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Grant F. C. Gillard
Producing a Ton of Honey
General Info
www . Slideshare . net
Gillard5 @ charter.net
https: // www . Createspace.com / 4111886
www . grantgillard . Weebly . Com
What’s at stake? Why is this important?
Colony survival – bees need honey
Spouse/partner looking for return on the investment in all that bee equipment
Relatives are looking for some of that free honey you’ve been promising them
Potential for financial opportunities
But mostly,Honey is the confirmation…
“I am a Beekeeper!”
And the world says,“Show me the honey!”
Quotes:C.C. Miller, “Almost every beekeeper
dreams of producing the most honey from their hives, then dreads how they are going to get rid of it.”
Roger Morse, “The person who seeks to maximize their bees’ honey production gets the most in terms of profit and enjoyment whatever their reason for keeping bees.”
Honey Production is not hardAfter all, who does the work?
Key ElementsThe Timing of Management
We set the stage, we prime the pumpWe help the bees do what they do best.
Luck with Weather ConditionsDry periods better than too much rain
Healthy Colony of BeesYoung productive queens
An aggressive army of foragersPrudent mite management
Never as easy as you think…..
☻
סס☻
Foraging Opportunities
North Ave Harvest 60 lbs per hiveSouth Ave Harvest 100 – 120 lbs
What Does It Take?
#1 Overwinter
Strong Colonies
What’s at stake?Strong colonies survive winter
betterStrong colonies deal with health
issues betterStrong colonies begin laying eggs
earlier in the springColony growth expands
exponentially, start with more bees, end up with more bees
Five cornerstones for winter survivalYoung queen, markedLots of young bees, strong population
(combine weak colonies)Minimal pest problems, low mitesAbundant stores, preferably honey, candy
boardSufficient ventilation (upper entrance)
And all of this has to be done prior to winter.Timing is important.
What Does it Take?
#2Rapid Spring
Build Up
What’s at stake?Earlier egg laying means a bigger
population for the nectar flow
Productive, young queens lay more eggs
Queens start laying in January, and everything needs to be in place long before winter arrives.
Management Strategies1. Feeding syrup early – 1:1 syrup
Covers periods of rainy weather
2. Pollen substitutes – nutritional supplements
Feed the bees that feed the bees
3. Frame manipulation – expanding the brood nest
Moving empty frames into brood nestMore opportunities to lay eggs
Right Kind of BeesWe have an early flow in SE Missouri
Begins in mid-AprilComes on strong Mother’s Day to 4th of July
Italians and Buckfast, and ferals work bestCarniolans and Russians – too slowBrother Adam: Queens raised in the summer
(nectar and pollen abundant), then overwintered will be the most productive (annual requeening?)
Mel Disselkoen: Queens mated after June 15th (summer equinox) lay more eggs into winter
What Does it Take?
#3Swarm
Prevention
What’s at stake?When a colony swarms, the
productive “margin” of bees leaves.These are the bees that make up the
foragers that bring in the surplus nectar.
If the colony swarms…you’ve given away your honey crop.
Swarming takes time to prepare, but the “signs” are not necessarily self-evident
Swarm Prevention“Congestion” is the trigger that sets up
swarmingCongestion is the competition for open cells
between: a) a productive, young queen looking to lay eggs and b) abundant, incoming nectar
needing storage (or feeding more than necessary).
Simple solution: provide more cells space with drawn comb
Stay one step ahead of the need
What Does it Take?
#4Intelligent Supering
What’s at stake?
Incoming nectar might be stored in brood nestCongestion – swarmingYou have to harvest brood frames
Intelligent SuperingStart with one or two supersDrawn comb preferredAdd supers as needed (before you think they’re needed)
Bottom super (sliding new supers under existing supers)**
**U of GA study, set up harvest
Queen Excluders (honey excluders?)
Bottom Entrance Bottom Entrance Closed Bottom Entrance Control Queen Excluder Queen Excluder
Additional Upper Entrance
Less Brood (½) Slightly more brood Less Honey (1/3) Slightly more honey Skunk Predation Less Bearding in heat
What Does it Take?
#5Expedient Harvesting
Harvesting – two methods“Early and Often” --Remove frames as soon as frame is capped --Works if you have a room dedicated to
extracting
“Wait and Do it Once” --Weekend with family --Limited window of good weather
--Rented or borrowed extractor--Want to get it over with
Ray Nabors (ABJ Feb 2017, page 178)“Putting supers on as needed and taking full
ones off will not only increase honey production but keep colonies stronger.”
“A strong producing colony will be less active when honey stores are adequate for winter.”
“Once they have produced a large amount of honey, they seem to slow down.”
“They will put more effort into honey production if some honey is removed during the flow.”
Bee Removal from supers1. Pull frames and shake individually, no bee brush2. Install a bee escape, then return after 24 hours
(better: put on late in the day, return early the next)3. Fume boards – quick and easyPushes bees down, but reluctant to leave brood*
Bee-go – the most effective, the worst smellHoney Robber – Bee-go with cherry flavoringHoney Bandit – Really good, nice smell (Mann Lake)Fischer’s Bee Quick – good
Fume boards on stack of supers in truck - robbing
Best Bee Escape
Honey House ManagementThink: Product In – Product Out
Supers come inHoney is removedHoney is storedSupers go out
Drying RoomHeat source – electric heaterFansDehumidifier
Lowers moisture content – reduces granulationHoney extracts faster, filters fasterDon’t have to do the entire batch of supers
24 – 48 hoursNo longer than three daysSHB and “gummy” comb
Extracting framesUncapping options (hot or cold knife, uncapping
scratcher) RADA 10” serrated bread knifeDirectly into extractor or set in “holding” tub/tank (drips)
Drain cappingsWash cappings, Set them out for the bees (SHB)Melt
What Does it Take?
#6LocationLocationLocation
Foraging Opportunities
North Ave Harvest 60 lbs per hiveSouth Ave Harvest 100 – 120 lbs
Consider Moving Your BeesInconvenient…must be done at nightBees crawl, not fly…need their beauty
sleep, screen entrance? Tape all the cracks?
Unless you have forklifts, you need hives secured, strapped down, hand carts, young fellas with strong backs….
I move some hives from Cape Girardeau County to Scott County (different flow, later flow, second harvest).
What Does it Take?
#7Wildcard:
Artificially BoostForaging Population
How?
1. Combine marginal colonies
2. Add a swarm to an existing colony
3. Create a two-queen colony
Combine Marginal ColoniesAt beginning of flow…1. Remove queens (make nucs)
Combine queenless portion with queen-right
2. Stack brood chambers, separated by excludersTop with supersFrench version: The Skyscraper HiveSeparate after the flow
3. Simply stack the colonies and let them work it out.
Wildcard RationaleBasis: One colony of 60,000 bees will
produce more honey than two colonies of 30,000 each.
Why? A certain number of bees must stay home to take care of the brood. The rest are free to forage.
That number of “brood-caretakers” does not change significantly with increased colony populations.
Why does this work?Walter Gojmerac
Proportions of foragers
1 2 30
10000
20000
30000
40000
50000
60000
70000
Series2Series1
25 lbs. 68 lbs. 154 lbs.
Two Queen ManagementNot new
U of Wyoming 1940U of Wisconsin, Dr. Farrar, 1946 into
1950sRequires extra manipulations, tall hivesIs the additional labor worth the extra
honey?Most advantageous on mid-summer flows2nd queen needs 5 to 7 weeks to make an
optimal impact
Question: if six weeks remain in nectar flow, will this make a difference on early flows?Where can I get queens? (Remember reverse split?)
Red Belly Bee Farm - Facebook
Better Bee Tower Colony
General Info
www . Slideshare . net
Gillard5 @ charter.net
https: // www . Createspace.com / 4111886
www . grantgillard . Weebly . Com