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Indian Designer -Ritu Kumar
Presented By-Reema N
Indian Designer Ritu Kumar
ldquoThe pride of Indiardquo
Ritu Kumar is a person who needs no introduction infact her work speaks out for themselves A little girl from Amritsar who dreamed to be successful completed her basic academy in Amritsar as well as studied various things from various parts of her motherland With the ability of minute observation managed to gain interest in various artistics forms of India
Ritu began with hand block printers and two tables in a small village near
Calcutta and in the last 28 years Ritursquos team of dedicated workers have
progressed to produce some of the countryrsquos most exquisite garments and
accessories in cotton silk and leather These ranges embrace both traditional
textile crafts and the lineage of Indian design Over the centuries traditional
skills that had been lost have been revitalized and this has enabled the
craftsmen to continue working in their own environment Ritu has pioneered
the term lsquofashionrsquo in the Indian context and more importantly has
demonstrated that hand made products can be as profitable and even more
glamorous than those made by machine
Ritu Kumarrsquos forte is traditional Indian clothesthat draw heavily on the
textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains classics of their kind
But she evolved another style for European buyer Her Indo-West fusion
wear has all the trappings of block prints embroidery and craft inputs on a
western style
Ritu has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear evening
wear traditional Indian wear casual wear formal evening gowns of the
winning three Miss Indiarsquos for their participation in the International beauty
pageants (Miss Universe Miss World amp Miss Asia pacific respectively)
At least six of these to mention a few Manpreet Brar Ruchi Malhotra Rani
Jeyraj and recently Lara Dutta have won the award for the Most
Outstanding Evening Gown in International pageants
Ritu has opened many outlets all over India Style icons as late Princess
Diana have patronized her outfits Ritu Kumar also launched her book lsquo
Costumes and Textiles of Royal Indiarsquo which is published by Christiersquos
London
Personal DataBorn in Amritsar November 11 1944
Citizenship INDIAN
Married Two children
EducationPost Graduate Diploma in Museology 1967 Ashutosh Museum Calcutta
Associate in Arts 1966 Briarcliff College Westchester County NY USA
Bachelor of Education 1965 Lady Irwin College New Delhi
Bachelor of Science in Home Economics 1964 Lady Irwin College New
Delhi
Intermediate in Science 1960 Government College Amritsar
Matriculation 1958 Sacred Heart Convent Amritsar
Professional ExperienceDesigner of Textiles and Garments
R amp D in DesignLeather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques ndash The
collection ldquoKarabaghrdquo launched in 1994
Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs in
Maheshwar Andhra Pradesh Orissa and Tamil Nadu
Revival of tiedye in selected areas in Gujarat
Revival and change of end use of vegetable printingpainting and dyeing
techniques in Andhra Pradesh
Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore
Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional
uses to leather and textiles
Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern
techniques of screen-printing
Continuing work on established lines producing two collections a year for
national retail outlets in
Traditional Zardozi
Kashida
Handblock prints
Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand
Kantha
AssociationsMembership of Governing Executive bodies
All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles
Delhi Crafts Council Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya ldquoSave a Childrdquo Trust Calcutta Delhi
Board of Governors
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Boutique 1966Ritursquos first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road
New Delhi This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections
ldquoI believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its
relevance in the present context I also try and visualize whether a woman
would look elegant in my designs Itrsquos a lot of hard work But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
ldquoThe pride of Indiardquo
Ritu Kumar is a person who needs no introduction infact her work speaks out for themselves A little girl from Amritsar who dreamed to be successful completed her basic academy in Amritsar as well as studied various things from various parts of her motherland With the ability of minute observation managed to gain interest in various artistics forms of India
Ritu began with hand block printers and two tables in a small village near
Calcutta and in the last 28 years Ritursquos team of dedicated workers have
progressed to produce some of the countryrsquos most exquisite garments and
accessories in cotton silk and leather These ranges embrace both traditional
textile crafts and the lineage of Indian design Over the centuries traditional
skills that had been lost have been revitalized and this has enabled the
craftsmen to continue working in their own environment Ritu has pioneered
the term lsquofashionrsquo in the Indian context and more importantly has
demonstrated that hand made products can be as profitable and even more
glamorous than those made by machine
Ritu Kumarrsquos forte is traditional Indian clothesthat draw heavily on the
textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains classics of their kind
But she evolved another style for European buyer Her Indo-West fusion
wear has all the trappings of block prints embroidery and craft inputs on a
western style
Ritu has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear evening
wear traditional Indian wear casual wear formal evening gowns of the
winning three Miss Indiarsquos for their participation in the International beauty
pageants (Miss Universe Miss World amp Miss Asia pacific respectively)
At least six of these to mention a few Manpreet Brar Ruchi Malhotra Rani
Jeyraj and recently Lara Dutta have won the award for the Most
Outstanding Evening Gown in International pageants
Ritu has opened many outlets all over India Style icons as late Princess
Diana have patronized her outfits Ritu Kumar also launched her book lsquo
Costumes and Textiles of Royal Indiarsquo which is published by Christiersquos
London
Personal DataBorn in Amritsar November 11 1944
Citizenship INDIAN
Married Two children
EducationPost Graduate Diploma in Museology 1967 Ashutosh Museum Calcutta
Associate in Arts 1966 Briarcliff College Westchester County NY USA
Bachelor of Education 1965 Lady Irwin College New Delhi
Bachelor of Science in Home Economics 1964 Lady Irwin College New
Delhi
Intermediate in Science 1960 Government College Amritsar
Matriculation 1958 Sacred Heart Convent Amritsar
Professional ExperienceDesigner of Textiles and Garments
R amp D in DesignLeather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques ndash The
collection ldquoKarabaghrdquo launched in 1994
Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs in
Maheshwar Andhra Pradesh Orissa and Tamil Nadu
Revival of tiedye in selected areas in Gujarat
Revival and change of end use of vegetable printingpainting and dyeing
techniques in Andhra Pradesh
Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore
Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional
uses to leather and textiles
Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern
techniques of screen-printing
Continuing work on established lines producing two collections a year for
national retail outlets in
Traditional Zardozi
Kashida
Handblock prints
Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand
Kantha
AssociationsMembership of Governing Executive bodies
All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles
Delhi Crafts Council Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya ldquoSave a Childrdquo Trust Calcutta Delhi
Board of Governors
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Boutique 1966Ritursquos first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road
New Delhi This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections
ldquoI believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its
relevance in the present context I also try and visualize whether a woman
would look elegant in my designs Itrsquos a lot of hard work But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Ritu Kumarrsquos forte is traditional Indian clothesthat draw heavily on the
textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains classics of their kind
But she evolved another style for European buyer Her Indo-West fusion
wear has all the trappings of block prints embroidery and craft inputs on a
western style
Ritu has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear evening
wear traditional Indian wear casual wear formal evening gowns of the
winning three Miss Indiarsquos for their participation in the International beauty
pageants (Miss Universe Miss World amp Miss Asia pacific respectively)
At least six of these to mention a few Manpreet Brar Ruchi Malhotra Rani
Jeyraj and recently Lara Dutta have won the award for the Most
Outstanding Evening Gown in International pageants
Ritu has opened many outlets all over India Style icons as late Princess
Diana have patronized her outfits Ritu Kumar also launched her book lsquo
Costumes and Textiles of Royal Indiarsquo which is published by Christiersquos
London
Personal DataBorn in Amritsar November 11 1944
Citizenship INDIAN
Married Two children
EducationPost Graduate Diploma in Museology 1967 Ashutosh Museum Calcutta
Associate in Arts 1966 Briarcliff College Westchester County NY USA
Bachelor of Education 1965 Lady Irwin College New Delhi
Bachelor of Science in Home Economics 1964 Lady Irwin College New
Delhi
Intermediate in Science 1960 Government College Amritsar
Matriculation 1958 Sacred Heart Convent Amritsar
Professional ExperienceDesigner of Textiles and Garments
R amp D in DesignLeather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques ndash The
collection ldquoKarabaghrdquo launched in 1994
Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs in
Maheshwar Andhra Pradesh Orissa and Tamil Nadu
Revival of tiedye in selected areas in Gujarat
Revival and change of end use of vegetable printingpainting and dyeing
techniques in Andhra Pradesh
Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore
Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional
uses to leather and textiles
Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern
techniques of screen-printing
Continuing work on established lines producing two collections a year for
national retail outlets in
Traditional Zardozi
Kashida
Handblock prints
Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand
Kantha
AssociationsMembership of Governing Executive bodies
All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles
Delhi Crafts Council Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya ldquoSave a Childrdquo Trust Calcutta Delhi
Board of Governors
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Boutique 1966Ritursquos first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road
New Delhi This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections
ldquoI believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its
relevance in the present context I also try and visualize whether a woman
would look elegant in my designs Itrsquos a lot of hard work But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Associate in Arts 1966 Briarcliff College Westchester County NY USA
Bachelor of Education 1965 Lady Irwin College New Delhi
Bachelor of Science in Home Economics 1964 Lady Irwin College New
Delhi
Intermediate in Science 1960 Government College Amritsar
Matriculation 1958 Sacred Heart Convent Amritsar
Professional ExperienceDesigner of Textiles and Garments
R amp D in DesignLeather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques ndash The
collection ldquoKarabaghrdquo launched in 1994
Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs in
Maheshwar Andhra Pradesh Orissa and Tamil Nadu
Revival of tiedye in selected areas in Gujarat
Revival and change of end use of vegetable printingpainting and dyeing
techniques in Andhra Pradesh
Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore
Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional
uses to leather and textiles
Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern
techniques of screen-printing
Continuing work on established lines producing two collections a year for
national retail outlets in
Traditional Zardozi
Kashida
Handblock prints
Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand
Kantha
AssociationsMembership of Governing Executive bodies
All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles
Delhi Crafts Council Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya ldquoSave a Childrdquo Trust Calcutta Delhi
Board of Governors
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Boutique 1966Ritursquos first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road
New Delhi This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections
ldquoI believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its
relevance in the present context I also try and visualize whether a woman
would look elegant in my designs Itrsquos a lot of hard work But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Kashida
Handblock prints
Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand
Kantha
AssociationsMembership of Governing Executive bodies
All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles
Delhi Crafts Council Delhi Chapter
Divyachhaya ldquoSave a Childrdquo Trust Calcutta Delhi
Board of Governors
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Boutique 1966Ritursquos first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road
New Delhi This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections
ldquoI believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its
relevance in the present context I also try and visualize whether a woman
would look elegant in my designs Itrsquos a lot of hard work But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far
behindrdquo mdash Ritu Kumar First City Aug-99
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers
Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons degraded by
commercial exploitation resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings
festivals and ceremonies The fusion of a Mughal craft with the Indian a
celebration of the secular mind
In the small village of Ranihati a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms
a few miles outside Kolkata Ritu Kumar began research and work on
reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi With innovations in use of material and
the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much
wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
In 1985 after years of research innovation and creation Ritu Kumar
launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi This was the first ever display
of Zardozi in a contemporary era A modest beginning but with tremendous
hard work soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of
this craft To her credit Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely
appreciated technique around the country
1988 Kashida
Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft In India
embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrymdashthe
geometric phulkarirsquos of the Punjab mirror works motifs of the Kutch
Kashmirrsquos stylized plant and floral motifs tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow
and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indiarsquos
embroidery traditions Block printing is another highly developed tradition
of ornamenting textiles Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse
These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth
Ritu Kumar developed lsquoKashidarsquo as the art of colored thread embroidery on
hand block printed fabric The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has
since been used significantly in RITUrsquos garments sold at her retail outlets
around India
1994 Karabagh
On the southwestern shores of India stretching from Macchalipatnam to
Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast The prints of these region are
synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers
leaves birds trees vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of
years Far to the north hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
another distinct design directory evolved around myriad permutations on
the Ambi or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world
Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave
us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School from the Indian
heartland produced in its ateliers a completely different vocabulary with its
vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with
vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the ldquoCheentrdquo or
chinz prints of India
With the Karabagh Collection Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines
of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi popularized in the
painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari which is the starting point of this
collection The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine
techniques and materials accessible to the designer Thus leather coats bags
and accessories are embossed printed or painted embroidered in harmony
with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range enhancing and adding
an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored The soft furnishing
include spreads hangings and cushions printed embroidered and quilted on
the finest Murshidabad silk perhaps for the first time transforming the feel
of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the
eternal paisley which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design
1996 Sangmarmar
Launched at the end of March ndash just as spring turned to summer the
Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj
Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work
Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia with lsquotone-on-tonersquo white
embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts the lsquoSangmarmarrsquo collection
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
epitomizes the purity of marble Cool and comfortable the designs offer
scoop necklines short sleeves and criss-cross backs ndash young and yet with a
touch of nostalgia
1998 Dhoop Chhaon
Hues of damask rose flowering hibiscus flame of the forest and the deep
golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral
prints on salwar kameez ensembles
1998 Gulmohar
As summer sets in the romantic flame of the forest trees are vibrant with
their red hot colored flowers exuberant and wild under the hot April sun
The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artistrsquos brush strokes of
mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash
flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot
mid day sun
Ritu Kumarrsquos Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of
vibrant prints on cool chiffons Flowy and feminine seductive and warm in
its textures colors and prints The colors are tropical and hot and liven up
summer evenings
1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily
to be dressed in shades of red For her Bridal lsquo99 collection she selected
mehendi green saffron khaki turquoise and even off-white colors Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are
interwoven with pure gold thread
2000 Precirct to CoutureIn August 2000 Ritu Kumar first presented her ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo collection
along with a collection of woolens silk and leather garments
ldquoPrecirct to Couturerdquo is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both
young and elegant The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian
motifs prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of
western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles
The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later
shown in Kolkata
Recently it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumarrsquos
archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of
Modern Art in Mumbai as ldquoA RetrospectivemdashPrecirct to Couturerdquo
Reshmi GhoshFemina Miss India - 2002At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest Reshmi Ghosh
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
India has a rich repertoire of styles and techniques each with diverse
interest and socially interesting norms The national costume of any country
reflects the classical best of its textile traditions The national costume
for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses
of the Punjab in northern India It consists of a panelled skirt a short
blouse and two odhinis or viels One of these is worn over the shoulder and
the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look
The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk and patterned with a
design from the printing school of Farukhabad A wide border of a stylized
ldquoTree of Life motif edges the skirt and the veil This is the traditional
method of detailing royal garments The pattern moves into a curling vine in
the larger areas of the garment The pattern is coloured in rich redburgundy
and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery
traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi The viel which
covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished with narrow borders
The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery bangles and
flowers
ldquoRitu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the
contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia
Pacific participant representing Indiardquo
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002
Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002
Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest
Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002
Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila which was held on the 20th October 2002 She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli
Tree Of Life
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Kalpavrisha or lsquoTree of Liferdquo is a recurrent motif from the
earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation
(Was one of her inspiration)
The Tree of Life show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual
that takes its audience across Indiarsquos unique blend of tradition culture and
style The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all
over the world opening doors of Indias rich heritage and tradition and
receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media The show
comprises eight sequences each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar
has been working with over the past 30 years
Hand Block Printing
The first imprint of design on clothhellip Indiarsquos gift to the world
The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks duplicated exuberantly in
prolific designs on timeless fabric Vegetable dyes mordant dyes indigo
bubbling in vats painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the
people of an ancient land
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back
by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and
experimentations Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such
exclusive creations are a part of her collections
Awards
1998 Lifetime Achievement Award set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology
In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry and the
encouragement of young talent at NIFT Ritu was appointed on the Board of
Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the Lifetime Achievement
award
December 1998 Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Awardset by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce
15th July 2000 Lifetime achievement award set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia a fashion extravaganza in
Bangalore Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the Lifetime
achievement award
BookIn 1999 Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India
An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions both religious and regional arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding Wedding Collection
(From Ritursquos Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal
apparel throughout the century The latest collection depicts the finest in
Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian embroidery
techniques have been used The motifs range from the traditional schools of
Indias traditional textile centres like Benaras Kashmir Andhra Pradesh
Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan The use of
embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals sequins or
any other plastic ornamentation The traditional metallic effects created with
a mixture of dhapka aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is
used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been
symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent
There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
ornamented with gota and zardozi Other wedding ensembles are in ochre
peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with
butis or the paisley motifs
The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble range to
a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas These are especially
noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after
an absence of almost a decade or more In a lighter vein are the gossamer
thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and
subdued elegance Also on display is a range of farshis churidars salwar
kurtas odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru saffron
terracotta and burgundy to soft pomegranate khakis dusty rose colours as a
mark of departure from the traditional ones like red magenta or maroon
which have found popularity amongst the younger generation The colour
palette also emphasized Mehndi green rose pink lilac peach soft greys
gold and turquoise
An Interview ndash Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors Pupul Jayakar Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay
Ambitions in life To be able to continue the research and revival
work that has been started in the craft areas
Challenges in the fields To be constantly innovative and
understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread
of ones work or ones handwriting
High point in career The completion of my book The Costumes
and Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life both of which
reflected the textile richness of this country
Advise to aspirants There are no shortcuts in any profession If the
job is worth doing it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor Be prepared to
not create genius and hope something will evolve at the end
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Fashion Forecasting
TrendsAfter a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism its time now to add some colour So look forward to lots of bright colour So look forward to lots of bright colours this year Besides there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way Everybody regardless of age will like to be in a saree
Wardrobe essentials for womenSandals A minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every womanScarves They will be one of the most important part of any womans wardrobe this year Scarves in bright colours will be the rageClothes A nice saree in crepe a well-fitting trouser suit a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice bright accessories are a must
Jewellery Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs For this antique silver jewellery is best
Kajal A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive
Wardrobe essential for menA well-stitched pair of black trousers a nice pair of denim jeans good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man
Ritu Kumar ndash An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level
Ritu Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level