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PR O D UC T I VI T Y A N D COSTS

S I T RA 's s e r vic e s o n 'O p t imisa t io n o f la b o ur r e q u ire me nt

for spinning mills'- A review....1

TECHNICAL NOTES

1 . P ro p er t ie s o f g re y y ar n & s i ze d ya r n - A c as e s tu d y. . .. .4

2 . E ffe c t o f O lig o me rs in s p in nin g a n d w e t p r oc e s s in g . . ..6

3 . C o t to n S tic kine s s is s ue s a n d s o lu tio n s

P ar t 4 - M e th o ds t o a s se s s s ti c ki n es s o f c o tt o n. .. .9

PROJECTS

A n inv e st iga t io n o n t he q u a lit y a tt r ib ut e s o f Co mp a ct

D o u ble d & T F O D o u ble d y ar n s . .. . 11

STAFF NEWS....16

CO N FE R EN C E A N D SEMINARS.....18

TRAINING ......19

ABSTRACTS.......20

In this issue

SITRA News i s a bi - mo nthly m a ga z i ne, c i r cul a te d to m e mbe r m il l s .

S I T R A NE W S - M ar c h - A p r i l 2 0 1 5 , Vo l . 5 6 , N o. 2

2 0 15 , T he S o uth I ndi a Te x ti l e R e se a rc h A s s o ci a ti on1 3 / 37 , A v i na s h i R o a d, C o i m b a to r e A e ro d r o me P o s t , C o i m b at o r e - 64 1 0 1 4 ,

Phone: 0422-2574367-9, 4215333, Fax: 0422-2571896, 4215300

E-mail:[email protected], Website: www.sitra.org.in

T hi s i ss ue c an a ls o b e do wn lo ad ed f ro m

SITRA.ORG.IN


2/23

SITRA News

March - April 2015

S IT RA 's s er vi ce s o n ' Op ti mi sa ti on o f l ab ou r r eq ui re me ntf o r s p in n in g mi l ls ' - A r ev i ew

A s m il l s a re a wa re , on e o f th e e ss en ti al r eq ui re me nt s f or a m il l t o

s tay p ut i n th e b us in es s i s t o exe rc is e a g oo d co nt ro l o ve r th e c onve rs io nc os t. O f th e t ota l f ib re t o ya rn c o nv ers io n c os t, s a la ri es a nd w ag es c os t

(SWC) is the second largest component next only to the power cost.

P re se nt ly, la bo ur is a ls o e xp en si ve , c os ti ng mo re t ha n R s 1 .2 l ak hs p er

w o rke r p er y ea r. T h e S WC r el a ti v e t o s al e s t u rn o ve r m us t b e m a in ta i ne d a tt h

we ll bel ow 10% . A s p er th e 3 0 CP Q st udy, on e- seve nth of the mi ll s

m a in ta i ne d t he S WC ( re l at i ve t o s al e s t u rn o ve r ) at b e lo w 5 % an d i n as h i gh

a s 5 0 % o f th e m i ll s , t h e S WC w as b e tw ee n 5% an d 10 % . O n th e o t he r h a nd ,

in n e ar ly o n e - fo u r t h o f t h e mills , t h e S WC w a s a b o ve 1 0 % of s a les t u r no v e r.

T he a bo ve i nfo rm at io n l ea ve s a n i mp or ta nt m es sa ge t ha t t he re i s

a n u r ge n t n e e d in ma ny e x ist in g mills t o in c re a s e t h e la b o ur p r od u c t iv it y s o

a s t o co n tr o l t h e S WC a t w e ll b e lo w 1 0 % o f s ale s t u r n ov e r.

O p t i mi s at i on of l a b our re q ui rem e n t

To wa rd s i n cr ea s in g t h e l a bo u r p ro d uc t iv i ty, a m i ll h a s t o i ni t ia te

two steps:

1 ) O pt imis at io n o f wo r ke r s r e qu ire me nt f o r t h e e x ist in g w o r kin g

conditions and

2) Plan for modernisation of machines with automation which in

t u r n wo u ld inc r ea s e t h e ma c hin e p r od u c t iv it y a ls o .

O p t imis a tio n o f la b o u r r e qu ir eme n t is n o t h in g b u t e n ga g in g e a c h

a n d e ve r y w o rke r at o p ti m um wo r k l o ad . I n ot h er wo rd s , u n de r -l o ad e dw o rke rs s h ou l d no t b e e n ga g ed . T h is w ou l d e ns u re m a xi m is a ti o n of l a bo u r

productivity under a given working condition.

P

RODUCTIVITY

ND

C

OSTS

1


3/23

F ac t ors t o b e c on si d e re d i n t h e op t im i s at i on p roce s s

To wa rd s o pt im is i ng t he w or ke rs re qu ir em en t, a m il l h as t o fi rs t

e st im at e t he w or k l oa d of e ac h a nd e ve ry c at eg or y o f op era ti ve s fo r t hee xi s ti n g w o rk i ng c o nd i ti o ns . I f a ny c at eg o ry /c at eg o ri e s o f w o rke rs a re

found under-loaded, the following measures have to be considered towards

in c re a s ing t h e w o r k lo a d t o t h e o p t imu m le ve l.

All the above 5 measures, if implemented sincerely, would result-in

a s ig n ific a nt r e du c t ion o f o p e ra t ive s in ma ny mills .

A s m i l ls a re a wa re , S IT R A ha s b e en r eg u la r ly o f fe r in g c on s ul ta n cy

s er vi ce s t ow ar ds o pt im is in g t he w or ke rs r eq ui re me nt . S IT RA ha s o ve r 5d e ca d es o f ex p er i en c e i n c ar r yi n g- o ut t h e a b ov e s e rv i ce . I t h a s b ro u gh t -o u t

a n u mb er o f p u b lic a tio n s in t his r e ga r d w h ic h d e a l w it h t h e me t h od o lo g y t o

a r r iv e a t w o r klo a d a n d w o r ka s s ig n me n t o f w o r ke r s .

Scope for reducing operatives requirements

It has been noticed that in all the mills in which the work

a s si g nm e nt s t ud y w as c o nd u ct ed by S I TR A o ve r t h e y ea rs , t h er e w as a g o od

s c o p e t o re d u c e t h e o p e ra t ive s s ig n ific a nt lyJ us t t o h ig hl ig ht t he o ut co me o f t he a bo ve c on su lta nc y s er vi ce ,

p ar ti cu la rs o f s om e m il ls fo r w hi ch SI TR A h ad re ce nt ly o ffe re d t he

c o n su lt an c y s e r vic e , a r e g iv en in Ta b le 1 .

I t ca n be s ee n th at t he re i s a g oo d sc op e t o re du ce t he o pe ra ti ve s

r eq u ir em e nt i nv ar i ab l y i n a l l t h e 6 m i l ls w i th t h e e xt e nt o f r e du c ti o n r an g in g

from 10% to 20% between mills, the average being about 15%.

O f t h e t o ta l a n t ic ip a te d r e du c t ion in o p e r a tiv e s (Ta b le 2 ), a s h ig h a s8 5 % i s f ro m p ro d uc t io n o p er at i ve s f ol l o we d b y m a in te n an c e o p er at i ve s

(9%) and non-production operatives (7%).

I nc re as e w or k l oa d b y

C h an g in g m a ch i ne r y l a you t

I m p a rt i n g m u l ti - sk i l l t r a i n in g

P r ov id i ng h i gh e r a s s ig n me n ts

Incorporating additional duties

E na bl in g t ea m w or k

SITRA News

March - April 2015

2


4/23

Mill Totalspindles

P ro du c t - m i x Avg.count

Operativese m p lo y ed / d a y

Anticipated

re d uc t i o n o f operatives/day

Savingsin wages

( Rs i nlakhs/

year)

StateMill

actual

Suggested

by SITRA

A 36,000

100 %

P o ly e st e r a n dP/ V d y ed yarns

23s

1338

1104

234

245

Rajasthan

B

61,000

1 0 0 % c o tt o n

c o mb e d y a rns38s

570

502

68

120

Maharashtra

C

3,200rotors

1 0 0 % c o tt o nc a rd e d y a rn s

9s

144

114

30

30

MadhyaPradesh

D

55,000

1 0 0 % c o tt o nc o mb e d y a rns

40s

596

540

56

100

Maharashtra

E

16,000

1 0 0 % c o tt o n

c o mb e d y a rns40s

189

166

23

26

Ta m il N a d u

F 25,0001 0 0 % c o tt o ncarded/combed yarns

25s 395 323 72 88 Gujarat

Table 1 S I T RA 's c o n s ult a nc y s e r vic e o p t imis a t ion o f la b o ur r e qu ir eme n t

Table 2 Category-wise anticipated reduction in operatives

N o . o f o p e r a tiv e s / d a y

Mill

Productionoperatives

Maintenanceoperatives

Non-productionoperatives

Total operatives

Millactual Suggested




A

B

C

DE

F

1165

470

110

371162

302

959

410

82

344140

241

76

77

14

6427

57

63

71

12

5426

46

97

23

20

161*

36

82

21

20

142*

36

1338

570

144

596189

395

1104

502

114

540166

323

Total 2580 2176 315 272 337 301 3232 2749

' *' S tu d y d id n ot c ov er N PO s.

M i ll s w h ic h a r e i nt er e st ed t o a v ai l t h e a bo v e s e rv i ce c a n c on ta c t

SITRA.

D.ShanmuganandamLiaison and Consultation Division

SITRA News

March - April 2015

3


5/23

TECHNICAL NOTEs

1 . P ro pe rt ie s o f g re y y ar n & s ize d ya rn - A c as e s tu dy

S iz ing o f s in g le y a rn is c a r rie d o u t t o imp ro v e y a rn t e n ac it y a n d y ar n

a b ra s io n. I n a w e av in g f a ct o r y, 4 0s C y a rn wa s s ize d to a le v el o f 1 2 % p ic k u p .

T h e p ro p er t ie s o f t h e g re y y ar n & s i ze d y ar n a re g i ve n i n t h e f ol l ow i ng t a bl e :

(Ta b le 1 )

Yarn Type

SYS

(g)

Elongation

(%)

CV of SYS

(%)

Grey 300 4.8 10.7

Siz ed 370 3.6 11.2

Table 1 P ro p er t ie s o f g re y & s i ze d y ar n

S YS - S ing l e Ya r n Str eng th

T h e w e av i ng fa c to r y w an t s t o kn o w w h et h er th e C V o f si n gl e y ar n

strength has really increased after sizing?

S in gl e y ar n st re ng th a ss es sm en t w as c ar ri ed o ut b as ed o n 10 0

tests.Wh e ne v e r t w o C V v a lue s a r e t o b e c o mp ar e d, 'F ' te s t is t o b e u s e d.

Where,

S D = S ta n da rd de v ia ti o n o f s i ng l e y ar n s tr en gt h - Sa m pl e 11S D = S t an d a rd d e v iat io n o f s in g le y a rn s t re n g th - S a mp le 22

S D & S D m us t b e c ho se n i n s uc h a w ay t ha t F i s a lw ay s g re at er th an 1. 0.1 2

Hence,

F

=

SD12

SD22

SD1

=

Mean1 x CV 1

n1

n2

=

37 0 x 11.2

100= 4 1. 44

SD 2 =Mean 2

x CV2 =

3 0 0 x 10.7

100= 32.1

4SITRA News

March - April 2015


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(32.1)=

F =

(41.44)2

2

1717.27

1030.41= 1.66

T hi s c al cu la te d va lu e o f F ( 1. 66 ) i s t o be c om pa re d wi th t h e v al uegiven in 'F' table for 99 ( & 99 ( Degrees of

Freedom.

A c o nd e n s ed v er s ion o f 'F' t a ble is g iv en b e low (Ta b le 2 )

Table 2 'F ' va lu e s f o r d if fe r en t d e g re e s o f fr e ed o m (

n - 1= 10 0- 1) n - 1= 10 0- 1)1 2

a=0.05)

df2

df1

10 20 30 40 60 80 100 120

10 2.98 2.77 2.70 2.66 2.62 2.60 2.59 2.58

20 2.35 2.12 2.04 1.99 1.95 1.93 1.91 1.90

30 2.16 1.93 1.84 1.79 1.74 1.72 1.70 1.68

40 2.08 1.84 1.74 1.69 1.64 1.61 1.59 1.58

60 1.99 1.75 1.65 1.59 1.53 1.50 1.48 1.47

80 1.95 1.70 1.60 1.54 1.48 1.45 1.43 1.41100 1.93 1.68 1.57 1.52 1.45 1.42 1.39 1.38

120 1.91 1.66 1.55 1.50 1.43 1.40 1.37 1.35

and are the de gree s of f re edom of the two yarn samples under

investigation.

df df 1 2

D r. K. P. C h e lla m a ni

Spinning Division

SITRA News

March - April 2015

5

T h e v al u e g i ve n i n 'F ' ta b le f or 9 9 & 9 9 D e gr ee s o f f re e do m = 1 . 39

S in ce t he c al cu la te d v al ue o f ' F' (1 .6 6) i s h ig he r t ha n t he v al ue o f F ( 1. 39 )

g i ve n i n t h e ' F ' t ab l e, i t i s c o nc l ud e d t h at a f te r s i zi n g , t h e C V o f s i ng l e y ar nstrength has significantly increased.


7/23

2 . Ef fe ct o f O li go me rs i n s pi nn in g a nd we t p ro ce ss in g

A mo ng t he s y n th e tic f ib re s , p o lye s te r is w id e ly u s e d g lo b ally, d ue

t o it s h ig h st r en g t h, e xc e llen t s t re t ch r ec o ve r y, d imen s io na l s ta b ility,r es il i en cy a nd i ts s ui ta bi li ty t o b le nd w it h n at ura l f ib re s. I ns pi te o f i ts

superior functional properties, formation of oligomer or cyclic trimers is one

o f t he m aj or pro bl em s, in ad di ti on to it s l ow mo is tu re c on te nt ,

hydrophobicity, difficulties encountered during dyeing, pilling, etc.

P o lye s te r f ibr e s c o nt a in a c e r ta in p ro p o r tio n o f lo w mo le c ula r

w ei gh t c om po ne nt s c al le d O li go me rs t ha t a re e xp ec te d to mi gra te o ut o f

t h e ma te r ial d ur in g d y ein g . O lig o me rs a r e s ma ll c h a in le n gt h of p oly e st e r

m ad e u p of t wo o r mo re m ol ec ul es o f ba si c e thy le ne t ere ph th al ate i .e .

d i me r o r t r im e r. O l ig o me rs t o t h e e xt e nt o f a p pr ox i ma te l y 1 . 5% t o 3 . 5%

(o .w. f ) a r e p r od u c e d a s a s id e r e ac t io n d u r in g t h e ma n u fa c t ur e o f p o lye s te r

f i br es . O w in g t o it s s m al l er c h ai n l en gt h , th e o l i go m ers a re i n t he f or m o f a

f in e p ow de r wh ic h ar e e nt ra pp ed i n b as i c p ol ym er a nd m ig ra te t o th e

s u rf ac e d u ri n g h i gh te m pe ra t ure p o ly es te r d ye i ng . H i gh e r t h e d e pt h o f

s ha de d ye d, m ore i s t he d is pl ac em en t o f O li go me r t o t he f ib re s ur fa ce .

O l ig o me rs a re a t f i rs t, f i n el y d i sp e rs e d i n t h e d ye i ng l i q uo r a t 1 2 5 - 1 3 0 C b u t

agglomerate and deposit on the dyeing equipment as the dye bath isco ol ed . T he de po si ts are co lo ur le ss a nd in sol ub le i n wa te r, bu t may b e

c o lo u re d b y a b so r be d d ye . T h ey a re l i ab l e t o c a us e t ro u bl e w i th s mo o th or

t ex t ur i ze d c on ti n uo u s f i la m en t f i br es . I n t he d ye i ng o f w ou n d p a ck ag e s,

oligomer precipitation hinder the liquor circulation to such an extent that

part of the dye is filtered off and the oligomers impair the surface

s m oo t hn e ss o f t he f i br es , t hu s c a us i ng t ro u bl e i n f ur t he r p ro c es s in g a nd

a ls o imp a irs t h e c o lo ur f a s tn e s s t o r u b b ing o f t h e f in is he d s u b s tr a te .

I nn um era bl e p ro bl em s c an cr op up du e t o o li go me r d ep os it io n.

F o llo w in g a r e s o me o f t h e f r eq u e nt ly e n c ou n te r ed p r ob le ms:

N e ga t iv e i n fl u en c e t o r u nn i ng p ro p er t ie s d u ri n g s p in n in g a n d

winding.Abrasion on moving parts leading to more wear and tear of critical

components.D e p os it io n like s c a les o n t h e s id e s o f t h e ma c hin e , w h it ish po w de r

on the yarn packages.D e po s it s o n m a ch i ne g u id e s a t w i nd i ng or tw i st i ng ca u si n g h i gh

t en s io n s a n d in c re a se d f ri c ti o n o n th e y ar n , le a di n g to p o or

package build up and end breaks.

6SITRA News

March - April 2015


8/23

weaving operations.F re q ue n t c l ea n in g o f dy ei n g an d w in d in g m ac h in e s i s r eq u ir ed .

Fa il ur e t o c ar ry o ut t he c le an in g a ct iv it y c an r es ul t i n i nc re as eddown time and lower efficiency, leading to high energy cost.L i qu o r f l ow i s r ed u ce d b e ca u se p a ck ag e s p in d le p e rf or at i on s g et

blocked during wet processing.F ilt ra t io n e ff ec t (in s ide - o u t v a ria t io n ) d u e t o b u ild up o f o lig o mer s

in package.I mp ro p e r p u mp p re s s u re d u e t o o lig o mer d e p o s its o n p u mp .Oligomer presence can cause nucleation and growth of dye crystals

o r ag gl om er at io n of dy e pa rt ic le s re su lt in g i n dy e s po ts ,

unlevelness and poor fastness.S o iling o f y a rn p ac kag e c a r rie r a n d d y e in g ma c h in e r y t h ro u g h

oligomer deposition.W hi te p owd er y d ep os it s c au se d ul le ni ng o f s ha de s e sp ec ia ll y i n

d a r k s h a d es .Va r ia ti o n in r at e o f te m pe ra t ur e r i se d u e t o o li g om e r d e po s it s o n

heat exchanger and heating elements of the dyeing machines.

R em e di a l m ea s ur es f or o l i go m er d e po s it i on o n f ab r ic a n d m ac h in e ry

T he re i s n o s im pl e o r o ne st ep pro du ct s ol ut io n t o t he p ro bl em o f

o li go me r d ep os it s. A s er ie s o f p re ca ut io ns i s t o b e t ake n fo r c om pl et e

removal of oligome rs from polyester.

vT he d ye b at h af te r po ly es te r dy ei ng w it h di sp er se d ye s c an b e

d is ch ar ge d i n ho t c on di ti on to re mo ve t he o li go me rs , w hi ch

otherwise has the tendency to deposit back on the fibre on

c oo li ng . C are s ho ul d b e t ake n t o en su re t ha t d is ch ar ge p um p h as

t h e c a pa c it y t o w i th st an d h i gh t em p er at u re w h il e d ro p pi n g t h e

bath.

vA l ka l i s ta b le d i sp e rs e d ye s o b vi at e o l i go m er f o rm a ti o n. H o we ve r,

t h e l i m it ed c h o ic e i n t h e c l as s m a ke s i t a n u nv i ab l e o p ti o n.

vC o mbin a t ion o f a n io nic / n o n ion ic d is p er s ing a g e nt s h a vin g s t ro n g

d i sp e rs i ng ac t io n co nv er t o l i go m er pa r ti c le s t o a f i ne d i sp e rs i on

a n d a id it s r e mo v al f r o m t h e b a t h.

vL o ng c h a in q u a te r na r y s u rf ac ta n ts i n a l ka l in e m e di u m l e ac h o u t

o lig ome rs b y s a p on if ica t ion .

Du st in g o ccu rs du ri ng co ne re -wi nd ing a s we ll as k ni tt in g &

SITRA News

March - April 2015

7


9/23

v

a n d r ed u ci n g a g en ts c a n e ff ec t iv el y r em o ve o l i go m er de p os i ts

f ro m po ly es te r f ib re s a nd f un ct io n at i ts b es t w he n th e d ye b at h

t e mpe r at u re is n o t a llo we d t o d r o p b e low 8 5 C .

vC yc li c t ri me r ( et hy le ne t ere ph th al at e) i s i ns ol ub le i n wa te r.

S o lu b il i ty i s i n cr ea s ed i n th e p re s en c e o f ca r ri e rs / l e ve l in g ag e nt s

c o nt a inin g me t hy l s alic ya la te o r alky l p h t h ala te w h ich te n d t o

p r omo t e mig ra t io n o f t h e t r imer t o t he s u r fa c e o f t h e f ib re .

vA d i sp e rs i ng a g en t f ai r ly s ta b le t o h ig h t em p era t ur e w i ll p re ve n t

crystallization and deposition of oligomers.

vL on ge r th e d ye in g ti me , mo re o li go me rs w il l b e re le as ed . D ar k

s h ad e s m ay p ro d uc e m o re o l i go m er t h an p a le s h ad e s b e ca u se t h e

d y ein g t ime is lo n g er.

vC yc li c t ri me rs m ig ra te f ro m p ol ye st er fi br e d ur in g d ye in g a nd

s t ea m s et t in g a nd t o so me le s s e r e x te n t , d u r ing d r y h e a t s e tt in g .

T he a mo un t o f o l ig om er m i gra ti ng t o t h e f ib re s ur fa ce i nc re as es

w it h in cr ea se i n te mp er at ur e a nd p ro lo n ge d d ye in g ti me ,

t he re fo re t he l i be ra ti on o f o li go me rs d ur in g d ye in g c an b e

m in im ize d b y l ow er in g t he d ye in g t em pe ra tu re f ro m 1 30 C t o

1 2 0 C a n d b y u s in g t h e s h o r te s t p o s s ible d y e in g t ime .

In general, no serious pretreatments are carried on polyester yarns

a n d fa b r ics . H o we v er, w h e n o lig o me r d e p os it s a r e e x pe r ie nc e d , a s c ou r in g

t r ea t men t b e fo r e d y e in g c a n r e mo v e s ig n ific a nt a mo un t o f o lig o me rs .

B le n ds o f a n io nic / n o n ion ic s u r fa c t an t s in c o mb in a tio n w it h a lka li

- S. Ko ws al ya a nd S . S iv aku ma r Te x tile C h e mis t r y D iv is io n

8SITRA News

March - April 2015


10/23

3 . C ot ton St i c ki n e ss i ss ue s a nd s ol ut io ns Part 4 -

T he n or ma l m et ho d o f a ss es si ng th e s ti ck i ne ss o f c ott on is b yp r oc e s s in g a s ma ll s a mp le o f co t t on a nd a ss e s s ing t he la p p ing t en d e n cy a t

v ar i ou s s ta g es o f p ro c es s in g . I n re c en t t i me s , du e t o gr ow i ng d em a nd f or

s up er io r q ua li ty ya rn s, a n ee d h as a ri se n t o a ss es s t he p er fo rm an ce o f

cotton with particular reference to its sticking tendency beforehand in order

t o av oi d ti me d el ay s i n in it ia ti ng re me di al m ea su re s a t t he p re pa ra to ry

s t ag e s o f th e s p in nin g pr o ce s s . Tw o in s t ru me nt a l e v alu a t io n me t ho d s a r e

a va i la b le t o a s se s s s t ic k in e ss o f c o tt o n a nd t h e y a re b r ie f ly d i sc u ss e d i n t h is

note.

(a ) L i n t ron i c ' s F CT

L in tro ni c' s F CT ( F ib re C on ta mi na ti on Te st er ) i s a n i ns tr um en t

s ui ta bl e f or a s se ss in g t he s ti ck in es s o f co tt on ( Fi gu re 1 ). I n FC T, c ot to n

s ti ck in es s i s a ss es se d w it ho ut u si ng c he mi ca ls o r h ea t b ut b y u si ng s ig na l

p r oc e s s in g t e c hn iq u es . A b r ie f d e sc r ipt io n o f t h e w o r kin g o f t h e in s tr u men t

is given below.

Methods to assess stickiness of cotton

A b ou t 4 g ra m s o f t he m a te ri a l ( to b e t es te d ) i s t o b e c o nv er te d i nt o

a s l i ve r o f ab o ut 3 0 c m lo n g. T h is s l iv er i s t h en p ut o n th e fe e de r be l t a n d f ed

t o t he o pe ni ng d ev ic e o f t he F CT i ns tr um en t. T he c ott on i s o pe ne d a nd

p r oc e s s ed t o a w e b , wh ic h p as s e s in f r on t o f a C C D -c a me ra , w h ich c h e c ks f o r

n e p s , t r as h a nd s e ed c oa t f r ag me n ts . F o r n e p s , t r as h a nd s e ed c oa t

f ra g me nt s , a b o u t 1 0 0 p ic t ur e s a r e t a ke n a n d in d ivid u a lly a n a lys e d . B e c a us e

o f t he u se o f 2 d im en si on al op ti ca l sy st em in FC T, it i s c la im ed to bep os si bl e t o m e as ur e a lm os t e ve ry g eo me tr ic p ro pe rt y o f t h e p ar ti cl es . T he

w e b is t h e n c r u sh e d b e t we e n t w o s t ee l cy lin de r s. I f th e r e is a n y s t icky p o in t

Figure 1

Fibre contamination tester

SITRA News

March - April 2015

9


11/23

in the web, it will stick to the cylinder. The surface of the cylinder is

c ont in uo us ly c he cke d fo r t he n um be r o f st ic ky p oi nt s a nd c le an ed

a ft er wa rd s. F or s ti ck in es s, t he w ho le s am pl e i s m ea su re d a nd t he t ota l

n u mb e r of s t i ck y p o in t s g i ve a n i n di c at i on o f s t ic k in e ss o f t h e s a mp l e u n de r

consideration.

(b) SCT Thermodetector from Shirley Developments Ltd, (SDL)

S DL 's S CT Th er mo de te ct or i s a no th er i ns tr um en t t o a ss es s t he

p ro p en s it y o f a c ot to n sa m pl e t o st i ck i ne s s d u ri n g p ro c es s in g ( Fi g ur e 2 ) . A

b r ie f d es c r ipt io n o f t h e in s tr u men t is g iv en b e lo w :

A 2. 5 g we b o f c ott on is p re pa re d b y a m an ua l o r m ec ha ni ca l

o p e n er. T h e w e b is t h e n s a n d wic h e d b e t we e n t w o a lu miniu m sh e e ts a n d

p la ce d in t he t he rm od ete ct or. P re ss ure a nd h ea t a re a pp li ed fo r te n

s e co n ds . A se c on d p re s su re p h as e t h en fo l lo ws a t a m bi e nt t e mp e ra t ur e t o

f ix th e s ti ck y p oi nt s t o t he s he et s. S ti ck in es s i s t he n a ss es se d b y c ou nt in g

t h e n u mbe r o f s t icky p o in ts o n t he a lu min iu m sh e e t s.

Figure 2

Sticky cotton thermodetector

10SITRA News

March - April 2015

O p ti m al p e rf or m an c e i s o b ta i ne d w he n m ea s ur em e nt s a re c a rr i ed o u t a t arelative humidity between 55% and 65%.

M e as u res t o p roc es s s t i ck y c ot ton s

T h er e a re d i ffe re n t m et h od s a va i la b le f or p ro c es s in g s t ic k y c o tt o ns .

T he y a re ( i) P ro ce ss in g t he c ott on s w it h s ti ck y n at ure a t r el at iv e h um id it y

below 50%, (ii) Reducing the speed of carding and drawing machines, (iii)

M ix ing t he s t o ck (w it h s t ickin g t e n de n c y ) w it h n o n - st ic ky c o tt o n s o n s ma ll

p r op o r tio n s a n d th e n p ro c e s sin g t he m a nd (iv ) Ap p lica t io n o f a h yd r o-c a rb o n p lu s s u rf ac ta n t a d di t iv es o r m i cr o- o rg an i sm s t o t he s ti c ky c o tt o n i n

t h e o p e nin g lin e a n d t h en p r oc e s s ing t h e s a me.


12/23

To b e c o nt in u ed . .

K.P.Chellamani & M.K.Vittopa

Spinning Division

PROJECTS

A n i nv es ti ga ti on o n t he q u al it y a tt ri bu te s o f C o mp ac t D ou bl ed &

T F O D ou bl e d y arn s

S IT RA ha s c on du ct ed a n um be r o f s tu di es t o a ss es s t he v ar io us

f a ce t s o f y a rn & f a br ic c h a ra c t er is tic s ma d e u s in g c o mp ac t s p in nin g s y st e m.

H owe ve r, d eta il s p er ta in in g to t he q ua li ty a tt ri bu te s o f co mp ac t s pu n

d o u b le d y a r n s a n d t h e ir r e la t iv e a d va n ta g e s o v er c o nv e n tio n a l T F O d o u ble d

y ar n s a re s c an ty i n l i te ra t ur e. T h e a i m of t h i s s tu d y w as t o g en e ra te r el e va n t

information in this area.

2 /6 0 N e a nd 2 / 80 N e y ar ns w ere p ro du ce d i n co mp ac t d ou bl i ng &

T FO d ou bl i ng m a ch in es . T he se y ar ns w ere m ad e u si ng v i sc os e f ib re s o f 1 .2

D e ni e r x 3 8 m m ( Cu t l e ng th ) . T h e t w is t v al u es m a in ta i ne d i n d o ub l ed y ar n sa r e g iv en in Ta b le 1 .

SITRA News

March - April 2015

11

T h e l a st m e nt i on e d m e th o d i s f ou n d t o b e f ar su p er i or. T h er e i s a l so

a n a d de d a d va n ta g e o f r ed u ct i on in th e l e ve l of fl y l i be ra t io n d u ri n g

p ro ce ss in g w he n th is m et ho d i s e mp lo yed . Th e m ech an is m of the

f u nc t io n in g o f t h e m i xi n g a d di t i ve s i s a s f ol l ow s:

Wh i le u s in g m i c ro - or ga n is m s, t h e y d i ss o lv e t h e h i gh c o nc e nt ra t io n

of sugar and spread them uniformly on cotton

W hi l e u si ng h yd ro -c ar bo n a dd it iv es , t he y c on ti nu ou sl y c oa t t he

d r af t in g ro lls w it h a t h in f ilm o f lu b r ic a nt w h ic h pr e ve n t s a d h e sio n o f

s t icky s u b st a nc e s o n t he r o lle rs .


13/23

A ll t he yarn s am pl es w ere te ste d fo r hai ri nes s ( S3 va lu e u si ng

zweigle hairiness tester), Imperfections using Uster Tester (UT5) weak spotsusing tensojet, and abrasion values using yarn abrasion tester. In addition,

t he y ar n sa mp le s w ere c onv er te d in to k ni tt ed fa br ic s u si ng FA K s am pl e

k n itt e r. T h e kn itt e d f a br ic s a mple s w e re d y ed us in g r e ac t ive d y e s in me d ium

s ha de s. T he d ye d fa br ic s am pl es m ad e u si ng c om pa ct d ou bl ed a nd T FO

doubled yarns were analysed for colour strength using spectrophotometer.

I n t h e p re s en t s t ud y, w e ak s p ot i n y ar n h as b e en d e fi n ed a s s p ot s i n

t h e y ar n wi t h b re a ki n g s tr en gt h va l ue l o we r th a n 5 0 % o f th e a ve ra g e

b re ak i ng s tr en gt h o f y ar n. We ak s po ts a re e st im at ed u si ng Te ns oj etin s tr u men t a n d on e la kh m. o f ya r n c o n st it u te s a s a mp le .

Q u a li t y at t rib u t es of Com p a ct D ou b le d & T F O D ou b le d ya rns

1. Yarn hairiness

H a ir i ne s s v al u es o f C o m pa c t D o ub l ed & T F O D o ub l ed v i s c os e y ar n s

( 2 /6 0 s & 2 / 80 s ) a re s h ow n i n F i gu re 1 .

Figure 1 Ha i ri n es s v al u e o f C o mp a ct D o ub l ed & T F O D o ub l ed y ar n

Table 1 Tu r ns / I n ch m a in ta i ne d i n c o mp a ct d o ub l ed & T FO d o ub l ed y ar n s

Sl.No. Yarn details Tw is t d ir ec t io n Tu r n s / I n ch (T P I )

1 2/60s Compact doubled

Z 19.74

2 2/60s TFO doubled Z/S 20.09

3 2/80s Compact doubled Z 21.13

4 2/80s TFO doubled Z/S 21.90

Hairs/100m(S3Value)

12SITRA News

March - April 2015


14/23

H a ir i ne s s v al u es o f C o m p ac t D o ub l ed y ar n s a re l o we r a s c o mp a re d

t o T F O D o ub l ed ya r ns b y a b ou t 7 0 % i n 2/ 6 0s & a b ou t 6 5 % i n 2/ 8 0s .

2 . Ya rn i mp er fe ct io ns a nd w ea k sp ot s

Ya rn s i mp er fe ct io ns ( th in p la ce s, t hi ck p la ce s a nd n ep s) w ere

e st i ma te d u s in g U T 5 I n st r um e nt a t n o rm a l s e ns i ti v it y l e ve l s ( t hi n p l ac e s

5 0 %, t h ic k p l ac e s + 5 0% a n d N e ps + 2 00 % ). S i mi l ar l y w e ak s p ot s i n y ar n s ( N o.

o f p l ac e s i n o n e l a kh m e t re o f y ar n s w e re b re a ki n g s tr en gt h v al u es o f l o we r

t h a n5 0 % o f t h e a ve r ag e b r ea kin g s t re n gt h of ya r n ) w e re a s s e ss e d u s in g

Tensojet tensile tester.

To t al y ar n imp e r fe c t ion s a n d we a k s p o t s in C o mp a c t D o u ble d an d

T F O D o ub l ed y a rn s a re i l l us tr at ed i n F i g u re 2 .

Figure 2 I m pe r fe c ti o ns a n d We a k s p ot s i n C o mp a ct D o ub l ed a n d

T F O D o u b le d ya r n s

I mp e rf ec t io ns a r e lo w er in T F O D o u ble d ya r n s in co mp a ris o n w it h

C o mp a ct D o ub l ed y ar n s b y 2 5 % t o 6 0 %. S i mi l ar l y w e ak s p ot s a re a l so l o we r

b y a s m uc h as 7 0% t o 7 5% i n TF O D ou bl ed ya rn s. T hi s m ay b e d ue t o th e fa ct

t ha t i n Co mp ac t D ou bl in g (W hi ch i s c ar ri ed o ut i n ri ng f ra me i ts el f wi th

a pp ro pr ia te C om pa ct D ou bl in g se t- up ), th e p ro ce ss o f Do ub li ng i s n ot a s

p er fe ct a nd un ifo rm as i n t he c as e o f T FO D ou bl i ng . I n v ie w o f t he h ig he r

in c ide n c e o f w e a k s p o t s, th e p e r fo r man c e o f c o mpa c t d o u b le d y a rn s in hig h

s p e e d lo o ms ma y b e e x pe c t ed t o b e r e la t ive ly in fe r io r.

YarnImperfe

ctions/Km

No.

ofWeakSp

ots/Lakhm

SITRA News

March - April 2015

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15/23

65.95 65.55

239.9

263.05

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

2/60s 2/80s

NO.ofstrokestobreakthespecimen

Ya r n C o un t ( N e)

C o m pa c t D o u b le d

T FO D o ub l e d

3. Yarn abrasion

A b ra s io n r e s is t an c e o f y a rn is o f g r ea t imp o rt a nc e , s in c e it n o t o n ly

a ff ec t s t h e p ro c es s in g p e rf or m an c e i n p o st - sp i nn i ng o p e ra t io n s, b u t a l sop l ay s a s i gn i fi c an t r ol e i n t h e q u al i ty o f e n d p r o du c t.

A bra si on re si st an ce v al ue s o f C om pa ct D ou bl ed & T FO D ou bl ed

y ar n s ( 2 /6 0 s & 2 / 80 s V i sc o se ) a re s h ow n i n F i gu re 3 .

Figure 3 A b r as i on r e si s ta n ce o f C o mp a ct D o ub l ed & T F O

Doubled yarns

A bra si on re si sta nc es o f Co mp ac t D ou bl ed ya rn s a re l owe r as

c o mp a re d t o th a t o f T FO D o ub l ed y a rn s b y a s m u ch a s 7 5 %. T h is a ga i n br i ng s

fo rt h t he po in t t hat i n co mpa ct do ubl in g, th e p ro ce ss i s n ot as eve n a nd

p e rf ec t a s i n t h e c as e o f T F O D o ub l in g .

4. Dyeing behaviour

T he fa br ic s am pl es m ad e o ut o f C om pa ct D ou bl ed & T FO D ou bl ed

y ar ns w ere d ye d u si ng re ac ti ve d ye s i n m ed iu m s ha de s. T he d ye d f ab ri c

s a mp le s w e re a n a lys e d fo r c o lo ur s t re n gt h u s in g s pe c t ro p h o to me te r t o

k no w w hi ch fa br ic s am pl e h as b et te r d ye a bs or pt io n i n a g iv en d ye b at h.

T h e c o lo ur st r en g t h v a lue s o f th e f a br ic s a mp le s a r e s h o wn in F ig u re 4 .

14SITRA News

March - April 2015


16/23

100 100

92.54

94.96

88

90

92

94

96

98

100

102

2/60s 2/80s

Colourstrength

va

lue

Yarn Count (Ne)

Compact Doubled

TFO Doubled

Figure 4. C o lo u r s tr en gt h v a lu e s o f f a br i c s a mp l es m a de u s in g C o m pa c t

D o ub l ed & T F O D o ub l ed y ar n s.

I t i s e v id e nt f ro m t he f i gu re t h at c o lo u r s t re n gt h va l ue s o f co m pa c t

d ou bl ed m ate ri al s a re s ig ni fi ca nt ly b ett er a s c om pa re d to t ha t o f TF O

D ou bl ed m at er ia ls . T hi s m ay b e d ue t o re la ti ve ly n on -u ni fo rm p ac ki ng o f

c o mpa c t d o u b le d y a rn s in c o mp ar is o n w it h T F O D o u ble d y a rn s . I n ma te r ia ls

with non-uniform packing, dye penetration may be expected to be relatively

mo re a n d h e n ce t h e c o lo ur s t re n g th v a lu e s.

K.P.Chellamani & M.K.Vittopa

Spinning Division

SITRA News

March - April 2015

15


17/23

1. Work assignment study 1

2. Technical study 1

3. Viscosity cup fabrication 1

4. Weft yarn performance study in Air-jet looms 1

5. Study of high weft yarn breakages in Air-jet looms 2

6. ACS for humidification plants & compressors 3

7. Energy audit 1

8. Consultancy on process standardisation 1

9 . Te ch ni ca l t ro ub le sh oo ti ng p oo r a bs or be nc y i n

printed fabrics 1

1 0 . Te c hn i ca l c on s ul t an c y I m pr ov i ng c ol o ur f as tn e ss

of yarn dyed materials 1

B e s ide s t h e a b o ve c o n su lt an c y s t u die s , SI T R A a ls o of fe r ed s o lut io n s

t o 4 a dh oc p ro bl em s i n t he a re a o f s pi nn in g a nd en gi ne er in g. 1 96i ns tr um en ts w ere c al ib ra te d, 1 i ns tr um en t w as c er ti fi ed an d 2 90

a c c es s o r y s a mple s w e re t e st e d .

S.no. Type of study No. of mills

C on su l t an c y s e rvi c e s of fe red b y S IT RA

d u ri n g M ar ch - A p ri l 2 0 15

ws

STAFF

M e et i n gs a tt e n de d

Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, attended the following meetings :

- F ou rt h m ee t in g of t he B o ar d o f Te xt i l e S e ct or S ki l l Co u nc i l, M um b ai o n

16th March, 2015.

- Te nt h m ee ti ng of th e P ro je ct A pp ra is al & M on it or in g C om mi tt ee(PA M C ) u n d e r R &D s c h eme o f M oT, u n de r t he C h a irma n sh ip o f t h e

Textile Commissi oner, Mumbai on 20th March 2015.

16SITRA News

March - April 2015


18/23

- S ec on d m ee ti ng of th e C ot to n A dv is or y B oa rd (C AB ) fo r t he c ot to n

s e a s on 2 0 1 4 -1 5 , u n de r t h e C h a ir ma n sh ip o f S mt . Kira n S o n i G up t a ,

I.A.S., Textile Commissioner, Mumbai on 31st March 2015.

- M ee t in g of C oE s u n de r co m po n en t - I II o f n e w R es e ar ch D ev el o pm e nt

Scheme of MoT, Govt. of India, Mumbai, on 31st March 2015.

M r. K .B al as ub ra ma ni ya n, A ss is ta nt D ir ec to r , SITRA, attended Projectt h

P r op o s a l me e t in g a t C o ir B o a rd , E r n aku lam o n 2 7 M a rc h 2 0 1 5.

D r. K. S aj j a n R a o, R e se a r ch A s s oc ia te, attended the empowered committee

m e et i ng o n I n te g ra te d S k il l D e ve l op m en t S c he m e ( I SD S) , o f M i ni s tr y o f

Textiles, Govt. of India, at Udyog Bhavan, New Delhi, on 30th March, 2015.

P ap e rs p u b l is h e d

S h an m ug an a nd a m. D, I mp a ct o f ri n g f ra m e u t il i sa t io n on f ib re t o ya r n

conversion cost, Asian Textile Journal, March 2015, pp. 69 - 72.

P ap e rs p re se n te d / L e c tu re s gi v e n

Dr.K.P.Chellamani d e live r ed a le c t ur e o n

1. Te ch no lo gy -a ss istan ce fro m R& D l abs a nd o the r in st it ut io ns i n

Te c h n olo g y S e le ct io n o r ga n is ed b y A mr it a U n ive r sit y, f o r t h e b u d din g

e nt re pre ne urs f ro m va ri ou s s tre am s o f en gi ne er in g in A mr itas t

U n ive r sit y, C o imb at o re o n 0 1 M a rc h 2 0 1 5 .

2 . I nt er p re ta t io n of t es t d a ta f ro m Mo d er n te s ti n g In st r um e nt s a n d

U s e fu ln es s o f cla s s ima t q u a n tu m in p ro d u c in g hig h qu a lit y y a rn s a t

t he Exe cu ti ve Tra in in g P ro gra m o rga ni ze d b y L ak sh mi Ma ch in erd

Wo r ks L td . , Co i mb a to re o n 2 3 M a rc h 2 0 15 .

Nomination

Dr.K.P.Chellamani has been nominated as a member of the Board of Studies

(BoS) in Textile Technology (TT) of Karpagam University, Coimbatore.

D r. K. S aj j a n R a o h a s b e en no m in a te d as a m e mb e r o f th e B o ar d o f St u di e s

(BoS) in Psychology at Bharathiar University, Coimbatore.

SITRA News

March - April 2015

17


19/23

Overseas Training

M r. S . S ou n d e rr a j, S c ie nt if ic O f f ice r, Kn itt in g D iv is io n , S IT R A ,

course on Advanced Training in Double Needle Bar Raschel Warp Knittingt h

M a c hin e f o r S p a ce r Fa b r ics a t Ka rl M ay e r A c a d emy, G e rma ny, f ro m 1 1 t ot h

2 4 A pr il , 2 01 5.

attended a

18SITRA News

March - April 2015

CONFERENCE

AND SEMINARS

O r ie nt at i on S e mi n ar o n " Pr o du c ti v it y a nd E n er gy M a na ge me nt i n

s p in n in g mi l ls " f or t h e m e mb e rs m i ll s o f So u th I n di a S p in n er s

Association (SISPA), Coimbatore

Wit h a n a im t o s e ns it ize d e c isio n ma ke r s in s p in n in g mills o n t h e imp o rt a n ce

o f P ro d u c tiv it y & E n e rg y M a n ag e me nt a n d th e s ig n ific a n ce o f imp le men t ing

them in Spinning Mills, SITRA organised an orientation seminar on 24thApril, 2015 at SITRA. The seminar was inaugurated by Dr. Prakash

V a s u d e v a n , D i r e c t o r , S I T R A a n d t h e s e s s i o n s h a n d l e d b y

M r. D. S ha nm ug an an da m, D ep ut y D ir ec to r an d Mr. M . M ut hu ku ma ra n,

H ea d, E ng in ee ri ng & E ne rg y M an ag em ent . T he t op ic s c ov er ed d u ri ng t h e

seminar included,

1 . A n o ve rv ie w o f th e v ar io us s er vi ce s o ffe re d b y S IT RA t o s pi nn in g

mills.

2 . A n i ns ig ht i nt o t he v ar io us p ro du ct iv it y i nd ic es a nd me an s fo r

achieving higher productivity.

3 . C o st c o nt ro l a nd v ar i ou s a s pe c ts i n sp i nn i ng m il l s a ffe c ti n g co st s .

4 . S c op e fo r e n er gy c o ns e rv at i on a n d r ol e o f e n er gy a u di t s i n e n er gy

savings.

A t o t al o f 6 7 ma n ag e me nt p e rs o n n el o f S I S PA me mb e r mills a tt e n de d

t h e s e min ar.


20/23

p r oc e s s ma c hin e r y a f fe c t ing p r o p e rt ie s o f y a r n s , e ff e ct o f y a r n p r o pe r t ies o n

p o st - sp i nn i ng p ro c es s es l i ke w e av i ng , w ar pi n g a n d k n it ti n g. Tw e nt y s i x

engineers attended the programme.

Training for Trainers

At t he r eq ue st o f a m em be r mi l l i n Ha ry an a, SI TR A co nd uc te d a s ix d ay

t ra in in g pr og ra m fo r 11 t ra in ers /t ra in in g i ns tr uc to rs . T he fo cu s o f t he

programme was to s ensi ti ze the participants on the various techni cal

a s p e ct s in vo lv ed in s p in nin g mills o n t op ic s like t h e p r es e n t t e xt ile s c e n na r io,

p ro d uc t io n a n d pr od u ct i vi t y, w o rk l o ad a n d w or k a s si g nm e nt , r i gh t w o rk

method; absenteesim, materials handling, house keeping etc.

SITRA News

March - April 2015

19

Tr ai n in g pr o gr am me on f u nc t io n al s k il l s i n t es ti n g a n d q u al i ty c on t ro l f or

l a b t e c hn i c i an s

A 3 d a y t ra in in g p r og r amme t o imp a r t f u n ct io n al s kills in t es t ing a n d q u a lity

control for lab technicians working in quality control / testing laboratories,m erc ha nd is ers , ex po rt ers , etc wa s h el d in Ma rc h 20 15 . Tw ent y f ive

p a r tic ip an t s a t te n d e d th is p r og r amme w h ich h a d b o th t h e o re t ica l s e s sio n

as well as practical demonstrations.

T h e t o p ics c o ve r ed d u r in g t h is p r og r amme w e re , I n t r od u c t io n a n d n e c e ss it y

o f t es t in g , S a mp l in g t ec h ni q ue s , C o lo u r t h eo r y & c o mp u te r c o lo u r

ma tc h in g , C o lo ur f a s t n es s , G e n e ra l q u a lit y p a ra me te r s a n d s p e c if ic t e st s f o r

fabrics and garments, Wash care label instructions, Eco parameters, etc.

Te c h n ic a l A ware n es s p rogra mm e.

A t t h e r e qu e s t o f a le a d ing ma c hin e r y ma n uf a ct u r er S I T RA c o n du c te d a o n e

day t ra ini ng prog ra mm e fo r t he ir se rv ice e ngi ne ers. Th e fo cus o f th e

p ro g ra m me w as t o se n si t i ze t h e p a rt i ci p an t s o n t op i cs l i ke y ar n p ro p er t ie s ,


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Pre-employment training and retraining programmes for textile workers

Tw o o u t -s t at io n mills a n d o n e lo c a l mill a va ile d S IT R A 's t r ain in g s er v ic es f o r

t h e ir wo r ke r s. S e ve n t y f iv e o p e ra t ive s in s p inn in g a nd r e elin g d e pa r t me n tsw ere t ra in ed i n 5 b at ch es . T he t ra in in g p ro gra mm es w ere c on du ct ed i n

Tamil, Kannada and Malayalam.

R I N G F R A ME P R OCE S S PA R A ME T E RS A N D FA B R I C CO M FO R T. PA R T - I LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRICSS.M.Ishtiaque, A.Das and A.K.Kundu,

Th e j o ur n a l o f t h e Te x ti l e In st i t u t e, 2 0 1 4, Vo l .1 05 , N o .3 , pp 3 4 8 3 5 5

I n th is p ap er, t he a ut ho rs h av e e la bo ra te d th e re su lt s o f a st ud yd e al i ng w i t h t h e i n fl u en c e o f r i n g f ra m e p ro c es s p a ra m et er s n a me l y, t w i st

m u lt i pl i er o f ya r n, s p in d le s p ee d a nd r i ng f ra m e d ra f t o n s o me o f t he y ar n

c h a ra c te r ist ic s . T h e r o vin g o f t hr e e d if fe r en t t y p e s o f y a rn s w e re p r e pa r ed t o

p ro d uc e y ar n s o f 2 0 t ex l i ne a r d e ns i ty w i th d i ffe re n t l e ve l s o f d ra f t. S e ve n

d if fe r en t t y p e s o f y a rn s w e re p r od u c e d f ro m t h e s e r o vin g s .

T h e l o w- st re s s m e ch a ni c al c h a ra c te r is t ic s o f w o ve n a n d k n i tt ed

f ab r ic s m a de o u t o f t h es e y ar n s h av e a l so be e n r ep o rt ed in th e p a pe r. Ya r n

packaging factor, which is directly related with the yarn diameter, has directimp a ct o n f a br ic c o mfo r t r e lat e d c h a ra c te r ist ic s . A ll t h e s t u d ie d r in g f r a me

p r oc e s s p a ra me te r s, i. e . y a rn t w is t , r in g f ra me d r af t a n d s p in dle s p e e d , h a ve

inverse effect on the yarn diameter, which means the yarn diameter reduces

w i th t h e i n cr ea s e i n o n e o f t h e p ro c es s p a ra m et er s b y ke e pi n g t h e o t he r t w o

p a ra me te r s c o n st a nt . T h e imp a ct o f t h e d r af t o n re d u c tio n in ya r n d ia met e r

i s f ou n d to b e h i gh e r as c o mp a re d t o o t he r t wo p ar am e te rs . A l l th e se r i ng

f ra me p r oc e s s p a ra me te r s h a ve s ig n if ic a nt imp a ct o n o t h e r y a rn p a r ame t er s

a l so . T h e i n cr ea s e i n y ar n t wi s t, s p in d le s p ee d a nd d ra f t r es u lt i n i n cr ea s e i nflexural rigidity, unevenness and imperfections of yarn and decrease in yarn

hairiness.

ABSTRACTS

20SITRA News

March - April 2015


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23/23

S li ve rs u se d in t he s tu dy w ere p ro du ce d on a Tr ut sc hl er DX 7 60b lo w ro o m an d ca rd in g ma c hin e . Vo u k S H L d r aw f ra me w it h s ix do u b ling sa n d s i x d ra f ts w a s u s ed fo r al l dr aw i ng pa s sa g es a n d N e 0 . 13 0 s l iv er s w e re

p r od u c ed . Tw o p a s s ag e s o f d r a win g s w e re a p p lied t o 1 0 0 % Te n c e l LF s live r s.Z i ns e r 66 8 r ov i ng f ra m e w as u s ed i n t he p ro d uc t io n o f ri n g an d co m pa c tyarns and Ne 1.03 rovings were produced. Ring yarns were spun on aS u es s en F i o m ax 1 0 0 0 r i ng s p i n ni n g m a ch i ne a n d c om p ac t y ar n s w e re s p uno n a S u es s en F i om ax E 1 c o mp a ct s p in n in g m ac h in e . F i na l ly, v o rt ex y ar n s

w e re s p u n o n a M u ra t a Vo r t ex S p in n in g 8 6 1 ma c hin e .

In this study, the authors selected hard sectioning method of crosss e ct i on pr ep a ra t io n b y u s in g P ol y V i ny l Ch l or i de t u be . T h e s l ic e d s a mp l es

w e re c a pt u re d b y u s in g a n i m ag e p ro c es s or. I n a d di t i on to f i br e p a ck i ng3

d e n sit y, d e n s ity (D, g / c m ) a n d d ia met e r (2 D, mm) v alu e s o f y a rn s , w h icha re t h ou g ht t o b e r el a te d t o fi b re p a ck i ng d e ns i ty, w e re a l so m e as u re d b yU st er Te st er 5 S 80 0. T he a ut ho rs r ep or te d t h at t he c om pa ct y ar ns h av e t he

highest packing density whi le vortex yarns have the lowest. Compacts pi nn in g sy st em e li mi na te s s pi nn in g tr ia ng le w it h ai r gu id e e le me ntm o un te d o n t he p e rf or at ed d r um . I n di v id u al f i b re s a re s tr ai g ht en e d an da r ra n g e d p a ra lle l w it h o n e a n o t he r b y me a ns o f ae r od y n a mic f o rc e . O n th e

o t he r h a nd , v o rt ex ya r ns a re k n ow n a s f i br e b u nd l es w i th wr ap p er fi b re sw ra p p ed o n p a ra lle l f ib re c o re . B a s ed o n t h e S E M ima g es t h e a u t h or s r e po r tt h at c o mp a ct y ar n h a d t h e m o st e ve n a n d c l os e s t ru c tu re . M o re o ve r, ri n gy a rn h a s h a ir y s t r uc t u re in c omp a ris o n w it h co mp a ct y a rn a n d v o r te x y a rn

h a d a s p e c if ic w r ap p e r st r u ct u re .

T h e a u th o rs a l so re p or t t h at t h e m e an va l ue s o f pa c ki n g d e ns i ty o fc o mp a ct y ar n s a re h i gh e r t h an t h at o f r in g ya r ns ( a pp ro x. b y 1 0 %) , p ai r wi s ec o mp ar is o n s h o ws t h a t d if fe r en c e s b e t we e n rin g an d c omp a ct y a rn s a r e n o ts ta t is ti c al l y s i gn i fi c an t f or p a ck i ng d e ns i ty v al u es . T h e a u th o rs a l so r ep o rt

t h at t h e p a ck i ng d e ns i ty a n d d e ns i ty v al u es fo r r i ng a n d c om p ac t y ar n s a res imilar an d h ig h er th a n t h a t o f vo r te x y a rn s b e c au s e o f dif fe r e nt s p in nin gt e ch n ol o gi e s. T h e d i am e te r v al u es f or r i ng a n d c o mp a ct y ar n s a re s i mi l arbut lower than vortex yarns.

Finall y the authors concl ude that, the compact yarns have the

h ig he st p ac ki ng d en si ty, w hi le v or tex y ar ns h av e t he l owe st . S ta ti st ic ala na ly si s s ho ws t ha t t he d if fe re nc es b et we en t he p ac ki ng d en si ti es o f ri nga n d c o mpa c t y a rn s a r e n o t s t at is tic a lly s ig n if ic a nt .

- S . Ko ws al ya a nd S . S iv aku ma r

Te x tile C h e mis t r y D iv isio n

22SITRA N

March - April 2015

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