How to Build Modern Furniture

7/24/2019 How to Build Modern Furniture

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HOW TO BUILD MODERN FURNITURE


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HOW TO

BUILD

Mario Dal Fabbro


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MODERN FURNITURE

JOHN MURRAY

FIFTY

ALBEMARLE

STREET LONDON WI


4/224

Reprinted 1961

. (L ' t \ .O

\ 0 1 0

e' " ~ " " t

Jis

F - f

F.

W.

Dodge Corporaiion

1957

Published in Great Britain 1959

by John Murray (Publishers) Ltd.

all(/ reprinted by Lithography by Jarrold and Sons Ltd, Norwich


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SECTION 1, General I n s t r u c t i o ~

General

General notes about wood

Wood changes

Seasoning of timber

,......

.

, Selecting and buying wood

Cutting and assembling the parts

Wood finish

Woodworking

Marking the materials

Basic woodworking operations

Sawing

Surfacing

Shaping

Joinery

Gluing wood

Methods of joining boards

Basic joints

Basic joints

Scarf joints

Rail joints

Middle rail joints

Rail-to-frame joints

Panel-td-frame joints

Frame joints

Middle frame joints

. Back panel joints

Knock-down joints

Joining rails to legs

Joining legs to furniture

Knock-down legs

Joining legs to upholstered furn iture

Joining metal legs to wood top

Metal leg end fittings

Wood leg end fittings

Plywood and curves

Plywood, blockboard

and

laminated

wood

I

Plywood hollow-frame

Veneer

Gra;]"direction in curved pieces

3

4

4

5

5

6

8

9

9

11

12

14

17

18

19

21

22

25

27

28

Constructing curves

Special uses

of

plywood

Covering edges and p

Edge treatment

Fastening fabric to board

Metal borders

Plastic borders

Application

of

fabric to doors

Doors

54

55

Door

stops 56

Door hinges 58

Table hinges 61

Special hinges -- _. - -

62

Pivot hinges .../ .

,=,C I J ' ~

; '

, C ~ r -

--, /.

Drop

doors

I

'


6/224

~

Upholstery

materials

105

100

Foam

rubber

108

.. .

I - Y

.......

'

.

101

Seats

109

: ; : - : - \ C y p ~ - ~ ' : : ' f f r ame S

chair and sofa frames

1'03

Backs

117

Armchair frame

104 Upholstery details

120

Upholstery tools

105

Chair angles

122

SECTION 2: Furniture

designs

"

Instructions for reading drawings

125

27.

Bench 2

164

28.

Sectional bookcase

166

1.

Family workbench

126

29.

Chair

167

2. Professional w o r k b e n ~ h

128

30.

Dining set 1: Table

168

3. Tool cabinets

130

31. Dining set 1: Armchair

170

4. Magazine rack

131

32. Dining set 1: Side chair

112

5.

Service cart

132

33.

Dining set 2: Side chair 173

6. Telephone cabinet

133

34.

Dining set 2: Armchair

174

7. Flower box

134

35. Dining set

2:

Table 176

8.

End

table I

135

36.

Easy chair

177

9. End table 2

136

37. 2

or

3 seater settee

J

179

10. End table 3

137

38.

Armless chair, 2 or 3 seater t t e e

180

1 I. Coffee table

138

39.

Armchair

182

12. Coffee table 2

139

40. Bed Settee

184

13. Side table

140 4l.

Dressing table 1

186

14. Extension dining table

141 42.

Dressing table 2

1

188

15. Television table

144 43.

Dressing table

stool

190

16. Record storage cabinet

145

44. Wardrobe

191

17. Radio cabinet 1 146

45. Chest 1

194

18. Radio cabinet 2 148

46. Chest 2

195

19.

Speaker cabinet 151 47. Chest 3 196

20. Open-shelf breakfront 152

48. Chest 4

198

21. Cabinet 1

154

49. Chest 5

200

22. Cabinet 2

156

50.

Single or double bed and night table

202

23. Desk 1

158

51.

Double bed

204

24.

Desk 2

_"

160

52. Beds and headboard

206

25.

Stool

162

53.

Night table

210

26. Bench I 163

Index

211


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SECT ION

1:

General" instructions


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9/224

In order to select the type of wood best

suited to the work to be done it

is

essential

to understand the characteristics of the ma

terial. I have, therefore, outlined some basic

information regarding its structure, as well

as methods of sawing and handling.

Structure of wood

Wood

is

derived from a tree. It

is

made up

of bundles of fibers or long tubes that run

parallel to the stem of the tree. These are

crossed

by other fibers that form the medul

lary or wood rays. These wood rays pass

from the center or pith to the bark and

serve to bind the units together. Concentric

rings are formed as a layer of wood is added

each year. These are called annual rings.

A-Partial section of a tree trunk

Note the location of its parts:

Medulla, or pith: This is the center of the

tree. I t

is

lighter in color and less strong

than the heartwood.

Heartwood: This section of the trunk, lo

cated between the medulla and the sap

wood, gives

us

the best building material.

Sapwood: The recent al1nual rings are con

tained here, between the heartwood and

cambium.

Cambium: This

is

the most recent

ring.

Bark: This external layer protects t n e l ~ t r e e .

Sawing the tree into planks

A tree is usually cut during the

when there

is

little sap in the wood. At

time the wood is less subject to fungus at

i

tack. After the bark has been stripped, the'

trunk

is

washed to prevent fungus, mold,

OJ;

other growth. This process also helps to

season wood.

At the end of the seasoning period the

trunk may

be

sawed into planks in any of a

number of different ways. One of the most

practical methods is sawing parallel to the

grhin. This

is

called plain, or bastard, saw

ing. Quarter sawing, another method,

is

used for higher quality work.

General Notes

About

Wood

GENERAL NOTES

ABOUT

WOOD

WOOD

R A Y S

--------._

CAMBIUM

--------

PIT

H

A

---_._----

-

-----,

HEART WOOD

I

- - - - - - - - - ~

I

\ I

\ I

I

t

\

"

\

\

',.\

"

- - - - - - - - - ~

ANNUAL RINGS

C-Quarter

sawing

3


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WOOD CHANGES

Planks undergo both warping and shrinking

during the seasoning process. Shrinking

is

most noticeable at the outer edges of the

plank, because the annual rings of the sap

wood are fresher and less dense. Warping

refers to the general change the plank

undergoes after being cut.

A-Warping

in a plank that includes the

pith

B-Warping

and

curvature of parallel

sawed (plain-sawed) planks: Note how the

curvature runs in a direction opposite to

the arc formed by the annual rings.

C-Aligning or

joining of two planks must

be done on their concave sides.

D-Joining two planks on their convex

sides will produce a weak joint.

A

r:--

I

I

I

L : ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

SEASONING

OF

TIMBER

It

is essential

that

timber be well seasoned

before it is used. The usual methods are as

follows:

Natural seasoning: In- this -method sawed

timber is exposed to

free air after

it

has

been carefully stacked.

Water seasoning:

A somewhat quicker

method

of

seasoning consists

of

immersing

. the timber in running water for about one

4

c

o

month. The water entering the pores

of

the

wood washes out the sap.

The

timber is

dried

in

the open air.

Artificial seasoning:

In

this method the

till1ber is placed in a drying kiln,

and

a

current of hot air is allowed to circulate

continuously between the layers. For some

woods

steam may be used. This

is

the fast

est method.

Wood

Changes


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After the design has been selected and

studied, the next step is the ordering of ma

terial. One method is to buy the timber in

standard lengths and cut the required pieces

as listed. Another method is to ask the tim

ber dealer to cut the material into the sizes

you. need. There will be a minimum

of

waste whichever method is used, because

standard timber sizes have been considered

in the planning

of

the designs.

SELECTING

AND BUYING WOOD

pheric conditions, but screws or loose joints

will permit shrinkage or expansion. How

ever, wood and plywood may

be

safely

combined in edge treatment, as shown on

page 52.

Another point to keep

in

mind

is

that both

soft and hard wood shrink

in

the process

of seasoning. Thus the wood

is

usually

l J

6

in. narrower than the nominal thickness.

This difference is

of consequence only

in

fit-

A void using solid wood and plywood to- ting such parts as doors, shelves, or

gether in the same piece of furniture, par- drawers. I f the wood

is

of a different thick-

ticularly if a flush

board

is

to be visible.

If

ness from that specified in the design, ad-

such a combination of materials

is

unavoid- justments must be made in the dimensions

able, glue should never be used for bonding of the par t to be applied. Therefore it

is

the parts. Plywood and solid wood react best to secure timber of a thickness as close

differently to drying glue and to atmos- ~ _

__

ssible to that specified.

:./

~

~ C I I / ' (

: / ' ~ ' ' ' ' ' ' - ' ' ' - ' , ' ' :It .

? ~ C r r ,. ~ f .\- .

4.

~ O : " : :

c.

c L ~ . i I N ~ c l . N . b A S ~ . ~ B L l N G THE

PARTS

; (, ~ ~ : ;:

~ ) /

Whether wood is shaped by hand or jj 6 ? ~ \ \ . . . ::; - e ' l i n i i U a J . n ~ h i e joint and substituting nails.

of woodworking machines, the process

c

0..).,- ,-CYl efete"lhty.parts are joined, all should

be

sists of removing small parts of wood

6 .

- :

1\

P b e ~ . 9 f t o make sure they will

fit.

sawing, planing, or chiseling in accordance -

----c

.

with the selected design. Instructions for assembly are provided with

After the design has been studied and suit

able wood selected, the various pieces can

be traced directly on the wood for cutting.

See

details, page

8.

The parts should be laid

out in such a way that the handsomest sur

faces of the wood will be seen in the fin-

ished piece. In the cutting operation itself;

accuracy

is

very important; if the parts are I.

to fit together as designed, the timber must I

be

cut at the correct angle. The saw cut

should fall

outside

the pencil line,

so

that

the board can be planed or filed to correct

dimensions. (A plane

is

used on flat sur

faces, and a file on curved edges.)

When the parts have been cut and finished

to the right sizes, the joints may be marked

and executed

as

indicated in the details.

Sometimes it

is

possible to save time by

Selecting

and Buying

the Wood

each design. The glue must be spread on

both surfaces to be joined, and the pieces

clamped together for several hours. Simple

clamps or screws and nails may be used to

apply pressure. Wood clamps may be made

by nailing blocks of wood to the ends of a

rail slightly longer than the piece being

glued, and applying pressure by inserting

wedges between the wood and the blocks.

Large assemblies

Before assembling a large piece of furni

ture, particularly a built-in unit, it is wise to

measure passageways to make sure it can

be

moved from the shop to the site that has

been picked for it. It may be necessary to

assemble the piece in two or three units in

the shop, and complete the assembly in the

room where the piece

is

to be installed.

5


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WOOD FINISH

The kind of finish a piece of furniture

should receive will depend upon the quality

and appearance of the wood, the

use

it

will

receive, decorating tastes, and

so

on. Noth

ing shows off the beauty of the wood-and

the builder's achievement -quite so well

as a "natural" finish. Or it may seem pref

erable to add a touch of bright color to the

decorating scheme of a room by painting

the piece. Nowadays furniture makers

sometimes achieve bold, striking effects by

the carefully planned

use

of contrasting

panels on the same piece: for example, the

drawer fronts of a chest might be enameled

or lacquered pure white, while the frame

could be a strong, deep tone of almost any

other color that would "go well" in the

room. A word of caution to the amateur

decorator:

if

you lack confidence

in

your

judgment, or are wavering between color

and natural finish, remember that the latter

is never in bad taste. Furthermore, a natu

ral. finish can later be painted over,

if

you

find you are not happy with it. It is a far

more difficult proposition to remove the

paint, if you later decide you prefer the

"natural" look.

The subject of wood finishing is too exten

sive to receive adequate treatment here, but

a few general pointers are worth giving:

Carefully sand smooth all surfaces, both be

fore and between coats of finish. Grade M2

sandpaper is recommended for raw wood;

finer grades of waterproof sandpaper

such as 0 or OO-are suitable between

6

finish coats, and may be dipped in water to

prevent dogging and minimize dust. Other

methods of smoothing the surfaces, such as

rubbing with

fine

steel wool, pumice, or

other fine abrasives, may also be used. Dust

should be allowed to settle before liquid

finishes are applied, and the air in the work

room should be clear and still. Be sure that

a coat of

finish

is thoroughly dry before

sanding and proceeding with the next coat,

and never rub or sand the final coat of paint

. or enamel. Various rubbing compounds or

"Flour" sandpaper may be sparingly used

after the final coat

of

shellac or varnish.

Preparation of surface

Most raw woods need careful preparation

before they can be painted or finished. Neg

lect of this essential preliminary will not

only increase the number of coats necessary

to obtain proper coverage-with conse

quent waste

of

materials and labor-but

will produce less satisfactory results. Fill

ers, primers, and unde.rcoats are' not

cheaper types of finishing material to be

used where they won't "sfiow"-they are

indispensable components of a proper

finish.

In applying finishes, use good brushes and

ceep them in good condition. It is best to

keep special brushes for special uses: one

brush for shellac, another for varnish, a

third for lacquer. A nylon brush should not

be used with shellac, as the alcohol solvent

will

attack the bristles.

Wood Finish


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Open-grained hardwoods must be filled.

If

the wood

is

to be stained, this operation

should precede filling

or

be combined with

it-filler-stain

preparations

are

available

in a number of shades.

I f

wood filler is ap

plied separately, it should be brushed or

wiped

on

and the excess rubbed off with a

clean rag.

I t s

important to follow the man

ufacturer's instructions faithfully with all

finishing materials.

Close-grained woods do

not

need to be

filled,

but

a

coat of thin

shellac is recom

mended to seal fir before varnishing, be

cause

of the

soft grain.

If

there

are any

knots

or

resin pockets in the wood, they

should be sealed

with

shellac

or knot

sealer.

Plastic wood

or

crack filler (in shades

to

match the wood, if a

natural

finish

is

se

lected) should be used

to

fill nail holes

or

crevices after they have been primed, either

by the first finish coat

or by

swabbing with

linseed oil

or

varnish.

Natural finishes

Among natural finishes, the least discolora- ;

tion of the raw wood

is

obtained with wax, ;

but this method also offers least protection :

against

hard

usage. A single

coat

of white

I

shellac

or

clear varnish should precede

the;

wax. Combined varnish-wax preparations

are also available.

j

Clear lacquer can yield striking results, and

, I

Wood Finish

WOOD FINISH

there are now preparations available which

make it possible to apply this traditiomilly

difficult material with a brush instead of a

spray-gun.

A "white" shellac finish will discolor wood

less than varnish, but

is

not waterproof. A

"5-lb cut" shellac contains 5 lb of shellac

gum to the gallon of alcohol; "4-lb cut" con

tains only 4 lb. Either of these concentra

tions will give good results,

but

the "3-lb

cut" frequently found in stores

is

not rec

ommended, except for preliminary coats,

which should be thin.

Varnish finish combines durability with the

attractiveness of a natural finish. Spar var

niSh

is

suitable for pieces like kitchen cabi

nets,

that

are exposed to moisture.

Other

types of varnish are suitable for high-gloss

effects,

and

some types have pigment added

. to combine the coloring effect of pa int with

the natural grain of the wood.

Paint

or

enamel finish

If

the wood

is

to be painted, it must first be

primed, although some special formulations

and most rubber-base paints are self-prim

ing.

If

it

is

to be enameled, best results will

be obtained by using an enamel undercoat

preparation.

It is

generally advisable to mix

a little

of

the finish coat into the white

primer

or

enamel undercoat, in order to

tint it,

and

provide a better base for

the

final pigment. This measure

is

especially

advisable if the final color

is

very deep.

7


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MARKING THE MATERIALS

After obtaining the rough wood from the

timber yard, mark out the various pieces

on

the wood using the straight yard rule

(A), the try square (B),

or

the sliding bevel

(C). If you use the two latter devices, re

member

that

one edge of the material

should be straight.

The marking gauge

(D)

is

used to trace

lines parallel to a straight border or edge.

The marker can be adjusted to vary the

distance from the edge.

The

function

of

the compass

(E)

is

the

scribing of circles

or

partial curves.

8

c

Marking

the Materials


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BASIC

WOODWORKING OPERATIONS

The basic types of woodworking opera

tions required to shape the pieces and

make the

joints

shown in this book are il

lustrated on pages 9 through 16. To de

scribe the actual method of working the

wood would require a whole book in itself,

but the text does suggest the tools-both

hand and

power-

for each operatIOn.

In general, the tools mentioned are those

that will do the job most efficiently, but be

cause some operations can be accomplished

in many ways, the choice of method will

depend upon such factors

as

the equipment

available, the number of similar or identi-

A-Rip cut (with grain)

Hand: Rip saw recommended, but cross-

I

cut saw may be used.

Power:

Circular saw.

I

or band saw.

I

C-Angle cut

Hand:

Cross-cut saw or, for small pieces,

tenon saw. Power: Circular saw or band

saw.

Basic Woodworking Operations

1

I,

cal operations to be performed, the degree

of precision necessary, and so on. For all

operations involving power tools, the char

acteristics of the particular equipment and

the manufacturer's recommendations for

its use will also need to be considered.

It should be understood that careful sand

ing of the wood is ordinarily required after

the wood has been worked to the proper

size and shape. Depending upon the opera

tion, planing or filing may also be neces

sary. In the text that follows, such opera

tions have not beell mentioned unless they

are essential to the description.

SAWING

8-Cross cut (across grain)

Hand: Cross-cut saw or, for small pieces,

tenon saw. Power: Circular saw

or

band

saw.

D-Miter cut (45 degrees)

Hand:

Cross-cut saw or, for small framing

pieces, miter saw in miter guide. Power:

Band saw

or

circular saw.

9


16/224

SAWING

A-Rip bevel (with grain)

Hand:

Rip saw recommended, but cross

cut saw may

be

used.

Power:

Circular saw.

C-Compound bevel

Hand:

Cross-cut saw or tenon saw.

Power:

Circular saw or band saw.

i

E-Curved cut

Hand:

Keyhole or compass saw, or (for

thin pieces) coping saw.

Power:

Band saw

or jig saw.

10

B-Cross bevel (across grain)

Hand:

Cross-cut saw or (for small pieces)

tenon saw.

Power:

Band saw or circular

saw.

D-Straight and curved cut

I

Hand:

Keyhole or compass. saw.

Power:

Band saw or jig saw.

F-Inside

cut

Drill hole (see 14A) to admit saw blade.

Hand:

Keyhole or compass saw, coping

saw.

Power:

Jig saw.

Sawing


17/224

A-Surfacing a side

Hand:

Jack plane followed by smoothing

plane. Power:

Jointer or belt sander.

C-Truing an edge (with grain)

Hand:

Jack plane followed by jointer plane.

Power: Jointer.

E-Chamfer

Hand:

Use planes as in C or D, above, in

conjunction with plane gauge if desired to

maintain proper angle.

Power:

As in C or

D,

above, or disc sander.

Surfacing

SURFACING

B-Surfacing two sides

Hand: Jack plane followed by smoothing

plane, with marking gauge to control thick

ness. Power: Jointer, thickness planer, and

belt sander.

D-Squaring an edge (end grain)

Hand: Block plane or smoothing plane.

Power:

Jointer, or disc sander.

F-Stopped chamfer

Hand:

Planes and

files. Power:

Jointer or

spindle molder.

11


18/224

SHAPING

A-Concave curve

Hand: Mallet and chisel directed toward

saw cut bisecting curve,

or

wood rasp. Fol

low with adjustable circular plane and files.

Power: Spindle molder.

C-Rounding a corner

Hand:

Block plane or files.

Power:

Spindle

molder. /

E-Rounding a convex edge

Hand:

Plane

and

files.

Power:

Spindle

molder.

12

B-Convex curve

Hand:

Mallet and chisel followed by ad

justable circular plane and files.

Power:

Spindle molder.

D-Rounding a straight e d g ~

Hand: Plane and files. Po-wer: Spindle

molder.

F-Rounding a concave or irreguiar edge

Hand:

Files.

Power:

Spindle molder.

Shaping


19/224

A-Recess

on

edge (drawer pull)

Hand:

Chisels and gouges.

Power:

Spindle

molder or router.

C-Moldings

Hand:

Rabbeting plane or molding plane.

Power:

Spindle molder.

E-Turning

Hatld:'

Not recommended. A spokeshave

might be used for simple shapes. Power:

Lathe with turning chisels and gouges.

Shaping

SHAPING

B-Recess away from edge (drawer pull)

Hand:

Chisels and gouges.

Power:

Spindle

molder or router.

D-Relief

carving

Hand:

Gouges and special

files.

Power:

Drill press with router bits, or carving

cutters.

F-Irregular shaping

Hand:

Saws

for plan and elevation profiles,

followed by planes,

w


20/224

JOINERY

A-Hole drilling

Hand: Brace and bit, with bit gauge if

depth of a stopped hole

is

to be regulated.

Doweling jig will insure accurate matching

of holes

if

a dowel joint is required. Power:

Drill press.

..'

C-Rabbet

Hand: Rabbeting plane, or combinatio l

plane. Power: Circular saw or jointer. /

E-Groove or slot

Hand:

Groove or combination plane.

Power:

Spindle molder, circular saw, or

router.

14

B-Slanted hole

Hand: Brace and bit guided by prebored

block (jig) clamped to work (face next to

work having been cut to angle required for

inclination of bit). Power: Drill press.

D-Curved rabbet

Hand: Chisels or round nibbeting plane.

Power:

Drill press with router bit o r spindle

molder.

F-Tongue

Hand: Tongue or combination plane.

Power:

Jointer, spindle molder,

or

circular

saw.

Joinery


21/224

A-Housing

Hand:

Tenon saw and chisels.

Power:

Cir

cular saw or router.

E- Open mortise

Hand:

Tenon saw and

files.

Power:

Circular

saw or band saw.

Joinery

JOINERY

B-Stopped

housing

Hand: Chisels. Power: Circular saw or

router.

and chisels.

Power:

Cir-

F-Simple

mortise

Hand:

Mortise chisel and

files.

Power:

Drill

press with mortising attachment or router.

15


22/224

A Box

;oint

or finger

lap

Hand: Tenon saw, chisel, and files. Power:

Circular

saw.

B Edg

e

dovetail

Hand:

Tenon

saw and chisel. Power: Dove.

tail router.

C-Dovetail

housing

Hand: Tenon saw and rabbeting

p1ane.

Power: Dovetail router.

E Lapped dovetail

Hand:

Dovetail saw,

fOllowed

by chisel.

Power: Dovetail router.

16

D Dovetail ;oinl

,

Hand: Dovetail saw and chisel. Power:

Dovetail

router. -

F-Secret

mitered dovetail '

Hand: Dovetail saw and chisels.

POwer:

Dovetail

router.

Joinery _

I

I


23/224

B

Gluing Wood

GLUING WOOD

Either hot or cold glue may be used in wood

construction. After preparing the parts and

making sure that the surfaces are smooth,

spread the glue on both faces to be joined.

The glued pieces should

be

pressed together

for four to eight hours, dependfug on, the

type of glue used.

A-In assembling furniture, direct pressure

can be applied by use of a rope.

B-The adjustable bar clamp is used to

join boards together. Its spread

is

2 ft to 8

ft. .

C-Pressure is usually maintained by the

use of clamps.

D-Here

is a simple method of joining

boards without the use of clamps. Short

pieces of wood are nailed to the ends of two'

rails, and pressure

is

applied by inserting

wedges.

E and

F-

The steel spring is another type

of clamp.

G -The handscrew is /made

of

wood

and used for light work. The parts must be

kept parallel as they are screwed together.

H-The double bar clamp is used to press

together thin sections of wood, as in veneer.

17


24/224

METHODS OF JOINING

BOARDS

Often planks are not large enough for the

work to

be

done. To obtain the desired

width or length it is necessary to glue two

or more planks together with what

is

called

a butt joint.

In order to obtain an invisible joint in ex

posed panels, the grain must be accurately

aligned. There are many ways of joining

these parts, each suitable for a particular

type of work.

A-Because

the planks sawed from the

center of the tree trunk are the weakest, it is

advisable to saw them in two and glue them

together to give them stability and strength.

B -

To obtain best results, the two planks

should

be

joined by matching either ex

ternal rings or interior rings, in order to

equalize shrinking or warping.

C-If the external part

of

the timber s

connected with the internal part, a very bad

joint may result. There will be no proper

seasoning of the two pieces, and after a

period of time there will be a noticeable

demarcation of the whole joint.

D-In

a solid panel it

is

necessary to have

the edge straight to form a perfect joint.

I t

is

of utmost importance to see that the

grain direction is alternated from each

plank to the next in order to equalize the

strain made by the annual rings.

E-I f

the grain is not alternated, the panel

will have a tendency to curl.

18

A

B

I)])))

[J

ill (un ((((I

c

Methods

of

Joining Boards


25/224

-

Butt joint

This

is

one of the simplest and most

frequently used joints.

o

Dowel joint

A common method, often used where

the total area

is

large.

TOhgue

and groove

Flooring

is

usually made this way. It

is

also practical

in

furniture work.

Basic Joints

BASIC JOINTS

Rabbet joint

Similar to the preceding method, but

less used because it

is

more difficult.

Mortise-and-tenon joint

This joint

is

less commonly used than

the one

at

the left.

Feather joint

This

is

one of the most practical ways

of joining parallel planks.

19


26/224

BASIC JOINTS

Loose

tongue and groove

With edges rounded

or

beveled, this

joint

is

often used in wall paneling.

Tongue-and-groove joint used.in

drawing board

The transverse rail

is

used (0 prevent

warping;",

Butt joint

with

wedges

20

/

Shiplap joint

This method is used extensively for

siding on houses.

I t

is easy to make a

watertight joint in t h i ~ way.

Wedge mortise and ten'on

This method

is

used wlren work

is

to

be exposed to the weather.

Butt joint with dovetail

wedge

This

is

a good method to use with a

straight joint, particularly for outside

work.

Basic Joints


27/224

A

A-Zigzag scarf joint

This joint exposes more of the wood

grain to contact with the glue, and is,

therefore, stronger than a right-angle

scarf joint.

B-Dowel scarf joint

The dowels strengthen the joint. Glue

is

used with all of these joints.

C-Fork scarf joint

A good joint

is

obtained because the

surfaces are held naturally in contact,

permitting

firm

glue adhesion.

D-Double dovetail scarf joint

This joint

is

used where the joint is

subject to strain.

E-Tension scarf

joint

This jOint

is

held in place by wooden

wedges, and

is

used more commonly in

house carpentry than in cabinet mak

ing.

Scarf Joints

B

c

SCARF JOINTS

The right angle scarf joint is not often

used in furniture work for practical

reasons: It

is

not strong, glue will not

adhere easily to its surfaces, and the

joint is always visible.

o

21


28/224

RAIL JOINTS

The execution of rail joints is of great

importance, because these are the

basic structural elements in furniture

framework.

Various types of straight rails and

transverse rails may be used to form

various types of frames, and an

ap

propriate joint must be selected for the

type

of

work to be done. You must

consider the thickness of the straight

and transverse rails, the quality of

wood, and the position of the frame

-whether visible or concealed. A

middle rail may be added to the

straight and transverse rails for extra

support. The series of joints illustrated

will

show the various types and explain

the characteristics of each.

Dowel joint

\.

.

Another joint commonly used in repa,ir

work.

' , . ; ~ .

- Open mortise-and-tenon joint

22

This joint is easy to make and is used

for ordinary furniture work.

"

End

half-lap joint

This joint is easily constructed, but un

less reinforced with pins and bolts or

screws it is not very durable. It is used

mostly in repair work.

Bridle joint

.

This

is

a joint often used by the ama

teur craftsman.

Stub mortise

and

tenon with

square

haunch

This is the most widely used joint in

the furniture

field.

It

has all the requi

sites of a perfect joint.

Rail Joints


29/224

Double mortise

and

tenon

with

sloping haunch

This joint can be used where work is

exposed to the elements.

WEDGE

-----,

I

Miter

bridle

joint

Rail Joints

L

I

I

RAIL

JOINTS

Bridle with groove

and

miter on the

inner

edge

in

every type of

Miter

with

stub mortise

and

tenon

23


30/224

RAIL

JOINTS

tf

---

_

_ j

SPLI

NED

Miter joint with spline

This joint

is

easy to make and

is

often

used

by

the amateur craftsman.

Miter

tongue

joint

This

is

very common

in

standard pro

duction.

/

MIDDLE RAIL JOINTS

24

Lap tee joint

This simple joint

is

often used

by

the

amateur; also in repair work.

Miter mortise-and-tenon joint

This

is

a very strong joint, used for

work exposed to humidity.

Miter stub

tongue

joint

Same as miter tongue, except

Jhat

feather joint

is

invisible.

Dowel joint

This

is

a good general purpose joint.

Rail Joints


31/224

Through mortise and tenon

The addition of the wedge makes this

a very strong joint. It is used in work

exposed to weather.

Dovetail halved joint

This method is used to strengt4en the

frame where it will be subjected to un- :

usual strain.

Special dovetail joint

I

This joint is difficult to make and is

used only for precision work.

Middle Rail Joints

MIDDLE

RAIL

JOINTS

Stub mortise and tenon

This is an easily made and widely used

joint.

Oblique dovetail joint

Same as dovetail stub except that

tongue runs through and joint is in

oblique position.

Double dovetail joint

The principle here is the same as in a

single dovetail'joint. Both systems are

used Jor joints subject to great strain.

25


32/224

MIDDLE RAIL

JOINTS

Mortise and tenon with rabbet

Here is one way of joining rails to form

a panel.

Mortise and tenon with mitered

rail and frame

Another mortise and tenon variation.

26

Cross-lap joint (1)

This easily made joint is one of the

most commonly used.

/

Mortise and tenon with groove

Note that mortise and tenon are re

duced in width.

Double mortise and tenon

I

This mortise and tenon has many uses

for cross-rail joints. The rail is mor

tised from both sides:

Cross-lap joint (2)

Here

is

another application of the

cross-lap principle.

Middle Rail Joints


33/224


34/224


35/224


36/224


37/224


38/224


39/224


40/224


41/224


42/224


43/224


44/224


45/224


46/224


47/224


48/224


49/224


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51/224


52/224


53/224


54/224


55/224


56/224


57/224

A-Molded

plywood

Light molded plywood

is

obtained by

gluing layers of wood together in metal

forms. The mold is pressed together

with clamps. This method

is

in wide

use in the production of chair seats and

backs. '

Cylinder and cone construction

B-Cylinder with feather

C-Cone covered with plywood for

c abin,et

work

For upholstery work, cardboard may

be substituted for plywood.

Special Uses of Plywood

SPECIAL

USES

OF PLYWOOD

\

\

\

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~

MOLDED PLYWOOD

SEAT

51


58/224

EDGE

TREATMENT

In order to conceal the laminates in ply

wood or a blockboard panel, the edges

must be covered with hardwood. The

methods used are:

A

~

8

-

C

-

0

-

E

-

F

-

G

52

I

A-Painting the edge to match the wood:

This is the simplest and cheapest method.

B -Veneer banding

This material

is

now available in rolls.

C-Solid

edge

D-Tongued, frame and grooved edge

E-Tongued edge and grooved frame

F-Edge attached with feather

G-Mitered

edge used in

fine

work

H-Application

of hardwood edge (C-G)

(solid edge shown)

For

fine

work the corner will be formed

with a miter joint.

I-Roll

veneer is particularly suitable for

curved edges.

J

Edge Treatment


59/224

A

B

c

o

\

\

____

1.

FABRI C

\

\

- - - - - - ~

COTTON

Fastening

Fabric to Board

FASTENING FABRIC TO BOARD

For simple upholstery, there are several

techniques for attaching the fabric to a

panel. Any of the methods shown will

give excellent results.

A-Fabric

tacked to the back

B - A

strip of wood fitted into the

back

C-Solid board attached to edge

D-Fabric

stretched over a frame:

This forms an independent panel front.

~

I

I

L

_ _ _ _

_ _ _ _

SOLID EDGES

53


60/224

METAL

BORDERS

A through D-Metal borders. and

methods of fastening them to wood

edges

PLASTIC BORDERS

54

To cover wood edges one can use either

plastic material similar to that used on

surfaces, and applied

by

the same

method (E), or standard plastic bor-

ders (F). /

METAL BORDER

~ - - - - - - - - - - -

A'_

B . , .

PLASTIC

BORDERS

r ~ - - - - - - - - - -

,f

E

_

Metal

Borders


61/224

APPLICATION OF FABRIC TO DOORS

fA

BRIC

------,

I

I

I

I

B

C and D -Two methods of applying a

fabric panel to a frame

Application

of Fabric

to

Doors

A-Application

of fabric to a sliding

door

B-Fabric held in place on a door by

molding

lole

~

&

55


62/224

DOOR

STOPS FOR

SINGLE DOORS

The basic use of single or double door

stops

is

to seal a furniture compart

ment and so protect its contents from

dust and other injury. Door stops also

help to mask the gaps that appear when

the wood shrinks. Stops are seldom

used

in

~ a s s production; to save time

a straight board

is

used.

WOOD

OR METAL

ST OP

-----------------,

I

I

.......

A

B

""

- . - . ' . (

" .

A-Straight board door with wood or

metal stops: This

is

the normal method

used in standard production.

B-Straight stop board: A special so

lution, not commonly used.

C-Rabbet

stop on side

D-Rabbet

stop on door: A very good

method

E-Miter

stop, used

in fine

work

56

RABBET STOP

Door

Stops


63/224

Door

Stops

WOOD OR

METAL

STOP

------------------,

I

I

I

DOOR

STOPS

FOR DOUBLE DOORS

A

A-Straight board with wood or metal

stop as used in mass production

B-Rabbet

stops: The score in the

front hides movement or shrinking of

doors.

C-Stop with tongue and groove: This

method allows simultaneous opening

of the doors.

D-Variation

of tongue-and-groove

stop

E-Isometric

drawing of door, show

ing position of rabbet stop: The score

indicated

in

(B) has been omitted.

57


64/224

DOOR HINGES

There are several methods of attaching

standard doors

to

furniture; they vary with

the type of hinge to be used. Hinges are usu

ally fastened with screws.

The common types of hinges are illustrated

here and'on the following pages.

Butt

hinges

are shown below.

,

.:

,: '

....

Butt i n g e ~ ' a r ~ .

iised in mass proquction.

< >

oJ'

I

Recess doors with

butt

hinges: Note

that

side panel

acts as

door

stop.

58

Cabinet doors with butt hinges

BUTT

HINGES

@@

(Q)

@

@ @

@

@

o

O

@ @

@

@

@

@

o

Door

Hinges


65/224

External doors with butt hinges: Doors using this

type of hinge open all the way.

Rabbet doors with butt hinges

Rabbet doors with offset hinges

Miter doors with butt hinges, used for special work

Door Hinges

DOOR HINGES

Q

=

BUTT

H I N G E

LOOSE PIN HINGE

R

IANO 0

CONTINUOU

H I N G

5

E

---v

cg

@

HINGE

v

-

@

l -

I-

@

l -

59


66/224

DOOR HINGES

-

J

OFFSET HINGE

sass.

HINGES

DOUBLE ACTION

HINGE

0

....

FLUSH HINGE

COUNTER

H I N G E

60

@

0

@

External door application with offset hinge

Door application with Soss invisible hinges used in

fine furniture

f

'"

....

"

Door attached with folding-screen hinges: The dou

ble action permits -complete rotation of the door.

Hinges work in pairs to prevent gapping.

Flush and counter hinges, commonly used for exten

sion table tops,

Door Hinges


67/224

A

OPEN

TOP

CLOSED

B

TOP

OPEN

Table Hinges

CLOSED

TABLE

HINGES

A-Standard

table hinges made to fas

ten extension table tops having molded

edges

B-Another type of extension table:

The straight edges are fastened with

extension hinge. Open, the extension

part

is

flush to the surface; closed, it

is

flush to the edge.

TABLE HINGE

61


68/224

SPECIAL HINGES

I

1

..... ,/

....... _ - , . ,

62

I

\

\

,

,

' ~

-_

1

Cabinet with three doors: Such cabinets present spe

cial problems. Here

is

one solution, shown with butt

hinges.

Piano hinges used with two sets of doors: This is a

practical method of hiding the central divider when

two sets of doors appear on the front.

The

hinge may

be

cut into segments when two doors are hinged from

same post. See page 59.

Special Hinges


69/224

A

8

.

A and

B-Doors

using internal pivots at top and bot-

tom. Note that (B) uses a stop pivot.

C-Door

installation with angle pivot hinge., With

this

ty,pe

of pivot the door can be opened all the way.

o

D-Another

angle pivot hinge, with a pivot of differ

entshape

Pivot Hinges

PIVOT HINGES

@

PIVOT

HI N

GE

PI VOT

HINGE

WITH STOP

63


70/224

PiVOT

HINGES

_-

64

1 II

~

I \

I ,

/ -

"-

\

\

A

,

.. ; , ~ .

"

A-This three-door problem has been solved by using an

external pivot hinge (above left) on the two outside doors,

and an internal one (above right) on the door that hides

the dividing panel.

B-Use

of pivot hinges on a four-door cabinet also hides

the center divider.

t'

".

Pivot Iiinges


71/224

SUPPORT

Drop

Doors

DROP DOORS

A drop door may use almost any type

of hinge along its bottom edge.

If

the

open door is to serve as a desk

or

sup

port, it

is

essential to have the door

held rigidly in position. This can be

done by using metal supports along the

outer edge.

A and B-Two types of supports for

drop doors, both attached with butt

hinges

C- A simple method of using a butt

hinge, without a special support.

The

door overhang acts as its own stop.

c

.....

..... _ - - Y

65


72/224

DROP DOORS

66

A - A

combination hinge and support

is

used with this drop door. This

is

a

satisfactory method so long as the door

is small.

OMBINATION HINGE

AND

SUPPORT

B-Offset

hinges are used in this

scheme.

C and

D-

These .two similar drop door

1

stops are intended for use in fine furni

ture construction. Both employ pivot

hinges hung sidewise from the sides of

the cabinet.

Drop

Doors


73/224

_____ ~ I J B B . Q E

DROP

DOORS

A-This

type of door stop

is

simpler to con

struct than the preceding two, but the differ

ence

in

level between the door and the in

terior would be a disadvantage for some

uses.

B-Pivot

door, suitable for dressing tables

B

FOLDING

DOORS

Folding doors leave free the space

needed to open conventional doors.

They are simple to make and to install,

but the work must be done very ac

curately.

I

I

I

I

I

,

I

I

I "

I I I

I I I I I

L_..J__..J.__ -' - _

_j

Drop Doors

HINGE

WITH

GUIDE PIN

"" ' ------------

-

.....

.....

67


74/224

SPECIAL

DOORS

/

68

----,

----1

Combination drop and sliding door

. This design utilizes a pivot and a routed track.

Tambour door

VERTICAL

SECTION

Another space-saving door. This type, once very

popular

for

office furniture, is not difficult to build.

Special Doors


75/224

I

-_________

CLEAT TRACK

c

'---------

WOODEN

STRIPS

E

Sliding Doors

8

I

_________

GROOVE

TRACK

CLEARANCE

fO

R

REMOVAL Of DOORS

METAL OR

PLASTIC

SLIDING DOORS

Sliding doors also save room space, but

do not allow so large an opening as do

folding or tambour doors. Several

methods of installing sliding doors are

shown. Note that for both installation

and removal of sliding doors space for

clearance must be allowed in the top

guide.

A and B-Sliding door with cleat track

and groove track

C-Easy-to-make guides, using

wooden strips

D and E-Metal and plastic guides

and their application

F-Plate glass or thin plywood doors

sliding

in

groove tracks

F

\

\.-

- - - - ------

CLEARANCE fOR

REMOVAL Of DOORS

...__.__-

69


76/224

SLIDING DOORS

I

l 7

r=---===--r - - - - - - ,

I

I

I

I

,

I

I l r,

I

I \

..

v ,

L

______ .J

A A

fRONT

VIEW

A-Doors

will

move more easily if

wheels are used. These _ wo methods

will give very satisfactory results.

PLATE GLASS

~ - - - - - - - - - -

C

BALL TRACK

r - - - - - - - - -

I

I

B, C, D-Other methods of sliding:

Irregular groove to minimize friction,

ball track, and plastic rollers all make

for easy sliding of the doors.

70

SID

E

o

SI DE. SE.CTlON

PLASTIC OR

ME. T

AL

ROLLERS

r-----------

'/

/M ETAL ROD

/

r

/ I

/ I

/ I

I

I

I

I

I

,..--,

I ' '\

I \

1+,

I

fRONT VIEVi

Sliding Doors


77/224

P R I C T I O ~

AT C H

MAGNET CATCH

Door Catches

DOOR CATCHES

Doors may be fastened with catches,

bolts,

or

locks. Locks, of course, re

quire keys. Several types of catches are

shown on this page. Bolts and locks are

illustrated

on

the pages that follow.

BULLET

CATCH

RUBBER ROLLER CATCH

DOOR

71


78/224

DOOR

BOLTS

AND LOCKS

DOOR KNOB

A - A door knob installed in position

Band C-Application

of flush and neck bolts to

door back, for use with double doors

/

=

=

MORTISE LOCK

72

~

B

o

c

D-

The mortise lock

is

a common

type found in fUfl1iture work. I t can be

used with single or double dqors and

with drawers.

E

and

F-Mortise

end side lock that

may be used

in

either doors or drawers.

The keyhole should always be vertical.

Door Bolts and

Locks


79/224


80/224

DOOR LOCKS

A-This

bar lock method closes both doors

at the same time.

Band

C-Plate glass locking devices which

are particularly useful:

(B)

is

secured with

screws; (C)

is

applied to the base of the

plate glass.

7----- . . i

A

74

PLATE

GLASS

Gl

Door

Locks


81/224

I

I

I

I /

If.

______ _

MtTAL KNOBS

c

I

/

\

I

I

\

_ J . L J . : . I 1 L ~ ' _ \

L _____ _

METAL PULL

Pulls

L __

NUT

8

I

I

I

L __ ___ _

w

000

PULL

o

PULLS

A through D-Many types of pulls or

knobs made of wood or metal may be

purchased and applied to furniture.

Pulls may

be

used decoratively, but it

is usually best to build them into the

actual furniture as shown in (E).

E-Drawer or door pulls built into the

furniture

P U LL

------- ,

I

r 7 I ' 1 < : ~ ~ r - - - I

I

I

I

I

I

7S


82/224

PULLS

A and B-Two examples of pulls cut

into the bottom of a drawer

C and

D-Pulls

built into cabinet

doors

E-Sliding door pulls are cut into the

wood; a similar method is used for

plate glass sliding doors.

C

"

"

:

'

: ,

\:

76

A

,,,-

"

f

.

"

"

.

c

I

I

_____

I

METAL I

PULLS

I

I

~ - - .

- - - - - - : 1

-

' I

0

I

\

\

"

,

:E

_ 1 ' ~

Pulls


83/224

A

Adjustable Shelves

B

ADJUSTABLE SHELVES

Adjustable shelves have several ad

vantages, but the chief of these is that

the spacing between them may be

varied to suit the objects to be dis

played. These shelves are often used

for bookshelves, kitchen cabinets, and

china cupboards. Here are several

types.

Various examples of adjustable

shelves: Type

(D) is

one of the best

arrangements.

SHELVES

- - - - - \ - - . . .

\ -...

-y-- ,

,-or--

\

./

./

I

//

./

./

./

IL ________ _

L _

SHELf BRACKETS

~

ADJUSTABLE

~

SHELf" PINS

c

SECTION

FRONT

VIEW

77


84/224

ADJUSTABLE SHELVES

AOJ\)S'TABLE.

SHELF'SUPPORT

AND

STANDARDS

,-

/

J ~ . / ":-

Supporting the shelves w i t ~ ~ b r a c k e t s

offers a simple method

9;'

?uilding

bookcases and similar d i s R l a y . ~ s p a c e s .

Several styles of brackets are available,

commercially. " .

"

'; .

\ ' .

..... . . . .

'.

....

78

t :?

@

@

@

BRACKET KEYHOLE

::J

V

BRACKET

KNife:

Adjustable

Shelves


85/224

A

SECTION

DRAWERS

A drawer is one of the most useful and

important parts

of

furniture construc

tion,

and

smooth operation

of

the

drawer depends upon the perfect de

sign and assembly of the furniture

piece.

Drawers may be hidden by doors

or

they may be exposed. Many solutions

are possible

with

either design.

The

drawings in this section give a clear

idea of their construction

and

applica

tion.

A-Simplified

drawer construction

Here

is

a drawer adequate for normal

use which

can

be easily made by hand.

It

is designed in the form of a box

without cabinet joints,

and

is

assem

bled with nails.

The

front

is

attached

with screws driven from the inside,

so

that

the visible portion

is

unbroken

' ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ t d

resembles a standard drawer. A

~ ~ c : , C ~ ~ ( &.no.

. pull

can

be attached in ex-

~

~ r'....

- ; a e ~ f y \ same way as for the more

/ f

IJ >- f O r ? p l f c a ~ d type.

, uC::

4

c "( : CC

(j

:: :

B_;Box.fbi t often used by craftsmen

. , -cr : : )Q:.I

'oj \

c;;:

c: .' S I D E ) ~ E i TlON

\.. :z:

.

.:..

~

\.... C'

~ . r - ' - # - - - - - l

~ t ~ ; ~ / ~ ' 7.,

~ . ~ ~

... -

I - o . - . ~ ........ . . . . . . . ~ ~ \

~ ~ " " " " ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' . > A . I \ I

JO\NlNG-l"Ht 1wo R A W E R - f - R O ~ I

PIECES WITH fOUR

seRE WS

PLAN VIEW

PLAN VIEW v ~

r

II

.

I I

I

I

Drawers

79


86/224

DRAWERS

A-Drawer

constructed with dovetail

A

joint

B-For

fine drawer construction the

lapped dovetail joint is often used.

PLAN VIEW

80

8

SIDE

SECTION

_41.

PLAN VIEW

SIDE VIEW

I I

, . l _ l ___

1 -

___

J

1.

r I I

Drawers


87/224

A

SIDE SECTION

B

SIDE SECTION

Drawers

c

DRAWERS

A and B-Some type of dust panel

is

usually installed between drawers.

The one shown in (A)

is

visible from

the front of the chest; in (B) the panel

is

concealed by the overlapping

drawer front.

C-Disappearing

drawer front

- - - -

--.,

I

~ " ' N - i r - - - - - - - _.J

I

/

/

J

/

/

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ; ; r "

./

SID E

SECTION

81


88/224

SPECIAL DRAWERS

Drop-top mirror used inside a drawer

m

HANNEL

I R O N

HOUSING

- -7

/

/

Drawer with vertical removable divi

sion.strips: This method uses a housing

or a channel iron in the side of the

drawer.

Drawer with oblique 'removable divi

sion strips: Either housing or channel

iron may be used.

82

I

MIRROR

I

\

I

1

7

\ I

\

\ /

\ I

~ ~ _ O _ ' { _ ~ ~ : : . ~ 1 '

----------,.._

,

I

......

I '

I '-,

I "

I ~

Special

Drawers


89/224


90/224

SPECIAL

DRAWERS

A-Interior

drawer for wardrobe or

cabinet

B-Shirt

drawer

C-Drawer

with pull, for use as tray

D-Drawer

with plate glass front

PLASTIC DRAWERS

4114

These drawers can be purchased in '

standard sizes, with various types of

guides. Pulls and knobs can be ap

plied to them as easily as to wooden

types. These plastic drawers can well

be substituted for wooden ones in

many pieces of furniture. In some

designs, however, the dimensions of

the framework may have to be ad

justed to fit the size of ready-made

drawer avaihible.

84

..

'-,

..

-....-

PULL

- - - - - ,

I

I

I

I

Special Drawers


91/224

Drawer with screwed cleat

Drawer with bottom rail

,

>

Drawer with rail on side: A mortise

may'

be

cut in the side of the drawer

to lUow the drawer to slide between

two cleats attached to the side of the

chest.

Drawer

Slides

DRAWER SLIDES

85


92/224

DRAWER

SLIDES

Rollers are used with heavy drawers.

's

.. .

' ' 't

;.

Drawer with center guide: A " ' g ~ i ~ e

~ a c i l i t a t e s the travel of the draWer._.

~ n d some form of guide should be in

cluded if possible.

rIeavy drawer with special ball bear

ing glides

I

._ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __

PLASTI C

OR

METAL ROLLERS

Drawer Slides


93/224

,

\

\

\

STOP

FASTENED

~ ~ D ~ . ~ . ~

J

-----------,

I

I

/

/

I

I

I

/

Drawer Slides

I

_j

".

I

DRAWER SLIDES

Ball bearings

in

bottom of drawer:

This

is

still another way to assure an

easily-gliding drawer.

DRAWER STOPS

/ '

I

I

{l

::.-

87


94/224

JOINING WOOD AND GLASS

Attaching glass, plate glass, or a mir

ror to wood

is

one of the most delicate

operations in furniture construction.

The possibility of breaking the glass

during the working process makes it

imperative that great care be taken.

Plate glass or a mirror may be at

tached to the wood in a horizontal,

vertical, or oblique position. It may

also be welded to the wood with glue

or cement.

A through

C-Application

of the

plate glass shelf:

(A)

shows the in

stallation of glass with a rough edge;

(B) and (C) show the method used

with finished glass.

D-Installing

glass

in

a picture frame

E-Rabbet frame, showing plate

glass held

in

place with putty

F-Plate glass in a groove

88

o

- - - - - - '

PUTTY

I

/

PLATE

GLASS

------------7

o

I

I

Joining

Wood and Glass


95/224

D

E

A

_

MLR_RQJ

_P_A"'p_E_B

. - -T/UI


96/224

JOINING

METAL

AND WOOD

In the cQnstructiQn

Qf

furniture it

is

Qften necessary

to. jQin

WQQd and

metal parts. While it

is

custQmary

to.

jQin

these materials with bQlts

Qr

screws, special adhesives may be used

instead. By means

Qf

glue, metal

sheets

can

be welded

to.

cellular

CQres

to.

fQrm

large waterproQf panels.

(])

90

SHEET

METAL

r-----

'V.. ":

.

. .

B

A-Three

different methQds

Qf

jQining

metal sheets to.

WQQd

panels: Glue

may

also. be

used.

c

METAL

~ _ o _ . 9 _ . Q __

Band

C - ( B )

shQWS

a

WQQd

and metal

pane l in a rabbet frame with mQlding.

(C)

is a metal sheet in a groQved frame.

I

JQining Metal

and WQQd


97/224

A and

B-

Two different ways of at

taching decorative metal strips to

wood surfaces: With Method

(A)

the

metal is easily applied, but has a tend

ency to pull out in time. Method (B)

is preferable.

C-Wooden

arm rest fastened to

tubular metal chair arm with screws

D-Metal wire or tube fastened in

wood frame by means of holes previ

ously made in the wood

,

Joining

Metal

and Wood

JOINING

METAL

AND WOOD

I

.. :I

_____

.l

METAL

METAL

PIPE

, - - - - - -

, ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

,

'\.

,

,

,

,

"

"

91


98/224

JOINING

MARBLE

AND WOOD

A

B

I

I

I

I

I

I

MARBLE

_________ .1

MARBLE

-------7

/

/

/

/

C

\'L.Q_Q.g___

J f ' : : - ' _ ~ ~

-

..

---""

92

/

c

4

Marble and wood may be joined in a

number of ways. Basically, the meth

ods are the same as those used with

glass. Several common methods are

shown on this page. Screws and bolts

may also be used.

A and

B -

Two simple methods of

using marble tops: The example be

low uses

a stub tenon with a mortise

in the marble.

C - A short prong incased in the

marble will prevent any sliding of the

top.

D - A rubber cup may be sufficient to

prevent the top from sliding.

MARBLE

------,

\

\

..

~ ~

~ ' : ~ ' _ / . 1 : _

METAL PIPE

v

-

- ...

Ii

-

o

Joining Marble and Wood


99/224

A

RUB BER

-------..,

I

\

\

\

)..

I

9,

I

I

/

,.

I

Joining Rubber and Wood

JOINING RUBBER AND

WOOD

Rubber is a good material to use in

protecting furniture. Here are some

ways it may be used.

A-Flat

sheet of rubber attached with

adhesive

B-Grooved

rubber, also attached

with adhesive

C - A

rubber dome can be attached

to the undersides of stacked tables.

D - A rubber dome can also be used

to cushion the swing of a door.

c

RUBBER

93


100/224

COMMON METAL

JOINTS

Here are several common metal joints.

Metal may be used for complete fur

niture pieces or for parts of furniture.

A-Union

of pipe and metal strip

se

cured with a locking pin

D -

Two metal strips joined by cross

lap joint

94

B

I

~ ~ = - - - - -

J .....

I

I

Band C-Sliding metal joints: Note that

either piece may be fixed in place with

screws.

E-Two metal strips fastened with

rivets

Common Metal Joints


101/224

COLLAR

, - - - -

A-Removable pipe joints held in place

with screws

WELDED

WEL DE D

--------,

\

C-Welded

pipe and strip joints

Common Metal Joints

COMMON

METAL JOINTS

B-Metal

strip joint

held in place

with bolts

PIPE

A

D-Pipe

joints using screwed ends

95


102/224

JOINING

PLATE

GLASS TO METAL

Method of applying plate glass to

metal frame

Glass box with wood base using metal

corners

Various ways of attaching metal

frames to glass

CORNER

BRACKETS

FOR

PLATE GLASS

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~

'"

Joining

Plate Glass

and Metal


103/224

Joining

Rubber

to Metal

JOINING RUBBER

TO METAL

A

BACK SECTION

RUBBER

- - - - - . . : : . : . ~ ..\

........... ' \

~ - ~ - ~ - - - - - - ~ \ ~ - - - - - - ~

SIDE

SEAT

VIEW

A-Rubber

supports can be applied between

metal frame and seat, and between frame and

back, to make the chair more comfortable.

"'----

RUBBER

C-Rubber

bumpers can be screwed to the

undersides of tables to protect the tops.

D - A

protective rubber pad under a metal tray

97


104/224

BONDING SURFACING MATERIAL TO PLYWOOD

VERTICAL

SECTION

A and

B-Surfacing

materials can be ap

plied to only one side when the frame is

totally enclosed.

The sketches show the steps to be followed

in attaching surface material to plywood.

I f the panel to be laminated

is

securely

fastened to the frame of the cabinet, only

the outer surface need

be

covered, but if

the panel

is

simply to rest on the frame, a

balance sheet must be applied to the under

surface to prevent warpage.

1.

Smooth the plywood with sandpaper.

2.

Cut the surfacing material carefully to

size with a saw. For a clean cut use clamps

and keep the saw as nearly parallel to the

surface as possible.

3. Place the surfacing material on the ply

wood to check the

fit;

shave off any excess.

4.

A plastic adhesive and pressure give

the best contact bonding. Manufacturer's

instructions should be observed.

5. Roll the surface to insure a tight bond.

An ordinary rolling pin may

be

used.

6. When the surfacing is firmly bonded to

the plywood, edges may be beveled with a

file and metal molding applied, or strips of

the surfacing material may be applied to

the edges of the plywood.

98

8

I

I

I

_ _ _ _ _ :1

SUR fAe

I NG

MATERIAL

Bonding

Surfacing

Material


105/224

BONDING SURFACING MATERIAL TO

CURVED

SURFACES

BACKING SH EET

TO

PREVENT WARPAGE

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ,

~

- - - - - - - - - ~

PLASTIC

SUR f'

ACE

ADHESIVE

NAIL

- - - ~ --7

Bonding Surfacing Material

A - A plastic sheet can also

be

ap

plied over a curved surface. Follow

the directions given on page 98 and

keep the plastic sheet bent until the

glue has dried. A wood form should

be used.

B,

C, and

D-Three

methods of fas

tening plastic parts to wood

MOLDED PLASTIC

Within their own domain, plastics pos

sess at least as broad a range of prop

erties as metals, and are capable of at

least as great a diversity of composi

tions. In general, they have the advan

tage that they can be molded

in

forms.

It

is

only comparatively recently that

plastics have come into common

use

in the furniture field. Continuous re

search

is

being conducted

in

further

development of their many uses.

We do know enough about the charac

teristics of plastics today

so

that they

may be used with the assurance that

they will withstand wear. However, it

is

best to check the specific character

istics of each plastic before using it.

E-Heat-treated plastic can be used

to form a curve.

F - A

molded plastic chair: With

molded plastic, any desired form can

be

obtained.

99


106/224

UPHOLSTERY

WORK

Upholstering is an art in itself. While

most other operations in furniture

construction are done by machine,

up

holstery work

is

still done by hand.

Expert workmen have usually served

a long apprenticeship before acquir

ing the skill necessary for upholstering

a chair or divan. There are, however,

several ways that upholstery work can

be

done by apprentices and amateurs;

for example,

by

substituting foam

rubber for the materials used in nor

mal work.

I shall not go into detail about uphol

stering, but I have illustrated several

types of frames, materials and meth

ods of application. I have tried to sim

plify the presentation to enable even

the beginner to understand each

method.

The frame,

in

either wood or metal, is

the skeleton of the furniture piece.

Upon. its construction depend both

the comfort and the strength of the

chair.

A and B -Two different types of

bench frames

D-Frame

for ~ e b b i n g seat

C-Round frame covered with card

board: The. }lpholstering material is

added later:

100

' >ee detail Cpage 41

~

\1\ 0

11\

\

1 \

\ I \

\ \

A

Upholstery Work


107/224

WELDED

- -

- - - \

' \

I \

I \

\

\

Metal

frame

stool

for

cord or

canvas

seat

See page 95 for details of joints.

RUBBER

, . ----------

,

\

\ I

L

____ _

WE L

D

EO

. I

One example

of

a metal frame chair

The rubber supports between the seat

and back give elasticity to the seat.

Types

of Frames

TYPES OF

FRAMES

see detdil page 25

r------------

1\

I ,

I

I

I

I

Common type of wooden chair frame that will

take an upholstered seat

101


108/224

TYPES

OF FRAMES

A-Wood frame for armchair with

seat and back upholstered.

B-Frame for an upholstered office

armchair. A swivel base may be sub

stituted if desired.

I

I

1

\ \ \ 1

\ \ , I

'\1

_____________

l

102

.....

.

..

--

see

detail A page 41

8

31"

see

det'ail page 24

T----------

I

I

B

-+----- 2 4 - - - - _ + _

Types

of

Frames


109/224

A

\

\

\

,

"

,

.

,

,

~

~ e e detaIl p-a-g-.-22

, \

' - - - - - - - - - - - - -

see dt"tail A pa g

" 41

Chair

and Sofa Frames

CHAIR

AND

SOFA FRAMES

A-A modern armchair that will have

both seat and back upholstered

B-Frame

for modern type of arm

less sofa, using an upholstered finish

for back and seat

..

\

\

\

\

\ SACk f"ABRfC

- -;+-----------

\

I

\

\

\

\

SEAT fABRIC B

~ - - - - - - - - - -

__ ' L - - - - - - - - - - - ~

r

1 6 ~

+ - - - - - - 2 6 ~ - - - - - - + _

....

.....

.....

' - - - - - - - -

CONCAVE

R A I L

103


110/224

ARMCHAIR FRAME

Frame for modern armchair, with

loose seat construction. Increasing the

width will convert the same design to

a sofa.

104

30"

\

\

\

\

\

t

8

11

\,.....

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

"

" 15

II

II

If:

=-

-=---- -= -=---=--=

-=--=-=- =

= = "=

7"

4-

Armchair

Frame


111/224

WEBBING

STRETCHER

~ UPHOLSTERY MALLET

E.XTENSION COT SPRING

NO-SAq,A

SPRIN G

ZIGGER

WI

RE

-

~

COIL SPRINGS

UpholstelY

Tools

UPHOLSTERY TOOLS

The tools most commonly used in up

holstery are shown here.

CURVED

STEE.L NEEDLE

RIPPER AND TACK PULLER

UPHOLSTERY MATERIALS

Here are several types of springs used

in upholstery work.

105


112/224

UPHOLSTERY MATERIALS

06

J U T

E

WEBBING

HORSE

HAIR

018

hfiiiiiiS)

COTTON SEWING TWINE

@5 L,

CiJ

LINEN

SEWING TWINE

fA

BRIC

. LEATHER

. ~ .

".

PADDING

Upholstery Materi als


113/224

,,

,,

--------- : : . .

FLAT

STOCK

Upholstery

Materials

L

I

I

UPHOLSTERY

MATERIALS

A-Rubberized

hair

is

a light and

elastic material of relative low cost

which

is

used

in

mass production. It

can be easily applied with staples or

tacks, and is available in the same

sizes as foam rubber.

B and C - F o a ~ rubber

is

made from

liquid latex, which forms a cream-like

foam after being put through air pres

sure. It is then poured into molds of

desired size. In upholstery work it

gives better results than stuffing, and

is

quicker and easier to use. Foam

rubber is made in different grades of

firmness, and the right grade should

be selected for the job to be done.

Solid-slab utility stock (B) comes in

many thicknesses from in. to 1 in.

Cored utility stock (C)

is

molded

with cylindrical openings in the core.

Its thickness varies from

%

in. to

4Y2

in.

D-Full

molded cushions can be pur

chased in a variety of sizes and

shapes.

E-Cut

foam rubber with either scis

sors or band saw. Cutting

is

easier if

the scissors are dipped into warm

water.

F-Small pieces glued together with

rubber adhesive to form one large

piece

G-Flat

stock glued to a slab

H-Full

cushion made from cored

stock

107


114/224

FOAM RUBBER

,

\

L ___ _

RUBBER

T A C KIN G

TAP E

-------------71

",

/ /

/ ,

/ I

/' I

I

I

A-Method

of applying tacking tape or ad

pesive-backed tape around the edges of a

'oam rubber slab, using cement.

B

c

B and

C-

Two different

uses

of tacking

~ a p e :

The rubber cushion is cut 'l.I in. larger

than the piece it covers.

~ 0 8

I

E

D and

E- In

making contoured edges the

foam rubber should be cut

%

in. larger than

the piece being upholstered.

F

and

G-Another

way of making a curved

edge

Foam Rubber


115/224

A and B-Simple leather seats like these

are easily installed, as the details show.

c

..Q_It.Q_/- - - - . ,

I

I

I

I

/

I ,

/

I

I

C and D-Seats made with cord are expen

sive because they take time to make.

Seats

SEATS

The seat design is very important in uphol

stery work, for upon its construction de

pends the usefulness of the chair

or

divan.

Each seat must be made in accordance with

the type of frame to which it is attached.

It

may be movable or fixed, light or heavy. A

wide variety of materials may be used.

109


116/224

~ E A T S


117/224

II

Y

iee

de tdil

1

2l

+=+-

"

0

0

1"

de tail 1

42" -

I D l l D l ? D ~ 1

'ART

NO. FUNCTION

A

top

B

rail

C

2

rail

D

4

leg

E

1

bottom

'F

2

side

G 1

drawer

front

H 2

drawer side

J

1

drawer

bottom

K

1

drawer

back

tt

1'1

+-15-+

DIMENSIONS IN INCHES

thickness X width X length

3,4

15

42

3,4

4

23

*,

4 1

2Y:z 30

%

12

13

Y2

4 12

3,4

3%

13

% 3Y:z

11%

%

llY:z 12Y:z

%

3 12%

Side Table


147/224

14 EXTENSION DINING

TABLE

DIMENSIONS IN

INCHES

PART NO.

FUNCTION

thickness X

width

X

length

A

top

3,4

30

42

B

2

extension top

%

14

30

C

4

leg 2

2

28

'

,4

D

2

side rail

3 ~

3 7 ~

E, E'

2

end rail

3V2

25Y2

F 3

rail

%

3

26V2

G 6

guide

~

~

24

H

4

extension

support

114 114

30

c

bottom

of 0

Extension Dining Table

141


148/224

de

ta i

I

c

- - - - - -42

------,.----+--- 14"

)

.

.

I

I

.

:

-

,.

.

- - - - - ~

I

I I

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

Date post:	22-Feb-2018
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How to Build Modern Furniture

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