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Haircoloring Special Effects
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology
Cosmetology:
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
“Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. The fearful are
caught as often as the bold”
Helen Keller
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Objectives• Demonstrate special effects
haircoloring techniques; cap, foil and balayage
• Understand special problems encountered in haircoloring
• List safety precautions in haircoloring
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Highlighting• Some strands lighter• Illusion of depth• Does not contrast• Details more visible
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Reverse Highlighting• Low lighting• Some strands darker• Dark areas recede
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Cap Techniques• Lightener or high-lift color• Rinsed and shampooed• Towel-blotted and conditioned• Toned if desired
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Foil Techniques• Sliced or weaved • Placed on foil or plastic wrap• Apply lightener or color• Sections sealed
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Foil Patterns• Face-frame• Half-head• Three-quarter head• Full-head
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Waterproof cape• Towel• Foil• Gloves• Plastic clips• Bowl/brushes
• Tail comb• Applicator brush• Lightener• Record card• Applicator bottle
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Do patch test• Do client consultation• Remove and store jewelry• Drape client• Shampoo, towel dry• Do strand test
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Slice hair at crown area
• Brush on lightener• Fold foil• Use comb to crease• Clip foil
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Clip hair up• Continue down back center• Release the clipped up foils• Divide into 2 sections• Apply lightener
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Move to other side• Move to top• Apply lightener• Continue to front• Process according to strand test
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Remove foils, shampoo, rinse• Apply glaze• Work into hair; process• Rinse, shampoo, condition• Style as desired
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Perform cleanup and sanitation• Rinse and disinfect• Record results
Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Cleanup and
Sanitation
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Balayage• Lightener
applied• Subtle effects
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Toning• Nonoxidative toner• Traditional semipermanent• Demipermanent
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Used when:– Slight change desired– Hair processes rapidly– Highlight natural color in single application
Highlighting Shampoo Tints
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Highlighting Shampoo• Shampoo and hydrogen peroxide• Natural haircolor slightly lightened• No patch test required
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Special Problems• Gray hair • Yellow discoloration
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Special Problems• Formulating for gray hair
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Presoftening• Mix according to manufacturer’s
directions• Apply to resistant area• Process at room temperature• Remove color• Apply desired level of color
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Rules for Effective Color Correction
• Do not panic• Determine true problem• Determine cause of problem• Develop solution• One step at a time• Never guarantee exact results• Do strand test
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Damaged Hair Characteristics• Rough texture• Overporous condition• Brittle and dry• Susceptible to breakage• No elasticity• Spongy and matted• Color fades
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Damaged Hair Treatments• Penetrating conditioner• Finishing rinse• Postpone further chemicals• Between service conditioning• Recommend retail products
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Fillers• Conditioner fillers• Color fillers
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Color Filler Advantages• Deposits color to faded ends• Helps hair hold color• Prevents streaking• Prevents off-color results• More uniform, natural looking in a tint• More uniform when tinting hair back to
natural color
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Selecting Correct Filler• Replace missing primary color• Apply directly to hair or mix with
haircolor
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Tips for Red• Warm, coppery reds use red-orange
base• Hot, fiery reds use red-violet or true
red• Use no-lift deposit-only to refresh• If gray is present, add natural color• Refresh with soap cap
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Tips for Brunettes• Avoid orange, brassy tones• Cover gray• Highlight deep or caramel color
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Tips for Blonds• Brown to blond• Covering gray hair• Double process• High-lift blonds• Lowlights
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Common Haircolor Solutions• Green cast• Overall haircolor too light• Overall haircolor too dark• Restoring blond to natural color
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Haircolor Safety Precautions• Administer patch test• Do not apply if abrasions are present• Do not apply over metallic tint• Do not brush hair before service• Read and follow manufacturer’s
directions
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Haircolor Safety Precautions• Sanitize tools and implements• Drape properly• Do strand test• Use bottle or bowl for mixing• Do not mix until ready to use;
discard left over tint
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Haircolor Safety Precautions• Wear protective gloves• Don’t let color get in eyes• Do not overlap during retouch• Use mild shampoo• Wash hands
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Summary and Review• What are the 3 most commonly used
methods for highlighting?• What are fillers, and for what purpose
are they used?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• List at least 10 safety precautions to follow during haircolor process
Summary and Review
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Congratulations!You’ve just completed
another unit of study toward program completion