Hydraulic Arm Building Activity

8/11/2019 Hydraulic Arm Building Activity

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How to Build a Rocket and HydraulicArmStep 1: What you are going to need!

FOR THE BODY OF THE ROBOT:- Cardboard box (the harder the better, Iused a pizza box but you can used anytype because we are going to reinforcedwith the duct tape)- Scotch Duct tape (I like the silverbecause the metal like look)- 3 machine screws 3 inches in size withnuts- 2 machine screws 1 inches in sizewith nuts- A flat and square piece is wood ideally12 inches by 12 inches for the base toattach the robot

FOR THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:- 8 syringes (you can get them at anypharmacy without prescription just sayyou need the type that is use for coughmedicine , you cant put a needle onthose. I got mines at CVS andWalgreens for free)- 6 feet of clear tubing x .170 (gotmine at home depot for $3)- WaterTOOLS:- Scissor - Ruler- Pen - Drill

Step 2: Draw the template
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Now draw the template on thecardboard, these are the measures thatI used but you can change them tomake a smaller or bigger robot.From the template cut out:2 x A piece2 X B piece2 x C piece2 x D piece

1 x E pieceThese are the main parts of the bodyand the rest of the parts are going to bemade as you go because they dependon the thickness of your cardboard andhow many layers of duct tape you use.Because I used thick pizza box I onlyneeded one layer.

Step 3: Reinforce you parts
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Now that you have all you parts cut outyou have to reinforce them. First coverone side of a piece with duct tape andthe cut the extra tape, the cover theother side and cut the extra tape.Repeat this for all the parts, if yourcardboard is not strong enough repeatthis step putting more layers of tape untilyou are satisfied with your result.

Step 4: Start building

Now the best part, when you see thatyour robot starts taking shape.

The next piece you have to make is acube that is going to hold together thebottom of the 2 A pieces For my robot I used a cube that is 3inches wide by 1 inch sides (cube= 4sides)

After you cut and fold the cube reinforceit with tape.

Step 5: Continue building
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The reinforce cube needs to be attachedto the bottom of the A piece (thebottom is the longer part 3) First attach it to one piece and then theother. Put your piece in the floor to make surethe cube is level before taping.

The technique i use for taping i call it Ltaping, look at the picture so you canunderstand better. Next attach the "A+CUBE+A" piece tothe 6" circle base using L taping (use asmuch tape as you think is necessary toget a strong hold )

Step 6: Make your next cube and holder for the first syringe
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Hold your two B pieces on the inside ofthe A+CUBE+A piece and measurethe space between them, that is how

wide your cube needs to be.Now makeyour cube with your new size followingstep 4. ( in my case my new cube is 2

1/2" wide). keep the 1 inch measure forthe sides of the cube. After making yourcube, attach it to the B piece leaving 1

inch space from the end.

Next depending on the thickness of yourcardboard make 2 or more squares aswide as your first cube (in my case 3inches) by 1 inch long and tape themtogether , this will be taped to the middleof the A+CUBE+A piece to hold thesyringe.Place the square vertical and give it justa little of an angle.

Place the square vertical and give it justa little of an angle.
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Step 7: Build next part and next cube

Repeat the beginning of step 6 but withthe "C" pieces. Hold you C pieces on

the inside of the of the B+CUBE+Bpiece and measure the space betweenthem, that is how wide your cube needsto be (in my case 2 inches wide) by 1inch long for the sides. Reinforce the cube and the attach it tothe corner of the "C" pieces

Step 8: Make the holder for the claw and the claw

Now you have to make the holder forthe claw that goes between theC+CUBE+C piece. The holder is a rectangular cube that is4 inches long and the sides are 2 inchesby inch.follow the same steps in step 4 and theattach to the front of the "C+CUBE+C"piece flush with the front.Now make the claw, the "D" piece.depending on the thickness of yourcardboard you need to put as manylayers of cardboard and tape as youwant until you get a strong claw (in mycase 2 layers of cardboard and one oftape)Make hole in both parts of the claw largeenough for your 1 1/4" screwNow make a hole in the front corner ofthe claw holder in the "C+CUBE+C"

piecePut you screws and attach the clawparts.

At this point you should be half waythere, hold the parts on their place anddrill you have to drill in the joints of therobot across the inside of the cubesand place you screws.
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Step 9: Attach to base and make hydraulic system 1st syringe

Now attach the robot to the base.Drill in the middle of the cube at thebottom of the "A+CUBE+A" piece and

on the wood for the base and put your3" screw. Now, to start with theHydraulic system, attach you first
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syringe to you holder on the "A+CUBE+A" piece (just like the picture)

Now cut two pieces as wide as yoursecond cube by 1/2 inch tape themtogether and attach this to the 1 inchspace you left in the "B+CUBE+B"piece (just like the picture)then put a pin in that new piece andtape around it then tight a piece of ropeto the pin and from there to the syringetight and cut, make sure the arm isdown and the syringe is all the way outto get the right length of your rope (refer

to picture for better understanding)
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Step 10: Second syringe For the second syringe you need to make a holder in the top part of the "C+CUBE+C"piece.
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Use the same procedure as step 9,make sure the arm is down and thesyringe out to get the right length for therope.This is completely adjustable dependingon how high or how low you want yourarm to move, play around withthe length of the rope to find out whatworks best for your robot

Step 11: Syringe for the claw

The syringe for the claw is going to bedirectly attached to the claw with ducttape, make sure the duct tape is not tootight so the claw can move freely.

Step 12: Syringe to turn the arm
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At the base of the robot attach a pin andthe a syringe about 3 inches from thepin

Attach a wire from the pin to the syringewhen the syringe moves makes the armrotate left or right.Now tape to the wood base 3 syringesnext to each other, each of these are tobe connected to the syringes in the arm.

Step 13: Run the tubing to all syringes

Run the tubing to all the syringes andthe fill with water and enjoy.Watch the video to see the project done.
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Step 1: Materials and Tools

This is all you will need:

Tools:

Pencil/Marker (something to markwith)

Ruler Scissors Compass Sharp knife (I used an X-Acto

knife) Glue brush (shown in Step 5) hot glue gun needle-nose pliers Computer with internet access

To launch your rocket:

launch pad/rod ignition circuit

Materials:

2 x Manila Folders, letter-size(or more if you mess up)

Scotch tape Duct tape (for structural

integrity and, erm... progressivedesign enhancement) Rocket engines (although I

bought Estes A8-3 engines Iwould recommend gettingsomething stronger, like a B- orC-class)
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Step 2: Designing your rocket

First, go to this site . This Java applet was developed by NASA and is thesimplest tool to use in designing a rocket. In order to use the modeler software,you'll need to download the applet.
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Scroll the page down a little bit and there should be a yellow button reading"Download Applet" on the left hand side. This will link you to this page . Next,
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following the instructions on the page, download the .zip folder. Find the .zipfolder in your files and unzip the folder. When you return to the first page, theRocketModeler applet should be able to run in your browser.

You may need to change some security settings to allow the applet to run, and if

you are having trouble the site will also walk you through this. I usedRocketModeler III 1.2h, but there are other versions available. If you are havingproblems getting the applet to work on your system you can try using theprevious versions.

Once you have RocketModeler up and running, you need to first select the"Solid" fuel option at the top right hand corner of the applet. Then, go ahead andstart playing with settings in order to see how different parameters change theperformance of the rocket. You can toggle through the Design, Fuel, Pad, andLaunch pages using the buttons in the middle of the window. On the Designpage, you can switch through the menus for the various components using thetabs at the top of the rocket schematic in the top left. The settings I used can beseen in the images. I changed the length of the nose to 4 inches, and changedthe thickness of the cone to 1/16 inch cardboard to match the double-manilalayering of the rocket cone. I then changed the recovery system to a 1 ftparachute. On the Body tab, (I left the payload alone), I changed the material to1/64 manila, and increased the length to 17.5 inches. Finally, on the Fins tab ichanged the material to 1/64 manila, the locate in to 0, the length to 4 inches, theL.E. angle (leading edge) to 60 degrees, and the T.E. angle (trailing edge) to 0.The width of the fins automatically snapped to 2.309 in, given the parameters.

Hit the "GO" button in the middle of the page, then switch to the fuel page.Thinking I would be using a larger engine, I chose a C6-7 engine. Hit "GO" forthe fuel page, and the same for the "Pad" page. On the "Launch" page, hit "Fire",and the animation of your rocket's launch will play. The applet will then supplyyou with the theoretical height and speed graphs that your rocket would produce.You can go back and play with the settings until you reach your desired height.Just make sure to go back through each of the Design, Fuel, and Pad pages andhit "GO". For some reason the applet won't allow you launch your rocket unlessyou do this before each launch.

Once you have finished your design, you can mark down the dimensions of yourrocket and move on to build your rocket.

Step 3: A Note on Rocket Design...

In designing your rocket, you want the Center of Pressure to be positioned belowthe Center of Gravity. The higher above the CP the CG is positioned, the morestable and straighter your rocket will fly .
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You can see in the first picture that before I cut off the tabs, the length of themanila was around 17.5 inches, which is what I set the length of my body tube tobe. After I cut the tabs off, I was left with a nice piece of material with clean,sharp corners. This is where we start rolling the sheet into a tube

In my experience, when you try to roll the body tube all at once, the manila justcrumples up with a bunch of wrinkles. I found that running the manila over theedge of your work surface helps to progressively curve the manila without leaving
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any ugly folds or wrinkles. After about twenty-ish runs on the table edge, you canstart using your hands to tighten the tube until its inner diameter matches that ofthe rocket engine. When the tube was small enough, I stuck a rocket engine ineither end to help the tube keep its shape. You'll want to use tape or rubberbands to keep the tube tight while you make the glue brush in the next step.
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Step 5: Rocket Body Tube: Gluing and Other things

For the gluing of the rocket, you'll first want to find a brush, or make one if youdon't have a random one lying around. If you just want to run a straight bead ofglue on all the pieces, you could, but I found that the glue brush made applying
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the glue to all the various pieces much easier. Also, the pieces will dry faster withthe brush because you are using less glue. If you couldn't find a small, cheapobrush to use, you could make a brush like I did. To make the brush, I ripped off acorner piece from a sheet of paper and covered the corner with Scotch tape. Thisis so that the tip wont break apart from being soaked with glue. I then rolled thepiece of paper around a pencil so that the corner hung off the end of the pencil.You can see in the picture that the paper forms to any surface it is pressed to,making it ideal for applying glue.
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I used rubber bands to keep the body tube rolled to the right diameter, but youcould use tape, clothespins, or anything else you want to help you keep themanila held tightly while gluing.

The method I used was to start with two rubber bands, one at either end of the

tube. Again, I kept the rocket engines inserted to ensure a tight fit. Then, I usedthe glue brush to apply glue a little bit at a time to the flap of the manila. After Iglued a section, I rolled a rubber band down the length of the tube and begangluing the next section, progressing up the tube until the entire thing was done.

After letting it dry overnight, there were a few gaps here and there where themanila wasn't fully glued down. I used the glue brush and a little bit of pressure tostick them back in place. If you didn't glue the tube exactly evenly, there will beone side that fits the rocket engine better than the other. Mark this side as thebottom of the rocket, and the other side the top.

Finally, I used the X-acto knife to clean up any uneven bits from the ends of thetube .
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Step 6: Nose Cone: Rolling again

Not more rolling...

Here's where you'll need to break out the compass. After I did some calculations,I found that a cone approximately the height of 4 inches could be achieved byusing 4" radius circle. Complicated, isn't it?
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Use the compass to mark out the 4" radius circle onto another manila folder. Cutit out, then fold the circle in half. Cutting along the fold, you'll be left with twosemicircles. Cut a small notch in the middle of the straight side of eachsemicircle. These notches help to form the sharp point of the cone

Then, take one of the manila semicircles and line the straight side along theedge of your work surface, with the curved side away from you. Hold a finger
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point in the middle of the straight side to act as an anchor point, then use yourother hand to roll one side of the semicircle on the edge of your work surface.The piece should spin around your finger like a wheel. Sorry if the picturesaren't clear!

The semicircle should begin to look like it's curving into a cone shape. You canbegin making the cone tighter, working it until it matches the diameter of the bodytube. Use clothespins to hold the cone in place while you glue the flap down.
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Do the same to the other semicircle. Instead of forming it to the body tube, youcan form it to the first cone by forcefully pushing the second cone into the first(the first cone should be properly glued and dried). Now that the inner cone isformed, you can pull it out, add a little glue inside the first cone, and then reinsertthe piece, again pushing forcefully. After letting the finished two-layer piece dry, Iused the X-acto knife to trim off excess material and clean it up.
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Now you'll need to form the conduit tube that allows the cone to insert into thebody tube. Cut down the length of a toilet paper tube, then cut along the curve ofthe tube to make a curved strip of cardboard. I cut mine too long and ended upneeding to saw down the tube afterwards. You only need the strip to be about 1inch thick. Again (with more rolling), use the edge of your work surface to workdown the curve of the cardboard until it can fit inside the body tube snugly. Youmay need to trim off some material if the strip is too long. Coat the inner side withglue, then reinsert the cardboard into the body tube. You can use a pencil orother slim object to tighten the piece inside of the body tube. After it dries, youshould be able to remove the piece from the body tube. Now you'll need to make

the second part to the conduit. Cut off a piece of the toilet paper tube so that itfits with a small gap inside the first conduit tube. This will allow the piece to bendto the inside of the cone. Insert it into the first conduit piece, then push it into thecone to see how far up the piece has to go in order to make contact with theinside of the cone. Mark its position with a pencil. Then, apply glue and reinsert it,forming the finished conduit tube.
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Finally, coat the inner piece to theconduit tube with glue and insert itinto the cone, pressing firmly. Lookdown the length of the piece as yourotate it so you can true the angle ofthe cone. Let it dry, and then you'redone with the nose cone!

Step 7: Folding the Fins

With the fins, you can use whatever method you like. I went for an idea offorming the triangular fins by folding and gluing a single piece in half. You can see from the pictures that i originally tried to make the fins out of onesingle piece, but I ended up misjudging the distance between the fins and thepiece was uneven when wrapped around the body tube. I ended up having to cuteach of the fins individually. Even if I had measured properly, gluing would have
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been a nightmare with the large, unwieldy piece. Cutting it into the threeindividual fins was much easier. Gluing was tricky, but I ended up just using theold glue-and-hold-with-your-fingers technique, along with some aids on cornersthat were tough. The fins ended up better than I expected .

Step 8: A Few Adjustments...

Due to my design flaws, I realized that my Center of Gravity was much too closeto my Center of Pressure. You can adjust this by adding more weight to thenose-end of the rocket to move the Center of Gravity higher up. It ended upadding a good bit of weight to my rocket :( . Oh well, you learn as you go!

Step 9: Engine Retention Clip and Launch Lug
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You'll also need some way of keeping the engine inside of the rocket.

I was a little worried about the engine not staying in place, so I formed a retentionclip using a paper clip. I unbent the paperclip with a pair of needle-nose pliers so
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it was a straight piece of wire, then folded it in half. I then made a 90 degreebend at the end to hang on to the end of the engine, then taped the piece to theside of the rocket. When you launch the rocket, you'll want to wrap some tapearound the engine and the clip.

The launch lug is a small cylinder which the launch rod is inserted into so that themodel rocket will launch straight. I just hot-glued a length of small drinking strawto the side of the rocket and it worked perfectly.

Step 10: Parachute and Wadding: Getting to the Guts of It
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The final piece you need is to create a line so you don't lose your nose cone, anda parachute for recovery.

I cut a circle of plastic bag about 10 inches in diameter, and put 8 pieces of ducttape around the circumference of the circle. These were reinforcement for the 8slits I cut around the circle for the parachute lines. I cut out 8 pieces of line, abouta foot and a half long. You can really use any sort of thread-like material. I was ina pinch so I used dental floss! I tied the strands through the slits with a squareknot, then tied all 8 lines together. After testing the parachute to make sure itworked, I folded it up and stuffed it inside the body tube. You'll want to use somerecovery wadding, inflammable paper, to prevent the parachute and otherinternals from burning up. If you don't want to buy some, you can make your ownwith this Instructable . Stuff the wadding in first, then the parachute.

Finally, use a

Date post:	02-Jun-2018
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Hydraulic Arm Building Activity

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