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Hair loss websites and research: a hard sell masquerading ... · maceutical companies. To move past...

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PSYCHOLOGY ▼ 294 Journal of AESTHETIC NURSING July/August 2014 Volume 3 Issue 6 © 2014 MA Healthcare Ltd Furthermore, hair loss only requires 'treat- ment' for balding loners to be transformed into follicularly-abundant men who are happy, successful and surrounded by loved ones. And where could one get this 'treatment'? Pharmaceutical companies, of course—the very ones that set up and own the websites used by many men. Profit is king One of the clear reasons why hair loss is considered unattractive is because phar- maceutical companies make money when men buy their expensive and lifelong 'treatments'. As Susie Orbach (2014) rightly pointed out: 'Companies are mining our bodies for profit.' But sadly this isn’t the only place phar- maceutical companies are influential. Our understandings of 'treatments' are also dic- tated by the companies too. When the au- thor did a basic literature review of studies on the psychosocial impact of hair loss, he noticed a strange thing. Studies by differ- ent authors, published in different journals and on different dates kept using the same poorly-constructed question in their sur- veys. This was because the same marketing company had been employed by pharma- ceutical companies to ‘assess’ the impact of hair loss and pass if off as a study in a re- search journal. Other studies (so far there are at least nine of them) are either funded by a pharmaceutical company or have been authored by one of the company's employ- ees (Jankowski, 2014). These studies were published in scientific journals that appear to be independently exploring the impact of hair loss on men’s wellbeing. Therefore, when readers pick up the article, they will likely expect it to ex- plore how other men deal with hair loss, when instead the content being read is a B y the age of 30 years it’s a third of men, by the age of 50 years it’s half, and by 70 years most men will expe- rience it (Knott, 2013; NHS Choices, 2013). Have you guessed it yet? It’s hair loss. But going by the UK's media, you wouldn’t know it. The majority of men featured in the UK's men’s magazines, dating forums and porn websites don’t just have muscles and a seriously low level of body fat—they are likely to have symmetrical faces, mini- mal body hair, and most crucially of all a full head of hair. In fact, of the 4934 im- ages of men the author coded in recent is- sues of Men’s Health, FHM, Attitude and Gay Times, only 7% showed any sign of hair loss (Jankowski et al, 2014). So if hair loss affects many men, why is it so rarely represented? And why on the rare occasions when hair loss is represented is it depicted as an isolating illness that re- quires treatment? The answer is hair loss pharmaceutical companies. These com- panies not only set up hair loss websites that pretend to support men (yet actually just serve as disguised adverts), but also commission and fund 'neutral' hair loss research. Consequently, men who have hair loss see it as an isolating illness that requires specific 'treatments'. These ‘treat- ments’ are only available from these phar- maceutical companies. To move past the medicalisation of hair loss and allow men to accept it without buying into expensive, risky or time-con- suming ‘treatments’, it is essential to have transparency in research, resist pharma- ceutical influence and celebrate the diver- sity of appearance in the media. Being culturally attractive In the author's experience, when men are asked what society believes the perfect man looks like, after saying 'muscular', 'tall' and 'lean', they will eventually talk about head hair and say 'oh and of course he’s not bald'. This isn’t because head hair amount is unimportant, but because it’s considered so indisputably important. Unless men are fully shaved and compensate this with the muscularity and machismo of Vin Diesel and Bruce Willis, hair loss is not consid- ered culturally attractive. Pop psychology will tell us that this per- ception of hair loss is all to do with sur- vival of the fittest, stating that men with hair loss just aren’t that biogenetically fit. This approach to psychology will also sup- port the idea that men with full heads of hair have better genes and women select them because they want the best for their offspring. This kind of evolutionary psy- chology is often just used to legitimise the status quo and is highly convenient story- telling to justify restrictive gender roles. After all, most people choose partners for more than their genes, and being bald doesn’t make you unattractive. However, there is a more obvious reason why hair loss is seen by many as unattrac- tive and a problem. Last year, fantastic research by Kevin Harvey looked at how hair loss was portrayed across eight popu- lar hair loss websites (Harvey, 2013). He found that, through images and text that were used, hair loss was generally depicted as a lonely illness that made men unloved. Hair loss websites and research: a hard sell masquerading as support? In a world where the media disproportionately features men with a full head of hair, the male population is made to feel that hair loss is an isolating 'illness' that needs to be cured. In this article, Glen Jankowski highlights the influence of pharmaceutical companies on these issues and draws aesthetic practitioners' attention to the overuse of the word 'proven' GLEN JANKOWSKI PhD student, Leeds Metropolitan University, Leeds e: G.Jankowski@ leedsmet.ac.uk © MA Healthcare Ltd. Downloaded from magonlinelibrary.com by 160.009.042.062 on June 16, 2017. Use for licensed purposes only. No other uses without permission. All rights reserved.
Transcript
Page 1: Hair loss websites and research: a hard sell masquerading ... · maceutical companies. To move past the medicalisation of hair loss and allow men to accept it without buying into

PSYCHOLOGY ▼

294 Journal of AESTHETIC NURSING ► July/August 2014 ► Volume 3 Issue 6

© 2

014

MA

Hea

lthca

re L

td

Furthermore, hair loss only requires 'treat-ment' for balding loners to be transformed into follicularly-abundant men who are happy, successful and surrounded by loved ones. And where could one get this 'treatment'? Pharmaceutical companies, of course—the very ones that set up and own the websites used by many men.

Profit is kingOne of the clear reasons why hair loss is considered unattractive is because phar-maceutical companies make money when men buy their expensive and lifelong 'treatments'. As Susie Orbach (2014) rightly pointed out: 'Companies are mining our bodies for profit.'

But sadly this isn’t the only place phar-maceutical companies are influential. Our understandings of 'treatments' are also dic-tated by the companies too. When the au-thor did a basic literature review of studies on the psychosocial impact of hair loss, he noticed a strange thing. Studies by differ-ent authors, published in different journals and on different dates kept using the same poorly-constructed question in their sur-veys. This was because the same marketing company had been employed by pharma-ceutical companies to ‘assess’ the impact of hair loss and pass if off as a study in a re-search journal. Other studies (so far there are at least nine of them) are either funded by a pharmaceutical company or have been authored by one of the company's employ-ees (Jankowski, 2014).

These studies were published in scientific journals that appear to be independently exploring the impact of hair loss on men’s wellbeing. Therefore, when readers pick up the article, they will likely expect it to ex-plore how other men deal with hair loss, when instead the content being read is a

By the age of 30 years it’s a third of men, by the age of 50 years it’s half, and by 70 years most men will expe-rience it (Knott, 2013; NHS Choices,

2013). Have you guessed it yet? It’s hair loss. But going by the UK's media, you wouldn’t know it. The majority of men featured in the UK's men’s magazines, dating forums and porn websites don’t just have muscles and a seriously low level of body fat—they are likely to have symmetrical faces, mini-mal body hair, and most crucially of all a full head of hair. In fact, of the 4934  im-ages of men the author coded in recent is-sues of Men’s Health, FHM, Attitude and Gay Times, only 7% showed any sign of hair loss (Jankowski et al, 2014).

So if hair loss affects many men, why is it so rarely represented? And why on the rare occasions when hair loss is represented is it depicted as an isolating illness that re-quires treatment? The answer is hair loss pharmaceutical companies. These com-panies not only set up hair loss websites that pretend to support men (yet actually just serve as disguised adverts), but also commission and fund 'neutral' hair loss research. Consequently, men who have hair loss see it as an isolating illness that requires specific 'treatments'. These ‘treat-ments’ are only available from these phar-maceutical companies.

To move past the medicalisation of hair loss and allow men to accept it without

buying into expensive, risky or time-con-suming ‘treatments’, it is essential to have transparency in research, resist pharma-ceutical influence and celebrate the diver-sity of appearance in the media.

Being culturally attractiveIn the author's experience, when men are asked what society believes the perfect man looks like, after saying 'muscular', 'tall' and 'lean', they will eventually talk about head hair and say 'oh and of course he’s not bald'. This isn’t because head hair amount is unimportant, but because it’s considered so indisputably important. Unless men are fully shaved and compensate this with the muscularity and machismo of Vin Diesel and Bruce Willis, hair loss is not consid-ered culturally attractive.

Pop psychology will tell us that this per-ception of hair loss is all to do with sur-vival of the fittest, stating that men with hair loss just aren’t that biogenetically fit. This approach to psychology will also sup-port the idea that men with full heads of hair have better genes and women select them because they want the best for their offspring. This kind of evolutionary psy-chology is often just used to legitimise the status quo and is highly convenient story-telling to justify restrictive gender roles. After all, most people choose partners for more than their genes, and being bald doesn’t make you unattractive.

However, there is a more obvious reason why hair loss is seen by many as unattrac-tive and a problem. Last year, fantastic research by Kevin Harvey looked at how hair loss was portrayed across eight popu-lar hair loss websites (Harvey, 2013). He found that, through images and text that were used, hair loss was generally depicted as a lonely illness that made men unloved.

Hair loss websites and research: a hard sell masquerading as support?In a world where the media disproportionately features men with a full head of hair, the male population is made to feel that hair loss is an isolating 'illness' that needs to be cured. In this article, Glen Jankowski highlights the influence of pharmaceutical companies on these issues and draws aesthetic practitioners' attention to the overuse of the word 'proven'

GLEN JANKOWSKI

PhD student,Leeds MetropolitanUniversity, Leedse: [email protected]

© MA Healthcare Ltd. Downloaded from magonlinelibrary.com by 160.009.042.062 on June 16, 2017.Use for licensed purposes only. No other uses without permission. All rights reserved.

Page 2: Hair loss websites and research: a hard sell masquerading ... · maceutical companies. To move past the medicalisation of hair loss and allow men to accept it without buying into

Volume 3 Issue 6 ► July/August 2014 ► Journal of AESTHETIC NURSING 295

▼ PSYCHOLOGY

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» We must be sceptical when it comes to the word 'proven'.

Publication bias skews the evidence and leads

health professionals and the public

to think treatments are useful when they

may not be «

disguised advert or advertorial for a phar-maceutical 'treatment'.

The power of 'proven'Officially, finasteride and minoxidil are the only two hallowed 'treatments' proven to be effective in preventing certain kinds of hair loss among some men. However, it is impor-tant for health professionals and patients to remain sceptical when it comes to the word 'proven'. As Goldacre (2012) brilliantly high-lighted, pharmaceutical companies' influ-ence goes much further than by just funding research. Often when the research is funded, the researcher will be made to sign a gagging clause so that if the company isn’t happy with a finding the study won’t be published, and nobody will know about it. This publication bias, where only findings showing effective-ness are published, skews the evidence and leads aesthetic practitioners and the public to think certain treatments are useful when they may not be.

Although there are published randomised controlled trials (RCTs) attesting to the ef-fectiveness of finasteride and minoxidil, nobody knows whether other RCTs were conducted nor whether these RCTs also found the treatments to be effective. And because it’s not just people’s bank balances that these treatments are damaging, but also potentially their physical health as well (e.g. finasteride can cause an increased risk of prostate cancer, headaches, libido dimin-ishment, and depression), this missing data is a serious problem.

Acceptance as an alternativeThe alternative to these 'treatments' to hair loss is sadly the one least heard of: accept-ance. Baldness is not an illness and doesn’t have to be socially isolating nor devastating. It is possible and indeed cheaper, healthier and infinitely easier to help men to accept their hair loss. In fact, in one study that wasn’t influenced by a hair loss pharmaceu-tical company, researchers found that men who accepted their hair loss and let it show coped better than men who were trying to hide it (Kranz, 2011).

ConclusionWhen hair loss is depicted as a problem, so that more men cover their hair loss by us-ing wigs, seeking hair loss transplants or by staying indoors, we start to forget the al-ternative (Wiseman, 2014). It is possible to not only to look ‘good’, but also to be happy, successful and loved without conforming to corporate-dictated appearance ideals.

ReferencesGoldacre B (2012) Bad Pharma: How Drug Companies

Mislead Doctors and Harm Patients. Harper Collins, New York

Harvey K (2013) Medicalisation, pharmaceutical promo-tion and the Internet: a critical multimodal discourse analysis of hair loss websites. Social Semiotics 23(5): 691–714. doi: 10.1080/10350330.2013.777596

Jankowski GS (2014) Hairloss research in bed with Big Pharma. http://tinyurl.com/lunnkxt (Accessed 19 June 2014)

Jankowski GS, Fawkner H, Slater A, Tiggemann M (2014) Are gay men’s magazines more “appearance potent” than straight men’s magazines in the UK? In press

Knott L (2013) Male pattern baldness. http://tinyurl.com/c5ajwcj (Accessed 19 June 2014)

Kranz D (2011) Young men’s coping with androge-netic alopecia: acceptance counts when hair gets thinner. Body Image 8(4): 343–8. doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2011.06.006

NHS Choices (2013) Hair loss (alopecia) http://tinyurl.com/k25mjog (Accessed 19 June 2014)

Orbach S (2014) Weekend Woman’s Hour: Body image, relationships and children. Campaigning families. http://tinyurl.com/lobm2q8 (Accessed 25 June 2014)

Wiseman E (2014) Is cosmetic surgery now a normal part of modern life? http://tinyurl.com/p8ludnq (Ac-cessed 19 June 2014)

Key points ► Hair loss is significantly underrepresented in the media

► Treatments for hair loss are heavily promoted despite hair loss being a benign condition

► Pharmaceutical companies have great influence on hair loss research and hair loss websites

► It is important to resist medicalisation and for appearance diversity to be celebrated in the media

In 2013, Kevin Harvey found that hair loss was generally depicted online as a lonely illness that made men unloved. Men with hair loss are often forced to feel isolated by others

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© MA Healthcare Ltd. Downloaded from magonlinelibrary.com by 160.009.042.062 on June 16, 2017.Use for licensed purposes only. No other uses without permission. All rights reserved.


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