Il sistema della cosmetica e la sfida della ripresa 17 settembre 2020 The consumer transformed. Reflecting on customer's changing behaviours to re-invent a post pandemic future. 4° Beauty Summit
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Il sistema della cosmetica e la sfida della ripresa
17 settembre 2020
The consumer transformed. Reflecting on customer's changing behaviours to re-invent a post pandemic future.
4° Beauty Summit
24° Beauty Summit Pambianco
54%
46%2.448
46%
54%
Millennials (25 – 40 anni)Generation Z (18 – 24 anni)
Intervistati Gen - Giu 2020
23.545
50%
50%
Osservatorio Millennials & Gen Z
Global ConsumerInsights Survey
M
Z
11° 5°
Intervistati Mag - Giu 2020
Italia27 Paesi
Before COVID-19 After COVID-19
16%
42%
30%
11%1%
Generation Z (18-24)
Millennials (25-40)
Generation X (41-55)
Baby Boomers (56-75)
Greatest Generation (76+)
19.098Respondents
27Territories
74Cities
4.447Respondents
9Territories
35cities
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Before COVID-19
I consumatori globali che nel New Normal spenderanno meno di prima sono quasi raddoppiati
Q2. Quale delle seguenti situazioni hai riscontrato a seguito dell'attuale situazione COVID-19 (Coronavirus)? * Comprende le risposte: "una riduzione del reddito familiare dovuta a perdita di lavoro / riduzione delle ore" e / o "una riduzione del reddito familiare dovuta a malattia / cura degli altri»Domanda, 2019: in termini di spesa personale per i prossimi 12 mesi, ti aspetti di ... Base: 19.098Domanda, 2020: A causa della situazione COVID-19 (coronavirus), come prevedete che la spesa della vostra famiglia cambi nei prossimi mesi? Base: 4,447 Fonte: PwC, Global Consumer Insights Survey 2020
40%dei consumatori globali e
57%dei consumatori italiani
hanno subito una riduzione del reddito a causa dell’emergenza COVID-19
Middle East 49%Cina 43%Francia 49%
Spend more
Spend less
Spend the same
46% 33%
33% 32%
19% 36%
After COVID-19
Spagna 56%UK 43%Italia 42%
+ 89%
- 28%
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Tagli nelle spese delle famiglie: il Beauty è fra le top 5 categorie che registrano il calo maggiore….
35%36%41%
46%51% Prodotti
Health & BeautyMaterialeda ufficio
Ristoranti(pick up/ delivery)
Attrezzaturesportive/ outdoor
Abbigliamentoe scarpe
51%46%
41% 36% 35%
Spain 70%Italy 65%UK 60%
Spain 61%Italy 57%ME 53%
Spain 62%UK 58%China 49%
ME 50%Spain 49%Italy 44%
Middle East 45%UK 44%China 42%Italy 40%
Q4. Come sono cambiate le spese delle famiglie nelle seguenti categorie, se non del tutto, a seguito delle misure di allontanamento / isolamento sociale COVID-19 (Coronavirus)? Comprende la % di coloro che hanno dichiarato "diminuito" - esclude coloro che hanno dichiarato "Non spendo in questa categoria - esclude coloro che hanno dichiarato «Non spendo in questa categoria»Base range: 3158 – 4094Fonte: Global Consumer Insight Survey Pulse 2020
35%dei consumatori globali riduce le spese in prodotti H&B
Principali categorie che registrano un calo di spesa
Relatore
Note di presentazione
CONSUMI DISCREZIONALI Propensione al risparmio ITALIA al 13% (fonte prometeia luglio 2020) la più alta degli ultimi 20 anni Marzo-Maggio poca possibilità di spendere ma dopo aumenta tendenza al risparmio.
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5
Quali saranno le Key words?New normal Beauty
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Quanto è importante per lei acquistare prodotti italiani?Quali sono i motivi principali che la spingono ad acquistare prodotti Fashion/ Accessori/ Beauty italiani? Selezionare fino a tre risposteFonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
Le abitudini di acquisto dei clienti diventano più volatili: prezzo, qualità e sicurezza sono adesso determinanti anche per M&Z
6
2% 32%
Per nulla Abbastanza / Molto
2% 83%15%M
2% 32%3% 71%26%Z
Le nuove generazioni riconoscono il valore del «Made in Italy»:
78%dei Millennials e Gen Z (vs 61% nel 2019) sceglie Beauty e Cosmetici «Made in Italy» per la «qualità» e «sicurezza» dei prodotti
vs 67% nel 2019
vs 55% nel 2019
Gen Z +39% vs 2019
Millennials +22% vs 2019
Italia
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Post COVID-19 i consumatori aumentano gli acquisti online a discapito degli store, stabili nuovi device (smart home e wearable)
93%
90%
90%
Likely to continue increased use
How has your use of the following shopping channels changed, if at all? How likely are you to continue to use this channel to the same extent when social distancing/social isolation measures are removed?Base 4447Fonte: PwC Global Consumer Insights Survey, 2020
45% aumento shopping da smartphone
41% aumento shopping da pc
33% aumento shopping da tablet
60% 57%
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Oltre l’80% dei consumatori nel mondo ha acquistatoonline Health & Beauty negli ultimi 12 mesi
86%
86%
81%
79%
79%
76%
75%
75%
74%
73%
73%
Libri, musica, film, videogame
Abbigliamento e scarpe
Health & Beauty
Consumer electronics
Giocattoli
Attrezzatura sportiva/outdoor
Elettrodomestici
Mobili e complementi d'arredo
Fai da te
Gioielli / orologi
Grocery
Consumatori che acquistano online nel mondo
Q13 For each of the following product categories, how many of your purchases have you made online over the last 12 months? (Please select ONE option)Nota: escluse le risposte di chi non ha acquistato negli ultimi 12 mesiBase: 19,098 Fonte: PwC Global Consumer Insights Survey, 2020
Vs 77% nel 2019
Vs 66% nel 2019
Vs 44% nel 2019
Vs 67% nel 2019
Vs 45% nel 2019
9%
33%
39%
19%
Esclusivamenteonline
Metà/gran parte Qualche acquisto Non hoacquistato online
81%93% (vs 89% nel 2019)
84% (vs 76% nel 2019)
Vs 8% 2019
Vs 36% 2019
Vs 32% 2019
Vs 23% 2019
Anche in Italia i giovani sperimenterannoe accelereranno l’uso di nuovi canali nel beauty
Attraverso quale canale ha fatto la maggior parte dei suoi acquisti negli ultimi 12 mesi? Beauty e cosmetici - Nota: comprende solo le risposte dei Millennials e non considera le risposte «Non ho effettuato acquisti negli ultimi 12 mesi»Quanti prodotti Beauty e cosmetica ha acquistato online negli ultimi 12 mesi? - *Nota Dati presentati sono relativi ai rispondenti che acquistano esclusivamente, gran parte, circa la metà o qualche acquisto online nella categoria (sono esclusi coloro che non hanno fatto acquisti di questa categoria)Negli ultimi 12 mesi quanto si ritiene soddisfatto dei suoi acquisti online di Beauty e cosmetica? - Nota sono state considerate solo le risposte di chi ha dichiarato di acquistare Beauty online negli ultimi 12 mesi Fonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
65%
33%
2%
Negozio fisico Online Altro (Catalogo, canali tv)
-9% vs 2019 +30% vs 2019 -31% vs 2019
Canale scelto per la «maggior parte» degli acquisti Beauty
68%Ha fatto acquisti Beauty online nell’ultimo anno*
M: 90% Z: 48%88%
dei consumatori M & Z è soddisfatto o molto soddisfatto dei prodotti beauty acquistati online
M: 90% Z: 87%
Italia
65%
33%2%
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Tecnologie per migliorare l’esperienza in store:
38% Sistemi di Self Check-out
34% Offerte personalizzate inviate sul proprio smartphone
28% QR code per tracciare il prodotto
27% Virtual experience di prodotti/ servizi
26% App per la navigazione in-store
26% Esperienza di acquisto employee-free
24% Personalizzazione dei prodotti in store
14% Nessuna delle precedenti
L’e-commerce non farà sparire i negozi fisici: lo store è il canale di acquisto preferito, ma dovrà evolvere…
47%
28% 20% 30% 15%
In-store PC Mobile/ Smartphone
Tablet Smart Assistants
32% UtentiAmazon Prime
Generazioni più anzianesono legate ai negozi
“tradizionali”Q12. How often do you buy products using the following shopping channels? (Daily and Weekly) (Please select ALL that apply)Q21 What new technologies would enhance your in-store experience? (Please select ALL that apply)Base: 19,098 Fonte: PwC Global Consumer Insights Survey, 2020
Canale scelto per acquisti giornalieri e settimanali
“vendite online” e “vendite fisiche” scompariranno poiché tenderanno a fondersi e si parlerà solo di “vendite retail”
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In quali delle seguenti categorie ritiene che i social media abbiano influenzato la sua decisione di acquistoNota: Domanda a risposta multiplaFonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
Cresce di anno in anno l’importanza dei social per l’ispirazione all’acquisto anche nel beauty
67%
38%
37%
37%
30%
27%
21%
44%
31%
43%
37%
27%
32%
19%
Abbigliamento e Accessori
Beauty e Cosmetici
Viaggi
Tecnologia
Sport e Tempo libero
Food
Fai da te 2020 2019
38% dei giovani scopre i propri cosmetici grazie a influencer o al passaparola sui social (vs 31% nel 2019)
59%
30%
45%
34%
23%
19%
10%
M&Z GlobalM&Z Italia
Italia
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Nella scelta di un retailer fisicola «fiducia nel brand» rimane il fattore determinante…
Ma sale in seconda posizione la «vicinanza»
Mi fido del brand
30% Gli addetti alle vendite sono preparati
45%
36% Buona posizione
34% Ha in stock gli articoli che desidero
vs 46%del 2019
Oltre al prezzo, quale fattore la influenza nella scelta di acquistare da un particolare negozio fisico "preferito"? Selezionare fino a tre risposte Nota: Domanda a risposta multiplaFonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
vs 4° posizione nel 2019
Millennial44%
Gen Z47%
vs 5° posizione nel 2019
Italia
134° Beauty Summit Pambianco
Post-COVID-19, la consapevolezza di dover fare qualcosa per la salute e il pianeta è diventata ancor più urgente: M&Z attenzione in crescita su prodotti «eco» e brand «sensibili»
9%
• Scelgo prodotti sostenibili per proteggere l'ambiente
• Cerco packaging eco friendly• Evito l’uso della plastica
Prodotti«eco»
• Cerco prodotti di brand che promuovono pratiche di sostenibilità
Brand «sensibili»
M: 24% Z: 31%
28%
• No auto• Favorevole a condivisione/
noleggio • Favorevole a second hand
Comportamento personale
Quale informazione riflette meglio il suo comportamento d'acquisto in termini di sostenibilità?Nota: i dati 2019 sono stati riparametrati escludendo la risposta «Non sono interessato alle tematiche di sostenibilità»Fonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
M: 68% Z: 59%
63% vs 57% nel 2019
vs 27% nel 2019
vs 16% nel 2019
Italia
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M&Z in Italia chiedono:
Nel Beauty i consumatori ricercano prodottinaturali, sostenibili ed etici
In quale dei seguenti casi siete disposti a pagare un prezzo più alto per l'acquisto di prodotti di abbigliamento, accessori o beauty?Fonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
53% Prodottinaturali
50%
36%
28%
Cosmetici senza nichel, parabeni, petrolati…
Prodotti eco-friendly
Prodotti etici
vs 3° posizionenel 2019
vs 2° posizionenel 2019
Marchi noti per pratichesostenibili
Italia
Relatore
Note di presentazione
PPT NIELSEN 2018 More than nearly any other fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) sector, the beauty industry is guided by trends. And over the last few years, multiple trends have emerged with the promise that they will redefine the future of beauty. From balayage to activated charcoal, it seems like the next big thing can come from just about anywhere. And while that’s more true than ever, how are you supposed to know when something really is a thing, and when it’s just a flash in the pan? The secret is finding a connection between the micro-trend and macro consumer needs, which are readily shifting. Because, while we’re in the midst of a great proliferation of brands, products, services and, yes, trends, the new shifts creating sustained growth opportunities for brands and retailers are really nothing new at all. More than ever, trends are starting small and growing into something far more mainstream. Over the last three years, distribution of beauty and personal care items with charcoal have nearly quadrupled. And as the trends grow, they constantly evolve, take new forms and help new products and categories find connections with consumers. So, the real question becomes, how do you justify investing in understanding something that represents just 1% of your category or market? Well, if in fact that micro trend is connected to a more systemic shift in the market and you’re not along for that journey, you’ll spend more time catching up then adapting to the evolving shifts. Today, there are three big systemic shifts that will redefine the future of the beauty industry. While they represent the future, these shifts should come as no surprise. But, the breadth of forms they’re taking are creating micro-trends that represent serious opportunity. NATURAL As with organic food and household supplies, more consumers are becoming interested in natural beauty products. That’s because a focus on health today isn’t confined to what consumers put in their bodies. Now, we’re just as aware of what we put on our bodies. But, how shoppers are looking for more natural beauty products is already evolving. And what “natural” means to one shopper might be very different from what it means to another. PARABEN FREE IS THE WAY TO BE In recent years, beauty shoppers have become more focused on parabens as an ingredient to avoid than just about any other. For many consumers, synthetic compounds like propylparaben and butylparaben are hard to pronounce and hard to view as a safe ingredient. And beauty manufacturers have been responsive to these concerns. In fact, just 35% of beauty products contain parabens, down nearly 7 points over the last two years. Relative to other packaged goods categories, beauty and skin care manufacturers have been quite responsive to shifting consumer preferences. Just a quarter of dairy products and a third of packaged food sold in 2017 were “clean label,” meaning they were devoid of any undesirable ingredients. In edible categories, undesirable ingredients include things like high fructose corn syrup or MSG. But for the beauty industry, there’s still work to be done. Many categories still derive a significant share of sales from products with parabens and likely many other undesirable ingredients. The good news? Those categories still heavily focused on parabens are some of the fastest shifting to paraben-free. Over the last two years, facial cosmetics have gone from just 43% paraben-free to 54%. But there’s more to beauty and personal care trends than parabens. In fact, there is a wide array of specifications driving incredibly strong growth across beauty and personal care. These include products free from phthalates, artificial fragrances, sulfates and more. Across each of these, products without these ingredients are selling faster than those that include the same ingredients. But when products are free of some or all of these ingredients and include a natural claim, sales really take off. In fact, while sales of cosmetics free from parabens have grown around 2% over the past year, sales of those that also claim to be natural grew 12%. So, to truly deliver natural beauty, you have to first satisfy that natural appeal at a functional, granular level. Only then can you bolster that with a natural claim. Do that well, and the growth opportunities are staggering. WHAT ABOUT THE GOOD STUFF? You can remove all the ingredients that you want, but the product does still need to deliver something. And while simplifying the ingredients that a product includes is a good first step towards truly natural beauty, there are a range of ingredients that can be included that live up to the cleaner, healthier and at least perceivably natural appeal. With more consumers thinking about their food as medicine, it should come as no surprise that many of the ingredients consumers are looking for in natural beauty come from emerging food trends. Superfoods like coconut oil and quinoa, which first emerged as food trends, are now starting to show up in beauty and personal care items. But it seems like the time between when a trend emerges in food and jumps over to beauty is condensing tremendously. Avocado oil is an interesting example of such a trend. Over the last two years and across consumer goods, spending on products with avocado oil has increased 31%. Over the same period, the number of U.S. households buying these products has nearly doubled, growing from 6% to 11%. And of the 31 different categories that now contain this ingredient, hair care and lotions are growing the fastest. On the food front, more people are turning to avocados as a source of a more healthful fat, and that more healthful trade-out is creating an opportunity for beauty brands to tap the same appeal. Over the last year, we’ve seen similarly natural trade-outs drive ingredient trends forward. Sales of health and beauty products including honey, charcoal and micellar, for example, are growing rapidly—even exponentially in some cases. So what’s the next charcoal or avocado oil? It may well be seaberry or sea buckthorn oil, herbal oils believed for centuries to have anti-aging properties. Sales of beauty products including these ingredients are growing over 200% annually, primarily in skin care, but in hair care and cosmetics as well. HOW TO CAPITALIZE ON NATURAL BEAUTY Natural beauty means something different to each of your customers. And consumers will increasingly take their own paths toward a more natural beauty experience. These transparency-minded consumers seek authentic brands and products, and each will likely seek different natural appeals on their path toward a more natural beauty regimen. So, what’s your path toward natural beauty? PERSONAL The same shoppers who are redefining what healthier, natural beauty products look like are themselves younger, more racially, culturally and ethnically diverse and cosmopolitan consumers. While it’s arguable that Millennials are “killing” the beauty industry (along with every other one), they clearly represent a more diverse shopper base. But, it’s not about appealing to the new beauty shopper. There is no one beauty shopper. THE NEW BEAUTY SHOPPER Finding your path to truly natural beauty starts with an understanding of your consumer. As consumers are increasingly focused on narrower, more personal definitions of natural beauty, we’ve seen rampant fragmentation of consumer segments. Even across this single dimension, it’s clear there’s no one natural beauty consumer. As you’re thinking about tapping emerging trends like natural beauty, the shoppers that delivered growth in years past will likely not be the ones to get you through to tomorrow. But, while it might be easy to blame Millennials for any struggles you’re having, that view of consumer diversity is far too simplistic. For example, buyers of hair care products without artificial fragrances are far more likely to be ethnically diverse, younger and cosmopolitan. To truly understand the needs of your shopper, we have to look at more nuanced, personal consumer segments. NUDE IS NO LONGER JUST BEIGE Just as the meaning of natural has become fragmented, so too has our view of the average or generic beauty product. As with natural beauty, shoppers are flocking to products that provide more individually relevant experiences. Across most cosmetics categories, “nude” colors are underperforming the category as a whole, a trend that has emerged over the last two years. With a more diverse consumer base, what was once generic has now become less relevant. Consumers have always wanted their beauty products to reflect their individuality. What’s shifted over the last few years is that shoppers have immense options when they step up to the beauty counter. Over the last five years, the number of unique facial cosmetic colors available on shelves has grown 22%, outpacing the general pace of new product development in facial cosmetics by 7 times. With 679 unique colors of foundation from which to choose, consumers were able to self-select their own version of beauty. And in the process, brands that haven’t adapted have lost share. CATEGORIES ARE BECOMING FEATURES Consumers’ focus on transparency and ingredients has implications beyond making beauty more natural. In much the same way that smartphones have all but made dedicated point-and-shoot cameras obsolete, entire categories are becoming folded into other products’ feature set. That’s because consumers no longer shop categories. They shop their needs. And increasingly, an “all-in-one” product is the best solution for those needs. We can see evidence of this shift in the decline in sales of sunscreen as a discrete product, and the growth of products with sunscreen as an ingredient. In fact, sales in the sunscreen category have declined over the last year as consumers opt to cover their sunscreen needs by buying products that feature sunscreen as an ingredient, ranging from hand and body lotion to shampoo. The delineation between categories has all but broken down and consumers now shop fluidly between categories. Now, brands and retailers will have to more deeply understand shopper needs and appeal to those needs on a more personal level. It’s no longer enough to simply grow a category. It’s more about solving problems in creative ways. ANYONE CAN BE A BEAUTY BRAND As consumer needs fragment and shift, an ever-widening range of brands and products are popping up to fill those needs. Indie beauty brands— free of massive corporate infrastructures and worldwide supply chains— have certainly risen to fit some of these needs, and the industry has rightly been focused on understanding their appeal with consumers. While indie, small and niche brands continue to expand their reach and take share, they’re delivering consumers with endless choice. They’re also rewarding seemingly odd entrants to the beauty brand landscape. Over the last five years, retailers’ store brands have grown cosmetic sales nearly 3X faster than entire cosmetics category, gaining a full percentage point of share in the process. This shift toward store brands isn’t unique to beauty. It’s happening across packaged goods and around the world. At the close of 2016, the average FMCG national brand saw 1%-3% growth and store brands’ sales were declining. A year later, fortunes reversed, with store brands growing 2% amid flat or declining growth for national brands. DIGITAL TOOLS ARE BECOMING PERSONAL ADVISORS While brands and retailers have granted consumers a seemingly endless range of range, digital tools, devices and platforms have empowered shoppers to find the precise products for them. And in the short period of time that digital has become ubiquitous for many of us, our relationships with technology is already changing how we use it. Rapidly. Over the last five years, Google searches for “foundation for me” have more than doubled. Mobile devices give us the answer to any request at the tap (or swipe) of a finger. But as these devices have gotten smarter, we now expect them to understand our unique, individual needs and so a search for “best foundation” becomes “best foundation for me” over time. While we might have previously asked a friend or retail associate for help in making this choice, we’re now entrusting our devices to meet our needs. This enables brands and retailers new points at which to engage. But, as always, relevance is critical. HOW TO CAPITALIZE ON PERSONAL BEAUTY Today, anyone can be a relevant beauty brand. While the beauty industry has been heavily focused on the growth of indie brands— and they will certainly continue to drive innovation in the market— the premise of what it means to be a brand is being redefined. In fact, many direct-to-consumer brands actively communicate that they give consumers value by stripping away the wasteful overhead that big brands bring. But what they’re getting at is the inefficiency of a mass market strategy, the antidote to which is a more targeted, personalized and ultimately relevant method of building brand loyalty. The path toward building a relevant brand is being authentically relevant to individuals, at scale CONNECTED As more buyers grow increasingly comfortable with incorporating online channels in their paths to purchase, the opportunity for manufacturers and retailers to connect with them is increasing as well. But, connecting with digitally engaged shoppers isn’t as easy as encouraging them to visit a website or dropping promoted posts in their social media feeds. As more people shop via digital assistants without ever stepping up to a shelf (digital or otherwise), it goes without saying that the playbook for building and sustaining brand loyalty has changed. THE BEAUTY OF E-COMMERCE The mobile internet is undeniably one of the greatest tools ever created for reaching individuals at scale. Constant connectivity means shoppers can research and buy whenever and wherever they like. Mobile phones are some of the most personal devices we own. Given widespread mobile connectivity, it might come as no surprise that consumer spending on beauty products has shifted online faster and greater than nearly every other packaged goods category. In fact, nerly one in three dollars spent on beauty products in the U.S. today is spent online. This critical mass, at such an early stage of online development, is impressive. Americans spent over $12 billion on beauty and personal care products online over the last year. What’s truly staggering is how rapidly this sizable business is growing and how quickly share is moving to online channels. Notably, that $12 billion in spending represents 30% of dollars flowing through online channels, up from just 24% a year ago. Beauty and personal care products are particularly ripe for online development, given consumers’ combined interest in both exploring new products and replenishing the ones they already own and love. These two shopper modes—discovery and replenishment—are some of the strongest drivers of online penetration across FMCG. While beauty shoppers are ahead of the FMCG curve in online shopping, we’re still very early in the development of truly connected beauty. To understand where things are headed, Nielsen conducted an analysis of online share today, and included an index of factors that indicate whether shoppers might be willing to shop online in the future. We considered the impact that value, convenience, variety and experience have on shoppers’ willingness to buy a category online and scored each accordingly. While fragrance, hand and body lotion and cosmetics have amassed the most significant online share of sales to date, our analysis indicates that hair care, and hair coloring in particular, presents the biggest online growth opportunity across beauty and personal care. THE ONLINE BRAND LANDSCAPE So you want to capture a piece of this rampant online demand for beauty products? You’ll find an entirely different brand landscape online than in traditional brick and mortar retail. From new brands and retailers ranging from direct-to-consumer pureplay brands and subscription (many of which are increasingly investing in their own store brand-like offerings), you’ll be up against business models that simply don’t exist offline. As a result, the balance of power between large beauty brands and smaller ones looks completely different online than they do in a brick- and-mortar environment. In fact, while the top 20 cosmetics brands capture 90% of the dollars going to brick-and-mortar retailers, those same companies capture just 14% share online. THE ONLINE BRAND LANDSCAPE IS VAST AND REWARDS A DIFFERENT TYPE OF BRAND (grafico a pagina 13 della presentazione Nielsen 2018) PLATFORMS TIE DISCOVERY TO PURCHASE Compared with other packaged goods sectors and much of retail, online giant Amazon has not driven the bulk of online beauty growth. Rather, the strength of specialty and prestige retailers like Sephora and Ulta have powered much of the early online beauty development. But the online beauty landscape surely isn’t constrained to activity on retailers’ sites and apps. As more research has moved online, facilitating new product and brand discovery, much of that activity has concentrated on social networks. This is particularly true for cosmetics, in which social media garners more influence on the path-to-purchase than just about any other category across non-edible packaged goods (except shaving). The effect of the growth of social media and mobile platforms should come as no surprise. As consumers spend more of their time on mobile devices, it was only natural that mobile advertising got its foothold in brand media, product discovery and inspiration. But the next battleground for many mobile and social platforms will be harnessing the data that tells them what their audiences might be interested in and connecting that with the ability to buy right on the platform. Brands are able to make their posts shoppable across a variety of platforms, essentially bringing the point-of-sale right to the point-of- discovery. The path-to-purchase is no longer a path at all. It’s a short moment. And when the digital shelf extends to include these social platforms, merchandising will look more like search engine optimization as getting your digital content right not just for consumers but also the ranking algorithms will be crucial to winning the digital shelf. Is your organization ready to make that transition? HEY YOU, BUY MORE LIPSTICK We’re in the midst of yet another technology transition to voice as a major input to our devices. As millions of consumers bring voice-based digital assistants into their homes, brands, retailers and platforms face new opportunities and challenges to connect with those consumers. These devices make technology disappear. You simply talk to your device: there’s no tapping, swiping or clicking. While some might say that spells the death of brand loyalty, these devices are a great way for brands to re-instill a connection with consumers. They reduce the friction in buying goods and empower consumers to more easily replenish the goods they already love. They can also tap a deeper knowledge of individual consumer needs and purchase history. They’re truly personal assistants, and increasingly, shoppers are utilizing their devices to shop. In fact, our research shows that more than one-third of Google Home owners have used their devices to buy a personal care item, followed closely by 29% of Amazon Echo owners. HOW TO CAPITALIZE ON CONNECTED BEAUTY As with social platforms, the rules for building brand loyalty in a voice- based world will be different. Without a shelf—digital, physical or otherwise—you won’t be able to influence the purchase via packaging, brand name or many of the traditional tactics that merchants have used for centuries. But if you can find a way to leverage the data and technology on which these devices are built to make your products personally relevant for consumers, you’ll have a greater chance to succeed in this future. Building a connected beauty strategy is not the same as building a digital or even omnichannel strategy. It’s about thinking about how you can leverage all of the platforms at your disposal for their maximum utility. How are you using technology to provide useful services to consumers—online and off? Are you making your products platform-worthy, enticing users to not only share your product but love your product? WHAT’S NEXT FOR BEAUTY Technology has never truly changed fundamental consumer needs. It may enable new behaviors, but the fundamentals of brand building have never really changed. Can you create a product that authentically fits a need that your consumers have and use the platforms at your disposal to achieve distribution at scale? The fact that consumers are more health and wellness focused, more diverse and more technologically empowered shouldn’t fundamentally change your purpose as a brand, retailer or company. However, these shifts will require you to change how you reach—and ultimately prove your purpose to—those consumers. To win in the future, brands will need to throw out their old playbooks. Consumers are as focused on the transparency of the company and their practices as they are on what goes into the products they make. The beauty brands—really all brands—that will be successful, will be authentic and true, flexible enough to be relevant to a wider array of consumers, and harness the digital tools and platforms to achieve this at scale. SO, WHAT DO YOU STAND FOR?
154° Beauty Summit Pambianco
Secondo lei, quali dei seguenti strumenti sono piùefficaci nel comunicare informazioni sulla sostenibilità da parte delle aziende Beauty e Cosmetica?Nota: Domanda a risposta multiplaFonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
Etichetta
1°
M Gen Z65% 73%
Campagna pubblicitaria
3°
M Gen Z39% 42%
2°
M Gen Z57% 61%
Social
L’etichetta supera isocial come strumento piùefficace per comunicareinformazioni sullasostenibilità delle impresedi beauty & cosmetica
Scelta dal 69% dei giovani M&Z (+103% vs 2019)
Italia
164° Beauty Summit Pambianco
Quali informazioni ritiene che dovrebbero essere indicate sulla confezione / etichetta di un prodotto per valutarne la sostenibilità?Selezionare fino a tre risposteFonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
66%Tipologia di ingredienti e materiali del prodotto
63%Provenienza degli ingredienti / paese di fabbricazione / lavorazione del prodotto
Indicazioni sulla riciclabilità / smaltimento del prodotto / confezione
Certificazioni legate alla sostenibilità
56% 37%
M&Z si aspettano etichette intelligenti con ingredienti e provenienza del prodotto, per valutarne l’effettiva sostenibilità
Italia
16
174° Beauty Summit Pambianco
M&Z sono inoltresensibili al tema“Animal Free” ancheper la crescenteattenzione allasicurezza dei prodottie alla propria salute È sensibile al tema animal free, ovvero acqusta prodotti (fashion, accessori, beauty o food) privy di component di origine animale?Per quale categoria acquista prodotti animal free? BeautyNota: Domanda a risposta multiplaQuale delle seguenti affermazioni definisce meglio il suocomportamento d’acquisto di prodotti?Quanto è disposto a pagare per avere prodotti animal free?Fonte: PwC Millennials vs Generation Z 2020
66% sceglie prodotti Beauty non testati su animali, cruelty-free e/o 100% vegano
M+Z
39%
45%
16%
Acquisto esclusivamente prodottianimal free
Acquisto gran parte dei prodottianimal free
Acquisto solo alcuni prodottianimal free
Italia
184° Beauty Summit Pambianco
What’s next? Crescente desiderio di transparency, sustainability, cleanliness, community living and social consciousness
Maggiore attenzione a salute e benessere
Esigenze mediche 75%
Salute e forma fisica 70%
Dieta 53%
Salute mentale 74%
64%
69%
63%
69%
Nuove abitudini post COVID-19
74%
36%
44%
59%
35%
45%
Lavora da casa (almeno a volte)
Ha aumentato spese in entertainment e media onlineMillennials che hanno un abbonamentoAmazon Prime
Ha aumentato uso di video chat apps
Acquista groceries online/by phone
Condividerebbe le proprie info per migliorare l’ambiente
Evita uso della plastica
66%
31%
35%
49%
To doEssere “Customer Focused”• Relazioni più strette con i consumatori
• Ripensare i programmi di loyalty
Accelerare il Digital e le innovazioni:• Focus su digitalizzazione, ma con il corretto trade
off tra ESPERIENZA DIGITALE e negozio FISICO
• Valorizzazione delle innovazioni che semplificano problematiche del cliente
• Sviluppare Omnichannel non solo a parole
• Sviluppare strumenti di AR e AI e live streamedmarketing
Focus Sicurezza & Sostenibilità: • Focus su sicurezza e benessere
per fidelizzare i clienti
• Fare scelte sostenibili ed etiche (anche in logica corporate)
Relatore
Note di presentazione
Closer relationships Community One effect of the epidemic has been a shift in the archetypal consumer's journey from "physical store shopping + platform-based e-commerce" towards a "life on the cloud" diversity of coexisting models, including integrated e-commerce, social networking sites, vertically-integrated platforms, official brand websites, online live streaming influencers and private traffic. The epidemic has already had a dramatic effect on the offline landscape that will likely resonate for some time. Offline also urgently needs a period of optimization and adjustment.
Nicola Giorgi è un executive con più di venti anni di esperienza internazionale nella direzione di aziende e marchi globali.
Dal 2017 svolge attività di Consulenza Strategica, Direzionale e Operativa in ambito Moda, Lusso e Automotive.
Ha esperienza di General Manager in diversi settori con focus su Prodotto, Business Development, Marketing e Comunicazione, Retail, CRM e Digital.
Come consulente ha svolto importanti progetti per Benetton, Maison Margiela, Coccinelle, Manila Grace, Woolrich, Pomellato/ Dodo, L’Autre Chose; è stato Consigliere di Amministrazione di società tra cui L’AutreChose.
Professore a contratto nei corsi postlaurea dell’Università di Bologna (BBS).
