillwaitingfortheonetheyputinthebox23yearsago...Wewatchedandcheeredthecrewmembersoccergame:Noonekeptscore,butourCaptainPeterdidscoreanimpressivegoal.(Itcamewithaprice:Hearrivedatdinnerwithanicebagonhisankle...)Drinksandsunset-watchingbeforedinnerofbeefrouladeandportobellosvssalmonwithdillsauce...AsIvanwouldsay:Another"WUNNERFUL"dayinParadise!
DAY5–Thursday,June2:SantaCruz(Indefatigable)TodayisGiantTortoiseDay!Wegottosleepinanextrathirtyminutes,thenoffinthepangasthroughthebusyharbortoPuntaAroyo,theeconomiccenteroftheGalápagos.Ontoabus,through
town,onuptothehighlandstoLosGemenos,theTwins—matchingcratersrimmedbyScalesiatrees,coffeeplants,guavatrees—andferns,whichmakeup35percentoftheplantsinthehighlands.ThentotheLavaTunnel,arocktube,15feettall,formedwhentheoutsideofalavaflowcoolsfasterthantheinterior.Theresultingwallsarevaluableinthattheyholdrecordsofanimalsandplantsthathavelongsincegoneextinct.
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ThenpartwaydownthemountaintoRanchoPrimicias,alocalranch(completewithrestaurant,bar,andgiftshop)whereGiantGalápagosTortoisesarethereptileoutoftheirresidentstars.Howdorancherskeepa900-poundcowpastures?Theydon’t.Thetortoisesgowheretheyplease,andtheranchersjustfixthefences.Theseanimalsareindeedimpressivelumberingcreatures,munchingguavasslowlyandthoughtfully,restinginpuddles,plowingalongandpullingtheirstump-likelegsoutofthemudholes.Thesewereallmalesasthefemalesandyounghangoutinlowerelevations.Ittakesthemalesthreemonthstomakethetrekdownthemountaintofindandmatewiththefemales,thenfindtheirwaybackupthethehighlands,takinganotherthreemonths.AfterlunchwetouredtheCharlesDarwinResearchStationandobservedtheMangroveFinchRecoveryProject,GiantTortoisebreedingandrestorationproject,ExhibitHall,nativegarden,andgiftshop.Wethenwalkedintotowntosavoralocalparade(hundredsofkidsonbikesalongwithacoupleoffloatscelebratingtheendofschoolandEcuador’squalifyingfortheCopaAmericaCentenariosoccertournament),timeinanInternetcafe,anddinnerintownforseveral.Therestofthegroupreturnedtotheboat—andtothethrillingnewsthatCarolandHoward'sluggagewaswaitingintheirroom!!Plasteredwithhuge“RUSH!”labels,theirsuitcaseshadbeenflownfromQuitotoBalta(theformerUSAirForcebaseonthenorthfaceofSantaCruz,nowanarrivalpointfor1,000peopleaday)andbroughtbybarge,thenabustoPuntaAroyo,thenbywatertaxiorpangatotheLetty.Weallwonderedifwe’drecognizeTeamSimon-Topoffintheirownclothesinsteadofourborrowedones...DinnerwasTunaTeriyakiwithRiceNoodlesorChickenRouladeandAppleStrudelfordessert.EachnightfourguestsareinvitedtodineattheCaptain'stable,amidmuchhilarityashe'salivelystorytellerwithtalesofpiracy,CoastGuardheroism,junglesurvival,proud-Papastoriesofhisthreechildren(hisdaughter,at14,wantstobeanelectricalengineer,whichmeansthefamilywillneedtomovetoQuito)—andtheeveningusuallyendswithaninvitationtovisitthebridgethenextday,includingachancetosteertheboat!
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DAY6–Friday,June3:Bartolome/BlackTortuga(northside,SantaCruz)
AlmosteverytravelbrochurefortheGalápagosincludesanimageofPinnacleRockonthetinyvolcanicisletofBartolome,thesettingwewokeuptothismorning.Ourgoal?Toseepenguins—missionaccomplished!—beforehikingup378woodenstepspastseveralimpressiveexamplesofLavaCactus(Brachycereusnesioticus,theonlyspeciesinthegenus)tothepeakfortheviewoverlookingyoungblacklavaandredcinderconesandtheiconicrocktower.WethenhustledbacktotheLetty,whereMarcoshadhotpizzawaitingonthemid-deck,andwrangledourwell-fedselvesintowetsuitstosnorkelatthebaseofPinnacleRock—withapenguin!Likealltheanimalshere,itwasunfazedbytheseoddswimmersandpaddledandbobbedrightnexttous,gazingcuriouslyintoourmasks.Wealsowatchedafeedingfrenzyofsurgeonfishwithseveralmaleandfemaleparrotfish,allgnashingatsomethingscrumptiousonthesandyseafloor.Backtotheboat,andafterlunchavisitfromCharlesDarwinhimself(inCrocs)whodescribedhislifeandwhatitwaslikeontheHMSBeagle.(Andaremindertowatch"MasterandCommander"withRussellCrowesinceitwasfilmedrighthere…)ThenaserenelateafternoonpangatourofthemangrovesofBlackTortugaCove
wherewesawWhitetipReefSharks,mullets,lotsofseaturtles,GreatBlueHerons,andseveralStriatedHerons.BacktotheLettyintimeforthesunsetonthetopdeckbeforeadinnerofChickenFettucinewithPestoSauceorBeefRouladewithDriedFruitsfollowedbyadessertcustardwithkiwi.
DAY7–Saturday,June4:SouthPlaza/NorthSeymourBynowwe’vegottheroutinedown:Orlando’swake-upcall,aheartyanddeliciousbreakfast,andthenourtwice-dailyPangaHop.TodaywasadrylandingontoSouthPlazaIsland—andimmediategratificationwithourfirstLandIguanaslyinglanguidlyamongthereddishtrunksoftheOpuntiatreesandtheevenredderSesuvium!LavaLizardswereoutaswellastheusualsealionsloungingalloverthetrail("watchoutforthatsquishyrock—"cautionedIvan.)OnegroupevengottoseeahybridMarine/LandIguana,characterizedbyaflatratherthanaroundtail,apointiersnout,andzebrastripingonthesideofitsneck.
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Wespentmostofthemorningmeanderingaroundthisbeautifullyspareisland,namedforitsresemblancetoatownplaza.MorenestingSwallowtailGullsperchedontheedgeofthecliffabovethewavescrashingbelowwithabackdropofcloudsofShearwaterswheelingandswoopinginthespray.Onland,infantOpuntiaseedlingsareprotectedbyindividualwirefencesandplasticfunnels,shapedlikehubcaps,tocapturethedew.Thehighestpointoftheislandisthebachelorquartersforthemalesealionswho’vebeenunsuccessfulinfindingamate.Sincetherearen'tanyfemalestofightover,theyallgetalongamicably.Interestingly,theirtrailsaremarkedbygleamingrocks:Thecalciumcarbonateintheirscatleachesout,andthen,astheyslideupanddowntheslope,theirbodiesbuffthestonesurfacetoasheenthatwouldmakeanysculptorproud.BacktotheLettywhereMarcoshadempanadasandjuicereadyforus,thenaquickturnaroundforthesnorkelerstocramthemselvesintowetsuitsandtheotherstogolookforGalápagosFurSeals,smallerandmuchlesscommonthantheGalapagosSeaLionswe'vebeenseeingsofrequently.Thesnorkelershadrinsedtheirmasks,putontheirfins,andwereallpoisedtotipintothewaterwhenthepangadriversuddenlystoodup,shouting,"Orca!"—andwewereoff!Thewhale(easilyidentifiableasamalewithitstallernarrowerdorsalfin)surfaced,sosleek,elegant,andgleaming,sank,thenre-emergedagainandagain,blowingsixoreighttimeswithusspeedingandbumpingourwayclosebehind,hangingontightlythroughtwo-footswells.Mostofthetimehewasalonealthoughweglimpsedafemaleonce.Atonepointwerealizedhewaschasingaseaturtle—whichatthenextmomentbecamehislunch.
"Sometimesyoucanhearwhentheorcaseattheturtles,"Ivantoldus."Itsoundslikepopcorn."Everytimewe'ddecidetoturnback,theorcasurfacedagain,luringusontohavejustonemorelook—untilsuddenlywerealizedhewasheadedourway—andFAST.Beforewehadachancetoreact,hetorpedoedstraightunderthepanga,soclosewecouldseethecontrastingyin/yangblack-whitepatternofhisside.Wow—unbelievable!
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Andaclearsignalitwastimeforustoretreat...Ivansaidthathadthekillerwhalechosentohitthepangaatthatspeed,we'dhaveallbeenthrownoutoftheboat.Althoughthere'snorecordoftheseanimalsattackinghumansintheGalápagos,inourwetsuitswewerealldressedlikesealions—whichhappentobeorcas'mainfoodsource...BacktoLettyagain,foraterrificslideshowbyIvan,usingphotoshe'dtakenduringtheweek,whichhegenerouslyprovidedtoallofus—andthesoundtrackincludes"GalápagosParadise,"asonghewroteandsang.Whoknew?Ournaturalistguidewe’vebeenthinkingofasIvanLopezhasanalterego:thatofthepopsingerIlo!Ourlastonboardlunch—withthesnorkelers,likeancientmariners,stilltellingwhaletalesgaloretoanyonewho’dlisten—thenastarton,sigh,thedreadedpacking,beforeourlastadventure:NorthSeymourIsland.Andwhatatreattosaveforlast!Howardwassorightwhenhedescribeditasa"gem"...Anotherdrylanding,thentobegreetedbyBlue-footedBoobies,somedancing,otherssittingonnests,andonepairevenmating,moreimplacableLandIguanas,moreMarineIguanas—andthefirstGalápagossnake(Alsophis)Carol'severseeninfifteentripshere!Thenonalongthewindwardshoretoafrigatebirdrookery:BothMagnificentandGreaterfrigatesarehere,females,chicksonthenest,maleswiththeirscarletpuffed-upgularpouch,or—klepto-parasitesthattheyare,swoopingintostealthefoodliterallyoutofthemouthsofthechicks—wegottoseeitall!
Reluctantly,westraggledbacktothepangaforonelasteveningridebacktotheLetty,whereaftertheCaptain’scocktailandre-introductionofthecrewmembers,onemoregiftawaitedus:Bonnie'sbirthdaycelebration,completewithballoons,cakeandcandlescarriedinbyCaptainPeter—andmusicprovidedbythemulti-talentedIlo,accompaniedbyOrlandoandthecaptain—andacongalinewindingthroughthediningroom,aroundtheloungetable,pastthebarandback.Howard'saccompanimentonchafingdishlidswasnottobemissed!
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DAY8–Sunday,June8:SanCristobal
We’llmissOrlando’sdulcettonesof“Goodmorning,ladiesandgentlemen.Itis6:30.Breakfastwillbeinhalfanhour.”Onelastsumptuousbreakfastaswemaneuveredourluggageoutintothehallwaysandpreparedforourlastpangatripthroughtheharbor,thenashortbustriptotheVisitorCenterontopofthehill.Fromthere,toosoon,thebustookustotheairportwhereourpathsdiverged:SometoMindo,sometoCuenca,somebacktoQuitotoheadbacktoRealLife…
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Whatatrip!Andwhataplace!SomanythankstoNaturalistJourneysandtoCarolandHowardforputtingtogethersuchafabuloustrip!
