How to Restore a Factory...

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Easy Steps to Professional Results

From a Worn Out Relic…

…to a Gorgeous Centerpiece!

All you need to know including: • Disassembly

• Refinishing • Assembly

• Product sources

Written by: Wayne S. Walker, professional cart restorer www.reduxlineberryfactorycart.com

http://www.reduxlineberryfactorycart.com/

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Easy Steps to Professional Results

Wayne S. Walker

www.reduxlineberryfactorycarts.com Port Charlotte, Florida

2013

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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any method; electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission of the publisher. For information regarding permission write to: Wayne Walker 9338 Migue Circle Port Charlotte, FL 33981

Copyright © 2013 by Wayne S. Walker All rights reserved

Printed in the U.S.A.

First Edition

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CONTENTS

Page ABOUT THE AUTHOR INTRODUCTION Something Old Process Description Safety Tools & Supplies Preparation CHAPTER 1 DISASSEMBLY Step 1 Remove Deck Boards Step 2 Remove Wheels Step 3 Remove Corner Brackets Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 2 CLEAN, REPAIR & REFINISH HARDWARE Step 1 Inspect Step 2 Chip Repair Step 3 Crack Repair Step 4 Stripping Paint Step 5 Cleaning the Castings Step 6 Wire Brushing Step 7 Metal Treatment Step 8 Caster Set Screws Step 9 Restoring Hardware Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 3 REPAIR the FRAME and DECK BOARDS Step 1 Repair Cracks and Knot Holes Step 2 Grinding and Surfacing Step 3 Sanding Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 4 REASSEMBLE FRAME Step 1 Position End Beams Step 2 Position Side Beams

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Step 3 Predrill Side Beams Step 4 Nail Side Beams Step 5 Position Center Beam Step 6 Predrill Center Beam Step 7 Nail Center Beam Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 5 REFINISH FRAME & DECK BOARDS Step 1 Preparation Step 2 Clean the Surface Step 3 Touch Up the Knots and Repairs Step 4 Stain the Cart Wood Surfaces Step 5 Stain the Deck Boards Step 6 Paint the Lettering Step 7 Mix the Finish Lacquer Step 8 Apply the Finish Lacquer Step 9 Recoat the Frame and Deck Boards Step 10 Sanding the Cart Frame and Deck Boards Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 6 INSTALL WHEELS HARDWARE & DECK Step 1 Installing the Large Wheels Step 2 Installing the Caster Wheels Step 3 Installing the Corner Brackets Step 4 Installing the Deck Boards Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 7 FINAL FINISH Step 1 Prepare Deck for Final Finish Step 2 Paint the Nail Heads Step 3 Fill Cracks and Defects Step 4 Apply the Finish Lacquer Step 5 Treat Washers Nuts Bolt Ends and Touch Up Tools and Supplies CHAPTER 8 PRODUCT SOURCES Tools & Supplies Lineberry Restoration Kits APPENDIX Restoration Checklist

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ABOUT the AUTHOR

Wayne S. Walker is a life long craftsman. He has been involved in construction and woodworking of all types for almost 40 years. He has primarily owned companies in South Florida, and they include millwork shops in Boca Raton and Sarasota. Many years ago, after closing a factory that he owned, he realized the value of the Factory Carts he had used in his plant for such a long time. They had carried thousands of tons of goods across his shop floors and they were important to him. But what to do with them? There wasn't a market to sell them for their original design and intention. He determined to recycle them into something that would be meaningful to others and carry their quaint and rugged charm to a different level. Thus, an idea was born, to make furniture of them – coffee tables to be exact. It wasn't a totally unique idea, but had not quite caught on yet. He had found the answer. Wayne set about to draw on his many years of experience in manufacturing to produce the very best in Factory Cart Restorations. He has done that very successfully and now has turned a corner. There is a popular trend that has developed for this fun and challenging undertaking. He has now he decided to share his knowledge, experience, and sources with the many others who have discovered the enjoyment of restoring their own Factory Cart. This instruction manual provides the answers that many need for their quest. A comment from Wayne: "It has been my pleasure to work with Factory Cart Restoration over the past number of years. There are many challenges to get just the right look and make sure that all elements come together just right. I especially like the idea that we can breathe new life into these beautiful old work horses of industry. Many have been abandoned and even discarded, but every one we save is a real plus for the concept of renewable resources. I am pleased to be able to help all those who share the same interest in what have now become timeless treasures."

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INTRODUCTION

SOMETHING OLD What is it about this ruggedly handsome old wagon, known as a Factory Cart? Why are we drawn to them and to the idea of restoring one to include in our own living space? There is something very exciting and rewarding about taking something old and making it new again. In recent years many people have discovered the importance of recycling older items of all kinds. Things that were made well, that had an elegant simplicity of purpose, and that were crafted by hand are especially attractive to us. In an age of consumer goods made on the other side of our planet, it is refreshing to come close to well-made items. That is what brings us to this place. To the revelation of a fine old piece of industrial hardware that has served its time for many decades. That has borne the loads of untold tons of raw material, finish goods, luggage, and certainly food stuffs of all types. From the warehouses, to the rail yards, to the shipping docks…these workhorses have labored. This manual will describe the processes involved to professionally restore your own Factory Cart. Welcome to a worthy adventure. PROCESS DESCRIPTION From the Preparation phase, through the Disassembly, Refinishing, and Assembly, this manual was written with an experts view and experience. Each and every step is described in detail with no important item left out. For anyone with a general knowledge of shop tools, and working with wood, metals, and finishes, this small book will reveal all things necessary to complete the project. It will take you from a decrepit old piece of forgotten history, to a splendid and useful piece of conversational furniture. SAFETY As with all types of shop work requiring the use of tools, both hand and power tools, there are important safety considerations. Most of the steps involved in a Factory Cart Restoration carries some element of risk. This manual is written with that in mind, because nothing contained here is worth an injury. With that in mind we offer a complete selection of the safety products needed to

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work in a safe manner. You will find notations throughout the manual on safe work habits and when to exercise more than a normal amount of caution. With that in mind, let's determine to complete our project without so much as a band aid and we will have succeeded. TOOLS and SUPPLIES The manual includes a very comprehensive list of all tools and supplies necessary to complete a Factory Cart Restoration. The list also includes a source for every item. Some who read this manual will have many of the tools described. That will make your job that much easier, because if you have the tool, not only will you not have to acquire it, but you probably already know exactly how to use it. We offer the tools and supplies as a suggested recommendation, based on decades of experience in woodworking, metalworking, finishing of all types, and antique restoration. If you have your own tools and methods that work better for you that is excellent. It will make the job that much simpler. There are also many suitable alternates and substitutions for most of the tools. One thing we would not recommend is that you substitute many of the finishes unless you have a thorough working knowledge. They have been carefully selected for the best possible results. PREPARATION It's always a good idea to carefully plan a project before you begin. We have included a Restoration Checklist in the manual that can help you do that. There are many details to consider with this project. Each person has their own level of knowledge, skill, experience, and resources. All of this should be taken into account. Along the way there will be other things to consider, such as keeping a journal of your progress, taking photos of the different steps, even invite friends and family to visit the project. These things add interest, importance, and a true sense of satisfaction. There are even some who already have, or will consider this type of restoration as a business. We hope this manual proves a useful guide for that as well.

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CHAPTER 1 DISASSEMBLY STEP 1 REMOVE DECK BOARDS To begin the restoration process, you will need to remove the deck boards from the cart. This process is fairly simple. You need only two tools, a 3 pound Sledge Hammer, and a pair of 8" End Cutting Pliers. Begin removing the deck boards with the cart setting on its wheels, using the 3 lb. Sledge Hammer. Beginning on one end of the cart, tap from the underside of the deck board with the Sledge Hammer. It is recommended to use the sledge verses a regular hammer. The reason is that the weight of the sledge persuades the deck board upward without splitting it. If you use a typical claw hammer, its weight and size requires more pounding and results in splitting the deck board. After one side of the first deck board is lifted, go to the other side and repeat tapping the deck board loose completely. Go to the next board and repeat the process until all the deck boards are removed from the cart frame. Next we will remove the nails from the deck boards. Most of the nails usually come out easily due to the fact they are corroded and thin. The 8" End Cutting Pliers are used to grip the head of the nail in order to pull it through the deck board from the top side. If the nail is badly bent, you can cut it off from the bottom using the same pliers before attempting to pull it through. This will help prevent damage to the deck board. If you find any small staples or small brad nails in the deck boards, a pair of needle nose pliers will be very helpful to remove these. It's a good idea to stack your deck boards in an out of the way place as you work. That's a good start, now let's move to Step 2 of the Disassembly. STEP 2 REMOVE WHEELS For safety and convenience, this step requires that the cart be placed in a working position that is easy to access. There are three basic methods for this. One way is to place the factory cart upside down on a pair of sturdy sawhorses. The factory cart weighs about 175 pounds and will require at least two strong people to set

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the cart on the horses. There are alternatives to using sawhorses. One would be to rotate the cart upside down and work on the floor. Another method is to use a forklift truck, which works best because you can adjust the height of the cart to work comfortably. There are four wheels to remove, two large wheels on the sides, and two smaller, caster type wheels on the ends. They are held in place with carriage bolts and hex nuts. Each of these will require the use of a Ratchet with a 9/16" Socket. Alternate/additional tools: 9/16" wrench, cold chisel, 3/8" Open End Thin Wrench A Cold Chisel is used if a carriage bolt begins to spin inside the bolt hole when loosening the nut. In this case, a Cold Chisel is used to wedge behind the head of the bolt and the frame while turning the nut with a wrench. To avoid the possibility of this happening it is recommended to first spray all the nuts with a Penetrating Solvent. Before you attempt to remove them with a wrench, allow the solvent to penetrate for at least five minutes. The 3/8" Open End Thin Wrench can also be used to prevent the bolt from turning. The back side of the head of the carriage bolt is 3/8 square before the thread. This wrench will fit behind the head of the carriage bolt. Usually, it needs to be forced with the tap of a hammer. If you are successful at removing the nut partially and the bolt begins to spin the wrench works best. Important: The wheels are cast iron and are very heavy. Use caution at all times to prevent dropping or pinching your fingers between the wheels and other objects. The sequence for removing the wheels begins with the large wheels first. To do this, start by removing the two nuts on each axle mount, then slide the bolts through the back side of the frame. Depending on the carts wheel type you may need to turn the wheel to align the bolt with a hole in the wheel. This will allow you to slide the bolt through the wheel. Once the bolts are removed, with two hands on the axle, pick it straight up and carefully set it down. Do not tip it, otherwise a wheel may fall off resulting in damage, or worse – injury to your foot. Next you will remove the casters from the cart ends. There are four bolts on each Caster Mount to loosen and remove. It is recommended to loosen all four nuts without removing them. Once they're all loose, firmly grip the Caster Mount with one hand, holding it tight to the frame, while removing the nuts with your other hand. With all four nuts removed, slide the Caster Mounting off of the bolts and cart frame. After the casters and mounts are removed remove the cotter pins. To do this, clamp the caster into a Bench Vise. Using the 8" End Cutting Pliers, grip the head of the cotter pin with the jaws of the pliers and pull it through the shaft. We recommend that you assign a safe, out of the way place to store your hardware.

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We're making progress, now let's move to Step 3 of the Disassembly. STEP 3 REMOVE CORNER BRACKETS The last step of the Disassembly is to remove the Corner Brackets. Here we'll use a combination of Vice-Grip pliers, along with a ratchet and socket and. Alternate/additional tools: Cold chisel, 3/8" Open End Thin Wrench Worst case tool: Reciprocating saw for cutting rusted rods or bolts Grip the long Threaded Rod that runs through the castings with the Vice-Grip pliers. Loosen the nuts on each side, removing them completely from the rods. Do not remove the rods at this point – they will be helpful to keep the Corner Bracket in place while removing the nuts from the front side of the castings. After this is complete, remove the Corner Brackets. And last, slide each rod completely out of the frame. Place your Corner Brackets and fasteners with the rest of the hardware group. Congratulations! You have now completed the Disassembly phase of your factory cart restoration and are now ready to move to the next phase. In Chapter 2 you will learn how to clean, repair, and refinish the hardware. Tools and Supplies

• Cold Chisel Set (3-Piece) • Vise-Grip 5" Curved Jaw Locking Pliers • Channel Lock 6" Tongue and Groove Pliers • 8" End-Cutting Pliers • 5” Needle Nose Pliers • Combination Wrench, 9/16", 8-7/8" OAL • Combo Wrench, 12 Pt., 9/16" • 3/8" X 5/16" Open End Thin Wrench • 3/8” Drive Ratchet with 9/16" socket • 3/8" Air Wrench, Ratchet • Sledge Hammer, 3 Lb., Fiberglass with Grip • Reciprocating Saw Kit, 0 to 2700 spm • White Lithium Grease with Cerflon • Blaster Penetrating Solvent, HD, Size 11 Oz

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CHAPTER 2 CLEAN, REPAIR & REFINISH

HARDWARE

STEP 1 INSPECTION The cleaning and repair of the hardware is one of the most labor intensive and important steps. Because we are working with metal, it requires more scrutiny, care, and uniquely developed methods than the wood restoration phase. Our first step will be to inspect the castings and wheels for cracks, chips and paint. If there are no broken or chipped castings you will not need the J-B Weld or Steel Epoxy Putty Stick. Additionally, if the castings and wheels have not be painted or over sprayed with paint or other adhesives, (which is very common) paint and varnish remover will not be required. STEP 2 CHIP REPAIR If you discover a Corner Bracket, Caster Mount, or wheel has been chipped, which is not unusual, these can be repaired quite easily in most cases. We will do this by filling and shaping the JB Epoxy Putty Stick product to the original shape of the part. Prepare the area: Before you apply the putty the chipped edge must first be cleaned. Do this simply by using the wire brush bench grinder on the chipped area brushing the chipped edge clean. Prepare the JB Epoxy putty: Once the chipped area is prepared, determine the size of the area. Then cut off a piece of the steel reinforced epoxy putty stick large enough to repair the chip and remove the plastic film. To use the putty, first you must mix it. You will notice the outside of the stick is gray and the center is black. The black is the hardener and the gray is the steel putty. To mix it, put on a pair of Nitrile gloves, then begin squeezing the putty with your fingers and rolling it with your hands until it is one consistent dark grey color, well mixed. Apply the putty: Form the putty with your fingers, pressing it firmly into the chipped part over-sizing the putty slightly. When hard, the putty will be ground to match the shape of the casting or wheel. Once this is complete, leave the part to harden as recommended in the J-B Weld instructions.

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Shape the putty: You will use the same high speed hand held grinder used to strip the deck boards, to grind the putty. Blend it to match the shape of the part, being careful not to grind off too much of the hardened putty. A mill file is also helpful for smoothing and shaping in some cases. If there are no chips in the metal castings, move to Step 3. STEP 3 Crack Repair If one of the Corner Brackets is cracked partially or completely through, whereas the casting is in two pieces, you will need to repair this part or replace it. Prepare the area: To repair the crack first brush clean the cracked edges using the wire brush bench grinder. Inspect and test the fit: After cleaning, test fit the parts by setting them up on a table. Our goal is to find the best way to position them after the weld has been applied, so the parts will not move while drying. In some cases a pinch clamp can be helpful, but in most cases not needed. If the broken pieces balance well, then holding them with hand pressure will be sufficient. Once you have decided what will be necessary to securely balance the parts you can proceed to make the repair. Apply the weld formula: To complete the weld, you will mix the J-B Weld, apply it to the broken edge of the part, and then apply pressure to hold the parts together. Mix equal proportions of both the J-B Weld and the hardener using a putty knife. Apply the mixed weld putty carefully and evenly about 1/8 inch thick along the broken edge of the part using the putty knife. Firmly apply pressure and hold for a few minutes being very careful not to move the parts. Do not attempt to scrape any of the excess putty from the part. Allow the parts to harden as recommended in the J-B Weld instructions. It's better to allow more than enough hardening time than to rush it. Grind and shape the weld: You will use the hand held grinder for this step. Grind and shape the weld putty, being careful not to remove all of it on both faces along the crack. A thin layer extending beyond the crack is necessary for the weld to hold because most of the weld is squeezed out between the cracks. The back side or inside of the corner should be ground the same way using the hand held grinder and/or a mill file in some cases.

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After grinding the inside of the Corner Bracket surface, mix a second batch of the J-B Weld. Apply the weld mix with a putty knife evenly about 1/16 inch thick over the crack at a minimum of 1/4 - 3/8" beyond the crack line both sides. Allow to harden and do not grind afterwards. This layer of weld is necessary to add strength to the first weld. Repair comment: A repaired cracked Corner Bracket will never be as strong as it was originally. Keep this in mind when reinstalling the corner to the frame. Take care not to tighten the nuts too much on either the repaired corner or the opposite corner which is connected with the Threaded Rods. Too much tightening pressure could break the weld. If there are no cracks in the metal castings, move to Step 4. STEP 4 STRIPPING PAINT If any of the castings or wheels has been painted they will need to be stripped before wire brushing them clean. To do this you will need a few things all of which are referenced in Chapter 8 and are listed below as follows: • Natural China Bristle 2" Chip Brush • 3M™ Safest Stripper™ Paint and Varnish Remover • Large Stripping Gloves • Homax #3 12 Pad Steel Wool, Coarse Grade • Utility Brush Set

Read the instructions on the back of the 3M Safest Stripper container. When stripping parts a shop sink is most useful and recommended, otherwise you will need to work outside with a garden hose. To begin stripping pour enough of the paint stripper into a coffee can or some other type of plastic container. Using a 2" China bristle brush, apply the stripper evenly and heavily to the part all over. Allow the stripper ample time to work as described in the instructions. A wire brush is used to brush off the paint in the tight areas, and using the coarse steel wool scrub the paint off everywhere else, then rinse the part with water. Sometimes you will need to repeat the process when the paint has been applied heavily. When finished stripping allow the parts time to dry before the final steps to prepare for finishing. If the wheels, castings and hardware have not been painted, move to Step 5. STEP 5 CLEANING the CASTINGS If the castings were not painted we will remove loose dirt and dust off the castings and wheels using a brush and air gun. Make use of a pair of leather work gloves to protect your hands when handling and cleaning the castings and wheels.

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The best way to do this is to set one part at a time on a worktable. Brush the part with a hand held carbon wire brush, then blow off the loosened dirt and dust with an air gun. Another tool that is very helpful, is a right angle drill equipped with an abrasive wheel. It works well for removing dirt, dust and caked on grease on the front and back face of the cart wheels. Right Angle Air Drill, 3/8 In. Free Speed 1800 rpm, used with a 3" Shaft Mounted Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel. STEP 6 WIRE BRUSHING After the initial cleaning of all the parts is completed, including stripping paint, this step will be to brush the parts using a bench grinding machine with an 8" wire brush wheel on one side and a 6" wheel on the other side. The grinder should be mounted on the left end of the bench with the 8" wheel to the left over hanging the bench. The grinding stone guards and shield will need to be removed before mounting the wheels on the grinder. Once the wheels have been installed grinding can begin. Important safety information! It is absolutely essential that you use safety glasses to protect your eyes. Occasionally the wires fly off the wheel and can become embedded in your eyes. Also be sure to always use leather gloves when brush grinding to protect your fingers and hands from the brush wheels. You can bump your hand on the turning brushes while holding the part. Without gloves this would cause a serious injury to the hand. The other protection you will need is a 3M Flat Fold Healthcare Respirator used to prevent from breathing the fine dust particles which could make you ill. Do not begin this step without the safety items mentioned here! Wire brushing the parts. I recommend beginning brush grinding all of the corners first, then the axle mounts, Caster Mounts, axle and Threaded Rods, caster wheels and shaft, and last the cart wheels. The smaller parts are easier to handle and will give you practice using the brush grinder before you tackle the wheels. The wheels are heavy and will tire you out handling them. Pace yourself and take breaks as needed. Do not work tired or distracted. Wire brushing the large wheels. To begin wire brushing the wheels, you will need to hold the wheel on an angle to the brush wheel while brushing the inside rim and turning the wheel slowly. Then on an angle, using an up and down motion from the rim to the center, turning and repeating until all surfaces have been brushed. After one side is finished flip and repeat the process on the back side. The surface of the wheel is 2-1/2" wide and can easily be brushed by holding the wheel in both hands pushing the surface of the wheel into the brush wheel and at the same time turning the wheel slowly.

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Wire brushing the caster wheels and mounts. Before you attempt cleaning the caster make sure you have removed the cotter pin to separate the caster from the Caster Mount. To do this use the end cutting pliers as described in Chapter 1. If you position the wheel again on an angle using the smaller 6" wheel brush on the right side of the brush grinder the wheel will actually begin to spin and the wire brush will clean up the inside of the wheel very quickly this way. Flip the caster and repeat the same on the opposite side. Work the surface of the wheel the same way as the larger wheel. Then brush the casting and shaft all over using the smaller brush wheel. Wire brushing the Threaded Rods. The Threaded Rods are usually very rusty as well as the axle which is also usually rusty and caked with grease and dirt on the axle ends. When brushing the rods, hold the threads on an angle against the brush and turn the rod slowly this will remove the rust completely. After you clean both threaded ends hold the rod with both hands and run it back and forth across the brush wheel slowly spinning it around, the axle is done the same way. When all the wheels, castings, and hardware are brush cleaned, blow off each part real well using the air gun and stage them on the table for the next step. STEP 7 METAL TREATMENT There are two types of rust inhibitors Dupli-Color Rust Fix and Rustoleum Rust Reformer. The difference between the two is the Dupli-Color goes on clear and blackens as it dries. The Rust Reformer goes on black and dries flat black. These formulas are not paint they actually dissolve rust and prevent it from reoccurring in the future. The metal is restored back to its original condition after the application. If the castings are especially clean without stain or discoloration the Dupli-color alone works very well. If you use only the Dupli-Color the parts will dry to a grayish black, whereas the rust reformer dries to a solid flat black which I prefer. If you choose to use the Rust Reformer to achieve the blackened look, I recommend spraying them thoroughly using the Rust Reformer, and after drying spray again with the Dupli-Color. The Dupli-Color dries with a slight satiny sheen and looks very natural. The Rust Reformer dries very flat and does not look natural by itself. The combination of both products achieves the best looking finish by far, and I highly recommend spending the extra few dollars for both products. Important safety information! I recommend wearing a pair of Nitrile gloves when spraying to protect your hands. The respirator is a must to protect yourself from the fumes, and the safety glasses to protect your eyes from any mist that may blow towards your face.

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To begin the recommended process by applying both products, spray one side of each part with the Rust Reformer. Place a shop fan near the parts and leave running until the parts are completely dry. When dry, flip the parts over and repeat the process. After the parts are coated evenly with the Rust Reformer check to be sure no spots were missed. If you find any places missed touch up and allow drying. The next step is to repeat the process again on both sides, this time using the Dupli-Color. After finishing, allow the parts to dry overnight. STEP 8 CASTER SET SCREW The original design of the factory cart allowed for the caster wheels to slide up and down inside the mount. This took the weight off the end when turning the cart and allowed it to pivot in tight turns. The Caster Mount is the casting with four bolt holes that holds the caster shaft and is mounted to each end of the factory cart. In order to secure the end caster wheels in the desired position and also to keep the cart level, we will install a set screw on each Caster Mount. To begin the process place a Caster Mount in the Bench Vise with a side facing upwards. Tighten it securely in the vise before any drilling begins. Using the Thread Tapping Cutting Oil spray the drilling location on the side of the casting to be drilled with cutting oil. Using the No 7 Drill Bit and a Variable Speed 3/8" Drill, start drilling very slowly on the centerline, exactly on the side of the Caster Mount. Gradually increase the speed of the drill once the hole begins to form. Stop and spray the hole with cutting oil and resume drilling slowly. If you drill too fast the bit will heat up and dull more quickly. Caution: Hold the drill tightly with both hands because just before cutting through, the drill bit will have a tendency to grab and will twist hard. If you are holding the drill with one hand you could injure your wrist when the drill grabs. Be careful to watch for the point when you are close to cutting through. The next step requires tapping the hole with the 1/4 x 20 NC Tap included with the No. 7 Drill Bit in the combo kit. To do this you will need your Curved-Claw Hammer and the 4" Crescent Adjustable Wrench. Spray some cutting oil in the hole drilled and place the threaded end of the tap in the hole. With your hammer lightly tap the head of the 1/4 x 20 NC Tap tool, just enough to start it, while making sure the tap is held straight. Once the tap is snug in the hole, adjust the crescent wrench to the head of the tap. Slowly turn the tap clockwise until it is threaded all the way into the hole. At this point, the tap should be protruding through the inside of the Caster Mount past the tapered end of the tap. Then with the wrench, reverse the tap all the way out of the threaded hole. By hand, twist a 1/4 x20 x 1" set screw into the tapped hole to be sure the threads are good. While the mount is still in the vice slide the shaft still attached to the caster back inside the mount. After you do this put a new 3/16" x 1-1/2" cotter pin in the hole on the end of the shaft. Using your hammer bend the pin around the shaft. Repeat the same process on the second Caster Mount.

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STEP 9 RESTORING HARDWARE The final step is to rethread the bolts and wire brush the nuts and washers or replace them with new hardware. The hardware on a typical cart is usually in pretty rough shape before removing and even more so after removing it from the cart. I recommend keeping only the Threaded Rods and replacing the rest with our original factory cart hardware kit. The cost is minimal – less than your local hardware store. It is not always possible to find all the hardware at one store, and most of the hardware that is stocked on the shelves is usually zinc plated or galvanized, which is not the correct type to use. With the time required to run around, and the cost of the gas, you will spend more money and likely end up with the wrong type and size of hardware. If you do decide to shop around, a natural steel finish is the correct type to replace the original hardware. If you choose to install new hardware, it is suggested to spray the nuts and exposed threads with the Dupli-Color inhibitor after assembly. The reason for this is that the hardware will not suffer scuffing from wrenches. The finish is the same as the castings so it will blend perfectly. You will want to protect any adjacent wood from overspray. If you choose to decide to restore the hardware, then it’s back to the bench grinder. Leather work gloves, safety glasses, and respirator all recommended. This is especially important considering you are wire brushing small steel nuts, washers and bolts at high speeds, These pieces will fly fast if you lose control while brush grinding and could easily injure an eye or other body part. The following tools will be used for this step: Bench Vise, 6-1/2" Hexagon Die, Carbon Steel, RH, 3/8-16, NC Thread Cutting Die Holder Vise-Grip, 5" Curved Jaw Locking Pliers Rethreading (chasing) the bolts and rods. Carriage bolts (20 ea – 3/8" -16) Place a carriage bolt into the Bench Vise, threads up, with the inside face of the bolt head flush with the top of the Bench Vise jaws. Thread your die in the holder down over the threads and begin to turn slowly clockwise until you work your way down the bolt and then reverse it back off. Repeat this process on all twenty carriage bolts. Threaded Rods (4 ea – 3/8"-16 x 26" ) Clamp the rod in the Bench Vise centered, with one end overhanging the bench. Rethread the end the same way you did the carriage bolt. Remove the rod and turn it around, or rotate your Bench Vise so the other end is extended past the bench and repeat the process. Complete this process on all four of the Threaded Rods.

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Hex nuts (28 ea. 3/8") Flat washers (28 ea. 3/8") Before you start this step, put on your safety gear – the Leather Gloves, Safety Glasses, and Respirator. Using the Vise-Grip pliers grasp a nut one at a time and clamp tightly on the hex flats. Brush grind it clean using the smaller 6" wheel brush. After it looks good unlock the pliers and turn the nut gripping it on a clean side of the hex and repeat the process. There are 28 nuts and washers that all should be cleaned this way. When you are finished the hardware is all restored and ready for reinstallation. TOOLS and SUPPLIES For the Clean, Repair & Refinish process you will need tools, supplies and two work stations. The best set up for the work station is a 2' x 6' work bench, a pair of sturdy sawhorses and a piece of shop plywood or MDF board 3/4" x 2' x 4' works quite well. The work bench is used to clean and repair the castings equipped with a bench grinder and a Bench Vise. The sawhorses and 2' x 4' board are used to set up a work table next to the bench. The work table is for staging the castings, wheels, and hardware before and after cleaning and repairing. The table is also used to apply the sprayable rust inhibitor treatment after the cleaning and repairs are completed. In addition you will need certain tools and supplies for this process which are listed below.

• Air Gun, 150 psi, 5-1/4", 20 scfm • 1/4" x 20 NC Tap, No 7 Drill Bit, Combo • Pistol Grip Drill, 6 Amp, 3/8" Variable Speed Reversing Trigger • Crescent 4" Adjustable Wrench • Vermont American Hexagon Die, Carbon Steel, RH, 3/8-16, NC • Thread Cutting Die Holder • Vise-Grip 5" Curved Jaw Locking Pliers • Curved-Claw Hammer, Steel, 20 oz., Smooth • Mill File, American, Bastard Cut, 10" • 3M Flat Fold Healthcare Respirator, N95, PK10 • Air Drill, General, Right Angle, 3/8" Free Speed 1800 rpm • 3" Shaft Mounted Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel • Weiler Wheel Brush, 8" • 8" Bench Grinder • 3" x 15" Carbon-Wire Brush • Bench Vise, 6-1/2" • Thread Tapping Cutting Oil Aerosol by CRC • Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant • J-B Weld 2 oz. J-B SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick (repair - chipped casting or wheel)

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• J-B Weld (for repairing a cracked casting) • Dupli-Color Rust Fix • Rustoleum Rust Reformer • Natural China Bristle 2" Chip Brush • 3M™ Safest Stripper™ Paint and Varnish Remover • Large Stripping Gloves • Nitrile Gloves • Leather Gloves, Leather Palm, Striped Cotton Back, Safety Cuff • Homax #3 12 Pad Steel Wool, Coarse Grade • Utility Brush Set

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CHAPTER 3 REPAIR the FRAME and DECK BOARDS

STEP 1 REPAIR CRACKS, and KNOT HOLES The first task in this phase of the restoration process is to repair the cracks, defects, and knot holes in the deck boards and frame pieces. A major portion of this work will be done on a work bench or table. The typical number of deck boards is nine for a Lineberry cart. It can vary due to the fact that the boards are random width. The frame consists of two sides and two ends. We'll start by gluing and clamping the cracked deck boards and frame parts with Titebond wood glue. If possible all of the boards should be glued and clamped at one time and left overnight to dry. Depending on the condition of the boards, up to twenty clamps may be necessary to complete the job at one time. If you do not have enough clamps this process will take longer and you should allow extra time. Note: See the Tools and Supplies listed at the end of this Chapter for a complete list of items needed for Repairing the Frame and Deck Boards. To begin repairing cracks place a board flat on a table or bench. Adjust two wood clamps to the width of the board being repaired. We are now going to spread any existing cracks in the wood. We'll do this by using a wood chisel and tapping it into the crack with a hammer, beginning on the end of the board. Apply Titebond glue generously into the crack, remove the chisel and repeat the process working towards the middle to the other end until all the cracks are glued. With the cracks filled with glue, clamp each end of the board using one clamp. Clamped properly, the opening of the jaws should be equal on the other end of the board and with one clamp applied on each end of the board all of the cracks should be closed tight. Use a rag and clean water to wash off the excess glue from the board, table and clamps. If there are knot holes and any remaining voids in the boards we'll use the Elmer's wood filler and a putty knife to force the filler in. Use the clamps as pedestals and flip the board over, then stand it on the clamps on the floor to dry overnight. Repeat this process until all the boards are repaired. After the boards are completely dry remove the clamps and stack them. The next two steps consist of grinding and sanding to prepare the boards for stain and finishing.

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STEP 2 GRINDING, SURFACING A high-speed grinder is proven to be the most effective way to resurface the deck boards and frame parts. The tool is very powerful and can hurt you. You'd never want to use this tool without leather gloves to protect your hands. You also want to wear safety glasses when grinding to protect your eyes from flying debris. Also, you want to use the handle attachment to control the grinder. If you're right-handed attach the handle on the left side of the grinder, and the right side of the grinder if you're left-handed. In order to grind a deck or frame board, clamp one end of the board securely to the bench, leaving the end of the board hanging over the end of the bench by a few inches. Once this is done, you can begin to grind the top surface of the board. You'll notice it takes very little effort to clean all the splinters, glue, paint and anything else stuck on the board. Proceed using light pressure, just enough to see clean wood. Also, grind the vertical end of the board hanging over the bench. When you get close to the clamp you'll need to stop grinding, remove the clamp and reposition it on the other end of the board. After that, finish grinding the surface and the other end. After this is done turn the board over and clean up the underside in the same manner. To finish grinding the edges you'll need to place the board in the Bench Vise securely. Do not attempt to hold the board with your hand and grind the edge – the grinder is just too powerful, and if you try this you may injure yourself. After you finish grinding the board use the Elmer's wood filler and knife to fill any remaining cracks or holes. By working this way, the putty will have a chance to dry while you're grinding the next board. The main reason to fill them one at a time, is because when you're finished grinding you will begin belt sanding. By the time you start the putty on the last board, the first board will be dry enough to sand. STEP 3 SANDING When all the grinding and filling is finished, we'll begin sanding by clamping the first board to the table or bench the same way as when grinding. Unlike grinding, the belt sanding is only done on the top surface and the edges of the board. Using the 3 x 24 belt sander with 80 grit paper, sand the surface of the board using a back and forth motion until all the circular marks are removed. Once again, if you notice any fine cracks or holes after belt sanding, fill them with the Elmer's wood filler. Sometimes the sanding process removes a little bit too much filler. After all the belt sanding is completed, the next step will be to finish sand each one. To begin finish sanding, I recommend the dual action air sander with 120 grit paper because it does a better job than other types of sanders. It surpasses belt sanders in quality of finish, and orbital sanders because of the faster cutting action. The finish sanding process is done using the bench or table and clamps are not required. The process is simple. All that's required is to sand both surfaces, edges, and ends including the corners thoroughly until smooth. Don't worry about the corners being

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uneven. Any unevenness looks natural when the deck is finished. Using the air gun, blow off each piece after it's been finish sanded to remove all dust particles. Stack the boards as they're finished and you'll be ready for the next phase! TOOLS & SUPPLIES These are the recommended tools and supplies to complete this phase of work:

• Air Gun, 150 psi, 5-1/4", 20 scfm • Painters Tool, 6-In-1 • Putty Knife, 1 1/4", Stiff Handle Nylon, Stiff Blade • Wood Chisel Set, 3 PC • Combination Square, With Zinc Head, 12 Inches, Level Vial and Scriber • Air Dual-Action Sander, 6" • Alternate: Porter Cable Electric Random Orbit Sander, 3.5 A, 5" Dia • Right Angle Sander/Grinder, 4.5" No-Load RPM 11, 000 • CRL 14” Jorgensen® JC3 Wood Clamps 14” x 9-1/2” • Jorgensen Heavy Duty Steel Bar Clamp 3700 3" x 30" • Dewalt Air Compressor, 1.6 HP, 120V, 200 psi or equivalent • Camel Grinding Wheels, 60 Grit, Z/A - Zirconia Alumina, 4-1/2" x 7/8", T-27 • Sander, Belt, 3" X 24" In No Load SFPM 155 • 3M 9182NA 6-Inch 120-Grain Fine Grit Sanding Disc Adhesive-Backed (5-Pack) • 3M 81412 3" X 24" 80 Grit Power Sanding Belts, Purple • 3M Pro-Pak Tri-M-ite Fre-Cut Sanding Sheets, 320A-Grit, 9" x 11" • Elmer’s Carpenters Stainable Wood Putty • Wood Glue, Titebond III, with applicator bottle • Wood Filler, Elmer's Carpenters, stainable • Water Bucket and rags

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CHAPTER 4 REASSEMBLE FRAME

This is a very satisfying phase of your factory cart restoration. You have gotten through some of the most difficult and tedious work of this project. From here on, the work will be very exciting as you start to see the results of your hard work. Congratulations! Let's make a fresh start for this phase. Make sure to clean off your work bench and work table. We'll be working with the frame parts first so you can retrieve them from the stack of parts and put them on your workbench. The factory cart frame consists of the following five Red or White Oak components: 2 ea. Side Beams with rabbets on each end 1-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 48" 1 ea. Center Beam 1-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 45-1/4" 2 ea. End Beams 1-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 21-1/4" STEP 1 POSITION the END BEAMS Inspect the beams to determine the set up configuration. Begin with the two End Beams spaced 48" apart with one on each end of the bench. Make sure each End Beam is positioned upright, the four caster bolt holes closest to the table with the good side out. STEP 2 POSITION the SIDE BEAMS Position the two Side Beams on the bench upright with the two axle mount bolt holes closest to the table. The good faces should be to the outside and the rabbets should join with the End Beams. Using two Jorgensen Bar Clamp 3700, clamp the Side Beams to the End Beams. Offset them so they don't interfere with drilling through the face of the Side Beams. STEP 3 PREDRILL the SIDE BEAMS In most cases restored beams require predrilling additional nail holes in the seasoned hard oak wood sides. This is accomplished one corner at a time using the #6, 9/64" Countersink in a Drill Bit Holder and a 3/8" Variable Speed Drill. Predrill a minimum of one new hole per corner in approximately the center of the board.

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STEP 4 NAIL the SIDE BEAMS Nail the corners of the Side Beams to the End Beams with one nail in the middle of each board, in the hole that you predrilled. After nailing the corners remove the two clamps. For this step you'll use the Curved-Claw Hammer and the 10 D 3" Smooth Box Nails. Inspect the remaining Side Beam end corners to determine if either the top or bottom nail holes need wood putty and or glue cleaned out. If needed, use the countersink bit and drill run it through the center of the existing nail holes. Complete the nailing of each Side Beam to the End Beam. STEP 5 POSITION the CENTER BEAM Position the Center Beam inside the assembled cart frame on the bench upright, with the two axle mount bolt holes closest to the table. These two holes are not used to support the axle. The holes were drilled at the time the cart was built because all side beams including Center Beams were first cut to 48" then drilled before end trimming and rabbets were cut. This was done to save a step sorting them for higher quality beams for sides. If they weren't used for sides they would be end trimmed by 2-3/4" and used for the Center Beam. STEP 6 NAIL the CENTER BEAM Place the Center Beam in between the End Beams with the axle mount holes closest to the table. Run the countersink bit through the center of the existing nail holes in the End Beam on one end only. After you complete the predrilling, nail the Center Beam through the End Beam. Repeat the process on the other end to complete the assembly. For this step you'll use the Curved-Claw Hammer and the 10 D 3" Smooth Box Nails. TOOLS and SUPPLIES To assemble the cart frame you will need a 2' x 6' work bench for assembling the frame along with the following:

• Senco FinishPro 10, 1/2" to 1", 23-Gauge Micro Pinner • Curved-Claw Hammer, Steel, 20 Oz, Smooth • Johnson Straight Edge, Alum, 1/8", 1/16" Graduations, 48" • Grip-Rite #10-1/4 2" 6D Bright Steel Smooth Box Nails (5 lb.-Pack) • Grip-Rite #10-1/2 3" 10D Steel Bright Finish Smooth Box Nails (1 lb.-Pack) • Combination Square, With Zinc Head, 12 Inches, Level Vial and Scriber • Jorgensen Heavy Duty Steel Bar Clamp 3700 3" x 30" • Countersink #6, 9/64" Dia Drill bit • Holder, Hex 1/4" • Pistol Grip Drill, 6 A, 3/8" Variable Speed, Reversing Trigger • Rustoleum Flat Enamel Color: 239084 - Flat Brown • Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant

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CHAPTER 5 REFINISH FRAME & DECK BOARDS

To begin the finish process you'll need to set up in a well-ventilated area, such as a garage or warehouse with a roll up door on one end or better yet both ends. Caution: make certain there is not a gas water heater or any other gas heating system with pilot lights burning in the garage or warehouse area, for the reason that many finish materials are highly flammable. Air circulation is also very important and necessary to move fumes out of the air space while at the same time speeding the drying process. A good commercial model fan is recommended for the job. For safety and health reasons HVLP paint spraying equipment is recommended over conventional spray gun equipment. The HVLP uses a turbine unlike a conventional spray gun which uses compressed air. The HVLP works the same as a conventional gun, but with low pressure verses high pressure, which creates much less fumes and overspray. See the recommended Tools and Supplies required to Stain and Finish the Cart Frame and Deck Boards at the end of this Chapter. STEP 1 PREPARATION Set up one pair of sawhorses 46-48" apart and stage the cart frame on the horses for staining, lettering, and finishing. Set up a second pair 8-10' apart and lay 2 each 2 x 4 x 8'-10' wood framing studs 24" apart between the 2 horses. Place the deck boards on the 2 x 4's side by side with the top side of the deck boards facing up. Set up a third pair 46-48" apart and lay a piece of shop plywood 3/4" x 24" x 48" across the horses. This table is to be used for staining the deck boards and mixing finish materials. STEP 2 CLEAN the SURFACE Before you do this step it's a good idea to put on your Safety Glasses. Then with your Air Compressor and the Air Gun, blow off all dust particles on the frame and deck boards. STEP 3 TOUCH UP the KNOTS and REPAIRS Shake up the Touch-Up Markers and use them to stain all the filled knot holes and cracks. This will include all the visible areas on the outside face of the frame, and the face of the deck boards. Use care to apply stain only to the filled areas. The stain pen is darker than the cart stain and disguises the putty to make it appear as natural wood coloration. Allow to dry.

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STEP 4 STAIN the CART WOOD SURFACES Before the staining process begins, vacuum the floor space removing all saw dust and dirt. On the mixing and staining table, using your can opener, carefully open a quart can of Golden Oak Varathane Wood Stain (Note: this stain is the color we have determined to be the closest match to what this cart would have looked like new, and provides a very pleasing golden color. If you have a different color that you prefer you should use that. Always do a test sample before proceeding). Use a Paint Mixing Stick to carefully stir the stain to avoid spilling, and mix it well before using. When finished mixing select a Painter's Rag and cut one to about 12" long. Fold the rag to about 4"x4" and then dip it completely in the stain after squeezing excess stain back into the can. Working from the inside of the cart frame, rub the beams evenly with the stain, soaking the stain rag as necessary to replenish the stain. Next, stain the top and the sides of the frame evenly. Finally, flip the cart frame and stain the bottom edges. Place the Circulator Fan, so it blows directly at the cart from a distance. This will accelerate the drying of the wood stain. STEP 5 STAIN the DECK BOARDS While the stain on the frame is drying you can begin to stain the deck boards. Take one board at a time from the sawhorses to the stain and mixing table. Here you will stain all sides and the edges of the deck board, then place the face side down on the sawhorses. The reason we place the face side down is because you will spray the backside first. Continue staining all the deck boards placing them on the sawhorses in the same manner until finished. STEP 6 PAINT the LETTERING By this time the cart frame should be dry enough to paint the letters. Turn the fan positioning it to blow on the deck boards from a distance and away from the frame. On the sawhorses turn the frame up on one side. Place the Lineberry-N. Wilkesboro. N.C. lettering template on the side of the frame facing up. Make sure the template is oriented correctly with the two axle mount holes below the lettering. Otherwise, if you do this step incorrectly the Lineberry letters will be upside down when you reassemble the wheels on the cart frame. Once you have the template laid out on the frame get the can of Rustoleum Flat Black Spray Paint and shake it thoroughly. Now hold the template firmly in place with one hand, and begin to spray the letters with your other hand. Carefully slide your hand down along the template as you proceed. Keep the template tight against the frame and firmly in place. Be very careful not to move it as you proceed. When finished and dry, turn the frame over and repeat the process on the other side. Again, be sure to line up the letters correctly in relation to the axle mount holes on the center bottom of the side frame.

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STEP 7 MIX the FINISH LACQUER Before you begin it's time for a new pair of Nitrile Gloves and put on your Safety Glasses. Open the SHER-WOOD® LOVOC Lacquer using a Paint Can Opener. Starting with a new clean Paint Mixing Stick thoroughly mix the lacquer stirring slowly and carefully so as not to splash it on yourself. After the lacquer is mixed up thoroughly use a Paint Strainer and pour 25 oz. through the strainer into the 2.5 qt. Plastic Bucket. Open the can of Lacquer Thinner and add 4 ounces to the 25 ounces of lacquer. Next, open the can of Retarder Thinner and add 2 ounces to the lacquer and thinner and stir them well. Use your Paint Strainer to pour the mixed lacquer, thinner, and retarder through the strainer into the HVLP paint gun and seal the gun. Clean the mixing bucket with a clean rag and a couple ounces of lacquer thinner. Close all of the cans securely when finished. STEP 8 APPLY the FINISH LACQUER Test the spray pattern of the gun on a scrap piece of wood, adjusting to the desired setting. When you’re comfortable with the gun you can begin spraying the inside of the cart frame first. The inside is not exposed after the cart is assembled so the finish job inside the frame will be sprayed only with two thin even coats and no sanding between. The exposed face of the frame and deck will have a total of three coats on completion. After you have completed spraying one thin even coat inside continue and spray a coat the same around the outside including the top edge of the frame. Next, spray the back side and all of the edges and ends of the deck boards with one thin even coat. After spraying is complete, place the Fan so it blows directly at the cart frame and deck boards from a distance. This will accelerate the drying of the lacquer. In about 15-30 minutes, depending on the heat and humidity, check the boards to make sure they are dry. Recoat all of the same areas of the frame and deck boards with a second thin even coat. Allow everything to dry for an hour. STEP 9 RECOAT the FRAME and DECK BOARDS Turn the frame and all the deck boards over and spray a thin even coat around the top edge of the frame, and then the face, edges, and ends of the deck boards. Afterward, place the Circulator Fan so it blows directly at the deck boards and the frame. Allow everything to dry for half an hour and repeat the process spraying another thin even coat over all the boards and frame. Allow everything to dry for an hour.

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STEP 10 SANDING the CART FRAME and DECK BOARDS The next step requires sanding the cart frame and all the deck boards. This is done using a piece of 320A-Grit sandpaper. Fold the paper in half down the middle bending back and forth along the crease. Then tear the sheet in half, fold it over half and fold it over half again. The piece folded up will equal 4-1/2" x 2-3/4". The frame is sanded only on the outside face, top, and bottom edges, and the deck boards are sanded on the face, edges and ends only. Sand the frame in the direction of the grain lightly, just enough to remove the nibs. When the frame sanding is completed repeat the process with all of the deck boards. As the sandpaper loads up, fold it over using a new side. After the sanding is finished the surface and edges of everything will be dusty with white lacquer powder. Note: The Final Finish will be discussed in Chapter 7. TOOLS and SUPPLIES To complete the processes of staining, lettering and finishing your cart frame you'll need the following Tools and Supplies.

• Paint Zoom HVLP Paint Sprayer Kit or any Equal HVLP Type Spray Equipment • Alternate Professional Equipment Devilbliss HVLP Spray Gun, Gravity • 3M(TM) 6000 Series Half Mask Respirator • Chemical Cartridge, Green, Bayonet, PK 2 • Alternate Mask 3M(TM) 5000 Series Half Mask OVP95 Disposable Half Mask Respirator • Flat Paint Brush Set (5-Piece) • Speedaire Hose, Air, 3/8" ID x 1/4" NPT, 25 Ft, Red • Stanley Knife/Other Knife • Dewalt Air Compressor, 1.6 HP, 120V, 200 psi or equivalent • 3M 9182NA 6-Inch 120-Grain Fine Grit Sanding Disc Adhesive-Backed (5-Pack) • Air Dual-Action Sander, 6". • Alternate Electric Sander Porter Cable Random Orbit Sander, 3.5 A, 5" Dia, PSA • Two Piece Foldable Saw Horse Set • Dayton Air Circulator, 20", 3700 cfm, 115V • Air Gun, 150 psi, 5-1/4", 20 scfm • GenTran 25 ft. 14/1 Yellow Extension Cord with Standard 15 Amp 3-Prongs • GE 3 Grounded Outlet Adapter Heavy Duty – Orange

• Workforce Tack Cloths • Cone Paint Strainers 5-3/4", 110-120 mesh (4-Pack) • 3M Pro-Pak Tri-M-ite Fre-Cut Sanding Sheets, 320A-Grit, 9" x 11" • Fil-Stik™ Putty Sticks Statesman Oak • Varathane Touch-Up Markers Color: 215360 - Color Group 9 • HDX Disposable Nitrile Gloves • Lacquer Thinner – K120 • Sherwin Williams Retarder Thinner – K27 005308614 - Gallon • SHER-WOOD® LOVOC Lacquer T70F63 Dull Rubbed Effect • Paint Thinner

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• Varathane Wood Stains • Paint Mixing Sticks • Rustoleum Flat Black Spray Paint • 1 lb. T-Shirt Knit Painter's Rags • Lineberry-N. Wilkesboro. N.C. lettering template • Project Select Paint Can and Bottle Opener • Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant • Leaktite Multi-Mix 2.5 qt. Plastic Bucket

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CHAPTER 6 INSTALL WHEELS, HARDWARE & DECK

At this phase we continue to make great progress toward the completion of your project. A lot of the hard work is behind you and the care you have exercised will become evident. We'll prepare for the next step turning the cart frame over on the sawhorses so that the Lineberry letters are upside down. Place all of your wheels, castings and hardware on your sawhorse table alongside the cart. Make sure you have your caster wheels installed in the mount, with the cotter pin and set screw in place as instructed in Chapter 2, Step 8. STEP 1 INSTALLING the LARGE WHEELS Stand the two large cart wheels up on the floor next to the cart frame which is staged on the horses. Take the axle from the hardware storage and spray the ends with White Lithium Grease with Cerflon. Slide the end of the axle into one of the wheels as far as it will go, then slide the other wheel on the other end of the axle the same way. Next, slide an axle mount casting onto the axle that is sticking out beyond each of the two wheels. To fasten the axle mount casting to the frame, you'll need 4 each of the 2 1/2" carriage bolts, split washers, and hex nuts. Put the hardware on your assembly table within reach of the cart frame. You will also need your 3/8” Drive Ratchet (3/8" Air Ratchet if you have it) with a 9/16" socket. Caution: the wheels, axle, and mounts combined are very heavy. If you are strong you may be able to handle the installation by yourself. I always recommend doing this job with a helper. The reason is that it is not only the weight but also the task of lifting and placing the parts properly. When you are ready, proceed very carefully. With both your hands on the axle, pick up the wheels straight off the floor. Use care not to tilt one way or the other. If you do tilt the axle, a wheel and casting will slide off the axle onto the floor, damaging it and worse than this, possibly injuring your foot. Once you have the axle and wheels elevated over the frame, carefully lower the assembly down onto the frame, so each mount slides down on the outside face of each side frame. Very carefully turn each wheel so a wheel hole lines up with the bolt hole in the side frame. From the backside of the wheel feed your carriage bolt through and into the bolt hole in the side frame. Next repeat this step, placing the other three bolts through the side frames. After this is finished add a split washer on each one of the bolts, then hand tighten a hex nut on each bolt. Using your ratchet and 9/16" socket tighten each bolt snug. Do not over torque the nuts because it's possible to crack a casting this way.

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STEP 2 INSTALLING the CASTER WHEELS We have two casters with mounts to install on the End Beams. Place the fully assembled casters on the assembly table, staged next to the cart frame on the horses. You'll also need 8 ea of the 2 1/2" carriage bolts, split washers, and hex nuts. Put the hardware on your assembly table within reach of the cart frame. You will also need your 3/8” drive Ratchet (3/8" Air Ratchet if you have it) with a 9/16" socket. Caution: The caster and mount assembly are fairly heavy. Help is not required to install, but you'll need to hold the caster with one hand, while adding the split washers and hex nuts to secure the caster in place. Otherwise the assembly could slide off the carriage bolts onto the floor, damaging it and possibly injuring your foot. From the back side of the End Beam feed 4 ea 2 1/2" carriage bolts through the holes in the frame. Before you begin to install the caster, I recommend to place your split washers and hex nuts in groups on the sawhorse along with your 3/8” drive Ratchet (3/8" Air Ratchet if you have it) with a 9/16" socket. Once the bolts are in the frame, with the caster in one hand and the wheel at the top, your other hand will be holding the carriage bolts in the frame from the backside. Slide the Caster Mount over the bolts. Once the bolts are through the caster, using one hand, hold the caster in place while adding a split washer and hex nut on each bolt, then hand tighten. Using your ratchet and 9/16" socket, tighten each bolt snug. Do not over torque the nuts because it's possible to crack a casting this way. STEP 3 INSTALL the CORNER BRACKETS There are four Corner Brackets to install on the cart frame corners. Place the corners on the assembly table staged next to the cart frame on the horses. You'll also need 4 ea Threaded Rods, 8 ea of the 2 1/4" carriage bolts, split washers, and hex nuts. Put the hardware on your assembly table within reach of the cart frame. You will also need your 3/8” Drive Ratchet with a 9/16" Socket. Beginning with the Threaded Rods, slide each one through one side of the cart frame into the opposite side, flushing the end of the rod with the surface of the side frame. The rods must be flush on one side of the frame in order to install the Corner Brackets on that side. Once this is complete, you can begin the installation. As we have noted earlier, there are right side brackets, and left side brackets. Be sure you have the correct one and it is oriented properly on the frame. The Corner Bracket will be upside down the same as the frame. Place the Corner Bracket on the frame holding it with one hand. Then grasp one of the Threaded Rods with your other hand while holding the corner and slide it back through the side of the Corner Bracket making sure the Threaded Rods’ end is now flush with the opposite or left corner. Slide the second Threaded Rod through the casting.

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Next, from the inside of the end frame feed a 2-1/4" carriage bolt through the Corner Bracket. Then slide the second bolt through the Corner Bracket. After this is finished add a split washer and hex nut to each bolt end and hand tighten only, at this time. Repeat the process and install the left-hand Corner Bracket in exactly the same manner, hand tightening the nuts only. When hand tightening the nuts on the Threaded Rod's, make sure the threaded ends beyond the nuts are equal in length on the right and left sides. Repeat the processes and install the left and right hand Corner Brackets on the other end of the cart. When finished, using a 3/8” drive Ratchet with a 9/16" socket, continue by tightening each of the two nuts on each of the Corner Brackets Next you will need a 9/16" Combination Wrench and a 3/8” Drive Ratchet with a 9/16" Socket. With the box end of the combo wrench on one side of the Threaded Rod and the ratchet with the socket on the other side, begin to tighten the nut making sure the threaded ends on both sides remain equal in length after tightening. Repeat the process on the other three Threaded Rods. After you're complete with the process use a ratchet and socket to tighten up each one of the nuts on the cart, being careful not to over tighten which can cause a casting to crack. STEP 4 INSTALLING the DECK BOARDS This is another one of the exciting steps in that we are going to turn the cart over, possibly for the last time. At this stage we have finished the work on the bottom of the cart and it's time to work toward completion of the assembly process. The cart is getting heavy again, with the addition of the cast iron parts. It will now weigh up to 150 lbs. so you will need help to turn it over. It's not just the weight, it gets a little awkward at this point and you wouldn't want to damage anything. Once the cart is setting upright, we will begin to lay out the deck boards. Retrieve the boards from your parts storage and place them on your work table. If your cart has notched End Boards, that will determine where those two go. That notch originally allowed a stake to fit into the Corner Bracket which provided a means to push and steer the cart. There are two important factors in this step. One is the spacing between the boards, and the other is the overhang past the side frame. First we'll address the spacing. Board Spacing The spacing varies slightly on each cart. This is because of the random width boards, shrinkage, and the original manufacturing tolerance. The idea is that we want the spacing to be reasonably equal between all the boards. It will normally range from almost touching to 1/8".

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The End Boards will need to be placed from 3/8” to 1/2" from each end of the cart frame. This allows clearance for the Caster shaft cotter pin which is designed to rotate. Lay each End Board on the frame starting with 3/8” to 1/2” from the outside face of each End Beam. Then lay the boards in between along the cart top. Choose the order you like, arranging them by width. They are usually installed in a random width pattern. Once this is done you can adjust the width of the gaps between the deck boards. When you have determined a reasonable spacing, and allowing for a gap on the end boards from the end, it's almost time to start some nailing. We'll begin by "pinning" the boards in place temporarily. From now until the time the boards are finally secure, it's important that you not bump or disturb their position. If you do, you will need to adjust them to make sure the spacing is correct. Deck Board Overhang The next factor to consider is the overhang on the sides of the cart, which is usually about 1-1/2" per side. Measure one of the end board's overhang and adjust it to equal distance on each side. To secure it in place use the Senco Micro Pinner with 1" nails. When you have nailed one End Board, go to the other end and repeat this step with the opposite End Board. At this point you now have two End Boards with which you can align all the Middle Boards. Lay the Johnson Straight Edge along the end of the Middle Boards, while contacting each of the End Boards. This will perfectly align the end of all of the boards. Confirm that your board gap spacing is all still correct and then you are ready to start pinning the boards in place. Start in the middle and place two nails in each board, then go down the left and right with two nails per board. After the nailing is complete gently rub your hand over the surface to confirm that all the nails set below the surface. If you find one that did not, use the smallest pin punch to set it. A fill stick will take care of any indent. Final Nailing The boards are all now temporarily fastened in position. The pin nails are small and the boards are not perfectly secure, so take care not to bump them or they could move. The final nailing will begin after predrilling into the beam frame below. We'll use a 3/8" Variable Speed Drill, with a 1/8" Titanium Split Point Drill Bit. The drilling depth will be approximately 1/4" shorter than the nails. This is a critical step because the nail is likely to bend if the hole is not deep enough, and will not have enough holding power if it's too deep. Take care not to allow the drill chuck to mar the surface of the deck board. Begin drilling along the center line of the cart and drill through the existing holes in the deck boards. After the center is drilled, continue with each side. After all the drilling is complete, we will place a 2" 6D Bright Steel Smooth Box Nail in all of the predrilled holes. They can then be driven flush to the surface with the 20 Oz Curved-Claw Hammer. When the nails are all driven flush to the surface (take care not

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to over-drive and leave a hammer dent) you will use the 1/4" Pin Punch and sink the nail head below the board face approximately 1/8". TOOLS and SUPPLIES These tools and supplies are needed for the mounting of the hardware and attaching the deck boards to the frame:

• 21005 1/4" Black Oxide Pin Punch • Senco FinishPro 10, 1/2" to 1" 23-Gauge Micro Pinner • Curved-Claw Hammer, Steel, 20 Oz, Smooth • Johnson Straight Edge, Alum, 1/8", 1/16" Graduations, 48" • Irwin Steel Framing Square 16" x 24" • Countersink #6, 9/64" Dia Drill bit • Holder, Hex 1/4" • Pistol Grip Drill, 6 A, 3/8" Variable Speed Reversing Trigger • Dewalt 1/8" Titanium Split Point Drill Bits 2 Pack • Vise-Grip 5" Curved Jaw Locking Pliers • Channel Lock 6" Tongue and Groove Pliers • Combination Wrench, 9/16", 8-7/8" OAL • Combo Wrench, 12 Pt., Full Polish, 9/16" • 3/8” Drive Ratchet with 9/16" socket • 3/8" Air Wrench, Ratchet • Air Gun, 150 psi, 5-1/4", 20 scfm • Dewalt Air Compressor, 1.6 HP, 120V, 200 psi or equivalent • GenTran 25 ft. 14/1 Yellow Extension Cord with Standard 15 Amp 3-Prongs • GE 3 Grounded Outlet Adapter Heavy Duty – Orange • Speedaire Hose, Air, 3/8" ID x 1/4" NPT, 25 Ft, Red • Two Piece Foldable Saw Horse Set

• Grip-Rite #10-1/4 2" 6D Bright Steel Smooth Box Nails (5 lb.-Pack) • White Lithium Grease with Cerflon • Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant

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CHAPTER 7 FINAL FINISH

We have arrived at one of the most fulfilling phases of any project, the last few steps before completion. You have much to be proud of at this point, with the major hard work behind you and just a short ways from completing your project. The "Final Finish" as we call it, is one that puts the gleam on your Factory Cart and gives a silky smooth touch. Let's get started so you can enjoy your craftsmanship and share it with others. STEP 1 PREPARE DECK for FINAL FINISH We begin by sanding the nailed off deck boards using a piece of 320A grit sandpaper. Sanding with the grain go over the entire deck surface including all the edges and ends. We've now come to another important juncture in your Factory Cart Restoration. There's only a few more steps between now and completion. As with each and every step, they all hold significance. This one is simple enough. It is to wipe the deck boards clean with a Tack Cloth. The cloth is designed to be slightly sticky in order to remove the smallest amount of dirt, particles, lint, or any contaminant that would otherwise show up in the finish. The cloth is folded into many layers. Start with the deck boards and by using one continuous motion from one end of each board to the other, wipe in one direction only. Do not rub back and forth or go backwards. Continue this process along the top of the deck, cleaning one board at a time. Turn the tack rag and refold it to keep a fresh and clean layer. When you've completed this step the cart deck will be clean but still requires going over it blowing it off using the Air Gun STEP 2 PAINT the NAIL HEADS A clever trick to give the Deck Board nail heads an old rusty look is this next technique. Place a small amount of the Rustoleum Flat Brown in a can lid. Use a small pony tail artist brush and coat each sunken nail head on the deck boards with the paint. Use care not to get the paint on the surrounding wood, but if you do, wipe it immediately with a rag with some paint thinner and it will clean off easily. Allow to dry for approximately 15 minutes. The result will be a uniform aged appearance, a small detail, but one that makes a difference. Remember, it's the small details and steps that make up the completed job.

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STEP 3 FILL CRACKS and DEFECTS We have one more opportunity to check for any remaining small cracks and defects that you don't want to show when the final finish is complete. If you find some that still need filled, use the Fil-Stik™ Putty Sticks. Fill the spot in question then clean it off and smooth it with a small amount of Paint Thinner on a rag to clean it up and complete the process. STEP 4 APPLY the FINISH LACQUER It is not recommended to use the fan during or after this step. We will be spraying the fourth and final coat on only the deck boards. There should be enough mixed lacquer left over from the first quart mixed for used when spraying the frame and deck boards. However if not then mix the Lacquer, Lacquer Thinner, and the Retarder Thinner in exactly the same way as you did for the first coats you applied in Chapter 5, Step 7. There are detailed instructions listed there for you to follow. As with your last lacquer coating, test the spray pattern of the gun on a scrap piece of wood, adjusting to the desired setting. When you’re comfortable with the gun you can begin spraying. Use a slight angle with the spray gun in order to coat the edges of the deck boards first and being careful not to spray the hardware. Next you will be spraying lengthwise along each deck board from right to left and left to right. Use a steady motion and spray to a full and complete coverage of the deck only. STEP 5 TREAT WASHERS NUTS BOLT ENDS and TOUCH UP Using the Dupli-Color spray all the threaded bolt ends nuts and washers. The coating will blacken the hardware to match the iron castings. Due to the assembly process there may be some scuffing on the Corner Brackets and the Caster Mounts. It's an easy fix because we'll just spray a small amount of the same material we used for the finish, the Dupli-Color Rust Fix. Inspect the hardware for any scuffs and lightly spray just enough to cover. To prevent the possibility of any overspray on the wood you can hold a small cardboard shield in place next to the work area. The Dupli-Color product will blend in with the existing finish so that is not a problem. TOOLS and SUPPLIES To complete the process of the Final Finish you will need the following supplies:

• Paint Zoom HVLP Paint Sprayer Kit or any Equal HVLP Type Spray Equipment • Alternate Professional Equipment DEVILBISS HVLP Spray Gun, Gravity • 3M(TM) 6000 Series Half Mask Respirator • Chemical Cartridge, Green, Bayonet, PK 2

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• Alternate Mask 3M(TM) 5000, Half Mask OVP95 Disposable Half Mask Respirator • DAYTON Air Circulator, 20", 3700 cfm, 115V

• Workforce Tack Cloths • Cone Paint Strainers 5-3/4” 110-120 mesh (4-Pack) • Fil-Stik™ Putty Sticks Statesman Oak • Flat Paint Brush Set (5-Piece) • HDX Disposable Nitrile Gloves • 3M Pro-Pak Tri-M-ite Fre-Cut Sanding Sheets, 320A-Grit, 9" x 11" • Sherwin Williams Retarder Thinner - K27 005308614 - Gallon • Sher-Wood® LOVOC Lacquer T70F63 Dull Rubbed Effect • Lacquer Thinner - K120 • Paint Thinner, Sherwin-Williams, Startex • Rustoleum Flat Enamel Color: 239084 - Flat Brown • Dupli-Color Rust Fix • 1 lb. T-Shirt Knit Painter's Rags • Paint Mixing Sticks • Leaktite Multi-Mix 2.5 qt. Plastic Bucket

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TOOLS and SUPPLIES Chapter 1

Recommended tools and supplies used in Factory Cart Restoration, including description, manufacturer, product number, purpose of use, and a website link to a reputable supplier.

Disassembly Chapter 1

Cold Chisel Set (3-Piece) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=cold+chissels&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to wedge behind castings when removing nuts to prevent carriage bolt from spinning

Vise-Grip 5 in. Curved Jaw Locking Pliers http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-Vise-Grip-5-in-Curved-Jaw-Locking-Pliers-902L3/100048602#.Ub3eqOdZq7w Purpose, used to hold 3/8” threaded rod from spinning when removing nuts from corner castings

Channellock 6 in. Tongue and Groove Pliers http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=channel+locks&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove cotter pins from castor housing

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=cold+chissels&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=cold+chissels&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-Vise-Grip-5-in-Curved-Jaw-Locking-Pliers-902L3/100048602#.Ub3eqOdZq7w


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=channel+locks&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


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8 in. End-Cutting Pliers http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=dike+nipper%20pliers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove nails and staples in deck and frame boards and to cut cotter pins

5” Needle Nose Pliers http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=needle+nose%20pliers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove nails from deck and frame boards

Combination Wrench, 9/16In., 8-7/8In. OAL http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Combination-Wrench-Item-5HL81?Pid=search Purpose, used to break and remove nuts from threaded rods loosening the other side with air ratchet

Combo Wrench, 12 Pt., Full Polish, 9/16 in http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Combination-Wrench-22DL09?Pid=search Purpose, used together with 9/16 combination wrench to remove nuts from the through bolt rods

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=dike+nipper%20pliers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=needle+nose%20pliers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Combination-Wrench-Item-5HL81?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Combination-Wrench-22DL09?Pid=search


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33/8" X 5/16" Thin Wrench http://www.thinwrench.info/47-3-8-x-5-16-double-open-end-wrench.html Purpose, used to slip behind carriage bolt head to prevent spinning in the frame when removing nut

3/8” drive Ratchet w/9/16 socket http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=3%2F8%E2%80%9D+drive%20Ratchet%20w%2F9%2F16%20socket&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove nuts and tighten nuts if a pneumatic air ratchet is not available

Air Wrench, Ratchet, 3/8 In. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Air-Ratchet-Wrench-5ZL11?Pid=search Purpose, used for removing and tightening nuts on cast iron cart parts used with 9/16 socket 3/8” drive

Sledge Hammer, 3 lb., Fiberglass w/Grip http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NUPLA-Sledge-Hammer-6D011?Pid=search Purpose, used for removing cart deck boards tapping from the underside along the edge of the frame

Reciprocating Saw Kit, 0 to 2700 spm http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BOSCH-Reciprocating-Saw-Kit-4GAE7?Pid=search Purpose, used for cutting off nails stuck in the frame/cut off rusted stubborn stripped bolts

http://www.thinwrench.info/47-3-8-x-5-16-double-open-end-wrench.html

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=3%2F8%E2%80%9D+drive%20Ratchet%20w%2F9%2F16%20socket&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Air-Ratchet-Wrench-5ZL11?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NUPLA-Sledge-Hammer-6D011?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BOSCH-Reciprocating-Saw-Kit-4GAE7?Pid=search

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White Lithium Grease with Cerflon http://www.lowes.com/pd_235861-1409-L616_ Purpose, used on axel ends before assembling axel mount to quiet wheels

BLASTER Penetrating Solvent, HD, Size 11 Oz http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BLASTER-Penetrating-Solvent-4LRF8?Pid=search Purpose, used to free up badly corroded nuts and bolts

http://www.lowes.com/pd_235861-1409-L616_

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BLASTER-Penetrating-Solvent-4LRF8?Pid=search

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Recommended tools and supplies used in Factory Cart Restoration, including description, manufacturer, product number, purpose of use, and a website link to a reputable supplier

Clean, Repair & Refinish Hardware Chapter 2

Vermont American 21666 Size 1/4 x 20 NC Tap No 7 Drill Bit Combo http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21666-Drill-Combo/dp/B000CFNPGE Purpose, used to drill tap castor housing casting for set screw for locking castor wheel and leveling cart

Crescent 4 in. Adjustable Wrench http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=crescent+wrenches&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to turn die to thread hole drilled in the castor housing casting

Mill File, American, Bastard Cut, 10 In L http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Mill-File-1NFN2?Pid=search Purpose, used for filing cut threaded replacement rod ends and damaged bolts when removing nuts

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21666-Drill-Combo/dp/B000CFNPGE

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=crescent+wrenches&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Mill-File-1NFN2?Pid=search

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Leather Gloves, Leather Palm Type Split Striped Cotton Back Material, Safety Cuff http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Leather-Palm-Gloves-3ZL53?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect hands removing bolts/castings, grinding deck boards wire brushing castings

3M Flat Fold Healthcare Respirator, N95, PK10 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Flat-Fold-Disposable-Healthcare-Particulate-5VD49?Pid=search Purpose, used when grinding/sanding frame/deck boards brushing/grinding iron cart castings/wheels

Air Drill, General, Right Angle, 3/8 In. Free Speed 1800 rpm. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CHICAGO-PNEUMATIC-Right-Angle-Air-Drill-11C973?Pid=search Purpose, used with brush wheels to clean inside cast iron wheels

3" Shaft Mounted Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-brush-94014.html Purpose, used with air drill general right angle to clean around inside cart wheels

Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Safety-Glasses-5JE26?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 Purpose, used to protect one’s eyes when sawing grinding and sanding

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Leather-Palm-Gloves-3ZL53?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Flat-Fold-Disposable-Healthcare-Particulate-5VD49?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CHICAGO-PNEUMATIC-Right-Angle-Air-Drill-11C973?Pid=search

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-brush-94014.html

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Safety-Glasses-5JE26?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1


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WEILER Wheel Brush, 8 In http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WEILER-5X887?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 Purpose, used with 8” bench grinder to brush and strip clean cart cast iron castings and wheels

8" Bench Grinder http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bench-Grinder-8-Inch-4PC40?Pid=search Purpose, used with 8” wire brush wheels only on both sides for cleaning cart iron castings and wheels

Utility Brush Set http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=wire+brushes&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used after wire bench brushing to clean tight spots cart wheels/stake corners/castor mounts

3 in. x 15 in. Carbon-Wire Brush http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=wire+brushes&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All#/?c=1&Nao=24 Purpose, used prior to wire bench brushing to remove loose dirt cart wheels/stake corners

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WEILER-5X887?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WEILER-5X887?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bench-Grinder-8-Inch-4PC40?Pid=search

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=wire+brushes&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=wire+brushes&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=wire+brushes&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All#/?c=1&Nao=24



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J-B Weld 2 oz. J-B SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=jb+weld%20steel%20reinforced%20epoxy%20putty&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to fill holes in iron castings typically chipped wheels, corners and castor mounts

J-B Weld http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=jb+weld%20steel%20reinforced%20epoxy%20putty&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to repair cracked castings typically corner castings

Quick Steel http://www.amazon.com/Quicksteel-Steel-Reinforced-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B0068C2R78 Purpose, Alternate to fill holes in iron castings typically chipped wheels, corners and castor mounts

Stripping Large Gloves http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stripping-Large-Glove-FG-Paint-Tool-33200/203936005?keyword=3M+paint+stripping+gloves#.Ub3Tx-dZq7w Purpose, used when stripping paint off cast iron parts/wheels to protect your hands

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=jb+weld%20steel%20reinforced%20epoxy%20putty&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All






http://www.amazon.com/Quicksteel-Steel-Reinforced-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B0068C2R78

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stripping-Large-Glove-FG-Paint-Tool-33200/203936005?keyword=3M+paint+stripping+gloves#.Ub3Tx-dZq7w

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stripping-Large-Glove-FG-Paint-Tool-33200/203936005?keyword=3M+paint+stripping+gloves#.Ub3Tx-dZq7w

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Homax #3 12 Pad Steel Wool, Coarse Grade http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=coarse+steel%20wool&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used when stripping paint from cast iron parts and wheels

Natural China Bristle 2" Chip Brush http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-2-in-Chip-Brush-1500-2/100626098?keyword=natural+china+bristle+2%22+chip+brush#.Ub3RYOdZq7w Purpose, used to brush stain on cart frame and deck boards, also glue into cracks prior to clamping

3M™ Safest Stripper™ Paint and Varnish Remover http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripper-Varnish-Remover-10103/dp/B00119QNJG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3 Purpose, used to strip paint off cast iron parts non-toxic alternative to caustic paint/varnish removers

Dupli-Color Rust Fix http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustFix/ Purpose, used to coat cast iron castings/wheels after cleaning removes rust and restores black iron

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=coarse+steel%20wool&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-2-in-Chip-Brush-1500-2/100626098?keyword=natural+china+bristle+2%22+chip+brush#.Ub3RYOdZq7w

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-2-in-Chip-Brush-1500-2/100626098?keyword=natural+china+bristle+2%22+chip+brush#.Ub3RYOdZq7w

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripper-Varnish-Remover-10103/dp/B00119QNJG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustFix/

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Rustoleum Rust Reformer http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=365 Purpose, used to coat new zinc plated hardware including carriage bolts and threaded rods

Bench Vise, Utility, 6 1/2 In http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WILTON-Bench-Vise-4TK29?Pid=search Purpose, used to hold castor housing to drill and tap, also carriage bolts and rods to re-thread

Thread Tapping Cutting Oil Aerosol by CRC http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B003NTQCDE Purpose, used to Reduce heat friction ease cutting increase tool life for drilling castor housing set screw

Pistol Grip Drill, 6 A, 3/8 In Variable Speed Reversing Trigger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&op=search&Ntt=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used to pre-drill nail holes in cart frame/deck replacement boards, drill castor mount set screw

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=365

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WILTON-Bench-Vise-4TK29?Pid=search

http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B003NTQCDE

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&op=search&Ntt=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch=



Page 41

Curved-Claw Hammer, Steel, 20 Oz, Smooth http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VAUGHAN-CurvedClaw-Hammer-6CLR0?Pid=search Purpose, used to nail cart frame and re-attach deck boards

VERMONT AMERICAN Hexagon Die, Carbon Steel, RH, 3/8-16, NC http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VERMONT-AMERICAN-Hexagon-Die-2NWR8?Pid=search Purpose, used to rethread hardware through rods and carriage bolts

Thread Cutting Die Holder http://www.leonpaulusa.com/acatalog/Thread_Cutting_Die_Holder.html Purpose, used to hold thread cutting die


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VAUGHAN-CurvedClaw-Hammer-6CLR0?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VERMONT-AMERICAN-Hexagon-Die-2NWR8?Pid=search

http://www.leonpaulusa.com/acatalog/Thread_Cutting_Die_Holder.html



Page 42



Repair Frame and Deck Boards Chapter 3

Air Gun, 150 psi, 5-1/4 In. L, 20 scfm http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRECO-Air-Gun-5X786?Pid=search Purpose, used to blow dust off sanded cart frame and deck boards

Painters Tool, 6-In-1 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Painters-Tool-4YP28?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 Purpose, used for scrapping old hardening glue and other material from existing cart deck boards

Putty Knife, 1 1/4 In, Stiff Handle Nylon, Stiff Blade http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/STANLEY-Putty-Knife-1ARX3?Pid=search Purpose, used for applying wood putty to fill cracks and knot holes after glue and clamp repairs

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRECO-Air-Gun-5X786?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Painters-Tool-4YP28?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Painters-Tool-4YP28?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/STANLEY-Putty-Knife-1ARX3?Pid=search

Page 43

Wood Chisel Set, 3 PC http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Wood-Chisel-Set-4YR15?Pid=search Purpose, used to spread splits open on cart frame and deck boards to apply glue, also wood scrapping

Combination Square, With Zinc Head, 12 Inches, Level Vial and Scriber, Coated Steel Blade http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Combination-Square-6X996?Pid=search Purpose, used to mark sq. cut off lines, notched ends on replacement frame and deck boards

Air Dual-Action Sander, 6 In., 3/16 In. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&op=search&Ntt=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used to sand frame and deck boards after belt sanding w/ 120 grit paper

Alternate Electric Sander PORTER CABLE Random Orbit Sander, 3.5 A, 5 in Dia, PSA http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PORTER-CABLE-Random-Orbit-Sander-6FKH1?Pid=search Purpose, used to sand frame and deck boards after belt sanding w/120 grit paper

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Wood-Chisel-Set-4YR15?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Combination-Square-6X996?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&op=search&Ntt=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch=



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PORTER-CABLE-Random-Orbit-Sander-6FKH1?Pid=search

Page 44

Right Angle Sander/Grinder, 4.5 in No-Load RPM 11, 000 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Right-Angle-SanderGrinder-5TB85?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 Purpose, used to grind surfaces/edges/corners cart frame/deck boards to remove splinters, paint etc.

Camel Grinding Wheels http://www.cgwheels.com/HTMLs/flap-discs-and-wheels.aspx?c0=13127&bsp=13086 Purpose, used w/right angle grinder/sander to sand cart frame/deck boards surface, edge and corners

Sander, Belt, 3 X 24 in No Load SFPM 155 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=porter+cable+3x24+belt+sander&op=search&Ntt=porter+cable+3x24+belt+sander&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used for sanding frame/deck boards surface/edge after grind sand removing circular scratches

CRL 14” Jorgensen® JC3 Wood Clamps 14” x 9-1/2” http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=jorgensen%20clamp&brand=Jorgensen&page=2 Purpose, used to clamp spilt frame/deck boards, several clamps are necessary for this job in most cases

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Right-Angle-SanderGrinder-5TB85?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Right-Angle-SanderGrinder-5TB85?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

http://www.cgwheels.com/HTMLs/flap-discs-and-wheels.aspx?c0=13127&bsp=13086

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=porter+cable+3x24+belt+sander&op=search&Ntt=porter+cable+3x24+belt+sander&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch=



http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=jorgensen%20clamp&brand=Jorgensen&page=2

Page 45

Jorgensen Heavy Duty Steel Bar Clamp 3700 3" 30" http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v448-3906/clamps Purpose, used to clamp the frame together securely before nailing it together

DEWALT Air Compressor, 1.6 HP, 120V, 200 psi or equivalent http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-4HDW8?Pid=search Purpose, used for the operation of air tools including ratchet, sander, air nozzle paint sprayer

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-Gal-2-Pack-1416/203397133?keyword=tight+bond+glue#.UcFlwedZq7w Purpose, used to repair split cart frame/deck boards

3M 9182NA 6-Inch 120-Grain Fine Grit Sanding Disc Adhesive-Backed (5-Pack) http://www.amazon.com/3M-9182NA-120-Grain-Sanding-Adhesive-Backed/dp/B00004Z4B9 Purpose, used to sand cart frame and deck boards after belt sanding

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v448-3906/clamps

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-4HDW8?Pid=search

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-Gal-2-Pack-1416/203397133?keyword=tight+bond+glue#.UcFlwedZq7w

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-Gal-2-Pack-1416/203397133?keyword=tight+bond+glue#.UcFlwedZq7w

http://www.amazon.com/3M-9182NA-120-Grain-Sanding-Adhesive-Backed/dp/B00004Z4B9

Page 46

3M 81412 3" X 24" 80 Grit Power Sanding Belts, Purple http://www.amazon.com/3M-81412-Power-Sanding-Purple/dp/B0000223RX/ref=sr_1_84?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371391749&sr=1-84&keywords=sanding+belts+3x24 Purpose, used to sand cart frame and deck boards after grinding and filling process

3M Pro-Pak Tri-M-ite Fre-Cut Sanding Sheets, 320A-Grit, 9-Inch by 11-Inch http://www.amazon.com/3M-Pro-Pak-Tri-M-ite-Fre-Cut-320A-Grit/dp/B0002YPY0A/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFD04YN59UJ1K Purpose, used to scuff cart frame and deck boards between coats of lacquer

Elmer’s Carpenters Stainable Wood Putty http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E889?filterPath=wood-filler Purpose, used to fill knot holes and cracks after repairing with glue and clamp

http://www.amazon.com/3M-81412-Power-Sanding-Purple/dp/B0000223RX/ref=sr_1_84?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371391749&sr=1-84&keywords=sanding+belts+3x24



http://www.amazon.com/3M-Pro-Pak-Tri-M-ite-Fre-Cut-320A-Grit/dp/B0002YPY0A/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFD04YN59UJ1K


http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E889?filterPath=wood-filler

Page 47



Reassemble Frame Chapter 4

21005 1/4-Inch Black Oxide Pin Punch http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-62020-4105-K-Starter-5-Piece/dp/B000BHJ0VM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1371397172&sr=8-4&keywords=starter+punch Purpose, used to counter sink deck and frame 6 & 8d common nails


Grip-Rite #10-1/2 x 3 in. 10D Steel Bright Finish Smooth Box Nails (1 lb.-Pack) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=boxes+10D%20bright%20common%20nails&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to assemble cart frame members

http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-62020-4105-K-Starter-5-Piece/dp/B000BHJ0VM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1371397172&sr=8-4&keywords=starter+punch



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=boxes+10D%20bright%20common%20nails&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



Page 48

Irwin Steel Framing Square 16 X 24 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-Steel-Framing-Square-16-X-24-1794449/203340909#.Ucg6Y-eMq7w Purpose, used to square check the assembled cart frame before nailing off the deck.

Combination Square, With Zinc Head, 12 Inches, Level Vial and Scriber, Coated Steel Blade http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Combination-Square-6X996?Pid=search Purpose, used to mark sq. cut off lines, notched ends on replacement frame and deck boards

Jorgensen Heavy Duty Steel Bar Clamp 3700 3" 30" http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v448-3906/clamps Purpose, used to clamp the frame together securely before nailing it together


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-Steel-Framing-Square-16-X-24-1794449/203340909#.Ucg6Y-eMq7w

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-Steel-Framing-Square-16-X-24-1794449/203340909#.Ucg6Y-eMq7w

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Combination-Square-6X996?Pid=search

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v448-3906/clamps



Page 49

Countersink #6, 9/64 In Dia Drill bit http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Countersink-6-With-A-964Inch-Diameter-4YK81?Pid=search Purpose, used to pre-drill holes for nails in cart frame and deck replacement boards.

Holder, Hex1/4in http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bit-Holder-4WM47?Pid=search Purpose, used to quick change hex drill bits

Pistol Grip Drill, 6 A, 3/8 in Variable Speed Reversing Trigger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&op=search&Ntt=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used to pre-drill nail holes in cart frame/deck replacement boards, drill castor mount set screw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Countersink-6-With-A-964Inch-Diameter-4YK81?Pid=search


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bit-Holder-4WM47?Pid=search




Page 50



Refinish Frame and Deck Boards Chapter 5

Paint Zoom HVLP Paint Sprayer Kit or any Equal HVLP Type Spray Equipment http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paint-Zoom-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer-Kit-PZ110/203053409#.Ub7xeudZq7w Purpose, used to apply lacquer sealer top coating on cart frame/deck boards with proper ventilation

Alternate Professional Equipment DEVILBISS HVLP Spray Gun, Gravity http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVILBISS-HVLP-Spray-Gun-13E905?Pid=search Purpose, used to apply lacquer sealer top coating on cart frame/deck boards with proper ventilation

3M(TM) 6000 Series Half Mask Respirator http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-6AD97?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect oneself from harmful solvent fumes emitted from paints, stains and lacquers

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paint-Zoom-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer-Kit-PZ110/203053409#.Ub7xeudZq7w

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVILBISS-HVLP-Spray-Gun-13E905?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-6AD97?Pid=search

Page 51

Chemical Cartridge, Green, Bayonet, PK 2 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Chemical-Cartridge-1AZ78?BaseItem=6AD97 Purpose, used with 3M Respirator Mask when Spraying paints, stains and lacquers

Alternate Mask 3M(TM) 5000 Series Half Mask OVP95 Kit Disposable Half Mask Respirator http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Disposable-Half-Mask-Respirator-4MH61?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect oneself from harmful solvent fumes emitted from paints, stains and lacquers

Workforce Tack Cloths http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-Tack-Cloths-3-Pack-88-WFTC3/100295475#.UcFnyOdZq7w Purpose, used for finishing helping pick and hold dust, lint, dirt and sanding residue

Cone Paint Strainers 5-3/4” 110-120 mesh (4-Pack) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+strainers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used for removing dust or other impurities in lacquer easy to use for small amounts of lacquer

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Chemical-Cartridge-1AZ78?BaseItem=6AD97

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Disposable-Half-Mask-Respirator-4MH61?Pid=search

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-Tack-Cloths-3-Pack-88-WFTC3/100295475#.UcFnyOdZq7w

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+strainers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


Page 52


Fil-Stik™ Putty Sticks Statesman Oak http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=106 Purpose, used to fill in nicks scratches or small open splits still showing after finishing

Varathane TOUCH-UP Markers COLOR: 215360 - Color Group 9 http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=62 Purpose, used to stain hardened putty for a natural appearance before staining prepped deck board

Flat Paint Brush Set (5-Piece) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=artist+paint%20brush&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to apply Rustoleum rust colored paint to nail heads after the deck boards are nailed off



http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=106


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=artist+paint%20brush&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All



Page 53

HDX Disposable Nitrile Gloves http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Nitrl+gloves&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used when staining cart frame and deck boards, spraying rust inhibitor, spray paint lettering

LACQUER THINNER – K120 http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/lacquer_thinner_k120/?referringCategory=supplies_and_equipment/solventsreducers/blended_thinner_lacquer_thinner/ Purpose, used to thin dull rubbed effect SW lacquer

Sherwin Williams RETARDER THINNER – K27 005308614 - Gallon http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/retarder-thinner-k27/ Purpose, used to slow evaporation of solvent for use in warm and humid areas. Reduces blushing

SHER-WOOD® LOVOC Lacquer T70F63 Dull Rubbed Effect http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/oem/products/sherwood_lovoc_lacquer/ Purpose, used to seal after stain and top coat for cart frame and deck boards

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Nitrl+gloves&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/lacquer_thinner_k120/?referringCategory=supplies_and_equipment/solventsreducers/blended_thinner_lacquer_thinner/



http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/retarder-thinner-k27/

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/oem/products/sherwood_lovoc_lacquer/

Page 54

Paint Thinner http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/paint_thinner/ Purpose, used to clean up enamel paint and smooth applied filStik

Varathane Wood Stains http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=54 Purpose, used to stain cart frame and deck boards to the desired color

Rustoleum Flat Black Spray Paint http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=183&sid=245197 Purpose, used for lettering cart frame with Lineberry lettering template

SPEEDAIRE Hose, Air, 3/8 in IDx1/4 NPT, 25 Ft, Red http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Heavy-Duty-Multi-Purpose-Rubber-6Z787?Pid=search Purpose, used with compressor to run air tools

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/paint_thinner/


http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=183&sid=245197

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Heavy-Duty-Multi-Purpose-Rubber-6Z787?Pid=search

Page 55

1 lb. T-Shirt Knit Painter's Rags http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=painters+rags&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to wipe stain, clean up tools

Stanley Knife/Other Knife http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Stanley+Knife&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to open supply packages, cutting rags used for finishing and clean up


3M 9182NA 6-Inch 120-Grain Fine Grit Sanding Disc Adhesive-Backed (5-Pack) http://www.amazon.com/3M-9182NA-120-Grain-Sanding-Adhesive-Backed/dp/B00004Z4B9 Purpose, used to sand cart frame and deck boards after belt sanding

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=painters+rags&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Stanley+Knife&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Stanley+Knife&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


http://www.amazon.com/3M-9182NA-120-Grain-Sanding-Adhesive-Backed/dp/B00004Z4B9

Page 56

Air Dual-Action Sander, 6 In., 3/16 In. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&op=search&Ntt=DA+6+in%2C+phenumatic+sander&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used to sand frame and deck boards after belt sanding w/ 120 grit paper

Alternate Electric Sander PORTER CABLE Random Orbit Sander, 3.5 A, 5 in Dia, PSA http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PORTER-CABLE-Random-Orbit-Sander-6FKH1?Pid=search Purpose, used to sand frame and deck boards after belt sanding w/120 grit paper

Two Piece Foldable Saw Horse Set http://www.harborfreight.com/two-piece-foldable-saw-horse-set-41577.html Purpose, used to support factory cart frame, deck boards when finishing and assembling

DAYTON Air Circulator, 20 In, 3700 cfm, 115V http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Air-Circulator-2LY96?Pid=search Purpose, used to circulate air when spraying paint and lacquer




http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PORTER-CABLE-Random-Orbit-Sander-6FKH1?Pid=search

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-piece-foldable-saw-horse-set-41577.html

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Air-Circulator-2LY96?Pid=search

Page 57


Lineberry-N. Wilkesboro. N.C. lettering template http://reduxlineberryfactorycart.com/blog/factory-cart-store/lineberry-lettering-kit/ Purpose, used to re-letter the factory cart using authentic industrial fonts

Project Select Paint Can and Bottle Opener http://www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Select-Paint-Can-and-Bottle-Opener-HD-5421/202061391#.UcdKReeMq7w Purpose, used to open paint and lacquer quart and gallon cans

GenTran 25 ft. 14/1 Yellow Extension Cord with Standard 15 Amp 3-Prongs Male and Female Ends http://www.homedepot.com/p/GenTran-25-ft-14-1-Yellow-Extension-Cord-with-Standard-15-Amp-3-Prongs-Male-and-Female-Ends-RJB14325/203658193#.UcdLbueMq7w Purpose, used to plug in compressor, fan and power tools


http://reduxlineberryfactorycart.com/blog/factory-cart-store/lineberry-lettering-kit/

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Select-Paint-Can-and-Bottle-Opener-HD-5421/202061391#.UcdKReeMq7w


http://www.homedepot.com/p/GenTran-25-ft-14-1-Yellow-Extension-Cord-with-Standard-15-Amp-3-Prongs-Male-and-Female-Ends-RJB14325/203658193#.UcdLbueMq7w


Page 58

GE 3 Grounded Outlet Adapter Heavy Duty – Orange http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=3+way%20plug&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to run multiple power tools and fan of one receptacle one at a time

Paint Mixing Sticks http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/images/KUSMIX12.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/stickshake.aspx&h=300&w=300&sz=37&tbnid=RwstjZDzUn6pCM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=90&zoom=1&usg=__FyR2Obk3FzoMCm7ON_CVPxEIiWE=&docid=NmzoUB_FMA_w9M&sa=X&ei=uFPHUcqIM5Pw8ATStYGYBg&ved=0CF4Q9QEwAw&dur=2818 Purpose, used to stir paints and lacquers

Leaktite Multi-Mix 2.5 qt. Plastic Bucket http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+mixing%20container&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose for mixing stain and lacquer always in separate containers


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=3+way%20plug&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/images/KUSMIX12.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/stickshake.aspx&h=300&w=300&sz=37&tbnid=RwstjZDzUn6pCM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=90&zoom=1&usg=__FyR2Obk3FzoMCm7ON_CVPxEIiWE=&docid=NmzoUB_FMA_w9M&sa=X&ei=uFPHUcqIM5Pw8ATStYGYBg&ved=0CF4Q9QEwAw&dur=2818




http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+mixing%20container&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All





Page 59



Install Wheels Hardware & Deck Boards Chapter 6

21005 1/4-Inch Black Oxide Pin Punch http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-62020-4105-K-Starter-5-Piece/dp/B000BHJ0VM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1371397172&sr=8-4&keywords=starter+punch Purpose, used to counter sink deck and frame 6 & 8d common nails

Senco FinishPro 10 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Micro Pinner http://www.amazon.com/Senco-FinishPro-2-Inch-1-Inch-23-Gauge/dp/B00006F708/ref=pd_sim_hi_4 Purpose, used to fasten re-finished cart deck boards to cart frame before nailing in place




http://www.amazon.com/Senco-FinishPro-2-Inch-1-Inch-23-Gauge/dp/B00006F708/ref=pd_sim_hi_4


Page 60

JOHNSON Straight Edge, Alum, 1/8, 1/16 Grad, 48 in L http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Straight-Edge-21XK09?Pid=search Purpose, used to aligning cart deck boards on the frame prior to nailing in place w/ Senco micro pin gun

Grip-Rite #10-1/4 x 2 in. 6 D Bright Steel Smooth Box Nails (5 lb.-Pack) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=boxes+6D%20bright%20common%20nails&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to nail deck boards to cart frame


Countersink #6, 9/64 In Dia Drill bit http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Countersink-6-With-A-964Inch-Diameter-4YK81?Pid=search Purpose, used to pre-drill holes for nails in cart frame and deck replacement boards

Holder, Hex1/4in http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bit-Holder-4WM47?Pid=search Purpose, used to quick change hex drill bits.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/JOHNSON-Straight-Edge-21XK09?Pid=search








http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEWALT-Bit-Holder-4WM47?Pid=search

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Pistol Grip Drill, 6 A, 3/8 in Variable Speed Reversing Trigger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&op=search&Ntt=3%2F8+porta+cable+variable+speed+drill&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch= Purpose, used to pre-drill nail holes in cart frame/deck replacement boards, drill castor mount set screw

DEWALT 1/8 in. Titanium Split Point Drill Bits 2 Pack http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=1%2F8+drill%20bit&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to re-drill nail holes through the deck board in the cart frame before nailing the deck off


Channellock 6 in. Tongue and Groove Pliers http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=channel+locks&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove cotter pins from castor housing




http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=1%2F8+drill%20bit&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All







Page 62

Combination Wrench, 9/16In., 8-7/8In. OAL http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Combination-Wrench-Item-5HL81?Pid=search Purpose, used to break and remove nuts from threaded rods loosening the other side with air ratchet

Combo Wrench, 12 Pt., Full Polish, 9/16 in http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Combination-Wrench-22DL09?Pid=search Purpose, used together with 9/16 combination wrench to remove nuts from the through bolt rods

3/8” drive Ratchet w/9/16 socket http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=3%2F8%E2%80%9D+drive%20Ratchet%20w%2F9%2F16%20socket&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to remove nuts and tighten nuts if a pneumatic air ratchet is not available

Air Wrench, Ratchet, 3/8 In. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Air-Ratchet-Wrench-5ZL11?Pid=search Purpose, used for removing and tightening nuts on cast iron cart parts used with 9/16 socket 3/8” drive

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Combination-Wrench-Item-5HL81?Pid=search






http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Air-Ratchet-Wrench-5ZL11?Pid=search

Page 63


Leather Gloves, Leather Palm Type Split Striped Cotton Back Material, Safety Cuff http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Leather-Palm-Gloves-3ZL53?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect hands removing bolts/castings, grinding deck boards wire brushing castings


GenTran 25 ft. 14/1 Yellow Extension Cord with Standard 15 Amp 3-Prongs Male and Female Ends http://www.homedepot.com/p/GenTran-25-ft-14-1-Yellow-Extension-Cord-with-Standard-15-Amp-3-Prongs-Male-and-Female-Ends-RJB14325/203658193#.UcdLbueMq7w Purpose, used to plug in compressor, fan and power tools


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Leather-Palm-Gloves-3ZL53?Pid=search




Page 64



White Lithium Grease with Cerflon http://www.lowes.com/pd_235861-1409-L616_ Purpose, used on axel ends before assembling axel mount to quiet wheels





http://www.lowes.com/pd_235861-1409-L616_


Page 65


Recommended tools and supplies used in Factory Cart Restoration, including description, manufacturer, product number, purpose of use, and a website link to a reputable supplier Final Finish Chapter 7 Safety Glasses, Clear, Scratch-Resistant http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Safety-Glasses-5JE26?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 Purpose, used to protect one’s eyes when sawing grinding and sanding


Paint Zoom HVLP Paint Sprayer Kit or any Equal HVLP Type Spray Equipment




Page 66

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paint-Zoom-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer-Kit-PZ110/203053409#.Ub7xeudZq7w Purpose, used to apply lacquer sealer top coating on cart frame/deck boards with proper ventilation

Alternate Professional Equipment DEVILBISS HVLP Spray Gun, Gravity http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVILBISS-HVLP-Spray-Gun-13E905?Pid=search Purpose, used to apply lacquer sealer top coating on cart frame/deck boards with proper ventilation

3M(TM) 6000 Series Half Mask Respirator http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-6AD97?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect oneself from harmful solvent fumes emitted from paints, stains and lacquers

Chemical Cartridge, Green, Bayonet, PK 2 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Chemical-Cartridge-1AZ78?BaseItem=6AD97 Purpose, used with 3M Respirator Mask when Spraying paints, stains and lacquers

Alternate Mask 3M(TM) 5000 Series Half Mask OVP95 Kit Disposable Half Mask Respirator http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Disposable-Half-Mask-Respirator-4MH61?Pid=search Purpose, used to protect oneself from harmful solvent fumes emitted from paints, stains and lacquers

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paint-Zoom-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer-Kit-PZ110/203053409#.Ub7xeudZq7w

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVILBISS-HVLP-Spray-Gun-13E905?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-6AD97?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Chemical-Cartridge-1AZ78?BaseItem=6AD97

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Disposable-Half-Mask-Respirator-4MH61?Pid=search

Page 67


GenTran 25 ft. 14/1 Yellow Extension Cord with Standard 15 Amp 3-Prongs Male and Female Ends

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GenTran-25-ft-14-1-Yellow-Extension-Cord-with-Standard-15-Amp-3-Prongs-Male-and-Female-Ends-RJB14325/203658193#.UcdLbueMq7w Purpose, used to plug in compressor, fan and power tools



Workforce Tack Cloths http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-Tack-Cloths-3-Pack-88-WFTC3/100295475#.UcFnyOdZq7w







http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-Tack-Cloths-3-Pack-88-WFTC3/100295475#.UcFnyOdZq7w

Page 68

Purpose, used for finishing helping pick and hold dust, lint, dirt and sanding residue

Cone Paint Strainers 5-3/4” 110-120 mesh (4-Pack) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+strainers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used for removing dust or other impurities in lacquer easy to use for small amounts of lacquer

Fil-Stik™ Putty Sticks Statesman Oak http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=106 Purpose, used to fill in nicks scratches or small open splits still showing after finishing

Flat Paint Brush Set (5-Piece) http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=artist+paint%20brush&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to apply Rustoleum rust colored paint to nail heads after the deck boards are nailed off



http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=106




Page 69

HDX Disposable Nitrile Gloves http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=Nitrl+gloves&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used when staining cart frame and deck boards, spraying rust inhibitor, spray paint lettering


Sherwin Williams RETARDER THINNER – K27 005308614 - Gallon http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/retarder-thinner-k27/ Purpose, used to slow evaporation solvent for use in warm and humid areas and reduces blushing

SHER-WOOD® LOVOC Lacquer T70F63 Dull Rubbed Effect http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/oem/products/sherwood_lovoc_lacquer/ Purpose, used to seal after stain and top coat for cart frame and deck boards

LACQUER THINNER – K120





http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/retarder-thinner-k27/

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/oem/products/sherwood_lovoc_lacquer/

Page 70

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/lacquer_thinner_k120/?referringCategory=supplies_and_equipment/solventsreducers/blended_thinner_lacquer_thinner/ Purpose, used to thin dull rubbed effect SW lacquer

Paint Thinner http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/paint_thinner/ Purpose, used to clean up enamel paint and smooth applied filStik

Rustoleum Flat Enamel COLOR: 239084 - Flat Brown http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=150&sid=239084 Purpose, used to paint bright common nail heads with pony tail artist brush after the nails are installed

Project Select Paint Can and Bottle Opener


Purpose, used to open paint and lacquer quart and gallon cans




http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/mx/eng/oem/products/paint_thinner/

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=150&sid=239084



Page 71

Dupli-Color Rust Fix http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustFix/ Purpose, used to coat cast iron castings/wheels after cleaning removes rust and restores black iron

1 lb. T-Shirt Knit Painter's Rags http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=painters+rags&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose, used to wipe stain, clean up tools

Paint Mixing Sticks http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/images/KUSMIX12.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/stickshake.aspx&h=300&w=300&sz=37&tbnid=RwstjZDzUn6pCM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=90&zoom=1&usg=__FyR2Obk3FzoMCm7ON_CVPxEIiWE=&docid=NmzoUB_FMA_w9M&sa=X&ei=uFPHUcqIM5Pw8ATStYGYBg&ved=0CF4Q9QEwAw&dur=2818 Purpose, used to stir paints and lacquers

Leaktite Multi-Mix 2.5 qt. Plastic Bucket http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=paint+mixing%20container&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All Purpose for mixing stain and lacquer always in separate containers

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustFix/










Page 72



Page 73

LINEBERRY RESTORATION KITS

In order to provide the very best in supplies for your Factory Cart Restoration, www.reduxlineberryfactorycart.com has a nice offering of some of the most needed parts and supplies for your project. The inventory continues to expand so please check back to see what else is available. Hardware Kit This convenient set of hardware provides all the basic bolts, nuts, nails and other original type of hardware that matches the original. It can save hours of tedious work in restoring the old, rusty, and in some cases worn out parts. Because the parts are all matched to the original they do not distract from the authentic appearance.

Included in the Hardware kit: • 8 ea. Round Head Square Neck Carriage Bolt 3/8"-16, 2" Steel Coarse Thread • 12 ea. Round Head Square Neck Carriage Bolt 3/8"-16, 2-1/2" Steel Coarse Thread • 28 ea. Plain Steel Split Lock Washer 3/8" Screw Size, .68 OD, .09" Min Thickness • 28 ea. Plain Gauge Steel Hex Nut 3/8"-16 Thread Size 9/16" Width, 21/64" • 2 ea. Steel Cotter Pins 3/16"Diameter x 1-1/2" Length • 2 ea. Black Alloy Steel Extended Point Set Screw 1/4"- 20 Thread, 1" long • 18 ea. 8-D 2-1/2" Bright Common Frame Nails • 57 ea. 6-D 2" Bright Common Deck Nails

Lineberry Lettering Template

The Mylar laser cut template is designed to replicate the original factory cart lettering. It is sized to cover the entire side of the original factory cart frame for a clean application of the black spray paint used for lettering.

http://www.reduxlineberryfactorycart.com/

Page 1

RESTORATION CHECKLIST PREPARATION Done Acquire Factory Cart ____ Prepare work area ____ Safety (Inspect area) ____ Photos (for before and after) ____ Journal (for recording progress and working notes) ____ TOOLS & SUPPLIES Acquire Tools ____ Acquire Supplies ____ CHAPTER 1 DISASSEMBLY Step 1 Remove Deck Boards ____ Step 2 Remove Wheels ____ Step 3 Remove Corner Brackets ____ CHAPTER 2 CLEAN REPAIR & REFINISH HARDWARE Step 1 Inspect ____ Step 2 Chip Repair ____ Step 3 Crack Repair ____ Step 4 Stripping Paint ____ Step 5 Cleaning the Castings ____ Step 6 Wire Brushing ____ Step 7 Metal Treatment ____ Step 8 Caster Set Screws ____ Step 9 Restoring Hardware ____

Page 2

CHAPTER 3 REPAIR the FRAME and DECK BOARDS Step 1 Repair Cracks and Knot Holes ____ Step 2 Grinding and Surfacing ____ Step 3 Sanding ____ CHAPTER 4 REASSEMBLE FRAME Step 1 Position End Beams ____ Step 2 Position Side Beams ____ Step 3 Predrill Side Beams ____ Step 4 Nail Side Beams ____ Step 5 Position Center Beam ____ Step 6 Predrill Center Beam ____ Step 7 Nail Center Beam ____ CHAPTER 5 REFINISH FRAME & DECK BOARDS Step 1 Preparation ____ Step 2 Clean the Surface ____ Step 3 Touch up the Knots and Repairs ____ Step 4 Stain the Cart Wood Surfaces ____ Step 5 Stain the Deck Boards ____ Step 6 Paint the Lettering ____ Step 7 Mix the Finish Lacquer ____ Step 8 Apply the Finish Lacquer ____ Step 9 Recoat the Frame and Deck Boards ____ Step 10 Sanding the Cart Frame and Deck Boards ____

Page 3

CHAPTER 6 INSTALL WHEELS HARDWARE & DECK Step 1 Installing the Large Wheels ____ Step 2 Installing the Caster Wheels ____ Step 3 Installing the Corner Brackets ____ Step 4 Installing the Deck Boards ____ CHAPTER 7 FINAL FINISH Step 1 Clean the Surface ____ Step 2 Touch up the Hardware ____ Step 3 Paint the Nail Heads ____ Step 4 Fill Cracks and Defects ____ Step 5 Final Cleaning ____ Step 6 Apply the Finish Lacquer ____ Final Journal entries ____ Final photos ____ Celebrate! ____ You have much to be proud of in the completion of your Factory Cart Restoration and we salute you! It is with many years of experience that we know the travails as well as the great pleasure in restoring a fine old object. We love to hear from others who have been on this journey. Please share your thoughts, accomplishments and suggestions. You'll find we have a willing ear for those who share our passion. When you recover from the project and get your cart placed, send us a photo and/or just a simple note to the website. Best regards

Date post:	06-Feb-2018
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