VISVESVARAYA1

TEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENTWe acknowledge

Prof.Dr.S.S.Ramatal,

Principal,

Govt.S.K.S.J.T.I,Bangalore, our thanks and indebted gratitude for guidance at everystage while bringing out this report. Also we would like to thank our induction buddies for their constant support throughout our training period. Their guidance, support and help have made it possible to finish our training successfully. We would like to thank Mr.MAHADEVEGOWDA, H.R. Manager and

Ms.PAVITHRA of Shahi Exports Pvt.Ltd. for allowing us to do the training atUnit 4. We would like to specially thank Mr.JAMEEL AHAMED IED, & IED ASSISTANTS, for guiding us to observe all the functions in various departments. We express our heart full thanks to all the STAFF and WORKERS of the

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore.Lastly, we would wish to express our sincere thanks to all those who have directly and indirectly helped in bringing out this report successfully.

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CONTENTS

Acknowledgment Introduction HR department Merchandizing and Planning Stores Fabric Sampling and CAD Cutting Production

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Kaja button Finishing and Packing Testing Washing Maintenance

INTRODUCTION

The garment industry has emerged as a dynamic and booming industry. This trade has got socio-economic importance as it is essentially a labor in extensive industry and has the potential to generate wide spread employment particularly of rural and backward areas. It is a young and thrust industry having made its presence felt only from last two decades. The rapid growth of this industry in the last few years revealed the massive export potential.

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The entrepreneur are setting up new factories and trying to employ more and more professional to take care of senior positions of their organization. At present as there is huge competition in the garment industry; there is need for trained workers at basic product level. Hence massive training programs are required at gross route levels. To teach the various technical stages of garment making. Companies should also gear up with sophisticated machineries and proper infrastructure with pleasant environment to take care of the required quality standards and to meet the stiff competition in the international market. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd has been started at 1992. Shahi at present have 21 branches in Bangalore only. It has its main unit (3) in Faridabad (Delhi) and newly opened unit is in Hyderabad. It has separate units for woven and knits. It stands 1st position for profit and stand 4th in overall rating. It has divided its units based on the nature of garment production. They are: LFD ( Ladies Fashion Division) LSD ( Ladies Standard Division) MNB ( Men and Boys) Now the clothing has not only remained as a means of cover the body but become Fashion, a Dignity. In this era of transition and Globalization, Garments Industries are becoming highly competitive in the Global Market & heading towards adopting quality standards norms to improve the productivity, profitability to grow in the market & to satisfy the customer requirements in every aspect. This training work is a small step to study the Process Flow in Garment Industry. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., granted permission to carry out the training in Unit 7 one of its 16 exports Units in Bangalore. Finally, the intention of training is to understand to deal with various processes and practically work.., methodologies that are followed in Garment Industry.

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Garment flow: Buyer order Spec sheet Manual pattern and digitizing Computer pattern Sample Approved pattern Grading Marker plan Fabric Fabric inspection Laying Cutting Numbering and bundling Production Finishing Packing Dispatching

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Organization Hierarchy:General Manager

Factory manager

H. R team

Merchandising Planning Executive Production Fabric and cutting/ fusing Sampling and CAD IED Quality Maintenance Finishing Stores Administration

Senior H R

Accounts

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HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

H.R. PLANNING is the planning of forecasting, developing and controlling by which a firm ensures that it has the right number of people and right kind of people at the right places at the right time doing work for which they are economically most usefully. The recruitment of workers is done according to the need. Human Resource Planning or Man Power Planning is synonymous. It incorporates all Human being at all stages in the organization. It is essentially concerned in the process of estimating and projecting the supply and demand for different categories of personal in the organization for years to come.

STAFF :HR manager 1 Senior executive HR 3 HR executives 7

PERSONNAL AND ADMINISTRATION:RESPONSIBILITIES: 1. Recruiting qualified personnel, as and when the need arises from departments (as directed by management). 2. Identification of training needs in co-ordination with functional heads. 3. To appraise the top management about work environment, infrastructure. 4. To ensure effectiveness of training for the employees. 5. To ensure safety requirements. 6. To ensure safety welfare aspects. 7. Crche for the children of workers is been well maintained. 8. Dispensaries are been in the company to treat the sick workers.

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9. Well maintained canteen is been run.

AUTHORITY:1. Representing CDEL with external bodies such as Govt. Departments, such as EPF, ESI Labor department, LIC and inspector of factories. 2. Finalizing staff welfare-privileges such as loan, recurring deposit accounts, and vehicle loans. 3. Signing of ESI, PF, monthly returns, bonus returns. 4. Signing of Appointment letters, confirmation letters, Notices, etc relating to employees. 5. Renewal of factory licenses safety devices such as fire extinguishers. 6. Signing of monthly statement.

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MERCHANDISINGINTRODUCTION:Merchandising is the term used to signify articles for sale. Fashion merchandising includes all the planning and activities necessary to supply the fashion wants and needs of retail Customers, in the past fashion merchandising was usually associated only with womans apparel and accessories. The main activities of retailing are to buy and sell goods simply put the detail activities performed by a retail executive a buyer who plans and sells. Merchandisers must be capable of calculating the cost of producing each garment, determining selling prices, preparing statistical forecast based upon incoming sales data analyzing spreadsheets that are used to follow the status of fabric and production orders and evaluating financial statements. Merchandising includes the following process:

Prospecting Sampling Order processing Buyers styles, fabrics, accessories and trims Production planning and control Load planning, production, quality control Inventory production units and job workers Shipment and logistics Letter of credit processing, quota, dispatch Banks and Currency Shipping Clearing Agent Management10

Order Status Costing Profit and Loss Delivery Schedule Capacity Utilization Buyers Status Quality and Rejects Finance and Personnel NEGOTIATION:The Negotiation is like updating of data between buyer and manufacturer. After procuring the buyer, the manufacturer will give the sample according to the buyer specifications and then he will quote the price for the product. Here the buyer thinks the right quality with low price; the manufacturer thinks best quality with affordable price. After getting the buyer, the supplier should commit with him. He should not start the production until the buyer gives an order. First the supplier will prepare the samples according to his PROTO SAMPLES. The buyer/buying agent should approve every thing in sample. Supplier must take care that all the samples approved by the buyer should be kept in written format signed by the buyer. After samples approval from the buyer/buying agent, the buyer will give an order to the manufacturer, at the same time shipment date also mentioned. Some of the buyers will de explained neatly regarding garment manufacturing. The manufacturer should go through the buyers manual; if they satisfied with their standards then he should proceeds further otherwise he can drop the order.

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Buyer manual consist of from beginning to the end how to communicate with them (buyer) from sampling to delivery, each and every thing will be written. Example: Type of stitches should be in the garment, where should be lab Testing should be done , how the lab reports to be sent, how packing of all the samples should be sent, type of packing materials be used , sizes of the packing cartoons, quality checking parameters, etc. After getting approval from the buyer the supplier will go ahead for bulk production. Then the productions will starts.

Merchandising: Planning H R team Purchase Accounts Stores Documentation Sampling Production

PLANNING:Production planning and control is the first and most important process which involves scheduling and smooth processing of the departments that includes all processes used in production of the garment till shipment. There are 2 types of planning: Central planning Unit planning

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A central department is needed to collect & analyze the control information from each production unit in order to report on individual and overall achievements. The production department has to control every major stage of producing the garments up to this entry into the ware house. Unit planning is concerned with planning in each and every department in a unit.

OBJECTIVES: Planning helps in smooth functioning of all processes of company. It gives estimation of appropriate time consumption of each and every process till the shipment.

ACTIVITIES:The production planning & control involves the following steps, 1). Planning 2). Routing 3). Schedule 4). Dispatching 5). Follow up 6). Inspection

PLANNING: Planning is the first step to be taken for looking ahead or anticipating difficulties and taking next steps. It is an essential pre-requisite to production control.

ROUTING: Routing is the planning activity which is undertaken to determine the best route for manufacturing a certain product.

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SCHEDULING: The next phase of production planning and control is scheduling, which involves the assignment of starting and completion times for the various operations to be performed.

DISPATCHING: The dispatching function involves the actual granting of permission to proceed according to plans already laid down.

FOLLOW UP OR EXPEDITING: Once production has been set in motion it is necessary to check that it is proceeding according to the plan. The follow up function of the production planning & control ensures that production proceeds along expected lines.

INSPECTION: Production control is not only relating to the goods produced on time, but also to see that goods are of good quality. This is maintained through out of the product of the manufacturing of the manufacturing process. Inspectors must inspect the material process, some finished product, fixtures used either at the work station or testing room.

SLAB FOR PLANNING: 0-1500 1500-3000 3000-5000 5000-8000 8000-12000 12000-30000 30000 & above 30% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60% 65%

FORMULA:Productivity @ 100% = 480min * no. of machines required Operator samp

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Fabric record details: Buyer: Style: Item: Code & color: Order quantity %: TOQ: Conquered: Required in mts: Balance: Fabric issued: Sample: O/unit:

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STORES DEPARTMENTACCESSORY STORES:The main objective of Stores is to supply the trims or accessories & other necessary items and equipments needed for the productivity of the garment for each & every section in the unit. Stores department will make sure that all the items, accessories are present in right quantity with right quality. 5% of extra quantity will be issued to the stores. Stores keep an account of all the materials that comes in or goes out of the unit. Stores have to keep watch on every department in the unit to access the consumption of the material.

Worker details:Store in charge: Krishna Workers: 4

Flow:Buyer spec Merchandiser Dispatching Trims & Accessories Stores Inspection As per the folder for 1 garment is calculated

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Calculated for bulk production Approval by merchandiser Issued to the department

Stores Keeping:The store keeping staff is basically responsible for the receiving, storage and issuing of materials. The chief storekeeper is expected to: 1. Receive goods inwards and check them according to procedures specified by the purchasing department. 2. Issues the material and trimmings according to calculated amount & if required in rounded-up figures.

Stock transfer note: Item code Item name Issued #: Issued date: To Item UOM (Unit Quantity No of Location Lot bales / bags number

description of measurement)

Store issue slip:Style & Color Description Reference Quantity Remarks

FABRIC STORES:The fabric stores are storage of fabrics and fusible fabrics. The procedure followed here is same as accessory stores. Then as soon as the fabric comes to the stores it goes to

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inspection and after inspection again it is stored in separate rack. It is then dispatched to the cutting department.

Fabric section:Fabric audit:The main object of fabric section is to inspect, defect checking & shade segregation. Fabric to the fabric section is received in the form of bale or rolls. 1 bale consists of 5 to 6 taka. Fabric storage capacity is up to 1lakh meters either in bale or roll forms.

Process flow:Inspection Checking Shading Report Storage Distribution

Employees detail:Fabric in charge 1 (Annadanesh) Quality checker 1 18

Workers 4 Data operator 1 Total 7

Table Dimension:Length 190 inch Breadth 60 inch Height 38 inch Fabric storage capacity: up to 1lakh meter Storage height: 5.5ft or 66inch Productivity: On table up to 5000mts & on machine up to 1000 to 1500mts.

Machines used:Checking machine: RAMSONS CHFCK 6605 Shade matching machine: PARAMOUNT Spectra vision An ISO 9001 Route

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Layout plan:

Buyers: AEO (American Eagle Outfitters) OLD NAVY H&M (Hennits & Movits) HOLISTER

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TARGET WALMART PVH KOHILS C.K.JEANS (Calvin & Kelive Jeans)

Weaving defect: Burl mark Drop pick End out Wrong splicing Slub Foreign material Stop mark Warp & weft float Bowing Mixed yarns Iron stains & water mark Thin place Floats Dobby defect Pattern defects Double ends/ fillings Holes Weft bars Oil & soil stains Burl mark Streak Miss pick

Dyeing / Finishing / Printing / Embroidery defects: Center to selvedge & selvedge to selvedge color variation Roll to roll variation Stains Dark print Missing embroidery Miss prints Starting marks

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Patches Un even print Wrong design pattern

FABRIC INSPECTIONThe first step to be carried out when received from the supplier is to inspect the fabric. In the fabric inspection department four point system is been used for bales, rolls & Piece Goods Inspection.

PRINCIPLE:The main principle of 4 point system is that the penalty points given to the max defect is 4.

4 point system:Length of defects Up to 3inch 3 6inch 6 9inch > 9inch Any holes Points 1 2 3 4 4 Indication Yellow Green Navy blue Red Red

For 100mts more than 40 points defect fabric is rejected.

Point Calculation: Imperial:In this textile material is evaluated on a square yard. Points per sq yard = (Total points * 3600) / (Inspected yard *Cut table fabric width inch)

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Metric:In this textile material is evaluated on a square meter. Points / 100m sq = (Total points *10000)/ (Inspected meter *Cut table fabric width cm) Acceptable level computation formula: = (total points*3300) / (width in inch* length

Procedure: As soon as the fabric received, the fabric inspection department inspects the fabric. From the supplier the fabric is received in the form of Takas or Rolls. According to the order placed, they place 5% extra order to the supplier to meet the requirement. Fabric received in the form of Takas may be of length usually 100 meters, but it can be 45 or 65 meters also. Every fabric has to be inspected 100% incase 15% with the consent of concerned merchandiser approvals. Then the Takas or Rolls are inspected in full width on the table or machine under the good light for defects analyses. They are following Four Point System, in which total 100 meters of fabric is inspected and, if the points allotted for 100 meters are Less than () 40 points is Rejected Check the fabric length & width & compare against the length declared by the supplier. Fabric width 1 to 2 tolerance of specified width is accepted. For every lot / every fabric order keep 1mts of fabric for lab testing & for quality standard reference. Inspection reports are produced. Copies of the report are presented to concerned merchandiser & department.

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Grading of fabric depending on points:Points Up to 44 44 to 60 Above Grading Standard fabric Sub standard fabric Defect fabric Colour Green Yellow Red (reject)

Shade segregation: 100% shade segregation is done. 1/4th meters strip is cut across the width of each roll or takas. Colour matching is done by using, PARAMOUNT colour matching cabinet. Shade band of 10 * 10 swatch is prepared. Shade bands are send to concerned merchandiser, sourcing & cutting department for approval. Then they are sort for the shades and the Takas or rolls are sorted according to the shade variation. They ensure that same shade is been loaded to cutting. After inspection fabric is packed in bundle form as per the shades and width, and then issued to the cutting department.

Color matching testing:Buyer H&M TARGET AEO A&F OLD NAVY HOLLISTER KOHILS GYMBOREE PACSUN Primary TL 83 UL 30 CWF INCA CWF CWF U 30 INCA CWF Secondary D 65 D 65 INCA D 65 INCA D 65 D 65 D 65 D 65

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TOMMY SEARS

CWF UL30

D 65 D 65

Acceptable level: 30pt/100sq yard for mill made & imported fabric 40 pt/100sq yard for power loom fabric Check the width & length 3 times separately & mention their average. Check the reed & pick, (+_) 2 threads accepted. Center to selvedge colour variation is not accepted Check the bowing level Up to 44inch 45 to 60 inch 60 to 72inch 1 inch level acceptable 1.5 inch level acceptable 2 inch level acceptable

Checks & printed fabric cut table width is measured & embroidery fabric embroidery to embroidery width is measured. For shrinkage & washing 1meter width is cut. Shrinkage test is carried out by marking 50 * 50cm.

Fabric & codes:Code A B C D E F G H Fabric Waffle Waffle Chambray Denim Seer sucker Poplin Velvet Oxford canvas Code N O P Q R S T U Fabric 100% polyester Blended Twill Y/D Flax / Lenin Crepe Lycra Poly / nylon GRGT

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I J K L M

Cheeks Y/D Corduroy Twill with print Herring bone Knitted

V W X Y Z

Damask Woolen Voile Rayon Nylon

Accessories & trims used:Fabric, trolley, scissors, measuring tape, marker, stand, table, checking machine, shade matching machine, computer, calculator, sticker, label, hanger, display board.

Reports: Buyer label: Fab code: Color: Bale no: Roll no: Meter: Width: Shade:

Fabric reports:1. Face side approval 2. Shade band approval 3. Shrinkage report 4. CSCV /MTR to MTR 5. Checking report 6. Defective report 7. Country card

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8. Continuity card 9. Batch cutting label 10. Recutting %

1. Piece goods quality inspection report: Sl n o Supplier name: Fabric code / color: Po no: Style: Group of fabric: Acceptable points: Inspection date: Meter age received: Meter age accepted: Total Accept: Reject: Roll MTS / no in bale sticker Actual Actual Classification Total MTS width cm min & max of 1234 % shade Accept Remark points points points / reject

2. Shrinkage report: Fabric: Taka /roll no: MTR; L%: W%: Average: 27

Style no: Quantity: Buyer name: Color: Date:

3. Fabric checking report: Supplier: Fab code: Fab color: Style #: Buyer : Item #: Order quantity: Fabric required: Recd fab: Balance fab req: Inspection fab: Cut table width wise detail: Width MTS Po no Total Shade wise detail: Shade MTS Pass MTS Reject

Po wise quantity:

Defects:Inspection mts Checking % Total points Average % points

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In process on 7 8 2007 Thursday;Code I53AY I53AY XC44F XC44F FC87P FC88P FC89P PQ57 X431 HN933 XC86P XC85P PP081 Color Pink white Blue white Red cream Blue cream Blue flower bunch Blue flower Blue print Thunder grey White White Pink butter Blue bocquet Brown Style R2120 R2120 5830 5830 RU 60 RU 60 RU 60 T 37 T 37 2623 TW 40 TW 40 528201 Buyer Benetton stripe Benetton stripe AEO embroidery AEO embroidery Benetton printed Benetton printed Benetton printed CK Jeans check CK Jeans plain AEO stripe Benetton printed Benetton Old navy checks

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SAMPLINGSampling is the Research and Development section of the garment industry. In this department the replicas of the bulk is produced. The samples are produced according to the spec sheet in single size and sent for buyer approval, the sample is the representative of the whole bulk. This initiates the actual production. Sampling process is responsible to monitor quality at minimum cost. The samples garment is prepared in the sampling department with great care because these samples represent the capability of the company and in order to procure orders to the company. This is done very cautiously checking every minute thing getting the sample to perfection as per the buyers requirements in the spec sheet.

THE MAIN FUNCTIONS OF SAMPLING:1. PATTERN MAKING 2. CAD MARKING 3. SAMPLE PRODUCTION

The main objectives of sampling department are:1. Getting approvals from buyers. 2. Getting pre-production approvals. 3. Checking and analyzing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production department. 4. Sending samples for Merchandise Review Samples (M.R.S), counter, sales men , pre-production , shipment, and Buyers Meeting samples .Buyers ask for TOP samples (Term production) The other functions: 30

The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce the garment. The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that particular garment. Based on the sampled garment the costing is been carried out.

PATTERN MAKING:The designs according to the tech pack given by buyers including shrinkage are drawn on the tracing sheet then it is placed on the card board. Then the different parts of the design are cut using cutters, scissors and trimmed by notch cutters. Then the separated parts are placed on the digitizers board to digitize the parts into the computer. Pattern making is done only for single size.

CAD MARKING:The cad marking is done after digitizing. The main function of cad is grading of the basic size according to the required sizes. The different parts are separated and colored according to the sizes. The lay marking is done such the waste efficiency percentage is less. The fabric consumption efficiency in that lay is optimum. The software used is OPTI TEX. There are two types of OPTI TEX : PDS pattern ,grading ,correction ,shrinkage and whatever changes required can be done. MARK only marking is done. No other corrections can be done. The cad marking is very useful in grading and optimum usage of the fabric. The buffers are used in the stripes and check fabrics. Shade markers are used for solids. The marking is done onto the tracing sheets by plotters. The tracing sheet length and width are equal to the lay. Then it is sent to the manual cutting.

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The samples are produced according to the patterns according to the procedures given below.

Hierarchy of workers:Merchandising manager Sampling in charge Co-ordinates QC Tailors In charge Ramanathan Total workers 43 Tailors -25 Pattern masters -2 QC -3 Pattern markers -2 CAD -2 operators 1 helper K/B -2 Supervisors -2 Cutters -2 Ironing -2 Supervisors Ironers K/B Helpers Pattern masters

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PROCESS SEQUENCE:

BUYER

SPECIFICATION SHEET

MERCHANDISER

SAMPLING

Flow of the sample:Developing stage of style Proto sample Fit approval Pre production sample Sealer sample

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Size set Pilot run Garment package test (GPT) Top sample

IN GPT: Show room sample (SMS) Fashion show room sample (FSS) Add sample (AD) Reference sample

TYPES OF SAMPLES: DEVELOPING STAGE OF STYLE: It is the own developing of size with respect to the sample given by the buyer.

PROTO SAMPLE:1. This is the first sample being prepared contain only substitute fabric. 2. Only in one size is been prepared and sent. 3. This sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some cased to buyer itself. 4. The pattern prepared for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. 5. This sample is prepared for just to get the garment out look and size.

FIT APPROVAL:1. In this sample stitch construction is mentioned. 2. the grain cutting direction is mentioned as per buyer

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3. the procurement of trims 4. the stitching instructions of the different parts of garment 5. the accurate dimensions of the garment is specified

SALES MEN SAMPLE:1. In this type sample of 4-6 pieces in each size sent to buyer. 2. The buyer will have certain buying houses or showrooms where the samples are sent, if the samples are fast moving then the order been placed. 3. The pattern prepared for salesmen sample, will contain seam allowances as lay is been made for cutting above thirty pieces. 4. Fabric being original with all accessories.

RED SEAL SAMPLE:1. This sample is not been prepared in reference to all buyers. Only certain buyers do ask for Red Seal Samples. 2. The sample is been sent with full accessories and details. 3. One sample is been sent in all sizes.

SIZE SET SAMPLES:1. This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit to the garment. 2. In all sizes one sample is sent to the buyer to check the fit. 3. Based on this sample the buyer sends comments regarding the size fit if any. 4. In certain cases the fabric may be of substitute fabric.

PILOT RUN SAMPLE:1. Here about 30-50 pieces is been prepared. 2. In each size and in each color one garment is been produced.

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3. This trail for production. 4. In certain cases the buyers agent will come and inspects the sample and gives comment.

PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES:1. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. 2. The Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter checked and then sends it to the buyer.

TOP SAMPLES:1. This is the sample is been prepared in the production line during production hours. 2. One or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how is being stitched in the production line. 3. Only certain buyers do ask for TOP samples.

SHIPMENT SAMPLE:1. Here one or two samples to be sent to the buyer to give knowledge of what is being sent to the buyer through shipment. 2. Certain buyers do ask for this type of samples though this sample is not sent usually.

COUNTER SAMPLE:1. For all samples there should be preparation of one or two samples, which is for our reference.

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2. That is for Proto, salesmen, Size set, Pilot run, Pre-production samples and any other samples being sent to buyer there should be a preparation of counter samples for our reference.

GARMENT PACKAGE TEST:1. The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec sheet 2. color fastness ,strength ,crocking of the sample is testing is done

REPORTS: Sample Indent: Buyer: Purpose: Style: Size: Description: Quantity: Pattern information: Cutting information: Interlining type & placement: Stitching information: Washing information: Packing information / Accessories: Any special information: Fabric details: Thread details:

1) Bill of materials: Stage: Development

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Buyer: Class: Type: Description: Vendor:

MaterialsItem description code Use content Construction finish Weight Yield

2) Folder summary: Buyer: Main label: Additional label: Hang tag: Logo: Final fit approval:

3) How to measure (Grade specification work sheet) 4) Fit image form:

5) Required specification: Buyer: Company: Product type:

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Sample size: Size class: Approval status: Approval note: Selected range:

POM

Description

Tol (-)

Tol (+)

Basic size

6) Sample comments: Stage: Production Fit evaluation work sheet: Grade specification: Measurement sheet: Production sheet: Buyer: Buyer P.O. Style: Fabric: Description: Wash: Consumption: Delivery date: Country: Shipment mode: Trims:

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Item number: Body fabric color: Sizes: Comments:

7) Sewing program list: Program number: Stitch shape: Number of threads: Standard sewing size:

8) Checking:Fabric defects Shade variation Holes/ stains/ cuts Fused surface appearance Biased cut components Button hole stitching quality Button attachment quality Bar tuck Trims attachment Embroidery / printing Workmanship in samples Direction of biased components Threads used in samples Trims used in samples All required labels Label placements/attachments Iron standard/ quality Alteration involved Specs in samples Overall quality of sample Presentation of sample Sample check result

Accessories & Trims:Scissor, measuring tape, scale, pattern sheet, notch cutter, stapler, marker, gum tape, calculator, fabric, thread, buttons, labels, iron box.

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In process: 10/08/2007Code HNG33 XC447 XC447 I53AY I53AY PQ57 Color White Red cream Blue cream Pink white Blue white

FridayStyle 2623 5830 5830 R2120 R2120 T37 Buyer AEO AEO AEO Benetton Benetton C K Jeans

Thunder grey

CUTTING DEPARTMENTCutting is the very first process in garment manufacturing. The cutting department receives the fabric from the fabric department after inspection. The main objective of cutting section is cutting of garment parts accurately, economically and in sufficient volume according to the lay record and the parts are numbered according to the sizes to keep the sewing room supplied with work. Production is up to 7000 per day.

Machines used:1. Hand cutting machines Blue streak NY U.S.A 2. End cutting machine Eastman end cutter 3. Fusing machine HASHIMA 1000 ED Model EC 3 Eastman machine company

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4. Fussing feel strength checking machine 5. Band Messer machine Wastema Germany 6. Cloth drill hole machine Nagai Shima Japan 7. Numbering machine BLITZ numbering machine Italy STV 492

Employees: Cutting in charge MuraliQC in charge 1 Cutter 7 Cutting helper 1 Cutting issuer 1 Fab assistant 1 Feeding helper 1 Top sticker 2 Fusing helper 15 Marker 1 Production writer 1 Laying 10 Re layers 9 QC / checkers 6 Re cutters 2 Re layers 9 Re lay helpers 1 Sorters 12 Sorting helpers 1 Supervisors 1 Fabric issuers 1 Fabric QC 1 Fabric checkers 4 TLR 3 QC supplier 1 Helper 15 TOTAL = 99

Spreading:

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The main objective of spreading is to spread the fabric lay accurately as per the length of the maker with minimum waste at end of a lay. Two types of spreading: Manual spreading Auto spreading

MANUAL SPREADING:In cutting department fabric lays are laid manually as per the marker length, at the end of the lay the workers cut the fabric with scissors and end cutter. During spreading they take care of shades in the lays of fabric, they do check the width and length of the fabric and give report. They maintain a report of how many layers are been lay and the laying being done by whom. To get perfection during lay cutting in case of checks and stripes fabric the lay cutters do follow the design and then cut it off, but in case of plain fabric they cut the fabric as it is. They are getting more end bits during spreading but they use these end bits to cut garment parts. In certain cases 2 end bits are joined together to make the required length. This is possible if shades of both the end bits are matched.

AUTO SPREADING:The automatic spreading is done by machines which hold the fabric rolls in width wise and fabric is spread along length wise. Only one operator is required. There are 3 types of laying: Folded Open width Pinning lay

CUTTING:43

Cutting is very important and necessary process without which the garment cant be stitched. Cutting should be done according to the marker & is carried out by cutting master and cutting in charge. Here the cutting is done in two stages : 1. Manual cutting 2. Computer pneumatic cutting Manual cutting: Band knife cutting Straighter cutting

The procedure followed in manual cutting: The fabric is inspected for shade The fabric consumption ratio is calculated The lay record is prepared The lay is spread according to the lay record The lay marker is spread over it The size labels are placed on the marked parts. The straighter cutting is been carried out Then it is sent to band knife cutting for accuracy in shape The numbering of parts is done based on sizes & lay The stripes and check fabrics are sent for relaying where the proper alignment of stripes & checks of different parts for matching. Pinning is done for pockets and darts for proper alignment Edge cutting is done for stripe & check fabrics The interlinings are also cut After cutting the shade checking is done Then it goes to auditing Re cutting is done 44

Main bundle:Main bundle consist of small bundles (20 pieces)of each part required to make one complete garment.

Flow:Order Consumption work Approval Fabric check Approved shade Cutting plan Laying CAD marker Cutting Numbering Shade checking 45

Bundling (20) Check Batch distribution Recutting (if required)

Procedure for quality inspection: Pattern checking: check if top ply, middle ply & bottom ply comes exactly to the hard pattern. Notches: check weather the locations of the notches had been correct by putting the hard pattern over the top ply. Ragged cutting: check for ragged cutting & if found the part has to be replaced or the defect has to be rectified. Miss cut: balanced. Any deviation found in the above procedure should be brought to the notice of the concerned person & ensure rectification. check for miss cut or failure of the cutter o split the line.

Check matching: check if the check matching & the mirror image are been

Checking method for sorting: Check the top sticker & all the components are of same cut no. Check the no parts ok. Check first & last no of all the components is same. Check both the opposites of all the components. Check notches of all the components. Check shade variation of all the components.

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Shade quality control: After the numbering of all the components in a garment, spread all the components neatly on the table. Check top sticker & all the components are of same cut no. Ensure by checking the first no & last no of all the components, the no given to the components is same. If any shade variation is observed then check components of 1 no b/w the components & one above for confirmation. If the same lay is cut in different lots of fabric consider each as separate lays while checking & perform the above procedure separately.

Fusing:This been carried out after numbering. Fusing fabrics have a gummy layer which helps in sticking to the fabric when subjected under required temperature & pressure; it may be of woven & non woven. This is been done to get the roughness of the required parts of the fabric which helps in smooth process of sewing. Interlinings are the one which does not have gummy layer. These are also used to the required parts instead of fusing fabrics. Parts for fusing or interlinings: Shirts: collar, cuff, neck band, flap, front patty, pocket. Pants: waist band, pocket, flap.

Different fusing fabrics:Code FX 1008 FX1008 CH4013 NX100 FX 12 DP Color Black White White White Charcoal Temperature (deg c) 132 132 132 132 132 Pressure (kg) 2.5 2.5 3 3 3 Time (sec) 12 12 12 12 12

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CH 3012 NX 100

White Optic white

130 132

3 2.5

12 12

Process: Fusing is done by machine. Fusing sandwich temperature to be checked by BI hourly using a thermo stripe. Place thermo label sandwich b/w a strip of the fabric & the fusible Pass this to fusing machine Get the proper temp (at which the thermo label become black) Attach temp to this form after testing Peel strength to be checked once a day using adhesion tester (standard 450gm or 160oz). Dwell time to be checked once a week using stop watch. Pressure checking is to be done once a month using a fast colored poplin fabric & woven microdot fusible interlining.

Fusing Defects: Delamination and bubbling due to incorrect fusing. Discoloration of fabric due to fusing. Strike through and strike back caused by incompatible interlining and shell fabric or improper fusing cycle. Fusing defects are avoided using better combination of temperature and pressure.

Testing and fusible interlinings: Purpose is to give form and shape and to improve aesthetic of the garment. Quality of fusing is tested by actual fusing by taking 12*12 fabric and 9*9 fusing fabric at recommended time, temperature and pressure. This is checked for compatible, shrinkage and bond strength.

REPORTS:Lay record:

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JO/ style#: Cut #: Lay length and width: Start and end time: Bale # : thann mts: no. of plies:

Fabric & color: Sizes: Shade: No of plies/ ways or size: Meters required for the day: Cut or production date:

Lay mark sticker: Style # Cut # Size: Part: Shrinkage:

Consumption details: Style #: Date: Buyer: Cut table width: Shrinkage: Fabric: Size/ratio Ways Length Avg/GMT Efficiency% No. of Total Total pcs pieces/size mts

Sample report: Order no.:

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Supplier: Model description: Sent by: Date: Measurement list: Test Size Color Sample Test result Previous test result samples Comment: on

Fusing lay record: PO #: Style #: Cut #: Size ratio: Lay length: Fabric width & marker width: Shrinkage: Fabric code & color: Fabric swatch: Embroidery parts: Meterage used of cutting: Fabric issued for spread:

Fusing production report:Date Members Target

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Parts fused per garment:PO # Style # Cut # Pcs # Cut quantity Total Parts to be fused

Numbering: Shading quality inspection report: PO #: Style #: Cut #: Size: Color: Fabric: Lot quantity:

Bundle card: PO # Style #: Cut #: Size: Part: Fabric: Bundle #: Quantity: Shrinkage:

Counting: front and back pieces are counted. Delivery Chelan: D.C. no.: Unit:

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Batch: Date: P.O. no.: Style: Color: Cut no. Bundle no. Quantity Size Start bundle End bundle

In process: 08/08/2007 WednesdayCode XC86P XC85P PQ57 IV982 XC44F IPN92 PP091 IPN90 FB720 XC44F Color Pink butter Blue bouquet Thunder grey Natural Blue cream Brown dark Contrast brown Blue dark White embroidery Blue cream Style TW40 TW40 T37 528201 5830 7600 528201 7600 F2517 5830 Buyer Benetton Benetton C K Jean Old navy AEO H&M Old navy H&M AEO AEO

Fusing in process: 08/08/2007 WednesdayStyle # Color Fusing fabric Temperature deg cel Pressure Kg Dwell time (sec) Parts to be fused

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code 528201 7600 Brown checks Blue dark NX100 White CM4013 white 132 3 12 132 3 12 Collar, cuff, FP,flap, NB Collar, NB,flap, FP

Followed:Specification Code: Color: Style: Buyer: Fabric PP091 Brown checks 528201 Benetton Contrast fabric IV982 Natural 528201 Benetton Fusing fabric NX100 Optic white -

Parts: Back:1 Right sleeve: 1 Left sleeve: 1 Cuff:2 Front yoke:2 Pocket:2 Pocket flap:2 Back yoke:1 Collar:2 Neck band:2 Flap:2

Corduroy:Neck band:1 Cuff:2

Contrast:Front contrast:2 Back contrast:1

Main bundle:In this style main bundle has 480 pieces. .

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SEWING DEPARTMENTIn-Process SewingSewing department receives fabric bundles of different pieces or parts of garment & these bundles are issued to the batch to perform a sewing operation. Here the sewing department consist of six batches among these four are line batches and other two batches are assembled. Each line batch consists of 40-45 machines and assembly batch consists of 60-65 machines, this will vary deepening upon the style of the garment.

Batch Setting:Once the sample gets approved from the buyer, batch setting is done for a particular style of the garment. Batch setting is very critical process if any thing goes wrong in settings then it directly affects the production and as well as the quality of the

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garment. Batch setting is done by the floor in-charge with Production Managers guidelines. Batch setting depends on the style of the garment. And the number of machines set in the batch for each operation depends on the production required per hour & per day. Batch setting follows zig- zag flow for easy and convenient flow of materials. Once the batch is set, the actual garment manufacture will begin & the target is set for each and every operation, which in turn gives the estimated production. Hourly production target and daily production target is fixed by the Production Manager by his experience knowledge. The Target setting depends on: Shipment Date Style Number of workers & no. of machines

Workers EfficiencyAfter the sewing is completed the garment moves to the trimming section, then to checking department, then to final checking and dispatch to finishing department. In production, for each line theyre being one Supervisor who controls the total line and his main aim is to get the required production with in time. There will be 2 feeding helpers whose responsibilities are to feed the materials in to the batch from the cutting department and to maintain the hourly production & daily production reports. There will be one Q.C. & he checks out for the mistakes/defects. Quality norms conformity: 1. Incorrect shape 2. Open seam 3. Puckering 4. Pleating 5. Needle holes 6. Twisted uneven width 7. Shading within 14. End cut thread 15. Oil stains 16. Width uneven 17. Joint stitch 18. Improper point 19. Raw edge 20. Skip stitch 55

garment 8. Hi- low panel, pocket 9. Looseness 10. Broken stitches 11. Label open 12. Label reverse 13. Label centre out

21. Down stitch 22. Line out 23. Roping 24. Damage 25. Uneven stitch/inch 26. Mirror balancing

LAYOUT PLAN

ENTRANCE

EX IT

56EXIT

TOIL ET

I E D

I E D

CHECKI NG

107ft MODULAR TEAM

1 2 ft

H R RACK COUNTING TABLE17FT

D A T A CHECKI NG

107ft BATCH 9

1 2 ft

1 0

107ft AQL AQL RACK 107ft 23ft 9 f t CHECKI NG BATCH 10

1 2 ft

CHECKI NG EXIT

BATCH 11

1 2 ft

FLOW CHART SEWING SECTION

Loading of cutting parts

Distribution of parts

Setting of workstations

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Stitching of parts

Inline checking

Assembling of parts

Trimming

End of line checking

AQL

Kaja

Sending to washing/finishing

Operations involved in making of parts: Collar: Collar top run stitch Collar edge cut Collar edge turning Collar top edge (collar kinari) Collar top stitch Neck band iron

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Collar top and neck band edge cut Collar pick ready (collar and neck band attachment) Ready collar trim, turn, and iron Ready collar edge cut and middle marking.

Cuff: Cuff hem (cuff door) Cuff marking (width, length, height) Cuff run stitch Cuff trim turn Cuff iron (cuff ready)

Back: Sleeve Back dart making Back yoke inside piece gathering Back yoke inside piece attaching Back top yoke ironing Back top yoke centre tacking Back yoke top stitch Fusing for velvet tape attachment (iron) Velvet tape attachment marking Side tacking for velvet tape attachment and finishing Main label attachment.

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Front:

Sleeve open Sleeve placket edge cut Sleeve placket finishing (direct finishing) Diamond shape (tacking) Sleeve placket diamond shape making Sleeve pleat marking Sleeve pleat making.

Front marking (line balancing) Front trimming (extra margin line) Front panel attach Front panel over lock Front panel top stitch Front panel edge cut Front yoke inside piece attach Front yoke top piece attach Front placket edge cut Front placket finishing (right and left) Pocket hemm surging and pock hemm Pocket iron Pocket extra margin trim and setting Pocket attach Pocket pointing Flap marking with setting (line balancing) Flap run stitch (ready) Flap edge cut, turn Flap edge stitch (kinari) Flap top stitch (pointed)

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Flap stay stitch (edge cut) Flap attaching Flap attach top stitch Front panel stay stitch (neck)

Checking: Check station-1 ( Parts name: cuff, collar, flap) Cuff to cuff line balancing S/B* even Cuff door top stitch width uneven N/A* Cuff up and down N/A Cuff edge straight line and point sharp S/B even Collar point up and down N/A Collar top S/B mirror balancing Collar top down stitch and top stitch width uneven N/A Pick shape and pick up and down N/A Neck band with uneven N/A Both side flap mirror S/B balancing Flap D/N* piping and width uneven N/A

Check station- 2 (Parts name: sleeve and back) Sleeve placket length up and down N/A Sleeve placket diamond shape off and length up and down N/A Sleeve placket diamond reverse tracking N/A Sleeve placket folding line bowing N/A Back velvet label attaching cross and centre out N/A Size label attaching reverse and raw edge N/A Label gap uneven N/A Back yoke attaching shape of and margin uneven N/A

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Back top stitch D/N down stitch and attaching stitch visible N/A Back yoke point centre out N/A Back dart depth width uneven N/A Back dart S/B zero finishing

Check station- 3 ( Part name: front) Front yoke D/N puckering and down stitching N/A Front yoke S/B mirror balancing Front panel attaching line S/B matching Front panel D/N reverse and pucker N/A Followed pocket to pocket mirror balancing Pocket door S/B and pocket straight line S/B CF side Followed flap to pocket line matching Flap to pocket gap S/B both side Pocket attaching hi-low N/A Front placket hi- low N/A Front placket top stitch both side even Pocket placement from placket edge

Check station- 4: (Parts name: collar attaching and back attaching and sleeve attaching) Middle out N/A and label S/B centre Collar finishing down and attaching stitch visible N/A Label gap S/B 5/8 Body, collar and label size S/B in same number Shoulder top stitch looseness and width uneven N/A Sleeve attaching reverse N/A

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Arm hole top stitching width uneven and roping N/A Front, back and sleeve S/B same number.

End of line checking: Size label to collar check S/B same of size Front shoulder top stitch width S/B even Arm hole top stitch width S/B even Sleeve attaching reverse and sleeve placket reverse N/A it S/B even Cuff finishing straight line S/B even S/B follow sleeve placket up and down and sleeve pleat up and down Side seam D/N loose stitch and puckering N/A it S/B neat Follow bottom hem piping, down and puckering Font placket hi-low and puckering S/B even Pocket to flap line balancing S/B even Pocket hi-low and pocket cross attaching N/A Front and back yoke D/N puckering shape off N/A Wash care label placement S/B 3 above bottom and wash label reverse N/A Front panel D/N reverse and down stitch N/A Back dart up and down N/A All over garment viewing defects N/A.

S/B should be. N/A - not acceptable. D/N double needle.

. Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)After complete checking of garment at the end line checking point the garments will be sent to AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) for further checking of pieces in random. AQL checks the garment according to 1.5 systems. I.e. according to this system 8 pieces

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will be randomly picked form the lot of 150 pieces if any defects found more than specified the lot will be rejected and sent for rechecking.

Flow in AQL:Issue from batches

Counting

AQL

Fail

Pass

Batch

Kaja

Finishing/washing

At last Sampling Plan:

Lot

size

or 64

AQL

quantity audited

being

1.5

2.5

4.0

6.5

Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept less than 151 151-500 501-1200 1201-3200 3201-10000 10001-35000 35001-15000 15001-500000 500001 & above 8 8 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 0 0 1 2 5 5 7 10 14 5 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 0 0 2 3 5 7 10 10 21 13 13 32 50 80 125 200 315 315 1 1 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 8 13 32 50 80 125 200 200 200 1 2 5 7 10 14 14 14 14

Organization flow:Factory manager Q.A. manager [Karthik] [Jude Mannuel]

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Q.A.I Floor incharge Q.C

[Mohan] [Ravi] [Chandrika]

Total workers in 1 batch: 35 Tailors= 18 Helpers= 5 + 1 trimmer Check point= 3 [ 2 inline and 1 end line] Supervisor= 1 Q.C= 1 Electrician=1 Maintenance= 2 IED incharge= 1 Sampling= 1

Types of machines: SNLS ( single needle lock stitch machine) DNLS ( double needle lock stitch machine) Overlock machine ( 3,4,5) threads Single needle edge cut ( SNLSEC) Single needle UBT ( uncut thread) Feeder form ( FOA) Cut pocket machine ( bone pocket machine) Collar turn machine Kansai machine ( front patty chain lock\ pin tuck machine)

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Bar tuck machine (1/2, 1/4, 3/8, 3/4)

Machine and their make:1. SIRUBA L818F- RM1 ( S/N M/C EC) KAULIN MFG. CO.LTD JAPAN 2. BROTHER DB2-B736-3 (S/N M/C) BRTOTHER INDUSTRIES LTD. CHINA 3. JUKI DDL- 5530N (S/N M/C EC) JUKE COROPORATION JAPAN 4. SUNSTAR- KM797 SUNSTAR MACHINARY CO.LTD CHINA 5. YAMATO CZ6500-A4DF YAMOTO SEWING MACHINE (NING BO) CO.LTD JAPAN 6. SIRUBA- 757F-516M2-35 ( OL M/C) JAPAN 7. COLLAR TURNING MACHINE CP-313AX JAPAN

Reports: Operators bulletin: Style: 67

Buyer: Parameters: Last received by: Date of last revision: O/P at 65%: O/P at 85%: O/P at 100%: Target / hour: Total SMS: Minutes per day: No. of operators: No. of helpers: Pieces per m/c: Manpower: Operations:

GS D

m/c type and class

work aids

Folder/pr/foot/other Operator calculated

No. m/cs

of Target per 70%

Target per @ 85%

Target per hour

required

hour @ hour

AQL: Batch Audit Slip: Batch no.: P.O. no.: Style: Fresh RE 1 RE 2 RE 3 RE 4 status: Size: 68 Aud it

Quantity: Audit start: Checked: Audit close: Result:

Daily batch auditing work sheet: No. defects Audit: Batch no.: Style no.: P.O. no.: Audit status: Quantity: MSmts: Result: of Defects description Defective %: Passed quantity: Grand offered by total Grand checked out total Grand total defective units

Daily stitching report: Batch: Tailors: P.O. no.: Style: Color: Size: on Total loading Production date on Total production Balance production

Loading date

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Accessories:Magic pen, white wax marker, white pencil, pattern cards, trimmer, scissors, tape, thread, fabric, trims, fusing material, machines, checking tables, iron box, ironing tables, pointer, key type turn stand.

In process: 14/08/2007 TuesdayCode PP091 IPN92 IPN90 PQ 57 Color Brown checks Brown dark Blue dark Thunder grey Style 52820 1 7600 7600 RU60 RU60 Buyer Old navy H&M H&M C K Jeans Benetton Benetton

FC87P Red, blue flower Y-37 FC88P Blue bouquet

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Kaja sectionThis is carried out after sewing of garment. Here buttons have been stitched as per the buyer requirement. Buttoning is done either before or after wash depending on the type of button used. Production is 5000 per day.

Workers list: Supervisor: Alesh Man power:60

Flow:In case of washing Washing Dispatching Iron Marking Kaja Finishing In case of non wash Batch Dispatch Marking Kaja Finishing

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Machines: Strength checker IMADA Button stitching machine Brother BE 4380 China Kaja hole machine Brother HE 800A 2 China Pneumatic snap button machine Ngai shing Hong Kong

In process: 16/08/2007 ThursdayCode Color IPN92 Brown dark PP09 1 Style 7600 1 Buyer H&M Old navy

Contrast brown 52820

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FINISHING & PACKINGFinishing is done before packing. It is been carried out before or after washing as per the buyer requirement or dependent on the fabric. The garments from the production section are sent for washing by segregating them on the basis of sizes, shades. The main objective of finishing is to finish the garment as per buyer requirement and present more effectively. Packing is the final stage of garment industry for shipment of goods. The main objective of packing is easy transportation of goods. It is also done to maintain the quality norms of the garment. Packing of the garment is done depending on the buyer requirement. Production is 3000 per day. Shift production is 6000 per day.

Employee list: Finishing incharge: Dilip Checking: 35 Iron: 25 Packing: 12 Folding helper: 4 Helper: 2 Packing helper: 1 Embroidery: 1 Supervisor: 3

Q.C: 3 Alteration tailor: 2

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Washing: 2 Darner: 1 Total workers: 90

Machine used: Needle detector machine: Hashima HN 740G Thread sucking machine Ramsons Bangalore Spot wash machine Ramsons stain buster CL1 Bangalore

IN-PROCESS FLOW IN FINISHING (a) Unwashed GarmentsGarments received from the batch audit

Quality and measurement inspection Button section Segregation Trimming Thread sucking Rough ironing Final quality and measurement check

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Final ironing Presentation checking Folding as per the buyers specifications

Packing

Pack audit Shipment

(b) Washed GarmentsGarments received from the batch audit

Quality and measurement inspection Button section Dispatching (as per size) Washing Trimming Thread sucking Rough ironing Final quality and measurement check

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Final ironing Presentation checking Folding as per the buyers specifications

Packing

Pack audit Shipment

SEGREGATION AND DISPACTING:The garment from batches after button section is segregated and dispatched before or after washing as per the sizes and shades to different batches for further finishing and packing processes. In case of washing they use poly bags for dispatching of garments to washing section.

TRIMMING:After washing the garments are subjected to trimming section. In trimming loose threads are cut with the help of a trimmer. Inside out side trimming are done on the garment. At the time of trimming care should be taken that it should not affect the stitches in the garment.

INSIDE CHECKING:The out side of the garment is checked to note if there is any defects in the inside of the garment. A sticker is pasted inside the wash care label at the time of inside checking.

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OUTSIDE CHECKING:In outside checking, the outside of the garment is checked like parts of the garments, its position, buttons, line matching etc. These are checked based on buyer identifications. If there is any defect in the garment or in any part of the garment, a sticker is placed over the defect. If possible that part is changed or altered. If replacement is not possible or if stain is not removed in washing, the garment will be rejected. The pieces are again trimmed and checked if any alteration has done on the garment. The method of checking is changed according to the style of the garment. The garment is then placed in the thread-sucking machine. All the trimmed threads and dirts are removed.

IRONING:After Trimming and Checking, the garment is sent to ironing section. First the buttons are attached and then the garment is ironed. The steam is connected with the pipe to the steam iron box. Ironing is done in two stages rough ironing and final ironing. Rough ironing is helpful for the identification of defects. Only inside ironing is carried out. Final ironing bottom setting shoulder setting is done. After ironing the garment is measured and put on hanger, if required folding is done. Ironing, folding will depend on the buyer specifications.

WASHING:Spot washes are done here to remove mud, grease, pen mark, yellow stain, sticker mark, etc. Here high pressure water and steam is used to wash and dry the garment so that no water mark is left out. Various chemicals like LOC ( liquid organic cleaner), soap 77

oil, acetone, robin, baby soap are used. Only mild chemicals are used such that the feel of the fabric is not altered.

PACKING:If the garment is hanger packed, put the size clip on the hanger. The size clip helps to identify the sizes easily. Then the tag or main label is attached with the hand machine. The place where the tag is to be attached will depend on the buyer specifications. Then the garment is placed inside the polybag. The Size ratio in a bundle will depend on the purchase order. According to the size ratio, bundles are placed inside the carton. In the purchase order, the number of bundles that should be contained in a carton will be mentioned. Shipment case number is put over the carton; all other details are printed over the carton. The company auditor checks at the time of packing and accepts the garment based on the purchase order. Then the buyers auditor will further check and accept the goods. Then the shipping is done.

Different types of packing:Packing is done various types based on buyer requirement. They are Stand up pack Flat pack Hanger packs Semi stand up pack Roll pack

Types of cartons:Buyer H&M Size inch 58*40*40 22*16*6 USA (SP& BP) 24*24*8 24*26*6 24*18*6 AEO 78 22(1/2)*16(1/2)*4 30*11*8 lay 3 7 7 3 3 3 MP 6 7

Old navy Online 22*16*12

SP: single pre pack BP: bulk pre pack MP: multi pre pack

List of major Defects: Brand, care or size label missing. Shading Wrong color Fabric flaw defect Hole in fabric Damage Conspicuous repair Poor construction Conspicuous soilage (inside or outside) Conspicuous abrasion marks from wash process High/ low pockets Exposed zipper tape Buttons, snap defect Button hole raveling, incomplete, not cut properly/ miss aligned Sizing problem Poorly trimmed garment threads Broken stitches Skipped stitches Open seam

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Conspicuous puckering of seam Conspicuous wavy stitching Fleeing or raveling of material Raw edge Uneven seam Sleeve length uneven Sleeves reversed Defect sticker all should be removed Pressing wrinkle appearance

Garment zone classification: Red zone A critical Black zone B major Green zone C minor

Accessories:Trimmer, tape, iron table, cartons, trims, hanger, poly bags, scissors, thread, stickers, trolley, machines, chemicals, gum tapes, stand.

Report: Final audit report:Date of inspection buyer Style no. Offered qty Audit result Internal Buyer

Audit result:Red fail Green pass

Carton marking:

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SDC: Destiny: Made in INDIA Color: Gross weight: Net weight: Dimension: QTY: CTN PO#: Prepack: Style: Size code: QTY: Total packs: OF:

In process: 16/08/2007 Code PP03 1 IPN90

ThursdayBuyer Old navy H&M

Color Style Brown checks 52820 Blue dark 1 7600

WASHING DEPARTMENTThe main objective of washing to remove stains, dust, dirt, pencil marks, check for shrinkage and also to enhance the feel of the garment. Washing of garment is also done to

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give special effects of on the garment. Washing of garment is done in two stages before bulk production i.e. sampling stage and after bulk production. However the method of wash given to the garment depends on the nature of fabric, buyer requirement and specification. Production is 40000 kg per day.

Workers list: Incharge 3 ( Sandil Kumar) Data entering 1 Checkers 2 Sorters 2 Workers 30

Washing is of two types. They are: 1. Dry wash 2. Wet wash

Dry wash:As the name itself indicates dry here water is not used. This is usually done to give certain effects on the garment. Such washes are more used on denim and jean fabrics. Example: stone wash, sand blasting, grinding, etc.

Wet wash:In this method water is one of the main ingredient used for washing. This is done to check shrinkage, remove stains, dirt, pencil marks, etc. enhances the feel of the garment and also to provide required effects on the surface of the garment. Such washes are widely used for all sorts of garments. However the type of wash depends upon the nature of fabric, buyer requirement and specifications. There are different types of washes given to the garment some of them are:

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Rubber ball wash Softener wash Plain wash Enzyme wash Dip and dry Stone wash Sand blasting [ dry wash] [ dry wash]

Rubber ball washSpecial types of rubber balls are used for rubber ball washing. The balls are put into the machine at the time of washing. Rubber ball wash is mainly used for thick fabrics to give flowing appearance or to feel smooth. This type of washing is very expensive.

Softener washSofteners are used for softener wash to give softness to the garment. Amino silicon is mainly used. For heavier fabrics different types of softeners are used.

Plain washPlain wash is done to remove stains, dust etc. and also to get good appearance.

Enzyme washEnzymes are used in enzyme wash. These enzymes dissolve the fibers that are pulled on the surface of the fabrics and gives smooth appearance to the fabric.

Dip and Dry washIn dip and dry, the garment is dipped in water and dried. This helps to avoid shrinkage and to remove sizing material.

Stone wash83

Stone wash is mainly used in denim garments to get good luster. Special type of stones which are said to be pumice stones are used in washing, which improve luster on the surface of the fabric hence good appearance is obtained. This type of washing is mainly used for jeans and trousers.

Sand blastingSand blasting is mainly done for denim garments to obtain the shaded effect on the surface of the garment. Aluminum oxide is used for this purpose. The area to be shaded is marked out and sand under high pressure and force is moved on the marked area the continuous friction between the surface of garment and sand particles fades the color of the garment this is done manually. This is mainly used for jeans and pants, shirts, trousers as per requirement.

Defects Hand feel Shade Puckering( high low effect) Pilling or rising level Grainy ( denim) Back staining Patches Damages Tinting/ bleeding (button, label, pocket, embroidery ,etc.) Streaks Stains Others

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Flow chart of Washing Department:Segregation

Bulk washing

Hydro extraction

Drying

Checking

Bundling

The important factors to be considered at the time of washing are tinting, bleeding, open stitch and damage. Tinting means one color spreading on another color in fabrics. Chemicals are used to avoid tinting.

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Bleeding means color fading by the loss of color from the fabric by the use of low quality dyes. Dye fixing is done to prevent color bleeding. Some times damage is occurred at the time of washing. This is due to using high concentrated chemicals or increase in the duration of washing. Industrial washing machine is used for washing. The machines are filled with sufficient quantity of water, chemicals, soap, garments and the machine is rotated, the quality of water, type of chemicals, detergents, and also the duration of washing will vary according to the type of fabric and method of washing. Water level indicator, temperature control devices are present on the machine. Single rotating and double rotating are available in the machine normally single rotation is used. From washing machine the garments are transferred to the hydro extractor, where the water is squeezed out of the garments. Proper drying takes place in the driers. Tumble drier is used for drying the garments completely. The machine stops automatically when the door is opened during its working. During time is varied with the weight of the fabric. In laundry, random checking is done in a lot before and after washing. The number of pieces received for washing and delivered after washing is reported in daily production report.

Machines and their make: SECO Garment processing ED280MP ( front loading) Thane Capacity: 100 kg. Ramsons (front loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 60kg 86

Ramsons (top loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 70kg

Smartex (front loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 500kg

Ramsons Steam dryer Bangalore Capacity: 120kg.

Ramsons Hydro extractor Bangalore Capacity: 100kg

Report: Checking report: Style: P.O: Buyer: Garment: Color: Quantity check: Defects:

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MAINTAINENCE:The main object of this department is the machines of various style & tools required for the process of garment production is been maintained & made provision of supplying of required machine & tools. Break down machines, power cut each & every electrical & mechanical parts are been maintained. They also supply safety materials which required for process for workers.

Employees details:In charge: Chikkaiah Total man power: 26 Electrician: 8 Mechanic: 12 Stores: 1 (2 batch: 1 mechanic 2 floor: 1 electrician) Machine lubrication is done in once in 3 months (floor wise).

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Requirement of various machine style flow:Planning Merchandizing IED Analysis & issue the machine to the batch

Machine suppliers: Juki Japan Brother Japan Pegasus Japan Eastman America Hashima Japan Ram sons Bangalore Durkopp Adler Germany Sun star China Siruba China

Machine used:Machine type Straight knife cutting machine Band knife machine End cutter Fusing machine Single needle machine Single needle machine Single needle machine end cutter Single needle machine end cutter Make Eastman Wastema Eastman Hashima Juki Brother Juki Brother Make BLSTII 629 STU 492 EC 3 HP 100 ED DDL 5530 DB2 B736 DLM 5200N DB2 B777 BA

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Single needle machine end cutter Single needle machine UBT Single needle machine UBT Over lock machine Over lock machine Feed off form Double needle machine Double needle machine 12N chain stitch machine Button hole machine Button hole machine Button stitch machine Button stitch machine Bar tack machine Bar tack machine Key hole machine Key hole machine

Siruba Juki Brother Juki Siruba Juki Juki Brother Kansai Juki Brother Juki Brother Juki Brother Juki Reece

L818F RM1 DDL 5550 N3 SL 737A 403 MO 3616 757F 516M2 35 MS 1261 LH 3138 LT 2 B8453 KS 1412 PQ LBH 781 LH4 B814 2 LK 1903 LK 3 P438E LK 1900 LK3 P430E 2 MEB 3200 S 100

Reports: Machine requirement for batches: Batch : Type of machine required:

Goods received note:Item Item name Item description UOM Quantity Location Lot number

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