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Produced By Painting-A-Car.com 1
How To Paint A Car In Seven Days
Learn How To Do Car Painting With Step-By-Step
Instructions By Andrew Carlsberg
Produced By Painting-A-Car.com 2
Copyright © 2012
All Rights Reserved
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Table Of Contents
Learn How To Do Car Painting With Step-By-Step Instructions
Table Of Contents
Introduction
Warning:
Things You Will Need
1 - Stripping The Paint
2 – Metal Work, Fixing Dents & Removing Rust
Fixing Rusts In The Car
Patching Up Small Holes
3 – Smoothing And Filling
Types Of Fillers
Applying The Filler
4 – Initial Painting
Sanding
5 – Final Paint
Options For The Top Coat
Applying The Final Top Coat
Final Buffing
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Introduction
Painting a car is very expensive, but sometimes we have no choice
but to have our cars repainted. In most cases, you can consider yourself
lucky if you are able to dish out at least $3000 for a “fairly decent” paint job.
But in reality, you will most likely dish out twice or even thrice that number if
you want a quality paint job for your beloved ride.
Of course, you can try to do things on your own, which is exactly why
I created this book to help you accomplish that task. How To Paint A Car In Seven Days is a complete, step-by-step instructional book material that
will teach you how to paint your own car in under seven days (assuming
that the weather favors you of course). By following the instructions that I
have laid in this book, you don’t have to dish out tens of thousands of
dollars for repainting your car. If you turn out to develop your skill in car
painting, why, you can even do car painting as your main source of living!
Warning:
Please consult your doctor before trying to follow the instructions on
this book. Some people might be irritated by the chemical compounds
included in car paint and other materials that are used in car painting and
your health is more important than anything.
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Things You Will Need
Here are the things that you will need for a car-painting project:
1. Gloves 2. Goggles 3. Face mask 4. Chemical stripper 5. Grit paper 6. Sander 7. Welder (not necessarily needed, unless you need to weld-in parts to
replace rusty sections of the car) 8. Welding mask (for welding) 9. POR-15 Paint 10. Paint spray respirator 11. Paint gun 12. Masking paper / masking tape(for covering the car while painting) 13. Filler 14. Paint 15. Fiberglass cloth (just in case you need to cover in some holes) 16. Painter’s suit
These are the minimum requirements that you must have, but these are not all the materials you will use. More will be introduced in the book, and not all of them will be utilized because each car will have its own different sets of problems.
Having said that, let’s start learning how to paint a car!
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1 - Stripping The Paint
In any car painting project, the first thing that you must do is strip the
car of its old paint. Decide on how much of the car you want to take apart
(to strip paint from underlying parts) and how far you will go in stripping the
paint. The best paint jobs must have all the old paint stripped and as much
as possible all moldings, trim and bumpers removed. There is no need to
remove suspension, engine, interior or anything else as these items are
easily masked off. If you do the total restoration then you would be
stripping the whole car to the shell, but for an external paint job it is not
necessary.
Strip the car in whatever means that you want. Chemical strippers will
do a nice job, but they require careful washing of the car to remove all
residue (not to mention they also make a mess on the floor). Any small
amount of stripper left in some corner can ruin a paint job. And besides,
chemical strippers are usually smelly and they burn the skin if not handled
properly. Just to add, strippers will damage any plastic filler so all filler
must be removed and replaced. The alternative is to use abrasives to strip
the car. Using a 9 inch sander with 24 or 36 grit papers, sand the car until
you see the underlying metal, but do not sand it too much because you
might create some deep scratches or vents if you overdo it.
If the paint job was an old lacquer job or you used a lacquer primer, a
simple razor blade may be used to remove the top layers. This method will
remove some filler as you hit it so you must be careful. Once you hit the
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metal, use an 80-grit paper to rough up the metal for better paint adhesion.
If the filler is over 10 years old, or from an unknown paint job, then it should
be removed and replaced. You can either use the 9-inch random orbit
sander or a knotted wire brush on a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder. I prefer the
wire brush, but the choice is up to you.
There are some more exotic methods if paint removal if you have the
finances. Media blasting with Walnut shells or dry ice pellets works well but
is not recommended unless you are doing a total strip of the car. NEVER
sand blast a car body. The sand acts as a peen (this is how they shot peen
rods) and will make body panels look like the ocean in a hurricane. You
can also acid dip the car which will remove all rust and paint, but the car
must be entirely stripped.
2 – Metal Work, Fixing Dents & Removing Rust
After you have the car stripped, the metal work should start next.
Metal work means fixing the small damages that he body of the car might
have sustained. This is important because paint cannot hide the dents and
scratched in a car. Small dents can be worked out by using a hammer and
dolly or a semi pointed probe worked across the metal on the back side. I
worked out several small dents this way and did not have to use any filler at
all in those places. Larger dents have to be banged out using the hammer
and dolly the best as can be done. Unless you are an artisan then you will
have to use some filler on large dents. Be sure to not have any high places
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in the metal or you will have a bump in the final paint finish that cannot be
sanded down.
Often, high areas can be "shrunk" by using a pick hammer with a
dolly in the back side. What you must do is to exchange the large dent or
bump for a whole bunch of small bumps that are easier to fill and cover.
Lightly just tap over that rise area working from the edges to the center and
the bump will slowly disappears. This may take some practice to get good
at. If you drill holes to pull out a dent, then you must weld up the holes
when done to prevent moisture from getting to the back side of the filler
material through the holes.
Fixing Rusts In The Car
There is only one way to fix rust. Cut it out, remove it and weld in
new metal. Completely remove all rusty metal from the car, don't cover any
up or the rust will grow. I use a Plasma cutter to cut the metal but quality
tin-snips or a nibbler will work just fine. If your car has some surface rust
than this is OK as the paint will completely seal it and prevent it from
growing further. Cut a piece if 18 gauge metal to cover your rusted area
that is about 1/4 inch larger than the hole. This metal should be plain steel
and must not have any coating (e.g. galvanized coat). The base metal
should also be very clean for at least an inch away from the weld. Use wire
brush or sander to prep the metal.
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As an option, you can add a depression to the body metal for the
patch to set in. A tool is made to do this but. This tool only makes 3/4 inch
long ridges at one time and can cause some warping of the metal around
the patch area. The new metal must be completely welded in using a good
MIG (metal inert glass) welder. Low current 110 welders just don't do the
job with the exception of the Lincoln SP100 or SP125. I use a 200 Amp
Century. Turn the welder up to a voltage that would normally melt holes in
the metal if welded continuously. Then tack the metal in place using short
bursts of weld (1 second) about every 4 inches around the patch.
NEVER try to push the metal in place while welding. The metal
should fit the contour of the body naturally with only a very slight pressure
needed to hold the pieces together. If you press hard while welding then
you add stresses to the patch and will cause warping in the welding
process. Once the piece is in place you can start welding it solid. This is
very important to do slowly. Weld in about 1/4 to 1/2 inch strips around the
patch with one hand on the surrounding metal about 3 inches away. Each
weld spot should spaced apart around the patch area. You keep doing this
until you fill all the gap in. If the surrounding metal gets too hot to hold your
hand on then quit till you can lay your hand over the area that is being
welded.
This process may take 20 minutes for a 6-by-6 patch area. If you
rush the welding then the metal gets too hot and warps. Sheet metal under
about 12 gauge is made by a cold rolling process. This process puts stress
on the metal released in the welding process which ca cause warping.
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Keeping the head down reduces this possibility. The welding should be
continuous and not just spotted. Moisture can come in from the back side
and cause rust to grow under the filler material and cause the filler to lift off.
Grind the weld lightly when done to reduce any high spots in the weld.
Before applying filler, rough up the metal with a 24 grit disk on a 7 inch
grinder so the filler has something to stick to. You may also want to use the
pick hammer and slightly dent the metal in around the weld area so that
less filler is needed to cover up the patch.
Patching Up Small Holes
For surface rust in areas like the floor board where dents have gotten
deep or there are some Swiss cheese-type holes less than the size of a
pencil, an alternate to welding can be done. Use a wire brush to remove all
loose scale and sand away paint from the surrounding area for about 6
inches. Clean up all dust with a vacuum. Apply POR15 metal prep to the
area to etch the new metal that is not rusted. POR15 will not stick to clean
metal unless chemically etched, but it sticks very well to rust. Apply a
heavy coat of POR15 paint over the entire area. Lay a layer of fiberglass
cloth over the rusted area and coat with another heavy coat of POR15.
After the paint is dry to the touch, add another coat and a layer of slightly
smaller fiberglass cloth. After it has dried to the touch then add 2 more
coats of POR15 alone waiting till the paint has dried to the touch between
each coat. POR15 is an amazing paint. It does not ever fully get hard. It
dries faster when it is damp out. It will not lift with the formation of rust like
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normal paint will, and is so strong that you will NEVER be able to peel that
fiberglass cloth off again.
The patch will be nearly as strong as the original metal. The stuff is
not really paint, but they call it paint for lack of a better word. You can also
use it for areas of heavy rust on the body that has not gone completely
through. Simply paint a couple of coats over rusted metal before filling and
painting. If you are going to top coat the POR15 then you need to spray a
light coat of primer on it before it completely dries or sand it so the top
coats will stick. You don't need the fiberglass cloth on an area that does not
have holes through. I also recommend using it under fenders where rust is
on the back side and over the back side of the welded-in patches.
POR15 is not the same as rust converters (e.g. "Extend"). It does not
convert the rust, but instead covers it up which helps in preventing moisture
from getting to the rust which stops any further rust spread. Don’t forget to
wear plastic gloves. POR15 sticks to skin like crazy glue. If it dries on your
hands you will wear it for about 2 weeks. (I tried Acetone, Xylene, Toluene,
Methel-ethyl keytone, Tricholrethene, gasoline, Alcohol, Lacquer thinner,
Carb cleaner, Brake cleaner with Hexane, sand paper, and soap to get it
off. Nothing worked.)
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IF YOU WANT TO READ THE REMAINING CHAPTERS FROM THIS GUIDE, KINDLY VISIT
PAINTING-A-CAR.COM AND START LEARNING MORE CAR-PAINTING TIPS AND TRICKS!
DON’T FORGET TO CHECK OUT THESE AMAZING SET OF
CAR PAINTING VIDEOS TOO!
CHECK OUT SPRAY PAINT SECRETS
TODAY!