How To Prune Grapevines Part Three

Spurs & Spur Sites Spurs are located on

spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon

SpursAre the canes that have

been cut to 2 nodes

Spurs & Spur Sites Spurs are located on

spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon

SpursAre the canes that have

been cut to 2 node

Spur sites Are the older wood that

the spurs are attached to

Cordons Permanent arms run along the fruiting wires

Cordons Are canes that have not been removed but

become part of the permanent structure They do not become longer in length but they

do become wider in girth They can last for a number of years

Spurs are Count nodes That provide count shoots for the current

year But remember... Cane pruning also uses spurs to provide the

replacement canes for the following year Spurs should be left longer for less fruitful

varieties or shorter in the case of very fruitful varieties

Typical spur site

Typical spur site

Spur Sites Spur sites need to be carefully managed They can get killed off by: Pests, diseases and machinery

Loss of Spur Sites Loss of spur sites will result in a gap in the

canopy Careful management of each spur site is

very important in maintaining a healthy and productive cordon

A cordon with dead spur sites will need to be replaced as these sites will often not regenerate

Spur Pruning Usually pruned to two node spurs at each site The spur sites are spaced out on the tops of

cordons so that when they are pruned there will be a shoot density of 15 shoots per metre

The aim with spur pruning is to keep the spurs as close to the cordon as possible

The diagram below shows you how to achieve this

Cordon

This seasons canes

Last seasons spurSeasons

before spur

Which cane becomes the spur?

Which cane will keep the spur sit close to the

cordon?

The spur site was not correctly managed and this has resulted in an elongated spur that is now quite a distance away from the cordon

Other pruning Cuts Removing watershoots Renewing spur sites Replacing cordons

Removing Watershoots

This watershoot is not needed The spurs sites

are already well spaced

Try to remove it so it is flush with

the cordon

Removing Watershoots

Replacing Spur Sites

This Spur site is damaged

Try to leave a small mound that contains dormant buds

Replacing Spur Sites

A watershoot will burst and the new

spur site can be created

Replacing a Cordon

This cordon is diseased and a

new one needs to be established

This can be achieved with a watershoot

or a cane

It needs to be close to the

head and below the

fruiting wire

Remove the cordon till there is only clean wood

Replacing a Cordon

The watershoot is laid onto the wire and tied

down

Replacing a Cordon

Cutting a Spur Cut the spur 1.5 - 2 cm behind the

node/bud angled slightly away from the bud The angled cut avoids damaging the bud

and reduces the possibility of water and disease spores accumulating on the cut which could infect the wood

Cutting a Spur The cut is angled away from the

bud to avoid bud damage and to avoid water accumulation