15
Includes: Pattern and instructions for two sleeves that are compatible with the Pemberley Threads “Molly” Dress Pattern
Includes: Pattern and instructions for two sleeves
that are compatible with the Pemberley Threads
“Molly” Dress Pattern
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 2
About this pattern… The “Molly Sleeve Variations” pattern will help
you create brand-new 1830s gowns with two new
sleeve designs. “Sleeve #1” has three rows of ruching
near the shoulders, representing the styles of the
later 1830s when the upper sleeve began to collapse
from the big, ballooned shapes from the beginning
of the decade. Sleeve #2 is from the early 1830s,
with one row of ruching at the shoulder and a
dainty ruffle at the elbow, while still maintaining
the large gigot sleeve shape.
These sleeve pattern pieces will fit with not only
the “Molly” 1830s Gown pattern but also the
“Victoria” 1830s Evening Gown pattern. There are
two sizes in this pattern, one to fit 16” dolls such as
A Girl for All Time, and the other to fit 18” dolls
such as American Girl, however each doll’s body
can be slightly different so be sure to take
measurements and adjust as needed.
You may sell doll clothing made from this pattern in your
work-from-home business ONLY if you give Pemberley
Threads credit for the design. Absolutely no copying or
sharing this pattern, on the internet, in person or elsewhere.
Before you sew, be sure to read through all the instructions
and pre-wash all fabrics. Seam allowances are 1⁄4” unless
otherwise noted.
Please note: this pattern includes the sleeve pieces only.
To complete the gowns, you will need either the Pemberley
Threads “Molly” 1830s Gown pattern or the Pemberley
Threads “Victoria” 1830s Evening Gown pattern. These are
available for download in the Pemberley Threads Etsy shop
at www.pemberleythreads.etsy.com
A special thanks to my pattern testers: Ann Van Doren of
Ann Van Doren Designs, Carol Meadows, Elycia Yoder Good
of Past Elegance Co, Kel Pederson of Nuclear Needle Arts,
and Melodie Hess.
Happy sewing!
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 3
Materials
FOR SLEEVE #1 (both sizes):
Suggested fabrics: cotton, linen, silk
Notions: 1 yd 1/8” wide cotton twill tape (you could also use ribbon), two sets of hooks
and eyes, matching thread
Fabric: 1/3 yd main fabric
FOR SLEEVE #2 (both sizes):
Suggested fabrics: cotton, linen, silk
Notions: ½ yd 1/8” wide cotton twill tape (you could also use ribbon), ½ yd ribbon,
matching thread
Fabric: 1/3 yd main fabric
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 4
Sleeve #1 Instructions Instead of steps #6 through #8 in the “Molly” pattern, proceed as follows:
1. Trace the stitching lines for the sleeve ruching
(marked on the pattern piece by the bold dotted
lines) onto the wrong side of the sleeve piece.
There should be three stitching lines marked on
your sleeve.
Sew the gathering stitches at the top edge between
the dots. Sew two rows of gathering stitches on either
side of the sleeve ruching stitching lines, about 1/8”
away from the stitching line. Sew the gathering
stitches between the dots at the bottom edge that will
gather into the cuff.
2. Cut three pieces of the twill tape:
For the 16” doll size they should be 4 ½” long
For the 18” doll size they should be 5” long
Finger press ¼” under at each end of the twill tape pieces.
3. Pull the gathering stitches along the marked ruching lines
ONLY. Lay one of the twill tape pieces (with the folded ends
tucked under) on top of one of the lines. The end dots of the
ruching lines should meet up to the folded ends of the twill
tape. Sew the twill tape down the center from dot to dot.
Repeat for the other two lines. Take your time to adjust the
gathers as you go so they are as even as possible. Remove
gathering stitches.
For the 16” doll size the twill tape should measure 4” after the ends have been folded under and the tape is stitched down.
For the 18” doll size the twill tape should measure 4 ½” after the
ends have been folded under and the tape is stitched down.
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 5
4. Pull the gathering stitches at the top edge of
the sleeve and, with right sides together, sew
sleeve to the bodice. Remove gathering
stitches and press seam allowance towards
bodice.
Serge or zig-zag stitch the side edges of the
sleeve.
5. Press under ¼” along one long edge of cuff piece.
Finger press ¼” in on each side of the sleeve piece at the
bottom edge. Pull gathering stitches and, with right sides
together, sew the sleeve to the unpressed edge of cuff
between the cuff dots. Remove gathering stitches.
6. With right sides together, fold the cuff piece in half
lengthwise. Sew each end using the ¼” seam
allowance. Turn right side out and press. Hand
stitch the pressed edge of the cuff over the seam
allowance on the inside of the cuff. Press.
Proceed to steps #9 - #10 in the “Molly” pattern to attach the bodice lining to the bodice. Instead
of following step #11, proceed as follows:
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 6
7. With right sides together, sew the underarm
seam from waist to dot on sleeve. Press seam
open.
Sew hook and eye to the ends of the cuff. One
end should overlap the other by about ¼”.
Proceed to step #12 in the “Molly” pattern to finish the dress as the pattern states.
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 7
Sleeve #2 Instructions Instead of steps #6 through #8 in the “Molly” pattern, proceed as follows:
1. Trace the stitching line for the sleeve ruching
(marked on the pattern piece by the bold dotted
line) onto the wrong side of the upper sleeve
piece. There should be one stitching line
marked on your sleeve.
Sew the gathering stitches at the top edge between
the dots. Sew two rows of gathering stitches on
either side of the sleeve ruching stitching line,
about 1/8” away from the stitching line.
Turn up ¼” at bottom edge of upper sleeve and
lower sleeve pieces. Turn up ¼” again and sew.
Press. Serge or zig-zag stitch the side edges of
upper sleeve. Serge or zig-zag stitch the sides and
top edge of lower sleeve.
Note: the lower sleeve of the 16” doll size is shaped slightly different than the 18” doll size (pictured).
2. Fold the upper sleeve right sides together
along the foldline. Sew two rows of
gathering stitches along the folded edge
between the dots.
3. Pull gathering stitches and sew the folded
edge of upper sleeve to the right side of the
lower sleeve at the top edge, using the ¼”
seam allowance. Remove gathering stitches
and press seam allowance toward the top
edge.
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 8
8. Cut a piece of the twill tape. - For the 16” doll size it should be 4 ½” long, and for the 18” doll size it
should be 5” long.
Finger press ¼” under at each end of the twill tape piece.
9. Pull the gathering stitches along the marked ruching
line ONLY. Lay the twill tape piece (with the folded
ends tucked under) on top of the line. The end dots of
the ruching line should meet up to the folded ends of
the twill tape. Sew the twill tape down the center
from dot to dot. Take your time to adjust the gathers
as you go so they are as even as possible. Remove
gathering stitches.
For the 16” doll size the twill tape should measure 4”
after the ends have been folded under and the tape is
stitched down.
For the 18” doll size the twill tape should measure 4 ½”
after the ends have been folded under and the tape is stitched down.
4. Pull gathering stitches at top of sleeve and, with right
sides together, sew sleeve to bodice at shoulder.
Remove gathering stitches. Clip curves, press seam
toward bodice.
Proceed to steps #9 - #10 in the “Molly” pattern to attach the bodice lining to the bodice.
5. At step #11, sew underarm seam as you
would in the Molly pattern. Press seam
open.
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020 ~ PG. 9
6. Make two small bows out of the
ribbon and tack them to the ruching
seamline on the tops of each sleeve.
Proceed to step #12 in the “Molly” pattern to finish the dress as the pattern states
Gather to
4 1/2”
Moll
y Slee
ve Va
riatio
ns
18 in
ch d
oll#1
Slee
ve #
1Cu
t 2
1 in
1 in
2 cm
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
Moll
y Slee
ve V
ariat
ions
16 in
ch d
oll#3
Slee
ve #
1Cu
t 2
Gather to 4”
1 in
1 in
2 cm
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
Moll
y Slee
ve V
ariat
ions
16 in
ch d
oll#4
Slee
ve #
1 C
uffCu
t 2
Moll
y Slee
ve V
ariat
ions
18 in
ch d
oll#2
Slee
ve #
1 C
uffCu
t 2
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
1 in
1 in
2 cmM
olly Sleeve Variations 18 inch doll
#6Sleeve #2 Low
er SleeveCut 2
Molly Sleeve Variations 16 inch doll
#7Sleeve #2 Lower Sleeve
Cut 2
Gather to 4 1/2”
Molly Sleeve Variations 18 inch doll
#5aSleeve #2 Upper Sleeve
Cut 2
Ru�e fold line
Tape to #5b
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
1 in
1 in
2 cm
Molly Sleeve Variations 18 inch doll
#5b Tape
to #
5a
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
1 in
1 in
2 cm
Gather t
o 4” M
olly S
leeve
Var
iation
s 16
inch
doll
#6Sl
eeve
#2
Upp
er S
leev
eCu
t 2
Ru�
e fo
ld li
ne
© Elizabeth Gearhart 2020
1 in
1 in
2 cm
