ISSUE N 07 NOV 2013~JAN 2014http://h-paper.hplhotels.comA complimentary publication by HPL Hotels & Resorts

THIS ISSUE

THE SEDUP FOOD TRAIL

Malaysia’s culinary legends have been well-recognised around the world. But beyond

the flour, meat and spices, what really goes into a dish? We turn the spotlight on undiscovered

gems rich with stories and taste.

Yam Rice—Perai 45 Lebuh Kurau Satu, Taman Chai Leng, Perai, 3700 Seberang Perai Tengah, Pulau Pinang9.30am to 3.30pm, daily. Closed on Thurs.

Visit Hpaper online at

http://h-paper.hplhotels.com

or sign up by scanning the

QR-code for regular updates.

Hpaper is a quarterly publication by HPL Hotels &

Resorts. We cover broad topics like travel, fashion,

retail, gastronomy and design with a focused regionalist

perspective. A concise companion if you like to be out

and about, soaking in the local landscape. In each issue,

the Hpaper team visits one of the 11 destinations where

our hotels are located. We aim to provide you with helpful

tips and tricks from our repository of local know-how.

Publisher HPL Hotels and Resorts

Editor-in-chief Angeline Loh

Online editor Cynthia Tan

Contributing writer Jean Qingwen Loo

Contributing photographer Alvin Toh

Design and art direction Bureau Pte Ltd

We welcome comments, queries, scoops or even a chat

over coffee. Please contact us at:

h-paper@hplhotels.com

or

Hpaper Headquarters

50 Cuscaden Road #05-02

Singapore 249724

Find us!

ABOUT US

HPAPER ONLINE

CORRESPONDENCE

MCI (P) 067/03/2013

Hpaper is published 4 times a year by HPL Hotels & Resorts. All rights

reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a

retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior

written permission of the publisher.

cover:

Breakfast at Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee is

the best way to start any given day in Ipoh. It has been

a favourite with locals for its array of local eats since

opening in 1937.

FROM THE PUBLISHER

singapore:

Concorde Hotel Singapore

malaysia:

Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Concorde Inn Kuala Lumpur International Airport

Concorde Hotel Shah Alam

Hard Rock Hotel Penang

Casa del Mar Langkawi

Casa del Rio Melaka

The Lakehouse Cameron Highlands

indonesia:

Hard Rock Hotel Bali

thailand:

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya

maldives:

Rihiveli Beach Resort

Gili Lankanfushi Maldives

HPAPER IS AVAILABLE IN

Sesame Candy—Batang Kali65 Kampung Bukit Chandang, 44300 Batang Kali, Hulu Selangor, SelangorTel + 603 6057 2634

WHERE THE ROAD GOES

Twists and turns on a weeklong road trip from Penang to Pontian put in focus some of Malaysia’s best-kept family recipes and inspire

new ways of taking in the peninsula’s old world charm.

Pictures: Alvin Toh / Words: Jean Qingwen Loo

Countless accolades have been showered on Malaysia for its culinary legends. Our week-long sedup (delicious in Malay language) food trail takes us on a road trip from Butterworth to Ipoh and down south into Johor state where we navigate Muar, Batu Pahat and Pontian.

We aim not to repeat names familiar with foodies, but to shine the spotlight on the underrated and undiscovered gems of small towns along the route. Our research involved lengthy phone conversations with foodie friends, filtering the onslaught of food blogs online and narrowing our list to the more credible ones. We contacted relatives in Malaysia and friends who could take us to their secret gems. In the process we were treated to the best of Malaysian kampong hospitality, where conversations with children of pioneer-ing hawkers who shared their joys and burdens helped us re-discover the joys of eating. It was food for thought, definitely. The chosen mode of transport was a breath of fresh air too. Mapping our trail and observing the landscape change from skyscrapers to low-rise homes and a seemingly endless horizon of crop plantations, we were forced to slow down, to observe and appreciate. Understanding the motivations behind a culinary skill often inspires us to look at it from a new perspective. This guide can be used as a loose reference point for readers to plan their own adventures and learn about Malaysia while enjoying some of the best offerings it has. We hope these stories also remind you of the beauty of serendipity. Venture off the road with an open mind and appetite, you never know what surprise awaits you.

BATANG KALI

SEREMBAN

MELAKA

BATU PAHAT

PONTIAN

MUAR

KLUANG

P.04 ~ P.06 P.14 ~ P.16

P.18 ~ P.21

P.12 ~ P.13

Butterworth is a major transportation hub for bus routes and railway lines that do not serve Penang Island. It is linked to the island via the Penang Bridge, the second longest bridge in Malaysia.

The capital of Negeri Sembilan, Seremban is the business and commercial centre for most towns and villages in the state. It is also famous for its delicacies comprising Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine.

Bordering Negeri Sembilan to the north and Johor to the south, Melaka boasts a rich cultural history involving Portuguese influence and a precious Peranakan heritage. Its historical city centre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

Muar is the second largest city in the state of Johor and has built up a reputation as the hub of Malaysia’s furniture industry. Much of its town centre still features rows of pre-war commercial buildings and beautiful Chinese-influenced architecture.

A district southeast of Muar, Batu Pahat, which means “chiseled stone”, is home to about 470,000 locals. It is growing rapidly and is also famous for its hawker-style food courts and distinct street food.

Located in the middle of Johor state, Kluang lies in an area of rolling hills and has been developed as a district for oil palm, pineapple, cocoa and tea plantations.

A former fishing village, Pontian is noted today for its variety of seafood sold at reasonable prices and hundreds of acres of pineapple plantations. It was also once the largest exporter of pineapples in the world.

TANJUNG TUALANG TIN DREDGE

GUA TEMPURUNG

P.07 ~ P.11

IPOH

Malaysia’s third largest city on the peninsula’s west coast was a town built on the vast fortunes during the booming tin-mining industry in the 19th century. Its city centre is characterised by eclectic shop houses reminiscent of yesteryear.

A 20-minute drive from Ipoh, Gua Tempurung is the largest limestone cave on the peninsula, bringing Geography lessons to life, with mesmerising formations of stalagmites and stalactites.

A massive industrial artifact from the era of tin mining industry in Malaysia, the floating factory is a reminder of Perak’s past and its forefathers’ labour.

A town in the Hulu Selangor district, Batang Kali is often used as a transit point to Genting Highlands, a hill resort in Malaysia famous for its casino and theme parks.

Often known as B.M, this fast-growing town is named after a hill and located in Central Seberang Perai.

A major industrial area located in Penang, the town was developed from a mangrove swamp and slowly grew to accommodate residential neighbourhoods that house employees in nearby factories.

BUTTERWORTH

BUKIT MERTAJAM

PERAI

A nameless pushcart responsible for churning out plates (about 100 a day) of min jiang kueh, it was a theatrical treat watching Mr Chua Eng Chun manage the long queues, hot iron plates filled with a bubbly peanut-flour mix and tending to his phone. The pancakes come in thin and thick versions and are nothing short of heavenly.

Peanut Pancake—Batu BahatA stall outside the food centre behind old Cheng Siu Primary School (along Jalan Abu Bakar), near Swee Kee herbal soup restaurant.12.30pm until sold out (usually at 4.30pm)

A traditional staple at weddings since 1923, the amount of work spanning a seven-day method of preparation is a real eye-opener. Proprietor Leon-ard Oh, whose grandfather first started making the candy, has plans to build on his family’s legacy. “It is very important that we do not lose traditional skills like this. Automating can help us, but you still need to feel with your hands to maintain a connection.”

A well-loved local classic, yam rice accompanied by pork innards and preserved vegetable (kiam chye) soup might sound like a odd play of ingredients. But the scene of hungry diners at Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice shows otherwise. The aroma is promising. The unassuming Mr Png Lai Heng, 48, who has been running the business with the help of his family members for the last 21 years, says: “The ingredients have to be fresh, it’s that simple.”

Away from tourist traps in the community of Buntong, locals swear by Cheong Kee Wanton Noodle as top of their leagues for staple of wanton noodles. Mrs Chen Lai Kuen, 46, whose father started the business from a rickshaw in 1969, still eats a bowl every night after the stall closes. From pork to dumpling and flour to noodle, every aspect of the process is kept within the family.

Wanton Mee—Ipoh542 Jalan Sekolah, Buntong 30100 Ipoh, PerakTel +6019 516 6781 6.30pm to 11pm, daily. Closed Sun and Public Holidays.

of indigestion pills into my haversack, you know, just in case. When it was finally time for our road excur-sion, no food review could prepare us for the warmth and hospitability we were treated to. Food, glorious food aside, we had the privilege of conversing with hawkers and chefs, all with colourful stories to tell. Just like how the ele- ments of a good film fall into place, the pleasure of dining suddenly made sense. Each dish was a hallmark of fine storytelling, an heirloom bearing the essence of a family’s history bound together in time by a single recipe. Perhaps, this could be the key in garner-ing support for dying culinary traditions and hawkers struggling to make a living: Empathy. Enjoy this year-end bumper issue. We wish all readers a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!—Hpaper

There are those who eat to live. And there are others who live to eat. For most people residing in Asia, life in our food-obsessed cities has certainly left its mark on us. When the idea of a road trip in search for Malaysia’s best-unearthed gems was floated, there was nary a dull face in the room as we got carried away checking out a list of food recommendations that had quickly accumulated. Over editorial meetings, dinner conversa-tions and coffee dates where we sourced for places to visit, we had to bear with slightly jealous friends who lamented about this “dream job” and showered us with the stink-eye. In preparation for the epic food expedition, which could send our waistlines expanding, I even attempted a diet and exercise regime just to make room for what’s to come. The beauty of the Internet empowered us with GPS coordinates and contact numbers ready on speed dial. Someone even tossed a pack

Hearty traditional discoveries in a sleepy town

05 06

04this spread:

01 Ong Cheng Huat Seafood serves some of the freshest and cheapest seafood in Penang.

02 An open kitchen focused only seven items on its menu translates to a consistent standardandaffordableprices.

03 Aplateofblanchedoctopusisdrizzled with deep fried garlic and served with a peanut-chilli sauce.

04/05 Afamilybusinessbornin1978,BMCup Riceisahumbleroadsidestallwithallof fourtablessellingroastedchickenand pork rice.

06 Takeaways are a popular option with neatlypackedportionsofthickgravy, roastedpork,chickenandplainrice.

02

01

03

Often looked over by tourists who favour George-town’s colonial atmosphere, Butterworth is an industrial town located across the channel ear-marked as an important transportation hub. Serving some of the freshest and chea-pest seafood in Penang, Ong Cheng Huat Seafood is an underrated gem for families and big groups. There are only seven items on its menu, which translates to a focused, speedy kitchen team, consistent standard and affordable prices. We arrive for an early lunch to crowds of diners under a metal shack. Within 10 minutes of placing our orders, a plate of blanched oct-opus (RM13), drizzled with deep fried garlic along with a peanut-chilli sauce, is served. The generous portion of fried bee hoon (RM5, serves 2–3 persons), not too oily with an aromatic wok hei is the staple as the restaurant doesn’t serve white rice, though diners are allowed to bring their own. Be sure to order the signature crispy prawn fritters wrapped with popiah skin (RM6), crispy spring chicken (RM6 for half) and sambal

brown siew bak (roast pork), char siew (bbq pork), roast chicken and plain rice, which was steamed in a small aluminium bowl. It is crunchy to the right degree with a kick from a potent green chili and garlic oil concoction, washed down perfectly with a bowl of preserved vegetable soup.

texture was comforting—soft yet powdery with cubes of yam and tasted of home. It is served with a variety of soups from bittergourd to yong tau foo (stuffed bean curd with fish paste), but it is the kiam chye soup with pork meatballs and innards which takes the cake. Mrs Png mans the soup with much precision as the fresh scent of parsley leaves and mild sour taste kept me going back for more. A highlight was the chilli padi and dark sauce that gave the dish an extra kick. The braised pork (tau you bak) (RM5.50) with pieces of soft tau kwa (bean curd), was a surprise and added another dimension to the experience. Order a set of yam rice, kiam chye pig innards soup and tau you bak, which at RM11 is quite a steal. Tastebuds now awoken, we take a short drive towards Beng Huat Asam Fish Chicken Rice, another eatery adored by the community for its chicken rice (RM0.70) with assam fish soup. As a slight drizzle turns into heavy rain, we arrive to the hustle bustle of owner Li Beng Huat, 40 and his crew of five busy chopping and frying away. With his white beard, Mr Li cuts quite a character (his face is used as the shop’s logo). The kitchen is stationed at the shopfront and one cannot help but get sucked into the

BUTTERWORTH 30 minutes / 22km from Georgetown Latitude: 5°25’N Longitude: 100°24’E

BUKIT MERTAJAM 30 minutes / 27 km from Georgetown Latitude: 5°22’N Longitude: 100°28’E

PERAI 20 minutes / 17 km from Georgetown Latitude: 5°23’N Longitude: 100°23’E

belacan (fresh chilli with toasted shrimp paste) for a pleasant spread. The star though, was the steamed fresh red snapper (RM32, serves 3–4 people), delivered fresh from Phuket daily. Steamed in a teochew style for some 10 minutes with freshly chopped garlic, ginger, pickled vegetables and chili, the taste of chunks of fish which fell off the bone, doused in tangy soup with a hint of spiciness was unbeatable.

scene of fried chicken (RM2.70) drizzled with soya sauce, dark sauce and sesame oil, bean sprouts dished by the heap and a bubbling pot of dark orange assam gravy simmering in the corner. We share a portion of mackerel fish (RM4.70) swimming in assam gravy rich and savory. Around us, empty bowls and plates are a sign of appreciation.

WORTH THE RIDEBM Cup Rice

74 Street Stall Jalan Danby, 14000 Bukit Mertajam, Pulau PinangTel +6016 557 3508Opening hours: 6am to 11pm, daily. Closed on Weds.

Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice

45 Lebuh Kurau Satu, Taman Chai Leng, Perai, 13700 Seberang Perai Tengah, Pulau PinangTel +604 390 0136Opening hours: 9.30am to 3.30pm, daily. Closed on Thurs.

Beng Huat Asam Fish Chicken Rice

215 Jalan Gan Chai Leng, Taman Chai Leng, 13700 Perai, Pulau PinangTel +604 398 3127Opening hours: 10am to 4.30pm, daily.

Ong Cheng Huat Seafood

2004 Bagan Lallang, 13400 Butterworth, Pulau PinangTel +604 331 4782Opening hours: 11am to 5.30pm, daily. Closed Mon.

FAST FORWARD

Excited by the prospects of journeying for ‘untainted’, heartland food, we move on to BM Cup Rice, a humble roadside stall with all of four tables helmed by Mdm Chow Yuen Chew, in her 40s. A family business born in 1978, the stall has weathered the years with its traditional recipe of roasted chicken and pork rice (RM4 for a small bowl, RM6.50 for a big bowl). The sound of a heavy cleaver on the chopping board entices, as engines flare from motorists eagerly awaiting their takeaways. One bite and I didn’t have to wonder why. Mdm Chow drizzles two servings of thick gravy on a generous serving of golden

For locals who drive the distance from Penang’s mainland in search of food, a well-loved classic is yam rice accompanied by pork innards and preserved vegetable (kiam chye) soup. We try out Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice, an airy and breezy kopitiam decked with lilac pastel walls and packed with tables of hungry office workers at noon. The aroma is promising. The unassuming Mr Png Lai Heng, 48, who has been running the business with the help of his family members for the last 21 years, says: “The ingredients have to be fresh, it’s that simple.” My mouth waters as I tuck into the bowl of yam rice (RM5.50) in front of me. Yam rice relies heavily on the quality of yam and is cooked with rice, dried shrimps and dark sauce. The

I sigh in content as I take a sip from the porcelain mug dotted with flower motifs. Rich, sweet with a hint of bitter and absolutely aromatic, there was no other way to start our hunt for Ipoh’s best cuisine than at Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee. A preferred place for breakfast by locals since it opened in 1937, the coffee shop looked like a scene straight out of a Wong Kar Wai movie with its gentle light, tables of chatty elderly bantering in Cantonese and busy servers whisking cups of coffee, toasts with kaya (coco-nut jam) and curry chee cheong fun (rice rolls). We move on eagerly to Ipoh’s famous Dim Sum street, helmed by big guns such as Ming Court Hong Kong Dim Sum and Foh San Dim Sum. Staying away from the throngs of people, we decide on the smaller Chang Keong Dim Sum restaurant, lured partially by its display of steaming baskets. Cheery duo chef Chang Keong, who has had more than 30 years of experience across various Chinese restaurants in Malaysia and Singapore, has been running the stall with his wife Sakura since 2002. He said: “Dim Sum is a way of living for the locals. We keep our food simple and close to their hearts.” A stream of people line up for their takeaways as we wolf down our hot big buns, har kow (prawn

dumplings), fish skin dumplings, glutinous rice, bean curd skin rolls and carrot cake, which was stir fried with generous helpings of chives, eggs and bean sprouts. Of course, there is always room for dessert. We make a quick dash for a bowl of soybean curd (RM0.90) at Funny Mountain Soya Bean. Established in 1952, Brothers Ben and Cliff Tan, who took over the stall from their father, dish out bowl after bowl to customers sitting in their cars under the blazing heat. What a drive-through experience! The tau fu fah, as locals call it, is smooth and served steaming hot with pandan syrup. Spoonfuls of bean curd slide down my throat. The desert is also served mixed with cincau (herbal jelly) or soymilk. A stone’s throw away along the famous tourist street Jalan Yau Tet Shin is the Wan Li Xiang Salt Baked Chicken and Duck. Having been on the market for over 30 years, boss Cheng Koi Sow, 46, runs a family business of chicken and duck farming. His signature salt baked chicken is flavorful with the aroma and taste of medicinal herbs bursting with each bite. It comes in eight treasures (RM18), ginseng (RM18), black pepper (RM17) and dang gui (angelica) (RM17) flavours.

JEWEL OF PERAk

Generations of hawkers leave their mark

01

02

07

08

10

IPOH 2 hours / 160km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 4°36’00”N Longitude: 101°4’00”E

this page:

07 Yamriceiscookedwithyam,rice,driedshrimps and dark sauce. It is served with kiam chye soup withporkmeatballsandinnards.

08 “Theingredientshavetobefresh,it’sthatsimple,” saysMrPngLaiHeng,48,whohasbeenrunning thebusinesswithhisfamilyforthelast21years.

09 Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice is an airy and breezykopitiampackedwithtablesofhungry officeworkersatnoon.

10 BengHuatAsamFishChickenRiceispopularfor itschickenricewithassamfishsoup.

Theluxuryhotelforfamilies,couplesandsinglesbringsthegroovetoPenang’sfamedBatuFerringghibeachstripwithitsrockconceptoffunandentertainment.26,000sq ft free-form pool—largest in Penang—completewithsandisland,waterslidesandpoolsidecabanas,Lil’RockKidsClub,TabuTeenClub,RockSpa,liveentertainment.There’salwayssomethingforeveryone.

WIN!Answer these questions

and stand a chance to win

merchandise from Hard Rock

Hotel Penang.

09

HARD ROCk HOTEL PENANG

0908

page 07:

01 Chang Keong Dim Sum restaurant is one of the many eateries serving Dim Sum,astyleofChinesefoodwhere smallbite-sizedportionsareservedin smallsteamerbaskets.

02 SinYoonLoongOriginalWhiteCoffeeis awell-lovedplacebylocalsforbreakfast sinceitopenedin1937.

10

09

11

12

Stomachs satisfied and ready to do some shopping, we take a drive out of Ipoh town to Tambun, a small town in the Perak state. On the way, we stop by Ching Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturer to pick up a box of freshly made meat floss lotus paste biscuits. Mr Edison Cheng, 32, whose grandfather started the business in 1949, shares that everything is still made from scratch within the shop’s premises. “It’s very meaningful to continue a traditional craft left by my grandfather,” he says. Tambun is well known for its majestic limestone cliffs, but more so for its pomelos (RM15 onwards) at Kebun Limau Bali (Tambun) Chin. Limau Tambun (Citrus of Tambun as the locals call it, are juicy, fragrant and thrive in an area of calcium-rich natural fertilizer throughout the year. Sweet pomelos are pale or cream in color, while the sour ones have a bright pink flesh. Other tropical delights like star fruits (RM5 for 1kg) and guava (RM4 for 1kg) are also available. We drive across Ipoh to Buntong, a cosy Indian and Chinese residential community. Away from tourist traps in the new town, locals swear by Cheong Kee Wanton Noodles and Rest-oran Ayam Tauke as top of their leagues for staples of noodles and bean sprout chicken. Over a boiling pot of soup, it is poetry in motion watching Mrs Chen Lai Kuen, 46, whose father started the business from a rickshaw in 1969, repeat actions of tossing and flipping

noodles (RM3.20) between pots of hot soup and cold water. The actions are deliberate and intuitive; the process quiet and neat. Since the age of 11 years old, she has spent most of her free time wrapping dumplings. A white-haired couple at the next table, whose weekly routine include driving here for a bowl of wanton noodles, is full of praise for the family’s business. “What we do with our hands is precious,” she shares. From pork to dumpling and flour to noodle, every aspect of the process is kept within the family, within home. “I eat a bowl every night after we close,” she adds. “People are sentimental and have feelings for food they love so we need to put our hearts into whatever we do.” Over at Restoran Ayam Tauke on Jalan Guntong, tables of hungry families slurp up plates of poached chicken, hor fun (f lat rice noodles) and bean sprouts, often touted as the holy trinity of a decent bean sprout chicken (nga choy kai) meal in Ipoh. Unlike anywhere else, Ipoh’s bean sprouts are short and fat. Locals believe that mineral-rich water from the surrounding limestone hills have resulted in extra delicious and crunchy bean sprouts, seasoned with pepper, light soya sauce and oil. The eatery is a hidden gem and popular among the Buntong community. In fact, the entire set up is located in the front porch of someone’s house. A sure way of discovering Ipoh’s hospitality at its finest.

03

04

08

0605

TheLakehouseisanidylliccountryhousein Cameron Highlands that overlooks rolling hills and verdant woodlands. Locatedaround1.5hoursfromIpoh,thisTudor-style19-roompropertyfeaturesastonewallfireplaceandwell-preservedEnglish artifacts. It provides a cool respite fromMalaysia’stropicalheatandboatsofamazingviewsofteaplantationsandthegreat outdoors.

THE LAkEHOUSE

Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee

15A Jalan Bandar Timah, 30450 Ipoh, PerakTel +605 241 4601Opening hours: 6.30am to 5.30pm

Chang Keong Dim Sum

34 Jalan Raja Ekram (Cowan Street) 30450 Ipoh, PerakTel +6016 541 5877Opening hours: 5.30am to 4.30pm

Funny Mountain Soya Bean

50 Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakri, 30300 Ipoh, Perak Tel +6012 588 6167Opening hours: 10.30am onwards, daily.

Wan Li Xiang Salted Chicken and Duck

47 Jln Yau Tet Shin, 30300 Ipoh, PerakTel +6016 591 9374Opening hours: 9.30am to 8pm, daily.

FAST FORWARD

Ching Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturing Company

145 Jalan Sultan Iskandar (Hugh Low Street), 30000 Ipoh, PerakTel +605 254 5126Opening hours: 9am to 6.30pm, daily. 9am to 12.30pm on Sun.

Kebun Limau Bali (Tambun) Chin

158258A Jalan Ampang, Tambun, 31400 Ipoh, PerakTel +6016 593 5912Opening hours: 10am to 4pm, daily. 10am to 6pm on weekends.

Cheong Kee Wanton Noodles

542 Jalan Sekolah, Buntong 30100 Ipoh, PerakTel +6019 516 6781 Opening hours: 6.30pm to 11pm, daily. Closed Sun and Public Holidays.

Restoran Ayam Tauke

849 Jalan Guntong, Buntong, 30100 Ipoh, PerakTel +6017 578 7251 Opening hours: 6pm onwards, daily. Closed on Tues.

07

this spread:

03 Asteadystreamoflocalscomebyfortheir breakfasttakeawaysincludingfishskin dumplings,glutinousriceandbeancurd skin rolls.

04 FunnyMountainSoyaBeanwasestablishedin 1952andservesoneofIpoh’sbestTauFuFah, a smooth sweet desert served steaming hot with pandan syrup.

05/06 Astone’sthrowawayalongthefamoustourist streetJalanYauTetShinistheWanLiXiang SaltBakedChickenandDuck,popularwith touristsforitssignaturesaltbakedchicken.

07 Tambuniswellknownforitsmajestic limestonecliffs,butmoresoforitspomelos atKebunLimauBali(Tambun)Chin.

08/09 ChingHanGuanBiscuitManufacturerisa household name for its freshly made meat flosslotuspastebiscuits.MrEdisonCheng, 32,whosegrandfatherstartedthebusiness in1949,sharesthateverythingisstillmade fromscratchwithintheshop’spremises.

10 LocalsswearbyCheongKeeWantonNoodles asoneofthebestchoicesforhomemade noodles and dumplings.

11/12 AtRestoranAyamTaukeonJalanGuntong, itiscommontoseetablesofhungryfamilies slurpingupplatesofpoachedchicken,horfun andbeansprouts,theholytrinityofadecent beansproutchickenmealinIpoh.

METHOD:

1.Chooseasmallbeanorseed.Almostany kindofbeanscansprout.Mungbeansareapopularchoiceeasyavailablefrommarkets.Driedbeansarebetterthanfreshbeansas

theyareunlikelytogobad.

2.Prepare and clean a container.

Dependingontheamountofbeans, anythingfromaglassjartoabarrelwillwork.

3.Washbeansproutswithrunningwater,

similar to washing rice.

4.Fillone-fifthofthecontainerwithbeans, asitmightbedifficulttomonitorthe

growthoftoomanybeans.

5.Pourwater(roomtemperature)overthebeans.Fillthecontainertothebrimandcoveritwith ameshlidorcottoncloth,securedwitharubberband.Thisallowsjustenoughairtopreventmouldfromdestroyingthebeans.

Soakthebeansfor8to10hours in a shaded environment.

6.Drainoffthewaterthroughthecloth.Openthecontainerandpourcoldwateroverthebeans.Shake the container. Reseal the container and drain the water again. Repeat this step 2 to 3 timesadaytokeepthebeanscleanandmoist.

7.Notethedateandobservethesproutsgrow.

Beanstakearoundfivedaystosprout.

8.Harvestbeanswhentheyreachbetweenonetothreeinchesinlength.Rinse,drainandallow

the sprouts to dry on a clean paper towel foreighthours,tillexcesswaterevaporates.

DIY: GROW YOUR OWN

BEAN SPROUTS AT HOME

STAYING ROOTED What is the secret to the fame of Ipoh’s iconic fat and short bean sprouts? According to Mr Toon Yew Pooi, 85, who has been growing them for the last 70 years, the answer is water. “Water is the most important, if water is not good, we can’t produce anything good.” Rain or shine, the ex village chief of Buntong village, who runs a bean sprout farm near his home, adheres to a strict schedule of watering up to 50 barrels of bean sprouts five times a day with ground water. Each time, he walks gingerly with a large hose on his shoulders, tenderly showering the sprouts in various stages of growth, repeating the same routine six times to bring down the temperature of the sprouts. The resulting bean sprouts are crunchy and sweet.

the whole peninsula. This particular dredge, retired in 1983 after more than 40 years of service, is open to the public. Mr Steven Ng, its manager, said: “Without tin ore our country would not progress so successfully, such that citizens of this generation are enjoying the fruits of our forefathers’ labour. It is very important for us to understand how our ancestors toiled.”

all of which have differing temperatures, water levels and limestone content. Easy to explore and popular among caving enthusiasts, there are various tour options ranging from 40 min-utes (RM6 for adults, RM2.50 for children) to a thrilling four-hour grand tour (RM22 for adults, RM11 for children) involving wading through underground rivers, crawling through holes and climbing vertical walls.

1110

Located in Gopeng, about a 30-minute drive from Ipoh, Gua Tempurung is the largest limestone cave on the peninsula. Geography lessons come alive as our guide points out the different forma-tions of stalagmites and stalactites. Trotting gin-gerly across walkways built for visitors, we gape at the majestic formations of marble, which play tricks on the eye. The cave is believed to have ex-isted for more than 10,000 years. It stretches for more than 3km and is made of five huge domes,

The Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge is a massive industrial artifact from the era of tin mining industry in Malaysia, which boomed in the early 1900s. Somewhat like a floating factory, tin-bearing soil was passed through a series of mechanisms to extract tin from other waste materials. In its heyday there were close to 40 dredges operated in Perak, with up to 105 across

Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge Ship

Warisan Kapal Korek (Tin Dredge Heritage), 9th Km, Jalan Tanjung Tualang, 31000, Batu Gajah, Perak Tel +605 370 2253

Opening hours: 8am to 6pm, daily.Entrance Fee: RM6 for adults, RM3 for kids

Gua Tempurung

APT Consortium Sdn. Bhd., 9A Medan Gopeng 4Jalan Raja Dr. Nazrin Shah31350 Ipoh, Perak

Tel +605 318 8555Opening hours: 9am to 4pm, daily.Entrance Fee: RM6 onwards

GUA TEMPURUNG 30 minutes / 33 km from Ipoh Latitude: 4°25’N Longitude: 101°11’E

TANJUNG TUALANG TIN DREDGE 30 minutes / 32 km from Ipoh Latitude: 4°19’N Longitude: 101°04’E

#01pitstop

12

We wander into a sleepy village in Batang Kali, a town in Selangor often used as a transit point to Genting Highlands. It is quiet, to say the least. Driving by uninterested dogs basking in the sun, half-naked men napping in the yard and a table of seniors engrossed in a game of mahjong, we were eager to pick up packets of Oh Swee Len’s famed sesame candy (RM5.40 for a packet of six), a traditional staple at weddings that have been in business since 1923. After directions from kind neighbours, we finally end up in the kitchen of Leonard Oh’s home. To say that the candy is a labour of love is an understatement. The kitchen is no ordinary kitchen, having been where Oh’s grandfather first started making the candy. The seven-day method of preparation, which produces around 100 kg of sweets, hasn’t changed too. After soaking, pressing, steaming and drying, large sheets of glutinous flour mixture are transformed magically into bite-sized rectangles, which are then fried in low heat. The finishing touches include soaking them in maltose sugar and rolling the candy with sesame or rice puffs. Delicious, delicious, delicious. My travel partners and I exchange glances of approval. Orders fly across the room for cartons of candy. Oh, who took over the family business after a career in financial consulting, says it is the nostalgic memory of his grandfather that inspired him to trade his fancy suits for sweaty t-shirts. “It is very important that we do not lose traditional skills like this. Automating can help us with things like cutting, but you still need to feel, to actually cook, to maintain a certain standard and connection.” Sentiments like these are what keep eateries like Restaurant Ken Kee alive. I starred intently at the claypot of yam and ribs noodles with dark sauce (RM9) as lady boss Avelyn Fong, 40, explained how her parents would cook this dish for her when she was a studying for her exams. “It tastes of home,” she says. Indeed. Generous chunks of soft yam are simmered in a broth of pork ribs and dark sauce together with homemade noodles for 20 minutes before served in a steaming hot inviting mess. “We cook it portion by portion,” she adds with pride. Other dishes worth tasting are the vegetable broth noodles (RM6), salted egg fried chicken (RM18), butter egg tofu (RM8) and Nyonya hotplate fish (RM30), which features a mess of assam sambal vegetables (13 ingredients, according to Fong) on top of a deep fried Tilapia fish.

CULINARY TREASURE TROVE

Years of tradition present more to this transit town than gas stations

01

BATANG KALI 50 minutes / 45 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 3°28’N Longitude: 101°38’E

13

this page:

01 OhSweeLen’sfamedsesamecandy is a traditional staple at weddings since1923.

02 Foralmostacentury,thefamily’s kitchenhaschurnedoutbatchesand batchesofcelebratorycandy.

03/04/05 The seven-day method of preparation transforms large sheets of glutinous flourmixtureintobite-sizedrectangles, which are then fried in low heat. The finishingtouchesincludesoakingthem in maltose sugar and rolling the candy withsesameorricepuffs.

RIB AND TARO

NOODLES

Generous chunks of soft yam are simmered in a broth of pork ribs

and dark sauce together with homemade noodles

for 20 minutes before served in a steaming

hot inviting mess.

03

04

02

StayatConcordeHotelKualaLumpur,Concorde Hotel Shah Alam or Concorde InnKLIAwhenvisitingthecapitalofMalaysiaandthesurroundingareas. Formoreinformation,visit www.concordehotelsresorts.com

WIN A STAY!City Escape! Answer these questions and

stand a chance to win one night stay in a

Premierroomwithbreakfastfor2persons

atConcordeHotelKualaLumpur.

CONCORDE HOTELS & RESORTS

05

FAST FORWARD

Swee Len Food Industries

65 Kampung Bukit Chandang, 44300 Batang Kali, Hulu Selangor, Selangor Tel + 603 6057 2634Email ohsweelen@gmail.com to enquire on where candies are stocked

Restaurant Ken Kee

1 Jalan Jati Utama 3, Bandar Batang Kali, 44300 Batang Kali, Selangor(Near Batang Kali KTMB Station)Tel +603 6057 1308 / +6019 628 6607 Opening hours: 8.30am to 7pm (Mon to Sat) 9.30am to 5pm (1st & 3rd Sunday of the month) Closed every 2nd & 4th Sunday of every month

CASA DEL RIO

1514

01

02

03

this spread:

01 SerembanKeeMeiSiewPau has more than 60 outlets acrossMalaysia,servingthe signature handmade siew paus and Chinese pastries.

NestledinthehistorictownofMelaka,aUNESCOWorldHeritagesite,CasadelRiois the perfect starting point to experience the rich and eclectic cultural heritage comprisingPortuguese,Arabic,Dutch andStraitsChineseinfluences.

FAST FORWARD

Seremban Kee Mei Siew Pau

1849 Jalan Tuk Ungku, 70100 Seremban, Negeri SembilanTel +606 631 6348Fax +606 632 3442

Baba Charlie Nyonya Cakes

72 Jalan Tengkera Pantai 2, 75200 MelakaTel +606 284 7209 Opening hours: 10am to 4pm, daily except Thurs.

Malim Jaya Curry Rice

G-11 Block Dahlia 3, Jalan Zahir 6, Malim Jaya, 75250 MelakaTel +6012 675 5664Opening hours: 8am to 3pm, daily. Closed on Mon & Tues.

Kedai Kopi Lu San Curry Rice

33 Jalan Haji Abu, 84000, Muar, JohorTel +6016 612 3963Opening hours: 8am to 4pm, daily.

Otak-Otak Hang Kee

In front of Kim San Public Market, Jalan Haji Abu, 84000 Muar, JohorTel +606 952 3358Opening hours: 9am to 5pm, daily.

02/03 BabaCharlieNyonyaCakesisadoor-to- doorbusinessestablishedin1988,which hassincebecomeoneofMelaka’sleading traditionalNyonyacakeshop.

04/05 AtKedaiKopiLuSaninMuar,famedfor itsauthenticHainanesecurryrice,third generationownerWeeMengCheng,42, whips together a variety of dishes for us to taste.

GOODNESS OF HOME

Packing along homemade goodness for the ride

One bite and I am hooked. It is tempting watching trays of golden brown buns emerge from a humble oven in a roadside coffee shop, but the burst of flavour in my mouth is another thing altogether. Our itinerary for the day was to skim the edge of Melaka for the famous Seremban Kee Mei Siew Pau (RM1.40 per pau). Based in Seremban, the Chinese bakery has more than 60 outlets across Malaysia, serving the signature handmade siew paus and Chinese pastries. True to its name, the pau did not disappoint. The baked crispy buns with barbequed pork or chicken fillings had a flakey and crunchy crust that wasn’t too thick, reminding me of some of the best char siew sohs (baked buns with bbq pork) I’ve ever eaten at overpriced Cantonese restaurants. The juicy fillings, with bits of onion, were lean, generous yet not too overwhelming.

SEREMBAN 1 hour, 70km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 2°43’N Longitude: 101°57’E

My greedy companions and I hop back on the car with a few boxes of paus between us and make our way towards Baba Charlie Nyonya Cakes, a door-to-door business established in 1988 by Baba Charlie’s grandmother, which has since become one of Melaka’s leading traditional Nyonya Cakes. We eagerly pick out favorites among the 23 types of kueh (RM0.60 to RM2) on display beside a home kitchen busy with ladies making kueh. Armed with a selection of Rempah Udang, Ondeh-Ondeh, Lebat Kacang and Kueh Koo Hitam for the long car ride ahead, we drive on towards Malim Jaya Curry Rice for some authentic Hainanese curry rice. Greeted by two bubbling pots of curry gravy and dark sauce simmering over a low fire, proprietor Leo Wah Fatt, 63, is all smiles as we ask him for recommendations. We end up each with a plate of white rice topped with savory braised pork, aromatic curry chicken and a side of stewed bean curd and eggs, drizzled with curry gravy and dark sauce. It isn’t a very pretty sight, but as silence sweeps across the table, our plates are clean in no time. “I think there’s nothing special about these ingredients individually, but when you eat them altogether, they compliment each other to bring out a unique taste.”

Our curry rice fix continues at the Kedai Kopi Lu San in Muar, where third generation owner Wee Meng Cheng, 42, whips together a variety of dishes for us to taste. The walls of the pink-and-green tiled façade are donned with family photographs, kids drawings and auspicious calligraphy blessings collected over the years. “This is tradition,” he says, pointing to whatever’s left of my plate of curry rice (RM3.50). “We are an old shop but we also believe in improving ourselves. It’s just like cutting hair, you’ve got to adapt to the taste out there.” Muar, the second biggest town in Johor, is famous for its local delicacies and products like coffee powder, mee bandung, tao sar piah and otak-otak. In the sweltering heat, we find ourselves on Jalan Haji Abu, otherwise know as Glutton Street, a 100-metre stretch packed with roadside stalls hawking a plethora of Malaysian street food. It is easy to spot Otak-Otak Hang Kee, run from the back of a silver pickup truck. Wrapped in attap leaves, the snack made of fish meat and spices was delicious. The fish option (RM0.60) was filled with tender, juicy fresh minced fish and power-packed curry spices, while the prawn (RM0.70) alternative featured succulent chunks of prawn meat. Frozen packets (RM5.50 onwards) are also available for sale.

MELAKA 1.5 hours, 142 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 2°12’N Longitude: 102°15’E

MUAR 2 hours, 184 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 2°3’00”N Longitude: 102°34’00”E

05

04

WIN A STAY!Make Melaka the pitstop for an overnight stay! Answer these questions

and stand a chance to win one night stay in

adeluxeroomwithbreakfastfor2persons

atCasadelRioMelaka.

08

07

06

06 AtMalimJayaCurryRiceinMelaka,locals delight in white rice topped with savory brisedpork,aromaticcurrychickenand asideofstewedbeancurdandeggs.

07/08 Otak-OtakHangKee,runfromtheback ofasilverpickuptruckalongMuar’s GluttonStreet,sellsdeliciousotak-otak, attapleavesfilledwithtenderjuicyfresh mincedfishandpower-packedcurry spices.Frozenpacketsarealsoavailable.

1716

Hard Rock Hotel Bali›› Vacation like a rock star! Enjoy urban chic suite accommodations and service fit for rock n' roll royalty because here at Hard Rock, a rock star of your status would expect it. Book the package and choose to stay 3, 5 or 7 nights to enjoy benefits ranging from chauffeur-driven 8-hour trip, in-room dining with a bottle of wine and shopping credits at Rock Shop.

bali.hardrockhotels.net

Casa del Rio›› Kids eat and stay for free. It's time to kick back and have fun with the whole family. Enjoy great savings with complimentary stay and meals for the little ones. Package in-cludes accommodation in a Studio King room, daily breakfast for 2 adults and 2 children (under 12 years), complimentary day bed for children, complimentary WIFI Internet access. Terms and conditions apply.

casadelrio-melaka.com

Concorde Hotel Singapore›› Say ‘YES’ to a night of festive fun this Christmas and New Year from 14 December 2013 to 8 February 2014. Check into our Deluxe Rooms from S$218++ per room per night and receive complimentary buffet breakfast, free wireless Internet access and late check-out till 3pm. Terms and conditions apply.

singapore.concordehotelsresorts.com

It’s a Suite LifeValid till 14 June 2014

Family EscapeValid till 31 Dec 2013

YES Room Package14 Dec 2013 to 8 Feb 2014

For more information, please contact us:

Tel +62 316 761 869

Email bookings@hardrockhotels.net

For more information, please contact us:

Tel +606 2896 888

Email reservation@casadelrio-melaka.com

For more information, please contact us:

Tel +65 6739 8303 / 04 / 05

Email reservations.chs@concorde.net

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya›› Rock this festive season with a hot deal that you can't resist! Our special room package includes complimentary wi-fi internet usage and daily breakfast. Kings Club room booking enjoys full Kings Club benefits. Room rates start from THB 3,500++ per room per night. Terms and conditions apply.

pattaya.hardrockhotels.net

Hot DealValid till 26 December 2013

For more information, please contact us:

Tel +66 38 428 755

Email rooms.pattaya@hardrockhotels.net

Hard Rock Hotel Penang›› As the saying goes, ‘the early bird catches the worm’. Save more when you plan ahead! Hard Rock Hotel Penang is swinging high again for you to play and stay with us. Book your stay at least 30 days in advance to enjoy 10% off hotel internet promotional room rates. Room is inclusive of breakfast for 2 persons.

penang.hardrockhotels.net

Concorde Hotels & Resorts›› Celebrate the season with Festive Feasts at Concorde Hotel Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Shah Alam and Concorde Inn KLIA, our restaurants present stylish settings to suit all merry-making. With gourmet Christmas goodies, lavish buffet spreads and wonderful music, there is no better place to celebrate the festive season! You can also plan a family feast in the comfort of your own home this festive season with our selection of home-made gourmet delights.

Visit www.concordehotelsresorts.com/festive2013 for the full list of Gourmet Christmas Goodies that are available for sale.

For more information, please contact us:

Tel +604 881 1711

Email reservations.penang@hardrockhotels.net

Early Bird SpecialOngoing

Tel +65 6733 8855 Concorde Hotel Singapore

Tel +603 2144 2200 Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Tel +603 5512 2200 Concorde Hotel Shah Alam

Tel +603 8783 3118 Concorde Inn KLIA

Festive Celebrations1 Dec 2013 to 1 Jan 2014

The humble beginnings of Aik Cheong Coffee took shape in a quaint shop house along Temple Street in old Melaka Town. It has since grown to be one of Malaysia’s established family brands with a production capacity of about 60 million sachets of coffee and beverages a month. The family-run business distributes more than 100 products around the world, including the popular white coffee and kopi-o (black coffee). Its plant in Melaka is helmed by more than 200 workers and includes a roasting facility where more than 3,000 kg of coffee beans are roasted every day.

“You have to wait till I finish the next 15 orders,” said Mr Chua Eng Chun, 47, with a look of concentration on his face. I nod eagerly. The scent of margarine and peanut in the air is too much to take. I was finally standing under the umbrella of this no-name pushcart responsible for churning out plates (about 100 a day) of legendary peanut pancake (min jiang kueh). The queues quickly form, as Mr Chua bounces from foot to foot mixing flour, turning hot iron plates filled with bubbly fix, sprinkling a very generous helping of peanut and spraying the pan with a secret concoction of peanut oil and margarine. His phone never stops beeping and it is humbling watching him multi-task sleekly with a smile on his face. The pancakes (RM5 for a whole plate of 10 pieces) come in thin and thick versions. Go for the thin crust, as it takes particular skill to perfect a thin-crusted min jiang kueh. Greasy and fresh from the pan, I bite through a rich, generous helping of peanut and sugar mix. The thicker version doesn’t disappoint as well. Mr Chua, who has been operating the stall for some 20 years, picked up his skills from helping his father who started the business more than 50 years ago. Wiping the crumbs from my face, I ordered another two plates to takeaway but was eighth in the queue. “It is a skill that’s very hard to teach,” he said, when I asked him about his plans of training an apprentice. “Being a hawker is not an easy life, but my family pushes me on.” Giddy from the pancakes, we move on to MMA Akbar Cendol (RM1), a stall that has been in existence for the last 80 years, to steal a breather from the heat. Touted by locals as the best cendol in Batu Pahat, the bowl of shaven ice, gula melaka (palm sugar), coconut milk and green starched noodles. It is one of Southeast Asia’s most celebrated traditional deserts, adored for its creamy and refreshing flavour. In search of some savory delights, we are directed to the Grand Sea View Restaurant. Rowdy with hungry families, we went straight for the kong bak pau or dark sauce pork buns (RM29 for half portion of 16 pieces). Glistening, the three-layered braised pork belly was soft, fragrant and mouth-watering, perfect with the white buns wrapped around it.

01

ROADSIDEWONDERS

Understated hawker heroes turn the spotlight on old family recipes

BATU PAHAT 2 hours / 140 km from Singapore Latitude: 1°51’00”N Longitude: 102°56’00”E

1918

02

03

04

05 06

07

this spread:

01/02 Pancakes are the stars of this no-name pushcart,whichhasbeeninoperationfor morethan50years.Morethan100plates of peanut pancakes are sold everyday to crowds who eagerly await a magical mixofmargarine,flour,peanutandsugar.

03/04 Toutedbylocalsasthebestcendolin BatuPahat,MMAAkbarCendolisa family-runoutfitthatservesbowlsof shavenice,gulamelaka,coconutmilk and green starched noodles.

05/06 The Grand Sea View Restaurant is one ofBatuPahat’slargestrestaurantsand popular with families for its dark sauce porkbunsandfriedfishwithfreshfruits.

07 BatuPahat’sfamoushawkercentres like Glutton Square at Jalan Shah Bandar,TamanSogaandTaman Banang,areefficientwaysof sampling its local delights.

FAST FORWARD

Peanut Pancake

A stall outside the food centre behind old Cheng Siu Primary School (along Jalan Abu Bakar), near Swee Kee herbal soup restaurant.Opening Hours: 12.30pm until sold out (usually at 4.30pm)

MMA Akbar Cendol

12 Jalan Engan, 83000 Batu Pahat, JohorTel +6012 739 9054Opening hours: 9am to 6.30pm, daily.

Grand Sea View Restaurant

21-1 Jalan Zabedah, 83000 Batu Pahat, JohorTel +607 434 6999 / 434 6067Opening Hours: 10.30am to 3pm, 5.30pm to 10pm, daily.

bottle feed baby goats, learn about the feedstock-processing fac-tory and observe the milking process. His vision is clear: “I can’t just let the children see goats. I have to build knowledge and show them by example through the workings of the farm on how to protect the earth and apply natural ecology.”

2120

FAST FORWARD

Heng Heng

766 Taman Anggerik, Jalan Parit Mesjid, 82000 Pontian, JohorTel +607 687 1975Hours: 9am to 6pm, daily. Closed on Fri.

PONTIAN 1 hour / 60km from Singapore Latitude: 1°29’27”N Longitude: 103°23’39”E

KLUANG 1.5 hours / 127 km from Singapore Latitude: 2°2’01”N Longitude: 103°19’10”E

Established in 2003 with just two acres of land, UK goat farm has grown to be a living advocate of the importance of ecological balance. Owner Goh Un Keng, 47, was a palm tree estate owner who turned to rearing goats for milk and meat production. Today, he oversees the care of some 6,000 goats, 4,000 sheep, as well as the production of crops like passion fruit, coconuts and more than 60 types of plants. The farm’s Argo Resort is a way for Goh to educate others on the importance of protecting the environment. Accommoda-tion options include chalets and dormitories where guests can take a break from the city way of life. A three-hour guided farm tour (RM35 onwards for children, RM40 for adults) lets guests

UK Agro Resort

Plot 8, Project Pertanian Kluang, KM13 Jalan Batu Pahat, 86000 Kluang, JohorTel +607 759 7555

Zenxin Organic Park

Plot 47A & 47B, Batu 9,Jalan Batu Pahat, 86000 Kluang, JohorTel: +607 759 5196

Opening hours: 9am to 9pm, daily.

Zenxin Organic Park is Malaysia’s first public organic farm and prides itself on being the country’s leading producer, distributor and retailer of organic produce. There are more than 80 kinds of vegetables, fruits and herbs on the market, all of which are organically grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides. There are plenty of activities for everyone in the family. Explore the farm on a self-guided tour by foot or bicycle or book a one-hour guided tour (upon reservation for a minimum of 20 people) to understand the workings of the farm and its philosophy of sustainable farming. We follow a shaded walkway that leads us through interesting plots of dragon fruit plants, passion fruit creepers, an organic herbs garden that grows more than 90 types of herbs and a ‘happy garden’, where guests help to maintain crops. There are also various camping and accommodation options, as well as fun farming activities for children to reconnect with nature and learn where their vegetables are from.

We scoot into the car, full and ready to move on to our final stop of the food trail. The road leads us to the father of Pontian wanton mee—Heng Heng. For pontian mee devotees, this institution led to the boom of such noodle stalls in various parts of Singapore and Malaysia. Run by Mr Loh Check Man, in his 50s, who took over the business from his father, the specialty of Pontian wanton mee (RM3.50), as compared to its cousins in Hong Kong, lies in the sauce. Instead of dark sauce, a Maggi ketchup-based sauce mixed with lard, soy sauce, vinegar and oil is used as base for the egg noodles. The fresh, home-made noodles are firm and crunchy and together with the sauce works out to be a tangy, slightly spicy and sour taste. “We don’t use inferior ingredients,” says Mr Loh as he pinches a strand of noodles to check its texture. “Our noodles don’t contain any preservatives and are made with heart.” As I slurped up the noodles on my plate, I paused to think about the conversations I had with hawkers we met over the last few days. Behind each delicacy was a story of heritage and dedication to one’s culinary craft, a history often taken for granted by those who consume the dishes. The food trail has ignited within me, a newfound respect for hawkers who bear family responsibilities and continue their craft built on love for their fathers. This love extends beyond the physical dishes and is perhaps what keeps us going in the search of food cooked with heart.

this page:

01/02 Heng Heng is an institution that specialises in Pontianwantonmee.Insteadofdarksauce, aMaggiketchup-basedsaucemixedwithlard, soysauce,vinegarandoilisusedasbasefor the egg noodles.

02

01

#02pitstop

Behind each dish was a story of heritage and dedication to one’s culinary craft, a history often taken for granted by those who consume the dishes.

Concorde Inn Kuala Lumpur International Airport

Amidst a sanctuary of greenery, the hotel is 3 minutes away from Kuala

Lumpur International Airport and 20 minutes away from Low Cost Carrier

Terminal. Equipped with modern amenities and within close proximity

to F1 Sepang International Circuit, Concorde Inn is an ideal choice for

travellers and motor sports enthusiasts. Kuala Lumpur city centre is a

mere 28-minute ride via the Express Railway link.

Jalan KLIA 1/60

Kuala Lumpur International Airport

43900 Sepang, Selangor, Malaysia

Tel +603 8783 3118

Fax +603 8783 1211

Email klia@concorde.net

sepang.concordehotelsresorts.com

HPL HOTELS & RESORTS

Headquartered in Singapore, HPL Hotels & Resorts is a hospitality management company, operated and wholly-owned by Hotel Properties Limited, a main-board listed company. Our collection provides unique experiences with high quality service in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand and Maldives.

Rihiveli Beach Resort Maldives

On the South Malé Atoll, an hour away by speed boat from Malé

International Airport, the resort island of Rihiveli comprises a collection

of thatched bungalows surrounded by a crystal-clear lagoon. Rediscover

the joy of face-to-face communication in a convivial, back to basics

environment—a reminder of the time before electronic gadgets.

South Malé Atoll

Republic of Maldives

Tel +960 664 3731

Fax +960 664 0052

Email info@rihiveli–maldives.com

rihiveli–maldives.com

Gili Lankanfushi Maldives

A short 20-minute boat ride away from Malé the capital of Maldives,

lies Gili Lankanfushi. This eco-luxury resort occupies a small coral

island in a sparkling lagoon, with jetties threading across the water

out to spacious villas. 

Lankanfushi Island, North Malé Atoll

Republic of Maldives

Tel +960 664 0304

Fax +960 664 0305

Email info@gili–lankanfushi.com

gili–lankanfushi.com

Concorde Hotel Shah Alam

Nestled in the heart of Shah Alam, the hotel is 30 minutes drive from

Kuala Lumpur city and approximately 40 minutes drive from Kuala

Lumpur International Airport. Overlooking the spectacular Blue

Mosque, guests will enjoy easy access to Shah Alam Convention

Centre, the Shah Alam Sports Complex, Bukit Cahaya Agricultural

Park, Sunway Lagoon Theme Park and world class golf courses.

3 Jalan Tengku Ampuan Zabedah C9/C

40100 Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia

Tel +603 5512 2200

Fax +603 5512 2233

Email shah@concorde.net

shahalam.concordehotelsresorts.com

The Lakehouse Cameron Highlands

Located 200 km north of Kuala Lumpur, set against lush state reserve

forests 1,000 m above sea level in the Cameron Highlands, The Lakehouse

is a Tudor-style country house overlooking the Sultan Abu Bakar Lake.

30th Mile Ringlet

39200 Cameron Highlands

Pahang, Malaysia

Tel +605 495 6152

Fax +605 495 6213

Email info@lakehouse–cameron.com

lakehouse–cameron.com

Hard Rock Hotel Penang

Situated on nearly two hectares of land by the popular Batu Ferringhi

beachfront, Hard Rock Hotel Penang provides luxurious service and

amenities with a unique rock ‘n’ roll edge. The hotel is 25 minutes

drive from Georgetown and 40 minutes drive from the airport.

Batu Ferringhi Beach

11100 Penang, Malaysia

Tel +604 881 1711

Fax +604 881 2155

Email info.penang@hardrockhotels.net

penang.hardrockhotels.net

Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur

At the heart of the city’s Golden Triangle, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur

is a 10-minute drive from Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre and is within

walking distance to the Bukit Nanas Monorail station, Malaysia Tourism

Centre, Saloma Theatre Restaurant, Suria KLCC Shopping Centre and

Petronas Twin Towers.

2 Jalan Sultan Ismail

50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Tel +603 2144 2200

Fax +603 2144 1628

Email kl@concorde.net

kualalumpur.concordehotelsresorts.com

Casa del Rio Melaka

Located 148 km southeast of Kuala Lumpur, Casa del Rio nestles in

the historic town of Melaka, a unesco World Heritage site. Meaning

‘Home by the River’ in Spanish, the hotel is the perfect starting point

to experience the rich cultural heritage of Portuguese, Arabic, Dutch

and Straits Chinese.

88, Jalan Kota Laksamana

75200 Melaka

Malaysia

Tel +606 289 6888

Fax +606 289 6999

Email reservation@casadelrio–melaka.com

casadelrio–melaka.com

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya

Overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya is a vibrant

beauty with a mellow vibe. The internationally renowned resort town of

Pattaya offers shopping and entertainment on a grand scale, all reached

by a short walk along the picturesque waterfront. The hotel is less than

90 minutes drive from Suvarnabhumi Airport.

429 Moo 9

Pattaya Beach Road

Chonburi 20150, Thailand

Tel +66 38 428 755-9

Fax +66 38 421 673

Email rooms.pattaya@hardrockhotels.net

pattaya.hardrockhotels.net

Concorde Hotel Singapore

Located on the lively Orchard Road, Concorde Hotel Singapore is

ideally situated for shopping, entertainment and business. Perfect for

business travellers, the hotel is within close proximity to the Central

Business District, Integrated Resorts, 5 minutes away from the nearest

Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) station and 25 minutes away from Changi

International Airport.

100 Orchard Road

Singapore 238840

Tel +65 6733 8855

Fax +65 6732 7886

Email singapore@concorde.net

singapore.concordehotelsresorts.com

Casa del Mar Langkawi

Set on the pristine Pantai Cenang beach, Casa del Mar—meaning

‘Home by the Sea’ in Spanish—is a Mediterranean-style resort just

10 minutes from Langkawi Airport. A few minutes walk from the

resort are a multitude of restaurants, night spots, shopping outlets

and a night market.

Jalan Pantai Cenang

Mukim Kedawang, 07000 Langkawi

Kedah, Malaysia

Tel +604 955 2388

Fax +604 955 2228

Email info@casadelmarlangkawi.com

casadelmar–langkawi.com

Hard Rock Hotel Bali

Sprawling across three hectares of pristine tropical property, the island

paradise is located in Kuta, the heart of Bali’s famous entertainment and

shopping district. A paradise for couples, families and singles, the hotel

is about 15 minutes away from the airport.

Jalan Pantai

Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, Bali

Indonesia

Tel +62 361 761 869

Fax +62 361 761 868

Email rooms.bali@hardrockhotels.net

bali.hardrockhotels.net

2322

We reaped a bountiful harvest from our weeklong road trip, which took us to more than 10 locations across Malaysia. Shopping for local produce was perhaps the next best thing we could do to savour memories of this delightful journey.

1 OH SWEE LEN SESAME CANDY

A traditional homemade snack made with

glutinous f lour, yam cubes and sesame.

8 WALNuT CANDY

One of Chin Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturer’s

famous products, this hand-made snack contains

a pleasing mix of walnut and white sesame.

13 TAO SAr PIAH

Him Heang Pastries is one of Penang’s famous

old bakeries selling traditional Chinese pastries

and delicious bean paste cookies.

15 HENgHuA MEE SuA

Rice noodles are a convenient base for soups or

quick stir-fries.

3 gAI ZAI BENg

Also known as chicken biscuits, gai zai beng

is a kind of famous Cantonese biscuit snack with

a distinct taste of five-spices powder

17 SErEMBAN KEE MEI SIEW PAu

Baked crispy buns with barbequed pork or chicken

fillings with a f lakey and crunchy crust.

2 PurE HONEY

Bottled honey is a popular sweetener in place of

sugar. It also has various uses in the kitchen.

6 DrIED FISH

Dried fish is served deep-fried and

accompanied with rice.

7 PrESErvED SALTED FISH

Fish preserved or cured with salt, which

usually has an overpowering smell.

4 & 5 BELACAN

Belacan is one of the most important ingredients

in the history of Malaysian cooking. It is made of

shrimp paste and traditionally used as a condiment

or ready-made sauce.

9 AIK CHEONg KOPI-O PACKETS

Coffee bags are a quick option for a taste of

old Malaysia. Just add water and sugar or milk

to your liking.

10 gOAT’S MILK BODY WASH

A product of UK Goat Farm, Malaysia’s largest farm

specializing in products from goats and sheep.

11 gOAT’S MILK LOTION

Some benefits of goat’s milk lotion include skin

nutrition, soothing bug bites and acne treatment.

12 PEANuT SESAME grANOLA BAr

A popular snack from Penang that is crunchy

and sticky.

16 COCONuT SWEETS

These sweets are vegetarian and an easy snack

for people of different races in Malaysia.

14 PONTIAN PINEAPPLE

These sweet and juicy pineapples are sold along

the road at the fringes of pineapple plantations

in Pontian.

ThedrivewayofUKGoatFarm,Malaysia’slargestgoatandsheepfarm,issurroundedby100acresoflushgrazingland.