Huron Harvester May 2012

www.acresofsavings.com 1

Huron Harvester Community Magazine

Local Deals &Money Saving Coupons!

Smart Supermarket Shopping?

Historic Coughlin House Inn

What's the Best Laptop For You?

Putters and Scoops Opens May 12th!

2 www.acresofsavings.com






Huron Harvester Community Magazine is published twelve times per year by Harvester Media and is mailed

via the U.S. Postal Service in addition to being made available online at www.acresofsavings.com.

Huron Harvester Community Magazine / Harvester Media are not responsible for the content of the ads

placed by advertisers within the publication or online. The offers presented and/or made available by the

advertisers within Huron Harvester Community Magazine and at www.acresofsavings.com are the sole re-

sponsibility of the advertiser and not Huron Harvester Community Magazine or www.acresofsavings.com.



“Spring makes its own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments , not the composer. "

Geoffrey B. Charlesworth

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR…

C hange… Can you feel it? The air assumes a different character in spring.

Warmth and unspoken happiness have crept into the plains. Birds chirping,

warm winds blowing, and aromas of fresh cut grass and blooming flowers

fill the air. The best time of change has fallen upon us. I love this time of the year.

The cold winter days have passed us and now we are headed into the warmth of

summer. Change is on the horizon.

First and foremost, I want to thank all the business owners that encouraged

our endeavor and helped us in any way they could, from moral support to helping

with aspects of the magazine. A special thanks to Kathy Micheel, owner of Great

Things South Dakota, who has become our partner to deliver a wonderful online

directory of South Dakota businesses and Greg Dykstra and Chris Wilson, at

Dakota PC, who helped with our computers to ensure that we had everything we

needed to publish a high quality magazine. To everyone who has believed in us and

the Huron Harvester... THANK YOU.

When we first started this project a few months back, it was the most

confusing experience I have had since learning to tie my own shoes. Though it was

challenging and an uphill battle we have enjoyed working with everyone to publish

a magazine that, we hope everyone can enjoy.

Now, about the magazine you hold in your hands. The original concept was a

simple “Shopper” magazine with ads and coupons. Through conversations and

guidance from Huron’s business owners and citizens the plan changed, a lot. I was

simply awe struck on how the magazine seemed to take on a life of its own, growing

and evolving every day. What you hold in your hands was created literally through

the love and dedication of the people in this amazing City.

These few months have definitely been interesting

to say the least. It has been a tough road, though very

educational, and I loved every minute of it. I look

forward to working with everyone for the June issue.

Maybe I won’t pull out so much of my hair this time.

Enjoy your stay with us,

~ Adryanna Rogers

Publisher

Harvester Media

Editor

Adryanna Rogers

Sales & Marketing

James Rogers

Huron Harvester

605-354-02-342

[email protected]

www.acresofsavings.com







The Huron Farmers Market will begin on

Saturday, May 19th at 8 am sharp. We have

a rule of ‘no early sales’ thus giving the

vendors a chance to set up, prepare their

tables, and be ready for the customers

giving them the best service possible. We

appreciate the respect we have received

from our customers regarding this policy

and will listen for the bell to ring, indicating

the ‘Market is open!’

The Market runs from 8 am to 12 pm

every Saturday from May to October. As

well on Tuesdays from 4:30 am to 6:30 pm,

beginning this year on June 5th and will run

every Tuesday till October, depending on

the last date in October. We are located at

3rd Street SW and Lincoln Avenue, in the

parking lot south of the Extension Center

Building. Lots of good parking, thus no long

walks to get to the Market.

Weekly HFM articles are published in the

Plainsman, and there will also be monthly

articles in this publication and Prairie

Tracks. So it will be easy for the public to

find information on Huron Farmers Market.

This is the ninth year of Huron Farmers

Market, with each year growing in vendors

and produce selections. We have vendors

coming from Carpenter, Osceola, Iroquois,

De Smet, Wolsey, Huron and Woonsocket.

Some of the vendors attend two different

markets per week, making it a busy time for

them. All produce is raised by the seller, so

they are very knowledgeable in what they

have to offer, as well and willing and eager

to answer any questions asked.

Huron Farmers Market would like to add

farm raised meats and cheeses to the

vendor list, also flowers and herbs are

becoming more popular, another niche for

the market. If you are thinking of becoming

a market vendor , contact Judi Reilly at 352-

5574 or 350-5972 or George Piper at 352-

9580.

Some of the things you, the shopper, can

do to make it an enjoyable experience;

Bring small bills since most vendors do not

have large amounts of cash for change.

Bring bags, totes, or small wheeled carts, so

getting your purchases back to your vehicle

is easy.

Dress for the weather, wear comfortable

shoes and bring an umbrella if it is rainy.

Plan on seeing your friends and neighbors

or having a cup of coffee and rolls. We will

try and have seating available. Shop early

(8am) for best selections.

Huron Farmers Market needs a logo, something to identify the market, so we have decided to conduct a logo contest. This will begin May 1st and end June 30th. Rules and Entry Forms can be attained at the Plainsman or online at www.acresofsavings.com. We look forward to many entries in the weeks to come.

Written By: Judi Reilly

http://www.acresofsavings.com



Is the supermarket a place

where you listen to looped

music while dragging your

feet through every aisle in

boredom? Or is it a chance to fill your cart

with your favorite items and maybe even

get handed a free sample or two while you

shop?

Despite the music, shopping can actually

be interesting. Before you run and grab a

shopping cart to head for the aisles, check

out these tips for smart and healthy

supermarket shopping.

Best Times to Shop

You can go to a supermarket pretty much

anytime you want — some are open 24

hours. Choosing a time and place for food

shopping can help you shop a little

smarter.

Here are some helpful ideas on when and

where to shop:

•Don't shop when you're hungry. If your

stomach is rumbling when you’re in the

store, it’s too late you'll be a goner when

you see all those irresistible treats. Eat a

filling snack or meal before you go to the

supermarket.

•Pick the best supermarket for you. If you

have a choice on where to shop, then

think about the kinds of things that you

want the store to have. For example: a

salad bar, a vegetarian or organic section,

an awesome seafood department or

bakery, or even double coupons? Choose

the things that make it as convenient and

easy for you. Once you've found a store

that you like, you should stick with it.

Knowing where to find the things you

want or need will help you get out the

store that much faster.

•Shop during off-peak times in your local

stores. Have you ever gotten stuck behind

a slowpoke pushing the cart in front of you

because the store is so crowded? Try to

avoid stores when they're likely to be

busiest: usually after work (5-7 p.m. on

weekdays), Friday’s, and weekend

mornings, for example. The best time to

shop is early in the morning, weekend

evenings, or at night when most people

are settled down at home.

Make a List and Use It

You have thousands of food products to

choose from in a supermarket, so it's easy

to get tempted by something or forget

what you really need. Making lists saves

time in the store. Also, plan the recipes

that you want to make for the few days



and list the ingredients you'll need.

By making a list, you will:

•plan better for the meals you're going to

cook

•avoid going back to the supermarket for a

forgotten item or ingredient

•eat healthier and avoid reaching for

something on impulse such as candy or

junk food.

•save money by not grabbing foods that

aren't on the list.

But sometimes even with a list, you need

to make some decisions by yourself at the

supermarket. It helps to think like a master

chef. A good chef makes lists of

ingredients, but also looks over the meats

and produce for what's the best, freshest

and what's a good deal. So if a recipe

needs red onions but they look bad or the

supermarket doesn't have any, the chef

chooses another kind of onion that is the

most similar or tastes best. If a certain fish

is fresher than the one on the list, the chef

might choose it over the other.

Label Lingo

One big part of smart shopping is selecting

healthier foods. Nutrition Facts labels are

printed on all packaged foods and are

posted near produce, meats, poultry, and

fish. Use these labels to let you compare

different foods to see how they differ in

fat, calories, protein, vitamins and

minerals, and other ingredients. For

example, you can compare the serving

sizes of two cereals you like, see how

much fat is in frozen pizza, or find out how

many carbs are in a bag of cookies. You

also can check to see if those foods

contain important vitamins and minerals.

Smart shoppers should be especially

careful about the health claims on food

packaging. The FDA decides whether

manufacturers can call their foods

"healthy" or "low fat." However, it's up to

shoppers to put these claims in

perspective for their own nutritional needs

and eating habits. For example, "reduced

fat" cookies might not actually be low in

fat. They're just required to have less fat

than the regular version of that particular

cookie — and that original version may

actually be much higher in fat than other

cookies.

Here are just a few of the terms you might

see while you shop:

•Healthy: the food is low in fat and

saturated fat, has less than 95 mg

cholesterol and 480 mg sodium, and has at

least 10% of the daily value of vitamins A

and C, iron, calcium, protein and fiber.

•Free (for example, sugar free): the food

contains only minuscule amounts of fat,

saturated fat, sodium, sugar, cholesterol,

or calories per serving.

•Good source: one serving provides

usually at least 10% to 19% of your total

daily needs of a specific nutrient.

•Low sodium: one serving has about 140



milligrams of sodium or less.

•Low cholesterol: one serving has 20

milligrams of cholesterol or less and 2 grams

or less of saturated fat.

•Low fat: one serving contains 3 grams of fat

or less.

•Reduced (for example, reduced fat): one

serving has 25% less fat, saturated fat,

sodium, sugar, cholesterol, or calories per

serving than the original version of that

product.

•Light (or lite): one serving has 50% less fat

or one third fewer calories than the regular

version of the food.

Get the Most from What You Buy

By planning to make recipes and keeping a

grocery list, you've already helped

guarantee that you'll use the foods you

buy.

More tips to help you get the right

nutrition and avoid wasting food and

money:

•Buy a wide variety of healthy foods. If you

have healthy foods on hand, you'll be less

likely to reach for unhealthy ones. Obviously,

foods like fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat are

perishable and will spoil so you can't buy

these far in advance as some other foods.

•Wash and cut up some fruits and vegetables

right away. This way, they'll be more likely to

be eaten up quicker than unprepared items.

Keep them in small containers or bags in the

front of the fridge where you can easily grab

them and avoid unhealthy choices.

•Cook in advance. You might not feel like

cooking after a busy day, and it's tempting to

cruise on through a fast food restaurant. To

avoid this problem, prepare some meals in

advance. When you have time at home, cook

a meal or two and put them in the fridge or

freezer. This way, when you're tired and

hungry, you just need to throw a plate of

food in the microwave — and your groceries

won't go to waste!

Do things that will help you enjoy food

shopping, such as picking a new and

interesting ingredient, spice, or seasoning to

try each week. You could even bring your

own personal music to listen to while Food

shopping. Shopping is something you'll do for

the rest of your life, and it will become

second nature to you, if it hasn’t already.

Note: All information is for educational purposes only. For

specific medical advice, diagnoses, and treatment, consult your

doctor.© 1995- 2012 The Nemours Foundation.



Copyright © TheFrugalShopper.com 1999-2007











When shopping for a new laptop, new or used, cost is usually

the primary concern for most people. With technology advancing

at a rapid pace in the last few decades and with retailers offering

discounts and special offers in

order to entice to buy the

laptop. Laptops have

now become affordable

to the average

consumers who are on

a budget. Just because

you are looking for a

cheap laptop does not

mean you have to

sacrifice any of the

features or

performance of the

laptop.

Laptops are available

in many different specifications in relation to its screen sizes. It is

best to go for a laptop that has a medium size screen as it will be

easy to carry around with you if travelling from one place to

another. An important aspect of a laptop is the processor as this

will dictate the performance and how well the applications run.

Standard laptops today will have a dual core processor with

either Intel or AMD being the preferred choice. Laptops can be

just used for simple tasks such as web browsing, checking emails

and running office applications. The amount of RAM memory

inside the laptop can considerably increase or decrease its

performance. The minimum memory found in laptop is 1GB but

can all the way to 8GB.

Other important specifications to look at are the hard drive,

graphics cards and any optical drives (CD or DVD). The majority of

people will want to use the laptop in order to connect the

internet and that is why you should check whether the laptop has

built in Wi-Fi or has a Gigabit Ethernet Network card.

It is best to write down a list of your requirements as you will

be clear in your mind as to

what you want. By

having a list it will

eliminate any

unnecessary options

out there. Set a budget

on how much you are

going to spend on the

laptop as you do not

want to go over your

budget for a laptop that

does not meet your

requirements.

When doing your

research for a laptop, it is best to shop online as you will be able

to compare several laptops at once as this will enable you to look

over the specifications that each device has. Online forums and

review websites is another area that you will need to look at, as

this will give you an idea as to what other people have said about

a particular laptop that you may be interested in.

If you need to see the product in action, then it is best to go

the retailers' store as there you will be able to test how well the

machine works and how it looks and feels.

It is important that you carry out thorough research before

making your laptop purchase as you do not want to buy a laptop

that is too expensive, has insufficient performance for your

needs, or one that you are not going to use all of its features.

STAY LOCAL ~ SHOP LOCAL ~ GROW LOCAL









There are 10 questions you

should always ask before buying a

used car. Some can be asked over the

phone, via email or text before even

seeing the vehicle in person. Others

should be asked while looking at the

used car directly. Not asking these

questions could lead to problems in

the future for your used car

purchase.

1. How many miles are on the

odometer? (This is best asked in

advance). This helps you determine

an estimated value before viewing

the car. Go to a site like

Edmunds.com with the information

and determine a value for the car.

2. Why are you

selling the car? (This is

also best asked in

advance.) There are

too many variables to

cover all of the

possible answers but

here are a few that

will work to your

advantage:

“I just bought a new car.”

This is good because the seller is

inspired to sell quickly and possibly

cheaper.

“It was my mom’s (or

dad’s).” Again, this is a good situation

because few people want to hold on

to a car in this situation. They usually

want to sell it for the cash.

“It’s a gas guzzler.” Some

people are going to be honest. Don’t

be afraid to take advantage of the

situation.

“It was my son’s car and he

relocated/entered the service/

bought his own car.” This might be a

hard seller to negotiate with because

there is no urgency for selling the

car. This kind of seller tends to stick

to the original price.

3. How would you describe the car’s

condition? (Also is best asked in

advance.) There are three answers

that should appeal to you:

•Excellent – because the car

is going to be in either in excellent

shape, which is always a good thing,

or it’s not and that means you’re

dealing with a dishonest person.

Walk away from any car described as

excellent that clearly isn’t. The seller

is trying to get too much for the car.

•Good – for largely the

same reason as outlined above

because a good used car is always a

good value. Plus, an honest seller is

not going to over-hype a used car.

•Fair – indicates to me a

seller who might not know the value

of his or her car. Or, this could be a

person willing to bargain. People who

describe their used car as “fair” are

either honest or timid.

4. Who was this vehicle bought

from? (Ask when looking at the car)

The best answer is the seller is the

original owner. (Regardless of prior

ownership, always get a Car Fax

report.) All the maintenance records

should be available. Plus, you usually

don’t have to worry about

salvage titles since they are

from original owners.

Although you might

depending on the answer to

the next question.

5. Where was this car

bought? (Ask when looking

at the car.) This is a crucial

fact to know – not just if it

was bought from a dealer, but

from what state. Some states are

lenient about what defines a salvage

title or allow vehicles to be sold from

state-to-state without concerns for

the used car’s past history. An owner

could be the original owner, but

move from another state and wash

the title of a salvaged car. Also, a

car’s geographical background can

indicate specific weather related

problems such as cold winters in

(Cont. on Pg. 23)



Have you ever been out shooting and heard someone say something like "Come up three and a half minutes and left 2 minutes" and wonder what they were talking about? It wasn't pagan voodoo, and by the time you get done reading this article you will know exactly what that meant. Lets take a

look at the MOA system and how shooters use it to accurately engage targets.

The MOA (minute of angle) system, as with every rifle sighting system, is based on the trigonometric shape of a circle, and how measurements are taken within that circle. The definition of minute of angle is one sixtieth of a degree. This function is based on the fact there are 360 degree's within a circle, and 60 minutes within one degree. If you were to point your finger at the center of your monitor, then spin in a complete circle and end up pointing back at the center of your monitor, you will have moved 360 degrees. This is a pretty basic concept that we are taught early in our first geometry classes. As you can see in the diagram below, one degree is a small area of the outside of the circle. One minute, or one MOA is 1/60th that size and an even smaller area.

Shooting is an angular sport, so you need an angular measuring system that takes this into account and allows precise sight adjustments to allow you to hit your target. The size of one MOA is always constant, meaning that 1 MOA is 1MOA regardless of the distance. The vertical or horizontal area that 1 MOA covers is what changes with distance. For instance, 1 MOA covers 1.047" at 100yds and 1 MOA covers 2.094" at 200yds. They are both 1 MOA, but the target distance changed, hence making the area they cover larger the farther away you get from the point of origin.

You've probably noticed by now that the linear area that 1 MOA covers at whole numbers we are used to working with is not convenient. It is not nearly as big of a deal as it appears to be, and here is why. With 1 MOA equaling 1.047" at 100yds, this means 1 MOA equals 10.47" at 1000yds. I have never met a shooter that could shoot to within a half inch of error at 1000yds. So while there is minor error inherent with using whole numbers when talking MOA, it is not very detrimental in the real world. So, typically you can say that 1 MOA equals 1" at 100yds, 2" at 200yds, 12" at 1200yds, and so on. Just remember that the farther the distance to the target, the greater linear error it will be. Thankfully the linear measurement of a MOA at any distance is virtually useless when you are shooting.

That last statement usually raises a few eyebrows. I have stated that shooting is an angular sport, so let me explain why. Say that you are shooting a target at 100yds. The first shot you take falls low. You can see the bullet hole in your scope. You know you need to make a sight adjustment to bring the rounds on target to get zeroed. One way to do it is to measure the distance from your point of aim (POA), to the point of impact (POI). You have a target with 1" grid squares, and you see that your shot fell 2" low. So you go back and adjust your elevation turret up 8 clicks. (based on 1/4moa clicks) Your next shot hits dead center. The problem with this technique is two-fold. It only works at a glance at 100yds, and it requires you to go to the target to measure your correction. At 100yds, you know that roughly 1" equals 1 MOA, so you can dial the adjustment easily on your scope. What if you are shooting at 363yds? Now, not only do you have to break out the calculator to see what your adjustment will be, you also have to walk 726yds with a tape measure! If you can drive to the target, it makes this a lot easier, but you still have to do the math.

Lets try a different method of making a sight adjustment for the same situation above. You take a shot at 100yds, and again it falls low. Rather than getting up to start walking, you simply use your scope's reticle to measure your required correction. Here is where making the correct choice when buying a rifle scope will save you a lot of trouble. Below you see a picture of targets at 100yds with 1" grid squares as viewed through a Nightforce

5.5-22x50 with an NP-R2 reticle.

Not your grandfathers duplex eh? Modern reticles are designed with more points of reference to make this type of adjustment easier. The vertical line in the crosshair is sub-divided into 2 MOA sections. That means if you go outward up or down from the center of the crosshair, each line equals 2 MOA. If you were to go 3 lines down, that would be a 6 MOA. The horizontal line is subdivided into 5 MOA sections. These specifications simply detail the NP-R2 reticle from Nightforce. Other reticles from Nightforce and other manufacturers will have different designs.

We know that the vertical lines are spaced 2 MOA apart, so lets say you took the first shot and it fell low. You aim your crosshair in the exact spot you were aiming when you fired the shot, and you see that the bullet hole is 1 line low, and 1 line left. You now know that you hit 2 minutes low, and 5 minutes left. You hit low and left, so the adjustment you need to make is up, and to the right. You would dial 2 minutes up, and 5 minutes right. If you read your reticle correctly, your scope is in good order, and you run the rifle how you are suppose to, your next shot should fall exactly where it is suppose to.

There is a caveat to this method, and it goes back to making the correct decision when buying a scope. Most scopes reticles are in the second focal plane (SFP). This means that when you dial the power ring, the reticle stays the same size, but the image you see through the scope gets larger or smaller. As such, in order to get a correct and accurate reticle reading, second focal plane scopes must be set on the magnification power they are calibrated for. I will get into this in more detail in a later part of this article.

(Cont. on Pg. 25)



North Dakota or hot, baking summers in

Arizona.

6. What kind of oil do you use in the car?

(Ask when looking at the car.) Believe it or

not, this is a strong indicator of how well

maintained the vehicle has been. A private

seller is going to answer this in three

different ways:

Immediately, off the top of his or her head,

which indicates they probably did the oil

changes themselves and the vehicle is pretty

well maintained.

•After a slight pause, ask if they

can check their records. This also indicates

the car has probably been well maintained.

However, ask to look at the oil change

records. If only one is available, be weary.

•Answers either, “I don’t know” or

gives an incorrect answer. Make sure your

mechanic checks the engine out closely.

7. What are you willing to sell the car for?

(Ask when looking at the car.) This lets the

seller know you’re not going to pay the

asking or listing price. Depending on how

long the seller has been trying to get rid of

the car, he or she might give a pretty good

discount. I’ve faced a similar request when

trying to sell a 1995 Honda Civic. I was asking

a fair $4100 for it. A guy said he would pay

me $3000 cash for it right there and then. I

turned him down, but found out later this

guy did this with every used Honda Civic

advertised. It was a winning strategy for him.

8. How long of a test drive can I take? (Ask

when looking at the car.) You never, ever

buy a used car without a test drive. No

reputable seller will deny you a test drive.

Most, though, will ask you to limit it to less

than 30 minutes. Anything longer than that

makes a private seller nervous, especially if

he or she needs the car for

transportation or other

needs.

9. Are you willing to let me

get this inspected

independently? (Ask after

test driving the car.) Any

hesitation of the seller

should set off warning bells

all over in your head. Don’t

be swayed if the seller says no or tries to

hard sell you on the car. The only answer you

want is, “Sure, no problem.”

10. What’s the last used car you sold? (Ask after test driving the car.) You might be surprised by the number of people who sell used cars as their hobby. They buy them cheap, fix them up, and turn a good profit. Unfortunately, there are some folks who accomplish this by fixing up the cars just enough to get them sold. Sites like eBay Motors will have information on people who are regular sellers. Be leery of backyard car dealerships. They are unregulated, which offers you no protection if something goes amiss.

Written by Keith Griffin





Another problem with this method is when you cannot see your holes in paper or bullet impacts on anything at long range. Even with modern optics it can be very difficult to see bullet holes in paper past 300 or 400 yards, and this number varies greatly with conditions. Some days you can spot 30 cal holes out to 500yds, while other days you would be hard pressed to see them at 200. Seeing bullet impacts on steel, or in the dirt is much easier at distance. On freshly white-painted steel I can usually see impacts out to 1000yds or more. The distance you can see impacts is affected by your scope's optical quality as well as the environmental conditions. To combat this problem you can use high powered spotting scopes or a remote target camera. There are literally hundreds of different styles of MOA reticles available right now, and more are being created every day. One of the biggest factors when choosing a reticle for your scope is to get a reticle that is suited to the job at hand. You do not want a thin reticle like the NP-R2 for shooting deer at 50yds in the deep woods, but it would work very well for steel shooting or bench rest competition. Often your reticle choices will be narrowed a bit as you select manufacturers that produce a scope which meets the rest of your requirements. Two of the most important aspects of choosing a rifle scope is selecting your reticle and turrets. It is the source of confusion for many, as there are literally hundreds of different combination's. The most common is quite possibly the most wrong, in my opinion. Originally, the turret/reticle combination didn't matter much, because there wasn't much to choose from besides a standard duplex reticle. With the advent of the mil-dot, the choices became a little more broad. The mil-dot system will be covered in more detail later in the article. The most widely adopted tactical combination was to use a SFP (second focal plane) mil-dot reticle, and MOA turrets. One of the biggest offenders being the Leupold Mark-4 line. This grossly handicaps you when trying to read the reticle to make adjustments because of the "ruler" (your reticle) does not match your "inputs." (your turrets) So it is not a matter of just reading your reticle and making the corresponding turret adjustment. The mil system is a different angular measurement all together. One mil covers 3.6" at 100yds, while one minute covers 1.047. So to translate what you see via the mil reticle, you must multiply it by 3.44. It is close enough to 3.5 to get some mental slight of hand done, but it still means that you have to convert what you see in mils, to minutes before you can put the adjustment in the turret. So if you see that you hit 1 mil low, you must dial 3.5 minutes up on the elevation turret. If you were low by 2.5 mils you would have to take 2.5 x 3.44 = 8.6 minutes. Now, due to the fact that most MOA scopes have 1/4" clicks, you would have to dial to 8.5 minutes. If you had 1/8 MOA clicks, you could get closer, but scopes with 1/8 MOA clicks are not very practical outside of benchrest competition. This mismatched turret/reticle combination is the least desirable from a tactical standpoint. It is simply not fast enough to be competitive. A much more desirable setup is a matching reticle and turret. With the MOA system this is very difficult to accomplish due to the fact that a reticle with 1/4 MOA sub tensions would be very cluttered and almost impossible to distinguish except on powers above 22x. Even then it would be difficult. As a result, when you get a scope with MOA

turrets and an MOA reticle, the adjustments you still need to break the reticle down into imaginary subsections. With practice, it becomes easier, but when you start out it can be difficult even with a reticle subtended in 1 MOA increments. The farther the subtentions the harder it is to break down in your mind. One of the downfalls of the MOA system is that when you start shooting long range, you start to get into some big numbers. For a typical 308 shooting 175SMK bullets, you'll have to dial around 42 MOA to get to 1000yds. If you have a turret with 10 minutes per revolution, this means you have to turn it over 4 times before you get to your mark. That's a lot of cranking. Most shooters scoff at that remark and exclaim how its easy. However, if they ever get to shooting precision tactical type competitions they quickly change their tune. Within the last year, two scope manufacturers have listened to the community and developed new "high speed" turrets that give you much higher adjustment per turn of the turret. Premier Reticles has a turret which offers 100 minutes of adjustment within 2 turns, which when combined with their excellent MOA reticle and zero-stop effectively solves the speed problem. Even with the Premier optic, you still have to deal with the larger numbers. Now this is very much a personal opinion that will vary from shooter to shooter. Some people do not mind the bigger numbers. Most of these people are very math-oriented and can solve more complex equations in their head. Even for the people whom can manage the numbers very effectively, the communication barrier surrounding the MOA system can create a problem when shooting around other people. The MOA system is understood by most, but when trying to call out corrections to a teammate, or to paint a picture of a target engagement for a friend during a conversation it can be very clumsy. For instance, say you are the spotter for your friend in a competition. You run out to stage #1 and are presented with a cold bore shot at 1000yds. You are allowed 2 rounds at this stage, and it is worth 100 points in a 500 point competition. Obviously this is a very important stage. As the spotter your job is to call accurate corrections. The first thing the shooter has to do if he is using a scope bought prior to the last couple months is to start cranking away on his turret. If he is shooting a fast rifle, he'll only have to pull two or three revolutions. If he's shooting a 308 or something similar with heavy bullets, he's going to need at least 4. After he shoots, if he misses you will need to call out a correction. If you saw he was 4 1/2 MOA low and 3 3/4 MOA left, you will have to say "Come up four and a half minutes, and come right three and three quarter minutes, fire." Now you may not think that sounds very complicated, but introduce a time clock and pressure of collecting your $100 entry fee back and you would be surprised at the things that will trip you up. Granted this problem can be solved with training, but it does not make it easy to just lay down next to anybody and communicate effectively. Users that know the MOA system can easily transition to any other system, as they are all angular. It is just a different unit of measure. If you have a MOA reticle, you can call corrections for a shooter who is using mils, and vice versa. The accuracy and speed in which these corrections are called depends on how well you read your reticle, how fast you can convert the numbers, and how effectively you can tell the other shooter. However many minutes you see in your reticle, you will simply divide that number by 3.6, which will give you the correct adjustment in mils. It definitely won't be as fast or accurate as (Cont. on Pg. 26)



calling shots for someone that has a reticle matching your own, but it

can be done in a pinch.

The final aspect of the MOA system we will talk about is how to

estimate the range of a target using your reticle. Now that you

understand how to read your reticle, this is a simple matter of a small

equation. You can use any of the equations in the figure below to

accomplish this task to give you your desired output and preferred

inputs. First you take a measurement of the height or width of the

target using your reticle. You take the height of the target in your

chosen unit of measure, divide it by the reticle reading you got

earlier, then multiply it by the number on the right. So, lets say you

are shooting at an IPSC steel target, which is 30" tall, and you read

the target is 6 MOA tall in your scope. You would take 30 / 6 x 95.5 =

477.5 yds.

The Inch Per Hundred Yard (IPHY) system works in very much

the same way as the MOA system, but is a slightly different unit of

measure. We talked about the linear offset with MOA when working

with whole numbers, in the capacity that 1 MOA = 1.047" at 100yds.

The IPHY system eliminates this problem in that 1 IPHY covers

exactly 1" at 100yds. Due to the MOA offset being so small, and the

increasing insignificance of the linear measurements on target, the

IPHY system has not gained much traction. Several scope

manufacturers still offer reticles and turrets in IPHY for users that

request them, but I do not see the MOA system being replaced by

IPHY anytime soon. I'll list the ranging equations for IPHY for those

of you that want them.

In the next part of the Rifle Sighting System's series we will talk

about the Angular Mil system from its inception to its current standing

as the a favorite among tactical competition shooters.

— Greg Dykstra





Estate Planning Opportunities For 2012 From Gordon D. Wollman

MS– Financial Planning, CFP®, ChFC, CMFC®, CRPS, AWMA, AAMS

It is often said that there are two

certainties in life, “death and taxes.” Unfortunately, for many Americans, death does not mean that you are finished paying taxes. Unless Congress makes any new legislation, starting in 2013 the gift, estate and GST tax exemptions will be $1 million with a top tax rate of 55%.

What do these changes in federal estate taxes mean to you?

Here are some steps to consider: Organize Your Records Everyone involved will benefit if you organize all of your records now to show the assets and the cost basis of those assets on anything that your heirs will inherit.

Give Your Estate Plan a Complete Check-up No matter what your net worth, you should still have an estate plan. Estate planning goes far beyond taxes and is essential to all investors. Your estate plan should include your will, power of attorney, and living will, and trust. Review Your Will & Living Trust If you have these documents, please make sure they include language that protects you against the change in estate tax exemption amounts. Review all of Your Beneficiary Designation Forms & Documents Some of your assets will not pass through a Will or Living Trust. For example, if you have life insurance or retirement accounts you

need to make sure that your beneficiary designation forms are current with the beneficiary designations that you want. Remember, a beneficiary form will always override any trust or will directive. Consider a Credit Shelter (Bypass Trust) A Credit Shelter Trust often includes a formula clause that allocates the maximum tax-free amount to the trust if you die before your spouse. This trust can then distribute your assets as you specify in the trust document. Review what State Estate Taxes, if any, Exist Please keep in mind that most states honor a will that was signed within that state. Use Trusts as Needed Trusts still continue to be an important part of estate planning and can sometimes protect against financially irresponsible family members, former spouses and creditors. Think About Not Just the Present, but Also the Future This is a good time to revisit your current arrangements and make sure you understand the tax consequences on funds going to your spouse and your grandchildren. Last but not Least-Take Care of Yourself The primary purpose of estate planning is to preserve your wealth and try to assure that it is transferred to your designated beneficiaries at the time and in the manner of your choice at very reasonable costs with the least amount of pain & suffering. As a financial planner, we help and direct clients and formulate strategies for their estate plans.

Call us today to schedule a review of your estate plan. (605)357-8553 (Sioux Falls) (605) 352-9490 (Huron) 280 Dakota Ave. S. - Huron, SD 57350 & 224 N. Phillips Ave. Suite 102 - Sioux Falls, SD 57104

Securities offered through Raymond James Financial Services, member FINRA/SIPC. This article is for informational purposes only. This information is not intended to be a substitute for specific individualized tax, legal or investment planning advice as individual situations will vary. For specific advice about your situation, please consult with a tax or financial professional. This article provided by MDP, Inc. © MDP, Inc. Investing involves risk including the potential loss of principal. No investment strategy can guarantee a profit or protect against loss in periods of declining values.



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