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Issue Five: where culture comes first MANCHESTER INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL PLUS THE LOWDOWN ON STAYING IN THE CITY THE LAKES COME ALIVE INCLUDING THE CULTURE LIST FOR ENGLAND’S NORTHWEST Inside Heads up for culture
Transcript
Page 1: 205

Issue Five: where culture comes first

MANCHESTER INTERNATIONAL FESTIVALPLUS THE LOWDOWN ON STAYING IN THE CITYTHE LAKES COME ALIVEINCLUDING THE CULTURE LIST FOR ENGLAND’S NORTHWEST

Inside

Heads up for culture

Page 2: 205

PRIME NUMBERS: Contents

FEATURES:

FIRST OFF: Page 4 Perfect match... The second Manchester International Festivalfindstheoriginalmodern citypushingtheboundariesonce againwithtwoexhilaratingweeksof originalnewworkandperformances.

PRIME LOCATIONS: Page 8 48 hours in Manchester… It’snotjustfootballandshoppingyou know...Makethemostofaweekend inoneoftheUK’smostdynamicand excitingcities.

PRIME CUTS: Page 10 Events for summer & autumn 2009 Whoneedstoheadoffabroadwhen there’ssomuchhappeningathome? There’snoshortageofgreatevents inEngland’sNorthwestthisyearto giveyouanexcusetovisit.

THE ESSENTIAL LISTS: Wheretostay,whattoseeanddo...

Page 20 Manchester Page 26 Liverpool Page 32 Blackpool & Lancashire Page 34 Chester & Cheshire Page 36 The Lake District & Cumbria

THE CULTURE LISTS: Everythingyouneedtoknow aboutmuseums,galleries, theatresandmusicvenues...

Page 24 Manchester Page 30 Liverpool Page 33 Blackpool & Lancashire Page 35 Chester & Cheshire Page 38 The Lake District & Cumbria

PRIME SUSPECT: Page 39 John Squire Theex-StoneRosesguitaristturned

artisttellsuswhatmakesNorthwest culturegreat.

Have you cottoned on yet?

If you’re into culture, you’d have to be living on another planet to not get wind of what’s been happening in England’s Northwest lately.

Starting with the explosion onto the country’s cultural scene of the first Manchester International Festival in 2007, there’s been an ongoing barrage of reasons to check out what’s happening north of Watford.

Liverpool’s year as European Capital of Culture may be officially over, but the city’s not taking its foot off the cultural pedal. On the banks of the Mersey, the new Museum of Liverpool is taking intriguing architectural shape, providing a glittering contemporary counterpoint to the city’s historic waterfront.

In Cumbria, the amazing Lake District scenery is turning into one big outdoor performance space as a new festival, Lakes Alive, gives artists and performers the chance to do their thing against the backdrop of God’s own canvas.

And in Manchester, the second Manchester International Festival promises to go in the same direction as Ken Kesey’s bus with an even more adventurous programme of new commissions and performances.

And that’s just the tip of the iceberg in a region that’s been known for challenging the status quo in culture (and everything else you could care to mention) for the last 200 years.

So try a change of cultural scenery: pack away your preconceptions and take a trip to England’s Northwest — where culture comes first.

COLOPHON PrimeispublishedbytheMarketingDepartment oftheNorthwestRegionalDevelopmentAgency. Issuefive–April2009.

ToregisterforfutureissuesofPrime please visit www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com/culture orcall08456006040.

Primeiseditedanddesignedby HemisphereDesignandMarketingConsultants. PrintedbyGyroscopeonpapermanufacturedusingelementalchlorine-freepulpandwoodpulpsourcedfromsustainableforests.

Cover:Filter 2002,AntonyGormley,photographybyJanCheblik.Contents:CarlosAcosta©AngelaTaylor.PrimeCuts:P10‘Self-Portrait, 1986byAndyWarhol,Tate, London; KinderzimmerbyGregorSchneider,2009,photographybyJoelChesterFildes;Petworth Window©GarryFabianMiller,CourtesyofJamesHymanGallery,London.P12Sol Le Witt Wall Drawing #1136,©TheestateofSolLeWitt,photographybyJohnWilsonWhite.P15BachHadid©ZahaHadidArchitects;AntonyandtheJohnsons©DonFelixCerventes.P17Red on Maroon, Mural Section 4 byMarkRothko,Tate,©1998KateRothkoPrizel&ChristopherRothkoARS,NYandDACS,London.P18JohnathanPryce©GabrielPryce;Sans Titre, 1934 by DoraMaar, AngelsofAnarchy,CourtesyofCentrePompidou,Paris.EssentialsandCultureList : photographybyJontyWildeandJanChlebik. CastleriggStoneCircle©DaveWillis.

Allinformationcorrectattimeofgoingtopress buteventinformationmaychange,sopleasecheckdirectlywithvenuesforup-to-dateinformation.

ACCOMMODATION RATINGS AllaccommodationfeaturedinPrimehasbeen qualityassessedbyVisitBritainortheAA–lookout forthestarratingnexttoeachestablishment.

Thenumberofstarsgivesyouanindicationofaccommodationstandard,cleanliness,ambience,hospitality,serviceandfood.Generally,themore starsthehigherthelevelofquality.

GH: GuestHouseSA: ServicedApartments

PRIME SPOTS:England’s Northwest

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5

FIRST OFF:Manchester International Festival 2009

After the barn-storming success of the inaugural festival in 2007, the second instalment promises to be an even headier brew of new work and one-off performances by some of the world’s leading creative minds.

What festival director Alex Poots and his team seem to have cottoned on to is that interesting things happen when you explore what happens at the boundaries where artists and ideas meet. Take the huge success of Monkey, Journey to the West, which premiered at the 2007 Festival; who’d have thought that mixing an ex-Britpop musician and a comic book genius would create such a globally successful piece of circus theatre?

2009 sees yet more experimentation with intriguing genre collisions in a city that’s known for its appetite for pushing the boundaries.

With 21 premieres in just 17 days, you can expect Manchester to be buzzing with theatrical performances, art installations, music, intellectual debates and much more besides. At the hub of all this frenetic activity you’ll find the impressive Festival Pavilion in Albert Square, a place that you can wander into at will for music, food, drink and conversation, whether you’re a ticket holder or not.

Give it a whirl — there’s no telling who you might meet...

Perfect match...There’s chemistry in the air in Manchester this summer as a range of artists and genres get it together for the city’s second international festival.

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6 7

Matches made in heaven...

• Collaborative artist with interest in political history WLTM members of the public to help him get in his stride. Into rambling.Expect a big juicy slice of social surrealism in Procession, an on-street performance piece from the Turner Prize-winning artist Jeremy Deller. This celebrated organiser of artistic ‘events’ tracing the connections between history and the present day is putting on a 21st century reinvention of the traditional street procession down one of Manchester’s most famous thoroughfares.

Procession by Jeremey Deller 5 July, Deansgate

• 151-year-old classical band WLTM other laid-back local musos for heart-stirring orchestral performance. Black tie not essential.Mercury Prize-winning local heroes Elbow get it together with the original Manchester band – the UK’s oldest professional symphony orchestra, founded by Sir Charles Hallé in 1857. These two evenings of sumptuous orchestral arrangements of Elbow’s own material and other classics will be one of the festival’s hot tickets. Expect surprise special guests too.

Elbow & the Hallé 8–9 July, The Bridgewater Hall

• Much Garland-ed singer-songwriter WLTM ageing Maria Callas-alike for operatic debut. Must be good at languages.Expect lush strings and sweeping melodies at the premier of Rufus Wainwright’s debut opera, which comes complete with a libretto in French. The action revolves around the story of a fading soprano as she tries to stage her comeback in the Paris of 1970.

Prima Donna 10–19 July, Palace Theatre

• Transformational rock ‘n’ roll animal WLTM hero-worshipping performance artist for walk on the wild side. Wedding ring an advantage.New York art über-couple, Lou Reed and Laurie Anderson, perform together for the first time in the UK in an intimate evening of music, stories, songs and poems.

Lou Reed & Laurie Anderson 18 July, Palace Theatre

Surprising collaborations, beguiling match-ups, perverse partnerships — the Manchester International Festival have been acting as a mischievous matchmaker for 2009’s adventurous programme of events:

• Incisive filmmaker with problems sleeping WLTM mischievous experience manipulators for spooky ride through American culture.BAFTA award-winning director of The Power of Nightmares, the filmmaker Adam Curtis gets it together with theatre company Punchdrunk, of Mask of Red Death fame. Together, they turn a sixties office block into a multimedia haunted house, all to a musical soundtrack by Damon Albarn and the Kronos Quartet.

It Felt Like a Kiss 2–19 July, Spinningfields

• Uncompromising iconoclast, into variety of spatial concepts, WLTM old school tunesmith for intimate, 21st century baroque moments.International superstars of the built environment, Zaha Hadid Architects will be creating an installation cum chamber music recital hall in Manchester Art Gallery to cocoon a series of performances of JS Bach’s chamber works by instrumentalists Piotr Andereszewski, Jean Guihen Quyras and Alina Ibragimova.

JS Bach /Zaha Hadid Architects 3–18 July, Manchester Art Gallery

• Theatrical wordsmith WLTM bubbly ex-barmaid with GSOH for a night out at the bingo. Sally Lindsay stars in Neil Bartlett’s new show set in the vivid world of Northwest bingo halls. The Royal Exchange’s famous in-the-round auditorium will be transformed into a working bingo hall with audience members playing along as part of the action.

Everyone Loves a Winner From 3 July, Royal Exchange Theatre

• Performance art provocateur WLTM open-minded audience for extraordinary four-hour artistic encounters. Stamina essential.Manchester’s Whitworth Art Gallery is giving itself over to a marathon performance art installation curated by the self-confessed grandmother of the form, Marina Abramović.

Marina Abramović presents... 3–19 July, Whitworth Art Gallery

• Pioneer of auto-destructive art WLTM 21 willow trees for starring role in environmental statement. Upturned willow trees with their branches set in concrete and their roots in the air is artist Gustav Metzger’s way of making a poignant sculptural point about how we take our surroundings for granted.

Flailing Trees by Gustav Metzger 3–19 July, Manchester Peace Garden

• Seminal teutonic autobots WLTM loopy minimalist for musical experimentation and a couple of goes round the track. Must have own bike.Expect a tour-de force rather than a tour-de-france when Kratfwerk meet the master of minimal, composer Steve Reich, in the unusual setting of the Manchester Velodrome. Features the world premiere of Reich’s 2 x 5, directed by the man himself.

Kraftwerk ft Steve Reich 2 July, Manchester Velodrome

• Other worldly avant-garde balladeer WLTM local chamber ensemble for illuminating musical moments.The extraordinary voice of Antony Hegarty gets a Manchester airing in two concerts with the 36-piece Manchester Camerata, featuring new orchestral arrangements of Antony and the Johnsons’ haunting repertoire performed in an evocatively-lit auditorium.

Antony & the Johnsons 3–4 July, Manchester Opera House

For full programme and more information on the events mentioned visit www.mif.co.uk

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8 9

PRIME LOCATIONS:48 hours in Manchester

Getting hereTake the super speedy Pendolino trains up the West Coast mainline and you can get from London to Manchester in just over two hours. Trains from Glasgow take a bit longer, clocking in at just under four hours, Newcastle is just under three and Birmingham just under two. There are frequent scheduled flights into Manchester Airport from most UK airports, plus a number of low-cost airline options to boot. Plan to arrive for 7-ish so you’ve got time to check in before a leisurely introduction to the Manchester nightlife.

A place to lay your headIf you fancy a bedroom in the clouds you can head for the Manchester Hilton (1) in the sleek new Hilton tower, the tallest residential building in the UK. Alternatively you can try the RadissonEdwardian (2), a sensitive transformation of the city’s old Free Trade Hall that has kept a lot of the building’s original character. Around Petersfield there’s also a number of good self-catering options to choose from including StayingCool(3) and the BlueRainbowAparthotel(4). At the Piccadilly end of town, there’s a good range of places to lay your head (see the Essentials for more details), with theVelvetHotel(5) on Canal Street being the newest kid on the block.

Shaken or stirredWhether you’re staying there or not, take the lift up to the 23rd floor Cloud Bar at the Hilton for a cocktail with a view – on a clear evening you can see as far as the Lancashire coast. No shortage of quality restaurants to choose from nearby – the GrillontheAlley (6) is a good place to be seen, or for impressive British cooking in a canalside setting try Albert’sShed (7) or Choice (8) down at Castlefield. For something lighter, try Evuna (9) on Deansgate for authentic tapas and a superb selection of Spanish wines.

Cultural enlightenmentAfter breakfast, head off for a bit of culture at one of the city’s numerous museums and galleries. There’s quite a diverse selection, ranging from top quality art and sculpture (including a new Antony Gormley piece) at ManchesterArtGallery (10) and fascinating exhibits at the MuseumofScienceandIndustry (11) to the more individual and quirky offerings such as Urbis (12), devoted to all things relating to urban culture, and the contemplative ChineseArtsCentre (13).

A spot of lunch After your cultural morning you can either lunch in situ (the galleries and museums have all got noteworthy cafés too) or head off to the café hot spots of Canal Street or the Northern Quarter. Alternatively, aim for Exchange Square and start off an afternoon of retail therapy with a trip to the 2nd floor brasserie at HarveyNichols (14) or choose from a great selection of counter eating options in Selfridge’s funky food hall (15).

Retail therapyFrom Exchange Square you can head down the shop-lined NewCathedralStreet towards StAnn’sSquare (16) and KingStreet (17), taking in Armani to Zara and everything inbetween. Manchester Arndale has undergone a major revamp, with a host of new stores, including the UK’s second largest Top Shop. The city has also rediscovered markets in a big way – there’s a year-round programme of themed outdoor markets, ranging from the inevitable continental options to the more unusual fashion market.

On stage Make Saturday night a bit of a performance. You can catch a concert at TheBridgewaterHall (18) or experience the UK’s first theatre in the round at TheRoyalExchange (19), where every notable British thesp from Tom Courtney to Helen Mirren has trodden the boards. You can also take the 20-minute tram ride out to The Quays to catch what’s on at TheLowry (20) which could be anything from comedy and ballet to musical and theatrical performances.

All that jazzLater on you can find out why Manchester’s nightlife is justifiably famous. Funakademia at OneCentralStreet (21) is a good Saturday night bet, with fantastic old-school funk classics, or if your prefer your music live, head into the Northern Quarter to Matt and Phred’s (22), an intimate jazz club which always has something on worth listening to.

Out to brunchAfter a lie-in, head to the Northern Quarter where brunch is undergoing a bit of a Mancunian reinvention at independent bars and cafés such as Trof(23), Odd (24) and Oklahoma (25). To really push the boat out, try the Sunday special at one of the area’s authentic curry houses – it normally involves a slow-cooked lamb dish made to mother’s special recipe that‘ll set you up for the week!

Bohemian browsingFor some quirky retail therapy, take a wander round the Northern Quarter’s warren of independent shops and galleries, including vintage clothing emporia such as Ragsto Bitches (26) and the area’s famous selection of specialist record shops. Find unique jewellery and clothing pieces at the ManchesterCraftandDesignCentre(27) and the RichardGoodallGallery (28) does a great line in art, photography and music memorabilia. If you get peckish try the Bread andButterCafé(29) where they serve sensational home-made cakes, or Cup(30)part of the empire of local music legend Mr Scruff, where the offerings include fantastic pies and an array of funky teapots.

Take in the viewBlow away the cobwebs with a tram ride out to The Quays, where you can add in more cultural brownie points with a saunter round the Lowrygalleries or the thought-provoking exhibitions at ImperialWarMuseumNorth (31). Alternatively, take the 40-minute train journey to Liverpool, where you can see the world’s second most famous waterfront (after Manhattan’s) and grab some extra culture at Tate Liverpool and the Walker Art Gallery.

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Until 23 May

When we are married EverymanTheatre,Liverpool T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com J.B Priestley’s classic comedy gets a makeover from West Yorkshire Playhouse Artistic Director Ian Brown with a cast including tabloid bait-turned-credible thesp Les Dennis, plus Polly Hemingway and Tom Georgeson.

Until 30 May

Plastic Culture: Legacies of Pop 1962–2008 HarrisMuseum&ArtGallery,Preston T: 01772 258248 W: harrismuseum.org.uk Part of Japan UK 150, this poptastic exhibition looks at the cultural impact of 1960s Pop Art, including the influence of Japan in the world of contemporary art. Includes work by Andy Warhol, Cindy Sherman, Machiko Edmundson and Mariko Mori.

Until 31 May

Fashion v. Sport WalkerArtGallery,Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk On tour from the V&A, this exhibition explores the remarkable relationship between contemporary fashion and global sportswear brands that manages to turn a pair of trainers into a must-have fashion item.

Until 31 May

French Impressionists LadyLeverArtGallery,Wirral T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/ladylever Gem of an exhibition featuring impressionist treasures by the likes of Renoir, Monet, Degas and Rodin. A great excuse to visit the Lady Lever, with its magnificent collection of 18th and 19th century paintings.

Until 31 May

George Always: Portraits by Maggi Hambling WalkerArtGallery,Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk Liverpool celebrates one of its most characterful sons, the jazz performer, writer and critic, George Melly whose larger-than-life persona is captured in this series of drawings, paintings and portraits by his great friend, the artist Maggi Hambling.

Until 31 May

Kinderzimmer WhitworthArtGallery,Manchester T: 0161 275 7450 W: whitworth.manchester.ac.uk First major UK commission for ages from the international art world’s current hot property, the Golden Lion award-winning German artist Gregor Schneider. His vast darkened nursery

installation in the Whitworth’s south gallery is deliberately unsettling, with echoes of repressed childhood and a chilling sense of nursery rhymes gone wrong.

Until 20 June

Garry Fabian Miller: Time Passage AbbotHallGallery,Kendal T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk One of the most progressive figures in fine art photography, Fabian Miller creates powerful ‘camera-less’ images. He works in the darkroom by exposing light directly onto photographic paper through organic materials and substances such as plants, oil and water, creating unique images that have no negatives.

Until 25 July

Text Festival Various venues, Bury W: textfestival.com The interesting boundary where innovative poetry and conceptual art meets is the territory explored by this 12-week programme of events. Features exhibitions, public art commissions, publications and performances by internationally recognised practitioners and some of the newest talents in the field. Art as poetry or poetry as art? Your choice...

PRIME CUTS: MAY–NOVEMBEREvents this summer & autumnHighlights of what’s on across England’s Northwest

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Until 6 September

State of the Art: New York Urbis,Manchester T: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.uk It’s taken a while to discover its place in the city’s cultural firmament, but Manchester’s ‘city centre’ has finally found its groove. This latest exhibition is the first in a series focussing on the art scene in different cities across the world. It starts by mining the rich creative vein that is New York, giving UK audiences their first look at the work of a new generation of contemporary artists.

Until 27 September

Local Hero, Football Legend: The Life & Times of Sir Tom Finney NationalFootballMuseum,Preston T: 01772 908 442 W: nationalfootballmuseum.com Preston’s place in the history of football is given another plug in this exhibition celebrating the life and career of the city’s god-like genius of the pitch, Sir Tom Finney, one of greatest footballers ever.

Until 10 October

David Nash: Sculpture Installations Blackwell,TheArts&CraftsHouse, CumbriaandAbbotHallGallery,Kendal T: 01539 446139 W: blackwell.org.uk T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk Renowned for tactile sculptures made of wood from fallen trees, David Nash’s work is always vitally connected to the nature and environment of its site. The lawn of the beautifully-restored Art & Crafts house at Blackwell will be a fitting backdrop for two of his sculptures, whilst Abbot Hall’s installation comprises sculptures and drawings from his entire working period to date.

Until 1 November

The Beat Goes On WorldMuseum,Liverpool T: 0151 478 4393 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/wml Liverpool celebrates its contribution to all things pop, from the Cavern to Creamfields, in this exhibition featuring an impressive wealth of material from record companies and various private collectors.

9–10 May

Gtterdmmerung Weekend TheBridgewaterHall,Manchester T: 0161 907 9000 W: halle.co.uk The fourth and final part of Wagner’s ambitious Ring cycle is spread over two consecutive nights in this musical marathon by the Hallé Orchestra under its Music Director Sir Mark Elder, one of the world’s foremost Wagnerian interpreters.

13–16 May

Futuresonic Various venues, Manchester W: futuresonic.com Achingly-hip festival based on themes of sonic and visual arts, digital culture and social interaction that aims to illuminate us on future trends in modern culture. Artists include Kode9, Anti-Pop Consortium, Ariel Pink, Murcof, Jóhann Jóhannsson, Marnie Stern and Daedelus. You’ll either have your mind expanded or you’ll feel depressingly old.

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13–17 May

Keswick Mountain Festival Variousvenues,Keswick T: 017687 75738 W: keswickmountainfestival.co.uk Here’s a chance to have a go at all those adrenaline-pumping activities that you’ve never tried before. Learn to climb, scramble and canoe, or for the hardier souls, there’s the Keswick triathlon to test your mettle. The associated programme of talks includes one by Olympic rowing star, James Cracknell.

16 May

Philip Glass RoyalNorthernCollegeofMusic,Manchester T: 0161 907 5555 W: rncm.ac.uk Rare opportunity to see one of the contemporary music world’s most admired and influential composers in performance. The programme features the recent Etudes for Piano as well as classics from his extensive repertoire presented on solo piano, giving an unusual insight into the lyrical intricacies of his music.

16–17 May

Blackpool Pride NorthPier,BlackpoolPromenade T: 07926 116584 W: prideblackpool.com Many towns and cities celebrate lesbian and gay culture but few places do it with such gusto as Blackpool, with a riotous weekend of over-the-top fun and frolics, with artists, events and the prerequisite parade.

22–25 May

Hungry Pigeon Festival NorthernQuarter,Manchester W: seetickets.com&ticketline.co.uk Urban street festival over the Bank Holiday weekend where Manchester’s creative quarter gets to strut its stuff with a feast of bands, speakers, art exhibitions, fashion markets, circus acts, face painters and poets. The 5,000 capacity outdoor stage will bring the streets alive with headliners such as Nine Black Alps and Karima Francis.

23–24 May

Arley Horse Trials and Country Fair ArleyHall&Gardens,Cheshire W: arleyhallandgardens.com Get it on with Cheshire’s horsey set at one of the region’s loveliest country estates. There’s show-jumping, dressage and even a spot of medieval jousting by the aptly-named Knights of Middle England.

23 May–January 2010

Captured: The extraordinary lives of Prisoners of WarImperialWarMuseumNorth,Trafford T: 0161 836 4000 W: iwm.org.uk/north Find out the truth behind all those movie myths – Steve McQueen and co. had nothing on the remarkable tales of endurance, friendship, tragedy and survival that feature in this major exhibition about the lives of prisoners of war and civilian internees in Europe and the Far East during the Second World War.

24 May–20 September

Videogame NationUrbis,Manchester T: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.uk Believe it or not, videogames have now been around for over 40 years and this timely exhibition at Urbis traces their journey from geek’s bedroom to multimillion-pound industry. Even if you don’t know your Manic Miner from your Mario, you’re in for a thrilling interactive experience.

29 May–13 September

Colour Chart : Reinventing Colour, 1950 to Today Tate Liverpool T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool Originally shown at MOMA in New York, this exhibition explores the role of colour in art and design, from the post war years to the present day. Includes works by more than forty artists, including Ellsworth Kelly, Andy Warhol, Gerhard Richter, Frank Stella, Yves Klein, Richard Serra, John Baldessari, Dan Flavin and Damien Hirst, to name but a few.

23 May–30 August 2009

Lakes Alive 09 VenuesthroughoutCumbriaW:lakesalive.org

Lakes Alive is a series of outdoor events combining the magic of street art with the jaw-dropping scenery of Cumbria’s lakeland surroundings – imagine Cirque du Soleil against a mountain backdrop and you’ve got a bit of an idea what to expect. Below is just a taster of what’s in store, starting with the launch programme in May. Visit the website for the latest information.

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23–31 May

Reach for the Sky: The Lakes Alive 09 programme launches with a free, week-long festival of spectacular live aerial performances.

23 May WOW — Windermere on Water TheGlebe,BownessonWindermere Live outdoor entertainment with the Argentinian aerial acrobats Voala, performing against a glorious lakeshore backdrop.

24 May The Banquet Citycentre,Carlisle French performance troupe Transe Express turn the streets of Carlisle into a public banquet, including a spectacular finale where aerial drummers create a vast human mobile.

25 May Castles in the Air Towncentre,Penrith The 100-strong Castellers de Vilafranca from Catalonia build breathtaking ‘human castles’, up to seven and eight stories high.

29 May Walk to the Stars TheQuays,Maryport Street theatre, circus and surprises, culminating in a death defying double high wire walk by Sky Productions from France.

30 May Corazon de Angeles TheHarbour,Whitehaven Performers flying high above the harbour tell the story of a magical wedding.

30–31 May Zirkcus Plus BarrowPark,Barow-in-Furness Two days of the best in new circus with over 20 acts from around the world both outdoors in the park and in a specially erected Big Top.

11 July Shall We Dance? EgremontCastle,Egremont Magical open-air ball in the ruins of the castle.

26 July Dance Daze Towncentre,Penrith Festival of street and contemporary dance.

15–16 August Once upon a Summer’s Eve CrowPark,Derwentwater,Keswick(15) CurwenPark,Workington(16) The Alice in Wonderland story done with outdoor performers and installations.

28–31 August

Mintfest Variousvenues,Kendal See listing on page 18 for more details.

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14 15

End May

Reopening of Clitheroe Castle Clitheroe,Lancashire T: 01200 424568 W: visitlancashire.com Clitheroe is Lancashire at its most urbane, with designer boutiques, gourmet food shops and Michelin-starred restaurants. But what keeps it real is its gem of a castle, looking down over the quaint lanes with an air of history, as well as providing the perfect gardens to wander round on a sunny afternoon. The £3.5 million refurb has restored the castle’s medieval keep as well as creating new exhibition spaces in the museum, plus a new glazed entrance complete with shop and cafe.

End May

Dream: The Big Art Project SuttonManor,StHelens W: bigartsthelens.com Situated on a former colliery site just by the M62, this 20m sculpture is part of the Channel 4 Big Art Project and will be the UK’s latest piece of landmark art. Designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa, Dream stands as tall as the Angel of the North and is destined to become a gateway feature.

12–14 June

Concerts in the Forest DelamereForest,Northwich,Cheshire T: 01842 814612 W: forestry.gov.uk/delamerehome If you go down to the woods today, you’re in for a big surprise – a series of atmospheric outdoor concerts, this year featuring Paul Weller, Doves and Katherine Jenkins.

17–27 June

The Pianist RoyalExchange,Manchester T: 0161 833 9833 W: royalexchange.co.uk This hit show from the 2007 Manchester International Festival returns to the intimate surroundings of the Royal Exchange Theatre. Best known as an Oscar-winning film by Roman Polanski, this is the remarkably evocative story of one man’s time in the Warsaw Ghetto during the Nazi Occupation.

25 June

Chaplin’s City Lights PhilharmonicHall,Liverpool T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com The classic silent film gets the live orchestra treatment from the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic under conductor Carl Davis who has restored Chaplin’s original score.

26–27 June

Chester Races Weekend TheRoodee,Chester T: 01244 304600 W: chester-races.co.uk Everything a race event should be – top level gee-gees, fabulous outfits and lots of bubbly. Fancy a flutter?

2–19 July

Manchester International Festival 2009 VenuesthroughoutManchester T: 0844 815 4960 W:mif.co.uk Here’s a snapshot of what’s on offer at Manchester’s second festival of firsts. For more details, see the feature on page 4 or visit the festival website, but be warned – tickets went on sale from mid March so some of the more popular events may be sold out. Get ‘em while it’s hot!

FESTIVAL INCLUDES: It Felt Like a Kiss 2–19 JulySpinningfields DocumentarianAdamCurtismeetsPunchdrunkTheatreCompanywithmusicbyDamonAlbarn

Kraftwerk & Steve Reich 2 JulyManchesterVelodrome Tour-deforcebytheelectronicwizardsplusSteveReichpremieresanewwork

Marina Abramović presents... 3–19 JulyWhitworthArtGallery Epicandprovocativegroupshowexploringthecrossroadsofvisualartandperformance

JS Bach/Zaha Hadid Architects 3–18 JulyManchesterArtGallery Musicmeetsarchitecturewithexquisitechamberrecitalsinauniqueenvironment

Everybody Loves a Winner From 3 JulyRoyalExchangeTheatre IconictheatregetstransformedintoaworkingbingohallforthisnewplaybyNeilBartlett

Antony and the Johnsons 3–4 July Opera House Performingwiththe36-pieceManchesterCameratainnewarrangementsofhissongs

Flailing Trees by Gustav Metzger 3–19 July Manchester Peace Garden ArtInstallationpresents21invertedwillowtreesasacommentonthebrutalisationofnature

Procession by Jeremy Deller 5 JulyDeansgate AMancuniantraditiongetsamodernmakeoverwiththisall-embracingfreeeventbytheTurnerPrize-winningartistturnedmarchorganiser

Elbow and the Hallé 8–9 JulyTheBridgewaterHall Manchester’soldestbandandoneofitsmostrecentsuccessstoriesgetittogether

Carlos Acosta 9–11 JulyTheLowry Thedancesuperstartacklesoneofballet’s mostchallengingworks

Prima Donna by Rufus Wainwright 10–19 July Palace Theatre PremierofthenewoperabytheCanadiansongmeister

Laurie Anderson & Lou Reed 18 July Palace Theatre FirstUKjointappearancebytheNewYork artworld’spowercouple

Amadou & Mariam & the Beating Wing Orchestra 7–8 July The Pavilion Theatre TheMaliansuperstarsperformwithmusiciansfromManchester’smigrantcommunities

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31 July–16 August

Lake District Summer Music Festival Variousvenues,Cumbria T: 0845 64421 W: ldsm.org.uk A chance to experience great chamber music in glorious settings, this year’s festival has the Northern Chamber Orchestra performing a big Haydn Gala celebration, plus concerts by the Chilingirian Quartet and renowned pianist Nelson Goerner.

1 August

Hallé Fireworks & Light Spectacular TattonPark,Cheshire T: 01625 374400 W: tattonpark.org.uk One of the biggest and best of the ‘summer concert in a stately home’ vernacular, featuring the on-form Hallé in gorgeous surroundings. Pack a picnic.

17 August–17 September

Pennine Lancashire Festival of Food & Culture Various venues around East Lancashire T: 01254 688040 W: penninelancashirefestivals.com Celebration of all things foodie with events ranging from culinary canal cruises and pony trekking picnics to steam train lunches, champagne balloon flights, ale trails and brewery tours. Includes the famous World Gravy Wrestling Championship – seriously.

21–31 August

Manchester Pride Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 236 7474 W: manchesterpride.com Ten-day festival that is one of the country’s biggest and best Pride celebrations.

28–31 August

Mintfest Variousvenues,Kendal W: mintfest.orgorlakesalive.org International festival of street art and theatre, with over 200 performers from around the globe descending on this Lakeland market town, bringing its streets and parks alive for three days of madness and mayhem.

2–18 July

Chester Summer Music Festival Variousvenues,Chester T: 0845 241 7868 W: chesterfestivals.co.uk Annual classical music bonanza, which this year features a major gala concert in Chester Cathedral to commemorate the life of past music director Richard Hickox.

4–19 July

The Three Shires Textile Festival Variousvenues,EastCheshire W: textilefestival.com Two weeks devoted to everything textile taking place at the point where Cheshire, Staffordshire and Derbyshire meet.

7 July–2 September

John Squire: Heat, Light, Death and Industry GalleryOldham,Oldham T: 0161 770 4653 W: galleryoldham.org.uk The Stone Roses guitarist has something of a resurrection as a successful contemporary artist with this exhibition of his latest work.

18, 21, 23 & 25 July

Rigoletto ClonterOperaTheatre,Congleton,Cheshire T: 01260 224514 W: clonteropera.com An indoor opera theatre surrounded by beautiful woodland, this is Cheshire’s equivalent of Glyndebourne – the perfect way to spend a summer’s evening.

20–26 July

24:7 Theatre Festival Various venues, Manchester T: 0845 408 4101 W: 247theatrefestival.co.uk As the city where the UK’s first rep theatre was established in 1908, Manchester has a passion for all things theatrical. This week-long festival features a series of innovative and original performances taking in place in a variety of unusual venues. Guaranteed to throw up some real gems.

22–26 July

RHS Show Tatton Park Cheshire T: 0844 209 1810 W: rhs.org.uk/tattonpark Now in its 11th year, this annual horticultural bonanza is one of the must-sees of the UK’s annual gardening calendar.

24 July–5 September

Rank GrundyArtGallery,Blackpool T: 01253 478170 W: blackpool.gov.uk/grundyartgallery Exhibition that examines how artists from the Renaissance to the present day have represented the idea of social order, with works ranging from Holbein to Richter.

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Opening 2010

Museum of Liverpool Pier Head, Liverpool W: liverpoolmusuems.org.uk/mol Liverpool’s year as European Capital of Culture may be over but the biggest piece of its legacy jigsaw is to be found taking shape down at the Pier Head as a head-turning new piece of contemporary architecture makes its presence felt next to the historic Three Graces.

Setting out to do for Liverpool what the Guggenheim did for Bilbao, the Museum of Liverpool is the city’s 21st century statement – about itself, its heritage and its future ambitions. With over 8,000 sqm of public space, it is the biggest newly-built national museum in the UK for over a century, and the first ever in the world to be solely devoted to the history, character and people of a regional city.

But then Liverpool does exert a global significance that few cities can match. From its impact on world trade and the opening up of America, to its huge influence on the world of popular culture, it’s a place that gleefully wears its heart on its sleeve. Come 2010 it will also have a superb new venue in which to show off its remarkable heritage and share its unique outlook on life with the world.

29–30 August

Creamfields Daresbury,Halton,Cheshire W: creamfields.com It wouldn’t be August Bank Holiday without Creamfields, the UK’s biggest dance festival. Big it up for this year’s line-up, which includes Basement Jaxx, Dizzee Rascal and Mylo.

4 September–8 November

Blackpool Illuminations BlackpoolPromenade W: visitblackpool.com The biggest free light show on earth has been pulling in the crowds since 1879, but you’ll be pleased to hear it’s had a serious makeover since then, with events now including the more contemporary Festival of Light and the World Firework Championship which culminates with a spectacular grand final on 2 October. Best way to enjoy the spectacle is to grab a bag of chips and hop on an open-top tram along the promenade.

25 September–13 December

Flashback: Bridget Riley WalkerArtGallery,Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk First in a series of exhibitions bringing together outstanding early works by high profile British artists, and setting them against major recent pieces. Begins with the abstract painter Bridget Riley.

23–27 September

Abandon Normal Devices (AND) FACT,Liverpool T: 0151 707 4444 W: andfestival.org.uk Inaugural festival of all that’s new in cinema and digital culture that debuts in Liverpool for 2009 but with plans to expand to other cities and locations across the region in 2010. Expect boundaries to be pushed...

26 September–10 January 2010

Angels of Anarchy: Women Artists and Surrealism ManchesterArtGallery,Manchester T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.org For this blockbuster exhibition, Manchester Art Gallery has assembled a range of work by some of the world’s most important women surrealists, including heroine artists such as Frida Kahlo, Lee Miller and Meret Oppenheimer. Expect a host of linked events and activities to help you explore the connections with Manchester’s heritage of female radicalism, from Mrs Gaskell to the Pankhursts and beyond.

2–31 October

The Caretaker EverymanTheatre,Liverpool T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com Former Everyman alumnus Jonathan Pryce returns to Liverpool to play Davies in Harold Pinter’s masterpiece.

2 October–21 March 2010

Mark Rothko: The Seagram Murals Tate Liverpool T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool A Mark Rothko exhibition is always an event, but this one is extra special for Tate Liverpool as The Seagram Murals were part of the gallery’s original opening back in 1988. Famously commissioned for a swanky restaurant in the Seagram building in New York, Rothko withdrew the paintings and gave the commission money back after deciding that it wasn’t a suitable venue for viewing art.

3 October–July 2010

Darwin: in the Evolutionary City ManchesterMuseum,Manchester T: 0161 275 2634 W: museum.manchester.ac.uk Manchester’s contribution to the worldwide series of Darwin anniversary events is fitting on so many levels, not least that its taking place at the Manchester Museum, which was originally founded in the 1880s specifically to promote what was then the incredibly controversial Darwinian view of evolution. This major exhibition will look at his life and the impact and legacy of his theory, from the evolutionary example of the Manchester moth (that evolved its markings to blend into the city’s soot-blackened 19th century brickwork) to the darker side of Darwin and the taboo subject of science vs faith.

21–24 October

Matthew Bourne’s Dorian Gray TheLowry,SalfordQuays T: 0870 787 5780 W: thelowry.com Oscar Wilde’s gothic fable becomes a darkly seductive black fairytale told in dance by master storyteller Bourne.

End October

Re-opening of the People’s History Museum People’sHistoryMuseum,Manchester T: 0161 236 5725 W: phm.org.uk Re-opening after a full-revamp and major extension, the People’s History Museum couldn’t be anywhere else but Manchester.

The original radical city makes a fitting home for collections which include the labour movement’s national archive and a treasured collection of marching banners that are testament to both cause and craft.

21–22 November

Kendal Mountain Festival Variousvenues,Kendal,Cumbria T: 01539 725133 W: mountainfilm.co.uk Festival devoted to all things vertical, from film, books and art to photography, humour and drama. This internationally-renowned crag-hoppers convention attracts top adventurers, climbers, writers and film-makers from around the world.

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Manchester’s looking up, both figuratively and literally. There’s a buzz about the place that means it’s as vibrant and immediate as any European capital, with shards of steel and glass beginning to pierce the sky as Manchester comes over all Manhattan.

The city’s now the ideal destination for the cosmopolitan weekender, but its contemporary attitude is still mixed with the down-to-earth humour and a genuine, no-nonsense approach to life that you’d expect in the city that’s consistently shown that there are no limits to its imagination and its ambition.

If you can, make a trip for the Manchester International Festival, when the city’s streets and squares will be a riot of activity, but, whenever you visit, the city’s rich selection of museums, galleries and theatres mean you’ll never be short of things to see and do.

GETTING HEREBy planeOne of the top 20 airports in the world, you can fly into Manchester from over 200 worldwide destinations. There’s a direct half hourly rail service into the city centre that takes about 20 minutes or alternatively you can take a cab for the approximate nine-mile trip.

By train On the west coast mainline service from London to Glasgow – services are frequent so one of Mr Branson’s Pendolinos will get you to Manchester from London in just over two hours. There are frequent direct trains from Manchester to Liverpool, so you can sample a bit of what both cities have to offer without too much difficulty.

By roadManchester’s at the centre of the extensive Northwest motorway network so it’s easy to get at from all sides of the country. London’s about a three-hour drive and you can nip down the M62 to Liverpool, just 35 miles away, in no time at all.

GET THE INFO…W:visitmanchester.comT: 0871 222 8223

PLACES TO STAYThe Lowry Hotel 50DearmansPlace,ChapelWharfM35LH T: 0161 827 4000 W:thelowryhotel.comManchester’s first five star hotel is actually located on the Salford side of the river Irwell, where the clean white exterior of one of Rocco Forte’s landmark hotels fits perfectly against the sweeping curves of Santiago Calatrava’s Trinity Bridge. All the comfort and mod cons you’d expect, plus a luxury spa and the opportunity to spot the celebs who’ve been performing at the nearby MEN Arena as they hang out in the chic riverside bar after their gigs.

Radisson Edwardian FreeTradeHall,PeterStreetM25GPT: 0161 835 9929 W:radisson.comFive star luxury in one of Manchester’s landmark historic buildings. Built originally as a paean to the principals of free trade and democracy, the Free Trade Hall spent most of its life as a concert venue, being both the home of the Hallé Orchestra and the place where the Sex Pistols played a memorable gig. Its reincarnation as a contemporary hotel has been handled sensitively, with the musical theme pervading its suites, restaurants and bars.

Hilton Manchester 303DeansgateM34LQT: 0161 870 1600 W:hilton.co.uk/manchesterCast your eye over Manchester’s evolving cityscape from Beetham Tower, the gleaming glass edifice that punctuates the city skyline. The bottom half is given over to the Hilton Manchester, whose cool, Scandinavian-esque look and top-notch facilities bagged it a place on Condé Nast Traveller’s hotlist for 2007. Take the trip up to the lush cocktail bar on the 23rd floor for giddying panoramic views over the city and the countryside beyond.

The Midland Hotel PeterStreetM602DST: 0161 236 3333 W:qhotels.co.ukThis stately red brick edifice is Manchester’s traditional landmark hotel, dating from 1903. A Grade II-listed building, it’s been brought up to date for the 21st century, ensuring that every luxury is readily available, whilst still keeping its stately sense of history.

Crowne Plaza 70ShudehillM44APT: 0161 828 8600 W:cpmanchester.comShiny new modern hotel which is in a great location, right on the edge of the Northern Quarter and very conveniently located for Exchange Square, Urbis and ideal if you’re attending an event at the Arena. The on-site restaurant, the Glasshouse comes highly recommended too.

ABode Manchester 107PiccadillyM12DBT: 0161 247 7744 W:abodehotels.co.uk/manchesterThis chic, contemporary refurbishment of a Victorian cotton merchant’s warehouse is the latest addition to chef Michael Caines’ hotel empire. The eponymous MC restaurant on the hotel’s lower floor has had the city’s gastronomes raving since it opened.

City Inn Manchester 1PiccadillyPlace,1AuburnStreetM13DGT: 0161 228 0008 W:cityinn.comIf you like your hotels simple, stylish and contemporary then the City Inn is an ideal choice. It’s in a very handy location, connected by a curving footbridge to Piccadilly station, with a great restaurant where, weather permitting, you can dine al-fresco. Try a cocktail or two in the comfy booths in the bar.

Malmaison Manchester Piccadilly M1 1LZT: 0161 278 1000 W: malmaison.comHoused in a Grade I-listed Edwardian warehouse, this smart and somewhat theatrical hotel has all the touches you’d expect from a Mal. Well located near Piccadilly station and close to Canal Street, the interior is all rich colours, plush carpets and velvet cushions, producing a suitably seductive mood for cocktail hour.

Velvet Manchester AWAITINGINSPECTION

2CanalStreetM13HET: 0161 278 1000 W: velvetmanchester.comSituated at the more chilled end of Manchester’s gay village, Velvet has been one of Canal Street’s best destinations for food and drink for over a decade. The new addition of 19 New York loft-style bedrooms in the adjacent Velvet Hotel means you don’t have far to walk home.

The Place Hotel SA 1DucieStreet,PiccadillyM12TPT: 0161 778 7500 W:theplacehotel.comConveniently located apartment-hotel, next to Piccadilly railway station. A conversion of one of Manchester’s typical red-brick warehouses, it has retained many original Victorian features although not at the expense of comfort and contemporary style.

Staying Cool SA & Castlefield,ManchesterCentraland CathedralQuarterT: 0161 832 4060 W: stayingcool.comThese chic, serviced apartments are located in a number of good spots across the city and provide boutique self-catering accommodation with first class hotel-type services. Each one is individually designed with great attention to detail and you even get an Elle Decoration-style lowdown on all the design features should you take a fancy to the soft furnishings.

THE ESSENTIALS: Manchester

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PLACES TO EAT MC Restaurant ABodeHotel,107PiccadillyM12DBT: 0161 247 7744This eponymous venture from Michael Caines, the two-starred Michelin chef, has upped the city’s dining ante with its sublime modern British cooking. Recently had rave reviews from The Guardian’s notoriously hard-to-please food critic, Jay Rayner

Harvey Nicks Brasserie 21CathedralStreetM11AD T: 0161 828 8888 W:harveynichols.com The second floor of this shopping mecca offers great brasserie food, plus an award-winning restaurant with panoramic views over Exchange Square.

Yang Sing34PrincessStreetM14JYT: 0161 236 2200Frequently cited as the best Chinese restaurant in Europe, this Manchester institution has a vast 300-dish menu – the best plan is just to say ‘feed me’ and let them bring you the day’s specialities.

Grado NewYorkStreet,PiccadillyM14BDT: 0161 238 9790This offering from Lancashire gastropreneur Paul Heathcote is a surprisingly authentic tapas bar and restaurant with a wine list of over 100 Spanish specialities. Muy bien.

The ModernUrbis,CathedralGardensM43BGT: 0161 605 8200 W:themodernmcr.co.ukDine in style at the top of the city’s signature exhibition centre, Urbis. If you just want to enjoy the bird’s eye view there’s an achingly-cool cocktail bar where you can while away a Martini or two.

Mr Thomas’s Chop House52CrossStreetM27ART: 0161 832 2245One of the best wine lists in town, all the better to wash down the exemplary English food which yes, does include chops. Stonking portions so make sure you arrive hungry.

Albert’s Shed Eastgate,20CastleStreetM34LZ T: 0161 839 9818 W:albertsshed.com Situated right next to the picturesque Castlefield canal basin, this predominantly Italian restaurant is a good choice for alfresco dining in the summer. Bizarre name comes from the owner of the tool shed that once occupied the site.

Earth Café16–20TurnerStreet,NorthernQuarterM41DZT: 0161 834 1996Housed in the Manchester Buddhist Centre, this vegan-friendly café is a haven of peace and tranquillity. The fresh juice combinations are full of positive karma but the wheatgrass shots are a bit of an acquired taste.

Ning 92–94OldhamStreet,NorthernQuarterM41LJT: 0161 238 9088A funky addition to the Northern Quarter restaurant scene, Ning serves a fantastic range of fresh and aromatic South East Asian food. Reckoned by some to have the best Pad Thai this side of Bangkok.

Grill on the AlleyRidgefield,(justbehindDeansgate)M26EGT: 0161 833 3465Seriously up-market steakhouse where you can dine on specially-massaged Kobe beef or choose your own lobster.

PLACES TO DRINK Peveril of the Peak127GreatBridgewaterStreetM157Q T: 0161 236 6364This gem of a pub is well worth seeking out. The splendidly tiled green exterior is matched by the splendid ales on offer inside.

The Briton’s Protection50GreatBridgewaterStreetM15LE T: 0161 236 5895 Historic pub with an epic whisky selection where you can rub shoulders with the Hallé’s brass section as they nip out the back of The Bridgewater Hall for an interval half.

NoHoStevensonSquare,NorthernQuarterM11FB T: 0161 236 5381 W: noho-bar.comThis quirky independent is set in a roomy Grade-II listed building with parquet floors and floor to ceiling windows. Street art splashed walls and good cocktails.

Castlefield The area that started the Manchester café bar scene is still home to some of its best, particularly if you want to sit outside and enjoy the view.

Canal Street The UK’s original gay village is still one of the most exciting areas of the city, with a range of bars and cafés running along the canalside.

Northern QuarterBy day it’s the place to shop for hip vintage clothing, vinyl and crafts, by night it’s got a range of individualistic bars, from the laid-back quirkiness of Odd and Trof to the sophisticated mixology of Walrus and the hard-to-find Socio Rehab (it’s on Edge St).

THINGS TO SEEManchester Town Hall AlbertSquareM602LET: 0161 234 5000Feast your eyes on this gothic glory that is a testament to Victorian civic pride. Wonderful arched ceilings and mosaic floors with symbolism built into every stonework cornice and stained glass window. Doubles as the Houses of Parliament in many a TV drama.

Chethams School of MusicLongMillgateM31SBT: 0161 834 9644 Originally founded in the 15th century, this remarkable collection of buildings is one of Manchester’s hidden jewels. It’s got a 17th century quadrangle that wouldn’t look out of place in Oxford or Cambridge, a medieval banqueting hall and the oldest library in the English-speaking world.

John Rylands Library150DeansgateM33EHT: 0161 306 0555 W:manchester.ac.uk/libraryOne of the real gems of Manchester’s architectural history, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the John Rylands building was an elaborate church rather than a library. This fantastic Grade I-listed piece of Victorian high gothic has recently undergone a £16.8m refurbishment, creating a new state-of-the-art visitor centre to enhance access to its rare and fascinating collections.

ChinatownGeorgeSt,CharlotteStreetThe third largest Chinatown in the world outside China (just behind San Francisco and Vancouver). Have a browse through fascinating shops, supermarkets and Chinese bakeries – best day to visit is Sunday when the Northwest Chinese community descend en masse to shop and eat dim sum.

Wheel of ManchesterExchangeSquareM31BDW:worldtouristattractions.co.ukOK, so it might not be quite the size of the London Eye, but you still get a fabulous view over the city from this 60m-high big wheel.

The Quays W: thequays.org.uk Hop on one of Manchester’s distinctive trams for a trundle out to The Quays – just 15 minutes outside the city centre and you’re in a whole different landscape of big water, big skies and big buildings, including The Lowry and Imperial War Museum North.

THINGS TO DONorthern QuarterColloquially known as Manchester’s creative quarter due to its concentration of designers, artist and musicians, it may not be the ritziest part of the city centre but it’s certainly one of the most interesting. A stroll around the quirky streets will reward you with eclectic record shops, vintage and specialist clothes stores, bohemian bars and eateries. Also home to the Manchester Craft and Design Centre, the Manchester Buddhist Centre and the Manchester institution that is Afflecks. Definitely not mainstream.

Exchange SquareA shoppers’ haven with Harvey Nichols, Heals and Selfridges all within a stiletto’s totter of each other. There’s a number of handy eateries, such as Zinc Brasserie and Manchester’s favourite noodle bar, Tampopo, plus the quirky Future Systems’ design of Selfridges’ food hall houses a variety of differently-themed food counters to perch at for a chilled glass of wine and a mid-retail therapy bite-to-eat.

Chill FactoreTraffordWay,TraffordQuaysM417JA T: 0161 749 2222 W:chillfactore.comThe UK’s first complete Alpine ski village looks like it landed from outer space on the edge of the M60. You can ski, board, tube or just have a snowball fight at the country’s longest real snow indoor ski slope, followed by the full-on après-ski experience in a myriad of bars and restaurants.

Guided walksT: 0871 222 8223Discover the city’s secret corners with a range of guided walks that take you everywhere from up the Town Hall bell tower to down below the city streets tracing the history of the Rochdale canal. There are topic-driven options too, including a tour devoted to Mancunian inventions and one to the history of the city’s radical politics.

THINGS TO BUYOld and obscure vinyl, vintage clothing, Manchester United memorabilia, designer labels.

GIVE IT A WHIRL…Afflecks52ChurchStreetM41PWT: 0161 834 2039Marked by the fabulous Tom Judd illustrations outside, this otherwise unprepossessing building houses a rabbit warren of alternative shops and stalls, selling everything from skateboards and fetish gear to vintage clothing and records.

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THE CULTURE LIST: Manchester

ART GALLERIESManchester Art GalleryMosleyStreetM23JL T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.orgEngland’s Northwest’s Large Attraction of the Year 2008 shows off the wealth of Manchester’s artistic legacy, including its famous collection of Pre-Raphaelites and a great collection of modern pieces. A new sculpture by Antony Gormley adorns the light filled atrium.

The LowryPier8,SalfordQuaysM503AZT: 0870 787 5780 W: thelowry.comA high-impact, landmark building that is perfectly set against the vast water and sky background of The Quays at Salford. The Lowry is a whole day out in itself – you get art galleries, two theatres, a gift shop and several restaurants, not to mention the tram ride out there.

Whitworth Art Gallery TheUniversityofManchester,OxfordRoadM156ERT: 0161 275 7450 W:whitworth.manchester.ac.ukGreat collection of art and design, from watercolours, prints, drawings, modern art and sculpture, including the largest collections of decorative textiles and wallpapers outside London.

Chinese Arts CentreMarketBuildings,ThomasStM41EUT: 0161 832 7271 W:chinese-arts-centre.orgThis national showcase for Oriental culture is a great place to catch exhibitions by Chinese artists. The centre’s chilled-out tea shop also provides a little haven of peace and tranquillity in the creative hubbub of the surrounding Northern Quarter.

Cornerhouse70OxfordStreetM15NHT: 0161 200 1500 W: cornerhouse.orgThe best place in the city for contemporary art, sculpture and photography, the Cornerhouse also houses a three-screen arthouse cinema, a fine bar and a welcoming, easy-going café.

UrbisCathedralGardensM43BGT: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.ukThis flagship Manchester building sits imposingly in the lovely Cathedral Gardens like a rearing, glass-skinned serpent. Gallery-cum-exhibition centre-cum-arts venue, Urbis is described as ‘the city centre’, reflecting its focus on different aspects of urban culture from around the world.

MUSEUMSMOSI (Museum of Science and Industry) LiverpoolRoad,CastlefieldM34FPT: 0161 832 2244 W:mosi.org.ukAs you would expect in the city that kick started the Industrial Revolution, this museum is full of fascinating insights into England’s industrial history and also boasts a great collection of planes, trains, cars and steam engines. A planned £60m refurb, called Revolution Manchester, will see both spaces and exhibits enhanced and updated over the next few years.

Imperial War Museum NorthTheQuays,TraffordM171TZT: 0161 836 4000 W:iwm.org.uk/northThe UK’s first building by Daniel Libeskind, IWM North is a real attention-grabber – more like architecture as environmental sculpture. Located on the opposite bank of The Quays to The Lowry, this is another building that uses its waterscape backdrop to sensational effect. On the inside, its thought-provoking exhibitions have won it a prestigious national silver award in the Enjoy England tourism awards 2007.

Manchester MuseumOxfordRoadM139PLT: 0161 275 2634 W:manchester.ac.uk/museumPart of Manchester University, the museum covers all the ‘ologies’ from archaeology to zoology. The original building was the work of Alfred Waterhouse, architect of Manchester Town Hall, with the 2003 refurbishment undertaken by Ian Simpson, architect of Urbis and the new Beetham Tower.

THEATRESThe Royal ExchangeStAnn’sSquareM27DHT: 0161 833 9833 W:royalexchange.co.ukMake sure that the Royal Exchange is on your itinerary, if not for one of the consistently top-notch theatrical performances, then just to take in the jaw-dropping, dramatic interior that was once the trading floor of the city’s Cotton Exchange. Good craft shop too.

The Library TheatreStPeter’sSquareM25PDT: 0161 236 7110 W:librarytheatre.comThe handsome rotunda of Manchester’s Central Library houses a surprise in its basement – the oldest repertory theatre company in the UK. Focussing mainly on contemporary and sometimes provocative works, the theatre also attracts some interesting touring productions.

ContactOxfordRoadM156JAT: 0161 274 0604 W:contact-theatre.orgRemodelled in 1999, this architecturally madcap building looks almost Gaudi-esque. With a stated mission of catering for the 13–30 age group, the theatrical product veers towards the cutting edge and contemporary, with regular club nights and laid-back DJs.

Greenroom54–56WhitworthStreetM15WWT: 0161 615 0515 W:greenroomarts.orgThis hip, experimental performance space is tucked away underneath the railway arches. Consistently avant-garde productions and another good spot for café bar lounging, with regular DJs in the foyer space.

Palace TheatreOxfordRoadM16FTT: 0161 245 6600 W:livenation.co.ukThe major venue in Manchester for touring West End productions, this is a classic example of the grand temples to variety that were built in the Victorian era – all gilded statues and red plush seating.

Opera HouseQuayStreetM33HPT: 0161 828 1700 W:livenation.co.ukSlightly smaller sister venue to the Palace, this is another traditional theatre venue, veering more towards opera, ballet and one-off comedy or musical shows.

The LowryPier8,SalfordQuaysM503AZT: 0870 787 5780 W:thelowry.comThe Lowry’s two performing spaces provide a strong mix of music, ballet, opera, theatre and comedy.

MUSIC VENUESMEN ArenaVictoriaStationM31ART: 0871 226 5000 W:men-arena.comThe largest indoor arena in Europe, this is the place to catch the Kylies and Justins of this world on their latest blockbusting tour.

Manchester ApolloStockportRd,ArdwickGreenM126APT: 0161 273 6921 W:livenation.co.ukThis big old converted cinema is the venue for those comedy and music gigs that are too big for the Academy and not yet big enough for the MEN Arena.

The Bridgewater HallLowerMosleyStreet,PetersfieldM23WST: 0161 907 9000 W:bridgewater-hall.co.ukOpened in 1996, the Hall is one of Europe’s best venues for classical music and home to not one but three orchestras: the Hallé (Britain’s oldest professional symphony orchestra), the BBC Philharmonic and the Manchester Camerata. Also good for top-notch visiting international orchestras and soloists, plus a complementary programme of non-classical, jazz and world music artists.

Royal Northern College of Music124OxfordRdM139RD T: 0161 907 5377 W:rncm.ac.ukThis first-rate musical conservatoire is the place to catch the classical stars of the future, as well as an eclectic mix of classical and contemporary artists.

Academy 1,2 & 3OxfordRoadM139PR T: 0161 275 2930 W:manchesteracademy.netThe three spaces at this University-based venue provide a sliding scale of size to suit wherever a band currently sits on the path from anonymity to fame, or vice versa.

Roadhouse8NewtonStreetM12ANT: 0161 237 9789 W:theroadhouselive.co.ukOne of Manchester’s great survivors, this intimate basement venue has been around since Oasis and The Verve were doing their first gigs. A standard stop on any up-and-coming, NME-rated band’s touring itinerary.

Matt & Phred’s64TibStreetM41LWT: 0161 831 7002 W:mattandphreds.comRonnie Scott’s in miniature, this atmospheric Northern Quarter institution is where you can hear jazz of the highest order on most nights well into the early hours.

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After its year in the artistic spotlight as European Capital of Culture, Liverpool has entered 2009 with a renewed sense of optimism and self-confidence. A swathe of new hotels, a major new shopping area, a new arena and convention centre — 2008’s frenzy of regeneration and artistic activity has resulted in both a rejuvenated city centre and a permanent uplift in Liverpool’s cultural aspirations.

Architecturally, Liverpool is a city of statement and grandeur — it boasts more Georgian terraces than Bath and the imposing Victorian warehouses of the city centre are finding new life as boutique hotels and fine restaurants.

On top of that, the city centre is surprisingly compact and easy to get around, and you’d need a heart of stone not to be enchanted by its willfully irreverent wit and bowled over by the warmth of the Liverpudlian welcome.

GETTING HEREBy planeLiverpool’s John Lennon Airport is situated just eight miles south of the city centre, with flights to and from many major European cities and an express bus operating to take you into the city centre.

By train Mainline intercity services run into Liverpool Lime Street station from all over the country.

By roadTake the westbound M62 off the M6 motorway and it takes you straight into Liverpool city centre. It is also an umbilical cord joining Liverpool to Manchester, only 35 miles away.

GET THE INFO…Tourist Information Centres Liverpool Visitor Centre WhitechapelL16DZAlbert Dock Tourist Information Centre AnchorCourtyardL34AFLiverpool John Lennon Airport Tourist Information Centre ArrivalHallSouthTerminalL241YD Visitor information:T: 0151 233 2008 W:visitliverpool.comAccommodation enquiries:T: 0844 870 0123 W:visitliverpool.com

PLACES TO STAYHope Street Hotel 40HopeStL19DAT: 0151 709 3000 W:hopestreethotel.co.ukHope Street is a bit of a cultural hub – this elegant Georgian thoroughfare joins the city’s two cathedrals and along its length you’ll find a concert hall (the Philharmonic), a theatre (the Everyman) and a slew of bars and eateries. The hotel sits half way along it, a building dating from the 1860s that was converted into ‘Liverpool’s first boutique hotel’ in 2001. In the intervening time it has won numerous awards for its cool minimalist chic, impeccable service and classy ambience and was voted one of the 50 coolest hotels in the world in 2006 by Condé Nast Traveller.

Hard Day’s Night Hotel CentralBuildings,41NorthJohnStreetL26RRT: 0151 236 1964 W:harddaysnighthotel.comNo prizes for guessing the inspiration behind this new four-star hotel just along the way from the Cavern Club. A refurb of a classic city centre Grade II-listed building, the hotel has an on-site restaurant, bar and art gallery, all featuring specially commissioned artworks celebrating the lives of the Fab Four. There’s even an all-white Lennon Suite complete with white piano if you fancy a weekend bed-in.

Radisson SAS Liverpool 107OldHallStL39BDT: 0151 966 1500 W:radisson.comThe Scandinavian owned Radisson SAS is an ocean liner of a building looking out over the Mersey. It’s very Scandinavian in feel as well – cool design on the inside and a light-filled atrium doubling as a bit of an art gallery.

Racquet Club HargreavesBuilding,5ChapelStreetL39AGT: 0151 236 6676 W:racquetclub.org.ukA club devoted to racquet sports may not be the first place that springs to mind as a place to stay, but the eight individually-styled rooms in this refurbished Victorian gentleman’s club are generous and comfortable. The on-site Ziba restaurant is also an eating destination in its own right.

62 Castle Street 62CastleStL27LQT: 0151 702 7898 W:62castlest.comAnother revamped Victorian edifice in the heart of Liverpool’s city centre, this bijou boutique hotel is well-located for both the business district and the famous Liverpool nightlife. Its 20 generously-sized suites are equipped with all mod-cons, and the ground floor houses Room restaurant and bar.

Malmaison Liverpool 7WilliamJessopWay,PrincesDockL31QZT: 0151 229 5000 W:malmaison-liverpool.comOverlooking the Mersey, this recently-opened new kid in the Malmaison stable is the company’s first purpose-built building. It’s an elegant addition to the city’s iconic waterfront architecture and has all the features you would expect, from the plush ambience of the interior and the ‘place to be seen in’ bar and brasserie.

PLACES TO EAT Alma de CubaStPetersChurch,SeelStreetL14BHT: 0151 702 7394 W:alma-de-cuba.comThe place to be seen for the style-conscious, this Cuban/Miami/carnival inspired bar and restaurant serves up crafted cocktails and elegant eats in one of the city’s oldest churches, with many of the original features incorporated into the new design.

60 Hope Street60HopeStL19BZT: 0151 707 6060 W: 60hopestreet.comEstablished gastronomic destination on the Hope Street cultural corridor set over three floors of an old Georgian townhouse. Famed for its seafood and its signature dessert of deep fried jam sandwich with Carnation milk ice cream. There’s also a more informal café/bar bistro in the basement.

Simply HeathcotesBeethamPlaza,TheStrandL20XJT: 0151 236 3536 W:heathcotes.co.ukThis sophisticated modern eatery is the Liverpool link in the culinary empire of renowned Lancashire chef, Paul Heathcote, the man who made black pudding sexy.

The London Carriage Works40HopeStL19DAT: 0151 705 2222 W:tlcw.co.ukPart of the uber-chic Hope Street Hotel, the restaurant has attracted rave reviews, including being voted one of the top ten restaurants outside London in the 2005 Harden’s Guide and the 2007 Taste of England Northwest award. Apparently named when construction workers discovered the original sign in the stonework above the entrance during the refurbishment.

Everyman Bistro5–9HopeStreetL19BHT: 0151 708 9545 W:everyman.co.ukA bit of a Liverpool institution, the basement bistro beneath the Everyman Theatre has always been a gathering place for local creative types, attracted to the slightly bohemian ambience and the hearty portions of the fabulous home-made food. It’s great for veggies and the puddings are a special treat.

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The Monro92DukeStreetL15AGT: 0151 707 9933 W:themonro.comNamed after a Georgian trading ship, this old man’s boozer has been transformed into a top-notch gastropub, with an emphasis on quality organic British food. Robust menu featuring rabbit pie, Cheshire wild boar, Lancashire ostrich and Welsh buffalo.

ZibaRacquetClub,5ChapelStreetL39AGT: 0151 236 6676 W:racquetclub.org.ukNumerous awards and a place in the Good Food guide are just some of the things that Ziba has going for it. Named after a Liverpool tea clipper, this classy modern British restaurant in the Racquet Club has quietly established a great reputation for its nosh.

The Quarter 7FalknerStreetL87PUT: 0151 707 1965 Relaxed Italian-style bistro-cum cafe, just round the corner from the Liverpool Phil. Pavement tables look out across the well-filmed Georgian cobbles of Faulkner Street, which has featured as a film set in many a BBC period drama. The menu covers everything from laid-back lunches to coffee, cake and Sunday brunch – apparently even Yoko Ono stopped by for pizza on her last visit to the city.

Delifonseca 12StanleyStreetL16AFT: 0151 255 0808 W:delifonseca.co.ukA little hidden gem – a foodie cornucopia in the city centre that is the place to go if you have a serious cheese fetish. The restaurant is worth a visit too – the chef is ex-London Carriage Works so expect good things.

HoSt 31HopeStreet,LiverpoolL19HXT: 0151 708 5831 W: ho-st.co.ukAsian fusion food comes to Liverpool in the very cool guise of this funky new restaurant from the people behind 60 Hope Street. Contemporary design, trendy lighting and a mean duck gyoza are all good reasons to check it out.

Roses Tea Rooms23MilnerRd,Heswall,WirralCH605RTT: 0151 342 9912 W:rosestearooms.co.ukSome people will travel miles for a good cream tea, and a trip over the river to Heswall is well worth it to visit this award-winning gem of a cafe whose exquisite sandwiches and scones are said to rival the Ritz’s.

PLACES TO DRINK BabycreamAtlanticPavilion,AlbertDockL34AET: 0151 709 7097 W:babycream.co.ukJoint venture between restaurant group Lyceum and the legendary Cream club empire, this is described as a DJ restaurant – i.e. you get ambient lounge live DJ sets thrown in with your trendy bar and dining experience.

PanAmBritanniaPavilionAlbertDockL34AET: 0151 702 5840 W:panam-venue.co.ukAt night the Albert Dock puts on its coolest threads and metamorphoses into the place for Liverpool’s glammed-up crowd. PanAm is one of the main hangouts for the hip and trendy, a classy bar-restaurant with huge bay windows that look out to the Liver Building in the distance.

The Blue Bar and GrillEdwardPavilionAlbertDockL34AET: 0151 702 5830 W:blue-venue.co.ukAnother achingly cool place to drink and dine down at Albert Dock, with a balcony overlooking the waterfront and a high celebrity count.

Korova39–41FleetStreetL14ART: 0151 709 7097 W:korova-liverpool.comTrendy, independent bar, part-owned by Liverpool band Ladytron, that sets itself out as ‘a music-focused venue enveloped in cutting edge design and illustration.’ There’s a bar and ‘canteen’ and the club in the basement showcases live music from established acts and up-and-coming bands.

The Philharmonic36HopeStreetL19BXT: 0151 707 2837Not the Hall, but the staggeringly ornate pub across the road, which boasts the only gentleman’s toilets in the country that a lady may visit – they’re listed. Despite being definitely olde-worlde, this temple to Victorian exuberance attracts a lively mixed crowd that gives an indication of the level of affection it commands – John Lennon famously complained that the price of fame meant ‘not being able to go to the Phil for a drink’.

Ye Crack 13RiceStreetL19BBT: 0151 709 4171For the antitheses of Albert Dock-style bar chic, head for this legendary boozer, yet another place where John Lennon used to drink when he was at art college. Full of Liverpool character, with a great range of beers.

THINGS TO SEESt George’s HallWilliamBrownStreetL11J JT: 0151 233 2008 W:visitliverpool.comA £23m restoration programme has given a superb facelift to what many consider to be the finest neo-classical building in Europe. St George’s certainly has buckets of presence, standing proudly at the centre of the city like a temple to Liverpool’s mid-19th century wealth and ambition. Inside, the massive Great Hall is resplendent with gilded plasterwork and ornate chandeliers, plus a renowned Minton tiled floor.

Three GracesPierHead,NorthofAlbertDockT: 0151 233 2008 W:visitliverpool.comTogether, the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building create one of the most recognisable waterfronts in the world. Officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Albert DockAlbertDockL34AFW:albertdock.comThis collection of restored Grade I-listed warehouses is home to many of Liverpool’s museum and heritage attractions, including Tate Liverpool, Merseyside Maritime Museum and the new Slavery Museum.

Turning the Place OverCrossKeysHouse,MoorfieldsW:biennial.comCommissioned by Liverpool Biennial in 2007, this remarkable sculpture by artist Richard Wilson consists of an 8m diameter section cut from the facade of a city centre building that rotates in three dimensions. Check it out on You Tube where videos of the piece in motion have received over 750,000 hits.

Liverpool Metropolitan CathedralCathedralHouse,MountPleasantL35TQT: 0151 709 9222 W: liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.ukIrreverently known as Paddy’s Wigwam by locals, the relatively modern (1967) Metropolitan Cathedral stands at one end of the aptly-named Hope Street that connects it with its Anglican counterpart.

Liverpool Cathedral6CathedralClose,StJamesMountL17AZT: 0151 709 6271 W: liverpoolcathedral.org.ukThere’s nothing small about Liverpool’s Anglican Cathedral. Largest cathedral in the UK, 5th largest in the world, highest gothic arches in the world, UK’s largest church organ – the list goes on.

Antony Gormley’s Another PlaceCrosbyBeach,CrosbyW: visitliverpool.comAntony Gormley’s series of 100 life-sized iron ‘men’ spread over 3km of sandy beach initially started off as a temporary installation. But, like the Angel of the North in Gateshead, the figures have taken on such iconic status on this beautifully windswept landscape that a fundraising campaign has successfully made them permanent. A great example of good public art at its most affecting.

Sefton Park Palm House SeftonParkL171APT: 0151 726 2415 W: palmhouse.org.ukThis Grade II-listed Victorian glasshouse is the centrepiece of one of the largest public parks in England. It’s open to the public so you can spend a relaxing afternoon wandering around the tropical greenery. Occasional jazz and lunchtime concerts too.

THINGS TO DOMersey FerriesT: 0151 330 1444 W: merseyferries.co.ukGerry and the Pacemakers have a lot to answer for. Take a trip across to look back at the famous waterfront from across the river and just see if you can stop yourself singing ‘that song’ – it’s practically impossible.

Knowsley Safari Park Prescot,MerseysideL344ANT: 0151 430 9009 W:knowsley.comSo what if you haven’t been to one since you were a kid? Having your windscreen wipers manhandled by monkeys is still as much fun as it always was…

Speke Hall Speke,MerseysideL241XDT: 0151 427 7231 W:nationaltrust.org.ukJust down the road from Liverpool’s John Lennon Airport, this wonderfully-preserved half-timbered house dates from the 15th century and is surrounded by beautiful gardens and woodland.

THINGS TO BUYEverton mints and Beatles memorabilia.

GIVE IT A WHIRL…The Yellow DuckmarineT: 0151 708 7799 W:theyellowduckmarine.co.ukTake an hour-long trip around Liverpool’s waterfront in this converted (and very yellow) WW2 amphibious landing vehicle which starts on the road and ends in the water.

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THE CULTURE LIST: Liverpool

ART GALLERIES Walker Art Gallery WilliamBrownStL38EL T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk The Walker sits at the heart of Liverpool’s central cultural quarter alongside the best of the city’s magnificent neo-classical architecture, St George’s Hall and World Museum Liverpool. Often referred to as ‘the National Gallery of the North,’ it is renowned for the breadth and depth of its collections, ranging from medieval and renaissance masterpieces to pieces by modern icons such as David Hockney and Gilbert and George.

Tate Liverpool AlbertDockL34BB T: 0151 702 7400 W:tate.org.uk/liverpool The Liverpool outpost of the Tate empire is housed in a wonderful conversion of Grade I-listed warehouses on the banks of the Mersey at Albert Dock. The UK’s largest modern art gallery outside London, it draws on the wide range of 20th and 21st century artwork from the Tate Collection and develops its own innovative changing exhibitions programme.

Open Eye Gallery 28–32WoodStreetL14AQ T: 0151 709 9460 W: openeye.org.uk Great contemporary photography gallery that’s worth a visit to catch the latest touring exhibition by prominent national and international lensmeisters.

View Two Gallery 23MathewStreetL26RE T: 0151 236 9444 W:viewtwogallery.co.uk Behind an unassuming doorway in the Cavern Quarter you’ll find Liverpool’s leading independent gallery – a positive Aladdin’s cave of contemporary art spread over three floors. It’s only open from noon on Thursdays through to Saturday, but call in on a Saturday afternoon and you’ll get a complimentary glass of wine.

FACT FoundationForArt&CreativeTechnology 88WoodStreetL14DQ T: 0151 707 4444 W: fact.co.uk Billed as ‘an international arts centre for the digital age’, FACT is an award-winning cultural project that is dedicated to showcasing the work of international artists working in film, video and new media. The venue is the hub of the Rope Walks area of the city centre, home to music studios, design collectives and architects studios by day, and to interesting clubs and bars by night.

The Bluecoat SchoolLaneL13BX T: 0151 709 5297 W: thebluecoat.org.uk This Grade I-listed old schoolhouse, thought to be the oldest building in Liverpool city centre, has been a focus for contemporary arts, crafts and design in the city since the 1960s. A £12.5m transformation led by the hip Dutch practise BIQ Architecten, has restored the building to its former glory, with the addition of a spanking new art gallery and performance space.

Lady Lever Art Gallery LowerRd,PortSunlightVillage,WirralCH625EQ T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk The Lever Brothers soap magnate, William Hesketh Lever, did a lot for this part of the world. Not only did he build the delightful garden village of Port Sunlight (named after his famous soap) but he also created within it the beautiful Lady Lever Art Gallery to house his extensive collection of art, including a magnificent selection of 18th and 19th century paintings. Worth crossing the Mersey for.

Victoria Gallery & Museum AshtonStreet,LiverpoolL693DR T: 0151 794 2348 W: liv.ac.uk/vgm This newly-opened gallery devoted to the decorative arts is located in a magnificent Victorian building just behind the Metropolitan Cathedral. Part of Liverpool University and the northern outpost of the V&A, its fine cafe makes an ideal afternoon tea location.

MUSEUMS Merseyside Maritime Museum AlbertDockL34AQ T: 0151 478 4499 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk Fascinating museum devoted to the history of shipping in Britain from the 13th century onwards. The story of the port of Liverpool plays a large part in the exhibits, and the moving section on the history of the slave trade has proved so popular that a new museum devoted to the slavery story has now opened.

World Museum Liverpool WilliamBrownStreetL38EN T: 0151 478 4393 W:liverpoolmuseums.org.uk A £35m refurbishment in 2005 almost doubled the size of what was formerly the Liverpool Museum, giving it a substantial facelift and allowing it to display a whole treasure trove of previously locked away artefacts from its collections.

Mr Chambre Hardman’s Photographic Studio 59RodneyStreetL19EX T: 0151 709 6261 W:nationaltrust.org.uk This loving preservation of the Georgian terraced house of the acclaimed Liverpool photographer Edward Chambre Hardman is a unique time capsule of Liverpool life in the mid-20th century and features an evocative and moving collection of his work.

THEATRES Liverpool Playhouse WilliamsonSquareL11EL T: 0151 709 4776 W:everymanplayhouse.com Housed in a 19th century music hall building, this 700-seat theatre has one of the UK’s oldest repertory theatre companies. Produces three or four of its own shows per year, interspersed with good quality touring product.

Everyman Theatre 13HopeStreetL19BH T: 0151 709 4776 W:everymanplayhouse.com This small but consistently innovative theatre is where every Liverpool actor and writer you can think of – from Julie Walters to Willy Russell – cut their creative teeth. Recently celebrated its 40th birthday.

Unity Theatre Hope Place L1 9BG T: 0151 709 4988 W:unitytheatreliverpool.co.uk Tucked away off Hope Street, this lively small-scale venue is one of the country’s most successful ‘fringe’ theatres, with a reputation for encouraging new writing and new performers, particularly through community involvement.

Liverpool Empire LimeStreetL11JE T: 0870 606 3536 W:liverpoolempire.org.uk The largest two-tier theatre in the country, this is the place for the major touring musicals and shows.

Royal Court Theatre RoeStreetL11HL T: 0870 787 1866 W: royalcourtliverpool.com Previously known as a music venue, the Royal Court has had a new lease of life as the home of the Rawhide comedy club. Gone is the tiered seating of the stalls and in its place are cabaret-style tables to make the waitress service easier and a packed programme of local and national comedians.

MUSIC VENUES Liverpool Philharmonic Hall HopeStreetL19BP T: 0151 709 3789 W:liverpoolphil.com The 1930s Philharmonic Hall may look like an old cinema from the outside but inside it’s a riot of superb art deco flourishes, from the beautiful window etchings in the bar to the frescoes of mythological muses on the auditorium walls. Home to a resurgent Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra, whose conductor Vasily Petrenko is so on-side he even plays for the orchestra football team.

Cavern Club 8–10MathewStreetL26RE T: 0151 236 1965 W:cavernclub.org Infamous as the first home of the Fab Four, this is probably the most well-known club in the world. It has remained faithful to the original Merseybeat décor and is obviously a huge draw to the Beatles tourist crowds.

Liverpool Academy 11–13HothamStreetL35UF T: 0151 707 3200 W:liverpool-academy.co.uk Formerly known as The Lomax, this 19th century warehouse building is steeped in musical history and the place to see rock legends, indie all-stars and cutting edge dance and urban acts.

Echo Arena Liverpool 1MonarchsQuayL34BX T: 0844 8000 400 W:accliverpool.co.uk Shiny new state-of-the-art concert venue at King’s Dock by the side of the Mersey. Now the main venue in town for big name concerts, comedy and sports events, its just the right size for an arena – big enough to generate the right concert atmosphere but not so big that you need binoculars to see the stars performing.

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THE CULTURE LIST: Blackpool & Lancashire

MUSEUMS & GALLERIESThe National Football MuseumSirTomFinneyWay,PrestonPR16PAT: 01772 908442 W:nationalfootballmuseum.comWhy Preston, you may say? Believe it or not, Lancashire is the birthplace of professional football and Preston North End is one of the country’s oldest professional football clubs with an illustrious history going back to 1880. Building a museum to celebrate this history was an initial idea that then blossomed into a fascinating and illuminating journey through the history of the game. Considered to have the finest archive of historic football memorabilia in the world, including the prestigious FIFA collection.

Harris Museum and Art GalleryMarketSquare,PrestonPR12PPT: 01772 258248 W: harrismuseum.org.ukAs well as a great gallery and museum, the Harris is also worth a visit for the building itself, a splendid Grade I-listed temple to Victorian civic pride. Inside you’ll find a surprisingly good selection of artworks acquired by the wealthy cotton barons of the day, plus, as you would expect, a fine selection of decorative arts.

THEATRES & VENUESThe Grand Theatre33ChurchStreet,BlackpoolFY11HTT: 01253 290190 W:blackpoolgrand.co.ukGrand by name and grand by nature, this is a riot of plush velvet, gilt and chandeliers, all restored to its original Victorian splendour. Officially Britain’s National Theatre of Variety, it is the place to catch touring shows, including comedy, opera, and musicals.

Dukes Theatre & CinemaMoorLane,LancasterLA11QET: 0845 344 0642 W:dukes-lancaster.orgArts venue that covers a lot of bases from theatre, comedy and music performances to cinema screenings and a small gallery.

THINGS TO SEEThe Great Promenade ShowNewSouthPromenade,BlackpoolFY41RWT: 01253 476520 W: thegreatpromenadeshow.co.ukStretching along Blackpool’s South Prom is a unique collection of wonderful modern sculptures. Ranging from the astonishing tide organ, whose haunting tunes are created by the action of the waves, to the world’s largest mirror ball, which pays homage to the town’s status as ballroom capital of the world. Guaranteed to make you smile.

Clitheroe Castle Museum CastleHill,ClitheroeBB71BAT: 01200 424568 W: lancsmuseums.gov.ukRe-opening at the end of May after a major refurbishment, the museum is housed in Clitheroe’s picturesque castle, which comes complete with 18 acres of lovely formal gardens, a Castle Keep dating back to 1186, and a spanking new cafe in the museum’s contemporary glass extension.

PanopticonsBlackburn,Burnley,PendleandRossendaleW:panopticons.uk.netLooking around the hills of East Lancashire you’d be forgiven for thinking that the aliens have landed, with a remarkable set of art works set on imposing viewpoints that are visible for miles around. Atom in Pendle is a bronze, egg-shaped sculpture and viewing shelter whilst in Burnley there’s an eerily evocative Singing Ringing Tree that produces a tuneful song in the wind. In Blackburn Colourfields is a multi-coloured turreted viewing platform and the 18m diameter Halo in Rossendale lights up at night and looks like a close encounter of the third kind. Places to contemplate the meaning of life.

Lying between Manchester and the Lake District, Lancashire is blessed with a wide range of environments, from its cheeky seaside resorts to the rolling countryside that boasts more than its fair share of Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

It’s also been steadily developing a reputation as one of the North of England’s best foodie locations. From Goosnargh duck to Lancashire cheese, local produce is inspiring a new generation of restauranteurs and retailers, many of whom can be found on the Ribble Valley Food Trail, which takes in the picturesque towns of Clitheroe, Longridge and a number of villages in the lush Forest of Bowland. Visit www.ribblevalleyfoodtrail.com for more information.

GETTING HEREBy roadThe M6 motorway runs through central Lancashire making it easily accessible from all parts of the UK. Junctions with the M65 and M55 take you off into the east and west of the county respectively.

By trainThe west coast mainline from London to Glasgow stops at Preston and Lancaster. Change at Preston for connections to other parts of Lancashire, including trains to Blackpool and the coast.

By busGood bus services throughout Lancashire – check with National Express (0870 580 8080) for routes and timetables and with Traveline (0871 200 2233) for local bus services.

GET THE INFO…W: visitlancashire.comandtastelancashire.com

PLACES TO STAYThe Ashton Lancaster WyresdaleRoad,LancasterLA13JJT: 01524 68460 W:theashtonlancaster.comIn a great location just off the M6, the Ashton is equally handy for visiting the South Lakes and the Forest of Bowland. But it’s the decor of this handsome Georgian house that’s the main draw, with dramatic colours, luxurious fabrics and bathrooms to die for. Awarded 5 stars and a Visit Britain gold award within five months of opening, which must be a record.

The Inn at Whitewell INN

DunsopRoad,Whitewell,NrClitheroeBB73ATT: 01200 448222 W:innatwhitewell.comWonderfully atmospheric, rambling old coaching inn dating back to the 1300s, complete with authentic creaking floorboards and the odd stuffed fox. Outside is the beautiful Forest of Bowland, while inside there are roaring fires, a great restaurant and fantastic breakfasts (good black pudding of course). Has a fab wine merchants on site too.

Number One South Beach GH

4HarrowsideWest,BlackpoolFY41NWT: 01253 343900 W:numberoneblackpool.comBlackpool is leading the way in the UK’s reinvention of traditional B&Bs, bringing a boutique-hotel approach to both style and service standards. This new offering from the multi-award winning owners of Number One St Lukes (also in Blackpool) offers superb quality and comfort along with great views of the newly-revamped South Promenade.

The Midland Hotel MarineRoadWest,MorecambeLA44BUT: 01524 424000 W:midlandmorecambe.co.ukA classic piece of 1930s architecture that has been recently restored into an Art Deco-inspired tour-de-force, undoubtedly helping Morecambe to be recently voted best reinvented seaside town by Coast magazine. This little bit of Miami’s South Beach on the Lancashire coast has 30’s inspired rooms and enough spa treatments to pamper the most demanding diva.

Stanley House Mellor,NrBlackburnBB27NPT: 01254 769200 W: stanleyhouse.co.ukSmall, boutique hotel which manages to combine a real out-in-the-countryside feel while being just minutes away from the M6 and M65. The quality and attention to detail that have gone into Stanley House started attracting awards almost from the day it opened, culminating recently in the 2007 Enjoy England tourism awards when it came top in the small hotel category.

PLACES TO EAT AND DRINKNorthcote NorthcoteRoad,Langho,BlackburnBB68BET: 01254 240555 W:northcote.comNorthcote is set in an old manor house set in lush countryside on the edge of the Ribble Valley and, at about an hour’s drive from Manchester or Liverpool, it’s a destination for serious foodies. Award-winning chef Nigel Haworth takes a creative approach to regional specialities (Lancashire cheese ice cream anyone?) and the great wine list means that it’s best to book in overnight in one of the well-appointed rooms.

Thyme & Thyme @ The Sirloin1–3InglewhiteRoad,LongridgePR32RW T: 01772 786888 W:thyme-restaurant.co.uk StationRoad,Hoghton,PrestonPR50DD T: 087171 44245Embryonic Lancashire foodie empire with two outlets in the Ribble Valley. The first is a bright and busy brasserie serving Lancashire food with ethnic influences, whilst the second is situated on the first floor of a centuries-old village coaching inn and recently won the Hi-Life Diners Club 2009 restaurant of the year for Lancashire.

GIVE IT A WHIRL…InfusionPleasure Beach, 525 Ocean Boulevard, BlackpoolFY41EZT: 0870 444 5566 W:blackpoolpleasurebeach.comFor those with nerves (and stomachs) of steel, this gigantic rollercoaster is a series of twisted loops completely suspended over water.

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THE CULTURE LIST: Chester & Cheshire

THEATRES & VENUESClonter Opera TheatreSwettenhamHeath,CongletonCW122LRT: 01260 224514 W:clonteropera.comCheshire’s equivalent of Glyndebourne is this 400-seat opera venue in a gorgeous woodland setting.

Alexander’s Jazz CafeRufusCourt,ChesterCH12JWT: 01244 340005 W:alexandersjazz.com Continental-style cafe bar by day and venue for jazz, blues and comedy by night. Reportedly the longest-running comedy club outside London.

Pyramid & Parr HallCulturalQuarter,WarringtonWA11BLT: 01925 442345 W:pyramidparrhall.co.ukTwin arts venue hosting touring shows of music, drama and comedy.

MUSEUMS & HERITAGE Norton Priory Museum & GardensTudorRoad,ManorPark,Runcorn, CheshireWA71SXT: 01928 569895 W:nortonpriory.orgA medieval priory established in 1134 is the basis for an award-winning museum, plus a fabulous walled garden.

Quarry Bank MillStyal,Wilmslow,CheshireSK94LAT: 01625 445896 W:quarrybankmill.org.ukIf industrial heritage is your bag, this is a real treasure trove – a restored industrial community in the Cheshire countryside complete with working water mill.

Chester Cathedral12AbbeySquare,ChesterCH12HUT: 01244 324756 W:chestercathedral.comThis Grade I-listed building dates back to the 16th century and with its many modifications over the years it is almost like a living text book on medieval architecture. The interior is impressive and the surrounding gardens and monastic cloisters are an oasis of calm in the bustle of Chester city centre.

Jodrell Bank Visitor CentreHolmesChapelSK119DLT: 01477 571339 W:jb.man.ac.uk/viscenThe world-famous Lovell Radio Telescope is a prominent feature of the Cheshire landscape. You can get up close to the telescope itself and there’s also an arboretum and environmental discovery centre.

GARDENS OF DISTINCTION

Tatton Park KnutsfordWA166QN T: 01625 534400 W: tattonpark.org.uk Thought to be England’s most complete historic estate, Tatton has a fine Georgian mansion full of art treasures and original furnishings, but it is the glorious 1,000 acres of parkland, with lakes and a herd of deer, that most people come to see.

Arley Hall and GardensNorthwichCW96NAT: 01565 777353 W: arleyhallandgardens.comThe Hall at Arley is very charming but it’s the gardens that draw the crowds, with Arley cited in the top 10 gardens to visit in the UK.

Lyme Park Disley,StockportSK122NX T: 01663 762023 W: nationaltrust.org.uk Gorgeous country house and grounds that will be familiar to many as the setting for Colin Firth’s famous wet T-shirt moment in the BBC’s Pride and Prejudice series.

Dunham Massey Altrincham,CheshireWA144SJ T: 0161 941 1025 W: nationaltrust.org.uk Elegant Georgian mansion whose lovely grounds are home to an ancient herd of fallow deer. Renowned for its cream teas.

Ness Gardens NestonRoad,Ness,Neston,CheshireCH644AY T: 0151 353 0123 W: nationaltrust.org.uk Superb botanic gardens overlooking the Dee Estuary. Winner of the Large Attraction of the Year award in Cheshire’s 2008 tourism awards.

Further gardens at www.cheshiresgardens.com

Chester wears its rich Roman heritage with pride — as you would expect in a city founded by the Romans in AD70. But Chester also has definite contemporary charms, from the slew of chic new restaurants and boutiques to the tree-lined banks of the River Dee.

Outside the city centre, you’ll find some glorious countryside, great country pubs and a wealth of stately homes and gardens to visit, ranging from mansions full of art treasures to horticultural heaven in some of the Northwest’s most visited grounds and parklands.

GETTING HEREBy roadCheshire is easily accessible from the main north-south M6 motorway via the M56. Manchester is just over an hour away from Chester by road and from Liverpool is just 30 minutes away via the Mersey tunnel.

By trainDirect rail links from London, Manchester and Liverpool. Change at Crewe for other mainline connections.

By busChester is well served by National Express (0870 580 8080) from all parts of the country.

GET THE INFO…Chester Tourist Information CentreTownHall,NorthgateStreet,ChesterCH12HJT: 01244 402111 W:visitcheshire.com

PLACES TO STAYChester Grosvenor & Spa Eastgate,ChesterCH11LTT: 01244 324024 W:chestergrosvenor.comFrom its Grade II-listed, black and white timbered, exterior you may be expecting a cacophony of chintz, but inside it’s all muted contemporary tones and understated elegance, plus the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the city. Voted Large Hotel of the Year in the 2007 Enjoy England awards.

The Green Bough Hotel 60HooleRoad,ChesterCH23NLT: 01244 326241 W:chestergreenbough.comTrailing a whole raft of awards behind it, including Best Small Hotel in England, Green Bough is a quietly stylish boutique hotel a few minutes walk from the city centre.

The White House Manor NewRoad,PrestburySK104HPT: 01625 829376 W:thewhitehouse.uk.comThis restored Georgian townhouse in the leafy Cheshire suburbs was voted the Northwest Small Hotel of the Year in 2008. Tastefully-designed, individually-themed rooms and a first-class restaurant are just some of the reasons why.

PLACES TO EAT & DRINKOddfellows20LowerBridgeStreet,ChesterCH11RST: 01244 689809 W: oddfellows.bizGrand 17th century Georgian manor house that has been transformed into a sumptuous venue for fine dining and drinking. There’s a wonderful walled garden, a swanky Champagne Bar and a rather glamorous and grown-up Tea Rooms, plus four boutique rooms if you fancy staying over.

Cheshire SmokehouseVostFarm,MorleyGreen,WilmslowSK95NUT: 01625 548499 W:cheshiresmokehouse.co.ukNationally-famous farm shop with a bijou winery, an artisan bakers and a fabulous café creating a complete gastronomic destination in the heart of the Cheshire countryside.

THINGS TO SEEThe RowsEastgate,ChesterEffectively double decker shops, these black and white timbered buildings date from the middle ages. There’s nothing medieval about the merchandise though – the Rows are now packed with contemporary boutiques to taunt your plastic.

Beeston CastleChapelLane,Beeston,CheshireCW69TX T: 01829 260464 W: visitcheshire.com Medieval fortress set on a rock outcrop that dates back to the Crusades. Worth a visit for the superb views over the Cheshire plain.

THINGS TO DOChester ZooUpton-by-ChesterCH21LHT: 01244 380280 W: chesterzoo.orgYou’re never too old for a good zoo, and Chester is one of the best.

ChesterboatT: 01244 325394Go boating on the river Dee, cruising through Chester and the surrounding countryside.

THINGS TO BUYClassy fashions, antiques and smoked nuts.

GIVE IT A WHIRL…Chester Ghost ToursT: 01244 402111 W: visitchester.comDiscover your inner Derek Acorah with a trip round what many consider Britain’s ‘most haunted’ city. The Chester Ghosthunter Trail is a night-time guided walk around the city’s spooky and scary places, with tales of eerie goings-on across the centuries.

JF Polo AcademyNortonsLane,GreatBarrow,CheshireCH37JZT: 01928 740869 W: jfpoloacademy.comGo swinging with the Cheshire set and discover whether you’re a natural at one of the world’s most glamorous sports with a two hour introductory lesson.

THE ESSENTIALS: Chester & Cheshire

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Take it from the mouth of the man himself — Wordsworth said that there was “nowhere in so narrow a compass with such a variety of the sublime and beautiful”. With beautiful lakes, changing coastline and 100 peaks over 2,000 feet high all within a 30-mile stretch, this is the perfect place to go wandering ‘lonely as a cloud’.

But Cumbria is no longer just the territory of the kagoule-clad rambler or the crag-hopping adrenaline junkie. With Michelin-starred restaurants, seriously indulgent spa hotels and even the traditional B&Bs and self-catering cottages undergoing something of a boutique reinvention, the Lakes is also a place where you can enjoy a little luxury and sophistication.

You can even get your culture fix, with Lakes Alive, a summer-long programme of outdoor arts events. Visit www.lakesalive.org for more information.

GETTING HEREBy roadYou can reach the southern Lakes by car from either Liverpool or Manchester in little over an hour. All parts of Lakeland are easily accessible from the M6 motorway, which runs north to south just to the eastern side of Cumbria.

By trainThe west coast mainline from London to Glasgow stops at Oxenholme (change for Kendal and Windermere), Penrith and Carlisle.There are also regular direct trains between Manchester Airport and Windermere and between Manchester Airport and Barrow-in-Furness and the Western Lake District.

By busWindermere and Keswick are well served by National Express (0870 580 8080) coaches from all parts of the country.

GET THE INFO…W: golakes.co.uk/cultureT: 01539 822222

PLACES TO STAYStone Cottage GroveBarn,Hartsop,PatterdaleCA110NZT: 017684 82647 W: lakelandstonecottage.co.ukFancy staying in a self-catering cottage but can’t stand chintz? Then Stone Cottage is for you – it’s the five-star boutique-style version, with contemporary luxury in a beautiful location just 20 minutes from Ambleside.

Sharrow Bay Ullswater,PenrithCA102LZ T: 017684 86301 W: sharrowbay.co.ukThe grandaddy of Lake District country house hotels, Sharrow Bay set the standard for others to follow. Worth going for the spectacular Ullswater views and the afternoon teas – it’s an occasion in itself.

The Linthwaite House Hotel CrookRoad,WindermereLA233JAT: 015394 88600 W:linthwaite.comBijou hotel perched above the eastern shores of Lake Windermere where you can savour views of lakes and fells while avoiding the bustle. The styling is described as ‘Ralph Lauren meets Raffles’ and the restaurant is a gastronome’s delight. Good all year round, with crackling fires and bracing walks in winter and strolls in the gardens in summer.

THE ESSENTIALS: The Lake District & Cumbria

PLACES TO EAT AND DRINKL’enclume RestaurantCartmel,Grange-over-SandsLA116PZT: 015395 36362 W:lenclume.co.ukCartmel may seem like an unusual spot to find a Michelin-starred restaurant, but chef Simon Rogan has made an amazing temple to gastronomy in this 13th century smithy. There’s seven comfy and characterful rooms to roll into once you’ve worked through the epic, palette-expanding tasting menu.

Drunken Duck InnBarngates,AmblesideLA22ONG T: 015394 36347 W: drunkenduckinn.co.ukFantastic 400-year-old Lakeland Inn where you can dine in the fab restaurant, sample a prize-winning ale from the on-site Barngates Brewery, and stay the night in one of 16 spacious and comfy rooms.

The Punch Bowl InnCrosthwaite,LythValleyLA88HRT: 015395 68237 W:the-punchbowl.co.ukThis top quality Lakeland gastropub set in a tiny village near Kendal is great for a cosy country bolthole weekend. Has a nice vibe about it – the sort of place where old and new work together well, from the top notch foodie standards of the restaurant to the locals popping in for quick halves of beer.

The Sun InnKirkbyLonsdaleLA62AU.T: 015242 71965 W:sun-inn.info17th century Inn with all mod cons set in the attractive market town of Kirkby Lonsdale in the Lune Valley, Has kept all the traditional heritage elements of flag floors, roaring log fires and cask ales but combined it with high quality contemporary cuisine and rooms replete with Wi-Fi access and LCD TV’s.

Lucy’s of Ambleside ChurchRoad,AmblesideLA220BUT: 015394 32288 W:lucysofambleside.co.ukFoodie mecca at the top of Lake Windermere with specialist grocery store, restaurant and bistro. Recently opened another brasserie outpost in Bowness plus a cookery school.

Pheasant InnBassenthwaiteLakeCA139YET: 017687 76234 W:the-pheasant.co.ukOne of the best things about staying in the Lakes is waking up to amazing views. Peacefully set in its own gardens and woodland between the lakes and the fells, the hotel makes an ideal base for exploring the northern end of the Lakes.

THINGS TO SEERuskin’s ViewKirkbyLonsdaleThe discerning Victorian thinker was so captivated by this spot overlooking the River Lune that he described it as ‘one of the loveliest scenes in England’. Admired by Wordsworth and Constable too, it was also the subject of a JW Turner painting.

Castlerigg Stone CircleJustoutsideKeswick Even through it is dwarfed by the surrounding mighty peaks of Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Blencathra, this 5,000-year-old circle of 48 craggy standing stones has an awesome presence and dignity.

SheepfoldsVariouslocationsacrossCumbria W:sheepfoldscumbria.co.ukAndy Goldsworthy has made his name creating art out of found objects in natural environments. This series of 46 installations was created as part of a seven-year project to bring to life a number of derelict sheepfolds across the Cumbrian countryside. GPS coordinates and directions to all the folds are listed on the website.

Hadrian’s Wall CountryCarlisleW:hadrians-wall.orgBritain’s greatest Roman monument is effectively one of the globe’s largest World Heritage Sites – 150 miles running from Ravenglass in Cumbria to South Shields at the mouth of the Tyne. Carlisle makes a great starting point for exploring this frontier of the Roman Empire, from its fascinating history to its archaeological remains.

Grizedale Forest ParkT: 01229 860010 W:forestry.gov.ukSituated between Coniston and Hawkshead, this beautiful forest hides over 70 works of art and sculpture scattered through the woodland. There are walking and cycling routes with beautiful views over Coniston Water and plenty of arty pit stops.

THINGS TO DOWindermere Lake CruisesT: 015394 43360 W:windermere-lakecruises.co.ukThe best way to enjoy the beauty of Lake Windermere is from the water, with regular sailings daily throughout the year.

Ullswater ‘Steamers’Glenridding,CumbriaT: 017684 82229 W:ullswater-steamers.co.ukTaking one of the atmospheric old lake steamers on Ullswater is not only a joy in itself, it’s a great way to access some lovely and not too taxing walks, including the popular lakeshore walk to Patterdale.

Ravenglass and Eskdale RailwayT: 01229 717171 W:ravenglass-railway.co.ukKnown affectionately as ‘la’al Ratty’, this is the oldest narrow-gauge railway in England. Originally built in 1875 to carry iron ore, it now provides an entertaining seven mile, 40-minute steam train journey that winds its way through the forests and fields of lower Eskdale.

THINGS TO BUYCumberland sausage, Kendal mint cake, Grasmere gingerbread, contemporary art.

GIVE IT A WHIRL…Via FerrataHonisterSlateMine,Borrowdale,Keswick CA125XNT: 017687 77230 W:honister-slate-mine.co.uk/via_ferrata.asp Altitude = adrenaline and you’ll get high in more ways than one on this ‘iron road’ up the mountainside. A zip wire and harness mean you can follow the practically vertical old slate miners trail in safety.

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THE CULTURE LIST: The Lake District & Cumbria

THEATRES & VENUESBrewery Arts CentreHighgate,KendalLA94HET:01539725133W:breweryarts.co.ukVoted one of the top 10 places to visit in Britain in 2007, the Brewery is the buzzing hub for arts and culture in the south Lakes, with an auditorium for theatre, dance and comedy, three cinema screens, an exhibition space, plus a suitably bohemian bar and restaurant. Whenever you visit, there’s bound to be something on worth catching.

Theatre by the LakeLakeside,KeswickCA125DJT:01768774411W:theatrebythelake.comDoes just what it says on the tin – concerts, performances and exhibitions all set in a fabulous spot overlooking a panorama of mountains on the edge of Derwentwater. Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the theatre is open all year round.

GALLERIESAbbot Hall Art GalleryKendalLA95ALT: 01539722464W: abbothall.org.ukThe high-profile exhibitions at Abbot Hall have attracted national attention since it started its innovative partnership with the Tate in 2001. In recent years the gallery has hosted major exhibitions by artists such as Lucian Freud, Bridget Riley, Euan Uglow and Walter Richard Sickert. It’s also in a great location, housed in a lovely Georgian villa on the banks of the river Kent.

BlackwellBowness-on-WindermereLA233JTT: 01539446139W: blackwell.org.ukBlackwell is a superb example of a turn-of-the-20th century Arts and Crafts house. Now lovingly restored and open to the public, it’s a living and breathing example of the distinctive architecture of the period as well as housing a fantastic and ever-growing collection of Arts and Crafts artefacts. Often holds outdoor sculpture exhibitions in its beautifully-manicured grounds.

Castlegate House Gallery CockermouthCA139HAT: 01900822149W: castlegatehouse.co.ukThe Cumbrian scenery has long been a source of inspiration to artists and this has manifested itself for the 21st century in the area’s concentration of small, independent, contemporary art galleries. Castlegate House is one of the best, specialising in the work of Northern English and Scottish artists in a variety of media from paintings and sculpture, to ceramics, jewellery and glass.

MUSEUMSDove Cottage & The Wordsworth MuseumGrasmereLA229SHT:01539435544W: wordsworth.org.ukWordsworth’s picturesque former home on the outskirts of Grasmere has been lovingly restored and features a whole host of the poet’s original possessions – from his marital bed to his ice skates. A stone’s throw from Dove Cottage is the Jerwood Centre, home to the Wordsworth Trust’s 59,000 manuscripts, books and prints relating to the English Romantics, plus the 3 Degrees West Gallery which holds exhibitions of contemporary art inspired by the poet’s work.

BrantwoodConistonLA218ADT: 01539441396W: brantwood.org.uk‘There is no wealth but life’ said John Ruskin, and you can understand why he had such a great perspective on reality when you visit his wonderfully-sited home overlooking Coniston Water. The house and gardens are open to the public and there’s an ongoing programme of exhibitions and events to enlighten you to the life and work of the grand old man of Victorian art and letters.

Hill TopNearSawrey,HawksheadLA220LFT: 01539436269W:nationaltrust.org.ukSeriously quaint 17th century farmhouse where Beatrix Potter wrote her stories and where Renée Zellweger got to practise her English accent again.

Tullie House Museum and Gallery TullieHouse,CastleStreet,CarlisleCA38TP T: 01228618718W: tulliehouse.co.uk A positive cornucopia of things to do in the Northwest’s Visitor Attraction of the Year 2007, located at the heart of Carlisle’s historic quarter, next to the Cathedral and Castle. You can investigate its Roman collection as a gateway for exploring Hadrian’s Wall Country or enjoy its art exhibitions and interactive galleries of Cumbrian history and heritage. Or just simply while away an afternoon in Old Tullie House itself, a beautifully preserved Grade I-listed Jacobean building with delightful gardens.

Cumberland Pencil MuseumMainSt,KeswickCA125NG.T: 01768773626W:pencilmuseum.co.ukWe kid you not. A quirky museum devoted to one of the region’s oldest industries that developed around the naturally-occurring pure graphite that was mined out of the fells around Borrowdale. More than you’ll ever need to know about the art of pencil-making.

HERITAGELevens HallSizergh,nrKendalLA88AET: 01539560321W:levenshall.co.ukElizabethan stately home dating from the 14th century that’s primarily known for its renowned topiary garden, the oldest in Britain and the blueprint for the 17th century formal garden. The on-site restaurant sells rib-sticking local fayre and it even brews its own spiced Elizabethan beer.

Holker Hall, Gardens & Lakeland Motor Museum Cark-in-Cartmel,Grange-over-SandsLA117PLT:01539558328W: holker-hall.co.ukStately home that’s well worth a visit for its 25 acres of justly-famous gardens plus its status as home to the Lakeland Motor Museum, exhibiting a range of historic cars.

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PRIME SUSPECT:John Squire

As lead guitarist and co-songwriter in the Stone Roses, John Squire was one of the original movers and shakers of the Manchester music scene in the late 80s. As well as his reputation as a musician, Squire is also a well-known, published artist.

In the 80s and 90s, his Jackson Pollock-influenced artwork adorned singles, album covers and promotional posters for his and the Stone Roses’ music. Since then, his artistic output has broadened into new mediums and influences and his latest solo art exhibition will be on display at Gallery Oldham throughout the summer before touring to Austria and Tokyo in the autumn.

And no, the Stone Roses aren’t reforming...

What was the best gig you went to? The Clash, Manchester Apollo, October 1977.

What’s your favourite Northwest originated song or piece of music? Chinese Laundry Blues by George Formby.

What was your first/best experience of going to a gallery or museum? Seeing the Mark Rothko Seagrams paintings at Tate Modern in the early 80s with no prior knowledge of the man or his work.

What’s your favourite painting/ piece of art/sculpture? This week it’s Delineator by Richard Serra.

What was your first/best experience of going to the theatre? I saw my Grandad in something at a community centre in Wythenshawe when I was little, all the coloured lights impressed me. It’s been a downward spiral for me and theatre since then.

Do you have a favourite Northwest pub or restaurant? The Mill Lane Chippy, Macclesfield — fish, chips, peas and curry sauce, perfect every time.

Do you have a favourite Northwest local food? See above!

Can you suggest a ‘hidden gem’ in your home town/neighbourhood? The Ship Inn, Wincle.

What’s the one thing in your home town/neighbourhood that people really shouldn’t miss if they go there? The view from the top of Shutlingslow near Macclesfield forest.

Was there anything particular about Northwest culture that inspired you to do what you’ve done/what you do now? The industrial revolution, The Peterloo Massacre and its legacy, The Russell Club, Hacienda, So It Goes, The Other Side of Midnight.

Blue Monday or Happy Monday? Blue!

Bunny Men or Diddy Men? Bunny.

Jimmy Saville or Peter Saville? Peter.

Beatrix Potter or Brian Potter? Brian.

Welcome to the Pleasure Beach or Welcome to the Pleasure Dome? Beach.

Eccles Cake or Kendal Mint Cake? Eccles.

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