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How to Design and Build a Go Kart

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    Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

    How to design and build a go kart.by liquidhandwashon July 30, 2013

    Table of Contents

    How to design and build a go kart. .................................................................................................

    Intro: How to design and build a go kart. .........................................................................................

    Step 1: Stuff you will need ....................................................................................................

    Step 2: Steering Geometry ...................................................................................................

    Step 3: Designing the frame ..................................................................................................

    Step 4: Frame Jig .......................................................................................................... 1

    Step 5: King pins ........................................................................................................... 1

    Step 6: Steering Bush ....................................................................................................... 1

    File Downloads ........................................................................................................... 1

    Step 7: Steering Column ..................................................................................................... 1

    Step 8: Steering hub ........................................................................................................ 2

    Step 9: King pin Jigs ........................................................................................................ 2

    File Downloads ........................................................................................................... 2

    Step 10: Fun with tube ...................................................................................................... 2

    Step 11: Pedals ............................................................................................................ 2

    Step 12: Stub axels ......................................................................................................... 3

    Step 13: Brakes ........................................................................................................... 3

    Step 14: Welding ........................................................................................................... 3

    Step 15: Floor and chain guard ................................................................................................ 3

    Step 16: Assembly ......................................................................................................... 3

    Step 17: Steering arms ...................................................................................................... 4

    Step 18: The little stuff ....................................................................................................... 4

    Step 19: Testing ........................................................................................................... 4

    Step 20: Fitting racing bodywork ............................................................................................... 4

    Step 21: Strip down ......................................................................................................... 4

    Step 22: Paint ............................................................................................................. 4

    Step 23: Reassemble ....................................................................................................... 5

    Step 24: Racing Photos ...................................................................................................... 5

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 5

    Advertisements ............................................................................................................... 5

    Comments ................................................................................................................ 5

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    Author:liquidhandwash

    Fixer, Finder, Fabricator.

    Intro: How to design and build a go kart.Hello everyone this Instructable is a collaboration of nine year 10 engineering students work. Their task is to work as a team to research, design and build a go kart,using sound engineering principals. As this is a student project the frame must be kept as simple as possible, so that students can build the kart with minimal tools, anwith in the time frame allocated.

    This Instructable has lots of photos with notes, just run your cursor over the box on most photos to make the text pop up

    Go-karts must have!

    BrakesThrottleBumpers to stop the rear wheels coming into contact with another kart.Chain must be able to be adjusted.Standard off the shelf parts must be used.Toe in and chain must be able to be adjusted.Chain guardNo sharp edgesCorrect steering geometry

    Members of the team

    o_-iTz MonkeehHDinosaurQuartz476WILLBA55lincspencerBrinkEdgePc_NOODLES

    http://member/liquidhandwash/http://member/liquidhandwash/
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    Image Notes1. little go kart built for 4 year olds, also useful for research into full size kart

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    Step 1:Stuff you will needThe first thing you need to do is to gather all the parts, as it makes it much easier to design if you can lay out all the parts where they will be on the kart and kind of "jothe dots"....

    Materials you will need:25 or 30mm Square SteelAluminum Sheet 1.6mm thick19mm and 25mm Steel Tubing25mm solid30mm bright solid (If you want to make your rear axle)13mm tube or pipe.lots of 6mm and 8mm nuts and bolts

    Parts you will need: (Screen shot are includes as the ebay links can go dead)

    Axel (You can find these second hand on eBay for about $50 or new for $150 - $200)30mm hubsSprocket or disc carriersprockets chain and clutchMechanical Brake Caliper With Brake Pads & CableGo Kart Brake DiscSelf Align Pillow Block Bearing 30mm4 Wheels(These can be quite expensive, new and second hand. A used set can cost you up to and over $100 on eBay)4 Tires (You can find these on eBay, a new set can cost up to and over $300, but if you get a used set they can cost less than $100 or free)Steering Wheel(You can get a cheap second hand wheel for about $20 on eBay)Seat (You can use any seat you can find but we are using a fiberglass seat. You can get one on eBay for about $40)Engine(We are using a mower engine which you can off an old mower or look on eBay for a few dollars)

    Tools we used.

    Drill press

    Metal LatheTap and dieHack sawGrinderMIG welderCordless drillRoller

    Image Notes1. Back Wheel2. Seat

    3. Steering Wheel

    4. Front Wheels5. Engine and Sprocket6. Axel7. Wheel Hubs8. Sprocket and sprocket mount9. Axel Mounts10. Disk Brake and Disk Brake Mount

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-5HP-Petrol-Engine-OHV-Stationary-Motor-4-Stroke-Horizontal-Shaft-Recoil-Start-/261416440096?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Farming_Agriculture_Farming_Agriculture_Equipment&hash=item3cdda25120http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fibre-glass-moulded-Go-Kart-Seat-size-XL-/321261085933?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acca724edhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GOKART-STEERING-WHEEL-GOOD-STRONG-WHEEL-FUN-KART-ORB-WHEEL-/251292838975?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a82386c3fhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Axle-Mounted-Ball-Self-Align-Pillow-Block-Bearing-30mm-UCP206-/150963848077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item232625838dhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Axle-Mounted-Ball-Self-Align-Pillow-Block-Bearing-30mm-UCP206-/150963848077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item232625838dhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Go-Kart-Brake-Disc-Budget-Priced-Funkart-Hire-Kart-116mm-I-D-218mm-O-D-/310735171888?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4859427130http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Go-Kart-KSI-Mechanical-Brake-Caliper-With-Brake-Pads-Cable-/181337482522?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a388e651ahttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Go-Kart-12-Clutch-Chain-AND-Sprocket-35-Pitch-Choice-of-53-84T-Sprocket-CCSC3512-/261439770892?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdf06510chttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Disc-Carrier-for-30mm-Axle-with-6-8mm-Keyways-Go-Kart-Hub-/370604668007?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5649c27467https://core-electronics.com.au/store/index.php/stripboard-large.html/?acc=37693cfc748049e45d87b8c7d8b9aacd
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    Step 2:Steering GeometryGetting the steering geometry correct on your Kart is one of the most important consideration when designing the frame. If you don't get it right you Kart will not turn buplough straight ahead. Unlike a car the rear wheels do not have a differential but are locked together and always spin at the same speed, this requires some cleaverengineering to make the inside rear wheel lift of the ground when turning and allowing the front of the kart to turn in.

    Understeer happens when the front of a car tends to go straight on when you turn the wheel into a corner. You can feel the tires scrubbing against the tarmac. Mostmodern cars are front wheel drive and they tend to understeer. Its inherently quite safe, as the speed is scrubbed off, and as long as theres enough road, the t ires wieventually grip and turn the car the way you want!

    OversteerThis happens when the back end of the car slides away from the direction of the turn. Rear wheel drive cars are much more prone to this. Its less safe than understeebecause it can be the prelude to a spin, and suddenly lifting off the power (which is a natural reaction) can actually cause the spin as they tires bite. Cars like thePorsche 911, where the weight is all behind the back axle are prone to this.

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    Camber

    Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to vertical, as viewed from the front or the rear of the car. If the wheel leans in towards the chassis, it has negative camber; ifleans away from the car, it has positive camber. so on a Go Kart it should be 0. in the middle of both positive and negative.

    Caster

    Positive caster angle is best illustrated by the rearward tilt of the steering fork on a bicycle. Positive caster obviously places the front wheel ahead of i ts pivot point andmost vehicles are designed with positive caster angle. Its defined as the angle created by the steering's pivot point from the front to back of the vehicle. Caster ispositive if the line is angled forward, and negative if backward.The Kingpins on a kart should be laid back at the top 12-15 degrees

    Toe out on turnsWhen the vehicle negotiates a curve, the inner wheel turns more sharply and while the wheels remain in this position, the wheels will toe out, and will return to the corr

    toe in when the the steering wheel is returned to the straight ahead position. This is achieved by angling the steering arms toward the center of the rear axle this will coin step 12

    Wheel Jacking

    Wheel Jacking or Weight Jacking is related to the caster and the kingpin inclination, which controls the ability to turn and lift the inside back wheel off the groundaccording to which way you turn. Having a solid rear axle causes the wheels to spin at the same rate, so you need the inside rear wheel to lift off the ground whichenables the kart able to go around corners.

    K.P.I.The kingpin inclination angle, together with the caster angle, creates the phenomena of the return of the wheels to straight position after a steering operation, it also teto maintain this position after an impact with an obstacle that attempts to alter the trajectory,

    Set upSo you will need 10 degress KPI and 12-15 caster we will show you how to set this up in step 9. If you plan to make your own stub axles you will need to make sure ththe camber is set up a 0 degrees and the ackerman angle is correct. this will be covered in step 12

    Image Notes1. Wheel Jacking

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    Image Notes1. The go Kart should be set up with the wheels going up and down.0 Camber

    Image Notes1. the inside wheel has to turn more than the outside wheel as it travels a smallerarc

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    Image Notes1. Note that the steering arms point toward the center of the rear axle

    Step 3:Designing the frameThis is the design that we did for the go kart we got the distant of the wheels (wheel base and Track) from a internet deign of a go kart. We based the frame off previougo karts and scaled model go kart. We are making the frame out of 30mm square tubing and 25mm round tubing and 19mm round tubing for seat supports and thesteering column just to make it easier to work with.

    So few things to consider, first the wheel base and track need to be approximately the same as a race kart, so 1040mm wheel base, and around 680mm betwethe king pins. This will give us the best handling kart as most race kart are pretty close to that size.The front wheels need space to move as they steer, you don't want a tire rubbing on the frame.Multiple bend are difficult to make so keep the frame a simple as possibleThe rear axile is likely to bend if the bearings are too far from the wheels, make the frame wide at the back.Four stroke engines a wider than race kart engines and are difficult to f it on the side of the kartThe chain has to be able to be adjustedThe rest of the design it up to you as long as everything fits (including the driver) and the kart looks good the rest of the measurements are not that important athis stageIt is useful to draw everything full size on a workbench and lay all the part and driver out so you can kind of "join the dots"

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    The driver is the most important part, so the driving position should be comfortable and the top of the steering wheel around shoulder height arms and legs sligbentThe steering angles have to be correct but more on that later.

    Image Notes1. Class whiteboard sketch

    Image Notes1. A good way to start the design is to gett all the parts first

    Image Notes1. This deign has too may bends and would be very difficult to make

    Image Notes

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    Image Notes1. Again too complicated but has some great info. wheel base, track, width andother measurements which we used.

    1. Hard to see but first draft of the design is drawn on the bench

    Image Notes1. Full size design is drawn on plywood

    Image Notes1. Now the parts can be cut and placed on top

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    Image Notes1. Blocks of wood are then screwed to the plywood to stop each part movingaround

    Step 4:Frame JigThe Jig for the frame is very important, it holds all your frame parts so they don't move and keeps every thing flat, straight and square.Fortunately a jig is not to difficult to make, You just need a sheet of plywood or MDF, some small blocks of wood and some screws.

    Start by drawing a center line down the middle of the sheet and use that line for all your measurements and angles.Draw your kart frame full size, and put your motor, seat, axles, pedals and driver on the board as well to check everything is going to fit.Its much easier to change the drawing now that change the frame later on.Once you have checked and rechecked that the drawing is correct, you can start cutting steel and laying it on top of the drawing.We decided to put the engine behind the rear axle which is an unusual design but works really wellThe engine mount can be made with four 30mm square tubes. We used four 9mm dri lls as spaces so the engine bolts slide between the tubes.It very important to then lock each piece into place with three blocks of wood so accurate measurements can be taken to cut other parts. This is especially helpif you have several people working on the project, as they can see what is missing and a quick measure and they can go away and cut that part

    Image Notes1. The driver is the most important part so make sure he fits

    Image Notes1. We decided to put the engine behind the rear axle which is an unusual designbut works really well

    Image Notes1. draw everything full size.

    Image Notes1. Work off a table there is no need to crawl around on the floor

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    Image Notes1. now you can start measuring the parts

    Image Notes1. Place each piece on top of the design

    Image Notes1. Use blocks of wood to hold the parts in place

    Image Notes1. more blocks of wood

    Image Notes1. Get every part fasten down

    Image Notes1. double check everything fits

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    Image Notes1. The front axle tube is the most difficult thing to get right2. The engine mount can be made with four 30mm square tubes

    Image Notes1. The engine mount bolts slide between the rails. The drill bits are used asspaces

    Image Notes1. Any mistakes or gaps need to be filled with metal

    Image Notes1. The axle tube has to fit nicely into the king pins

    Image Notes1. The axle tube needs to have a cut out for the kingpin to fit into

    Image Notes1. Every part need to fit before welding can start. Note the bumper is been use asa jig

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    Image Notes1. Centre Dril bit

    Image Notes1. Its important to use a center drill first

    Image Notes1. 8mm drill bit

    Image Notes1. Then each end needs to be faced

    Image Notes1. Engineering drawing in prodesktop

    Image Notes1. 3D design in pro desktop

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    2. Engineering drawing in prodesktop

    Step 6:Steering BushBy BrinkEgde

    We are making the Steering Bush for our class Go Kart. We are using the program PTC to recreate the Steering Bush with a 3D printer.After making the steering bush, you will have to remove scaffold on the steering bush and f ile the holes slightly because the 3D printer make the holes about 1 or 2 %undersize.if you don't have access to a 3D printer the steering bush are quite cheap to buy you could try ebay or a karting store. There are a few different styles and they generacome in 2 different shaft sizes, 19mm 20mm. So check you have correct size tube and steering hub so everything fits together

    Image Notes1. I (BrinkEdge) and HDinosaur, are going to recreate this steering bush usingPTC and a 3D printer.

    Image Notes1. It took us a little while, but with help from the teacher, we mangage to recreatthe steering bush on PTC

    Image Notes1. A different angle of the PTC steering bush

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GO-KART-STEERING-COLLAR-COMPLETE-WITH-BOLT-NUT-AND-WASHERS-/301136128051?pt=AU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461d1ca833
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    Image Notes1. A nice view of our plastic sterring bush.2. A nice view of our plastic steering bush.

    Image Notes1. finished product

    Image Notes1. You will have too file the small hole out, because the 3D printer fills it up

    Image Notes1. This is what it looks like before you take off the excess plastic

    File Downloads

    steering pivot.stl(316 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'steering pivot.stl']

    http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FNW/3CMH/HJZ85J0S/FNW3CMHHJZ85J0S.stl?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=fileshttp://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FNW/3CMH/HJZ85J0S/FNW3CMHHJZ85J0S.stl?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=fileshttp://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FNW/3CMH/HJZ85J0S/FNW3CMHHJZ85J0S.stl?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=fileshttp://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FNW/3CMH/HJZ85J0S/FNW3CMHHJZ85J0S.stl?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=files
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    Step 7:Steering ColumnThe steering column was rather easy to make, it was just a litt le bit difficult to get the measurements correct. It took around three hours to make and around half an hoto shape and put the holes in it . Below is a screen shot of how much a Go kart Steering column would cost brand new on eBay.

    We drilled the holes in it with a drill press set on a low speed. Once the holes were done we started cutting it into its basic shape just by putting it in a vice andusing a hacksaw.We were pretty much finished, all we had to do now was get a file and curve the edges so it looked better. The Steering Arm was now finished and ready to beonto the steering column.The steering column is just a piece of 19mm tube with a bolt welded in the bottom, make it longer than you need as you can always cut it down when you fit thesteering wheelWe used a drill press as a jig to hold everything straight while welding.

    Image Notes1. Measurements and shape of steering arm.

    Image Notes1. Cost of a new steering column on Ebay

    Image Notes1. 19mm Hole saw was used on a low speed with lots of lube

    Image Notes1. Then the shape was cut out with a hacksaw

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    Image Notes1. The basic shape

    Image Notes1. Just a bit more filing needed

    Image Notes1. Steering arm on the column

    Image Notes1. Getting the bolt into place

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    Image Notes1. Drill press being used as a jig, steering column NOT parallel to the post

    Image Notes1. Welding a bolt into end of steering column, using the drill press as jig

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    Image Notes1. Drill press being used as a jig, steering column parallel to the post

    Step 8:Steering hubThe steering hub is the part connecting the steering column and steering wheel. We are making ours out of a chunk of aluminum, but if you are unable to make it theyfor on ebay steering hub. The steering hub was made on a lathe out of a cast piece of aluminum, and do take a bit of time to make.A few pointer to success,

    Go kart steering columns come in two diameters 19mm and 20mm. so make sure your steering bush and tube are the right size before you start.We used the steering wheel as a jig to get the mounting holes in the correct place.Mark the location of the first hole and use a 5 mm drill and 6mm tap to put a thread in the hubBolt the steering wheel on and use a 6 mm drill to mark the center of the other 2 holes.You can then drill the other 2 holes 5mm and tap them with a 6mm tap.One side of the steering hub has a large hole in it. this is so the head of the cap screw tightens up on the tube not the hub. This has the effect of slightly crushithe tube inside the hub and making a tight fit that does not come lose.The hub can be removed by removing the cap screw.

    Image Notes

    Image Notes1. Able to find on Ebay :D

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Go-Kart-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Merlin-Racing-Gold-Anodized-Aluminum-/221351495715?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item338993c823
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    1. The fisihed product. It has some tape on it to protect the polished finish.

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    Image Notes1. Piece of Cast aluminum.

    Image Notes1. Face the end to start with

    Image Notes1. If the steering wheel has a hole in the center, a locating pin will center thesteering wheel

    Image Notes1. The steering wheel in for a test fit

    Image Notes1. The hub is turned around an dri lled from the back

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    Image Notes1. The final shape roughed out

    Image Notes1. Aluminum polishes up quite nice.

    Image Notes1. mark the center of the hole with a 6mm drill

    Image Notes1. You can then drill the hole 5mm (ignore the sharpie marks)

    Image Notes1. Now tap the first hole

    Image Notes1. You can then bolt the steering wheel on and mark out the other holes with a 6mm drill

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    Image Notes1. You can then drill and tap the other 2 holes

    Step 9:King pin JigsSetting up the king pin angles is themostimportant part of building your kart, No matter how good your kart looks, if it wont go around corners, it will not be any fun.

    Just cut your self 2 plates and drill 4 holes so that they can be screwed down to your frame jig. Then weld an 8mm bright steel rod to your plate making sure yoget the 2 angles right.K.P.I. or king pin inclination is the angle that the top of the rod leans in toward the center of the f rame and should be 10 degrees.The caster angle lean the rod back towards the back of the frame and should be 12-15 degrees.These two jigs are a mirror image of each other so make sure you mark them left and right. The can be quite difficult to get the angles right, so spend a bit of tichecking that they are correct, so you don't end up with a kart that doesn't turn one way properly or wants to drive in circles when you let the steering wheel go

    Many first time builders have told me that my steering angles don't look right, trust me they look a little weird the first time you see them but if you weld the kingpins onstraight up and down your kart will not turn or steer.You will find two drawings that you can download and print out which will help you to get the angles right if you don't have a protractor.

    Image Notes

    1. 10 degrees in at the top

    Image Notes

    1. 15 degrees toward the back at the top

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    File Downloads

    Preview of 15 degress.bmp.pdf (23 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Preview of 15 degress.bmp.pdf']

    Preview of 10 degress.bmp.pdf (22 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Preview of 10 degress.bmp.pdf']

    Step 10:Fun with tubeWe used 25mm OD tube for the front and rear bumpers and 19 mm OD for the top bumper mount, seat mount, steering column and steering column mounts. Using atube bender can be a little tricky, you have to remember that each bend has a beginning and an end and it uses up material as you bend it. So it is a good Idea to rem

    the die from the machine and lay it on your Jig to give yourself a better idea of where the tube will lay after it is bent. Also cut more tube than you think you will need asyou can always cut a bit of each end to get it to fit.

    The first bend is easy, its the second one on the same tube that you realy need to think about.Make sure you think about where the bend starts, as Ive lots of students bend the second curve in the wrong place and the bumpers end up too wide. (By thesame distance as the width of the die)To get the two bends exactly the same angle and length it can be useful to draw around the bumper and then flip it over, as it give you a great visual on thesymmetry of the part your making.Another tip is if you over bend the tube and need to straighten i t a few degrees give the bend good smack on a concrete floor (it works surprisingly well)The end of the 19mm tube can be crushed in a press and drilled to use for seat and steering column mounts. Just remember to round of the sharp edges as it rip trough a go kart seat or your leg if left with those sharp corners on them.

    Image Notes1. The first bend is easy just get the angle right. The second bend is far moredifficult Mark out where the bend begins

    Image Notes1. Make sure the tube is in the bender flat or you will end up with a twistedbumper

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    Image Notes1. Marking the bench like this is a good way to check the angle and length of eachbend

    Image Notes1. Just flip the tube over and you can see if the angle and length are the sam

    Image Notes1. if the tube is over bent you can straighten it by wacking it on the floor as shown

    Image Notes1. The seat can be mounted with tubes that have one end crushed

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    Image Notes1. Just crush the end of the tube in a press or big vice

    Image Notes1. The ends can then be drilled and sharp edges removed

    Image Notes1. You can probably skip this step

    Step 11:PedalsThe pedals are made out of 13mm steel pipe and were heated by a Oxy acetylene gas plant and bent into shape. We copied a racing kart pedal, so they have a bend the upright to stop[ your foot from sliding off the side of the pedal. The pedals are a mirror image of each other, and have a piece of flat with holes for the brake andthrottle cable.

    The holes allow you to adjust the way the brake and throttle responds, as you can have a very hard brake pedal (when adjusted to the top hole ) or a soft brakpedal if the cable is fitted to the lower holes.If you don't have a pedal to copy, you can use a piece of wire to create a template then you can have custom pedal to match your foot.The 2 bends are 90 and 135 degrees.Use a piece of pipe as a handle when bending your tube.Care need to be taken so the tube bends without collapsing. Heat the tube all the way around and move the heat along the tube as you bend.

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    Image Notes1. Go kart pedal from a factory

    Image Notes1. Using the pedal as a template.

    Image Notes1. Use a pipe as a handle.

    Image Notes1. Carefully heat all the way around

    Image Notes1. Use your pedal or wire template to get the angle right

    Image Notes1. Nearly finished bending

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    Image Notes1. Make sure to use gloves, its hot

    Image Notes1. the tag on the side can be used as a pedal stop

    Image Notes1. A piece of tube can be used for the pivot

    Image Notes1. The two pedals are a mirror image of each other

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    Step 12:Stub axelsYou can make your own stub axles, or buy them ready made. It is much easier to make them in four pieces as shown in the the photo and use the stub axle jig, the kinpin and the wheel to hold the parts in place while welding. On our kart we drilled a hole in the end of the axle, tapped a 10mm thread and used a bolt to fasten the wheon.

    When welding use the wheel without a t ire as a jig, it should sit flat on the bench when the wheel is in the straight ahead position.The angles will look a little strange (not square) , this is normal.The two steering arms should be welded on last, with the holes from the kingpin, and end of the steering arm forming and imaginary line to the center of the reaxleThe drawings have all the dimensions you need

    Image Notes1. all the parts required to make one stub axle

    Image Notes1. Turn the stub in a lathe the drawings have all the measurements you need

    Image Notes1. Tap a thread in the end of the stub

    Image Notes1. You will need to make 2

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    Image Notes1. The king pin will help hold everything while you weld

    Image Notes1. Use the stub axle jig, the king pin and the wheel to hold the parts in place

    Image Notes1. We use blocks of wood to hold the wheel straight. Also the stub was cut on anangle so that it is easier to weld (no gaps)

    Image Notes1. Tack everything into place. Note the left and right stubs are a mirror imageof each other

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    Image Notes1. Note that the steering arms point toward the center of the rear axle

    Image Notes1. Final check over

    Image Notes1. ready to be removed from the jig and fully welded

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    Step 13:Brakes

    We used a cable brake caliper designed for use on cheap go karts, fun karts or buggies. The mount doesn't take long to make, and has to be strong enough to keep thbrake caliper straight and take a far amount of abuse. It also needs to have a hole in the middle so the brake pad adjustment screw can be access.

    We used a large hole saw on the drill press on its lowest speed to cut the large hole.Use cutting fluid or lubricant on the hole saw to keep it cool or it will rip all the teeth off as it over heats.The two mounting holes are 80mm apart between centersWe used 100mm x 6mm flat mild steelThe corners are cut off for safety and it also looks better than having the end square.Don't weld the mount on until after the the axle and brake disc is bolted on.

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    Image Notes1. Drill press with hole saw. The steel is clamped to a piece of wood

    Image Notes1. Use lot of lube to keep the saw cool

    Image Notes1. Cuts through like butter

    Image Notes1. The two 8mm holes are 80mm apart

    Image Notes1. Cutting the corners off will make it look better and will stop you cutting yourselfon the sharp corners

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    Step 14:WeldingWe are using a MIG to weld our go kart together as they are a very quick welder there a lot quicker than and ark welder, and you don't have knock the slag off after yofinished welding.

    If you have never done any welding before it is worthwhile getting a few hours practice before you start welding the f rame. Before you start make sure all the pfit, if you have any large gaps either cut a small piece to fill in the hole or cut a new piece of steel.This is not a project you want to learn to weld on, if the kart falls in half while your driving it would no be dangerous but also hilarious.It is really important that you tack the whole frame together and check that everything is straight and square.Use the seat as a jig by bolting the the supports to the seat and tacking them in place. The seat can then be removedDon't weld the brake caliper or the arm on the steering column until the rest of the kart is assembled.

    Image Notes1. If you need to learn to weld practice on some scrap not your kart frame

    Image Notes1. spark are fun.... when they go in your shorts!

    Image Notes1. Tack the whole frame together first

    Image Notes1. Flip the kart over and tack some more

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    Image Notes1. Big gaps like this need to be filled with a piece of metal before welding

    Image Notes1. The engine mount bolts slide between the rails. The drill bits are used asspaces

    Image Notes1. Tack weld everything

    Image Notes1. The seat can be used as a j ig

    Image Notes1. Its worth giving everything a final check that it fits while its tacked together

    Image Notes1. Make sure the nut behind the wheel also still fits

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    Image Notes1. looks like it all good to fully weld

    Image Notes1. Once everything is tacked and checked the seat can be removed and the wholkart welded up fully

    Step 15:Floor and chain guardYou kart will need a floor so weld in some tabs so i t can be bolted on with 6mm bolts and nylock nuts. The floor and chain guard are made with 1.2mm thick aluminiumsheet, and is left unpainted as the paint would soon wear off near the pedals as your shoes rub against it, and aluminium looks cool anyway.

    You will need 10 or 12 tabs and 6mm bolts, with nylock nutsThe tabs are made from 25mm x 3 m flatMake sure you round off the ends or as the sharp corners will cut and crack the floor.The Kart frame can be layed on top of the aluminium sheet and traced around with a sharpie to get the shape of the floor.It can then be cut out with a nibbler. Again look out for those sharp bits.

    Image Notes1. Checking the floor tabs

    Image Notes1. The tabs are just a bit flat with a 6mm hole and rounded off at one end

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    Image Notes1. welding on the floor tabs

    Image Notes1. cutting out the the floor with a nibbler

    Step 16:AssemblyIn this step we made sure that everything fits probably and finished off the welding and assembled the motor and axle. One of the things we should of documented a bbetter is how to build the rear axle, But it is one of the easiest parts of the kart so you shouldn't have any problems with it. We used 1meter of 30m solid bright mild steand fitted the sprocket, brake disc bearing and wheel hubs. We then fitted this to the kart and slid the sprocket and brake disc to the correct positions. The axle then h

    these position marked and it was then sent off to a machine shop to have the key-ways cut in the shaft.The position of the can be changed a little forward or back to fit the driver.

    The axle and engine must be straight and square when fitted.

    The floor and seat can be fitted.

    Keep the chain as short as possible.

    The engine need to be fitted with large washers under the frame.

    One of the last things to weld on is the brake caliper mount. Use the caliper and disc as a jig, and put a spacer under the caliper while welding to keep the spaon the brake pads correct.Use a cable tie to hold the brake pads tight on the disc, this will ensure the caliper is straight, the mount can now be tacked in place

    Image Notes1. Checking everything fits

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    Image Notes1. checking the pedals are a good length and are in a good postion

    Image Notes1. I see crazy people

    Image Notes1. Axle assembly

    Image Notes1. everything getting bolted on

    Image Notes1. Most major parts fitted

    Image Notes1. Bumpers on

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    Image Notes1. Almost all done

    Image Notes1. Chains on

    Image Notes1. Make sure the engine has large flat washers under the frame

    Image Notes1. Use the caliper and the disc as a jig

    Image Notes1. As spacer will stop the caliper from rubbing on the disc

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    Image Notes1. The cable tie holds the caliper pads tight on the disc, the mount can now betacked in place

    Step 17:Steering armsThe steering arms are made from thick walled 1/2 inch tube with bolts welded into each end. They are not too difficult to make but they need to be the correct length athe bolts need to welded on perfectly straight. If you are able to buy two left hand threaded bolts and nuts, put a left and a right hand threaded bolt on each end, and y

    will be able to adjust the toe in with out removing the steering arms.Unfortunately we could not find any left hand threaded bolts locally, so to adjust the toe in, one end of the steering arm has to be disconnected.

    First bolt the rod ends to the kart and screw the adjustment bolts in half way into the rod ends.With the wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centered carefully measure the length of of tube needed .Also move the arm on the steering column up or down so that the pivot points on each stub axle and the steering column are in a straight line.

    Both tubes should be the same length, if you have a tube cutting or lathe i t will be easy to get the ends nice a square.We used a drill press to hold the bolt straight and tack welded it into placeRepeat on all four ends and check everything is straight and the right length (test fit on the kart) before fully wielding.

    Image Notes

    1. If you can get two left hand thread rod ends nuts and bolts put one on eachsteering arm.

    Image Notes

    1. Measure the tubes with the rod end bolted on and the bolt wound in about haway. Make sure the the wheels are straight ahead, and the arm on the steeringcolumn is centered

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    Image Notes1. Also move the arm on the steering column up or down so that the pivot pointson each stub axle and the steering column are in a straight line.

    Image Notes1. Using the drill press as a jig

    Image Notes1. The bolt needs to be perfectly straight

    Image Notes1. this arm can be tack welded when everything is straght

    Image Notes1. Final checks before welding

    Image Notes1. Try and keep the pivot points as straight as possible

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    Step 18:The little stuffIts the little stuff that can be quite time consuming, Attaching the pedals in the correct spot, pedal stops, making the steering arms, cable holders, fit ting the steering wto the correct height and attaching the brake can be fiddly.

    A throttle cable can be connected to the governor arm. We used a bicycle brake cable and a screw down electrical connector with the plastic removed.

    The steering wheel can be bolted on The cap screw crushes the tube inside the hub, to give it a tight fit .

    Image Notes1. The steering hub can now be bolted on

    Image Notes1. The cap screw crushes the tube inside the hub

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    Step 19:TestingOur first run went really well, the only things that were a slight worry was that a small screw came loose underneath the steering wheel and the back wheel slid slightlydown the axle so nothing disastrous happened and nothing came off. For a first run, we couldn't of asked for a better go. The kart reached up to 40 km/h so it went reawell.

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    Step 20:Fitting racing bodyworkThis wont make your kart go any faster but it makes it look faster. We got the body work from an online store and for around $190 you have got to as yourself is it wortit? Well it looks cool but thats about it.The front bumper simply clips on as it has the same mounts as the old bumper, but brackets have to be made for the side pods and front panel.Not to difficult but the two side pods will have to be mounted exactly the same distance from the back wheel and the same height and angle or your eye will pick it asbeen "wrong"

    Make sure the karts tires are pumped up or sit the frame on blocks so the side pods are the same height from the ground.Don't weld anything until all the parts are made and fit correctly

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    Step 21:Strip downAt this stage the Kart has been tested and it preformed well and no modifications are needed, so we are going to strip it down and get it ready to paint. It is also a goodopportunity to check that all the welds have been done properly, grind off any sharp edges, and give everything a good clean and check over.On our kart someone did a very poor job of cutting the bars for the side pods, so some tube was cut to fill in the gaps so it could be welded properly.

    It a good idea to put all the parts and the bolts that go with them, into containers and label everything to make it easier to assemble.The frame must be cleaned with a solvent to remove any oil or grease and given a quick sand to help the paint "key" to the surface of the steel.Go kart frames are quite difficult to paint as there are lot of difficult angles so make sure to check that you haven't missed spots before packing up the spray guGive the paint time to harden up before assembling I recommend a couple days sitting in the hot sun.

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    Step 22:PaintPainting a gokart frame is is quite difficult as there are so many tubes and funny angles for you to miss. Even hanging the frame up to paint, is not going to cut it as theis always something thats not painted. I recommend painting everything you can see and fliping the frame over, even if you have it hanging from wires. We ended uppainting the bottom side first on a table then flipping the frame over, as it was easier than trying to paint it while hanging.There are a few tricks to using a spray gun as it has a number of adjustment, But first make sure you stir the paint and thin it correctly with the recommend thinners. Tpaint can will usually tell you what % to thin your paint for spraying.

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    Step 24:Racing PhotosWe were lucky enough to get to a few hours at a race track, and the Kart preformed really well, despite the photos due to a crappy camera! Even thought the kart hasonly four horse power, it was more than enough to spin out in the corners if your not careful. The wheels didnt fall off and there were not mechanical problems on theday.

    The Students had a great time and one kid said "I never thought the drive a kart could be so much fun"!.... then she went a did another 50 laps.

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    Comments

    37 comments Add Comment

    knoakessays: Jun 29, 2014. 3:24 AM REPGreat instructable...well done team and what a cool school project!

    Pc_NOODLESsays: Jun 10, 2014. 4:43 PM REPVery well made, if i dont say so myself :) congrats to the whole team

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 18, 2014. 4:01 PM REPThanks Hugh , you guys did all the work

    spylocksays: Jun 18, 2014. 1:29 PM REPNice cart,I use to drive as a sub at a lit tle cart track in Ashland VA;It is,or was a pretty fast track,and you have something there as to where you can have alot of fun,be careful,and good job.

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    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-design-and-build-a-go-kart/

    clazmansays: Jun 10, 2014. 10:17 PM REPGreat result! The team did a nice job!

    One complaint I have is that CAD (or a "hand" drawing) doesn't appear to have been used. It would been a great help in eliminating many of the guessingsituations, for instance the use of the reverse engineering of using the steering wheel geometry to locate the holes in the steering hub.. However, the sevejigs mentioned did indicate the group's awareness for control of geometry. Again, CAD would have helped in their design.

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 10, 2014. 10:47 PM REPEvery time i build a kart with the kids, the design is different, some have had the engine on the side, most have the engine in front of the axle and behinthe seat. This one the engine is behind the axle, so the design is drawn full size on plywood. Ive build around 50 karts with kids, and i found this is themost reliable way to get a good result, in the t ime i have avalable. Unfortunately a great looking drawing, sometimes doesn't mean a great kart, many othe plans off the web are just rubbish.

    User1says: Jun 10, 2014. 1:44 PM REP+1

    Great job on this guys! I hope everyone that was involved with the project f it in it and was able to drive it. Hope you can post a video.

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 10, 2014. 6:06 PM REPthanks, every on was able to fit , a couple of shorty's had to stretch for the pedals

    hix1214says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:12 AM REP

    Did you get a 2 or 4 cycle engine

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 10, 2014. 6:05 PM REPIt a 4 cycles 4 hp brigs and stration

    BikeHackersays: Jun 10, 2014. 6:54 AM REPHow fast does it go?

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 10, 2014. 6:04 PM REParound 50 kph

    hix1214says: Jun 10, 2014. 7:10 AM REPIf more people would race like me.

    wav640says: Jun 10, 2014. 4:53 AM REPNice explained.

    nodcahsays: Jun 9, 2014. 10:11 AM REPVoted! This a beautifully documented ible! Really well done! :-)

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 9, 2014. 3:50 PM REP

    thank you

    Kirkthepyrosays: Jun 9, 2014. 6:00 AM REPYou can acquire wheels for $5 each if you know where to look. I suggest you look in Harbor Freight's online catalog or store before building this. steeringwheels can be found cheaper at a local junkyard, because you can haggle over prices. Many other items listed here can be found much cheaper if you thincreatively. If you don't have the tools, Harbor Freight sells those cheaply, too.

    liquidhandwashsays: Jun 9, 2014. 3:50 PM REPwe don't have a harbor freight in Australia , but your right you can get tht e parts cheap if you look hard enogh

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  • 8/10/2019 How to Design and Build a Go Kart

    55/55

    Tarun Upadhyayasays: Jun 9, 2014. 8:44 AM REPBrilliant work :), great instructions.

    doodlecraftsays: Jun 9, 2014. 5:13 AM REPAmazing! Great step by step!

    motoringsays: May 8, 2014. 3:22 AM REPThe Kart is excellent a great instructable

    liquidhandwashsays: May 8, 2014. 2:45 PM REPThanks keith

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