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Chapter One
Company Profile
Introduction of Company
NIAGARA Textiles Ltd. is one of the leading Textile products manufacturing company in Bangladesh.Fig-01: Niagara Textile Ltd.The company is managed by a group of dynamic professionals, working proactively in a challenging environment. NIAGARA is committed to provide excellent services to its clients. It is dedicated to focus on quality in order to excel in its performance. They make every effort to delight their customers by producing best quality Textile products at a finest price through efficient utilization of available resources. They manufacture and export high quality textile products at a rational price produced in an environmental friendly process and working high level of honesty and justice in dealing with our stakeholders. Their mission is to provide excellent quality and value added textile products at a competitive price for ultimate satisfaction of our customers.Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has passed through different huddles & obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can compete with all its competitors in price and quality as well as variety. In this situation, Niagara Textiles Ltd. is a vertically set up textiles unit, which starts its operation in 2001 from knitting and ships the end product i.e. garments. The factory is well operational with high performance machinery and experienced technicians are engaged here to ensure the quality and customer satisfaction. They can produce international standard fabric and garments.
Dhaka EPZNandan ParkLocation Map From BUBT to NTL
NiagaraTextileLtd.
FantasyKingdomSaver GolfClub
Gabtali BusStand
NationalZoo
Bangladesh-KoreaTechnicalInstitute
SonyCinemaBUBT2ndCampus
BUBTPermanentCampus
Layout NIAGARA TEXTILE LIMITED
W.T.PTraining building( Steel building-2 )Floor-3 finishing, Floor-2 cutting, Floor-1 carton store/grey store/organic store
(Steel Building-3) Finishing
Building-1*Floor -7 gmts store/dining*Floor-6,5,4,3 sewing *Floor-2 office/ prayer/sample*Floor-1 knittingDyeing sectionFinishing section
(Steel building-1)Yarn storeMedical and day care centre
Chemical storeGrey fabric inspection room
Brush roomCompressor roomE.T.P
Electrical workshop
Generator room
H.R.DStore roomReceived roomGas sub- station roomReceip-tionSecurity room Building-2
Boiler roomMechanical workshop *Floor-7 Dining *Floor-6,5,4,3 Sewing *Floor-2 Printing *Floor-1 Knitting
Dhaka Tangail Road
West North South East
General Information
Name of the factory: NIAGARA TEXTILE LTD.(NTL).
Owner of the factory: Mr. Ahsan Habib, Chairman Mr. Nurul Hasan Mukti, M.D. Mr.Abu Baker Siddique, Director Mr. Shahinur Islam Zinnah, Director
Location of the factory: Chandra Circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakoir, Gazipur.
Head office: 27 Bijoy Nagar,Suite#C-1(1st floor),Dhaka-1000.
Commertial Production Started: 2001.
Business Line: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality Knitted fabric.
Manpower: 4500 employees (Approx)
Member of :
Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Association (BKMEA). Bangladesh Garment Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA). Industrial & Business Welfare Foundation (IBWF).
Vision:To be the most ideal garment and building a true marketing with motivated workforce, innovative vision, and strong revenue based product, customer satisfaction & understand of global market.
Mission:To provide customized sourcing and logistics solutions to global clients having unique requirements. To achieve consistent high quality levels and on-time delivery schedules, through a team of committed personnel and a proven set of vendors with World Class, systematic manufacturing facilities.To open window for new avenue of business diver sit and development team always keen to deal new type of product apart from garments and textile items.
Product Range of NTL1. Fabric2. Long Wear3. Active Wear4. Sleep Wear5. Athletic Wear6. Sports Wear7. Under Wear
NTL has categorized its products in two main categories which are known as:1. Tops2. Bottoms
TOPS High Neck Polo Shirt T- Shirt V- Neck Raglan Shirt Jacket Tank Top
BOTTOMS Pant Short Trouser Underwear
Production capacity:
Garments Division (60,000 Pcs ready made garments per day ) Knitting Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day) Dyeing & Finishing Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day) Printing Section (Capacity:50000 Pcs/day-One Color Basic Rubber Print)
Export Countries:
Banking Information:Bank used for L.CAwards & Certificates:1)
Best Compliant Factory 2008 by BKMEA2)
WRAP(Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)
3)
OekoTex 100(OEKO-TEX Standard 100)
4)
OE 100(Organic Exchange 100)5)
OE BLENDED (Organic Exchange Blended)
6)
BSCI (Business Social Compliance Issues)Facility:
Here are some existing facilities given below:
Pure Drinking Water Supply
Dining Hall
Auto Attendance
CAD/CAM
ERP
Own Covered Van
In house printing
Well Equipped Lab
Full Time Medical
Baby Day Care
Transportation
Fully Compliant
Physical Infrastructure
1) Two concrete building (seven storied)2) Three steel buildingPower produce by gas generator and petrol generator
Area details :
Building-1( Knitting,Office,Sewing,Garment store,Dining) -------------9000sft/floor
Building-2(Knitting collar,Printing,Sewing,Dining)----------------------5500sft/floor
Steel building 1(Bonded warehouse )---------------------------------------40,000 sft
Steel building 2( Grey store,Cutting,Garments finishing )--------------18500sft/floor
Dyeing & finishing(1)--------------------------------------------------------20000sft
Steel building 3 (Dyeing,finishing 2)--------------------------------------14000sft
Grand Total = 2, 08,500 sft
Different Departments:
Production Oriented Department: Yarn store Raw fabric store & Raw fabric inspection section Knitting Planning & Control Batching Chemical store Dyeing Section Finishing Section Dyeing lab section Wet lab Garments Section Quality Control Maintenance Utility Water treatment plant
Supporting department: Merchandising Marketing Compliance IT HRD Finance & accounting Medical Personnel Administration
NTL Present Clients:
Chapter Two
Management System
Organogram of knitting section
Organogram of Dyeing section:
Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section: Organogram of Garment Production Section:
Table-01: Manpower of NTLSectionMaleFemaleTotal
Office Staff60516621
Admin13082212
Boiler67067
Knitting96096
Dyeing4080408
Cutting13879217
Printing185775
Sewing53416132147
Finishing355140495
Total235119874338
Table-02:Shift Change (only for Dyeing and Knitting section):General shift is applicable for some officers.ShiftFromTo
A6am2pm
B_2pm10am
C_10pm6am
General Shift8am5pm
Management System:
Buyer sample is send to G.M. Matching is done by lab in charge. Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing master. Sample is send to the buyer for approval. Approved sample is returned and taken as standard sample for bulk production. Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer. Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master. After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer. After finishing, the material is checked by asst. dyeing master. Finally G.M. checks the result with asst. dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.The Activities of Human Resource Department: Human resources planning Staffing Training & Development Compensation Management Employee Evaluation Employee Movement and ReplacementDuties & Responsibilities of Different DesignationManaging Director: To deal with the buyer and merchandiser. To set up price for the product. To plan apply and control all administrative functions. To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.General Manager: He meets with marketing team for future orders, present order status, and product costing and to discuss capacity status of the factory/s.He takes decision to accept any order or not when there is less margin. He handles production issues and when required he can directly contact to buyer for approval of variations. Production planning, Material planning and machinery planning is done or reviewed by him. For the reduction of making cost and production friendly samples, he changes technical setting of the garment. He attends pre-production meeting and ensure that important points are discussed at meeting. He does follow up day to day production from each line and ensures that production units meet the production target. He ensures that factory produces quality product at minimum alteration and repair cost. He ensures that only quality goods are shipped to the buyers. He plans shipment dispatch with documentation and shipping department. He checks manpower costing of each floor and try to keep manpower cost under control. Cost cutting is continuous goal to a General Manager. He looks into things possible ways where production cost can be minimized and goes for it. To motivate employees and enrich their knowledge in certain areas training program is arranged by him. He makes sure that all factories are compliance as per buyer. He ensures smooth flow of information and material from one department to another. He resolves inter-departmental issues if there is any.Manager: To supervise the personal working under him To plan the sequence of production To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production? To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (production): Has the responsibilities for running the garment department including production planning, operation control, measuring and monitoring of product and the process. Inspection test status, taking corrective and preventive action. Controlling nonconforming products at intermediate and final stages in Garment Department. Analyzing product and process performance form measurement process to identify area for improvement.Production Manager: Receives cutting fabrics according style, color and size formcutting section Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A.G.M. in three time every day. Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line supervisors. Control the Sewing In charge, Q.C, Assist Q.C., supervisor, Asst. Supervisor, quality Inspector, Operator & helper. Maintain floor discipline & cleanness. Any other works as & when required by the management.
Quality Check (Sewing):
Check every complete garment, oil mark, dirty spot, yarn marks, fabric fault. Check the ironing of complete garment. Control the measurement and tolerance. Prepare the pre-final quality control report. Checks getup property. Shade matching base to base & country wise. Any other works as and when required by the management.
Quality Check (Cutting): Prepare batch wise cutting report and send to the authorized person. After complete the fabrics cutting report to A. G. M. of garment. Prepare weekly cutting report. Control the pattern master, Cutting master, Cutting supervisor, Cutting man, Neck man, Cutting helper & Labor Control the cutting quality for bulk production, shrinkage & consumption. Look after the cutting & band knife machine.Sewing in Charge: Receives cutting fabrics according to style, color & size from cutting section. Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A. G. M. in three time everyday. Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line supervisors. Control the sewing in charge Q.C., Asst. Supervisor,quality inspector, operator & helper. Maintain floor discipline & cleanness. Any other works as & when required by the management
Chapter Three
Machine Description
Knitting Section
Table-03: Flat knitting machine ( Machine Specification):
SL. NOBrand NameModelMachine GaugePowerLengthOrigin
01KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
02KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
03KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
04KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
05KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
06KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
07KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
08KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
09KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
10KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
11KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
12KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
13KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
14KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
15KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
16KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
17KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
18KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
19KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
20KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
21KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
22KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
23KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
24KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
25KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
26KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN
27JY LEHJS-10114220V80TAIWAN
28JY LEHJS-10114220V80TAIWAN
Table-04: Circular knitting machine (Machine Specification):
NoBrand NameMachineTypeMachineDiaMachineGaugeOrigin
01PAI LUNGDouble Jersey3618TAIWAN
02PAI LUNGDouble Jersey4018TAIWAN
03PAI LUNGDouble Jersey4218TAIWAN
04PAI LUNGDouble Jersey3818TAIWAN
05PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN
06PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN
07PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN
08PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN
09PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2424TAIWAN
10PAI LUNGSingle Jersey 2324TAIWAN
11PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2224TAIWAN
12PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2124TAIWAN
13PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2124TAIWAN
14PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2024TAIWAN
15TERROTDouble Jersey3622GERMANY
16TERROTDouble Jersey3022GERMANY
17TERROTDouble Jersey3622GERMANY
18TERROTDouble Jersey3422GERMANY
19ORIZIODouble Jersey3024ITALY
20ORIZIODouble Jersey3024ITALY
21PAI LUNGSingle Jersey2524TAIWAN
22PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN
23PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3624TAIWAN
24PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3418TAIWAN
25PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3018TAIWAN
Table-05: Auto Stripe Machine (Machine Specification):
NoManufacturer NameMachineDiaMachine GaugeModelOrigin
01PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS, LTD.3424VX-RSY3REJAPAN
02PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS, LTD.3024VX-RSY3REJAPAN
Table-06: Machines used for dyeing labMachine NameBrandOriginCapacity
Sample dyeing machineFONGS HONGKONG
Sample dyeing machineFONGS HONGKONG
Sample dyeing machineFONGS HONGKONG
Tumble dryerWhirlpoolAMERICA6 kg
Tumble dryerWhirlpoolAMERICA6 kg
Incubator(perspiration, water, Saliva test machine)memmertGERMANY
Spectro photometerDatacolorUSA
Color fastness to rubbingCrockmasterEngland
PH materHANNAUSA
Shaker machineGFLKOREA
Washing machineWascaterSweden6 kg
Color machine cabinetVerivideEngland
Table-07: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Sample):MachineNoBrandNameCapacityNo. of NozzleMaximumOperatingTemperatureManufacturingYearOrigin
01PMM (Atmospheric Winch)25kg0198c2001Turkey
02PMM (Atmospheric Winch)25kg0198c2002Turkey
03PMM (Atmospheric Winch)25kg0198c2005Turkey
04ACME (High Temperature Winch)50kg01135c2005Taiwan
05PMM (Atmospheric Winch)25kg0198c2005Turkey
06DILMENLER (High Temperature Winch)50kg01135c2005Turkey
Table-08: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Production):
MachineNoBrandNameCapacityNo. of NozzleMaximumOperatingTemperatureManufacturingYearOrigin
01PMM (Atmospheric Winch)200kg0298c2001Turkey
02PMM (Atmospheric Winch)300kg0398c2001Turkey
03PMM (Atmospheric Winch)400kg0498c2001Turkey
04PMM (Atmospheric Winch)600kg0698c2001Turkey
05PMM (Atmospheric Winch)700kg0898c2002Turkey
06ACME (High Temperature Winch)600kg02135c2005Taiwan
07PMM (Atmospheric Winch)750kg0598c2005Turkey
08PMM (Atmospheric Winch)300kg02135c2003Turkey
09PMM (Atmospheric Winch)100kg0198c2005Turkey
10DILMENLER (High Temperature Winch)150kg01135c2005Turkey
11DILMENLER (High Temperature Winch)300kg01135c2005Turkey
12DILMENLER (High Temperature Winch)450kg02135c2005Turkey
13ACME (High Temperature Winch)1200kg04135c2006Taiwan
14ACME (High Temperature Winch)1500kg05135c2006Taiwan
15ACME (High Temperature Winch)1200kg04135c2008Taiwan
16SCLAVOS300kg01135c2012Greece
Dyeing finishing Section:
Table-09: Hydro-extractor Machine(Machine Specification):
SL. NOBrand NameMachine SpeedWorking WidthMachine TypeYearOrigin
01BENEKS10-80 m/min350mm-1400mmBS.16002001Turkey
Table-10: Dryer machine(Machine Specification):
SL. NOBrand NameNo of BlowerOrigin
01PPM03Turkey
Table-11: Tubular Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):
SL NOBrand NameOrigin
01SERTEKSTurkey (Istanbul)
Compactor temperature depends on fabric construction and GSM.
Table-12: Slitter machine (Machine Specification)
SL NO.Brand NameMaximum Speed (m/min)Construction YearOrigin
01Bianco902013Italy
02Bianco902006Italy
Table-13: Stenter Machine (Machine Specification)
NO. of M/CBrand NameModel NoW/WNo. of BurnerNo. of ChamberNo. of BlowerNo. of MotorManufacturing yearOrigin
02LK & LH CO.LTDFWS-920 TKM
2800mm060612802005Taiwan
Table-14: Textile Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):
NO. OF M/CBrand NameMaximum SpeedTable Width MaximumOrigin
02Bianco30m/min105 inchItaly
Table-15: Compaction Machine Parameter
SL. No.Fabric TypeG.S.MMachine SpeedStream Pressure(BAR)Temperature
01Single Jersey
120-130153-4120c-130c
02Single Jersey
140-160183-4120c-130c
03Single Jersey
160-220203-4120c-130c
04Double Lacost200-220253-4120c-130c
05Single Lacost200-220253-4120c-130c
06Fleece350-360253-4120c-130c
07Fleece380-40025-303-4120c-130c
08L-Single Jersey200-220153-4120c-130c
09Rib200-220153-4120c-130c
1022Rib220-250153-4120c-130c
11Interlock240-260123-4120c-130c
12Cotton/Viscose200-220123-4120c-130c
Table-16: Brush machine (Machine Specification):
SL NO.Brand nameOrigin
01ART-TexTAIWAN
Table-17: Garment washing machine specification:
SL. NO.Brand nameModelPowerYearOrigin
01Flying tigerWA-4
440v2014Taiwan
02Flying tigerWA-4
440v2014Taiwan
Table-18: Tumble dryer machine (Machine Specification):
Machine NO.Brand NameModel NoOrigin
01WHOLE PLANTPT-3Taiwan
02WHOLE PLANTPT-4Taiwan
03WHOLE PLANTPT-4Taiwan
04TA TING MECHINERY CO. LTD.TT-120Taiwan
05PEACOCK MECHINERY WORKS CO. LTD.PC-7Taiwan
06PEACOCK MECHINERY WORKS CO. LTD.PC-7Taiwan
07PEACOCK MECHINERY WORKS CO. LTD.PC-7Taiwan
08PEACOCK MECHINERY WORKS CO. LTD.PC-7Taiwan
Garments Section
Table-19: Sewing machine used in sample section:
Machine NameBrand NameQuantity
Lock stitch machineJUKI12
Flat lock machinePEGASUS03
Over lock machinePEGASUS08
Over lock machineJUKI01
Zigzag machineJUKI02
Total=26
Table-20: CAD SL NOMachine NameBrand NameYearOrigin
01CADLectra2006France
02CADLectra2010France
03Digitizing board/Drawing boardLectra2006France
Table-21: Straight Knife Cutting Machine (Specification):SL NO.Brand NameVoltSpeedPhaseBlade LengthOrigin
01Mack2303000/3600110Japan
02Mack2303000/3600110Japan
03Mack2303000/3600110Japan
04Mack2303000/3600110Japan
05Mack2303000/3600110Japan
06Mack2303000/3600110Japan
07Mack2303000/3600110Japan
08Mack2303000/3600110Japan
09Mack2303000/3600110Japan
10Mack2303000/3600110Japan
11Mack2303000/3600108Japan
12Mack2303000/3600108Japan
Table-22: Band knife (Specification):
SL NO.Brand NameCutting capacityWeightVoltKnife sizeOrigin
01KM180mm218kg2203360100.45mmChina
Sewing section
Table-23: Types of machine list
NoTypes of machinesQuantityBrand Name
01Plain machine629Juki
02Flat lock machine174Pegasus, Juki, Amata
03Over lock machine319Pegasus, Juki, Amata
04Back tape6Kansai
05Button stitch19Pegasus
06Snap button9Prym, YK
07Puckding5Kansai
08Rip cutting9Pegasus
09PMD2Kansai
10Bar tack8Juki
11Button hole16Pegasus
12Feed of the arm2Juki
13Re-cone2Hasima
142 Needle plain machine2Juki
15DFD1Kansai
16Zigzag plain machine2Juki
17Cover stitch2Juki
18Smoke (Elastic thread)1Kansai
Total machine1208
Finishing section
Table-24: Thread sucker
SL NO.Brand NameYearOrigin
01UZV2005Thailand
02UZV2005Thailand
03UZV2005Thailand
04UZV2005Thailand
Table-25: Needle Detector Machine
SL NO.Brand NameOrigin
01CINTEXEngland
02PANDORA ASSOCIATESEngland
Printing Section
Table-26: Auto heat pressNO. of M/CBrand NameOrigin
01JupiterChina
Table-27: Curing Machine
NO. of M/CBrand Name
01SIROCO FAN
Table-28: Dryer Machine
NO. of M/CModelBrand NameOrigin
16Fakang 321PhilipsUnited States
Chapter Four
Raw Material
Table-29: Raw material for knitting
Types of yarnCount
Cotton20Ne,24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne,32Ne,34Ne,36Ne,40Ne,45Ne
Polyester70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn20D,40D
Grey Melange24Ne,26Ne
Ecru Melange24Ne,26Ne,28Ne
Cotton Melange24Ne,26Ne,28Ne
PC (Polyester 65% & Cotton 35%)24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne
CVC (Polyester 60% & cotton 40%)24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne
Raw materials for dyeing:
Raw materials used in the dyeing section are: 1. Grey fabrics 2. Dyes 3. Chemicals.
Raw materials for cutting:
Marker Paper Finished Fabric
Raw materials for sewing:
Garment parts Sewing thread Trims & Accessories
Raw materials for Garment Finishing:
Garments Tag pin Hang tag Poly bag Levels Hanger Carton
Chapter Five
Internship Activity
KNITTING SectionProcess Definition:The fundamental unit of a knitted fabric is the loop. Any circular knitted fabric is composed of row after row of intermeshed loops. Different types of fabric are made of different method of intermeshing the loops. The gross dimension of knitted fabric is simply a reflection of any shape & size of individual loops. There are several key variables in the production which affect the average shape & size of the loops. After knitting the grey fabric is dyed to required shade & finished to required weight & width.
Fig-02: Knitting Section
Process flow chart of knitting:Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement & tension device
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric & weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Different Section of Knitting:
KnittingKnitting Section CollarKnitting SectionKnitting Section AKnitting SectionB
Knitting Collar Section
Fig-03: Flat Knitting Machine
Uses of Flat Knitting Machines:
The common products: jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves, accessories, ribs forstraight-bar machines(fully fashioned machines). Cleaning clothes, three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, multi-axial machines are under development.
Source of yarn for knitting: Sinha rotor spinning ltd. Al-haj karim textile ltd. Padma textile Prime textile FM yarn dyeing ltd. Jamuna spinning Square textile Viyellatex spinning ltd. Delta spinning mills ltd. Apex yarn dyeing
Fig-03: Yarn
Layout of Knitting collar section:
TableTable
Exit
Exit
Self
First aid box North Flat knitting machine(Small)
Flat knitting machine(Large) WestEast
South
Layout of Knitting Section -A
Fabric Inspection Machine
OfficeOffice
Exit
Fabric Store
Exit
South
Circular knitting machine East West Auto stripe machine
North
Layout of Knitting Section -B
Exit
ExitExit
Office
First aid box
Danger electricity South
East West Circular knitting machine
North
FABRIC TYPES:
1)Single Jersey a) Single jersey (Plain) b) Single lacostec) Double lacosted) Polo piquee) Fleece fabric 2)Double jerseya) Rib fabrici) 1x1 Ribii) 2x1 Ribiii) 2x2 Rib Fig-04: Marking after weightiv) Lycra Ribv) Flat Back Rib b) Interlock fabrici) Plain interlockii) Drop needle interlock 3) Back Brush.
4) Collar and Cuffi) Plain Collar or Solid collarii) Shaving Collar.iii) Jacquard Collar.iv) Tipping Collar.v) Race Collar.vi) Stripe Collar. 5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric. Fig-04: Fabric
Grey fabric store:
They collect grey fabrics from the knitting section and keep in a rack with resister and attach bin card. Before requisition comes from dyeing section they keep it in the store.
Process flow chart of grey fabric store:
(Receive/Keeping/Issue system)
Fabric Receive
Inventory 100% as per challan and maintain resister
Keeping the fabrics on the rack and color wise indicating bin card
Posting in the resister as per buyer
Fig-05: Weighting
Not ok fabric will return to dyeing storeIssue the fabrics as per requisition
Batch Section:
After requisition comes from the dyeing they deliver the grey fabric to the batch section.
Batch Process Flow Chart:
Fabric Received & stored
Fabric Divided according to Diameter after buyers recommendation
Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation
Inspection
Send forDyeing
Function or purpose of batch section:
To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. To perform the grey inspection. Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every fabrics before dyeing.
Dyeing Lab
Fig-06: Some equipment of dyeing lab
Layout of Dyeing lab
11910 Table4321
Standard sampleShrinkage board
Exit
Table
Desk
Desk
Almirah
Exit
11
Light boxComputerPrinter765
West
111Machine North South
East
Flow chart of dyeing lab:
Color from buyer
Find color in panton book
Color ? Panton no.
Swatch
Scan swatch in CMC data color machine
Find color in shade book
Match similar color
Select most similar color
Take recipe from shade book
Dyes are selected according to fastness
Recipe preparationReassume recipe based on colorDiference between current color& buyer color
Dye stock/pipeting
Salt dosing
Insert fabric
Soda dosing
Machine for heating
Cooling up to room temp.
Fabrics unload from machine
Cold wash
Hot wash
Dry err/Iron
Shade matching No
Appoved ? Yes
Preparing 3 sample fo buyer
Defining LD no. for each sample
Sent to buyer
Buyer approved ?No
LD no. to merchandiser
Dyeing recipe sheet to dyeingLab Dip
Dyeing Floor
Dyeing Deputy Manager Dyeing Manager Office Office
Exit
HeaterExit
m/c
m/c
m/cm/cm/c
m/cm/cm/c
m/cm/c
m/c
m/cm/c
m/cm/c
m/c
m/cm/c
m/c
m/cm/cm/c
South
m/c Dyeing machine West East
North
Following types of gray fabrics are dyed: Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Polo pique Single lacoste Fleece Interlock Interlock with lycra Rib Rib with lycra Different types of collar & cuff
Fig-07: Dyeing Floor
Fig-07: Unloading Dyed fabric from machine
Dyeing Finishing Section Layout of finishing section: 1
SqueezerOffice Fabric store Exit
Compactor machine
Inspection tableTable
Inspection table
rack
Fabric inspection machine
rack Exit
Slitting machineStenter machine
Fabric inspection zone
Compactor machineDryer machineSlitting machine
Hydro- extractor
rack
Compactor machine
Slitting machine
rack
South
WestEast
North
Lay out of finishing section 2:
RackRack
Rack Exit
Rack
Compactor machineTable
Over lock machine
Rack
Over lock m/cStenter machine
South
West East
North
Dyeing finishing:
Finishing machineries are used for applying varies types of finishes to the fabric or textile materials.All the finishing sequence is not same. Finishing sequence depends on the material type. Say, dyed yarn finishing process or garments finishing process is not similar as knit fabric finishing process. Although, finishing sequence of open form and tubular fabric form is not similar. After dyeing ,knit is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form.
Following machineries are used for tubular from fabric finishing:
Hydro-extractor MachineDryer Tubular Compactor
Hydro-extractor Machine:
It is designed for squeezing of the knitting fabrics in tubular form after dyeing and washing also can be use softener. For the totaly automatic operation of the line it is necessary to install a turntable, which receivers the control from the de-twister. The machine is completely made of stainless steel.
Fig-08: Hydro-extractor Machine
Dryer machine:
Drying is done afterde-wateringof fabric. Intextilefinishingunit; dryer uses for dry the knit. But the drying process and drying mechanism of fabrics is different from one to another. The main functions of a textile dryer is to dry the textile fabrics. Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric.
Fig-09: Dryer Machine (Feed Zone)
Fig-09: Dryer Machine (Back Side)
Function of Dryer machine:
Function of dryer: Various types of functions are achieved by the dryer. Following functions are most common.
1) To dry the fabric. 2) To control the overfeed system.3) To control vibration which increase the GSM.4) To control shrinkage % of the fabric.5) To control the GSM of the fabric.6) To match the shade of the fabric.7) To adjust the tone of the fabric.Tubular Compactor Machine:Tubular compactor machine is referred to the compactor machine for tubular knitted fabrics which is used as finishing machine. It is used for shrinkage control, GSM control, compact the fabric and increase smoothness of fabric. Tubular compactor isindustrial machineryused after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer.Functions of Tubular Compactor: 1. Shrinkage control,2. Fabric width control,3. GSM Control,4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the tubular compactor.5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra inquality machine6. Shade checking,7. Width checking,8. Edge line checking Fig-10: Tubular Compactor Machine
Following machineries are used for open form fabric finishing:
Slitter Machine Stenter Machine Open Compactor
Function of the Slitting Machine:
1)To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark2) Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.3) To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.4) Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer. 5) It can control the diameter of fabric andGSMandshrinkageby over feeding mechanism. 6) To prepare the fabric for nextstentering process. Fig-12: Slitting MachineFunction of Stenter Machine:
1) GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.2) Spirality controlled by the stenter.3) Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.4) Loop of the knit fabric is controlled by the stenter.5) Finishing chemicals apply on the fabric by the stenter.6) Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.7) Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.8) Fabric is dried by the stenter.9) Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Fig-12: Stenter MachineTextile Compactor Machine:
Compactor is a textilefinishing machinewhich is designed specially for compacting 100% cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. as well as cotton blended fabric in rope form, changing the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to plaited form. Fitted with two felt compacting units which makes it to obtain top quality fabric, with minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.
Function of compactor machine
1) GSMcontrol of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increases2) Control shrinkage.3) Twisting control.4) Increase smoothness of fabric.5) Heat setting is done of fabric etc.
Fig-13: Compactor Machine
Garment Sample Section Layout of sample section:
Dummy room
RackRack
Iron table
Inspection table
Iron table
Pattern tablepc
Exit
Input table
Input tableInput table
Ready for cutting Cutting table
Exit
East
Sewing machine SouthNorth
WestRack
Sample Section
Sample is the specimen of any product. Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like. Sample is the physical form of design. In Apparel Industry- Sample is the physical form of buyers style.
Some Complete Sample in dummy
Fig-14: Some photo of sample section
Sewing machine used in sample section:Machine NameBrand NameQuantity
Lock stitch machineJUKI12
Flat lock machinePEGASUS03
Over lock machinePEGASUS08
Over lock machineJUKI01
Zigzag machineJUKI02
Total=26
Operation break down for sample section:
There are nine groups of operator in sample section each group has two operator. One group complete one sample garment whole by using the different types of sewing machine that they needed.Design or Sketch: It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of particular style.
Basic Block: It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.
Working Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension. .
Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.
Approved Sample:The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Send to Buyer: When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer. Fig-15: Digitizing BoardProduction Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.
Pattern Making:
Pattern is the one of important element of a design. In a garment industries there are two type of pattern uses based on their capability. Mostly big companies are use CAD (Computer aided design) as well as little companies uses manual pattern. In NIAGARA use CAD also manual pattern in some cases. Basically Lectra Software uses here.
Picture of PatternMarker section:
In NIAGARA marker is made both manual system & automatic system. In computer aided marker NIAGARA use Lectra software. In manual marker making process, marker man use pattern paper to draw different garments parts in marker paper.
Fig-16: Marker paper
Sample required for different types of buyer in Niagara textile
Sample stages for signet
a) Fit sampleb) Size set samplec) If size set sample is approved than pre production sample
Sample stages for H&M
a) Quatation sampleb) Size set samplec) Counter sample
Sample stages for BANEX
a) Fit sampleb) Pre production samplec) Sales man sample
Sample stages for SEARS
a) Fit sampleb) Photo samplec) Pre production
Sample stages for EURO CENTER
a) Fit sampleb) Size set samplec) Pre production sampled) Counter sampleFig-17: Some Sample
Cutting SectionLayout of cutting section:
Office Room Fabrics Relax zone
Cutting Table-1 Cutting Table -14
Cutting Table-2 Cutting Table-3 Ready for Input
Cutting Table-13 Cutting Table-12
Cutting Table-4 Cutting Table-5
Cutting Table-11
Cutting Table-6
Cutting Table-10
Cutting Table-7 Cutting Table-8
Cutting Table-9
Input Fabric
Male ToiletTable
East
South North
West
Fabric Spreading & Cutting Section
Spreading - layering the fabrics:
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk production.Fig-18: Fabric Relaxation & Spreading
Objectives of spreading process:
Understanding the process of fabric spreading Factors affecting spreading Face and nap of the fabric
Table-30: Fabric spreading system:
Fabric typeHeightlength
Fleece4 inch6 yard
Rib (1x1,2x2)3 inch4 yard
Lycra single jersey2 inch4 yard
Single jersey10-15 inch5 yard
Types of Lay Plan:
Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher.
Fig-19: Fabric Spreading
Types of Lay Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.
Forms of Spreading: One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. Face to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.
Fig-19: Fabric SpreadingRequirements of Spreading Process: 1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.
2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in garments due to variation in dimension. 7. Checks and stripes should be matched.
Fabric CuttingCutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garment components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most critical, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes. Cutting can be done manually using powered knives or by computer-controlled system. Fig-20: Fabric Cutting
Flowchart chart of cutting section
Receive fabric from dyeing
Shade check with standard
Shrinkage check
GSM & fabric dia check
Fabric relaxation
Tension & dia are sameSpreading check
Marker ratio all parts presentsMarker check
Lay & cut panel measurement check
Cut mark shape measure deviation
Country sticker according to cut off
Numbering & bundling
All types of fabric defectsFabric kept from some rollPanel check
Re- cut
Re-cut panel checkPrint & embroidery check
Sewing input
Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics:Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:- Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.) Thickness of fabric. Design characteristics of finished garment. Machines and tables used.Equipment use in cutting section:
1) Straight knife knitting machine2) Band knife3) Numbering machine4) Punch machine 5) Scissor Fig-20: Fabric CuttingHere Scissor is used in 100% cases in cutting section. Straight Knife is used in 100% cases for bulk cutting directly from lay cutting.Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used. This machine is calledstraight knife cutting machinebecause its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency.
Features of Straight knife: Fig-23: Straight knife1. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.2. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.3. High cutting speed.4. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.5. Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.
Band knife
KM Band Knife Cutters are for Exact Cutting of small parts. Selected the most optimum type from among a wide section from and easily removable.
Cutting faults
Needle break Contamination Pin hole Oil spot Patta Hale Yarn missing Color spot Slub Fig-22: Band knife Crease mark Embroidery defects Print spot
Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.
Fig-23: Bundling
Numbering: Only for small parts different color is used for numbering.
Table-31: Numbering Sticker SizeColor
XXLBlue
XLBlack
LGreen
MRed
SBlue
Fig-24: Numbering
Numbering with Machine Label size: 22mmx12mmModel Number:Blitz 2253
Layer & Shade Numbering Machine for Garment Industries. Self Adhesive labels In variable colors for different fabrics.
There are three number indicating -12880088
128=cutting number80=size no. 088=lay no. Fig-24: Numbering with machine
Quality control flow chart of cutting
Cutting
Pattern checkReceive fabric from dye store
Size set make and check measurement
Check fabric shade,GSM, twisting & shrinkage
If ok pilot cut 200 pieces
If pass sent for relaxation
If not ok adjust pattern size set make & check measurement
If not ok return to dye store
If ok pass for bulk cutting
Lay height
Lay tensionCheck in laying period
Roll separation
Knotch markCheck in table after cut
Shape
Defect part replace by following shade
T.M.B same or notCut panel check 100%
Spot, reject, pin hole etc.
Print & EBM check
Ok cut goods pass to sewingDefect part pass to back process
Printing Section
Fig-25: Printing Section
Factors Affecting Cost of Printing:
Type of printing Size of printing Number of color of printing Any grading of size of printing from size to size Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals Lab test requirement Wash sustainability Tolerance in placement of print art-work Tolerance in color shade variation Place of printing
Layout of printing section:
Input rack
Printing table-1
Exit Exit
Printing table-3Printing table-2
Camera roomOffice room
Color room
Quality tableFemale toilet
Curing machine
Male toilet
Sample table
Heat set
North
East West
South
SEWING SECTIONSewing:
This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where sewers stitch fabric pieces together, and a garment is assembled. Computerized sewing machines (costly) can be programmed to sew a specific number of stitches to perform a standard operation, such as setting a zipper or sewing a collar.
Fig-26: Some Photo of Sewing Section
Working Procedure of Sewing Department:1. Garments Analysis Planning2. Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)3. Machine layout4. Operator layout5. Quality control of product1. Line Balancing Layout2. Line setup (advance or normal)3. Process distribution1. Parts Received from cutting dept. Sewing2. Parts storing/racking3. Parts distribution to the operator and helper4. Position mark to components where required5. Parts making (individual)6. Inline Quality Checking/auditing7. Parts assembling8. Inline quality audit.9. Output counting & checked with the target10. End line quality audit Preparation for Finishing1. Thread Trimming Department2. Quality Inspection 3. Garment measuringName of the machines used in sewing section are: Single needle lock stitch machine Double needle lock stitch machine Single needle chain stitch machine Double needle chain stitch machine 4 thread Over lock machine 5 thread Over lock machine Flat lock machine Bar tack machine Button hole machine Button attaching machine Rib cutting machine Kansai machine
Some Sewing Machine Photo
Fig-27: Some Sewing Section MachineActivities of sewing section:
Attend pre-production meeting Receive sample Receive work sheet Receive Approved swatch Operation Break-down Machine layout Receive cut Fabric from cutting section by using Receiving Register Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker Marking at necessary parts Input First production approved by Q.C. department Look after production Cycle check Line Balancing Target setting Co-operative with Q.C. Department Hand over complete Garments to finishing section through end line Q.C. Inspector Show hourly production on production board Prepare every day input and production statement Maintain discipline and working environsTools and equipment of sewing section:
Rack for cut fabric keeping (for every line) Desk for trims keeping(with lock for every line) Supporting table for bigger components operation (as per required) Desk (one for every operator)first aid-box(at every corner of the factory) Fire extinguisher(at every corner of the factory) Hammer Big scissors Hand needles Bodkin Tailors chalk Pencil Small scissor.
Picture of Some Stitch
Fig:Over lock stitch Fig: Flat lock stitch Fig:Botton hole Fig: Bar tack stitch
Fig:Zig-Zag Stitch Fig:Gathering Stitch
Fig-28: Picture of Some Stitch
Button attachment flow chart
Sewing output before button attach
Quality tableCheck the garments as per buyer requirement
Production coordinator(PC)Size wise separate the garments
Marking by correct pattern
Mark table
Attach on female part
Attach on the male pat
Mark following by male part
Checking :1) Button position2) Button stitch3) Button line4) Broken button5) Shade ,etc.Quality table
Q.C passed garment deliver to finishing
Layout of sewing section (2nd floor): I.TM.DStair
TableQuality check table
Quality check table Exit Line-4Line-3 Line-2Line-1
4A
Input table 4B
Input table
Input table
Input table
Input rack
Input rackInput rackInput rack
Toilet
Sewing machine
Line no:01Style Name: Basic polo shirtProduction target: 120 piecesNo of machine: 39 Lock stitch: 24 Over lock: 09 Flat lock: 04 Button attaching: 01 Button holing: 01No of operator: 39No of helper: 33
Operation breakdown for Basic polo shirt
Back part and front part matching
Shoulder Joint
Shoulder Top stitch
Level Making
Placket Making
Level Tuck
Placket Match to body
Placket Joint
Placket Top stitch
Nose Tuck in placket
Collar and Cuff making
Cuff Joint
Sleeve Joint
Collar Tuck
Neck Tape joint
Placket top stitch(upper)
Placket top stitch(lower)
Placket pattern top stitch
Placket box making
Neck top stitch
Arm hole top stitch
Body hem
Side seam
Side vent tuck
Side vent top stitch
Chap tuck
Button hole
Button attaching
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table
Line no: 02
Style Name: TrouserNo of machine: 22 Lock stitch: 10 Over lock: 10 Flat lock: 02 No of operator: 22No of helper: 18
Operation breakdown for Trouser
Match front and back part
Front rise and back rise joint
Inseam
Cuff make
Cuff joint
Elastic cutting Making belt
Belt servicing
Belt joint
Attaching level
Inseam tuck
Belt top stitch
Cuff top stitch
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table
Line no: 03
Style Name: Labrea henly
No of machine: 34 Lock stitch: 14 Over lock: 08 Flat lock: 10 Button attaching: 01 Button holing: 01
No of operator: 34
No of helper: 26
Fig-29: Labrea HenleyOperation breakdown for Labrea Henly
Match back and front part
Shoulder joint
Iron body
Placket make
Placket joint
Placket lower part joint
Placket tuck
Placket top stitch (zigzag)
Placket chain stitch(other side)
Placket inner tuck
Placket box
Neck tuck
Neck joint
Neck top stitch
Rib false tuck
Sleeve and body match
Sleeve joint
Arm hole top stitch
Cuff joint
Cuff top stitchSide seam
Khara tuck
Chap tuck
Care level make
Care level tuck
Side top stitch(zigzag)
Side top stitch (chain stitch)
Side zigzag false tuck
Hanger loop tuck
Body hem
Hem zigzag stitch
Button hole mark
Button hole
Button attaching mark
Button attach
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check tableLine no: 4AStyle Name: Olga TopNo of machine: 24 Lock stitch: 09 Over lock: 11 Flat lock: 04No of operator: 24No of helper: 30
Operation breakdown for Olga Top
Marking middle point on the front part and make cross mark (X)
Tuck on the end of cross mark according to the measurement
Match back part with raglan
Joint back part and raglan Fig-30: Olga Top
Match front part and back part
Joint front and back part
Rib tuck(Neck)
Neck joint
Found middle point on back part and attach level
Side seam
Cuff making
Joint cuff with body
Fig-30: Olga Top Sewing Make bottom
Bottom mark for side seam matching
Bottom joint
Bottom top stitch
Attaching hanger loop
Hanger loop top stitch
Neck top stitch
Cuff top stitch Fig-30: QC in Olga top
Remove extra thread from cross mark
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table
Line no: 4BStyle Name: Olga BottomNo of machine: 12 Lock stitch: 04 Over lock: 06 Flat lock: 02No of operator: 12No of helper: 03Operation breakdown for Olga Bottom Match front and back part
Front and back rise joint
Inseam
Cut elastic according to the measurement
Tuck elastic
Waist belt fabric tuck with elastic
Waist belt servicing
Waist belt joint with body
Cuff making
Line no.Style1st2nd
3rd
4th5th
6th
7th
8th
1Basic Polo Shirt/100110/210120/330120/450120/570130/700130/830120/950
2Trouser/8080/16090/250100/350100/450110/560120/680140/820
3Labrea Henley/100110/210120/330130/460130/590140/730140/870150/1020
4AOlga Top/4050/9070/16070/23070/30080/38080/46090/550
4BOlga Bottom/4050/9060/15060/21060/27070/34080/42080/500
Joint cuff with body
Level attaching Fig-31: Olga Bottom
Cuff top stitch
Waist belt top stitch
Thread trimming
Sent to quality check table
Table-32: Hourly production board for 2nd floorGarment washing
Garment washing is normally done after stitching. According to fashion trend and customer demand buyers ask for garment washing. For the washing apparel buyers mention exactly what types of washing they need for the order.
The primary objects of garment washing is
1) To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing.
2) To soften the garment hand feel and improve bulkiness
3) To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment manufacturing processes. 4) To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process.
To fulfill customer demand
1) Washed clothes can be worn directly after purchasing
2) To give faded look or any other color tinted look to the garment.
3) To stabilize garment shrinkage and dimensional instability.
Fig-32: Washing Machine
Tumble drying
Tumble dryers have larger drums than washing machines, because the larger the drum, the better the efficiency of hot air flow through the machine resulting in faster drying times. Allowing fabrics plenty of room to tumble also means less creasing. The best quality machines have long lasting stainless steel drums, and provide a smooth finish so fabrics don't catch.Most machines have two heat settings, for cottons or synthetics. There are a few with three settings, with the third usually for delicates. They also have a timer or sensor to control the length of the drying cycle. During the last ten minutes or so of the cycle, the heating element is turned off and the fabrics tumble in cooling air back to ambient room temperature. This reduces the effect of static and 'fibre shock', which causes creasing. Some machines have a cool air setting which can be used to air fabrics stored away for some time.
Operating principle is based on a heated air circulation system. The air flow is conveyed through the garments, which are constantly kept in movement inside the perforated drum. The air is then sucked through filter box and finally expelled out of the machine. The air heating is carried by stainless steel steam batteries. Air temperature and treating time are managed by control panel.
Fig-33: Tumble Dryer Machine
Garments Finishing Section
Finishing is a series of processing operations applied to a textile material to improve its appearance, handle and functional properties.
Fig-34: Some Photo of Garments Finishing Section
Layout of garment finishing section:
Stair
Input table
ToiletExitWash room
Spot removing ZoneUnit- 6
Office Unit-1 Unit-2 Unit-3 Unit-4 Unit-5 Unit-6
Cartoningzone
Office
ExitExit
WestSmoke detector
First aid box North South
East
Process flow chart of garment finishing section:
Receive garments from sewing section
Thread sucking
Pressing/Ironing
Primary checking
Spot removeRepair/Alternation
Measurement checking
Getup/final checking
Repair/Alternation
Tagging
Metal detection
Remove country sticker
Folding
Poly
Assorting
Packing to box
If fail, back to re-checkPre-final
Inspection of ready to ship goods
Dispatch shipment
Object of Finishing:
To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use. To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.
To give desirable qualities to the fabric like-1. Luster 2. Drape 3. Dimensional stability 4. Crease recovery 5. Softness6. Soil repellenceWork flow in the Finishing Room:As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for reference:
Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment; Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements; Fold the garments as required by customer; Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags),etc to the garments at this stage; Insert garments into poly bags; Divide garments as per size and color (assortment); Package garments inside the cartons.
Characteristics of Well Finished Garments:Good fitting is achieved by doing the work with care, patience and practice. A well-fitted garment feels comfortable, adjusts naturally to the activities of the wearer, is becoming in line and amount of ease and consistent with current fashions.
Initial Production Check:This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection may be applied or another inspection system designed by the buyer.
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):
Ascertain portion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the percentage doesnt exceed a certain limit it will be economical to allow the defective to go through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called AQL.The most commonly used AQL is a major 2.5 and minor 4.0 . The AQL random sampling inspection is derived from the mathematical theory of probability. Some defectives are considered acceptable. AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection condition are required for expensive items like, up market or Boutiques.
Table-33: AQL normal inspection plan
Total Order Quantity
SampleQuantity1%
1.5%
2.5%
4.0%6.5%
AcRe
AcReAcReAcReAcRe
90-150
20
0
1
0
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
151-280
320112233456
281-50050
1
2
2
3
3
4
5
6
7
8
501-1200
80233456781011
1201-320012534567810111415
3201-100002005678101114152122
10001-3500031578101114152122
35001 >500101114152122
The General Rules of Spot Removing: The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is to remove. Always treat a stain before laundering. Blot gently never rub; and don't ever blot with hot water.Lipstick Stain Removing: Blot with a baby wipe or a washcloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. Blood Stain Removing: If it's fresh, blot repeatedly with cold water, an ice cube, or club soda; if it's dried, use a 3 percent hydrogen-peroxide solution.Oil Stain Removing: Fig-34: Spot removing Cover with talc or baby powder immediately and allow it to sit at least a half hour. Then brush it off, apply a stain remover (such as Spray n' Wash), and wash in the hottest water the fabric can stand. Ink Stain Removing: On cotton, apply rubbing alcohol to the spot, then wash. On polyester, spray liberally with hair spray and pat with a clean, dry cloth. Then wash.Red wine Stain Removing: Douse with salt, dunk in cold water, blot until the stain disappears, and wash as soon as possible.
Fig-34: Chemical & equipment to use for spot removing
Ironing:
Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180220 Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds.
Fig-35: Ironing
Basic Ironing Symbols:Do not iron
Cool iron (110)
Medium iron (150)
Hot iron (200)
Garment Inspection :
The inspections are done to control the quality is means by examining the products without the products any instruments. To examine the fabric, sewing, button, thread, zipper, garments measurements and so on according to specification or desired standard is called inspection. There are so many facilities for inspection in every section of garments industries. The aim of inspection is to reduce the time and cost by identifying the faults or defects in every step of garments making.
Fig-36: Garment InspectionNecessity of Inspection:
All the retailers want to buy high quality products from manufacturers, to sell the product to their customers. The quality of the garments may vary depends on the price ranges. So we need to follow various methods of inspection techniques, depends on the customers wants
Quality Check Procedure (How to check garments)
Check all garments according to proper check system. All the garments inside & outside check. Oil spot, dirty, color spot not acceptable. All children order neck extended measurement must be check. Round check the garments. Check stitch tension (looms/teight) needle cut, needle damage etc. Check shadding: sleeve+body,rib+body,back+front. Both sleeve & both shoulder & both sleeve opening must be even. Check care label & size label properly. Check the percentage of care label of grey color garments. Check sleeve join stitch,tension, needle cut etc. Check sleeve cuff tension,shade etc. Check side seam stitch. Check bottom stitch. Check main label Check placket+button,button hole,button stitch. Check embroidery,print,hole,color,design,pocket. Check side seam stitch,tension,needle cut etc. Check bottom (inside/outside) ,broken stitch. Check side slit,care label. Check collar,neck tape,label.
Fig-37: Measurement Check Fig-37: Get-up Check
Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described BelowConfirmation of Quantity:First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors packing list by counting all Pecs of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and written in the box then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.Confirmation of Accessories:Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required by the buyer.Size Spec inspection:After confirmation of accessories all pieces are checked as per size spec based on the instruction sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check the original sample and inform the buyer same time.In Side Inspection:At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect, poor stitching, and stains etc in the garment.Out Side Inspection:At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation, kniting defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc in the garments. Final Inspection:Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if any defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay. Packing:All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they are send for needle inspection.
Needle Detector Machine
Fig-38: Needle detector machineMachine checking:For machine checking NTL used 9-point system.Inside this card a 1.2mm ferrous metal sample is placed for metal checking.
Fig-38: Checking InstrumentProcess flow chart of metal free zone
Machine Cleaning
Machine Calibration (machine checked by 9-point system, every after 2 hours)
Goods Checking
For Japan CountryFor other country (1 way check)
Adult 1+4 (2 way check)
Children (4 way check)
Take action according to H & M guideline
OK body passes for foldingNot OK body keep in a fixed box
Input the data in a data bankKeep the data in a data bankMetal Free Process For Japan:
2Way & 4 Way checking system
Front side vertical Front side horizontal Back side vertical Back side horizontal
Folding:
Although folding remains largely a manual task.
Fig-39: FoldingPackaging & Cartoning After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the carton easily.Table-34: Measurement of some carton are given below: For H & MObjectLengthWidthHeight
Polo Shirt543520/40
Hanger item584040
Small Quantity292020
General582640
For BANEXObjectLengthWidthHeight
General563641
Fig-40: Cartoning
Assortment: Buyers generally place order of garments in certain assortment of color and sizes. The production of such colors and sizes is called assortment.
There are 4 types of assortment:1) Solid size and solid color (the order comprises one size & one color)2) Solid size & assorted color (the order comprises one size & different colors)3) Assortment sizes & assorted color (the order has only one color but different sizes)4) Assorted sizes & assorted color (different sizes & different colors in the order) Generally most of the order comes in assorted sizes & assorted colors.
Fig-41: AssortmentDispatch/Finished Carton Zone:
The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the finished carton zone, where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.
Fig-42: Finished Carton Zone
Chapter Six
Work Study
Work Study:
Work study is the analysis of the operations required to produce a style. Effective work study requires both methods analysis and work measurement. Methods are studied, analyzed, and the elements of the method measured in terms of time consumed.
Objectives of Work Study:
- Explain mechanization and automation relative to general- and special-purpose machines- Examine the basic components of sewing machines and work aids - discuss the effect of equipment on product quality and performance.
Work Study can be best expressed in the following manner:
1. Method Study: Record to Compare Seek best method
2. Work Measurement: Time Study Synthetics
Work Measurement Techniques are:1) Time Study2) Judgment or past experience of the engineer / production manager3) Predetermined Time systems4) Standard Data5) Operator Reporting6) Work Sampling
1.) Time StudyTime study is a systematic technique for determining the amount of time required for a qualified, well trained person, working at a normal pace to perform a specific operation.
2.) Pre-determined Motion Time Systems (PMTS)Production Standards are established for new styles before the style goes into production The basis is historical data for hundreds of replications of basic motions and elemental times that have been averaged and converted to standard times for a specific motion.
3.) Judgment Time Study may be, time consuming and costly For small orders a style may not be in production long enough for Time Study This can provide only approximate values
4.) Standard Data (Garment Synthetics)Standard data may be developed for: Operations, Components, Styles, and Used for preliminary costing and design decisions as well as cost estimating.
5.) Operator ReportingRelates to the volume completed during the time spent. There are no specified methods or output expectation. The amount of work completed in a specific time frame is often inconsistent and may be unreliable.
6.) Work SamplingIt is a work measurement method that is not concerned with how fast a unit is completed but rather which machines are used and activities pursued the job over an established period of time.
Types of Allowance:Different types of allowance are given bellow-
Relaxation Allowance Contingency Allowance Machine Delay Allowance Style Change Allowance Special AllowanceLine Capacity Study Sheet
DateBuyerStyleLine no.
25.8.14H&MKitt Trouser07
#S/LProcess NameOperators IDMachine No. of pcsTotal timeAllow- anceCapacity
1Back & front rise joint+label attach 21746Over lock052.2520%104pc/hr
2Inseam6597Over lock055.0020%50pc/hr
3Crotch point tuck11094Lock stitch050.4520%333pc/hr
4Waist Belt joint31503Over lock052.2520%104pc/hr
5Belt top stitch25551Flat lock052.5520%85pc/hr
6Leg hem joint29196Flat lock052.4020%93pc/hr
7Inseam8189Over lock054.1620%58pc/hr
8Elastic tuck13138Lock stitch051.0520%240pc/hr
9Elastic joint29637Over lock052.5020%88pc/hr
10Waist belt tuck7633Lock stitch052.5020%88pc/hr
11Waist belt tuck821Lock stitch 052.1220%113pc/hr
12Leg hem joint30633Flat lock052.4020%93pc/hr
13Belt top stitch5300Flat lock051.4520%142pc/hr
14Back & front rise joint+label attach18221Over lock053.1020%80pc/hr
A time study work sheet that we have done during our internship
Table-35: Calculation of capacity of an operator
Standard minute value (SMV) = Total minute 60 Total second No.of pieces 60 Allowance = (260) + 25 5 60 + 20% = 120 + 25 5 60 + 20% = 145 5 60 + 20% = 29 60 + 20% = 0.48 + 20% = 0.48 + 0.096 = 0.576
Capacity = 60 SMV = 60 0.576 = 104 pcs Total textile process at a glance
Fig-43: Total textile process at a glance
For cotton fabric total textile process is briefly described below:
By spinning process cotton fibre is formed into yarn. Then the yarn is sized by using different types of sizing chemicals and methods. By using sized yarn knitted fabric is made by knitting machine. Knitted grey fabric is then pre treated and then the fabric is dyed and printed as per requirement of the buyer. From the colored fabric garment goods are made through the different process. Finished garment is then sent to retail store. From the retail store consumer get their fashionable garment that they want to buy.
Chapter Seven
Merchandising& Costing
Merchandising:Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. The term merchandising means simply to buy & sell commodities for a product. Merchandising is the planning, developing & presenting product lines for identified target markets with regards to pricing, assortment, styling & timing. It is a central coordination point for the product line. The product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising.
Process flow chart of Merchandising
Receive product package form buyer
Sample development
Price negotiation
Order confirmation and receive order sheet.
Sourcing low good quality right time
Material collection and receive it in factory
Check and listing
Swart card making and approval
Pre production meeting
Daily collect daily production report and daily quality report
Arrange final inspection
Shipment
Costing: After receiving an enquiry from the buyer, the merchandiser has to do the costing for the product which is mentioned in the enquiry. Costing means to calculate the total investment for producing a product and how much profit will come from thats investment. It is most important to calculate the processing cost before starting production. Costing is the process of estimating the tentative price of a product. For knit garments costing a merchandiser needs to have clear conception of the raw materials price and CM calculation of knit garments.
Costing of a product includes different factor. They are as follow:
Yarn cost Knitting cost Dyes and chemical cost Cost of dyeing Cost of finishing Cost of cutting, sewing and accessories Cost of printing(If needed) Labor cost (Direct or indirect) Office and Administrative cost Factory cost Sales and carrying cost Other cost Profit etc.
Trims and AccessoriesTo fulfill the design objectives we need different kind of materials. Fabrics are the main material, which used for garment manufacturing. We need other materials also, which make the garments aesthetic, functional and commercially required. Usually other than fabrics these materials used for making garments are called trims and accessories.Trims:The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims. On the other hand materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc.(Interlining is used as shape forming / preserving materials.)Accessories:The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.
Fig-44: Some Trims & Accessories
Chapter Eight
Quality Assurance System
Quality Assurance System
Quality assurance
Quality assurance (QA) refers to the planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled. It is the systematic measurement, comparison with a standard, monitoring of processes and an associated feedback loop that confers error prevention. This can be contrasted with quality control, which is focused on process outputs.
Objective of quality control: Research Selection of raw material Process control Process development Product testing Specification check
Dimensions of Quality:
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM: After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.
SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC: 1) Brought good quality yarn. 2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly. 3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately. 4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month. 5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL: The list of equipments to assure quality:- 1) Inspection m/c. 2) Electronic balance 3) GSM cutter. 4) Measuring tape. 5) Scissors. 6) Indication sticker.
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE
Body & rib inspection:All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
Collar & cuff inspection:Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
QUALITY STANDARD: NTL maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by