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    How to Weld - TIG Weldingby stasterisk on July 3, 2007

    Table of Contents

    License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) .............................................................................

    Intro: How to Weld - TIG Welding .................................................................................................

    step 1: Choose the Electrode ....................................................................................................

    step 2: Grind the Electrode ......................................................................................................

    step 3: Insert the Electrode Into Its Collet ...........................................................................................

    step 4: Choose the Settings .....................................................................................................

    step 5: Turn on the Gas ........................................................................................................

    step 6: Prepare Metal and Welding Table ...........................................................................................

    step 7: Get Dressed Up! ........................................................................................................

    step 8: One Last Check ........................................................................................................

    step 9: Weld! ................................................................................................................

    step 10: Draw a Bead .........................................................................................................

    step 11: Types of Welds ........................................................................................................

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................... 1

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    Comments ................................................................................................................... 1

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    License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)

    Intro: How to Weld - TIG WeldingTIG Welding is one type of welding amongst a few choices you have - MIG, Stick, Oxyacetylene, etc.

    TIG can be used to weld copper, t itanium, even two dissimilar metals, and is handy for making tricky welds (e.g. s-curves, or welds on round things)..

    TIG generates heat via an arc of electricity jumping from a ( tungsten metal) electrode to the metal surfaces you intend to weld - usually aluminum or steel.

    TIG stands for Tungsten Inert Gas, after the tungsten electrode, and the sheath of inert gas (argon or an argon mixture) surrounding it.

    Big thanks to Mose O'Griffin, who narrated, taught, and demonstrated.

    Also, If you're interested in MIG welding, see this instructable :

    step 1:Choose the ElectrodeYour TIG is likely to have the right electrode in it already.

    For aluminum, the best choice is a pure tungsten rod.

    You can alternately choose from any number of tungsten alloys (including thoriated tungsten - which is radioactive!) which are uniquely suited to welding particular alloof metal.

    For reference, this example uses the specific alloy 6061 Aluminum (the "steak and potatoes" or "normal" type of aluminum)

    http://www.instructables.com/id/EWAD8Q7F2L4FTZS/http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/
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    step 2:Grind the ElectrodeGrind the tungsten rod to a point.

    Do this, especially if the rod is a brand-new cylinder and doesn't have a pointed or rounded tip yet.

    The tip will become rounded due to heat as you weld.

    Lincoln recommends a balled tip for AC welding, and a pointed tip for DC welding.

    The pointed tip will give a smaller, more directed arc. The arc will tend to dance around, when from a rounded tip.

    step 3:Insert the Electrode Into Its ColletUnscrew the back of the electrode holder, insert the rod, replace back.

    The tip of the electrode should be about 1/4" away from the protective sheath, but not much more.

    Skip this if you already have your electrode ready.

    Shown below are two different types of electrode holders.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step2/Grind-the-Electrode/
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    Image Notes1. "Gas Lens" electrode gun - purportedly creates nicer gas flow over your work2. standard electrode gun

    step 4:Choose the SettingsThe typical TIG rig will have three main electricity options - AC, DCEP, and DCEN.

    AC is for aluminum - choose "AC".

    Set the "Cleaning/Penetrating" setting to the more "Penetrating" side - around 7 on a scale from 1 to 10.

    Set the "Air on" to about 5 seconds, if you have the option to do so.This is the amount of time the gas stays on after the arc stops, to keep your weld from oxidizing/rusting.

    Set the "Max Amps" pretty high - perhaps around 250.

    For specific settings, check out Miller's settings calculator.

    For the curious:

    Cleaning/Penetrating is a modification to the positive/negative rat io of the AC that changes the depth of your weld (cleaning is more shallow).

    DCEP means "DC, Electrode Postive". This setting is used for balling the tungsten tip, or stick welding.

    DCEN means "DC, Electrode Negative", and is for welding steel.

    The difference between the two DC settings is the direction the electricity flows - to the metal from the electrode, or to the electrode from the metal. This makes a bigdifference in the amount of heat the metal absorbs, and the width and depth of the weld.

    Image Notes1. High quality welder settings - sets the pulse to high frequency for welding aluminum.2. High quality welder settings - sends an initial high frequency pulse to start the weld pool, when welding steel.3. AC - Aluminum4. DCEN - Steel setting5. DC, Electrode Positive6. Air post-flow time

    http://www.millerwelds.com/education/calculators/tig_amperage_calculator.php
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    7. Amperage - the current setting8. Cleaning/Penetrating

    step 5:Turn on the GasFor aluminum, use pure argon.

    For steel, you would use an argon/carbon dioxide mixture.

    The gas is important to keep the weld from becoming corroded, as metal will rust (or in the case of aluminum, oxidize) ridiculously quickly at the high temperatures themetal reaches.

    step 6:Prepare Metal and Welding TableSome kind of large metallic area is necessary to let electricity flow through your metal. We're using a welding table, purchased for the purpose. Otherwise, a large piecof sheet metal will do perfectly well (just make sure it's flat).

    Beauty Tip: Use a wire brush to scrub the surfaces of the metal. It's good practice to keep a dedicated aluminum brush (separate from what you use to clean steel). If want really nice-looking welds, you can also wipe down the welding rods with acetone.

    If you don't care about the way the welds look when finished, don't bother and you'll be fine. However, your welds will be a little weaker and not as pretty.

    Clamp your metals so they'll stay where you want them when you weld.

    And, if you have the stuff, spray down your welding table with anti-spatter (so if any metal leaks off, it doesn't stick where it lands, which is important if you're trying tokeep your surface flat).

    Image Notes1. Make a good ground clamp contact on the metal weld table

    Image Notes1. Anti-spatter spray2. pieces of aluminum to weld3. welding rod4. welding helmets5. welding table

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    Image Notes1. Tip: Use dedicated aluminum brush to prevent specks of other metals fromcontaminating the final product.

    Image Notes1. notice the difference between brushed and oxidized aluminum.

    step 7:Get Dressed Up!TIG will give you sunburns. TIG wil l make you see stars (or go blind). TIG will burn your hands.

    Use thick leather welding gloves, and a welding helmet, and closed-toe shoes.

    To avoid sunburn, wear a long-sleeved shirt or jacket, or a welding coat.

    Clean your helmet - the better you can see what you're doing, the better you can weld.

    Some people like auto-darkening welding helmets. Others don't like relying on the device's reaction time - you have to invest a lot, to get a good-quality, fast one.

    We're using always-dark helmets.

    You might use a bright flashlight, if you want to see what you are doing without lifting your helmet.

    Image Notes1. leather welding jacket

    Image Notes1. jacket, gloves2. welding mask

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    Image Notes1. disclaimer!

    step 8:One Last CheckHold the electrode in your dominant hand. Make sure it can move freely (untangled, unhampered cord).

    Image Notes1. Plenty of freedom to move with extra cable

    step 9:Weld!Hold the electrode about an inch away from the metal. Never touch the metal with the electrode. If you do, molten aluminum will leap onto the electrode. If this happenstop, turn off the welder, remove the tungsten rod, and grind it down.

    Jam down on the foot-pedal to quickly dump a bunch of current and heat into the metal.

    The idea is to very quickly heat the metal and start the weld pool. You'll know it when you see it - the metal becomes fluid.

    Start on an edge.

    When the pool has formed, touch the rod in.

    If you heat the metal for too long, it will warp. The longer the metal is heated, the more it will warp.

    This is a "tack" weld, to hold the metal piece in place, so you can take off the clamps and do big long bead welds.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/step9/Weld/
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    Once you have a weld pool started, you can ease of f the pedal a little, to control the amount of heat and current being applied to the metal.

    Welds shrink as they cool, so you can alternate sides to keep the welds even, and to keep one side of metal from gett ing too hot and warping. Hot metal can warp a gdeal, and if you don't change sides, you might find yourself even 1/4" off of where the metal ought to be.

    Image Notes1. foot pedal

    Image Notes1. hand pedal - alternative arc regulation to the foot pedal.

    Image Notes1. This means you've used too much current, or have a lead foot.

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    Image Notes1. Cosmetic weld2. Strength weld

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    Comments

    50 comments Add Comment view all 122 commen

    Mig Welder says: Jul 27, 2010. 6:52 AM REPYou don't necessarily have to invest a lot for a good fast AD helmet. I got mine for around $45 and it's great. It has infinite shade adjustment (9-14(or 13?))You can also change the sensitivity so it doesn't turn on when you look at lights. Finally, you can also change the reaction time (in milliseconds I think) whicis nice. . .

    Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 6:02 PM REPgood auto dark tig helmets cost more than mig/mag/mma ones, most cheap helmets won't go to below 20amps many tigs do 5amps a lot of older onesdo 10amps mine goes to 3 amps, not many if any cheap masks are suitable for the whole range of a tig welders amps, even a lot of more expensiveones will only go down to 5amp.

    Mig Welder says: Sep 17, 2010. 8:23 PM REPIs the arc really that incredibly bright at such low amperage?

    Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 18, 2010. 12:59 PM REPno the oposite, it's that it's not very bright compared to higher amps the mask doesn't detect the arc and so the mask stays in the light mode doenot darken to the proper welding shade, you wil l see a spec called "minimum tig detection" on some helmets, so for low amps you need one thadetects low amps, and they cost a lot more than masks with a higher minimum amp detection that work fine with mig and arc but not the bottomof tig.

    Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 6:11 PM REPthose gloves must be imposable to feed the filler accurately in, get some proper thin tig gloves you don't need those huge things for tig.

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    iMakeItHappen says: Jun 19, 2010. 1:04 PM REPis it possible to TIG weld w/o the gas? because i know in MIG welding you can use a flux core, and i wanted to know if the same applied here....

    Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 5:53 PM REPyou need pure argon or argon helium mix to tig weld the tungsten needs shielding as well as the weld pool.

    snowluck2345 says: Jul 15, 2010. 6:01 PM REPI've been wondering this too, but I dont think you can because the tungsten electrode needs a shielding gas to prevent it from being contaminated, andthre wouldn't be enogh shielding without gas.

    M4industries says: Jun 24, 2010. 7:17 PM REPIs that Tim? Or someone else at Instructables.

    paranoid56 says: Jul 30, 2007. 5:06 PM REPThis is wrong, you should never grind the tip that way. you should always grind with the tip up so you dont contaminate the tip. (just flip it from what hesdoing) just thought you should know :D

    memainman4 says: Jun 21, 2010. 6:58 PM REPNot with tungsten. the sparks actually f ly onto your hand and are 'abosorbed' i guess by the skin. poisoning you. you could wear a glove but as im sureeverybody knows, wearing a glove while using a bench grinder isnt the smartest thing to do.

    woodpecker says: Sep 21, 2007. 4:16 PM REPgrinding on the top of the wheel is riskier. sparks fly into your face, and if the material catches - it flies into your face.

    pfred2 says: Jun 29, 2009. 9:00 PM REPTurn the grinder around so the sparks fly away. I have a dedicated grinder for sharpening my tungstens so they don't get contaminated.

    skaar says: Jun 13, 2009. 7:50 AM REPwhen i'd do points on things, i'd swap out the rest for something slimmer, and the rods would point almost vertical, solves the problems you addressthink.

    TBC06 says: Jan 20, 2010. 3:11 PM REPagreed as well, use the top of the wheel and have your 1-3 slope for the tip (about 20 degrees on a 1/8 electrode) and only use the stone fortungsten only so it does not pick up contaminants, or better yet use a diamond stone on a tungsten sharpener :)

    piniongear says: Aug 6, 2009. 5:18 PM REPGoing back to the beginning of this......... Huh? I did not think you could Tig weld with a mixed gas, i.e., CO2 and argon, as you would use for Mig? Heliumand argon yeah, or straight argon, but not with CO2 in there? pg

    LetsExplodeSomething says: May 1, 2010. 6:58 PM REPno straight argon is the choice of nearly every tig welder i know

    w0ot! says: Feb 8, 2010. 8:38 PM REPCouldn't one turn the rod horizontally (perpendicular to the wheel) and spin it against the stone?

    LetsExplodeSomething says: May 1, 2010. 6:52 PM REPno then you create a grain in the rod going against the flow of the arc

    windhook says: Mar 12, 2009. 4:40 PM REPMaybe the best advice to ANYONE would be to take a class, learn from a professional welding instructor. There is some good, correct information in thisforum and unfortunately a lot of incorrect misinformation. If Welding was so simple, so easy to learn, your Mother would be a professional welder, as well aeveryone else on your street. There are some skills that are easy to master, but many trade procedures take time,training and practice to become proficienat. I'm a Journeyman Weldor and a Welding Instructor, with just under 40 years experience. Today, at a trade show, it was a blast to learn some new tricksand to learn from technicians that really know their equipment inside out. Start with your local Community College, you'll learn more and faster too.

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    jonwwelding says: Apr 6, 2010. 1:48 PM REPI completely agree with windhook. Welding is not only complicated, but it can also be dangerous. It is best to learn the proper techniques before enterithis industry. I went to Tulsa Welding School in Jacksonville and have had a successful career so far. Here's more info: www.weldingschool.com. Goodluck!

    w0ot! says: Feb 8, 2010. 8:40 PM REPAre there any smaller holders available?

    jack8559 says: Feb 7, 2010. 7:43 PM REPI was taught to "push the puddle" towards the rod when welding steel OR aluminum. I'm not saying your way is wrong, it's just how I was taught.

    holland67 says: Dec 11, 2009. 6:23 PM REPsome one tell me what is2.3.4g welding positins are

    mstar says: Feb 7, 2010. 3:28 PM REPA 2g welding position is one where the groove of the weld joint is horizontal in relation to the welder; 3g would be vertical and 4g would be overhead anis the exact opposite of 1g which is flat. 5g is the normal testing angle for high pressure pipe. A 5g position is where the groove of the weld ismaintained at a 45 degree angle. NAVSHIPS structural certification tests are normally given in 2g, 3g, and 4g positions whereas AWS structuralcertification tests are usually given in in 3g and 4g positions. The "g" signifies "groove" and an "f" would be for a fillet weld.

    CHEVY6998 says: Jan 2, 2008. 10:01 AM REPWhile pure Tungsten is a good choice and has been for many years, 2% ceriated is a better choice. 2% Thoriated Tungsten is the prime choice for steelalloys, and yes while Thorium is considered "radioactive" and does have a relatively long half life you exposure through weld use is negligible. A most rece

    study tested over 1200 career welders, all of which used EWTH-2 tungsten primarily and only one person had a carcinegenic illness, which was found to bhereditary.

    mstar says: Nov 17, 2009. 10:46 AM REPI'm surprised this thread is still going but since it is I should add that what I originally wrote was not merely based on my own experience. Studies doneby the American Welding Society have established that 2% thoriated tungsten is the prefered choice for all welds where quality is the primary concern.Furthermore, I remember reading somewhere that pure tungsten should only be used when quality is not an issue. My personal preference is to do thjob in the best possible manner which is why I have always stuck with 2%. If you have the time and the inclination to explore the difference between tball end and the blunt end you can easily see for yourself with a 1/16" section of each type tungsten. Estabish an arc on a scrap of aluminum at eyelevel so you can see what happens clearly. With the machine on AC the ball eventually begins to grow larger, it starts to wobble and gyrate around theend of the tungsten and eventually it will detach itself and fly across the arc into the weld puddle. The resistence to the flow of electricity is greater at thtop of the ball than it is in the tungten rod above it. That resistance erodes the tungsten above the ball (which is why it grows larger) and when it gets tthe point that it is too thin to support the ball the end flys off and your weld is contaminated. A blunted point will eventually turn into a balled point anddo the same thing when you are running AC, but with 2% i t takes longer for the end to go bad so you can get more good quality welding done before yohave to stop and change electrodes or head back to the grinder so you can re-shape the thing.Producing good quality welds is not that difficult but you have to know what you are looking at while you are welding. Playing around with scrap pieces

    eye level allows you to see what is going on with the electrode and the weld puddle and it is something that I would encourage anyone to do if they arejust starting out. The books cover the basics but the knowledge necessary to perform at a higher level can't be found in a book. Vitually anyone canstick two pieces of metal together with a welding machine but to do it right is an art and that requires practice and talent.

    sephirothx666 says: Feb 7, 2010. 9:45 AM REPIt's always nice to read these kinds of things once in a while to gain so knowledge. I agree with the very last section 100%. I was in a welding classlast year and everyone could finish the projects but very few could finish without holes or impurities. Even if i don't go into welding as a career i woustill weld.

    mstar says: Feb 7, 2010. 3:16 PM REPOnce you acquire the basic knowledge regarding how to operate the equipment safely and the procedure for making an effective weld, the rest merely a matter of practice, the proper attitude and talent. Welding is a skill of artistic expression and it is very similar to learning to play a guitaor learning how to draw. Not everyone who plays a guitar can play well, and few can play good enough to make a living at it, but everyone canlearn a chord or two and make noise.

    BreeBait says: Nov 16, 2009. 11:24 PM REPthey still stick you with the hazardous material fee, at least in California. I noticed that on my reciept the other day.

    mstar says: Dec 31, 2008. 1:58 PM REPGot to agree with CHEVY6998 on using 2% thoriated tungsten for everything including aluminum. With more than 30 years experience in all phases ofwelding I have found that the only good thing that pure tungsten electrodes are good for is making scribers. For aluminum I don't point the electrode sharplbut leave a flat on the end and lightly pre-heat the work so you can keep the amperage down and still puddle quickly.

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    BreeBait says: Nov 16, 2009. 11:25 PM REPI do a slight ball at my end, but I want to try what you wrote.

    Jon Wilks says: Sep 1, 2009. 8:33 AM REPmstar is very correct

    mstar says: Aug 13, 2010. 8:52 AM REPIts one thing if you are just sticking stuff together in your garage and spent your money on pure tungsten electrodes because that is what you readin some book, but if you are a journeyman, and you are welding aluminum as part of your job, it is expected that everything you turn out be the

    epitome of perfection. The cost of time, electrodes, scrap aluminum, gas, and electricity if far less than the cost of turning out an inferior piece of wothat looks bad and will probably be fi lled with the thin slivers of tungsten cast off by the disintegrating electrode you used to do the work. If you wanto perform excellent work every time then I suggest you take the time to perform the brief experiment I suggested in my initial posting. On one pieceof scrap use the balled end of a pure tungsten electrode and put your face right down in front of the weld so you can see what happens. It wont takmore than a few seconds before the ball becomes a lump. That lump is formed by the addition of tungsten as the current melts off the thinner sectioabove it, the alternation of the AC fluctuation will become evident in the gyrating lump. The popping noise you will hear is the result of that gyratinglump blowing off the end of the electrode as it travels the line of the current straight into the weld puddle beneath it. If you note the end of theelectrode right after that pop you will see that your ball is gone and as you continue, another ball quickly begins to form and the entire processrepeats itself. The higher the amperage the faster this happens. Each pop represents a miniature shotgun blast of tungsten particles into your weldyou x-rayed the piece, the multitude of small inclusions would appear like a star f ield through a telescope. Every inclusion is a weak spot in yourwork. If the piece is subject to internal pressure or mechanical stress from constant movement small hairline cracks will begin to grow from eachinclusion; eventually these small crack connect from one inclusion to the next and the thing breaks off right through the weld. From the standpoint oa journeyman, this is unacceptable. The higher amperage that is recommended when welding aluminum is to overcome the added resistance of theball. If youre electrode is 3/32 in diameter and the diameter of the ball is 1/8 you must increase the amperage to what you would normally use fora 1/8 electrode. Since aluminum melts at a lower temperature than steel the amperage necessary should be lower not higher. Consider it logicallyyou are compensating for the size of the ball by increasing the amperage. If you preheat the work and use the blunted point on a 2% electrode, thepuddle forms quicker and at lower amperage setting. Because you are running AC the blunted point will still begin to erode and you will have to stoto reshape your electrode more often. To save t ime it is better to have a number of electrodes prepared and nearby. Brush the oxide layer off with astainless steel brush and continue from where you left off. The difference between a journeyman and a dabbler is attitude and experience. Excellenwork demands patience, self-discipline and knowledge gained by experience. Pure tungsten electrodes make great scribers if placed in a spare pinvise; they also make good darts for blow guns when pushed through a foam rubber earplug, but they are not made for high quality welding.

    themotorman says: Feb 22, 2009. 1:51 PM REPI weld have a pacemaker and also am an EE. Sure, if you have a defibrillator in your body NO WELDING!! But if you have a pacemaker then, and dependiyour reason for a pacemaker, you should be OK. The reason for concern is that if you have to have a functioning pacemaker to stay alive minute to minutethen a failure of the pacemaker will mean you die! Most pacemaker users rely on the pacemaker only occasionally and if it failed their own heart would beOK for most of the time.. It is a risk but reasonable.. the number of deaths or injuries due to using a welding system must be very very small as I cannot finany reported. If you are going to weld.. keep the wires away from the pacemaker and do not wrap i t around your body...this sounds a bit stupid even if youdon't have a pacemaker to me. If you are worried get a pacer monitor and see how your heart functions while you're welding.

    Judy L Durrant says: Sep 8, 2009. 12:16 PM REPMy dad has welded his whole life, he does it as his business. He just had to have a pacemaker and defibulator put in. He was told that he couldn't weldany more, I need to know if there is a way that he can still weld. It's his love, and I worry about him if he can't get back to normal. Please help if you kno

    of any way that he can weld. thanks, Judy

    themotorman says: Sep 8, 2009. 1:26 PM REPI am so sorry about your dad . If he has a pacemaker AND a defib then there is a small risk that the defib will be initiated by the electrical energy frothe welder. As the risk is not known both as to whether the welding will affect his defib or not and also even if it did affect the defib if the defib goingoff would be really bad for your dad. It is not a pleasant experience. It would be perfectly safe to use a torch, oxy/acetylene, for welding. There iseven some risk with this as if he became unconscious when welding he could burn something down. Again unknown risks. The bottom line is thatyour dad should decide himself what he wants to do with the rest of his life, without my pacemaker I would have died , probably in a car accidentmaybe killing others too. You will find that the doctors opinion is too not do anything but then life without risks isn't worth the living. Only your Dadknows what is best for him I have said this already but it is so, so true. Best wishes. ron themotorman.

    rayfalcon says: Feb 22, 2009. 8:00 PM REPok what if the user(s) are pacing at 62% then what also with my mom she tried mowing last year using a 22 hp wide body murray lt and she claimes thathe pacer was lighting her up.... .is this possible themotorman says: I weld have a pacemaker and also am an EE. Sure, if you have a defibrillator in youbody NO WELDING!! But if you have a pacemaker then, and depending your reason for a pacemaker, you should be OK. The reason for concern is thif you have to have a functioning pacemaker to stay alive minute to minute then a failure of the pacemaker will mean you die! Most pacemaker users re

    on the pacemaker only occasionally and if it failed their own heart would be OK for most of the time.. It is a risk but reasonable.. the number of deaths oinjuries due to using a welding system must be very very small as I cannot find any reported. If you are going to weld.. keep the wires away from thepacemaker and do not wrap it around your body...this sounds a bit stupid even if you don't have a pacemaker to me. If you are worried get a pacermonitor and see how your heart functions while you're welding.

    themotorman says: Feb 22, 2009. 9:35 PM REPIt is possible but most unlikely. The only way that a pacemaker would malfunction, apart form normal electronic part failures, is for the lead wires topick up a signal and it gets interpreted as coming from the heart. The pacemaker has a built in computer that looks at the input and can sort out"noise" fairly well. If by a strange chance the noise was about the same as the normal heart beat then there might be some confusion, this would lethe pacemaker to pace the heart a lit tle differently. Most of us without pacemakers have anomalous heart beats all the time and we don't notice.When I got my pacemaker my wife was so afraid that I called the pacemaker company and got them to re-assure her that I wouldn't die when I usethe welder! One final word on this is if it bothers you don't do it.. that applies to everything in life and there is risk in everything around you. BTW I anot a medical doctor and any advice is just my opinion, nothing more..

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    TFTD says: Sep 5, 2009. 6:24 PM REPIf you have access to a large belt sander(even a disk) I put my tung into a cordless drill and shape accordingly. Just make sure the everything is beingdischarged away from you. Works great.

    Johnathon Duchesne says: Aug 14, 2009. 8:48 AM REPit's much easier to follow your rod then going the opposite way around.

    Jon Wilks says: Sep 1, 2009. 8:32 AM REPif you can see your rod than you are going to go blind

    cheordinario says: Mar 10, 2009. 3:30 PM REPcool GREAT INSTRUCTABLE can you made an instructable to weld steel with TIG?

    appsman says: Jun 7, 2009. 11:15 PM REPIf you can TIG aluminum, steel should be a piece of cake. I can do OK steel TIG welds, but aluminum is much less consistent for me. Getting the puddto bridge two work pieces is easier with steel. The only thing that might be a bit worse with steel is warping.

    magickaldan says: Jun 3, 2009. 7:03 AM REPPractice Practice Practice. And experiment with some wrist movement, Try like a small side to side or figure eight movement. And try to keep a constantspeed to keep your weld pools a constant size shape and distance.

    magickaldan says: Jun 3, 2009. 6:58 AM REPYou weld steel the same way by leading the electrode. And you need some better technique if all your doing is holding the gun steady and going in a straigline. I was taught to move your wrist in sorta in a figure eight style while chasing the rod. It's hard to get a hang of but will give strong beautiful welds. I wasshowed by a friend who's been doing it forever, and has to have almost all his welds x-rayed, and has never failed.

    johnhutchison says: Jun 3, 2009. 6:18 AM REPI haven't ever heard follow your tungsten with rod when welding steel either. That wasn't how I was taught to weld. This instructable seems to have someinteresting approaches...

    shawnfont says: May 10, 2009. 8:21 PM REPI noticed it said to follow your tungsten with the rod when welding steel. I have been tig welding a very long time and never heard of this practice. I havenever seen anyone do that. Can anyone comment on this practice?

    Yerboogieman says: Mar 21, 2009. 9:20 PM REP

    That's probably the best weld i've seen since the old welding teacher at my school.

    kiyoshi says: Mar 16, 2009. 4:11 AM REPthose are pretty good welds! nice fusion at the toes and consistently convex (very slightly).

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