How to Build _ The Leopard Family in 1-35

HOW TOBUILD...BUILD... THE

LEOPARDFAMILY IN 1:35

From the publishers of Tamiya Model Magazine International, Model Military International, Model Airplane Internationaland Military Illustrated Modeller

SPENCER POLLARD

FEATURING THE WORK OF Spencer Pollard, Marcel Jussen,

Brett Green and John Murphy

INCLUDES SEVEN COMPLETE BUILDS PLUS: Full-sized walk-rounds In-service references Step by step tutorials: construction,

painting and weathering How to detail your model:

aftermarket and from scratch Complete list of all available 1:35

kits, conversions and accessories

INCLUDES SEVEN COMPLETE BUILDS PLUS: Full-sized walk-rounds Full-sized walk-rounds In-service references Step by step tutorials: construction,

painting and weathering How to detail your model:

aftermarket and from scratch Complete list of all available 1:35

kits, conversions and accessories

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2 How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35

FORWARD CONTENTS

Anyone that follows the modelling world will notice how often a particular subject becomes flavour of the month, and how, once that happens, a large number of kits

from a variety of different manufacturers, will appear at the same time.

The Leopard is a great example of how this can result in lots of new kits being released, seemingly, out of the blue.

Though there have always been kits of this vehicle from the likes of Tamiya, Italeri and Revell, many of these are based on older moulds and though the second-generation Leopard 2 family sought favour thanks to Tamiyas attentions and latterly, those of HobbyBoss, the earlier Leopard 1 in its many incarnations has been rather less popular.

Enter MENG and their 1A4. Released in a flurry of excitement, this new kit was hoped to be the last word on the subject, so when it appeared with odd accuracy issues many still felt that the opportunity had been missed and no more first-generation kits would appear. Not so. Takom then released a MEXAS and are due to look at other versions including the 1A5/C2. MENG have also taken another look at their more problematic issues in their kit and have reworked them - much to the delight of the enthusiastic modeller and so we may finally have a kit to match the hopes and expectations of the market.

Given that we can now build virtually any member of this family, it seemed like a good time to bring together some cool features to show you the modeller, how to build up a small collection using readily available kits and accessories. In so doing, we felt that each of the main versions could be tackled and illustrate such things as straight from the box assembly, painting and weathering, detailing, aftermarket products, conversions and scratchbuilding. Bringing all of these areas together would then allow you to dig a little deeper into the subject and find your own projects, using our ideas as a guide to their completion. Do that and we are sure that you will end up with a fine collection of one of the best-looking vehicles ever seen on the battlefield.

It is with great pleasure then, that Id like to introduce you to this new How To Build guide dedicated to building the Leopard family in 1:35. Alongside the models that Ive built for the book, I am delighted to be able to bring together three features from three of my favourite modellers: Marcel Jussen, Brett Green and John Murphy. Each of them has created a wonderful modelling feature for you to enjoy, based around three distinctly different subjects. Id like to thank them all for their efforts and state publically, that this book would have been nowhere near as good as I believe it is, without their help. Thanks guys!

This then, is How To Build The Leopard Family In 1:35. We hope you enjoy reading it, every bit as much as we enjoyed putting it together!

Spencer Pollard, July 2014

How to build... THE LEOPARD FAMILY IN 1:35

Spencer was born in Haverfordwest, South Wales in 1967. Having been born into a military family (both his mother and father served in the Royal Navy) it was not surprising to see him develop an abiding interest in the military and thanks to that Fleet Air Arm connection, aircraft, both full-size and in miniature. Having spent many years building models as a hobby, Spencer was able to turn a part-time passion into a full-time career, as he swapped a role in the Civil Service for one in the Editors chair, taking over the reigns of Military In Scale magazine in 1997. Sixteen years on, Spencer changed direction once more as he joined the ADH team to become their in-house model-maker, working on a wide range of models both military and civilian. He spends downtime playing drums in a rock-covers band, living in Shropshire with his wife Liz.

Spencer Pollard

The Leopard is a great example of how this can result in lots of new kits being released, seemingly,

Though there have always been kits of this vehicle from the likes of Tamiya, Italeri and Revell, many of these are based on older moulds and though the second-generation Leopard 2 family sought favour

of HobbyBoss, the earlier Leopard 1 in its many

Enter MENG and their 1A4. Released in a flurry of excitement, this new kit was hoped to be the last word on the subject, so when it appeared with odd accuracy issues many still felt that the opportunity had been missed and no more first-generation kits would appear. Not so. Takom then released a MEXAS and are due to look at other versions including the 1A5/C2. MENG have also taken another look at their more problematic issues in their kit and have reworked

modeller and so we may finally have a kit to match

member of this family, it seemed like a good time to bring together some cool features to show you

using readily available kits and accessories. In so doing, we felt that each of the main versions could

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FORWARD CONTENTS

How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 3

How to build... THE LEOPARD FAMILY IN 1:35

Page 2 ForwardPage 4 IntroductionPage 6 Chapter 1 From The Box: MENGs Leopard 1A3/4

Page 13 Chapter 2 Classic Plastic

Page 14 Chapter 3 Genietank by Marcel Jussen

Page 22 Chapter 4 The Next Generation

Page 34 Chapter 5 Now You See Me: Nets, Rags and Rubber Mats

Page 42 Chapter 6 In Detail: Leopard 2A6 by Rudi Meir

Page 46 Chapter 7 Denmarks Big Cat by John Murphy

Page 52 Chapter 8 The Canadian Leopard by Anthony Seward

Page 56 Chapter 9 Canadian Desert Cat by Brett Green

Page 68 Chapter 10 Used and Abused

Page 78 Chapter 11 In Detail: Leopard C2 Mexas by Anthony Sewards

Page 80 AppendixPage 82 Final Thoughts

Copyright 2014 ADH Publishing Ltd.All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole of any text or photographs without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care has been taken to ensure the contents of this book are accurate, the publisher cannot accept liability for errors.

First Published in the United Kingdom by:ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QXTelephone: 44 (0) 1525 222573Fax: 44 (0) 1525 222574Email: [email protected]: www.adhpublishing.com

Designed by Alex Hall

Page

Page

Page

From The Box: MENGs Leopard 1A3/4

Page

Classic Plastic

Page

Genietank by Marcel Jussen

Page

The Next Generation

Page

Now You See Me: Nets, Rags and Rubber Mats

Page

In Detail: Leopard 2A6 by Rudi Meir

Page

Denmarks Big Cat by John Murphy

Page

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4 Introduction

INTRODUCTION

My very first 1:35 kit was Italeris Leopard 1A4. I seem to remember that a friend of my mother

had bought the kit for their husband and hed never built it. So knowing that I built kits she gave it to me. One week later it was done and my abiding love affair with this family of tanks had begun. But, despite that interest and the desire to add at least one more of these vehicles to my collection, time and circum-stance has always gotten in the way and I never got around to it, despite many inspiring moments during my time as a modelmaker.

Over the years, Ive built hundreds of models in 1:35, leafing through countless books and magazines for the inspiration needed to kickstart the next big project. Throughout that time there have been many models that Ive seen that have had the wow factor, but perhaps two of the most memo-rable were Francois Verlindens Leopard 1A4 and Flakpanzer Gepard that he built for the Tamiya catalogue and his own Verlinden Way books. Both of these models

cemented a desire to recreate these impressive vehicles, constructing them in a way that reflected their use in the huge Cold War exercises that raged across the plains of Northern Europe, bedecked as they were in stowage and camouflage netting, along with those colourful friend or foe crosses that were so easy to pick out against their drab camouflage and dirty finishes.

Along with the hours spent looking at these two models, it is not easy to forget the impression that a visit to a local show had on such a young mind, keen to learn. There, amongst the inevitable col-lection of Tigers and Shermans a modeller had displayed the, then very new, Italeri Leopard 2A4. It was painted immaculately and covered in the most wonderfully modelled camouflage netting I had ever seen. I was mesmerised! The name of the modeller was not something that was ever discovered, but that single vehicle was enough to make me want to build the Leopard 2A4. Little did I know that it would take almost thirty years before I would finally build that vehicle in 1:35

Fast forward to 2012. Brett Green and I were invited to Edmonton in Canada to attend their summer model show. As part of the trip we were able to visit the Lord Strathconas Horse (Royal Canadians) Regiment in Edmonton and examine their Leopards up close. As soon as that first vehicle rolled into the compound and I could see those lines and hear that engine, I was hooked! I knew right then that I would have to build at least one of these machines in miniature and so when, last year, Marcus Nicholls asked me to build the Revell 2A4 for Tamiya Model Magazine International, there really was only ever going to be one answer!

For the modeller keen to build the Leopard in its many incarnations, there are plenty of choices, from Leopard 1, all the way through to the awesome 2A6 and its deriva-tives. Add to those basic kits the plethora of aftermarket conversions,

details and updates and the budding enthusiast could keep themselves busy for years!

This book is the result of a desire to build a representative collection of Leopards and in so doing, cover most of the more popular variants using kits that are readily available to the modeller. It also allows us to offer some variety in terms of colour schemes and approach, with all of the models built and painted differ-ently. Combine the ideas together and you will be able to tackle any project and not just those seen here or rather, thats the plan!

Though we have looked at six different Leopards, we have unashamedly concentrated much of our effort on the Canadian C2 MEXAS. Though one of the oldest vehicles in service based as it was on a Leopard 1 this battle-hardened machine showed what was is possible when state of the art upgrades are added to a tank to make it as capable as far newer, more sophisticated vehicles. Its record in service and the upgrades that were incrementally added to the seventeen MEXAS that were sent to Afghanistan makes for a wonderfully flexible modelling project, too; dust, dirt, scabbed-on items of kit, damage, stowage and a constantly evolving finish, make it a perfect modern-day subject, that can be approached in much the same way that you would a WWII subject. Indeed, thats exactly the way I approached my model with no compromises in terms of the levels of dirt or stowed items, fixed in place to add interest to this sleek, modern, MBT.

Over the next eighty-odd pages you will discover seven models to enjoy: three, first-generation; three, second-generation and one, engineering vehicle. Each of these has been built from readily available kits, using easy to obtain accesso-ries, tools and finishing products.

Along with the kits that we chose to build, a decision was also made to complete them in finishes that were as realistic as possible. Though there are many schools

INTRODUCTION

Cosfords Leopard the perfect backdrop for a photo opportunity!

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INTRODUCTION


of thought regarding painting and weathering, the models seen in this book have been finished with camouflage, markings and weathering layers that we felt were as realistic and natural as possible. With so many images of the real vehicles to hand, we felt confident that by copying the real thing where possible, the resulting models would have a more coherent look and as such, could be displayed together without fear of one or more standing out as being different from the others.

We also tried to find ways to make each model memorable without being overblown. This was achieved by using as many unique features and set-ups as possible, basing each one not only on actual machines, but doing so with as little in the way of aftermarket products, as possible. For instance the Leopard 2A4NL features the

distinctive rolled tarpaulins seen on Dutch machines; the German A6M is covered not only in tarpaulins, but also camouflage netting and skirt extensions and the MEXAS exhibits dust layers copied from an actual machine, rather than appearing generic and an amalgamation of many possible finishes. In doing this, we hope that the simple ideas that were chosen to complete each model, would in combination, allow as wide a group of modellers as possible, the opportunity to build similar models for themselves and not force them to spend a huge amount of additional money on top of the cost of the basic kit. Though some of the techniques are a little more involved, there is nothing within the pages of this book that a modeller with a little experience, couldnt at least attempt and at the end of the process, create some-thing similar for them self using

simple ideas, tools and materials that are readily available. Quite simply, this is a book for everyone and not just the experts!

Alongside the builds, youll also find some full-sized reference features and a comprehensive list of available kits and accessories courtesy of Michael Shackleton and his Leopard Club website. Both of these inclusions is important because we believe that this new book should act as a portal through which you can enter a wider model-ling world full of other projects, that you can embark upon. In fact, Im already planning my next Leopard builds as a result of all of the information that Ive absorbed as a result of putting this book together! Maybe well publish part two, some-time in the future!

So this then is How To Build The Leopard Family In 1:35. We hope you enjoy it!

Posed together, the variations in design and finish are there for all to see.

A real Leopard C2 MEXAS in all of its streamlined glory.

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6 Chapter 1 - From The Box: MENGs 1A3/1A4

CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

There is no doubt that the Leopard is flavour of the month at the moment. For many years we only had

the choice of the Tamiya or Italeri kits from which to build this impres-sive vehicle. And then, several years ago, the modelling world woke up to the idea that this entire family would be welcomed by the model-ling world and within a short space of time, we have been able to build almost every one of the family (including, thanks to the aftermarket and resin kit manufacturers, the engineer vehicles). MENG are one the newest companies to walk this path with their Leopard 1A3/A4, so lets take a look at what we have.

IN THE BOXThe first thing that strikes you about MENG kits is the superb packaging; I know its not the most important factor in the success of a kit, but it does help create the impression of a quality product. Open up the box and you are faced with a collection of wonderfully packaged plastic parts, excellent instructions, photo-etched frets and a superb full-colour painting guide and decals, covering four individual schemes. So far, so very good.

Across the board the quality of the moulding and the levels of detail is very good with plastic parts that are sharp and entirely flash-free. Sprue gates are kept to a minimum and moulding seams fine and easy to clean up. It is also worth pointing out that the kit is also broken down in a very straight-forward manner and so the parts count is kept to a minimum.

Digging deeper there are some really pleasing features that push this kit above and beyond those already available. The kit skirts for instance are beautifully detailed,

MENG 1:35 LEOPARD 1A3/4

Italeris ancient Leopard is finally replaced with a state-of-the-art kit from the Far East. Spencer Pollard shows you how to get the best from it step by step

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How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 7How to Build... The Leopard Family in 1:35 7

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replicating the dimpled surface texture of the originals to a tee. I was similarly impressed by the large upper hull, its fine surface details being well defined and as sharp as one could wish for. The engine deck is particularly noteworthy a choice of fan inserts (one for the Greek option) and etched cover adding immeasurably to the illu-sion of reality.

Smaller details are similarly impressive, the on-vehicle tools scoring particularly well in this regard. These are not only well moulded and finely detailed, they include a full set of clamps that are fine enough to pass for aftermarket additions, without any of the additional work! Youll also find a clear sprue that deals with the periscopes, headlights and searchlight lens, though rather disappointingly, not the rear lights which are moulded in situ as part of the rear hull plate.

Though there is much to enjoy in this kit, all is not completely perfect. The first items to let the kit down are the road wheels. These suffer from rear faces that are completely the wrong shape (looking to be fitted with large drum brakes!) and then hubs that are the too large inside rims that are far too sharply defined. Detail is soft too and though the addition of dirt and staining does much to hide the deficiencies on the outer faces, it can do little to hide the problems where they join the swing arms. Speaking of which, the swing arms are rather plain in appearance, lacking the circular depression and nipple where they are bolted to the torsion bars, but they do work allowing a degree of movement that would be useful should you wish to build a vignette/diorama around your model.

The running gear is finished off with a choice of 8 or 15 bolt sprock-ets and two vinyl track lengths or a full set of individual plastic links. As the detail was good enough, sag was not a problem - and most of the links would be hidden on the completed model the vinyl tracks were painted and then fitted, normal liquid glue being used to join each run together. Its been a while since Ive used vinyl tracks, but these looked great in place!

One of the more important features of this vehicle are the weld beads that pepper its surfaces. These are not dealt with particularly well being rather indistinct or the wrong pattern in places and though they are, by and large where they should be, could really do with some extra work to bulk them out and make the patterning on each one look somewhat more authentic.

As is apparent from the open-ing description, this kit actually replicates both the 1A3 and 1A4 variants. In so doing, a number of optional parts are included such as the PERI R12 Panoramic Periscope and PZB200 Sighting System, smaller periscopes and antenna mounts. In offering the two variants, the kit supplies four different colour schemes. These are as follows: Leopard 1A3 Bundeswehr 2

Squadron, 304 Panzer Battalion, mid 1980s. Finished in three-tone NATO camouflage

Leopard 1A3 Bundeswehr 4 Squadron, 301 Panzer Battalion, 1980s. Finished in plain green.

Leopard 1A4 Bundeswehr 4 Squadron, 293 Panzer Battalion, 1980s. Finished in plain green

Leopard GR1 Hellenic Army. Finished in four-tone Hellenic Army brown, green, black, sand.

For this build I unashamedly built a what if model that I intend using as part of a diorama later in the year. I really liked the idea of building a vehicle fitted with the PZB200 sight, but also liked the three-tone colours. As I was already taking liberties with the fixtures and fittings, it seemed to be no more problematic to do so with the markings too and so I used the sombre 293rd Squadron colours and numbers to decorate my fantasy vehicle. I appreciate that

CHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 1 FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4FROM THE BOX: MENGS 1A3/1A4

replicating the dimpled surface texture of the originals to a tee. I was similarly impressed by the large upper hull, its fine surface details being well defined and as sharp as one could wish for. The engine deck is particularly noteworthy a choice of fan inserts (one for the Greek option) and etched cover adding immeasurably to the illu-

similarly impressive, the on-vehicle tools scoring particularly well in this regard. These are not only well moulded and finely detailed, they include a full set of clamps that are fine enough to pass for aftermarket additions, without any of the additional work! Youll also find a clear sprue that deals with the periscopes, headlights and searchlight lens, though rather

One of the more important features of this vehicle are the weld beads that pepper its surfaces. These are not dealt with particularly well being rather indistinct or the wrong pattern in places and though they are, by and large where they should be, could really do with some extra work to bulk them out and make the patterning on each

MENGs Leopard is very easy to build, with perfect fit and little in the way of clean-up, to hold up progress.

A choice of vents is offered, the

standard one seen here, and a tropical unit suitable for the

Greek version.

Though virtually hidden on the

completed model, these small vents

on the engine deck are replicated in

photo-etch.

Power cables were added to the searchlight

and PZB200 sight using lead wire and small resin

connectors from the spares box.

A small amount of filling and

sanding is needed where the side skirts meet the

front mudguards. Humbrol Model

Filler and a touch of thin superglue dealt with this in

short order.

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this was an A4 and would not be backdated to an A3 with an updated colour scheme(!), but it fitted my need to build a generic vehicle that will live in a completely imagined, fictional location.

CONSTRUCTIONWork begins on the lower hull, sus-pension and running gear. The one-piece lower hull tub is decorated with all of the smaller suspension dampers, bump-stops and mounts for the idler and sprocket wheels. Once in place the swing arms can be slotted through the wall of the hull. These are fixed inside the hull so that the swing arms can rotate, tensioned prototypically, by the tor-sion bars. This works well and adds a degree of flexibility when it comes to the set up of the model later on. Should you wish to represent wheels over uneven terrain, leave the arms loose, but if not, I would suggest fixing the arms perma-nently at this point. The wheels are easy to clean up and assemble, the two halves of the main units trap-ping a poly-cap, thus allowing the wheels to be removed for painting. Two types of sprocket are included, the later 15-bolt units being suitable for the Greek option.

The upper hull fits well to the completed lower hull, as does the rear hull plate. As usual, I joined all of these parts prior to adding the smaller details, any adjustment that may have been needed, being possible without worrying about damaging the finer details.

The smaller items such as the tools were essentially used as-is, the only improvements being to open out some of the solid locking clamps with a fine drill bit and scal-pel. Detail here really is top drawer, each tool capturing the look and feel of the originals to a tee. Though the instructions suggest adding the clear periscopes now, these were left off as were their etched guards until after the model had been painted and weathered.

One of the weaknesses in this kit is the depiction of the exhaust outlets on the rear hull sides. These are extremely toy-like and really dont capture the delicate look of the real thing at all. In fact, Italeris 70s era kit depicts these items with

Before painting could begin proper, the model was sprayed with several thin layers of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.

Painting begins with several layers of Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green. The wheels were first sprayed black and then the hubs airbrushed with the help of a cheap circle template.

With the green dry, the brown could be applied. Care was taken to follow the pattern shown in the instructions, to the letter. There is no doubt that the use of lighter colours at this stage makes the model appear to be more in-scale

The camouflage is completed with the addition of the German Grey layer. Note the tight demarcations, made possible thanks to the use of Tamiya acrylics and Mr Color Thinner.

With the camouflage painted, the entire model was sprayed with a fine layer of Tamiya Buff to both blend the colours together and provide the first layer of weathering.

With the wash dry, the details were drybrushed with Humbrol enamels. This both popped the detail and smoothed out the finish.

The results of the washing and drybrushing can be seen in this view, especially on the side skirts.

Though looking fine in its camouflage, the details needed to be defined and so the model was treated to a pin-wash mixed from Winsor & Newton Raw Umber, thinned with white spirit.

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more finesse, which is astonishing given the quality of much of the rest of the kit. They were used as sup-plied here, but should I build this kit again they would be replaced as they really do detract from the look of the completed model.

The final items to be added were the two large side skirts. These run the entire length of the Leopard, their front end forming a smooth, curved mudguard. As supplied in the kit, there is a joint line that needs to be dealt with where the two mudguard halves meet, so this was glued together with MEK, left to dry and then filled with thin Humbrol Model Filler and thin superglue. This was then sanded smooth and polished with fine sanding sponges until all trace of the joint had disappeared.

The turret is up next. As with the hull, the turret is assembled from several large sections detailed with plenty of small features such as hatches, sights, smoke dischargers and that distinctive gun barrel. The instructions suggest starting with the searchlight and in this case, PZB200 Sighting System. These are easy to construct, the searchlight offering a choice of open or closed doors, a glazed panel being used should the former be chosen for your model. The PZB200 is an interesting item that surrounded by a complex protective frame thats moulded incredibly, in only one piece! You may find a touch of cleaning up here and there, but essentially it can be used as sup-plied, slipping neatly over the sight.

The barrel is moulded in two halves with a separate muzzle complete with delicate rifling to complete its front end. Though one-piece barrels are de riguour these days, two part barrels can look very good so long as you take your time to line up the two halves before committing to the glue pot. You can then clean it up with fine sanding sticks and polishing pads to create a smooth, round barrel. With the barrel slipped into place on the mantlet and then the seachlight and PZB200 fixed to their brackets, this sub-assembly can be fixed to the mounts within the turret and then the shell completed, ready for the smaller details.

As mentioned earlier, the different

vehicles are fitted with different optical devices such as the PERI R12 Panoramic Periscope and so you need to drill holes into the turret to mount some of them. This is simple enough, but it does mean that you have to make early choices as to which vehicle you are going to model. You could of course be fly and simply open up all of the holes to increase the time needed to make a decision and then close up the ones you dont need, but Id rather be more prepared! Whilst making those decisions you can add either of the two different antenna bases and mounts, before dealing with the hatches and smoke dischargers. These items are deli-cately moulded and relatively easy to assemble, despite the smoke dischargers needing no end of adjustment, before they were all lined up and in the correct position relative to each other.

Before tackling the paint job, the model was checked for any flaws and then the instructions inspected to see if Id missed any of the smaller parts, which is easily done during a detailed build such as this!

The model was now ready to be painted.

CAMOUFLAGE AND MARKINGSPainting commenced by giving the model several thin coats of Tamiyas Super Fine Primer to create a smooth, hard surface onto which I could apply the three-tone camouflage. Across the board I used Tamiya acrylics thinned with Mr Color Thinner, sprayed with my Iwata HP-CH airbrush.

Ive long-since stopped using preshading, but in this case I felt it worth spraying a dark colour under the hull and inside the skirts, hull sides and onto the back of the roadwheels to add a little contrast. The wheels were then stuck onto a kit box with double-sided tape and sprayed with several thin coats of flat black. Once dry, a circle tem-plate was used to mask off the rims so that they could be sprayed green to match the upper surfaces. It was now time to paint the camouflage.

If you paint one of these three-tone NATO schemes, you have off the shelf choices of colour with Tamiyas NATO Green, Black and

Weathering began with the application of different shades of dusty pigments.

The pigments were applied dry and also mixed with

thinners, the latter splattered over the

suspension with and old, flat brush.

Though I mainly used oils and

enamels to apply stains and

the like on this model, some

use was made of proprietary

weathering solution such as AK Interactives

Oil Stains.

Tiny mud splashes were

added to the model using

AKs Fresh Mud, flicked over the model using an old, flat brush.

The lights were first painted silver and then glazed with Tamiya clear

colours.

A simple pencil adds a metallic sheen on the tools and tow-rope.

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A. The rear of the hull shows off how the layers of weathering work together to create a realistic finish.

B. The tools are an integral part of the model and must be painted and weathered with the same level of attention as the rest of the model.

C. The two, crew figures are actually the same basic resin figure. The smaller chap was used stock, the larger commander was converted with a new head and sculpted hood. They were both painted entirely in Vallejo acrylics.

D. Theres a vent of the right-hand side of the hull that needs to be carefully weathered to create a rusty, sooty appearance. Note the wooden tool handles, painted in oils over an acrylic basecoat.

E. The headlights are the only glazed lights on the model. Decals were applied with the aid of Johnsons Klear before being oversprayed with matt varnish and then blended in with oils and pigments.

More splashes, dust and dirt. Lovely!

Brown topping the list for acrylic users. The problem with these col-ours is that despite being close to the real shades, they are too dark for a miniature and are very difficult to weather pleasingly, as a result. That being so, Ive replaced each one of these with lighter colours that once weathered, are closer to the shades I feel is appropriate on a 1:35 model. So, in this case I used XF-71 Cockpit Green, XF-63 German Grey and Tamiya XF-68 NATO Brown lightened with around 30% XF-15 Flat Flesh. In combina-tion, these shades look very good on a model and having now used them twice the first time on Revells SPz Puma Im more than happy with my choices!

Happy that the camouflage was perfectly dry, the whole model was sprayed with a VERY thin layer of Tamiya Buff thinned with 80% thinners. This served two purposes: firstly, it blended the three colours together slightly and secondly, added the initial layer of dust, onto which I could begin the main weathering runs. At this point the model looked fine, but of course needed more work to define those details and create a well-used machine. This began by mixing a thin wash from Winsor & Newton Raw Umber oil paint, Humbrol Matt Black and white spirit. The model was then dampened small areas at a time and then the washes carefully applied around details, panel lines and corners. Once dry, any excess was blended away with a soft, flat brush, dragging some of the wash down the vertical surfaces to create the impression of dirt runs, rain wash and the like.

One of the techniques Ive returned to lately is drybrushing. Though slightly out of favour amongst modellers, I feel that it is

a useful way of refreshing a finish post washing and so I mix up light-ened shades of the camouflage col-ours using Humbrol enamels and then carefully drybrush each colour individually, until the smaller details subtly pop out. This is done slowly and with a light touch; Im not looking to create a frosted surface, just highlight those delicate details and in the process, deepen the shadows created by the washes. It also helps to smooth out the finish and further unify the colours.

I have to admit that I rather liked the old-school look of the model at this point, but knew that it was necessary to further degrade the finish with pigments and additional washes, until the model looked as grubby as those real vehicles I had studied in my reference photos. To do this I gradually applied some random deposits of Mig Production

Europe Earth pigment, fixing each layer into place with Migs Thinners For Washes (plain white spirit would also do) before blending in the effected areas of dust with a soft brush. This was repeated over the surface of the model until happy, before airbrushing it with a layer of Migs Pigment Fixer to set every-thing in place.

Now for the fun part! I mixed some of the pigment with thinners to create a coloured solution and then airbrushed the results over the surface of the model, the rear hull plate, bow plate and nose, side skirts and upper surfaces heavier around the lower flanks, lighter on the upper surfaces. At first you see no effect of this work, but as the thinners evaporates youll see the surfaces lighten and become covered in a very thin, evenly dis-tributed layer of dust. This layer can

how the layers of how the layers of users. The problem with these col-users. The problem with these col-

A. B.

D.

C.

E.

p 06-12 CH1 Leopard.indd 11 01/08/2014 09:26



then be manipulated with brushes, a finger, cotton buds and soft cloth, to create the most wonderfully real-istic dust effect. Once again, it is worked to personal satisfaction and then fixed with an airbrushed layer of Fixer. Ive tried dozens of ways of replicating dust on a model, but nothing comes close to this one, both in terms of realism and ease of manipulation.

It is always tempting to leave a model be at this point, but though weathered the dust and dirt tends to look a little bland and so its now given a few layers of additional washes to add to the impression of use and break up that rather mono-chrome dust. In this instance I used the same Raw Umber and Matt Black wash mixed earlier, along with some of AK Interactives Dark Mud. These two solutions were applied with a brush in controlled layers, or flicked onto the model with an old flat brush. Flicking the colour onto the model really helps to impart the look of random splashes and stains and is something that I do a great deal, both on armour an aircraft. To see how this looks in practice, please examine the nose, wheels and rear hull plate of this model, all of which have been heavily treated with these layers of colour.

The smaller details could now be painted. As with many modern vehicles there really is no quick way around the finishing of the vehicles fixtures and fittings, you just have to bite the bullet and get cracking! The easiest way to do this is to block out all of the tools with their


around the finishing of the vehicles fixtures and fittings, you just have to bite the bullet and get cracking! The easiest way to do this is to block out all of the tools with their

relevant colours and then overlay other shades as appropriate. For instance, the tools were painted with matt black metallic parts and desert yellow wooden handles. Once dry the metallic parts were washed with Humbrol Khaki Drill and then drybrushed with more matt black, before rubbing each one with a fine layer of graphite to create a metallic finish. The wooden handles could then be coated with a thin layer of neat Raw Umber oil paint and the excess removed in long thin strokes, each one creating the illusion of wood grain. Once dry, some shading could be added and then the clamps painted with their relevant camouflage colours. Dark washes and the application of pigments finished the job.

FINAL THOUGHTSI enjoyed building Mengs Leopard and I really like the completed model. In my opinion this is a really important member of the Leopard family and its good to finally have this model in the display case, which after all really is the object of the exercise and for that reason, I would consider this new kit a suc-cess and one to be recommended.

MODEL SPEC

TOOLS AND MODELLING PRODUCTS USEDTamiya Extra Thin Liquid CementTamiya Masking TapeGF9 Super GlueTamiya Fine Surface PrimerDaco Strong Setting Solution

PAINTS AND FINISHING PRODUCTSMr Color ThinnerTamiya XF-71 Cockpit GreenXF-63 German GreyXF-68 NATO BrownXF-15 Flat FleshXF-57 BuffGames Workshop Purity SealWinsor & Newton Raw UmberHumbrol 33 Matt Black72 Khaki Drill159 Khaki Green86 Light Olive27 Sea Grey140 Gull GreyVallejo Flat VarnishVallejo 169 Black150 German Camo Black Brown306 Dark RubberVallejo Face Painting SetMig Productions Pigments, Dark Wash and Dust Effects

From whichever angle you look at it, the Leopard 1A3 is a very handsome vehicle.

The glossy lights on the rear hull add a much needed splash of colour. Note also the delicate mud splashes and layers of fine dust.

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CHAPTER 2 CLASSIC PLASTIC


CLASSIC PLASTICSpencer Pollard takes a look at a reissue of the very first 1:35 armour kit he ever built, Italeris Leopard 1A4.

Looking back, I dont remember where I got this kit from. I certainly didnt buy it, so can only assume

that I came by it through either a swap with a friend, or a present. Either way, this was my first armour kit and as such, it holds a very special place in my heart.

Having built one over thirty years ago, it was nice to be reacquainted with it when Italeri chose to rerelease it as part of their Vintage Collection. Not only could I see if their Leopard was as good as I remembered it to be, it could also be compared to other, newer kits that I had built over the last year.

Opening the box, you are faced with a kit that must have been something else all of those years ago and even now, looks to be

well detailed, comprehensive and in many ways, worthy of attention. Detail is still very good, all of the features of the original being well captured. Indeed, in some case Italeris parts are better than MENGs; the exhaust vents for instance are finer and the wheels, though decorated with ribbed tyres, have none of the ridiculous drums on their rear faces that so define the MENG and indeed, Takom, offerings.

Smaller details such as the hatches, smoke dischargers, MG and tools, still look superb, the latter featuring tool clamps when such things werent even a twinkle in the photo-etchers eye. Youll also find a neat Hoffman gunfire simulator for the barrel, commander figure and get this! moulded aerials,

tow cables and even a power cable for the searchlight!

It really is astonishing that such a complex kit could have been pro-duced so long ago. According to the information on the box, this kit was first released in 1976, three years before Tamiya released their A4. Comparing the two kits shows just how far ahead Italeri were in terms of detail and features, their Leopard being head and shoulders above their Far Eastern rivals. At that time, they were simply the best manufac-turer of 1:35 kits on the planet.

Even today, I really like this kit and have every intention of building it again. It may not be up to the standards that we can expect in 2014, but there is still enough within the box to satisfy the enthusiast and with a little TLC and some modern finishing ideas and techniques, should result in a fine replica. All I have to do is find the time but then, Ive waited thirty years to see this kit, so what difference will a few

Italeris reissue of their classic Leopard 1A4 now forms part of their Vintage Collection. When I last built this kit, it was almost new!

Even now, detail on this kit stands

up well against far more modern

offerings.

If anything gives away the age of this kit, it is the

commander figure!

The start of a thou-sand ideas: Francois Verlindens build of this kit in his classic The Verlinden Way Vol.II

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14 Chapter 3 - Genietank

CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK

The need for special pur-pose variants of tracked armoured vehicles became apparent during World

War II. Traditional wheeled recovery vehicles either could not handle the load or the terrain when faced with handling heavy tanks in the field so using a tank to recover a tank seemed a logical choice. Because tanks where in short supply with most armies, it was important to use the tank for what it was meant to be; a weapon on the battlefield. Having to use a tank to recovery another tank meant the front would lose not just one but two tanks at the time when they were needed the most. Converting obsolete or damaged tanks to recovery vehicles was a practical solution for this problem. Removing the gun and turret from an old tank created a tug capable of towing other tanks. Adding specialised equipment such as a winch or welding and cutting equipment enhanced the range of capabilities further and further.

The protection that a tank can provide in combat conditions becomes a necessity not only when recovering a vehicle but also during typical combat engineering tasks such as obstacle or mine clearance. However, this requires a vehicle with capabilities a recovery tank most often cannot provide. World War II has seen the birth of a range of specialised engineering tanks, the Hobarts Funnies being some of the most famous ones. These tanks played a major role on the Commonwealth beaches during the D-Day landings and are considered the forerunners of modern combat engineer-ing vehicles.

ENTER THE PIONIERPANZERAs early as in the planning and designing stage of the Standard Panzer Leopard, now better known as Leopard 1, it was decided that a recovery tank based on all major components of the Leopard 1 was needed. Keeping a commonality of parts was important because it offers a major advantage when providing spare parts in wartime conditions. It was one of many important lessons the Germans learned during World War

GENIETANK


The need for special pur-pose variants of tracked armoured vehicles became apparent during World

War II. Traditional wheeled recovery vehicles either could not handle the load or the terrain when faced with handling heavy tanks in the field so using a tank to recover a tank seemed a logical choice. Because tanks where in short supply with most armies, it was important to use the tank for what it was meant to be; a weapon on the battlefield. Having to use a tank to recovery another tank meant the front would lose not just one but two tanks at the time when they were needed the most. Converting obsolete or damaged tanks to recovery vehicles was a practical solution for this problem. Removing the gun and turret from an old tank created a tug capable of towing other tanks. Adding specialised equipment such as a winch or welding and cutting equipment enhanced the range of capabilities further and further.

The protection that a tank can provide in combat conditions becomes a necessity not only when recovering a vehicle but also during typical combat engineering tasks such as obstacle or mine clearance. However, this requires a vehicle with capabilities a recovery tank most often cannot provide. World War II has seen the birth of a range of specialised engineering tanks, the Hobarts Funnies being some of the most famous ones. These tanks played a major role on the Commonwealth beaches during the D-Day landings and are considered the forerunners of modern combat engineer-ing vehicles.

ENTER THE PIONIERPANZERAs early as in the planning and designing stage of the Standard Panzer Leopard, now better known as Leopard 1, it was decided that a recovery tank based on all major components of the Leopard 1 was needed. Keeping a commonality of parts was important because it offers a major advantage when providing spare parts in wartime conditions. It was one of many important lessons the Germans learned during World War

GENIETANKMarcel Jussen builds a Royal Dutch Army Leopard Armoured Engineer Vehicle (AEV) offering hits and tips on building resin kits, along the way

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK


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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK

II. Designed by Porsche and built by MaK of Kiel the first Bergepanzer 2 Standard left the production line in 1966. Though the Leopard 1 bat-tle tank and the recovery tank share a seventy-five percent commonality in parts, they are two very different tanks. The different upper hull structure, the crane on the right, a winch and a dozer blade at the front leave little room as to what the Bergepanzer 2 is meant to do.

Based on the Bergepanzer 2, the Pionierpanzer 1 became the second specialised variant of the Leopard 1 combat tank. The Pionierpanzer 1, also build by MaK, is basically the same vehicle as the recovery tank and can carry out the same tasks. Again, the commonal-ity of components being a major factor in its design.

Its main purpose as an engineer-ing vehicle is to overcome obsta-cles and build defences. To carry out these tasks the Pionierpanzer 1 has an enlarged and wider blade to provide dozer and obstacle clear-ing capabilities. The dozer blade can hold a set of pulling prongs attached to the bottom rear of the dozer blade for demolition purpos-es. A hydraulically operated ground auger, normally stored on the rear deck, is attached to the crane for drilling manholes that conceal a soldier in the field. The hydraulic system of the Pionierpanzer that powers the blade, crane and auger was adapted to be used for a much longer and intensive period com-pared to the system used on the Bergepanzer 2. Besides the large dozer blade, another distinctive feature of the Pionierpanzer is the big cast ventilator/access door fit-ted to the right hull side which gives access to the hydraulic system. The crane on the Pionierpanzer was also fitted with a ladder to facilitate the fitting of the auger system which is also a good means of identifying a Leopard Pionierpanzer from a Bergepanzer 2.

Though the Pionierpanzer could be used, not only as an engineering vehicle but also as a recovery vehicle, it was built in low numbers. Just under 100 vehicles were ever built and most were used by the German, Dutch and Italian army. Because part of its capabilities in time became less

GENIETANKGENIETANK

useful, the auger being one of them, the German army converted all of its thirty-six Pionierpanzer 1 to the Leopard Dachs. The Royal Dutch Army however maintained the role of the Leopard Genietank, the name it gave to the Leopard Pionierpanzer 1, as a specialised armoured engineering vehicle for its engineer corps. Even though budget cuts have led to the loss of all Leopard I and Leopard II tanks within the Dutch forces, the Leopard Genietank continues to be a valu-able combat engineering vehicle to this day. Next to the Leopard 1 and Leopard 2 recovery tank it is one of the very few large tanks still in use with the Dutch army. The succes-sor to the Leopard Genietank, the Leopard 2 based Kodiak, is slowly finding its way into the engineering corps. So before all are gone, it was time for me to build a scale model of this remarkable vehicle.

IN MINIATUREThere are quite a few Leopard 1 kits of various versions and scales going around, the Meng, Revell and

Tamiya kits being the most popular. But armoured tracked recovery and engineering vehicles are rare to find as styrene kits in any scale, the Leopard 1 Pionierpanzer, being no exception. So building one in scale means searching for a resin conversion kit or scratchbuilding it yourself. A couple of years ago the German company Perfect Scale Modellbau (PSM) released the excellent Leopard Bergepanzer 2 as a full resin kit. It is an accurate representation in 1/35th scale and, as an option, even comes with an interior. At the time I embarked on this modelling endeavour, the Pionier variant was still being developed by PSM. Knowing very well that PSMs version would be the German version of the Pionierpanzer, the outcome would be having to scratchbuild the Dutch parts anyway. I already had the PSM Leopard Bergepanzer 2 at home for quite some time and while researching the Dutch Genietank, I came to conclusion that I could scratch-build the parts for the Genietank myself.

The model is taking shape quickly now the hull is mated to the upper deck. The running gear is done and some of the tools are also in place. The engine deck is not yet detailed but the Voyager photo-etch mesh is fitted.

The first scratchbuilt parts are done. The blade looks mighty impressive. At this stage the smoke mortar system, antenna and rear mounted stowage box are also in place. The copper wire used for the towing cable comes from the PSM kit.

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK


THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENTSo what are the differences between the German Leopard Pionierpanzer and the Dutch Leopard Genietank? While both vehicles have a lot in common, a few changes are representative to most Dutch Leopard tanks. All Dutch Leopard 1 vehicles and variants have retained the old Diehl D139E2 tracks with chevron shaped rubber pads. Luckily, PSM has a perfect solution for this problem as they produce as set of resin tracks suitable for early Leopards and all Dutch variants as well.

The Royal Dutch Army has also been using their own Philips radio systems and antennae as well as a unique smoke mortar system on all their vehicles. The antenna base is mounted inside a large metal box structure and the length of the antenna is longer than current German antennae. The Dutch smoke mortars differ quite a lot from the German system and is still located at the top left edge of the superstructure. In time the ladder on top of the crane arm has been replaced with a tarpaulin covered construction used for additional stowage room. Not all Dutch Leopard Genietanks are exactly identical to each other. Those that have been used in foreign deployments like SFOR and KFOR in Croatia and Serbia, have been outfitted with two wire-cutting devices in front of the drivers hatch. While the cutters themselves or often stowed away, the mounts are still visible.

The auger is hardly ever mounted on the Leopard Genietank anymore so while it was a welcome relief not having to scratch-build these dif-ficult parts, it forced me to see what could be done with the large empty space on the rear deck where the auger is stored. The Dutch Army engineering corps uses fascines to overcome tank trenches or small rivers in conjunction with the Leopard Genietank. The fascines are a bundle of hard plastic tubes tied together with chains, wire and mesh and are capable of holding the weight of a full size tank.

The Genietank uses its crane to lift and deploy the fascines. In some cases the fascines are loaded on top of a set of aluminium

bars mounted to the underside of the dozer blade of the Leopard Genietank. This way the fascines are deployed by manoeuvring the tank and lowering the dozer blade at the right moment. However by carrying the fascines on the bars in front of the dozer blade, the tank drivers forward view is severely impaired by the fascines which is not very practical during long distances of travel.

When the Genietank is in the field, the fascines can also be stowed on top of the engine deck. A couple of wooden beams are laid out on the rear deck to provide enough space for the engine cool-ing system to ventilate properly. The fascines themselves are then stowed on top of the wooden beams whereas the crane is set on top of the fascines to keep every-thing in place. As I wanted to build my model with the fascines I figured the weight of the fascines and bars, when mounted to the blade, could become a problem especially when transporting the model. So I preferred the fascines being stored on the engine deck.

GETTING STARTEDBuilding a resin kits is quite different compared to normal styrene plastic kits. While detail on a resin part can be just as good as or even better than a styrene part, handling and building a resin kit is very different to what you may have been used too. If you have no experience with resin, I recommend building a small resin conversion first so you get acquainted to the material and building techniques before embark-ing on a full size resin kit. Heres a few tips and pointers when working with resin.

Before you start working on your resin kit, it may be necessary to clean the resin parts in bath of warm soap. Resin is poured in a rubber mould that is often coated with a release agent. A residue of this release agent can remain on the resin part making it impossible to glue the part to your model. You can only glue resin parts with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If your spouse is complaining about smells while you are building or painting your models, just wait until the smell of sanded resin and cyanoacrylate

The rear of the model showing some of the scratchbuilt parts that were needed. Notice the plastic card at the bottom of the hull that was needed to fill up room because the hull and rear plate didnt fit properly. Also notice the added welding detail made with Archer Fine Details, resin welds.

A close-up of the hydraulic ventilator housing. To create a steel cast effect, thinned Tamiya putty was applied to the surface of the housing.

The right side of the model shows the large access door with the hydraulic ventilation system. Notice the temporary wire I used to keep the crane in its position while testing the fit of parts.

A close-up look at the smoke mortars and antenna. The antenna is an RB Models offering and although it is not an exact copy of the Dutch antenna, it is a nice detail on the model.

The work on the crane arm stowage is done. Notice the photo-etch detail on the tarpaulin straps.

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK

glue gets in the air! Unlike styrene parts on a sprue, resin parts usually come with the casting blocks still attached These need to be cut from the parts either by cutting or, if you have the experience, by gently breaking them of the casting block. Cleaning up resin parts from their casting blocks is laborious and you have to take precautions against resin dust as it is unhealthy in large quantities. Ventilating your working area when working with resin kits is definitely a must!

Another thing you may have to get used to while working with resin is the fact that small parts warp and break easily and if the pouring of the resin is not done correctly some parts can have pockets of air on the surface. Correcting warped parts can be accomplished by dipping the resin part in hot water and adjusting the part by hand. Damage from pockets of air can be repaired with putty or, when the damage is only small, the hole can be filled with thick cyano glue droplets. Remember to use small amounts of cyano glue and a bit of pressure to bond dust and grease free resin parts together. I use a small wire dipped in a drop of cyano glue and hold the tip of the wire at the gap between the parts I need to glue together. This way the glue gets drawn in the gap without creating mess on the surface.

MOVING ONAs I bought my kit without an interior it meant I could start by bonding the hull with the upper deck and rear wall but not before the engine ventilation grill was fitted first. Even though the mesh of the grill was produced in photo-etch, I opted to replace it with a Leopard 1 grill from Voyager, as it was better detailed than the one from the PSM kit. I know this seems like going overboard on details but for ease of mind I rather spend a few euros on the Voyager mesh than not. Unfortunately when working with resin, especially with larger pieces like hulls and decks, you will discover sooner or later that because of the casting process and shrinkage that sometimes occurs, the fit of these parts is not always perfect. In this case, the rear wall that closes of the hull and engine

CHAPTER 3 CHAPTER 3 GENIETANKGENIETANK

glue gets in the air! Unlike styrene parts on a sprue, resin parts usually

from the parts either by cutting or, if you have the experience, by gently breaking them of the casting block. Cleaning up resin parts from their casting blocks is laborious and you

resin dust as it is unhealthy in large quantities. Ventilating your working area when working with resin kits is

get used to while working with resin

and break easily and if the pouring

some parts can have pockets of air on the surface. Correcting warped

dipping the resin part in hot water

need to glue together. This way the glue gets drawn in the gap without

deck and rear wall but not before the engine ventilation grill was fitted first. Even though the mesh of the grill was produced in photo-etch, I opted to replace it with a Leopard

better detailed than the one from the PSM kit. I know this seems like going overboard on details but for ease of mind I rather spend a few euros on the Voyager mesh than not. Unfortunately when working with resin, especially with larger pieces like hulls and decks, you will discover sooner or later that because of the casting process and shrinkage that sometimes occurs, the fit of these parts is not always perfect. In this case, the rear wall that closes of the hull and engine

deck did not fit at the bottom of the hull. The rear wall extended about 1 millimetre beyond the end of the hull. I solved this problem by adding a plastic card plate on top of the bottom of the hull but it also meant I had to recreate the details of the break access hatches that I just covered up with plastic card. As these hatches have a circular shape which could easily be reproduced it was an easy fix to what at first seemed to be a difficult problem.

The Perfect Scale Modellbau kit comes with a set of late style German tracks and because these

cannot be used on a Dutch vehicle, I replaced them with resin chevron shaped Diehl tracks. While many modellers are used to building the wheels and tracks separately for easy access during painting, this was not possible on this resin kit. I had to build and glue the wheels and tracks together completely fitted to the model.

While looking at photographs that I made of the Leopard Genietank in the Dutch army, I noticed that the vehicle does not store the snow grousers to the right of the superstructure like the German

The build is in its final legs. I test fitted the fascine bundle to the engine deck just to get a feel how things would look.

Even without any paint it looks impressive!

Fitting the crane hook to the crane and test fitting it to the fascines. I made sure the entire crane hook assembly could be taken apart from the crane so that painting it would be a lot easier.

The first layer of paint on the fascines was pure matt black but I quickly discovered this to be too dark. I changed it to a dark grey giving more room for weathering effects and creating a more balanced look.

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK


Pionierpanzer does. In fact, Dutch Leopards do not use the snow grousers at all and as the grousers are cast onto the upper hull, it meant I had to remove them from my model. This was achieved by carefully grinding them away with a Dremel tool and repairing the hull surface with putty. Again, when using a tool like a Dremel multi-tool on resin, take precautions against resin dust.

The extended dozer blade was a major part that would have to be scratchbuilt from the ground up. Thankfully theres a great set of scale drawings of the Pionierpanzer in the Leopard 1 Trilogy by Michael Shackleton that I could use for this. Bending a large piece of plastic card by immersing it in hot water and rapidly cooling it off I was able to create the shape of the dozer blade. After that it was a matter of detailing it further with plastic card following the scale drawings and photographs to create the dozer blade. It sounds easy, but I have to admit it took two tries, as the first was a complete and utter disaster. Besides failing to add the extra pieces needed to create the fully extended blade I also damaged it during the bending process. Needless to say I was quite relieved when the second try went a lot better!

The air-cooling unit for the extended hydraulic system of this combat engineering tank is fitted on the right side of the vehicle and is a distinctive feature of the Pionierpanzer and Genietank. Getting it right was just as important as building the extended dozer blade. In this case I used the shape of the hatch that it covers as a template for layers of plastic card. I sanded the part until it had the required size and shape. On top of the ventilation cover to the right sits a mesh covered ventilation hole that I recreated with a bit of mesh and plastic card. The entire part was then covered in thinned Tamiya putty in a stabbing motion to recre-ate the cast structure.

During my research of the Genietank I decided to use the tank with license plate KU-89-45 as the reference for my modelling project. This vehicle has the mount plates for the wire cutters at the front of the superstructure as well as a set

of mud flaps at the hull rear. Both parts were recreated and parts of the mounts for the towing bars were either replaced or detailed with plastic card and copper wire. The engine deck is not only the place to store the drilling auger but also the dozer blade extensions. As I depicted the dozer blade whilst fully extended I still had to build the mountings for the blade extensions on the engine deck. You might think this is a waste of time as the fascine bundle covers up most of the engine deck but when looking from the rear some of this detail is still visible so it was important to me to replicate it anyway.

The ladder on top of the crane has been replaced on all Dutch Genietanks with a frame used for stowage. This frame, made from lengths of tubing, is covered up with a tarpaulin custom made for these tanks. The process of scratchbuilding this part consisted of creating a plastic box like piece

in the general shape of the framework and covering that up with sheets of two-part putty. The plastic gives the part its strength and the putty is used for all the detailing. I draped three individual sheets of putty of the same lengths over the framework just like the real tarpaulin is made of three sheets fitted together. The straps that tie of the tarpaulin are made from putty although the strap ends that drape on top of the crane are pieces of Tamiya tape glued to the tarp. I added photo-etch pieces from the spares box to enhance the detail on the straps, as well.

Unfortunately, during the con-struction of the PSM kit I somehow managed to lose an important part for the crane. In fact, that part was the crane hook. Fortunately, my friend Roel Geutjens who owned the same PSM kit was willing to lend me his so I could recreate it with plastic card.

The last pieces of hull parts that

A. The blade was painted in a metal colour and then heavily chipped with the hairspray technique. The dirt is achieved with different layers of pigments.

B. The fascines were painted in a dark grey colour. I gave the fascines a moderate layer of dirt with pigments. As big as they are, I didnt want them to dominate the entire view of the model.

C. Many of its tools are mounted on both sides of the vehicle. The warning light brings an extra touch of detail and colour to the model.

D. The mesh on top of the hydraulic ventilator system is clearly visible. The prongs used for demolition purposes on top of the deck above the two shovels. When in use they are mounted to the rear of the dozer blade.

E. An overview of the crew access hatches. Even though the commander has the best view of the house, its the driver who operates the dozer blade and crane. Behind the commander is room for a third crew member.

F. A layer of anti-slip has been applied to parts of the superstructure and crane arm. This was done by airbrushing Tamiya clear to a masked region of the surface and covering it with a metal powder. Once it was dry I gave it another thin coat of Tamiya clear.

G. An extreme close-up of the front of the vehicle. The cable pulley shows signs of wear and the inside has been metalized with a pencil.

H. Even though the fascines dominate the engine deck theres still room left for a bit of detail. You can see a glimpse of the wooden blocks that provide enough room for the engine ventilation and cooling system.

A.

C.

E.

G.

B.

D.

F.

H.

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK

needed to be built where the smoke mortar system, the antenna, and driver mirrors. The smoke mortars are unique for Dutch Leopards and I got mine from an old Legend set. The mount and protective bars are made of plastic card and detailed with bolts made with a punch and die. The antenna base is made with plastic card and the antenna itself is a brass part from RB Models. At a later stage I decided to add the orange warning light, which comes from an Accurate Armour set as an extra colourful detail. The driver mirrors are from the PSM kit but the arms of the mirrors are made of brass tube and copper wire. The resin parts for the mirror arms where just a tad bit too fragile for my liking. I also drilled out the driving lights that stick out just above the dozer blade. I inserted a pair of Tron lenses into the lights, which give the model a more realistic look.

The final eyecatcher to be built for this Genietank was the bundle of fascines. That was actually not as hard as I had imagined. I bought a bunch of plastic straws and made template for cutting the straws at the required length. I counted the number of fascines on a real tank and made a few extras with the straws. Just like the real fascines they are kept together on both sides with netting. The outer ring of fascines is actually kept together with a steel wire that runs through each fascine. To handle the bundle with the crane a pair of chains is run through the fascines. I replicated this with the fascines on my model as well.

PAINTING AND WEATHERINGThe model was painted with Tamiya NATO acrylic paints and the camouflage pattern was entirely airbrushed by hand without the use of any masking. The decals for this model comes from a decal sheet made by Echelon Fine Details. I like my models to have a modest amount of weathering but the dozer blade just cried out to receive a more appropriate paintjob. Theres no way you can have a dozer blade without paint damage, rust and dirt. I painted the blade separately in a steel colour and with the help of the hairspray technique created the worn and damaged paintjob. On

The mount and protective bars are made of plastic card and detailed with bolts made with a punch and die. The antenna base is made with plastic card and the antenna itself is a brass part from RB Models. At a later stage I decided to add the orange warning light, which comes from an Accurate Armour set as an extra colourful detail. The driver mirrors are from the PSM kit but the arms of the mirrors are made of brass tube and copper wire. The resin parts for the mirror arms where just a tad bit too fragile for my liking. I also drilled out the driving lights that stick out just above the dozer blade. I inserted a pair of Tron lenses into the lights, which give the model a more realistic look.

The final eyecatcher to be built for this Genietank was the bundle of fascines. That was actually not as hard as I had imagined. I bought a bunch of plastic straws and made template for cutting the straws at the required length. I counted the number of fascines on a real tank and made a few extras with the straws. Just like the real fascines they are kept together on both sides with netting. The outer ring of fascines is actually kept together with a steel wire that runs through each fascine. To handle the bundle with the crane a pair of chains is run through the fascines. I replicated this with the fascines on

PAINTING AND WEATHERINGThe model was painted with Tamiya NATO acrylic paints and the camouflage pattern was entirely airbrushed by hand without the use of any masking. The decals for this

top of that the remains of sand and dirt on top of blade were made with different coloured pigments.

The fascines are pure black in real life but I gave mine a dark grey colour with a dark oil wash and used different pigments to create the dirt effects. The yellowish dust effect on the tank surface but more so on the wheels and tracks are made with different enamel paint washes. The final touch was to add the strap running from the crane hook to the rear hull made from Tamiya tape and painted in a grey and blue enamel colour.

FINAL THOUGHTSIn all it took me a couple of months of building and painting this model before it was finished. It gave me the opportunity to try to build a complex yet interesting model of a modern vehicle you wont see very often and Ive managed to extend my building and painting skills just a bit further than before. A special word of thanks goes to Roel Geutjens for helping me out with the crane hook and all of my friends at KMK for being the inspirational bunch of modelling lunatics you are.

I like my models to have a modest amount of weathering

but the dozer blade just cried out to receive a more appropriate paintjob...

Painting and weathering is done. Notice the scratchbuilt prongs stowed underneath the crane right in front of the fascines. Also, the straps on the tarpaulin are deliberately painted in a lighter colour so they stand out.

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CHAPTER 3 GENIETANK


The different effects of dust and dirt on the blade and the fascines are clearly visible.

The rear of the model is weathered much more heavily as all the dust and dirt accumulates here. The crane hook is tied to the hull with a strap made from Tamiya tape.

The right hand side is so much different to the left. It gives a clear view as to how the netting holds all the fascine tubes in place. Youll probably notice the red bands applied to the tools. This is a Dutch army practice for identifying which tool comes from a certain tank whereas every tank uses its own colour on their toolset.

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CHAPTER 4 THE NEXT GENERATION

22 Chapter 4 - The Next Generation

THE NEXT GENERATIONby Spencer Pollard

REVELL 1:35 LEOPARD 2A4NL

How scratchbuilt details, stowage and crew can help elevate Revells Leopard 2A4, into something truly unique

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When I decided to build the first of my Leopards, the Dutch 2A4 was top of my

list of subject. Many years ago I found a book in a local shop that dealt with NATO tanks and within its pages, could be found a number of photos of this vehicle, complete with long-haired tank crew. These images stuck with me over the years and so when Revells kit was released, that was the only version I contemplated building.

Having made my decision, I hunt-ed around for further images, both online and in print, trying to find as many unique features as I could. Further discussions with friends who had crewed these vehicles highlighted further, the equipment used by the Dutch (including those distinctive tarpaulins) and so I knew that with care, the resulting model could be something just a little dif-ferent. This extended feature, is the result of that journey and the model that I had at the end of it.

THE NEXT GENERATION

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REVELLS KITGiven Revells heritage, its no surprise to see them tackle this family and so hot on the heels of their new-tool A6 seen last year, we now have in my opinion the best looking of the family, the eighties-era 2A4.

Of course those familiar with the earlier A6 kit will find that this one is very similar with an identical set of parts for the lower hull, suspension and running gear. The differences as one might expect, look to be the new runners for the turret, side-skirts, gun and smoke dischargers and of course decals. The rest of the kit remains the same, as does the method of construction. Lets ignore the other kit for a while and take a more detailed look at this one

As with all other German kits from the Revell range, this one is moulded in a rather unpleasant dark green plastic. Though Im somewhat against commenting on such things, I feel it worth doing here because this plastic seems to mask the quality of much of the detail that Revells designers incor-porate into their kits; its only when you apply a coat of grey primer that the finesse of the production becomes apparent and apparent it does, because this is a very fine kit!

A cursory glance at the parts in the box reveals some compre-hensive detail that will be a joy to assemble and paint. From the large sections such as the upper hull and turret, the kit certainly looks impres-sive not to mention, complete. Along with what looks to be an accurate model, certainly in terms of overall appearance and features,

Rather than being moulded in one piece, the hull is broken down into flat panels that combine to create the finished assembly.

Building the hull is easy thanks to the

precise fit of the parts. Tamiya Extra

Thin Cement is a good adhesive for

this task.

Tools of the job for any modelling project: liquid glue and a fine brush

The hull fit together well, but still needssome filler here and there. Weapon of choice for this project was Humbrols excellent filler.

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The weakest parts of the kit are the tracks, two cables and mudflaps, all of which are moulded in a soft vinyl material. Flash, difficult to remove, is apparent on all of these pieces.

The suspension arms are located into the lower hull using a shaped peg and socket joint that fixes each one in place at precisely the right angle.

Heres a close-up of that replacement resin and brass gun barrel from Inside the Armour. The quality of the parts is very good, the brass being cleanly turned and milled and the resin nicely detailed and cast. This little set certainly lifts the appearance of this part of Revells, otherwise splendid kit.

the kit includes plenty to enjoy, both in terms of construction and finish-ing. From the ground up, this is a highly detailed offering from Revell; from the basic assembly of the hull through to the delicate suspension and roadwheels - the latter deco-rated with some very neat casting numbers the kit more than holds its own against far more expensive, not to mention more complex offer-ings from elsewhere.

Across the board, the designers have replicated the Leopard well, all of its many features appearing in miniature. For instance, I was impressed by the anti-slip panels on the upper hull and turret parts, which though perhaps a little too smooth are a lot better than having nothing at all! I was also impressed by the delicate vents on the engine deck - that look amazingly three-dimensional, despite being moulded in one piece - superbly detailed suspension dampers and the finely rendered tools (the latter though, benefitting from replace-ment of their rather rudimentary tool clasps).

Youll see that compromises are apparent in the breakdown of the hull, flat-pack assembly being the order of the day here rather than a one-piece hull on which suspension details are added. Thankfully, the parts fit well together well resulting in a solid base for the rest of the model. That said, youll need to carry out some filling here and there, the nose plate being in need of some work to create a smooth finish. Similar points apply when the upper hull is fixed to the separate side plates, small gaps becoming apparent as this large piece is fixed in place. While youre at it, you may also find that the gun mantlet needs some sink marks filling in too, several being found on this part in our review kit.

Despite much of the kit being very impressive, there are com-promises. The tracks are the most notable. Moulded in soft vinyl material, the tracks are extremely flexible, easily stretched and in each case, supplied in two pieces that need to be joined. Not good. I really wish Revell would take a look at

The completed Leopard 2A4NL detailed and ready to be detailed further with stowage. Before adding any small details, the basic hull and turret was built and then checked for any flaws, Alclad Grey Primer being used to check the joints between the individual panels that make up the hull and turret. Note here that the turret was originally built as-is, the rear stowage bin being closed-over with its kit-supplied cover. That didnt stay in place for long!

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The turrets rear stowage bin was originally covered over with the tarpaulin supplied in the kit, but it soon became apparent that this looked too stiff and out of keeping with the finesse I was trying to achieve over the rest of the model. Decision made, I removed the cover and then lined the inside of the bin with thin plasticard. The bin was filled with some random bits and pieces from the spares box and then covered with tarpaulin made from thinly rolled sheets of Magic Sculp, teased into place with a soft paintbrush and plenty of talcum powder.

In the photographs on the Dutch Leopards that I found, there was a distinctive piece of stowage having from one of the side rails and so I decided to sculpt this for my model. This was down once again with Magic Sculp, a short roll of it being detailed with the same rubber-tipped brushes used for the tarpaulin. Very thin strings, rolled from more putty, replicate the ropes used to hold this piece in place

The smoke dischargers on the sides of the turret are a distinctive feature of Dutch Leopards and so replay careful assembly. In the kit they are rather simplified and so using the Prime Portal website as a reference, they were detailed up using plasticard, Albion Alloys steel wire and some fine florists wire bought from a local Hobbycraft store. Though a small part of the model, the two sub-assemblies for the smoke dischargers took some time to complete, but the results were certainly worth it, being far more detailed than possible from the box.

In order to improve this kit, I used some parts from a redundant Tamiya Leopard that I had in the stash. These included the gunfire simulator fitting to the mantlet, the Tamiya parts perfectly replicating this distinctive piece of equipment. Whilst I was in a detailing frame of mind, the rails on the turret sides were improved by using the mounts from the Tamiya kit with Everygreen rod for the rails themselves

Because of its weight, the gun was fixed in place using 5-minute epoxy and then the mantlet secured with the same material, to remove any chance of the barrel drooping over time. Though the canvass cover just in front of the mantlet is supplied in the ITA barrel kit, I didnt really like it and felt that I could create a more realistic item from scratch. This was done with more putty, some plumbers tape, wrapped around the barrel, adding the final touch of detail.

The glacis plate in detail revealing the Tamiya headlights, spare track links and stowed mirrors. Most obvious in this shot is the rolled hessian thats a feature of Dutch Leopards. Once again I grabbed the Magic Sculp to create this distinctive feature, the soft nature of this material allowing it to draped naturally over the fixtures and fittings found on this part of the Leopard.

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the production of kit tracks in future releases; if they can create link & length tracks in their 1/72 armour releases, I really dont see why they cant produce them this way in the larger, more detailed, 1/35 kits. The design work has already been done and the cost savings are minimal; indeed, I would be happy to pay and extra few pounds to have better tracks in the kit, rather than over 10 for an aftermarket set

Along with the decals that differ-entiate the seven vehicles on offer to the modeller, Revell include the necessary pieces to replicate the specific detail differences between the standard 2A4 and the Dutch A4NL. These include tweaks to the guns muzzle, smoke dischargers,

MG fit on the turret and aerial mounts the latter sitting above variant-specific fillets that find they way onto the sides of the turret. All of these changes are clearly laid out in the instructions, so even absolute beginners will have little problem working out what goes where.

The decal sheet offers seven different vehicles, two German, one Spanish, one Polish, one Dutch, one Austrian and a single Greek example. Along with the changes to markings, these vehicles also exhibit three different camouflage schemes, two in disruptive camou-flage and the rest in overall green. The decal sheet is stunning, being beautifully printed with plenty of vivid colours and detail in evidence.

CONSTRUCTION AND DETAILINGRather than go through the assembly and reworking of this model, I thought that it would be better to work through those stages using captioned images rather that extended text. That said, it may well be worth offer a few sage words of advice for builders of both the basic kit, as well a more heavily modified version thereof.

Revells kit is a flat-pack kit, whereby the lower hull and sections of the upper hull and turret need to be assembled using panels, rather than being supplied in large sec-tions. That being so, you will need to carefully line up the pieces and adjust everything carefully to ensure the hull and turret are both square

Perhaps the weakest part of the model in terms of detail, are the hangers for the large armoured side skirts. These were improved with the addition of some small fixtures and fitting made from plasticard, rod and Evergreen strip. Though not perfect, the results were a huge improvement over the rather plain parts supplied in the kit. This shot reveals more of that sculpted hessian, including the rope that was sculpted to tie it all in place

The photograph that I was using as my inspiration for this build showed some of the hessian pulled away from the roll that ran the length of the vehicle. This was represented in miniature by using two pieces of putty, one rolled up and the other, rolled out. I then carefully joined the two pieces, sculpting tools and paintbrushes being used to tease the folds and creases into shape

A close-up of the rear hull, its distinctive vents and the large mudguards. In the kit the mudguards along with the tracks and the two cables are moulded in a dreadful vinyl material thats impossible to clean-up and so they were replaced with two pieces cut from the rear hull plate supplied in the Tamiya kit. Pioneer tools on the engine deck are a mixture of Tamiya and Revell items the latter being used to create the ends of the tow cables stowed on the deck; the cables themselves are Karaya items.

From the off I knew that this model would end up in a vignette/diorama and so I would need some figures. As Dutch tankers are very thin on the ground in miniature, I needed to create my own. The larger of the two figures was made using a body from VPs NATO Tank Crew set with a hornet head, Tamiya helmet, Dragon hands and Magic Sculp arms. The smaller fellow was essentially made from scratch, a blank resin torso, VP head and Dragon hands being the detail on a uniform sculpted entirely with Magic Sculp, to match the uniform of the other crew member. The plastic drinks bottle was grabbed from Mengs Pick-Up

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CHAPTER 4 THE NEXT GENERATIONTHE NEXT GENERATION

and true. A little filling here and there will also be needed but this is by no means

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How to Build _ The Leopard Family in 1-35

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