ISSUE 71

SolomonsSOLOMON AIRLINE’S COMPLIMENTARY INFLIGHT MAGAZINE www.flysolomons.com

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THE SEA is more like soup in this part of bay near Gavutu. It’s warm and full of ingredients. The runoff from the surrounding islands keeps the water murky with sediment, like you’re diving in the dark shadow of something foreboding.

But it’s also full of lots more very interesting things.

In May 1942, the Japanese landed on nearby Tulagi after a tiny force of British colonial and Australian troops had evacuated just hours before.

About 400 mainly naval troops then set up

a small command post and seaplane base as part of Operation Mo - the official Japanese military plan to invade and occupy territory around Australia and the South Pacific.

Allied forces began their attacks against the occupying Japanese even as they were unloading, heralding the start of the vicious Guadalcanal campaign that would last until February 1943.

Most of the wrecks near Gavutu, just over two kilometres to the east of Tulagi, are aircraft, the most prominent of these being six massive ‘Mavis’ 4-engine flying boats sunk

WWII HEROES:

in thedeep

AceAce

Is this sunken aircraft the most significant archaeological find of recent times. Roderick Eime dives the waters of Gavutu to

investigate a discovery that was the ride of a famous American pilot

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at their moorings that August when the US Marines made their big comeback.

Today I’m returning to Tulagi to investigate something special: a new and intriguing find that was unknown when I last visited in 2010.

I meet Bob Norton, a Kiwi ex-serviceman and the new proprietor of the Raiders Hotel in Tulagi, a quaint and peaceful waterfront hotel in the little former British pre-war colonial capital.

The ideally located pub is sheltered from the nasty stuff out in the sound, but still has a tranquil view across the bay to little

Mokambo Island to the NE and beyond.Attached to the Raiders Hotel, named after

the force of US Marines who liberated the island in a fierce battle in August 1942, is his dive shop, with tender tied directly to the old wharf.

First off we dive the well-known wrecks of the large ‘Mavis’ flying boats.

These are well documented and frequently dived and the huge machines make for a satisfying exploration in just 25 metres of water.

But Bob is just warming me up for the best

bit. He is excited to show me a wreck of a US Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat fighter plane only recently discovered. Or re-discovered?

From pictures and model kits I recall as a kid, the stubby little aircraft was not a particularly pretty thing.

The flat radial engine, short square wings and bulbous fuselage were in stark contrast to the attractive lines of other contemporary planes like the British Spitfire or its main adversary, the Zero.

The pilot sat high up like he was riding a fat camel.

Beneath the tranquil waters of Gavutu lie the remains of some of famous World War II wrecks

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However, what is particularly noteworthy of this find, since dubbed ‘The Gavutu Wildcat’, is that it is believed to be the aircraft of 1st Lt James E. Swett, one of the US Marine Corps most decorated pilots.

Solomons-born WWII historian and shipwreck researcher, Ewan Stevenson, who was aboard the HMNZS Resolution when the sonar scan revealed the aircraft four years ago, told me via email that while the wreck is yet to be absolutely verified, he is confident his theory will be borne out.

The circumstances of the ditching are remarkable in themselves. On 7 April 1943, a massive Japanese air raid took place on US shipping on recaptured Guadalcanal and Tulagi. This was 22-year-old Swett’s first day of service and during the torrid 15-minute air battle, Swett shot down seven attacking ‘Val’ dive bombers making him an instant ‘ace’ and Medal of Honor recipient on day one.

As we descend down a coral encrusted mooring line Bob has set up, the shape of the little plane is slowly revealed through the gloom. I’m not just looking at sunken scrap metal, this is history and possibly one of the most famous surviving US aircraft in the Pacific Theatre.

As Bob and I swim over the plane, sitting

neatly upright in 40 metres of water, it’s clear that it has not received a lot of attention. A couple of missing instruments makes me wonder whether we are in fact among the first to explore the wreck, although there are no telltale rough efforts of brutal scavengers who often tear open the wings to get at the big 50-caliber machine guns and ammo.

And there are all the hallmarks of Swett’s 15 minutes of terror. The nose and engine is torn off from the water impact and the canopy is gone. Some gaping holes on the upper wing surface could be the AA hits Swett received from his comrades on the ground.

Swett recalls this exploit in a documentary made shortly before his death at age 88 in 2009.

“.. after the sixth one went down, I got overconfident and on the next one the rear gunner stuck his gun practically in my face and let me have it!”

The frantic Japanese rear gunner, staring death in the face, sent a burst of fire into the Wildcat’s cockpit, shattering the canopy and sending sharp fragments everywhere. Swett had also taken hits from his own anti-aircraft (AA) gunners on the ground, damaging a wing, such was the intensity of the battle.

“... when he put a bullet in my oil cooler and I knew it was time to get out of there. I thought I could get back to base but the engine seized, so I headed for the water.”

His ammunition expended and his plane shot up, Swett was forced to ditch and, stunned from the violent impact, he found himself trapped in the cockpit for a few harrowing minutes as the plane quickly sank. Finally afloat, he was rescued, recuperated and returned to service, surviving the war with 16 kills and passing away at the ripe old age of 88 in 2009.

After a few minutes at this depth I’m starting to feel the first pangs of nitrogen narcosis,

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a common symptom for divers descending past 25 metres, so I’m doubly careful to watch my step and pay attention.

For a moment I am transfixed by a pair of massive trevally lurking beneath the port wing. I’m still mildly euphoric when we surface 20 minutes later, but I put this down to the excitement of the exploration, rather than any delayed effect of the gases.

The aircraft is now a site of considerable value and importance and Bob is careful not to disclose the precise location for fear of disrespectful divers helping themselves to souvenirs.

As a parting word of advice, Stevenson writes “This site requires utmost respect from divers to preserve the archaeological integrity. Please do not touch or tamper with this site. In particular, please do not remove any ammunition from the ammo bays, as this information is critically required for archaeological confirmation of the site.”

Ewan Stevenson and his colleagues are adding to their tally of aircraft and shipwrecks all the time and the expedition of November 2014 was a particularly lucrative effort with numerous new finds added to the database. Few, however, would have the significance of this cute little sunken warbird.

For more information about wreck finding in the Solomons, see: www.archaehistoria.org For detailed accounts of wreck finds and history, see www.pacific-wrecks.org

To dive any of these wrecks near Tulagi, contact Bob Nelson at Raiders Hotel - Tulagi www.rodei.me/raiders_tulagi Ph: +677 32070

For more tourist information, see www.flysolomons.com

LEST WE FORGET

Top, left: Camel ride ... 1st Lt James E Swett was a master behind the controls of the US

Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat fight plane.

Above: The wreck of a wildcat tells the story of some fierce battles

against Japanese fighter planes during WWII.

Photos: SUPPLIED

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Our Destination

By Roderick Eimes

AUSTRALIA'S GOLD COAST is a diverse city, offering action packed days and fun-filled nights enjoyed by more than 11 million visitors each year.

The 57 kilometres of sand and surf, 100,000 hectares of World Heritage listed rainforest, award winning dining, active pursuits and an ever-evolving events calendar and more than 300 days of sunshine annually confirm the Gold Coast as a year-round destination of choice.

As a holiday destination, the Gold Coast serves up more attractions and venues than any other in the Southern Hemisphere.

Whether on a solo adventure, travelling with a loved one or bringing the whole family the Gold Coast has an experience to suit.

BeachesThe Gold Coast boasts 42 golden beaches each with their own

personality. Each is ideal in its own way, with a natural energy to revitalise the senses.

Southern Gold Coast is home to world famous surf breaks including Snapper Rocks, Duranbah, Coolangatta, Kirra and Currumbin Alley. Burleigh Heads is the complete package with barrelling waves, a scenic headland and a cosy, coastal setting.

For beginners, a learn-to-surf class is definitely in order. For family fun, you can’t go past the popular swimming spots of

Main Beach, Surfers Paradise, Northcliffe and Broadbeach. While the sheltered Tallebudgera and Currumbin Creeks are favourites amongst the locals for stand-up paddle boarding.

All that glitters

The Gold Coast experience

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Whether you fly in during the

day or night, the majestic skyline

of the Gold Coast never fails to

amaze visitors to this city

HinterlandEnergise the body, mind and spirit while taking in the natural

wonders of the Gold Coast’s World Heritage-listed Springbrook and Lamington National Parks and the Tamborine Mountain township, all just a 40 minute drive from Gold Coast beaches.

Cascading waterfalls and spectacular views along winding rainforest tracks help visitors get back to nature and explore the ancient history of the delightful National Parks and reserves.

Open every day for breakfast, lunch and now also open for dinner every Friday-Sat-Sun.

Cool air, convenient spotCoffee, cold drinks, delicious food.

Opening HoursMonday to Thursday: 7am-4pm

Friday, Saturday & Sunday: 8am till lateCatering and cakes for all occasions.

Email: coffee@limelounge.com.sbP.O.Box C148, Commonwealth Street, Point Cruiz, Honiara. P: +677 23064

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Our Destination

Dining and Nightlife The Gold Coast is home to more than 500

restaurants and cafes. The warm climate and inviting outdoor lifestyle are perfect for a 24/7 vibrant social scene with stylish lounge bars, surf clubs, pubs, cafes and alfresco restaurants.

The multicultural nature of the Gold Coast has brought about a deliciously successful food and wine industry, cultivating everything from soft-shell crabs and goat cheese to locally bred Wagyu beef and award-winning boutique wines.

EventsSpectacular venues, stunning weather and

a serious sense of fun - it’s no wonder the Gold Coast is home to some of Australia’s most iconic events.

Since winning the bid to host the 2018 Commonwealth Games, the City is buzzing with energy and excitement. And rightly so, because if there’s one thing Gold Coasters know, it’s how to host a party.

Each year, lovers of sport, food, wine, fashion, music, and the arts flock to our sun-drenched city to find their kind of fun in a calendar brimming with fantastic events. Whatever your passion, the Gold Coast has an event that celebrates it.

WellnessAustralia’s Gold Coast has developed an

undeniable reputation for its first class day spas and health retreats offering an extensive range of signature treatments. Attention to detail, personalised service and an overall commitment to excellence are offered within soothing and tranquil surrounds.

Gwinganna Health Retreat has redefined the

Sun, surf & fun is part of your holiday deal

Natural mystic .... the Gold Coast is also

known for its natural beauty inland (left)

apart from its world-famous beaches.

Right: A bridge forms from rocks at

Springbrook

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parametres for which day spas are measured both within Australia and internationally.

While O’Reilly’s Lost World Spa set amidst the Gold Coast hinterland prides itself on treatments that utilise local indigenous plants plus the healing properties of vino-therapy, making use of extracts from grapes grown in O’Reilly’s own vineyard.

Closer to the beach, Palazzo Versace Spa, Q1, L’Aqua Day Spa at the Watermark Hotel and the eforea Spa at Hilton Hotel guarantees

there is a spa treatment to suit all tastes.

Shopping and RetailAustralia’s Gold Coast continues to evolve

as a haven for retail enthusiasts with a vast array of shopping options headlined by signature fashion boutiques and larger iconic department store brands.

With some of Australia’s largest retail centres and most stylish fashion precincts, the grand assortment of Gold Coast retail experiences

has something for everyone.The two major shopping malls are at

Broadbeach and Robina as well as smaller retail precincts across the Gold Coast in areas including Southport, Harbour Town, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise, Burleigh, Coolangatta, Labrador, and Sanctuary Cove.Accommodation

Australia’s Gold Coast allows you to choose the style, location and level of accommodation to suit your holiday needs.

Sun, surf & fun is part of your holiday deal

Save the dateDecember 3-6, 2015 Australian PGA ChampionshipRACV Royal Pines Resort, BenowaJanuary 9, 2016 Jeep Magic Millions Race Day January 29-31, 2016 Burleigh Pro 2016, Burleigh Heads February 5-28, 2016 Sand Safari, Surfers Paradise

46 | SOLOMONS - ISSUE 71

Photo: ONOC

Our Destination

Indulge at one of many luxury hotels, shack up in a towering high-rise offering a bird’s eye view of the surf, stay for a while in one of Australia’s best apartment resorts, forget about the world in a hinterland retreat or grab a beach shack and some friends for the ultimate short break.

The region’s year round weather ensures an unforgettable stay whether basking in secluded opulence, pitching a tent on top of a mountain or taking a houseboat to a myriad of island getaways. As Australia’s favourite holiday destination, there are literally thousands of places to stay, it’s just a matter of deciding upon your own special space.

Hot and Happening(NightQuarter Opening Night – 28 Nov)NightQuarter is the Gold Coast's newest

culture and entertainment precinct, featuring night markets, micro-restaurants, emerging fashion and a unique live music space.

The shipping container city will provide 120 local speciality food purveyors, designers,

musicians and craftspeople with an opportunity to bring their concepts to life.

Spread out across different precincts such as Tapas Street, Hawker Street, High Street, The Paddock and others, NightQuarter is a festival celebrating food, music and culture. Located at Helensvale, the new precinct will be open every Friday and Saturday night from 4-10pm, following the opening night on 28 November. www.nightquarter.com.au

Commonwealth Games HQ officially opened

More than 1000 Games staff will eventually fill the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games (GC2018) headquarters officially opened at Ashmore on Thursday 22 October.

The offices are located at the TAFE Queensland Gold Coast Campus and will continue to expand during the lead up to the Games in April 2018. The headquarters are a hub for the planning and roll out of the Commonwealth Games with the fit-out representing the optimism and positive energy

of the Gold Coast. The opening was also attended by GOLDOC

staff and indigenous artist Chern'ee Sutton who presented a painting Ajarku Muruu which in the language of the Chern'ee's Kalkadoon people means All One Country. GC2018 will be staged from 4-15 April 2018. www.gc2018.com

New Guided Walking Tours with City Adventures

Discover some of the hidden treasures the Gold Coast has to offer on a guided walking tour or self-guided scavenger hunt with City Adventures. Stroll through Surfers Paradise and along the beautiful beachside and get to know the iconic landmarks, 'must see' attractions and the hidden gems. With photo challenges, taste testing and daily prizes on offer, there is no better way to get to know this city. For the launch of City Adventures, the team is offering free City Scavenger Hunts during the months of November (conditions apply). www.cityadventures.com.au

Researched and compiled by Roderick Eime

Mesmerising sight at Currumbin

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Photo: ONOC

Phot

o: C

HAR

LES

KADA

MA

Travel to the Gold Coast on Solomon Airlines regular flights to Brisbane and Sydney. Visit the Gold CoastFor schedules and bookings, log into www.flysolomons.comStay in touch with GC on Social Media:Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VisitGoldCoast Instagram: https://instagram.com/visitgoldcoast/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/visitgoldcoast YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/VisitGoldCoast