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How to Fix Kanger EVOD Leaking-gurgling Issues Deus Ex Va

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Deus Ex Vaporis GOD OF STEAM Home Why I do this Introduction to Vaping UPDATE: This apparently works equally well with the Kanger Protank, and other Kanger BCCs with the silicone caps on the atomizer heads. If you’re having issues with those leaking or gurgling, you may want to give this a shot. A while back I ordered a couple of Kanger EVODs because I wanted something slim for my on the go kit, and the Protank mini was not yet available (I now have two on their way to me). I’d heard nothing but good things about them, and figured that since they can use the same heads as the Protank, I’d only have to keep one type of head on hand. They are a great vape. Until they leak/gurgle. At first I thought it was because I was vaping in +100F temperatures, but even in my 72F house, once I got below about 1/2 a tank the gurgling would start. Then the leaking starts. Ok look, a quarter ml of juice sitting on top of my battery. Lovely. At first I thought the problem was with the head. I swapped out the head with a new one from a different package. No dice, exact same problem. I looked at the bottom of the unit, and the leak was coming through the bottom of the positive contact pin. That precludes the base to head fit being the issue (since the area where they mate was pretty dry). I thought, well maybe I just got a defective unit. These things are mass produced in China after all, it happens. I tried the other unopened EVOD. Same result. Grrr. So I took to the internets. Didn’t really find anything. I found a couple of people complaining about leaking, and others having no issues at all. I deduce from the number of posts I found where people are warning about gurgling after half empty (and saying that just topping off fixes it), that this is a common problem. I saw multiple comments saying that the juice level dropping below a certain point breaks the vacuum in the tank and causes the gurgling (I also experienced what I would call flooding). I know a little bit about fluid dynamics, and while it sounds good in theory, I’m not convinced that this is the problem. See the fact that there is a hole running through the bottom of the atomizer head into the unsealed battery connection kind of precludes a true vacuum from being present, it’s more of a surface tension effect at that point (but that’s kind of nitpicking). Still, with the viscosity of the juice, and the wick sitting across the top of the hole, and the size of the hole, it should work. So I disassembled one. How To: Fix Kanger EVOD leaking/gurgling issues 46 How To: Fix Kanger EVOD leaking/gurgling issues | Deus Ex Vaporis 12/16/2013 http://godofsteam.wordpress.com/2013/07/12/how-to-fix-kanger-evod-leakinggurgling-issues/ 1 / 12
Transcript
Page 1: How to Fix Kanger EVOD Leaking-gurgling Issues Deus Ex Va

Deus Ex VaporisGOD OF STEAM

Home Why I do this Introduction to Vaping

UPDATE: This apparently works equally well with the Kanger Protank, and other Kanger BCCs with the siliconecaps on the atomizer heads. If you’re having issues with those leaking or gurgling, you may want to give this ashot.

A while back I ordered a couple of Kanger EVODs because I wanted something slim for my on the go kit, and theProtank mini was not yet available (I now have two on their way to me).

I’d heard nothing but good things about them, and figured that since they can use the same heads as theProtank, I’d only have to keep one type of head on hand.

They are a great vape. Until they leak/gurgle.

At first I thought it was because I was vaping in +100F temperatures, but even in my 72F house, once I gotbelow about 1/2 a tank the gurgling would start. Then the leaking starts.

Ok look, a quarter ml of juice sitting on top of my battery. Lovely.

At first I thought the problem was with the head. I swapped out the head with a new one from a differentpackage. No dice, exact same problem.

I looked at the bottom of the unit, and the leak was coming through the bottom of the positive contact pin. Thatprecludes the base to head fit being the issue (since the area where they mate was pretty dry).

I thought, well maybe I just got a defective unit. These things are mass produced in China after all, it happens. Itried the other unopened EVOD. Same result. Grrr.

So I took to the internets.

Didn’t really find anything. I found a couple of people complaining about leaking, and others having no issues atall. I deduce from the number of posts I found where people are warning about gurgling after half empty (andsaying that just topping off fixes it), that this is a common problem.

I saw multiple comments saying that the juice level dropping below a certain point breaks the vacuum in the tankand causes the gurgling (I also experienced what I would call flooding). I know a little bit about fluid dynamics,and while it sounds good in theory, I’m not convinced that this is the problem. See the fact that there is a holerunning through the bottom of the atomizer head into the unsealed battery connection kind of precludes a truevacuum from being present, it’s more of a surface tension effect at that point (but that’s kind of nitpicking). Still,with the viscosity of the juice, and the wick sitting across the top of the hole, and the size of the hole, it shouldwork.

So I disassembled one.

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click to enlarge

I was sure that either the wick or the press fit between the base and the chimney was the culprit.

When I pulled the chimney off, I thought I had found the culprit. The “flavor wicks” that are set on top of thewick with the coil on it in these things are tiny! It was like two little strands of wick, not even an entire wick.

So I looked in my box of parts, and decided to replace the flavor wicks with a single piece of 2.5mm silica (Iwanted to use 2mm, but I didn’t have any).

I trimmed the wick to fit, rinsed the whole thing off, filled the EVOD, and put everything back together.

Holy hell the vapor production improved ten fold! Well ok, that certainly had an effect, but did it fix the leak? Ittook me a while to get low enough in the tank to find out (if I had some 0mg nicotine juice I could have got theremuch quicker, but all I have is 24mg and 12mg at the moment). I got a hint of a gurgle, and then a mouth full ofjuice. Took the head off, and now there is like 3/4 of a ml of juice sitting on top of the battery.

Well it did much improve the juice intake.

So I took it all apart again. This time I paid very close attention to the press fit of the chimney and the base. Itwas pretty dry. I was thinking about the silicone cap and why it would be there. At first I thought it was there toseal the press fit, but looking at the press fit and how hard it is to pull the chimney off I don’t think that is it’ssole purpose. I think it is to seal the connection between the chimney and the stem inside the EVOD as well.

So I took a pair of tweezers and stuffed the cap on the stem inside the EVOD (it was essentially sitting upsidedown in relation to how it sits on the stem.

The ‘cup’ portion of the cap had to stretch a little bit to fit over the stem. Hmm. I wonder if the cap is just notthick enough to seal the gap between the bottom of the stem and the top of the atomizer head?

click to enlarge

So I flipped it over on the head. It looks like this:

click to enlarge

It doesn’t cover the press fit between the atomizer head and the base like this, but I have a back up plan if thisdoesn’t work.

I filled the EVOD up and installed the head with the silicone cap upside down, being careful to seat the cap overthe stem in the top of the EVOD before screwing it down all the way.

I went through an entire tank, down to where I could taste the wick drying out from lack of juice. No leak. It didgurgle a little bit, but I’m pretty sure that is because I let too much condensation build up inside the tip (I wasvaping with my mouth only and just immediately blowing it out as fast as I could because I wanted to get itdown to where it should gurgle and flood.

NOTE: I used the head that I had replaced the flavor wick with 2.5mm silica for these tests. That may have animpact on the results. I plan to do this with all my EVOD heads as the increased vapor production is great, but Iwill test it on the next one without doing so first. If that changes the results, I will note that here.

So why does this work?

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My theory is that the silicone cap isn’t there to cover the press fit at all (the press fit is tight enough that it’snot going to leak from there). It is there to seal the gap between the chimney and the stem on the inside of theEVOD.

As I mentioned earlier, these things are mass produced in China, and due to the fairly intricate nature of thedesign and the small size, it is reasonable to assume that the stem on the inside of the top of the EVOD ismachined a bit shorter than it should be to ensure a good fit with a bit of ‘wiggle room’ so to speak) for variancein manufacturing tolerance between it and the heads/bases.

Just flipping the silicone cap worked for one of my EVODs, but did not work for the other (apparently the stem isjust a hair too short on that one. Time to try out plan B from my earlier experiment. You are going to need anextra silicone cap for this. I took one from a spare head, but I will start saving the reusable parts from heads inthe future:

click to enlarge

Now take that second cap and put it on the head upside down. It’ll look something like this:

click to enlarge

Time to fill her up and try it again.

I was able to get the base screwed down almost all the way (don’t force it or you risk breaking the top of theEVOD). Mine had just a hairsbreadth of a gap between the base and the top piece, plenty of room for the siliconeo-ring inside the base to seal it up nice and tight.

Worked perfectly. No gurgles, no flooding (this time I wiped down the tip with a napkin when the condensationgot built up), no leaking.

This is an easy fix; Kanger needs to make the top of this silicon cap just a hair thicker. Or maybe make the ‘cup’part double sided. Either should work and is a really cheap solution to this occasional problem.

If I could not have gotten this fixed, I would never buy another EVOD, and this post would have been a review ofthe EVOD telling people not to waste their money.

As it stands, I’m ok with it. The EVOD works fantastically after this simple modification, and even better with thelarger flavor wick.

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46 THOUGHTS ON “HOW TO: FIX KANGER EVOD LEAKING/GURGLING ISSUES”

Pingback: Passthrough VV has funny relationship with 'fixed' Evod (NOTE: This is an issue with power draw.NEVER use a passthrough on a computer USB port -Sandman)

Posted in APV Hardware, How To

Tagged bcc, clearomizer, evod, evod bcc, evod leaking, flooding, gurgle, gurgling, kanger, leak, leaking, Mini Protank,

protank

Related

Hardware Review: Kanger Protank (original model)

PSA: What tanks use Kanger Protank atomizers?

Hardware Review: Kanger Protank 2

Bert Richardson— JULY 15, 2013 AT 15:13

Thanks – Resolved my issue!!!!!

Reply

dannyboy65— JULY 23, 2013 AT 14:07

An outstanding fix. I’ve been doing this a long time, but didnt have the talent to make a concise blog. Bravo!!!It should be noted that all heads don’t need 2 cups. But in my experience at least half of them do need it. I have20 heads and 10 needed the double cup method before and after rebuilding.

Again, thank you very much for this tutorial. I’m sure you helped many EVOD/Protank users.

Reply

Sandman— JULY 23, 2013 AT 14:25

No problem, glad you found it useful!

Reply

bob caruso— AUGUST 6, 2013 AT 00:10

better if you use the cup of a top coil like a CE7, it’s longer & has less chance of sliding over the stack

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Hilary— AUGUST 18, 2013 AT 01:22

Analog free for 5 weeks. I just wanted to give up, at any cost and have done so. In that respect I am veryhappy and wouldn’t return to tobacco but I do enjoy the vaping.

Have tried all different sorts of carts that fit on the ego batteries. Now on wick-less variety (CE5) – they are allfine first fill but even the CE5 leaks on 2nd and subsequent fillings.

The wick has been replaced for cotton wool and doesn’t dry out properly after rinsing. Cotton wool seems a weirdand cheap thing to use I think. The “draw” even after drying out for several days on the top of my old analogmonitor (nice n warm) becomes much harder than before rinsing.

OK I realize not everyone is giving up “no matter the price” and a lot of people are vaping just to save moneyrather than health but surely there must be a way to make the “bit in the middle” of the cart robust enough to

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last a fair time without leaking.

I’d happily pay ten times the price for a product which doesn’t leak and can be rinsed out for a vaping flavorchange.

So far the closest I have got to this is the rebuildable ce4 cart which is fine for first use but leaks after refilling –works fine after cleaning and drying first time then leaks on subsequent refillings.

Can I ask two questions here, just to check things please.

1) does the vaping happen because the liquid is heated and turns into a sort of steam? Is this done in the middleof the cart by a coil thing which heats up?

2) If that is the case, sure if e-smoking helps people quit tobacco smoking, a decent engineer could redesign“the middle bit” so it doesn’t work like a “cheap, far-east import”?

Thank you for great posts and info by the way.

Reply

Sandman— AUGUST 19, 2013 AT 09:34

Yes vapor is atomized by the coil. Yes I’m sure some engineering work could improve the function ofclearomizers. Have you tried the Protank line?

Reply

Ctay— AUGUST 30, 2013 AT 10:58

Actually saw this two cap remedy on youtube somewhere and decided to try it since I also have leaks andgurgles with my two EVODs. I’m bit disappointed as it didn’t work for me, at least not on this EVOD, may try it onthe other.

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Sandman— AUGUST 30, 2013 AT 11:12

Sorry to hear that it didn’t work for you.

Reply

riveaa— SEPTEMBER 3, 2013 AT 00:34

Hi, just got a leaking EVOD and am going to try the two cap method; could you please share where to get thesilicone wick (online or otherwise)?

Thanks very much

Reply

Sandman— SEPTEMBER 3, 2013 AT 10:41

That I am aware of, you cannot buy just the gasket. I save them from atomizers that burn out, and if Idon’t have any I’ll use one from a new atomizer that I haven’t used yet.

Reply

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cryptk— SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 AT 22:56

I think quality control and consistency is the main issue. I bought a five pack of these. One I gave to a friendwho has used it and hasn’t reported any leaking issues. I used 3 others. One works perfectly. I can run the tankdry without a hiccup. Another leaked and gurgled like crazy. Tried the “pull a wick” trick and it didn’t help.Accidentally trashed it so it became a parts unit. One is unopened…. which brings us to the last one. It workedOK if the tank is full. Once it gets down to 2/3 to 1/2 full it starts gurgling and leaking up the tube. Tried theflipping the seal trick. Tried the 2 seals trick… no luck. What DID finally seem to fix it was adding some wickmaterial. It did tighten up the draw a bit but seems to be working fine now.

I did notice in the 3 I ran that the one that worked fine had a medium draw. The horrible one was pretty airy andthe mediocre one was in between. I do think that it’s mostly a wicking issue. If you can call them wicks… they’reso short they unwind and there’s just a pile of little strings in there. Some of it will also have to do with thethickness of the juice and possibly how much voltage you’re tossing at it to burn the juice off. All of mine wereon a standard ego battery. Still not going to pull wick material with a VV as I want to vape, not experiment.

Reply

erik— OCTOBER 1, 2013 AT 13:44

Awesome! Thanks for this til! I was almost about to tross the thing before i read this…

Reply

erik— OCTOBER 5, 2013 AT 17:09

I tried this, have you had an issue when after a few hits you get a straight burnt wick taste? assumption is thatjuice isnt flowing past the second silicon cup? what do you suggest

Reply

Sandman— OCTOBER 7, 2013 AT 16:07

I have not, are you using a particularly thick juice? Have you tried maybe removing the “flavor wicks”, orpotentially replacing them with a longer piece of standard silica wick? I had to replace the “flavor wick”on one of my heads with 2mm silica, and noticed that I was getting WAY better vapor production (whichI can only assume is from increased juice delivery). Something to think about.

Reply

Vargyl— OCTOBER 16, 2013 AT 02:58

I will have to try this, i am so sad that my protank mini keeps gurgling, even at 80% filled. (I have anotherprotank2 mini and an Evod BCC coming, im so scared they will all have the same issue)

Going to use the sillica from one of my older clearo’s and see if that helps the gurgling together with the 2 cups.

Reply

Dennis— OCTOBER 19, 2013 AT 19:06

Love the evod look, bottom coils make sense. My Pro Tank and Evods both a leaky, gurgly bad experience, sittingin the cabinet since I bought em…Thanks for the great research and fix advice. This is exactly what I’ve beenlooking for!!!

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Sam— OCTOBER 19, 2013 AT 20:17

Thanks so much for posting! Being a bottom coil unit I tried this on my nearly empty tank when it started gurglingand “spitting” juice, worked like a charm. Nice one!

Reply

Porfyrios— OCTOBER 20, 2013 AT 14:43

My evod is leaking as well. Where can i buy a pack of these silicone caps ?

Reply

Sandman— OCTOBER 28, 2013 AT 15:27

I do not know of anywhere that sells just the caps, but every atomizer head comes with one. You canget a 5 pack from discountvapers.com for like $6.

Reply

Jacob— OCTOBER 24, 2013 AT 00:28

I threw away no many coils and now thanks to this amazing blog my evod is working perfect better than anyother vape product I’ve used thanks man you are a hero this freaking worked was about to say forget it but yourblog saved me money thanks again

Reply

Meldee— OCTOBER 27, 2013 AT 19:02

Thank you so so so much! I was getting insanely frustrated with my protank. No matter what I tried (replacingheads, flipping the cup cap, adding/removing flavor wicks) it would flood and become unusable almostimmediately. I was about to give up when I found your post. I added a second cap, and it worked! So happy!

Reply

Ryan Forehand— OCTOBER 29, 2013 AT 15:23

Thank you! Completely fixed my issue!

Reply

Alan— NOVEMBER 12, 2013 AT 00:28

Those fixes are just so helpful. Heard good things about Protank, so I got one, but I’m getting sick of having topop the battery every two or three pulls, just to clean the juice off the contact. (I already flooded the life out ofone of my two variable voltage batts) You got to the the core issue, which is how to get the wick to deliverjuice to the coil without allowing any seepage of the liquid into the coil compartment, Your solutions aren’tperfect, but they sure do help. What is needed is a redesign of how to seal the opening through which the wick

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passes, from the liquid to the coil compartment. Simply pressing down on the wicks with a silicone skirt does notproperly address the issue. I’ve only been vaping for a couple of months (after many years of smoking) so I don’treally want an alternative that needs me to be some combination of babysitter and mr. fix-it. Thanks again.

Reply

Craig— NOVEMBER 13, 2013 AT 17:41

Worked perfectly. Immediately solved my Mini Protank 2 leaking issue. Thanks!

Reply

Rich Malley— NOVEMBER 18, 2013 AT 08:32

OK, great fix! So far, so good. I’m so glad I found this post before I decided to try to figure out my own fix—Ithink I would’ve made it more complicated. I do question, however, whether the faulty seal was entirely wherethe tube sealed against the gasket. Why would that cause the flooding and gurgling I’ve encountered? Thatseems like it’s more likely caused by juice leaking in outside the tank/atomizer gasket seal, perhaps at the pressfit on the chimney. I find it unlikely that so much juice would leak from the tank into the tube that it would makeits way down the chimney to cause the gurgling. It’s possible that it is leaking from the tank into the tube andthen through the hole in the seal around the chimney, but if that were the case, the leak causing the gurglingwould still be under the cap. That may be possible because the chimney is splined, but the hole in the gasketisn’t. I’ve always found that a little bit suspect. But I still wonder whether there wasn’t some leakage underneaththe cap, too, independent of any leaking between the tank/tube seal. So I think your fix works in a few ways tomitigate the problem: by forming a hardier seal between the mouthpiece tube and the top of the atomizer; byforming a thicker friction fit seal where the base of the chimney perforates the gasket (now gaskets, plural); andby forming a tighter seal underneath the cap where the press fit is. But, whatever! I’ll take it. Thanks for thehelpful information!

Reply

Sandman— NOVEMBER 18, 2013 AT 09:17

It’s a fluid dynamics problem. 9 out of 10 gurgling problems are caused by the way the user is inhaling.When you take a drag on a Kanger BCC (and many other similar designs, but I am most familiar with theKanger design so assume I am talking about that here), you are creating negative pressure in the tankwhere the juice resides. Because the design is not completely sealed, there are two ways that negativepressure can be equalized; air can enter the juice area, or juice can enter the air path.

The wick is (in theory) supposed to create a condition where the juice can exist in the quantities that weneed it to for vaporization, but enters the air path slow enough that it does not flood, and air can enterthe juice area. Because of the design of the system (and I theorize mass production tolerance limits),there is another area that is not 100% sealed, the area where the silicone cup seal is. When you drawhard and fast on the tank, this creates a vacuum strength that exceeds the designed flow controlabilities of the wick, and as with everything in fluid dynamics, the path of least resistance is used toequalize the pressure (which in this case happens to be for juice to flow up the center tube and into thechimney since the coil and wick are physically blocking the intended air path). If this were not the case,you couldn’t flip that silicone cup without immediately flooding the atomizer, every time.

This is all supposition, as I don’t have access to the equipment needed to verify that, but it would fullyexplain why the additional cup trick works as effectively as it does. The press fit seal is actually morethan sufficient (at least on newly manufactured atomizers that have not been rebuilt several times) toprevent juice leaking into the air path, and because of the viscosity of the juice (high PG juices being theexception here) the wick used is generally up to its flow control task.

Understand that because of the wive variance in juice viscosity Kanger has had to make someassumptions about what their system is designed to support. Very thin, or very thick juices will not workwith maximum efficiency in these units, Kanger had to shoot for the widest slice of users and design thesystem for middle of the road use cases.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Reply

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Rich Malley— NOVEMBER 18, 2013 AT 09:10

Created a post on my blog linking here: http://richmalley.squarespace.com/oblogatory/2013/11/18/easy-fix-for-kanger-evod-e-cig-leaking-gurlgling-flooding-is.html

Reply

Zaly507— NOVEMBER 20, 2013 AT 21:43

Thank you so much Sandman….The guide really help a lot. I’ve thrown out 3 pcs of the coil unit thought that it was broken. Following the guideyou give, it works great now.Thanks again.

Reply

Craig— NOVEMBER 21, 2013 AT 15:24

I applied this fix 3 weeks ago and I have not had a single gurgle or leak since. Kanger Mini Protank II =great vapor

Reply

Wilson— NOVEMBER 21, 2013 AT 18:12

I loved reading your post. It is exactly how I deduced the problem myself. I have made it down to your last step.I, after talking with seveal aficionados took out a flavor wick to get a smoother draw and then mygurgling/leaking started. I followed the same process and was looking on the net to see what could be next. I amgoing to try having a flipped cup and one in the original orientation. Thanks again and I will look to see if youhave any other reviews or fixes for the vapor enthusiasts.

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David R. Usher— NOVEMBER 22, 2013 AT 19:53

Here is the short version of how to fix kanger leaks and gurgling. Do a google search for “How To: Fix KangerEVOD leaking/gurgling issues”. http://godofsteam.wordpress.com/2013/07/12/how-to-fix-kanger-evod-leakinggurgling-issues/ This article is simple and it works perfectly. You borrow the top white rubber cap seal offan old atomizer and put it on the atomizer upside down. Leave the original seal in place so there are two seals,one down, one up. This takes care of leaking, gurgling and air pressure differential issues 100%.

Reply

Dakota— DECEMBER 2, 2013 AT 23:30

I tried to do this and it didn’t work at all..fired it and it was hard to pull like any other time..unscrewed it from myzmax v5 and guild was on battery conductor

Reply

Sandman

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— DECEMBER 3, 2013 AT 09:39

This isn’t supposed to change the draw of Kanger tanks. It is designed to stop leaking.

Reply

Sam Hyden— DECEMBER 3, 2013 AT 01:10

you are the mangreat vape

Reply

Jason— DECEMBER 4, 2013 AT 23:25

Thanks man you are a lifesaver. Brand new evod, middle of the night, and I was getting puddles on top of mybattery connector as well as gurgling nonstop…this solved the issue immediately!

Reply

Thompson— DECEMBER 6, 2013 AT 21:09

Will this work with a protank 2?

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Sandman— DECEMBER 6, 2013 AT 23:24

It should. There are additional possibilities with a ProTank 2, but as it uses the same atomizer, the thingsin this post still apply.

Be aware that if the seal between the glass and the two gaskets that mate with it is compromised it canalso lead to leaking.

Reply

Thompson— DECEMBER 7, 2013 AT 01:31

This fixed the protank 2 problem. my brother and I had a lot of issues without the 2nd gasket. myguess is that the 2nd gasket gets loose which cause the very top of the wick to get flooding fromthe very top. thank you so much for this post! This gives me more of a vape because the foil is notflooded for a clear hit. i was going to try a protank 3 for an alternative.

Ankush Narula— DECEMBER 9, 2013 AT 21:05

For what it’s worth, I had this problem with the ProTank 3 out of the box. The head is dual-coil and has a veryshort top stem. The air tube is longer in the tank itself to meet the top stem. There was also no silicon cup –which I found surprising. The leaking and gurgling in this configuration was beyond absurd to the point where Iwas getting sick from excess nicotine in my mouth.

Anyway, I tried many of the above suggestions to no avail. I ended up taking a silicon cup from a regular PThead and inverting it at the very top of the short stem. This didn’t work by itself but something felt different. I

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then added 1-2mm of additional silica between the stem and dual coils. No luck but slightly better. A clue?Finally, I wrapped the entire base of the head with juice saturated 2mm silica so that it is just partially blockingboth wicking holes in the head. This finally seems to have done it. Unbelievable.

What’s happening? So it seems that when drawing on the PT3, there is not enough air flow and so the suctionalso draws juice from the tank into the air stream. Wrapping the wick holes with additional silica has createdmore resistance to draw from the tank than is required to draw air, so a stable balance has been struck. This is ahack but it works nicely for now.

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godmustache— DECEMBER 10, 2013 AT 18:35

I had this problem too. I think it’s the viscosity of the liquid vs. the amount of wick. The problem I saw was wasthe amount of air I could see between the wick and the gasket. I had to add wick (which blocks the hole butallows more productive juice into the coil chamber) to correct my problem. Capillary action maaan.

I don’t think adding wick takes away from the draw because the wick is stretched across a chamber. Thechamber allows air to flow AROUND the wick with no obstruction no matter how much wick is present.

As for the double gasket… do you think backing coil off the base a slight turn could raise it up enough to create abetter seal?

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Sandman— DECEMBER 11, 2013 AT 16:22

While backing the atomizer base threads off might raise the seal, it will also lead to leaks at the base,and center pin connection issues.

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