Indonesia 12 - Preview - media.lonelyplanet.com · David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent...

David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan, Jenny Walker, Ray Bartlett,

Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell

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Welcome to Indonesia . . . .6

Indonesia Map . . . . . . . . . .8

Indonesia’s Top 20 . . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

First Time Indonesia . . . 22

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Month by Month . . . . . . . .27

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Outdoor Adventures . . . . 36

Travel with Children . . . . 52

Regions at a Glance . . . . 55

JAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Jakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Thousand Islands . . . . . . 85West Java . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Banten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Merak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Carita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Labuan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Ujung Kulon National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 89Bogor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Around Bogor . . . . . . . . . . . 95Cimaja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Cibodas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Gede Pangrango National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 97Cianjur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Bandung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99North of Bandung . . . . . . 105Ciwidey & Around . . . . . . . 105Bandung to Pangandaran . . . . . . . . . . . 107Pangandaran . . . . . . . . . . . 108Around Pangandaran . . . . 113Central Java . . . . . . . . . .115Wonosobo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Dieng Plateau . . . . . . . . . . 118Borobudur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Yogyakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 142Kaliurang & Kaliadem . . . 144Selo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Prambanan . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Solo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Gunung Lawu . . . . . . . . . . 157Tawangmangu . . . . . . . . . . 159North Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 159East Java . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Surabaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Trowulan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Pulau Madura . . . . . . . . . . 182

Malang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Around Malang . . . . . . . . . 189Purwodadi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Gunung Penanggungan . . 191Batu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191South-Coast Beaches . . . 192Blitar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Panataran . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Pacitan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Watu Karang . . . . . . . . . . . 195Probolinggo . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park . . . . . . . . . . 197Bondowoso . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Ijen Plateau . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Kalibaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Jember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Meru Betiri National Park . . . . . . . . . .205Alas Purwo National Park . . . . . . . . . .206Banyuwangi . . . . . . . . . . . .209Baluran National Park . . . 210

BALI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Kuta & Southwest Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . 222Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Canggu Region . . . . . . . 239Canggu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239South Bali & the Islands . . . . . . . . . 243Bukit Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 244Sanur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Denpasar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Nusa Lembongan & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

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Ubud Region . . . . . . . . . 263Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263South of Ubud . . . . . . . . . 278North of Ubud . . . . . . . . . .280East Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Klungkung (Semarapura) . . . . . . . . . . 282Sidemen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . . 283Coast Road to Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Tirta Gangga . . . . . . . . . . .290Amed & the Far East Coast . . . . . . . . . .294Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296Central Mountains . . . . 297Danau Bratan Area . . . . . . 298Gunung Batukau Area . . .302Gunung Batur Area . . . . .303North Bali . . . . . . . . . . . 306Lovina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306Pemuteran . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Taman Nasional Bali Barat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313West Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Pura Tanah Lot . . . . . . . . . 314Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 316Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . 317

NUSA TENGGARA . . .320Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Lembar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Southwestern Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Senggigi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327

Sire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331Northwest Coast . . . . . . . 331Senaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . . 334Tetebatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Praya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335East of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . 339West of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . .340East Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . 341Gili Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 342Gili Trawangan . . . . . . . . . .344Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352Gili Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356Sumbawa . . . . . . . . . . . . 360West Sumbawa . . . . . . . . .360East Sumbawa . . . . . . . . . 365Komodo & Rinca Islands . . . . . . . . . 369Komodo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Rinca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372Flores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372Labuan Bajo . . . . . . . . . . . 373Manggarai Country . . . . . 382Bajawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Around Bajawa . . . . . . . . . 385Riung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386Ende . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Kelimutu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389Moni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390Paga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Maumere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Waiara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393Wodong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394Alor Archipelago . . . . . . 394Kalabahi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394Around Kalabahi . . . . . . . .396West Timor . . . . . . . . . . 398Kupang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399Around Kupang . . . . . . . . .403Soe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .404

Around Soe . . . . . . . . . . . .405Kefamenanu . . . . . . . . . . .406Around Kefamenanu . . . . 407Rote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407Nemberala . . . . . . . . . . . . .408Around Nemberala . . . . . .409Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409Waingapu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411East Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . . 413South Central Sumba . . . 414West Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . 414

MALUKU . . . . . . . . . . 420North Maluku . . . . . . . . 422Pulau Ternate . . . . . . . . . . 423Pulau Tidore . . . . . . . . . . .430Pulau Halmahera . . . . . . . 431Pulau Ambon . . . . . . . . . 436Kota Ambon . . . . . . . . . . . 437Southern Leitimur . . . . . .442Eastern Leihitu . . . . . . . . .442Northern & Western Leihitu . . . . . . . .443Lease Islands . . . . . . . . 444Pulau Saparua . . . . . . . . .444Pulau Seram . . . . . . . . . 446Masohi, Namano & Amahai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446Northern Seram . . . . . . . . 447Banda Islands . . . . . . . . 447Bandaneira . . . . . . . . . . . .450Pulau Gunung Api . . . . . . 454Pulau Banda Besar . . . . . 454Pulau Hatta . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Pulau Ai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Pulau Run . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Kei Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 457Tual & Langgur . . . . . . . . . 457Pulau Kei Kecil . . . . . . . . .460Pulau Kei Besar . . . . . . . .463

Contents

PAPUA . . . . . . . . . . . 464West Papua . . . . . . . . . . 470Sorong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471Raja Ampat Islands . . . . . 472Manokwari . . . . . . . . . . . . .480Around Manokwari . . . . . .483Northern Papua . . . . . . 484Jayapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Sentani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .488Around Sentani . . . . . . . .489Pulau Biak . . . . . . . . . . . . .490Nabire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .494Baliem Valley . . . . . . . . . 495Wamena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .496Northeastern Baliem Valley . . . . . . . . . . .500Northwestern Baliem Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 501Yali Country . . . . . . . . . . . .502Southern Papua . . . . . . 504Merauke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504Wasur National Park . . . .506Asmat Region . . . . . . . . . . 507Korowai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508

SUMATRA . . . . . . . . 509North Sumatra . . . . . . . 513Medan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513Bukit Lawang . . . . . . . . . . 519Tangkahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Berastagi & Around . . . . . 523Parapat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527Danau Toba . . . . . . . . . . . . 527Sibolga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533Pulau Nias . . . . . . . . . . . 534Gunung Sitoli . . . . . . . . . . 535Traditional Villages . . . . . . 536Pantai Sorake & Teluk Lagundri . . . . . . . 539

Teluk Dalam . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Aceh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Banda Aceh . . . . . . . . . . . . 541Pulau Weh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545Aceh’s West Coast . . . . . . 549Banyak Islands . . . . . . . . . 551Gunung Leuser National Park . . . . . . . . . . 554West Sumatra . . . . . . . . 557Padang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558Pantai Bungus & Sungai Pinang . . . . . . . . 562Mentawai Islands . . . . . . . 563Bukittinggi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570South of Bukittinggi . . . . 574Danau Maninjau . . . . . . . . 575Kerinci Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 578Bengkulu . . . . . . . . . . . . 583Riau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586Pekanbaru . . . . . . . . . . . . .586Dumai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587Pulau Batam . . . . . . . . . . . 588Pulau Bintan . . . . . . . . . . . 589Jambi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592South Sumatra . . . . . . . 595Palembang . . . . . . . . . . . . 596

Lampung . . . . . . . . . . . . 597Tanjung Setia & Krui . . . . 599Bandar Lampung . . . . . . .600Way Kambas National Park . . . . . . . . . .602Gunung Krakatau . . . . . . .604Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park . . . . . . . . . .605

KALIMANTAN . . . . . 606West Kalimantan . . . . . 610Pontianak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Singkawang . . . . . . . . . . . . 616Sintang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 617Putussibau . . . . . . . . . . . . 618Sukadana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .620Gunung Palung National Park . . . . . . . . . . 622Central Kalimantan . . . 622Tanjung Puting National Park . . . . . . . . . . 622Pangkalan Bun . . . . . . . . . 625Kumai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 627Palangka Raya . . . . . . . . .628Sebangau National Park . . . . . . . . . . 631

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Contents

South Kalimantan . . . . 632Banjarmasin . . . . . . . . . . . 632Kandangan . . . . . . . . . . . . 635Loksado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636East & North Kalimantan . . . . . . . . . . 637Balikpapan . . . . . . . . . . . . .638Samarinda . . . . . . . . . . . . .642Sungai Mahakam . . . . . . . 645Muller Mountains . . . . . . . 651Kutai National Park . . . . . 651Berau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651Merabu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 653Derawan Archipelago . . . .654North Kalimantan . . . . . . . 658

SULAWESI . . . . . . . . 659South Sulawesi . . . . . . . 662Makassar . . . . . . . . . . . . . .662Malino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .668Pantai Bira . . . . . . . . . . . . .669Pulau Liukang Loe . . . . . . 672Pulau Selayar . . . . . . . . . . 673Taka Bonerate Islands . . . 673Watampone . . . . . . . . . . . . 673Sengkang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 674Pare Pare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 675Tana Toraja . . . . . . . . . . . . 675

Mamasa Valley . . . . . . . 688Mamasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .689Central Sulawesi . . . . . . 690Tentena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .690Poso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692Lore Lindu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 692Palu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .694Donggala & Tanjung Karang . . . . . . . . . 695Luwuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .696Ampana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .696Togean Islands . . . . . . . . . 697North Sulawesi . . . . . . . 702Gorontalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702Manado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704Pulau Bunaken & Pulau Siladen . . . . . . . . 707Tomohon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 711Bitung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 713Pulau Lembeh & the Lembeh Strait . . . . . . 714Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714Southeast Sulawesi . . . 715Kolaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 715Kendari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716Bau Bau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 717Wakatobi Islands . . . . . . . 718

Indonesia Today . . . . . . 722

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 725

Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 744

Arts & Crafts . . . . . . . . . 753

Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 762

Environment . . . . . . . . . .773

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 782

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 793

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 805

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .816

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 829

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESItineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Outdoor Adventures . . . 36

Travel with Children . . . . 52

Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 744

Arts & Crafts . . . . . . . . . 753

Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 762

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

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Mix the offbeat with the sublime in Indonesia’s heart of tourism.

Start in Bali, acclimatising in the resorts, clubs and shops of Seminyak. Dose up on sun at the beach, then explore the perfect little beaches and surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula.

Head north to immerse yourself in the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, temples and rich his-tory of Ubud. Take a cooking course, unwind at a spa, wander the rice paddies and see Bali’s famous traditional dance. Then escape to the misty mountains for treks to water-falls amid coffee plantations in and around Munduk.

Next is Lombok. Take the ferry from Bali’s port town of Padangbai to Lombok’s launching pad of Lembar. Head to Kuta for mellow vibes amid the wonderful beaches of south Lombok. Then potter through the rice fields and Hindu temples around Mataram.

Ferry from Bangsal to the deservedly celebrated Gili Islands, where seamless beach-es, translucent water and vivid reefs beg for snorkelling. Or if time’s short, catch a fast boat directly to the Gilis from Bali.

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Sumatra is big and you’ll have to hustle to fully appreciate its myriad natural charms within visa constraints.

Start your explorations in Medan, then head out of town to Bukit Lawang to see the island’s famous residents, the orang-utans. It’s a short jaunt from here to Berast-agi, a laid-back hill town amid volcanoes.

Head northwest to Ketambe for truly wild orang-uatan encounters in Gunung Leuser National Park. Then take a bus to Banda Aceh, from where it’s a short boat ride to world-class diving at Pulau Weh. Take a bus along the coast south (or fly) and venture off the west coast to the Ban-yak Islands, a surfing and beach paradise. Back ashore, follow the Trans- Sumatran Hwy south to Bukittinggi, a good base for exploring the cultures and beauty of the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau.

More surf, sand and underwater joy await at the Mentawai Islands. Next, head inland to the volcanic Kerinci Val-ley and Kerinci Seblat National Park for remote jungle villages. Finally, head far south to Way Kambas National Park, where the highlights include elephants. From here, it’s easy to catch the Java ferry.

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Sumatra

Indonesia’s most populous island mixes the nation’s future and past with natural beauty.

Begin in Jakarta and wrap your senses around the dizzying smells, sounds, sights and people of Indonesia’s teeming capital. Linger long enough to binge on Bintang beer and splurge in the city’s shops, then head to Batu Karas for classic laid-back beach vibes or go for the resorts of nearby Pangandaran.

After you’ve worshipped the sun for a week or so, catch the train to Yogyakarta, Java’s cultural capital. Dabble in batik, am-ble through the kraton (walled city palace) and part with your rupiah at the vibrant markets. A day trip to majestic Borobu-dur is a must.

From Yogyakarta, journey to the laid-back city of Solo, via the enigmatic temples of Prambanan. From there, visit Malang and its cluster of nearby Hindu temples. Then head into the clouds at awe-some Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, spending a night on the lip of Teng-ger crater. Finally, hike to the magnificent turquoise sulphur lake of Kawah Ijen on the Ijen Plateau

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Papua is the launching pad for this route through some of Indonesia’s most exotic and beautiful territory. You can do it in 30 days with judicious use of flights; other-wise take your time for the full land and sea adventure.

Start at the transport hub of Jayapura. But you’ll only be there long enough to charter a boat to visit the magnificent Da-nau Sentani, a 96.5-sq-km lake with 19 islands perfect for inland island-hopping.

Back on dry land, take to the air to get to the beautiful Baliem Valley, rich in culture and hike-worthy mountain scenery, jumping-off point for treks into the little-explored Yali Country, and home to the Dani people, an ethnic group whose mem-bers have eschewed most modern things and live a traditional life. Enjoy mountain views from a thatched hut.

Fly to Nabire via Jayapura and spot whale sharks off the coast – you can even swim with them. Then fly up for some idle island time on Pulau Biak. Next it’s a flight to Sorong, a base for trips out to the Raja Ampat Islands – a paradise for di-vers and snorkellers, with Indonesia’s most abundant and varied marine life.

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Lombok is well-known to visitors and Flores is also popular, but the island province of Nusa Tenggara holds many more surprises.

Head east from Lombok. Admire the beautiful coastline and surf breaks such as Maluk and Pantai Lakey that dot Sum-bawa. Catch the ferry to Flores, where Labuan Bajo is the fast-growing hub for ex-ploring nearby Komodo National Park. Enjoy dragons and small, beautiful island beaches.

Flores is a rugged volcanic island with thriving ancient cultures and dramatic terrain, which is increasingly explored via the fast-improving Trans-Flores Hwy. Visit Bajawa to explore volcanoes and villages, then use mountainside Moni as a base for visiting the vivid waters at Kelimutu. Sa-vour the lovely beaches near Paga.

Now take a ferry south to isolated and timeless Sumba, where superb beaches such as Waikabubak and Tambolaka are starting to attract visitors. After indulg-ing in sun and isolation, fly to Kupang in West Timor. Visit entrancing ancient vil-lages like None, Boti and Temkessi in the surrounding areas to the east, then jump over to Rote for relaxed beach vibes.

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ÉÉÉ#•

Lombok

Sumbawa

Nusa Tenggara

32

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Mysterious rivers of unfathomable length that wind through the jungle are the av-enues via which travellers can discover Kalimantan’s incredible diversity of life, including orang-utans.

Unassuming Pangkalan Bun is the en-try point to this excursion – it’s the launch-ing pad for trips into glorious Tanjung Puting National Park, one of the prime places for spotting orang-utans. Scan the canopy for their amber bodies from the up-per deck of a klotok (houseboat) as it drifts down the beautiful Sungai Sekonyer.

From Pangkalan Bun, fly or take the over-night bus to colourful Banjarmasin. Make sure to visit its animated floating markets, one of the most photogenic sights in Kalim-antan. Detour for some hiking and bamboo rafting in the remote hills around Loksado. From Banjarmasin, travel overland to Sa-marinda and make an expedition along Sungai Mahakam. Several days upstream will land you in the river’s western reaches, which are peppered with semi-traditional Dayak villages and preserved forests. Travel back to the coast and head north to primi-tive, teardrop-shaped Pulau Derawan and its offshore underwater wonders.

6 WEEKS

J A VA S E A

#•

MaLaYsIa

PangkalanBun

Samarinda

Tanjung PutingNational Park

SungaiMahakam

PulauDerawan

Loksado

ÉÉ

É

#•

#•

#•

#•

Banjarmasin

#•

#÷

É

Postcards Come to Life

Explore two of Indonesia’s greatest con-centrations of islands in these little-visited regions.

In Makassar pause amid the pandemo-nium for excellent seafood. But don’t overdo it, as you want to be fully alive for the elabo-rate funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja, a nine-hour bus trip from Makassar. From here, another long bus ride takes you to the mountain-lake town of Tentena, from where you can access the ancient megalithic statues of Lore Lindu. A four-hour shared-car journey whisks you to Ampana, where you take a ferry to the amazing, beguiling Togean Islands for days of island-hopping between iconic beaches.

Tearing yourself away, boat to Goron-talo, then board a bus or plane to Manado and take a boat to laid-back Pulau Bu-naken. Fly from Manado to Pulau Ter-nate, which is as pretty a tropical island paradise as you’ll find. From there, fly onto Kota Ambon on Maluku’s Pulau Ambon. Pause only briefly, then take the fast ferry to the crystalline seas, multicoloured reefs and empty beaches of the Banda Islands. Finally make the jaunt by boat southeast to the Kei Islands, for perfect beaches.

8 WEEKS

PHILIPPInes

tIMOr-Leste

T I M O R S E A

C E L E B E SS E A

KeiIslands

Makassar

Tana Toraja

Tentena

LoreLindu Ampana

TogeanIslands

Gorontalo

Manado

Kota Ambon

BandaIslands #f #•

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É

PulauTernate

#–

#•

#•

#•

É

É

É

#–

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ÉÉ

#•

#•

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•

PulauBunaken

#•

Indonesia’s Island Core

33PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

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CHINA

INDIACAMBODIA

LAOS

MYANMAR

MALAYSIA

THAILAND

VIETNAM

Padang

Jambi

BandungSurabaya

Solo(Surakarta)Yogyakarta

BukitLawang

PangkalPinang

BandarLampung

Pontianak

Banjarmasin

Balikpapan

Samarinda

PalangkaRaya

KotaKinabalu

Kuching

Denpasar

Ho ChiMinh City

KUALALUMPUR

BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN

B

PHNOMPENH

ANGKOK

SINGAPORE

South

China

Sea(East

Sea)

TelukDalu

INDIANOCEAN

ka ###•##•###•#

UJUNG KULON

NATIONAL PARK

SOUTHWESTGILIS

AMLAPURA

#•CANDI MUARATAKUS

#•

GUNUNGMERBABU

Off the Beaten Track

#•

small, but serene 11th-century Buddhist temple ruins in riau Province. (p586)

CANDI MUARA TAKUS

Put your survival skills to the test in a pristine rainforest. (p89)

UJUNG KULON NATIONAL PARK

Wander the remote savannah of this forgotten volcanic crater. (p145)

GUNUNG MERBABU

Idyllic, reef-fringed isles offering respite from those other Gilis. (p326)

SOUTHWEST GILIS

World-class traditional cuisine in Gunung agung’s fertile foothills. (p290)

AMLAPURA

34

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PH

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ILIPPINES

Fak-fak

ManokwariKota Biak

Timika

Sorong

Wamena

KotaTernate

KotaAmbon

JayapuraMakale

Makassar

Palu

Gorontalo

Kupang

DILI

MANILA

SulawesiSea

4444

#•

BOGANI NANIWARTABONENATIONAL PARK

#• PULAU HALMAHERA

#•

PULAUTANIMBAR

KEI#•KOROWAI

0 1,000 km0 500 miles#e

the largest island in Maluku but also one of the least-visited, Halmahera offers beaches and volcanoes, little-seen dive sites and the chance to venture into one of Indonesia’s most remote national parks. (p431)

PULAU HALMAHERA

this remote national park offers both rare species and ancient burial sites buried deep within the forests.(p703)

BOGANI NANI WARTAB-ONE NATIONAL PARK

Visit the world’s most talented tree-house builders in super-remote Papua. (p508)

KOROWAI

this idyllic island has superb white-sand beaches ringed by tranquil turquoise sea and a complete lack of tourist infrastructure. Find a homestay with the friendly locals and let the days drift by. (p463)

PULAU TANIMBAR KEI

35PLAN

YOUR TRIP O

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813

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alex Ward, Alexandra Wald, Anita Mulders, Anne Robson, Anouk Lubbe, Anthony van den Langenbergh B Brad Plogsted C Carlos Fernandez, Colin Whitefield D Dan Conroy, Dani Daley, David Greilach, David Hudak, David Mendes Barata E Ed Allan, Erica Wijarnako F Fernando Raynaldi Kale, Floor van Wingerden, Florence Soudy, Freddy Klingbeil G Gaia Pinotti, Gary Chow, Glen Clark J Javier Castro Guinea, Jenine Allaart, Jeroen Willemsen, Jesper Buijs K Katharina Davies, Keith Koenigsberg, Kerry Blunsum L Lianca Ruiter, Lynn Lawrance M Manuela Arigoni, Marie Kirchner, Marine Yzquierdo, Mark Tewari, Marlon Goos , Marten Buijs, Matt Lyne, Matthieu Kamerman, Mel Farrell, Mi-chael Montague N Natalie Bogner, Nia Haf, Nick Tunley P Patricia Lustig, Paulo Leite R Rachel de Jong, Rolf Rabe, Rudolph Lei-jtens S Sean Lavery, Stefano Longoni, Stella Meerman, Stephen Wilson, Steven Hannink, Steven Haurissa, Stien Van den Heuvel, Sven Bohnert, Sybrand Mostert, Syenne Ribka T Tjip Huysmans, Tom Roes V Virginie More W Wessel van Son

AUTHOR THANKS David EimerSpecial gratitude for their help to Aty in Terna-te, Ere in Ambon, Alan in Bandaneira and Vicky in Kei Kecil. Thanks to Tanya Parker and the LP crew in London. As ever, thanks to everyone who passed on tips along the way, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

Paul HardingA big thanks to the many gracious and helpful Indonesians I encountered on the road in Kali-mantan, including Denny in Pontianak, Agung, Kipli and Arly in Sintang, Bona Ventura, Liesa, Majid and the crew at Kumai, Tailah, Yayat and Wenny, Meiling in Balikpapan, Budiyono and Danielle. Most of all, thanks to Hannah and Layla for the regular phone calls and enduring patience.

Ashley HarrellThanks to editor Tanya Parker and my co- authors for their excellency, Katharine Krzyzan-owski for hanging out, the Italians (Gianluca Affitti, Elena Rebeggiani, Maurizio Benedettini and Roberta Simoni) for admiring my reckless-ness and feeding me cheese, Antoni Sitepu for invaluable assistance and endless amusement, the Korowai people for their hospitality, Jon Clutton and Liz Morgan for their buoyancy tips, and Alex Harrell and Sarah Tosques for flying

Behind the Scenes


814

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

across the world to keep me company at 25m below sea level. I still can’t believe you came.

Trent HoldenFirst up huge thanks to Tanya Parker at Lonely Planet for giving me this awesome gig to work on Sumatra. So good to be back! A big shout out to Gustri Tri Putra for all your hard work in helping me get around this beast of an island and the laughs and good tunes along the way. I’d also like to thank the following people for their assistance: Ling, Josh, Luke, Zacky, Brigitte, Mr Moon, Nella, Andrea, Timmy, Joseph, Ahmad, Linda, Mery and Abdy. Finally love to all of my family and my beautiful fiancé Kate.

Mark JohansonThanks to all the people on Lombok and Sumbawa who steered me in the right direction and helped me to navigate the post-earthquake islands, even when their personal lives were in shambles. I owe a debt of gratitude to Rudy Trekker, Gemma Marjaya, Kelly Goldie and Andy Wheatcroft for being fountains of knowledge along the way. A special thanks to my partner Felipe Bascuñán for tolerating my long absences and to my editor Niamh O’Brien for tirelessly ensuring I was OK!

MaSovaida MorganDeepest thanks to the wonderful souls who provided assistance, insight and companion-ship throughout my time on Bali: Rob, Mar-gie, Max, Kristy and the Outsite crew; Gigi and Annette; Ty and Jeff; and especially to my dear brother Bayu for an efficient and unfor-gettable journey.

Jenny WalkerI first visited Indonesia 35 years ago and in a country where everything has changed, the

sense of welcome has remained constant. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in the Central Java section of this country update. Specific thanks to Mr Dwi Cahyono of Akgkasa Trans for his wonderful dependability and gentle companionship. Biggest thanks are reserved as ever to beloved Sam (Owen) – husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller.

Ray BartlettThanks first and foremost to Tanya, for the chance to work on this, and to each of the editors who will peek at it afterwards. Thanks as well to my family, friends, and to my in-credible Indonesian contacts. In particular, huge thanks to Ms Tijo, the ‘Buah Naga’, to Sarah H, to Edy and to the rest of my Indo-nesian pals. Last, I want to send particular wishes to the people in Donggala, Palu and other regions so affected by the earthquake and tsunami. Words can’t express my sorrow for your losses, and my admiration for your strength and recovery.

Loren BellThe biggest thank you to Kari: for putting up with my long absences during these projects – both physical and mental – and for giving me a brief reprieve from dish duties as dead-lines approached. Your love and support (and regular pupdates) are critical and felt even half way around the planet.

Jade BremnerThanks to Destination Editor Tanya Parker for her support, knowledge and quick-fire responses on Jakarta. Plus, the wider Indo-nesia team and everyone working behind the scenes on this project – Cheree Broughton, Neill Coen, Evan Godt and Helen Elfer. Last but not least, thanks to the friendly Jakarta locals, who always remain calm, polite and

THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Indonesia guidebook was curated by David Eimer, Paul Harding, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Mark Johanson, MaSovaida Morgan and Jenny Walker, who also researched and wrote it along with Ray Bartlett, Loren Bell, Jade Bremner, Stuart Butler, Sofia Levin and Virginia Maxwell. The previous edition was researched and written by Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick,

Iain Stewart and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Tanya Parker, Niamh O’BrienSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Kathryn RowanRegional Senior Carto- grapher Julie SheridanBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Michelle Bennett, Heather Champion, Nigel Chin, Lucy Cowie, Kate Daly, Melanie

Dankel, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Kate James, Lou McGre-gor, Rosie Nicholson, Sarah Reid, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie DodkinsAssisting Book Designers Clara MonittoCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Jennifer Carey, Martin Heng, Evan Godt, Elizabeth Jones, Lauren Keith, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Matt Phil-lips, Rachel Rawling, Eleanor Simpson, Colin Trainer, James Smart

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES815

helpful despite the endlessly chaotic sur-roundings of the city.

Stuart ButlerThe first people I must thank are my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for their unending patience while I worked on this project (and for graciously accepting my only being able to take a week’s holiday). In Java thank you to Dadang Supardi and Suwarna Adi as well as to all the many hotel and restaurant owners and other wonderful Indonesians who helped out. In LP land thank you to Tanya for the chance to work on this project.

Sofia LevinErwin, Willy and Andy – thank you for your guidance on the road, but most of all, your friendship. To my husband, Matt, this job would be impossible without your constant support and encouragement, both when I’m away and by your side. And to my parents (aka my biggest fans), thank you for instilling

me with curiosity, appetite and the travel bug from the moment I was born.

Virginia MaxwellThanks to Ryan Ver Berkmoes for the Bali briefing, Hanafi Dharma for the expert driving and navigation, and Niamh O’Brien for mon-itoring the safety situation. My support team of Peter and Max Handsaker stayed calm when they saw the earthquake reports and made regular Skype calls to check up on me. I couldn’t work as a travel writer without them.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Danau Toba, Sumatra, Fredi Daeli/Shutterstock ©.

816

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 139, 782accommodation 782-4, see

also individual locationsAceh 539-56, 739, 540

west coast 549-51activities 36-51, see

also individual activitiesAgats 507-8Agung Rai Museum of

Art 263Air Terjun Oehala 405Air Terjun Tanggedu 412air travel 793, 794-5

airlines 793, 794-5airports 793

El Tari Airport 403Husein Sastranegara

Airport 104Kualanamu International

Airport 518Lombok International

Airport 335Ngurah Rai International

Airport 21, 219, 793Soekarno-Hatta Inter-

national Airport 21, 83, 793

Sultan Iskandar Muda International Airport 544

Surabaya Juanda Interna-tional Airport 180

Yogyakarta Adisucipto International Airport 140

Alas Purwo National Park 206-8

alcohol 770poisoning 788

Alor Archipelago 394-8Amahai 446Ambarawa 166-7Amed 294-6

Amlapura 290Ampana 696-7amusement parks

DMZ: Dream Museum Zone 161

Taman Festival Bali 251Taman Mini Indonesia

Indah 71Waterbom Park 224

animals 25, 468-9, 582, 774-6, see also individual species

archaeological sitesBada Valley 693Beteng Somba Opu 663Borobudur 19, 120-4, 318,

19, 318Candi Muara Takus 586Kraton Ratu Boko 149Muara Jambi 592-4Situs Megalitik Tutari 490Tinggi Hari 598

architecture 754-6area codes 21art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 753-6, see

also crafts, individual arts

Balinese 217-18, 278Asmat region 507-8ASRI 621ATMs 786

BBade 506Bajau (people) 702Bajawa 383-5Bajawa region 385-6Bajra Sandhi Monument 254Balekambang 192Bali 55, 212-315, 214-15,

292-3accommodation 212arts 217-18children, travel with 225climate 212

crafts 278culture 216-19dance 12, 218-19, 275,

2, 292east Bali 280-97, 281food 212highlights 214-15, 214-15history 213, 216internet resources 219itineraries 30north Bali 306-14, 307religion 216-17south Bali 243-63, 223southwest beaches

222-39tourist information 219tours 221travel to/from 219-20travel within 220-2west Bali 314-17, 315

Balian Beach 316-17balian 277Baliem Valley 17, 495-503,

496Baliem Valley Festival 497Balikpapan 638-42, 639

accommodation 638-9drinking & nightlife 641food 639-41information 641shopping 641sights 638tours 638travel to/from 641-2travel within 642

Balinese healers, see balianBalinese names 218balok 683Baluran National Park 210-11Banda Aceh 541-5, 542

drinking 543-4food 543-4information 544sights 541travel to/from 544-5travel within 545

Banda Islands 13, 447-57, 449, 13, 42

Bandaneira 450-4, 451accommodation 452-3activities 452food 453information 453shopping 453sights 450-2travel to/from 453, 454travel within 454

Bandar Lampung 600-2, 601

Bandung 99-105, 100, 106accommodation 101-2activities 101drinking & nightlife 103-4entertainment 104food 102-3shopping 104sights 99-101tours 101travel to/from 104-5travel within 105

Bandung region 105Bangka Islands 710Bangli 282Banjarmasin 632-5, 633Banten 86Banyak Islands 551-4, 552Banyu Wana Amertha

Waterfalls 300Banyuwangi 209-10bargaining 23Barong dance 275, 293,

2, 292Batak people 530Batak puppet dance 532bathrooms 790batik 140, 156, 760Batu 191-2Batu Beribu 598Batu Bolong Beach 240Batu Gajah 598Batu Karas 114-15Batubulan 279-80

Index


817IN

DEX B

- CBatutumonga 683-4Bau Bau 717-18Bau Nyale 337Baun 403-4Bawomataluo 537-8beaches 25, 37-8, 286, 418

Alas Purwo National Park 207

Balian Beach 316-17Balikpapan 638Baluran National Park

210Bau Bau 717Belongas 341Bengkulu 584Bosnik 493Candidasa 289Canggu 240, 242Bumbangku 340Grajagan Beach 207Indrayanti 143Jayapura 485-6Jepara 168, 169Jimbaran 244Kalabahi 395Kalabahi region 397Karimunjawa 170Kukup 144Kupang 399Kuta (Bali) 222Kuta (Lombok) 336Legian 222Manokwari 480Meru Betiri National

Park 205Nemberala region 409Nusa Lembongan 258Padang Padang 246Paga 391. 392Pangandaran 108Pangandaran region

113-15Pantai Bira 669Pemuteran 310Pulau Bunaken 707-8Pulau Halmahera 432Pulau Kei Besar 463Pulau Kei Kecil 461, 462Pulau Ndao 409Pulau Ternate 423-4Pulau Tidore 430Sanur 251Selong Blanak 340Seminyak 231Southern Leitimur 442Tentena 691

Bedulu 278beehive huts 406becak 21, 798

beliefs, see religionBelimbing 575Belongas 341Bena 385-6Bengkulu 583-6Benteng Belgica 450Berakit 591Berastagi 523-7, 524Berau 651-3, 652betang 619Betung Kerihun National

Park 618bicycle travel, see cyclingBima 367-8Bingin 245-6bird flu 803birds 775birds of paradise 775birdwatching

Aketajawe-Lolobata National Park 436

Manusela National Park 446

Minahasa region 712Pegunungan Arfak 483-4Raja Ampat Islands 475Tangkoko-Batuangas

Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 715

Ubud 267Way Kambas National

Park 603bites & stings 803Bitung 713-14Blitar 193-5blogs 724boat travel 647, 794, 795-7

safety 796boat trips

Cilacap 113Green Canyon 113-14Singkil 549Sungai Mahakam 645-6

Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 703

Bogor 91-5, 92accommodation 93-4food 94information 95sights 92-3tours 93travel to/from 95travel within 95

Bogor region 95-6Bondowoso 201-2Boni 409books 61, 722border crossings 793-4

Malaysia 616, 658

Papua New Guina 488Timor-Leste 404

Borobudur 19, 120-4, 318, 19, 318

accommodation 123festivals & events 122-3food 123-4information 124planning 121sights 121-2tours 122travel to/from 124travel within 124

Borobudur region 124Borobudur Temple 12, 121-

2, 19, 318Bosnik 493Botohili 538Bromo-Tengger-Semeru

National Park 197-201Buddhism 751-2budget 21Bugis, the 674Bukit Barisan Selatan

National Park 605Bukit Daub 584Bukit Kaba 584Bukit Lawang 519-22Bukit Peninsula 244-51, 38Bukittinggi 570-4, 571, 575

accommodation 573drinking 573-4festivals & events 572food 573-4information 574shopping 574sights 570tours 572travel to/from 574travel within 574

Bukittinggi region 574-5, 575

bull racing 29Bumbangku 340bus travel 797business hours 21

CCandi Sukuh 157Candidasa 288-90, 289Candikuning 298-9Canggu 239-44, 241

accommodation 240-2drinking & nightlife 242-3food 242information 243shopping 243sights 240

travel to/from 243travel within 243

Canggu region 239-43canyoning 50-1, 379Captain Courthope 457car travel 797-8Carita 88-9cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Goa Gajah 278Goa Hawang Caves 463Goa Jepang 493Goa Kasah 581-2Goa Kotilola 501Gua Istana 207Gua Jepang 570Gua Kotilola 501Gua Leang Leang 662Gua Padepokan 207Gua Wikuda 500Liang Bua 382

caving 379celebrations 766-7cell phones 20, 789cemeteries, see also

graves, tombsAsta Tinggi Cemetery

183British Cemetery 584Commonwealth War

Cemetery 437Jakarta War Cemetery 71Kambira Baby Graves

687-8Kherkhof 541Waruga Opo Worang

711-12Cempaka Diamond Fields

632Central Java 115, 116Central Kalimantan 622-32central mountains

297-306Central Sulawesi 690-702children, travel with 52-4

Bali 225Christianity 750-1churches & cathedrals

Dutch Church 450Francis Xavier Cathedral

438Gereja Tua Hila 443Graha Maria Annai

Velangkanni 516St Francis of Assisi

Catholic Church 523-4Cianjur 98-9Cibodas 97Cimaja 96-7

818

IND

EX C- G

Ciokoto 113Cipanas 107Ciwidey 105-7climate 20, see also

individual regionsclimbing 379coffee 684, 770conservation 476, 584,

621, 657consulates 784-5cottage industries 168cooking courses 769

Bali 250, 251, 266, 291, 309, 4

Danau Toba 529-30Gili Air 358Gili Trawangan 347

costs 21, 783, 785crafts 278, 756-61, see

also arts, individual crafts

credit cards 786-7culture 744-52

Bali 216-19Java 61-2Papua 468

currency 20customs regulations 784cycling 39, 795

Danau Toba 529Gili Trawangan 347Jakarta 72

DDanau Batur 304-5Danau Bratan region 298-

301, 299Danau Buyan 299-300Danau Maninjau 575-7, 576Danau Sentani 489-90Danau Sentarum National

Park 620Danau Tamblingan

299-300Danau Toba 527-33, 528

accommodation 530-1activites 529courses 529-30drinking & nightlife 532festivals & events 530food 531-2information 532-3shopping 532sights 528-9tours 529-30

travel to/from 533travel within 533

dance 12, 753Balinese 218-19, 275Barong 275, 293, 2, 292Kecak 275Legong 275, 7Rangda 275warrior 502

dangers, see safetyDani people 495-6, 500,

503, 17deforestation 779-80Demak 166-7dengue fever 801-2Denpasar 254-7, 256-7Derawan Archipelago

654-7Desa Takpal 396diarrhoea 803Dieng Plateau 118-20disabilities, travellers with

139, 782diving 25, 39-42, see

also snorkellingAmed 294-5Bali’s islands 260Banda Islands 448Bandaneira 452Banyak Islands 552Belongas 341Derawan Archipelago

654-5Eastern Leihitu 442-3Gapang 547Gili Air 356Gili Islands 346Gili Meno 353-4Gili Trawangan 346-7Gorontalo 703Kalabahi 395Karimunjawa Islands

170-1Kuta (Lombok) 336Labuan Bajo 374-5Leihitu region 443Lovina 308-9Maleo Moyo 364Nusa Lembongan 258Nusa Penida 262Padaido Islands 493-4Padangbai 285-6Pantai Bira 669-70, 671Pasir Panjang 462Pemuteran 310-11Pulau Ambon 436Pulau Biak 491Pulau Bunaken 709Pulau Hatta 455

Pulau Kadidiri 699-700Pulau Kei Kecil 24Pulau Menjangan 311Pulau Moyo 364Pulau Raja 447Pulau Tomia 720Pulau Weh 545Raja Ampat Islands

472-5, 41responsible diving 43safety 40Sanur 251Sauwandarek Jetty 474Senggigi 328Tobelo 434Togean Islands 697-8Tulamben 297

Dokan 525dolphins 646, 776dolphin-watching

Lovina 308Tangkoko-Batuangas


Donggala 695drinks 770

alcohol 770coffee 684, 770sopi 400tea 770

drugs 788dugongs 397Dumai 587-8

Eearthquakes

Gili Islands 343Gunung Rinjani 333Sulawesi 690

east Bali 280-97, 281East Java 174-211, 175East Kalimantan 637-58East Timor, see Timor-

LesteEastern Leihitu 442-3economy 723Ekas 340electricity 784elephants 523, 584embassies 784-5Ende 387-9, 388environment 773-80environmental issues 476,

630, 777-80etiquette 23events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21

Ffestivals & events 27-9

Bali Arts Festival 254Bali Spirit Festival 270Baliem Valley Festival

497Bau Nyale 337Djakarta Warehouse

Festival 73Festival Danau Sentani

28, 488Galungan & Kuningan

29, 28Gerebeg 27, 130Idul Fitri 29, 28Independence Day

Carnival 171Nyepi 27, 216Pasola 27Ramadan 749Tana Toraja Funeral

Festivals 28-9Ubud Writers & Readers

Festival 29, 270films 722Flores 372-94, 374food 18, 762-72, 18, 764,

765, 768, see also indi-vidual locations

dog meat 706glossary 771-2Malukan cuisine 422Padang cuisine 561Palembang cuisine 597seafood 245soto kudus 167

fortsBenteng Amsterdam 443Benteng Belgica 450Benteng Duurstede 445Benteng Hollandia 455Benteng Kalamata 427Benteng Nassau 450Benteng Oranye 427Benteng Revenge 456Benteng Tahula 431Benteng Tolukko 425Benteng Torre 431Benteng Victoria 438Benteng Vredeburg 128English Fort 457Fort Marlborough 583Fort Rotterdam 663

fruits 766

GGaleri Nasional 69galleries, see museums &

galleries


819IN

DEX G

- IGapang 547-8gardens, see parks &

gardensGarut 107gay travellers 786Gede Pangrango National

Park 97-8geology 773-80Gerupuk 339-40Gili Air 356-60, 357

accommodation 358-9activities 356-7beaches 356courses 358drinking & nightlife 359food 359information 360travel to/from 360

Gili Gede 326-7Gili Islands 11, 342-60, 342Gili Meno 352-6, 353,

36, 39accommodation 354-5activities 353-4beaches 353drinking & nightlife 355food 355information 356shopping 355-6travel to/from 356

Gili Trawangan 344-52, 345, 349, 11

accommodation 347-50activities 346-7beaches 345courses 347drinking & nightlife 352food 350-2information 352shopping 352travel to/from 352

Gomo 536Gorontalo 702-4graves 679, see also

cemeteries, tombsBatak Graves 529Kambira Baby Graves

687King Sidabutar’s Grave

528mass graves 543

Green Canyon 113-14guides 50Gunung Agung 283-5Gunung Api 16, 454, 16Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo

Reserve 190Gunung Batukau Area

302-3

Gunung Batur 305-6Gunung Batur region 303-

4, 304Gunung Bromo 142, 197-

200, 318, 2, 47, 319Gunung Inerie 384Gunung Kelud 194Gunung Kerinci 581Gunung Krakatau 88,

604-5Gunung Lawu 157-9Gunung Leuser National

Park 17, 554Gunung Merapi 144-6Gunung Palung National

Park 622Gunung Penanggungan 191Gunung Rinjani 333, 47Gunung Sibayak 524Gunung Sitoli, 535-6Gunung Tambora 365

HHarau Valley 577healers, see balianhealth 800-4hepatitis A 802hepatitis B 802hiking 26, 45-8

Amed 295Baliem Valley 500-1Baluran National Park

210Belaraghi Village Trek

385Bengkulu 584Borneo 611Bromo-Tengger-Semeru

National Park 201Bukit Kelam 617Bukit Lawang 519-20Candidasa 289Danau Tamblingan 300Danau Toba 529Gunung Agung 284Gunung Api 454Gunung Arjuna 191Gunung Batukau 302-3Gunung Batur 305-6Gunung Inerie 384Gunung Lawu 158Gunung Merapi 145Gunung Merbabu 145Gunung Papandayan 108Gunung Prau 119Gunung Rinjani 333, 334Gunung Welirang 191Ijen Plateau 202-3Kelimutu 390

Ketambe 555Komodo 370Loksado 636Mamasa 688Mentawai Islands 564-5Merabu 653Minahasa region 712Pulau Bunaken 708safety 48Samarinda 642Selo 147Senaru 333Southern Baliem Valley

504-5Taman Nasional Bali

Barat 313-14Tana Toraja 686Tangkahan 522Tirta Gangga 291, 294Tomohon 712Ujung Kulon National

Park 90Hilimaeta 538Hilinawalo Mazingo 536-7Hilisimaetano 538Hinduism 751-2historic buildings

Bale Kambang 282Benteng Nassau 450-1Eheng 649Gunongan 541Hatta’s House 450Istana Bogor 93Istana Mini 450Kertha Gosa 282Lawang Sewu 160Pagelaran Pavilion 128Schelling House 450Sendawar Ethnographic

Museum 649Syahbandar Menara 67Tjong A Fie Mansion 516

historic sitesAlongga Huby Mummy

502Batak Graves 529Karassik 679King Sidabutar’s Grave

528Stone Chairs 529Werapak Elosak Mummy

500Wimontok Mabel

Mummy 500Yeh Pulu 278

history 725-43Bali 213, 216Chinese settlers 727democracy 735-7, 740-2

Diponegoro War 731Dutch rule 730-2independence 733-5Jakarta 64-5Java 60-1Kalimantan 607New Order 737-40Pancasila 728Papua 465, 468, 739religion 727-9rulers 729-30Suharto 737-8Sulawesi 661Sumatra 512Susilo Bambang

Yudhoyono (SBY) 741-2

Timor-Leste 740trade 725-7Wahid, Abdurrahman 741Widodo, Joko 742-3WWII 733-4

hitching 798HIV 802holidays 787-8Homo erectus 60hot springs

Air Panas Soa 384Cipanas hot springs 96Gracia Spa 105Kawah Rengganis 106Lombongo Hot Springs

703Nusantara Hot Springs

689Pelangi 712Sari Ater Hot Spring

Resort 105Semangat Gunung 525Songgoriti 191

House of Danar Hadi 151House of Sampoerna 177

IIboih 548-9Ijen Plateau 201-3ikat 168, 758-60immigration 404

Papua 469Imogiri 142Indrayanti 143-4insurance 785, 797-8, 800internet access 785internet resources 21, 219

surfing 44Islam 747, 749-50Islamic Center 642islands 26itineraries 30-5

820

IND

EX J- L

JJailolo 433-4Jakarta 62-85, 63, 14

accommodation 74-6central Jakarta 67-70,

76, 68children, travel with 81Cikini 74-5, 78, 79-80, 82drinking & nightlife 14,

78-80entertainment 80-1festivals & events 73-4food 76-8Glodok 65-7, 76, 79, 66history 64-5information 82-3Jalan Jaksa area 74,

77-8, 75Kota 65-7, 76, 79, 66Menteng 74-5, 78, 79-

80, 82shopping 81-2sights 65-71south Jakarta 70-1, 76-7,

79, 81-2, 72tours 72-3travel to/from 83-4travel within 84-5west Jakarta 70-1

Jambi 592-5jamu 161Jantur 648Japanese B encephalitis

802jati 168Jatiluwih Rice Fields 302Java 55, 58-211, 59

accommodation 58activities 71-2Central Java 115, 116climate 58culture 61-2East Java 174-211, 175food 58highlights 59history 60-1itineraries 31travel to/from 62travel within 62West Java 86-115, 87

Java Man 60Java’s north coast 159-74Java’s south coast 142-4Jayapura 484-8, 485, 490

Jelenga 360-1Jember 205Jembrana Coast 317Jepara 168-70jewellery 761Jimbaran 244-5Jimbaran Beach 244Jimbaran Fish Market 244Jin De Yuan 65

KKalabahi 394-6Kalabahi region 396-8Kalala 414Kalibaru 204-5Kalimantan 56, 606-58,

608-9accommodation 606Central Kalimantan

622-32climate 606East Kalimantan 637-58food 606highlights 608history 607itineraries 33North Kalimantan 637,

658South Kalimantan 632-7travel seasons 606travel within 607, 610West Kalimantan 610-22wildlife 607

Kaliurang 144-6Kandangan 635-6Karimunjawa Islands 15,

170-4, 318, 318, 15accommodation 171-2activities 170-1festivals & events 171food 173information 173sights 170travel to/from 173travel within 173

Kartini, Raden Ajeng 169Kawah Ijen 202kayaking

Banyak Islands 552Raja Ampat Islands 476

Kebun Raya 92Kedah 556Kefamenanu 406-7Kefamenanu region 407Kei Islands 457-63, 458-9Kelimutu 389-90Kemuning 159Kendari 716-17, 717

Kepala Arus 506Kerinci Seblat National

Park 580-3Kerinci Valley 19, 578, 19Kerobokan 18, 237-9,

18, 292Kersik Tua 580Ketambe 554-6kitesurfing

Kuta (Lombok) 336-7Pantai Lakey 366Sanur 251

klotok travel 624Klungkung (Semarapura)

282Kolaka 715-16Komodo 369-71, 369Komodo dragons 371, 774Komodo National Park 11,

370, 10, 41Korowai 508Kota Ambon 437-42, 440

accommodation 439activities 439drinking & nightlife 441food 439-41information 441shopping 441sights 437travel to/from 442travel within 442

Kota Bangun 647-8Kota Biak 490-3Kota Gede 128Kota Saparua 445Kota Ternate 425-30, 425,

426accommodation 427-8food 428-9information 429shopping 429sights 425-7travel to/from 429travel within 430

Krakal Bay 143-4Krakatoa, see Gunung

KrakatauKraton 125kris 761Krui 599-600Kudus 167-8Kukup 143-4Kumai 627-8Kupang 399-403, 401

accommodation 400-1drinking & nightlife

401-2food 401information 402

shopping 402sights 399tours 400travel to/from 402, 403travel within 403

Kupang region 403-4Kuta (Bali) 222-31, 224,

226-7, 293accommodation 224-8activities 222, 224drinking & nightlife 229food 228-9information 230shopping 230sights 222travel to/from 230travel within 231

Kuta (Lombok) 335-9accommodation 337-8activities 336-7drinking & nightlife 338food 338information 338-9sights 336travel to/from 339travel within 339

Kuta region (Lombok) 339-41

Kuta Beach (Bali) 222Kutai National Park 651

LLabuan 89Labuan Bajo 24, 373-82,

376-7accommodation 377-9activities 374-5, 377drinking & nightlife 380food 379-80information 381shopping 381tours 377travel to/from 381-2travel within 382

Labuhan Lombok 341-2Lagoi 592Lake Jempang 648-9lakes

Danau Batur 304-5Danau Bratan 298-301,

299Danau Buyan 299-300Danau Gunung Tujuh

582Danau Habbema 502Danau Kaco 582Danau Kerinci 582Danau Laguna 424


821IN

DEX N

- MDanau Maninjau 575-7,

576Danau Poso 692Danau Segara Anak 332Danau Sentani 489-90Danau Sentarum

National Park 620Danau Tambing 693Danau Tamblingan

299-300Danau Tempe 674-5Danau Toba 527-33, 528Danau Tolire Besar 424Kawah Candradimuka

119Kawah Ijen 202Kawah Putih 106Kawah Sikidang 119Kawah Sileri 119Lake Jempang 648Situ Patengan 106Telaga Warna 118

Lampung 597-605Lampu’uk 549Langgur 457, 460language 20, 789-96Lease Islands 444-6, 444legal matters 785-6Legian 222-31, 224, 226-7

accommodation 224-5, 228-9

activities 222, 224drinking & nightlife 229food 228-9information 230shopping 230sights 222travel to/from 230travel within 231

Legong 275, 7Lembar 325Lembeh Strait 714Lempur Tengah 579-80lesbian travellers 786LGBT+ community 746LGBT+ travellers 786Lhok Nga 549Lingga 525liveaboards

Banda Islands 448Komodo 370Labuan Bajo 374-5Raja Ampat Islands 24,

473, 475, 479local languages 793Loksado 636-7Lombok 322-3, 323Lombok Forest Tour 344Long Bagun 650-1

longhouses 619Lore Lindu National Park

692-4Lovina 306-10, 308Luba 386Luwuk 696

Mmagic mushrooms 531Mahu 445Makale 687Makale region 687-8Makassar 662-8, 664

accommodation 663, 665

drinking & nightlife 666food 665-6shopping 666sights 663tourist information

666-7travel to/from 667-8travel within 668

Malang 184-9, 186, 190accommodation 185-7drinking & nightlife 188entertainment 188festivals & events 185food 187-8information 188sights 184-5tours 185travel to/from 188-9travel within 189

malaria 802Malino 668-9Maluk 361-2Maluku 56, 420-63, 421

accommodation 420climate 420food 420highlights 421North Maluku 422-36travel to/from 422travel within 422

Mamasa 689-90, 689Mamasa Valley 688-90Manado 704-7, 705Mancong 649Manokwari 480-3, 481Manokwari region 483-4maps 786Maratua Atoll 656-7Marimbati 434markets

Banjarmasin 634Bosnik 493floating markets 634

Ikat Market 388Jimbaran Fish Market

244Kota Saparua 445Market Apung 168Pasar (Ende) 388Pasar Baru 93Pasar Beringharjo 128Pasar Bolu 679Pasar Bunga 185Pasar Jibama 497Pasar Kedelang 395Pasar Klewer 156Pasar Malam 368Pasar Malam Hongkong

616Pasar Santa 82Pasar Terapung Kuin

634Pasar Terapung Lok

Baintan 634Pasar Triwindu 156Petak Sembilan Market

67Tomohon 711traditional market

(Oinlasi) 406Mas 278-9Maslete 407Masohi 446-7massages, see also spas

Bandung 101Denpasar 254Gili Trawangan 347Jakarta 71Labuan Bajo 375-6Senggigi 328-9

Mataram 323-5Maumere 392-3measures 786Medan 513-19, 514-15

accommodation 516drinking & nightlife 517food 516-17information 517-18sights 513-16tours 516travel to/from 518-19travel within 519

Medewi 317medical services 800-1Melak 649-50Mendut Temple &

Monastery 122Mentawai Islands 563-70,

564accommodation 566-8activities 564-6information 568

travel to/from 568, 569travel within 568-70

Mentawaian people 567Merabu 653-4Merak 88Merauke 504-6Merdeka Square 67Meru Betiri National Park

205-6Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman

541Minangkabau people

558, 572mobile phones 20, 789money 20, 21, 786-7money changers 787Moni 390-1monuments

Bajra Sandhi Monument 254

Gunung Kawi 280Makam Bung Karno

193-4Monumen Irian Jaya

Pembebasan 70Monumen Nasional 70Tugu Khatulistiwa 611Tugu MacArthur 490

mosquesIslamic Center 642Islamic Center Nusa

Tenggara Barat 324, 748

Majolica Ulama Indonesia 427

Masjid Agung At-Taqwa 638

Masjid al Akbar 177Masjid Istiqlal 70, 757Masjid Raya al-Fatah

438-9Masjid Sultan Suriansyah

632Mesjid Abdurrahman 611Mesjid Agung 167Mesjid Agung Pondok

Tinggi 578Mesjid Al-Manar 167Mesjid Jamik 183Mesjid Raya 515Mesjid Raya Baiturrah-

man 541Mesjid Raya Sabilal

Muhtadin 632Mesjid Wapaue 443

motorcycle travel 797-8mountains 495

Carstensz Pyramid 495Gunung Agung 283, 285Gunung Api 16, 424,

454, 16

822

IND

EX M- N

mountains continuedGunung Api Gamalama

430Gunung Ara 370Gunung Arjuna 190Gunung Batur 46, 303

304Gunung Bromo 197, 318,

2, 47, 319Gunung Gede 97Gunung Halimun 95Gunung Inerie 384Gunung Iya 387Gunung Krakatau 604Gunung Lawu 157Gunung Lempuyang 294Gunung Marapi 570Gunung Meja 387Gunung Merapi 144Gunung Palung 622Gunung Papandayan 107Gunung Penanggungan

191Gunung Prau 119Gunung Rinjani 332, 47Gunung Semeru 200Gunung Sibayak 524Gunung Singgalang 572Gunung Tambora 365Gunung Trikora 495Kelimutu 389Puncak Jaya 495

Muara Jambi 592-4Muara Muntai 648Muller Mountains 651multiculturalism 746-7, see

also cultureMunduk 300-2Museum Bahari Bintan 591Museum Bank Indonesia

65Museum Layang-Layang

70-1Museum Le Mayeur 251Museum Macan 70Museum Nasional 67, 69Museum of North Suma-

tra 515Museum Pusaka Nias 535museums & galleries

Affandi Museum 128-9Agung Rai Museum of

Art 263Ambarawa Train Station

Museum 166

BIASA ArtSpace 231Blambangan Museum

209Dream Museum Zone

222Galeri Nasional 69Hotel Tugu Malang 185House of Danar Hadi 151House of Sampoerna 177Istana Kadriah 611Jasa Menenun Mandiri

617Jogja National Museum

128Keraton 425-6Merapi Volcano Museum

144Mulawarman Museum

646Museum Asi Mbojo 367Museum Bahari 67Museum Bahari Bintan

591Museum Balanga 628Museum Bank Indonesia

65Museum Bank Mandiri

65-7Museum Huta Bolon

Simanindo 529Museum Kailasa Dieng

119Museum Kapal

Samurrarska 122Museum Kapuas Raya

617Museum Kareta Kraton

128Museum Karolingga 525Museum Layang-Layang

70Museum Le Mayeur 251Museum Loka Budaya

485Museum Macan 70Museum Nasional 67, 69Museum Negeri Banda

Aceh 541Museum Negeri La

Galigo 663Museum Negeri Propinsi

Bali 254Museum of North

Sumatra 515Museum Nusa Tenggara

Timur 399-400Museum Pinawetengan

711Museum Provinsi Kalim-

antan Barat 611Museum Puri Lukisan

266

Museum Pusaka Karo 524Museum Pusaka Nias

535-6Museum RA Kartin 168Museum Rudana 279Museum Sang Nila

Utama 587Museum Sejarah Jakarta

65Museum Seni Rupa Dan

Keramik 67Museum Seribu Moko

395Museum Siginjai 594Museum Siwalima 437Museum Sulawesi

Tengah 694Museum Tekstil 71Museum Wayang 65Neka Art Museum 265Pasifika Museum 249Pura Puncak Penulisan

303Radya Pustaka Museum

151Ronggowarsito Museum

161Royal Carriage-House

Museum 183RUCI Art Space &

Cafe 71Rumah Budaya 450Sangiran Museum of

Ancient Man 151Selasar Sunaryo Art

Space 100-1Setia Darma House of

Mask and Puppets 279Sono-Budoyo Museum

128Sonyine Malige 431State Museum of Beng-

kulu Province 584Tonyraka Art Lounge 279Ullen Sentalu 146

music 724, 753-4

NNabire 494-5Nagoya 588-9Namano 446national parks & reserves

776Aketajawe-Lolobata

National Park 436Baluran National Park

210-11Batang Palupuh Nature

Reserve 570Batur Caldera Geopark

303

Betung Kerihun National Park 618

Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 703

Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 197-201

Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 605

Danau Sentarum National Park 620

fees 610Gede Pangrango

National Park 97-8Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo

Reserve 190Gunung Halimun

National Park 95Gunung Leuser National

Park 519, 554Gunung Merapi National

Park 144, 146Gunung Palung National

Park 622Kayan Mentarang

National Park 658Komodo National Park

11, 370, 10, 41Kutai National Park 651Lore Lindu National Park

692-4Mangrove Boardwalk

170Manusela National Park

446Meru Betiri National

Park 205Pangandaran National

Park 108-9Sebangau National Park

631-2Seventeen Islands

Marine Park 386Taman Arboretum Sylva

610Taman Nasional Bali

Barat 313-14Taman Nasional Teluk

Cenderawasih 494Taman Wisata Alam

Kerandangan 330Tangkoko-Batuangas

Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 714-15

Tanjung Puting National Park 13, 622-5, 13, 49

Togean Islands National Park 24, 701

Ujung Kulon National Park 89-91

Wakatobi National Park 719

Way Kambas National Park 602-4


823IN

DEX N

- Pnatural disasters 697, 723-4Neka Art Museum 265Nemberala 408-9Nemberala region 409Nest 354newspapers 786None 405-6north Bali 306-14, 307North Highlands 684North Kalimantan 637,

658North Lowlands 685North Maluku 422-36North Sulawesi 702-15North Sumatra 513-34Northern Leihitu 443-4northern Papua 484-95Northern Seram 447-50Nusa Ceningan 261-2Nusa Dua 249-50Nusa Lembongan 257-

63, 259Nusa Penida 262-3Nusa Tenggara 55, 320-

419, 321accommodation 320climate 320food 320highlights 321itineraries 31travel to/from 322

Nyepi 216

OOebelo 404Oesao 404Ohoidertawun 461-2Oinlasi 406ojeks 798Old City (Semarang) 160-1opening hours 21orang pendek 581Orang Rimba people 593orang-utans 623, 640, 774,

13, 49

PPacitan 194Padaido Islands 493-4Padang 558-62, 560

accommodation 559drinking & nightlife 561festivals & events 559food 559-60information 561shopping 561sights 558-9tours 559

travel to/from 561-2travel within 562

Padang Padang 246-7, 45Padangbai 285-8, 287Paga 391-2painting 754palaces

Dalam Loka 363Grand Palace of

Pagaruyuang 574-5Istana Kuning 626Istana Maimoon 515Istana Merdeka 69-70Istana Pangeran

Mangkubumi 626Istano Silinduang Bulan

575Kraton (Yogyakarta) 125Kraton (Bau Bau) 717Kraton (Sumenep) 183Kraton Surakarta 151Mangkunegaran Palace

151Puri Agung Karangasem

290Puri Agung Semarapura

282Rumah Bolon 525Taman Sari 127-8Ubud Palace 266

Palangka Raya 628-31, 628-9

Palembang 596-7Palu 694-5, 694Pampang Dayak

ceremonies 645Panataran 193-4Pancasila 728Pangandaran 108-13, 110

accommodation 109-11activities 109drinking & nightlife 112food 111-12information 112shopping 112sights 108-9tours 109travel to/from 112travel within 113

Pangandaran region 113-14Pangkalan Bun 625-8, 626pantai, see beachesPantai Anggopi 493Pantai Annora 170Pantai Areguling 336Pantai Bama 210Pantai Bandengan 168Pantai Base G 485-6Pantai Batu Topeng 170

Pantai Bira 669-72, 670Pantai Bungus 562-3Pantai Daftel 463Pantai Indrayanti 143Pantai Kajoli 430Pantai Kartini 169Pantai Keramas 285Pantai Koka 392Pantai Kukup 144Pantai Kupa Kupa 432Pantai Lakey 366-7Pantai Luari 433Pantai Maimol 395Pantai Mawan 336Pantai Ngurtavur 461Pantai Ohoidertutu 462Pantai Paga 391Pantai Panjang 584Pantai Pasir Putih

(Candidasa) 289Pantai Pasir Putih

(Manokwari) 480Pantai Segara Indah 493Pantai Seger 336Pantai Sorake 539Pantai Tanjung Gelam 170Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang

258Pantai Tarimbang 414Pantai Tedis 399Pantar 397Papua 56, 464-508, 466-7

accommodation 464climate 464culture 468food 464highlights 466history 465, 468, 739itineraries 32northern Papua 484-95southern Papua 504-8safety 470tours 469-70travel seasons 464travel to/from 470west Papua 470-84

Papua travel permit 469Parapat 527Pare Pare 675parks & gardens

Bali Botanic Garden 298Kebun Raya 92Kebun Raya Cibodas 97Kebun Raya Purwodadi

190Taman Burung & Taman

Anggrek 493Taman Tirta Gangga 291

Pasemah Highlands 598

Pasifika Museum 249Pasir Panjang 462-3passports 793Pattimura (Thomas

Matulessy) 445Pegunungan Arfak 483-4Pelompek 580Pemuteran 310-12peoples

Bajau 702Batak 530Dani 495-6, 500, 503, 17Mentawaian 567Minangkabau 558, 572Orang Rimba 593Toraja 678-9

Pero 419photography 787Pianynemo 14, 474, 14pig feasts 502planning, see

also individual regionsbudgeting 20calendar of events 27-9family travel 52-4itineraries 30-5new visitors 22-3regions 55-6repeat visitors 24travel seasons 20, 38

plants 582, 607, 775politics 722Pontianak 610-16, 612

accommodation 612-14drinking & nightlife 614festivals & events 612food 614information 614shopping 614sights 610tours 611-12travel to/from 614-16travel within 616

population 723Poso 692postal services 787Poto Tano 360Praiyawang 413-14Praya 335Probolinggo 195-7public holidays 787-8public transport 798-9Pulau Ai 456Pulau Ambon 436-44, 437Pulau Asei 490Pulau Asok 552Pulau Balai 552Pulau Banda Besar 454

824

IND

EX P- S

Pulau Bangkaru 551Pulau Batam 588-9Pulau Batu Daka 699Pulau Biak 490-4, 491, 492Pulau Binongko 720Pulau Bintan 589-90Pulau Bunaken 15, 707-11,

708, 15Pulau Derawan 654-6Pulau Gunung Api 454-5Pulau Halmahera 431-6,

432Pulau Hatta 455-6Pulau Hoga 720Pulau Kadidiri 699-700Pulau Kakaban 657Pulau Kaledupa 720Pulau Kei Kecil 460-3Pulau Laman 552Pulau Lambodong 552Pulau Lembeh 714Pulau Liukang Loe 672-3Pulau Madura 182-4Pulau Maitara 430Pulau Malenge 701-2Pulau Mansinam 480Pulau Mare 430Pulau Menjangan 311Pulau Molana 445Pulau Morotai 24, 435Pulau Moyo 364-5Pulau Ndana 409Pulau Neilaka 456Pulau Nias 534-9, 535Pulau Palambak Besar 551Pulau Penyenget 590Pulau Ragu-Ragu 552Pulau Run 456Pulau Sangalaki 657Pulau Saparua 444-6Pulau Selayar 673Pulau Sempu 192Pulau Seram 446-7, 446Pulau Sikandang 551Pulau Siladen 707-11Pulau Simeulue 550Pulau Tabuhan 209Pulau Tailana 552Pulau Tanimbar Kei 463Pulau Ternate 423-30, 424Pulau Tidore 430-1, 430Pulau Togean 700-1Pulau Tomia 720Pulau Tuangku 551

Pulau Una Una 700Pulau Walea Kodi 702Pulau Wangi Wangi 719-20Pulau Weh 24, 318, 545-9,

318puppets 761puras 26, see also temples

Pura Batu Bolong 327-8Pura Besakih 283-4Pura Dalem Penetaran

Ped 262Pura Jagatnatha 254Pura Kehen 282Pura Lempuyang 24,

291, 294Pura Lingsar 324Pura Luhur Batukau 302Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 247,

293, 54, 293Pura Meru 324Pura Pancering Jagat

304Pura Petitenget 231Pura Puseh 258Pura Puseh Desa Batu-

bulan 279-80Pura Rambut Siwi 317Pura Taman Ayun 316Pura Taman Saraswati

265-6Pura Tanah Lot 314-15Pura Tirta Empul 280,

748Pura Ulun Danu Bratan

298Puri Agung Semarapura

282Purwodadi 190Putussibau 618-20

Rrabies 802rafting

Bukit Lawang 520Ketambe 555Loksado 637

Raha 718Raja Ampat Islands 14,

472-80, 473, 14, 41accommodation 476-80activities 472-6travel to/from 480

Ramadan 749Rantepao 678-83, 680Rantepao region 685-7Rantung Beach 362-3Ratenggaro 419religion 747, 749-52

Buddhism 751-2

Christianity 750-1Hinduism 751-2Islam 747, 749-50offerings 217Wektu Telu 332

Rende 413-14reserves, see national

parks & reservesresponsible travel 788rhinoceros 91Riau 586-92Rinca 372, 369Riung 386-7river surfing 506rivers

Sungai Kapuas 12, 617, 12

Sungai Mahakam 645-51Sungai Penuh 578-9Sungai Pinang 562-3

rock climbing 50-1Rote 407-9Ruteng 382-3

SSabang 546-7safety 23, 140, 788-9

alcohol poisoning 788boat travel 796diving 40environmental hazards

803hiking 48natural disasters 697Papua 470

sago 508Samarinda 642-5, 643Sangihe-Talaud Islands 716Sangiran Museum of

Ancient Man 151Sanur 251-3, 252Sape 368-9sasi 461Sauwandarek Jetty 474Sebangau National Park

631-2Seblat Elephant Conserva-

tion Centre 584Sedahan 621Sekumpul Waterfall 312-13Selasar Sunaryo Art Space

100Selo 146-7Selong Blanak 340-1Semangat Gunung 525-7Semarang 160-6, 162-3

accommodation 161-3activities 161drinking & nightlife 164

entertainment 165food 163-4information 165sights 160-1travel to/from 165travel within 166

Semarapura, see Klung-kung (Semarapura)

Sembalun Valley 334Seminyak 231-7, 232-3

accommodation 233-4activities 231, 233drinking & nightlife

235-6food 234-5information 237shopping 236-7sights 231travel to/from 237

Seminyak Beach 231Senaru 332-4Sendangbiru 192Senggarang 590-1Senggigi 327-31, 328

accommodation 329activities 328-9drinking & nightlife 330food 329-30sights 327-8travel to/from 330-1travel within 331

Sengkang 674-5Senopi 484Sentani 488-9, 489Sentani region 489-90,

490Setia Darma House of

Mask & Puppets 279Seventeen Islands 387shopping 23, see also

individual regionsSibolga 533-4Sidemen 282-3Singaraja 312-13Singkawang 616-17Singkil 549-51Sintang 617-18Sire 331smoking 786snorkelling 25, 42-3, see

also divingAmed 294-5Banda Islands 448, 42Banyak Islands 552Crocodile Head 364Derawan Archipelago 654Gili Air 356Gili Meno 353-4Gili Trawangan 346


825IN

DEX S

- TLabuan Bajo 374-5Lovina 308-9Northern Seram 447Padangbai 285-6Pasir Panjang 462Pemuteran 310-11Pulau Bunaken 709Pulau Hatta 455Pulau Kadidiri 699Pulau Kei Kecil 461Pulau Satonda 364Pulau Weh 545Raja Ampat Islands 475Senggigi 328Southwest Gilis 327Tangkoko-Batuangas


Tulamben 297Soasio 430-1Soe 404-5Soe region 405-6Sofifi 433Solo 150-7, 152

accommodation 153-4activities 151courses 151drinking & nightlife 155entertainment 155festivals & events 153food 154-5information 156shopping 155-6sights 151tours 152-3travel to/from 156-7travel within 157

Sorong 471-2south Bali 243-63, 223South Kalimantan 632-7South Sulawesi 662-88South Sumatra 595-7Southeast Sulawesi 715-20Southern Kei Kecil 462Southern Leitimur 442southern Papua 504-8southwest beaches 222-39,

223Southwest Gilis 326-7Southwestern Peninsula

325-6spas

Jakarta 71-2Kota Ambon 439Kuta (Bali) 224Labuan Bajo 375, 377Seminyak 231-2Senggigi 328-9Ubud 267

Spice Wars 457Spider Web Rice Fields 382sport 752Sriwedari Theatre 155St Joseph’s Cathedral 610street food 135Sukadana 620-2Sulawesi 56, 659-720

accommodation 659Central Sulawesi

690-702climate 659earthquake 690food 659highlights 660history 661North Sulawesi 702-15Southeast Sulawesi

715-20South Sulawesi 662-88travel to/from 661travel within 661-2tsunami 690

sulphur gatherers 202Sumatra 56, 509-605,

510-11accommodation 509climate 509food 509highlights 510, 510-11history 512itineraries 31North Sumatra 513-34South Sumatra 595-7travel to/from 512travel within 512-13West Sumatra 557-83,

557Sumba 409-19, 410Sumbawa 360-9Sumbawa Besar 363-4Sumenep 183-4, 184sun bears 640Sunan Kudus Tomb 167-8Sungai Kapuas 12, 617, 12Sungai Mahakam 645-51Sungai Penuh 578-9Sungai Pinang 562-3Surabaya 174-81, 176

accommodation 178courses 178drinking & nightlife

179-80entertainment 180food 179shopping 180sights 174-7travel to/from 180travel within 180-1

surfing 26, 43-5Banyak Islands 552Batu Karas 114Cimaja 96Gerupuk 339Gili Trawangan 347G-land 207internet resources 44Kepala Arus 506Krui 599Kuta (Kuta) 222Kuta (Lombok) 337Lombok 336Mentawai Islands 565-6Nusa Lembongan 258Pacitan 194Padang Padang 246, 45Pangandaran 109Pantai Lakey 366Pantai Mawi 340Pantai Medewi 317Seminyak 233Sumatra’s west coast

537surf tax 566Tanjung Setia 599Telo Islands 538Ujung Kulon National

Park 91Ulu Watu 247Watu Karang 195

sustainable tourism 351swamp buffalo cowboys

636

TTaka Bonerate Islands 673Taman Fatahillah 65Taman Nasional Bali Barat

313-14Taman Nasional Teluk

Cenderawasih 494Taman Sari 127-8Taman Tirta Gangga 291Taman Wisata Alam Keran-

dangan 330Tambakrejo 192Tambolaka 417-19Tambrauw 484Tampaksiring 280Tana Toraja 12, 675-88,

676-7activities 677, 686coffee 684entrance fees 681funeral ceremonies

678-9guides 682tourist information 677

travel to/from 677, 687travel within 678

Tangkahan 522-3Tangkoko-Batuangas

Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 714-15

Tanjung Benoa 250-1Tanjung Isuy 649Tanjung Karang 695Tanjung Pinang 590Tanjung Puting National

Park 13, 622-5, 13, 49Tanjung Setia 599-600tarsiers 715Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue

713tau tau 679, 757Tawangmangu 159-60taxis 799tea 770Telaga Warna 118telephone services 20, 789Telo Islands 538Teluk Dalam 539Teluk Lagundri 539Temkessi 407temples 26, 217, see

also purasArjuna Complex 119Banyan Tree Temple 591Borobudur 19, 120-4,

318, 19, 318Candi Bima 118Candi Cetho 158-9Candi Jabung 196Candi Jago 190Candi Kidal 189-90Candi Muara Takus 586Candi Pawon 122Candi Sambisari 149Candi Singosari 189Candi Sukuh 157Candi Sumberawan 189Gedung Batu 160Gunung Kawi Sebatu

280Panataran Hindu

temples 193-4Jin De Yuan 65Kienteng Ban Hian

Kong 704Kong Co Kong Tik Cun

Ong temple 177Mendut Temple &

Monastery 122Plaosan Temples 149Prambanan 147-50Soetji Nurani Temple 632Sun Tien Kong Chinese

Temple 451

826

IND

EX T- Y

temples continuedTaman Alam Lumbini 525Vihara Dharma Sasana

591Tenggarong 646-7Tentena 690-2Tering 650Tetebatu 334-5textile 758-60theatre 155, 753theft 789Thousand Islands 85-6time 20, 789-90Timor-Leste 404, 740Tiong Ohang 650tipping 23Tirta Gangga 290-1, 294Tobelo 434-5Togean Islands 16, 697-702,

698, 16toilets 790Tololela 386tombs, see also

cemeteries, gravesLemo 686, 12Lo’ko’ Mata 684Londa 686Pana’ 684Tampang Allo 687

Tomohon 711-13topeng masks 760Toraja (people) 678-9tourism 724tourist information 790train travel 799travel to/from Indonesia

793-4travel within Indonesia

794-9trekking, see hikingTrikora 591-2Triton Bay 483Trowulan 181-2tsunamis 543, 690Tual 457-60, 460Tulamben 296-7turtles 222, 310, 657typhoid 803

UUbud 17, 263-78, 264-5,

268-9, 17accommodation 270-2activities 266, 264

courses 266-7drinking & nightlife 273-4entertainment 274-5festivals & events 270food 272-3information 276-7shopping 275-6sights 263-6tours 267, 280travel to/from 277travel within 277-8

Ubud Monkey Forest 266Ubud region 263-80Ujung Kulon National Park

89-91Ulu Watu 247-8, 248Ungasan 249USAT Liberty 297

Vvacations 787-8vaccinations 801vegan travellers 767, 769vegetarian travellers

767, 769visas 20, 790-1

Papua 469volcanoes 16, 773-4

Gunung Api 16, 454, 16Gunung Api Gamalama

430Gunung Arjuna 190Gunung Batur 305Gunung Bromo 197, 318,

47, 319Gunung Dempo 598Gunung Dukono 432Gunung Inerie 384Gunung Kelud 194Gunung Kerinci 581Gunung Krakatau

(Sumatra) 604Gunung Krakatau

(Krakatoa) 88Gunung Lawu 157Gunung Marapi 570Gunung Merapi 144, 145Gunung Papandayan

107, 108Gunung Rinjani 332, 47Gunung Sibayak 524Gunung Sinabung 525Gunung Singgalang 572Gunung Tambora 365,

366Tangkuban Prahu 105

volunteering 475, 621,

791-2

WWae Rebo 383Waiara 393Waikabubak 415-17, 416Waingapu 411-13Wakatobi Islands 718-20walking, see also hiking

Gili Trawangan 347Komodo 370Sidemen 282Taman Gunung Meja 480Tangkoko-Batuangas


Wamena 496-9, 498Wanokaka 419warrior dances 502Wasur National Park 506-7Watampone 673-4water sports 51waterfalls 301

Air Terjun Cubanrondo 192

Air Terjun Oehala 405Air Terjun Piala &

Laumarang 696Air Terjun Saluopa 690Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso

525Air Terjun Tanggedu 412Air Terjun Telun Berasap

582Air Terjun Waimarang

413Banyu Wana Amertha

Waterfalls 300Banyumala Twin Water-

falls 300Mata Jitu Waterfall 364Munduk Waterfall 300Sekumpul Waterfall

312-13Watu Karang 195Wawo Muda 386Way Kambas National Park

602-4Wayag 473weather 20, 38websites, see internet

resourcesWeekuri Lagoon 417weights 786Wektu Telu 332west Bali 314-17, 315West Java 86-115, 87West Kalimantan 610-22

west Papua 470-84West Sumatra 557-83, 557West Sumba 414West Timor 398-407, 399Western Leihitu 443-4whale sharks 197whitewater rafting 45, 712wildlife, see animalswildlife parks & reserves

Bali Bird Park 280Bali Reptile Park 280Sadengan 206Sukamade Turtle Beach

205-6wildlife watching 48-50

Tanjung Puting National Park 624

Way Kambas National Park 603

Gorontalo 703Wodong 394women in Indonesia 752women travellers 792

health 804Wonosobo 117-18woodcarving 756, 758work 792

YYali Country 502-4yoga

Gapang 547Gili Air 356-7Gili Meno 354Gili Trawangan 347Jakarta 71Kuta (Lombok) 336Sanur 251-2Seminyak 233Ubud 267

Yogyakarta 124-42, 126, 131, 133

accessible travel 139accommodation 130-4activities 129courses 129drinking & nightlife 136entertainment 136-7festivals & events 130food 134-6information 140planning 125shopping 137-39sights 125tours 129-30travel to/from 140travel within 141-2Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

827N

OTES

828

NO

TES

829

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Stuart Butler East and West Java, Thousand Islands Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Con-golese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. And he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely

Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest France with his wife and two young children.

Sofia Levin East Nusa Tenggara A Melbourne-based food and travel journalist, Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the simplest way to understand a culture. She has a stomach of steel and the ability to sniff out local haunts. Aside from trawling Melbourne as the Lonely Planet Local, she also co-authors guide-books and writes for Fairfax newspapers and travel magazines. When she’s not travelling or eating, Sofia runs copywriting and social media company Word Salad

and spreads smiles with her Insta- famous poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Find her on Instagram and Twitter (@sofiaklevin).

Virginia Maxwell Ubud & East Bali Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediter-ranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for LP – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the US and Australia for LP products. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.


Mark Johanson Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe report-ing for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gaz-ing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com.

MaSovaida Morgan Bali MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years, and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and the United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Jenny Walker Central Java A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Jenny Walker has travelled to more than 125 countries and has been writing for Lonely Planet for nearly 20 years. Currently working in Oman as Deputy CEO of Oman Academic Accreditation Authority, her MPhil thesis focused on the Arabic Orient in British Literature (Oxford University) and her PhD (nearing completion) is on the Arabian desert as trope.

Ray Bartlett Sulawesi Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook (@ Ray

BartlettAuthor), Twitter and Instagram (@kaisoradotcom). Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Loren Bell Sulawesi When Loren first backpacked through Europe he was in the backpack. That memorable experience corrupted his six-month-old brain, ensuring he would never be happy sitting still. His penchant for peregrination has taken him from training dogsled teams in the Tetons to chasing gibbons in the jungles of Borneo – with only brief pauses for silly ‘responsible’ things like earning degrees. When he’s not demystifying destinations for Lonely Planet, Loren writes about

science and conservation news. He camps in the Rocky Mountains where he probably spends too much time on his mountain bike and skis.

Jade Bremner Jakarta Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favourite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel maga-zines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times, and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this

wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure. Follow her on Twitter @jadebremner.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98312th edition – July 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 477 0© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

David Eimer Maluku David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of news-papers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely

Planet since 2006. David also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Paul Harding Kalimantan As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Ashley Harrell Papua After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tour-ism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing

for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became more exotic and farther flung, and she still laughs when paycheques arrive.

Trent Holden Sumatra A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on

safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a free-lance editor and reviewer, and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

OUR WRITERS

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

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