Squam Swamp

Nantucket, Massachusetts nantucketconservation.org

INFORMATION AND TRAILS

Welcome to Squam Swamp

Welcome to the Nantucket Conservation Foundation’s Squam Swamp property. This unique 294-acre parcel was purchased by

the Foundation over several years, beginning in 1982 as a bargain sale from Robert and Molly (Backus) Sziklas. Most of the funds needed for this $1.2 million purchase price were contributed by our neighbors, the residents of Wauwinet, Squam, and Pocomo. Immediately abutting Squam Swamp to the south is the Foundation’s 210-acre Squam Farm property, which can be accessed via this trail. Squam Farm contains a diverse collection of hardwood forests, freshwater bogs, shrublands, vernal pools, and managed grasslands. The property consists of ten separate parcels that have been pieced together over twenty years through the hard work and generosity of many individuals and organizations.The Foundation acquired these lands through direct purchase, bargain sale, and as gifts from the Koch,Sangree, Sziklas, and Andrews families. Of special note is the Nantucket Land Council’s contribution of 90 acres to the Foundation after diligently working for fifteen years to clear title by purchasing partial interests, pursuing court challenges, and researching titles.Because of the generosity and foresight of all thosewho contributed towards the acquisition of both areas,over 504 contiguous acres are now protected for thebenefit of present and future generations.

2

Dense vegetation and lack of visible landmarkswithin this property make it easy to becomedisoriented and lost. Please stay on the marked trailat all times and keep your children nearby.

Be sure that you are dressed appropriately.Waterproof shoes or boots are recommended, as manyportions of the trail can be muddy. Deer or blackleggedticks (which carry Lyme Disease, Babesiosis, Ehrlichiosis, and/or other tick-borne diseases) and mosquitoes are both common on this property. Check yourself and your clothing thoroughly for ticks after visiting any of Nantucket’s natural areas. Staying on the trail and out of the nearby vegetation will minimize your exposure to both ticks and poison ivy, which is also abundant on this property.

Horses, bicycles, mountain bikes, and motorizedvehicles are prohibited, as are camping and anycommercial activity. Hunting is permitted duringdesignated seasons. Please note that there are norestrooms or other facilities on the property.

PRECAUTIONS AND REGULATIONS

3

We hope you enjoy your visit!

This brochure provides an introduction to some of theecological, geological, and historical features of theSquam Swamp property. The walking trail is marked atregular intervals with numbered posts. The numberscorrespond with the labels on the trail map and thenumbered sections of the text contained in thispublication. Each section of text describes andidentifies interesting natural resources visible in theimmediate vicinity of that particular section of trail. The interpretive trail is approximately 1.8 miles inlength, round trip. It consists of a single path thatproceeds for about 0.4 miles, and then splits to form alarge, circular loop (see map on pages 18–19). Alongthe southern portion of the loop (between trail markers#38 and #39) there is an access path leading to theFoundation’s Squam Farm property, which containsadditional walking paths traversing managedgrasslands, hardwood forests and shrublands.

4

THE TRAIL

Squam Swamp has many interestingvegetation communities largely determinedby the water content of the soil. The roots of the plants that you see here have different tolerances for moisture. Some species of trees and shrubs, such as tupelo, red maple, highbush blueberry, and sweet pepperbush grow in both well-drained upland soils and wetland soils. Others, such as shadbush and arrowwood, cannot tolerate wet soils and only occur in upland areas. You will see examples of these different habitats and how they transition from one to the other along this interpretive trail.

The oak trees growing here are indicatorsthat the soil at their roots is rarely saturatedwith water. Wetland soils contain very lowlevels of oxygen, and the root systems of uplandspecies such as oaks are not adapted to growingunder oxygen-depleted conditions. Four speciesof oaks grow in the vicinity of this trail marker:white oak, black oak, scrub oak, and dwarfchestnut oak. White oaks are named for theirpale, scaly bark. The leaves have whiteundersides and 3–9 lobes that are rounded,rather than having a distinctly pointed tip. Blackoaks have smooth, glossy, dark green leaves thatare somewhat hairy on the underside. The barkis dark brown and is separated into thick ridgesby fissures. Scrub oak is a tall shrub that occursoccasionally in the drier portions of the swamp,but is more common in upland, sandy soilswhere it forms impenetrable thickets. Thesecond word of its Latin name, Quercus ilicifolia,

5

1

2

Property Guideby Trail Marker

means “holly-like” and refers to the shape of itssmall, triangular-lobed leaves with pointed tips.Dwarf chestnut oak is a low shrub that usually grows in clumps. It has bright green leaves with3-7 rounded teeth on each margin. It also prefersdry, sandy soils, but is occasionally found in moistwoodlands such as this.

Hardwood forests are relatively rare onNantucket. Settlers who arrived in the early1600s reported that the island was covered withtrees. However, this quickly changed as the treeswere harvested for home construction, shipbuilding, and firewood. In addition, large areaswere cleared for growing crops and grazinglivestock. Due to the decline and eventualelimination of grazing in the late 1800’s, tallershrubs and trees have gradually becomeestablished in many parts of the island. Today,hardwood forests are relatively rare and limitedto certain areas, including the MasquetuckReservation in Quaise, the borders of theWindswept Cranberry Bog, Coskata Woods,Squam Farm, and here at Squam Swamp.

Several of the trees in the vicinity of thistrail marker are swamp red maples, whichare well-adapted to surviving in wetlandsoils. The roots of most plants obtain oxygendirectly from the soil. When soils becomesaturated with water, most of the oxygenbecomes displaced and is not available to theroots. Swamp red maples produce very shallow,spreading root systems in order to takeadvantage of what little oxygen is available justbelow the ground surface. This allows them tosurvive in wet soils. Also, these trees are dormantduring the winter and early spring, which istypically the wettest part of the year.

6

3

4

The bolder just off the edge of the trail is aremnant of Nantucket’s geologic past. Whenthe last glacier moved in from the northapproximately 15,000 years ago, it pushed largeboulders, small rocks, soil, and clay ahead of itand deposited them along its southernmostextent, forming a moraine. The rolling hills thatmake up the northern portion of Nantucket are the weathered remains of this glacial material.Boulders such as this are called “glacial erratics”because they differ in size, shape, and type fromrocks that are native to the area. They can befound scattered across the moraine at manylocations in the northern portion of the island.

This large depression, which is usually filledwith water during the winter and spring, isone of the many vernal pools scatteredthroughout these woods. A vernal pool is abody of fresh water that either dries up for aportion of the year, or contains water year-roundbut is free of adult fish populations. Thesehabitats are very important to many species ofwildlife, especially amphibians and reptiles suchas the spring peeper, green frog, redbacksalamander, painted turtle, and the rare spottedturtle. Vernal pools provide breeding habitat foramphibians whose eggs and larvae would likelybe eaten by fish in larger freshwater ponds. Theyalso contain diverse populations of invertebratessuch as damselflies, dragonflies, diving beetles,fairy shrimp, and water striders, all of which arean important source of food for the amphibians,reptiles, and birds that come to feed here.

Just off the trail is a low, swampy area thatprovides optimum growing conditions forSphagnum, a large genus of mosses that canhold up to twenty-five times their weight inwater. As the top portions of these plants grow,

7

5

6

7

the underlying layers become deprived ofsunlight and die. Highly acidic conditions prevent this material from completely decaying. It builds up and forms extensive layers of organic material called peat. Most plants cannot tolerate such high concentrations of acid, although a fewspecies have developed special adaptations thatallow them to survive here. Cinnamon fern andswamp azalea are two examples of such species.

Areas of higher elevation like this are foundthroughout Squam Swamp. The plants inclose proximity to this trail marker are not able to survive in wet soils such as those foundelsewhere in the swamp. For example, the largeblack oak tree just off the trail is an example of acommon upland tree species. The shape of thisparticular tree is very different from those thatoccur within the denser forest. It was probablythe only tree at this site when it was a sapling,which enabled it to produce large, horizontallyspreading branches as it grew with very littlecompetition for sunlight. Other upland shrubs,trees, and vines in the immediate vicinity includearrowwood, scrub oak, dwarf chestnut oak,bayberry, and fox grape.

This is one of many portions of SquamSwamp that provides ideal habitat forspotted turtles. Named for their yellow polka-dotted shells, these 8-10 inch long reptiles are a relatively rare species in Massachusetts. Their rarity is attributed to the degradation and loss of wetlands, road mortality, collection for the pet trade, and habitat fragmentation. Spotted turtles are most frequently seen when adults aresearching for mates in late spring and earlysummer. After mating, females will excavate“nests” (shallow holes) in upland areas adjacentto wetlands, lay one to five eggs, and then cover

8

8

9

them up with soil. The eggs hatch in late summerand the hatchlings, which are about the size of aquarter, will either disperse or over-winter in thenest. Adults hibernate in muddy wetland bottomsduring the winter, and may also become inactiveduring the hottest, driest periods of the summer.Spotted turtles feed on a variety of foods,including small frogs, insects, spiders, small fish,and vegetation.

The important role that soil moisture playsin determining the distribution of plantsfound within the swamp is particularlyvisible at this location. This part of the trail issituated along the boundary between wetlandand upland vegetation communities. The bog onthe low side of the trail has wet soils year-round,while the upland slope contains considerably drier, well-drained soils. The scrub oaks and blackoaks on the upland side of the trail would not beable to survive in the bog that is less than 100feet from their present location.

The size of the swamp red maple trees nearthis trail marker attest to their age. Swampred maples can live for up to a century and reachheights of 90 to 100 feet. They grow very rapidlyduring the first 20 to 30 years, after which theirgrowth rate slows. The large lumps on the treetrunks that contribute to their gnarly appearanceare called burls. When a fungus attacks the trunkor branch, the tree produces growths such asthese in an effort to isolate the wound. Despitetheir appearance, burls are generally not harmfulto the tree.

During most of the year, this stream bedcontains one of the few flowing streams onNantucket. Most of the island’s soils are very sandy and porous, and rainwater usually soaks

9

10

11

12

into the ground immediately. Here in the northeastern portion of the island, the soils often contain impervious clay layers and much of the rainfall is prevented from entering the water table. The Sphagnum and other overlaying organic materials here in Squam Swamp absorb this water and slowly release it, where it collects and flows into slight valley-like depressions such as this one.

The water in this stream is usually tan todark reddish-brown in color, due todecaying vegetation such as dead aquaticplants, fallen leaves, and branches that liewithin the stream and along its margins. Asthis matter decomposes, it releases tannins –darkly-colored organic compounds that are theby-products of plant metabolism and decay. Thissame process gives tea its characteristic browncolor as the tea leaves steep in water.

You may notice that the tupelo trees at thislocation are relatively uniform in trunkdiameter and height. This grove likely became established following cessation of farming orgrazing activities. Once the land was no longermaintained, seeds from nearby established treesgerminated and began to grow quickly, competing for sunlight and nutrients as they formed the tight canopy of uniform height present today. As the trees in this section of the swamp become older, some will die off from fungal infections, insect infestations, or be blown over by strong winds, creating openings in the canopy. Sunlight will be able to reach the forest floor at these sites, triggering the germination and growth of new trees to replace those that were lost. Due to this cycle of death and germination, the trees that make up a more mature forest usually vary in age and are therefore

10

13

14

not uniform in size like the grove present at this location.

At trail marker #14, the trail splits to form a large circular route that is approximately 1 mile in length (see map on pages 18–19). The trail can be walked in either direction, but proceed straight (instead of bearing to the left) to follow the numbered trail markers in their correct numeric sequence.

The tall tree above you is a mockernuthickory. Primarily a southeastern species, itoccurs in Massachusetts at the northern limit ofits range. In the south, it is the most commonhickory species and is harvested commercially.Because the wood is very strong and shockresistant, it is often manufactured into gymnasticequipment, ladder rungs, poles, and toolhandles. The sawdust and wood chips are alsoutilized in the meat smoking industry.

Many of the vines growing up the nearbytrees are poison ivy, a common plant here inSquam Swamp. Poison ivy is a very adaptablespecies that can grow as a free standing shrub,a climbing woody vine, or a low ground cover in virtually any setting on Nantucket. Here in theforest, its characteristic three leaves tend to belarger than usual and very dark green – anadaption that allows the plant to maximize theamount of sunlight it collects in shadyenvironments. Contrary to popular belief, youcannot get a rash from poison ivy unless youcome in direct contact with the plant’s oils –usually by touching the leaves, stems, or roots. Ifthe oil is vaporized when the plant is beingburned, it can enter the throat and lungs andcause a very serious medical condition. Poison ivyoil can be removed from the skin by thoroughly

11

14

16

15

washing with strong soap and waterimmediately after contact. However, the bestway to avoid the unpleasant effects of contactwith this plant is to heed the old saying, “leavesof three, let them be!”

If you look carefully at the trunks andbranches of nearby trees, you will see acolorful assortment of lichens. Theseorganisms, as well as some species of algae andmosses, are epiphytes that live attached to thebark of dead and living wood. They manufacturetheir own food by photosynthesis — theproduction of sugar and oxygen from carbondioxide and water in the presence of sunlight.While lichens emit a weak acid that helps breakdown organic matter, there is no evidence thatthey cause harm to healthy, living trees. Lichensare extremely sensitive to pollution and aretherefore rare in urban and suburban settings.Their abundance on Nantucket attests to theisland’s relatively pure air and high humidity.

Lichens, such as the ones growing on thesesassafras trees, are an interesting naturalphenomenon because they are actually anassociation of two organisms. Tiny greenalgae cells intertwine with microscopic fungalfilaments to produce an entirely new form. Eachshade of green is likely a distinct “species.” Asobserved here, there is a great deal of variationin both color and texture – some have distinct raised, wavy edges while others are flat andappear to be green discolorations on the barkitself.

Although surrounded almost entirely bywetlands, this hilltop is approximately 32feet above sea level and represents one ofthe higher elevations in Squam Swamp. It is

12

17

18

19

possibly the weathered remains of a large pile ofglacial debris left behind as the most recent icesheet melted and slowly retreated northapproximately 12,000 years ago. The northernportion of Nantucket contains many such hilltops(kames) and valleys (kettles). In contrast, thesouthern portion of the island is relatively flatand consists of finer, sandy sediments laid downin an “outwash plain” by glacial meltwatersflowing to the sea.

You may have noticed that the trees here inSquam Swamp often have mosses growingon their trunks, especially near the base.Mosses belong to a group of plants known asbryophytes, which also includes liverworts andhornworts. They have no roots or vascularsystem, which makes them highly dependent onwater for their survival. Because of this, mostspecies can only grow in very moist, shadylocations. Their ability to absorb and retainmoisture makes them a very important part ofthe plant communities here at Squam Swamp.Although bryophytes are considered to berelatively primitive plant forms, they are one ofthe largest groups of plants in the world, withover 25,000 known species.

Fallen swamp red maple trees such as theseare common in forested wetlands. Thisspecies forms extremely shallow root systems inresponse to the scarcity of oxygen in wetlandsoils. A disadvantage to shallow roots is that theyoften cannot support the tree as it grows tallerand becomes exposed to the frequent highwinds experienced on Nantucket. However,fallen swamp red maple trees are often able to survive if even a small portion of their rootsystem remains in the ground. The cratersformed when the tree becomes uprooted

13

21

20

gradually fill with soil, grasses, ferns, mosses,and wetland shrubs. The dead portions of thetree will slowly rot, aided by fungi that specializein decomposing dead wood.

This vernal pool (which may be dry duringthe summer months) is one of many areas inSquam Swamp that provides habitat forspring peepers. These tiny tree frogs announcethe impending arrival of spring each year withtheir loud mating chorus. Peepers (also known aspinkletinks) are only an inch or so long, but theloud breeding calls of the male frogs can be heardfrom up to a quarter of a mile away. The femaleslay up to 800 eggs per season in clusters attachedto aquatic vegetation in vernal pools and otherwetlands. The eggs develop rapidly, hatchingwithin 7-10 days into tadpoles less than a quarterinch long, which then grow to adult size over thenext 5-8 weeks. Adult peepers are terrestrial andare equipped with adhesive toe pads that enablethem to climb into the treetops of swamps andforested wetlands during the summer months.Therefore, they are not frequently encounteredoutside of the breeding season.

These tall shrubs with the reddish-brown,somewhat shaggy bark are highbushblueberry bushes – a relatively commonspecies in Squam Swamp. Several species ofblueberries occur on Nantucket. While mostgrow low to the ground in sunny, uplandlocations, highbush blueberry occurs primarily inmoist environments such as swamps, bogs, pondshores, and damp woodlands and can growupwards to 12 feet tall. Highbush blueberry is thenative species from which most commercialblueberry cultivars originated. Blueberries arecharacterized by having elliptical, short-stalkedleaves and zigzagged stems. They bear small,

14

22

23

white to pale pink bell-shaped flowers in latespring. The berries, which appear in late summer, are enjoyed by many species of wildlife as well ashumans.

This tall shrub with the horizontally-linedsilver bark is a particularly large example ofbayberry – a very common species found inupland and coastal habitats island-wide.Bayberry has long been known for its medicinalqualities, which were useful to the NativeAmericans. The bark and roots were either ground into a powder or made into an astringent used to treat sores, boils, and various digestive disorders. The leaves, stems, berries, and roots of the plant contain spicy, aromatic oil. The small berries were widely collected by the early settlers, who boiled them to melt off their waxy coating and make bayberry candles. This undertaking was very labor intensive, as it takes about 100 pounds of berries to produce a mere 10 pounds of candle wax.

The woods along the down slope portion ofthe trail at this location exemplify what islocally referred to as a “hidden forest.” This type of habitat occurs in the northeast portion of the island within poorly-drained, kettlehole depressions that were left behind by the last glacial advance. These low elevation patches of forest are somewhat obscured when viewed from a distance because the canopy of the trees may be at the same level as the surrounding vegetation growing upslope of the kettlehole. Thus, the trees at these sites can become quite tall before they are impacted by the constant wind and salt spray that occurs on Nantucket.

15

25

24

Several of the surrounding trees at this sitesupport large, thick fox grape vines. Theseplants are rooted in the forest floor and run aconsiderable distance up the trunks to reach thecanopy. Grape vines are more commonly foundovergrowing shrubs and shorter trees becausethey prefer full sunlight. However, they are alsoable to survive in the forest under low lightconditions by adopting the growth habit seen. Once a well-established grape vine reaches the canopy, it can do considerable damage tothe tree that supports it by overgrowing and outshading the leaves and weighing down thebranches. Another common species here inSquam Swamp that often utilizes the samegrowth strategy is poison ivy.

The lack of substantial shrub cover in theunderstory at this site is an indication thatvery little light reaches the forest floorduring the growing season. The large beech,tupelo, and sassafras trees here have almostcompletely closed the canopy. Further limitingthe germination and establishment of grassesand wildflowers is the dense layer of rootsradiating from mature nearby trees andaccumulated leaf litter. The understory hereconsists primarily of tree saplings that are able tosurvive and grow in low light conditions byspreading their branches laterally to maximizesunlight absorption. These conditions areindicative of what is called a climax communityin this type of forest, where the assemblage ofspecies will maintain itself in a “steady state”over time, as long as the environmentalconditions remain the same.

This site supports a grove of large, matureAmerican beech trees, identified by theirvery smooth, pale gray bark and toothed,

16

26

27

28

elliptical leaves. This species is characterized byslow rates of growth. The sizes of theseparticular specimens attest to their age, believedto be well over 100 years. Beech trees produceboth “male” and “female” flowers on the sametree. Wind-blown pollen from the male flowers istransferred to the female flowers, whicheventually develop into brown, triangular-shapedbeechnuts.

A common tree found in Nantucket’shardwood forests is tupelo, also known asblack gum. The slender trees in the immediatevicinity are tupelo trees – they can be identifiedby their gray, furrowed bark, very straight trunks, and horizontally layered, zigzagged branches.Many of the trees here bear the scars of a fungalor insect infestation at the sites where the lowerbranches were attached. In New England, tupelooccurs at the northern limit of its range andreaches only 20-50 feet in height, but furthersouth it can grow up to 100 feet tall. OnMartha’s Vineyard, this species is referred to asthe beetle-bung tree, because it has extremelyheavy, tough wood that was made into mallets(or beetles) used to pound wooden stoppers (orbungs) into whale oil casks.

This is a very large scrub oak – a nativespecies that usually grows as a tall shrub,but occasionally reaches tree size. One of themost common woody plant species onNantucket, scrub oak is extremely tough andresilient. In other areas of the island, particularlyin the Middle Moors and along the southeasternshoreline, it has overgrown and out-shaded raregrassland and heathland plant communities thatwere created and maintained by sheep grazingduring the 1800s. Management efforts such as brushcutting and disc harrowing are currently

17

30

29

Squam SwampInterpretive Trail

being used to keep scrub oak and other species of tall shrubs in check. Scrub oak is an upland plantthat cannot survive in wetland soils and itsoccurrence here in Squam Swamp is limited todry, higher elevations.

This hilltop, at approximately 54 feet abovesea level, represents the highest elevation inSquam Swamp. As exemplified by the swampred maple tree growing here, this species can befound growing in a wide range of soil moistureconditions — from flooded Sphagnum bogs todry, upland sites like this. Swamp red maple owesits name to the brilliant color of its leaves inautumn. The red and orange pigments responsiblefor the display are always present in the leaves.However, during the spring and summer, they aremasked by chlorophyll, a green pigment thatenables plants to produce sugar and oxygen from water and carbon dioxide in the presence ofsunlight. This process of photosynthesis allowsleaves to manufacture sugars during the growingseason, which are then transported and stored inthe root system to nourish the tree during winterwhen it is leafless. In response to decreasingsunlight and declining temperatures in latesummer, the leaves form a corky barrier at thebase of their stems. The chlorophyll remaining inthe leaves breaks down, revealing the vibrant redand orange colors associated with this species inautumn.

Black cherry trees like those in the vicinityof this marker are common in tall shrubthickets and young forests such as this. Theycan be identified by their rough, dark outer barkmarked with short, horizontal lines. On oldertrees, the bark is often cracked, exposing lighter,reddish-brown interior bark. This species bearsclusters of tiny white flowers on narrow stalks in

20

31

32

early spring, followed by small, juicy, reddish-black fruits in late summer that are a favorite ofbirds. The leaves, twigs and seeds all containhydrocyanic acid, which gives off a bitter odorwhen these parts of the tree are crushed andmakes the foliage poisonous to livestock.However, eastern tent caterpillars favor blackcherry and other species in the Prunus genus,often causing widespread defoliation.

You will notice that this area contains fewermature trees and more shrubs, grasses andwildflowers than in other portions ofSquam Swamp. This indicates that the siterecently supported a more open, grassy habitatthat was probably used for some type ofagriculture. It is now in the process of becomingovergrown by taller, woody vegetation, but thegrassland species still persist in the understory.One of the species of tall shrubs occurring alongthis portion of the trail is groundsel, which ismore commonly observed along the edges ofdunes, salt marshes, and inlets. On Nantucket, itis also found growing at inland locations such as this because the frequent salt spray and sandysoils that occur island-wide are very similar tocoastal habitats. Groundsel produces numerousbristly, off-white flower heads in late Septemberthat persist into the winter.

This tall shrub with multiple branches andround, coarse-toothed leaves borne onopposite sides of the stem is northernarrowwood. This common shrub is verynoticeable in late spring, when it producesnumerous creamy white flowers on 3-inch wide,umbrella-like clusters. The fruits are small, blue-black berries that are not particularly palatable to humans, but provide a very important source of food for many species of songbirds passing

21

33

34

through Nantucket and other coastal locations in New England during early autumn migration.

Vegetation growing along this incline consistsof mostly upland species not found in thesurrounding swamp. The loosely-spreading,multi-stemmed shrub with the finely-toothed,bright green leaves at this site is beaked hazelnut.Like its close relative, the cultivated hazelnut, thisspecies produces edible fruits eaten by squirrels,woodpeckers and blue jays. The nuts ripen in falland are enclosed within a very hard shell, coveredby a leafy sac with stiff hairs. Although difficult to extract, the nuts within are sweet and werecommonly eaten by Native Americans and the early settlers of Nantucket.

This site is representative of many portionsof the forest at Squam Swamp in that thereare several distinct layers of vegetation. Theolder trees and tall saplings form a dense canopythat limits the amount of light reaching theforest floor during the growing season. Belowthe tree canopy, forming a second vertical layer,are tall shrubs adapted to growing in shadyconditions. These include beaked hazelnut, sweetpepperbush, swamp azalea, and dangleberry.Below the tall shrubs is a third layer comprised ofwildflowers, mosses, shrub saplings, and vines. This vertical stratification of vegetation influencesthe types of songbirds that nest and feed in theforest. Different species of birds partition the same habitat by using different levels, thus allowing several species to occur in relatively close proximity. Birds known to nest in the forest at Squam Swamp include the red-tailed hawk, black-capped chickadee, yellow warbler, gray catbird, and great-crested flycatcher.

22

35

36

The damp soils on the forest floor in SquamSwamp support an abundance of ferns,including New York fern, sensitive fern, chainfern, and cinnamon fern. Ferns were among theearliest plant forms to appear on earth. Theybelong to a group of flowerless plants that produce spores (reproductive bodies) in tiny sacs on the underside of the large leaf, or frond. In spring, the leaves emerge as curled structures reminiscent of the carved upper neck of a violin or fiddle (hence the name “fiddlehead”) that gradually unfurl to become bright green fronds during the summer. In autumn, the fronds turn russet and wither, but often remain visible on the forest floor through the winter.

It is possible that many of the Americanbeech trees here in Squam Swamp,including this large example, were oncesubjected to a timber harvesting practicecalled pollarding. This involved removing themain portion of the trunk several feet above theground, which triggers the tree to re-sprout andgrow multiple new trunks from the site of thecut. Trees were often pollarded or coppiced (cutat the base of the trunk at ground level) so thatthe timber could be harvested without the needto replant. Most of Nantucket’s forests have beensubjected to intensive past land use, includingtimber harvesting, cultivation of agriculturalcrops, and livestock grazing.

If you are following the trail markers in numeric order, the Squam Swamp interpretive trail continues along the path indicated by the post with the left pointing directional arrow approximately 30 feet ahead of trail marker #38. The trail that branches off to the right of the directional arrow will take you to the Foundation’s Squam Farm property.

23

38

37

38

Squam Farm can also be accessed by taking the first left turn off Quident Road (look for theboulder marked “Squidnet Way”). Follow thedirt road past the Foundation’s maroon logopost to a fenced parking area on the right andproceed on foot through the gate.

The woods here at Squam Swamp containseveral large American holly trees. Holly isnot particularly common on Nantucketbecause it is at the northern limit of itsrange. Hollies bear tiny, cream-colored “male”and “female” flowers on separate trees. Thecharacteristic red berries of this species are onlyproduced by female trees when there is a maletree in close proximity to cross-pollinate. Most ofthe hollies in Squam Swamp do not bear fruitbecause they are isolated from each other. Theyprobably occur here as a result of seeds beingingested by birds and other wildlife elsewhere onthe island and then digested and dropped asthese animals wandered in search of additionalfood sources.

The surface of the Sphagnum bog adjacent tothe trail marker (which may be floodedduring the winter and spring) is not smooth,but quite irregular. These variations are the resultof many different factors such as underlyingtopography, differences in the rate of Sphagnum growth and decay, and freeze/thaw cycles. Theraised mounds provide suitable habitat for fernsand wetland shrubs such as swamp azalea andhighbush blueberry. The accumulation of decaying plant material surrounding the living plants further contributes to the formations of higher elevations in the bog.

The thicket of tall shrubs along this sectionof the trail consists almost exclusively of

24

39

40

41

one species – sweet pepperbush, orsummer-sweet. This native plant is common infreshwater wetland margins and damp woodson the island. Sweet pepperbush tends to formdense colonies such as this because it spreadslaterally via suckering from the roots near thebase of the stems. During late July and August, itproduces white to pale pink bottle-brush shapedblossoms with a spicy fragrance that is attractiveto butterflies and other nectar-feeding insects. The vegetation in this small clearing isdifferent from the surrounding forest. Theshrubs and trees in the immediate vicinityinclude white oak, bayberry, greenbrier,scrub oak, and huckleberry. All of thesespecies are upland plants that grow best in drysoils such as those found on this little section ofhigher elevation in the swamp. The lack ofmature trees and vegetation cover suggests thatthis site was probably disturbed by either naturalor human causes during the recent past.

The large tree to the right of the trailmarker with the reddish-brown, deeplyfurrowed bark is sassafras – a common butinteresting species. One of the unique featuresof sassafras is that produces polymorphic(meaning “many forms”) leaves, with three ormore distinctly different shapes occurring on thesame tree. The most common are the singlelobed, mitten-shaped, and tri-lobed, butupwards to seven lobes have been known tooccur. A member of the laurel family, sassafrashas been used for many medicinal, cosmetic, and culinary purposes. The roots, bark, and leaves allcontain an aromatic, spicy oil. Native Americansmade infusions from parts of the plant to treatsyphilis, colds, parasitic worms, measles, andfever. They also made tea from the bark of the

25

42

43

roots to flavor foods and beverages, a practiceadopted by European settlers when theydeveloped root beer. The leaves are still driedand ground into a powder to form filé, acondiment and soup thickener used in Cajuncooking.

The decaying wood stumps at this site arethe remnants of two trees that once grewside by side. The tree on the left was a swampred maple; the tree on the right was a tupelo.While alive, their tree trunks were so closetogether that they actually pressed into and grewaround each other. As a result of the pressureand friction of the trunks rubbing against oneanother in the wind, both trees suffered lethaldamage to their trunk bark and internal vascularsystems. Dead wood such as this is an extremelyimportant part of the forest ecosystem. It storesand provides a source of water, energy, carbon,and nutrients. It also supports numerous speciesof insects, fungi, and microorganisms that aid inbreaking down wood into rich hummus, whichthen serves as a seed bed for tree saplings andother plant species.

Large holly trees such as this one areprobably very old. The red holly berry isbotanically known as a drupe – a fleshy fruit thatcontains a seed encased in a stone-like covering.Under favorable conditions, it takes up to threeyears for this casing to break down enough forthe seed to germinate. Once the seedling hassprouted, it is slow growing, but very long-lived. Hollies are valuable from an ecological point of view. The fruit is eaten by over 20 species of songbirds and the dense, evergreen foliage provides important shelter for wildlife year-round.

26

44

45

This large shrub with the thin, multipletrunks is swamp azalea – a common, nativewetland species closely related to therhododendron. Swamp azaleas bear fragrant,vase-shaped, white to pink flowers from Junethrough August. Both the flowers and the glossygreen, oval leaves are poisonous if ingested byhumans or animals. This species is a member ofthe heath, or Ericaceae plant family. This largegroup of woody shrubs thrives in acidic, nutrientpoor soils. There are many other representativesof this family on Nantucket, includinghuckleberry, several species of blueberry,cranberry, sheep laurel, and wintergreen. Heathspecies maximize absorption of soil nutrients bymaintaining symbiotic relationships withbeneficial root fungi. Therefore, they are able togrow under soil conditions unsuitable for manyother plants.

This large tree with the gray, furrowed barkis one of several mockernut hickory treesfound in Squam Swamp. Mockernut hickory, aspecies in the walnut family, is uncommon onNantucket. The leaves are 8-12 inches long andare composed of 7-9 narrow leaflets with hairyundersides and finely toothed margins. Thesetrees get their name from the brown, deeplygrooved fruits that they produce in late summer,which may be visible on the ground at the baseof the tree. The actual nut, hidden inside theouter husk, is sweet to eat but difficult to extractand is an important source of food for wildlifesuch as gray squirrels and white-footed deermice.

This is one of many locations in SquamSwamp where fox grapes occur. Thesewoody, deciduous vines grow over low shrubsand climb up tree trunks to a height of 30 feet

27

46

47

48

or more. Native to eastern North America, thefox grape readily hybridizes with other grapespecies and was used in the development ofseveral horticultural varieties, most importantlythe Concord grape. The small, inconspicuous flowers are produced in clusters during the latespring and ripen in early September to maturegrapes varying from red to dark purple.

The prickly vine climbing over the shrubs atthis site is greenbrier, a native but ratherinvasive member of the lily family. Greenbrierattaches itself to the bark and branches ofnearby shrubs and trees with curling tendrils andproduces vines that can grow up to 20 feet long.It is extremely difficult to eradicate onceestablished, since it spreads via undergroundrhizomes that can persist in the soil for yearsafter the above-ground portion of the plant iskilled. Although it can be problematic to humanswhen it grows in landscaped situations, it is verypalatable to deer and rabbits, and its blue-blackberries are a source of food for songbirds.

The process of forest regeneration isparticularly visible here in this smallclearing. The fallen portion of this large beechtree opened up the canopy and allowed sunlightto reach the forest floor. In response, severalbeech saplings are now taking advantage of theincreased sunlight and growing towards theupper canopy. The first trees to attain the heightof their surrounding neighbors will quickly fill inthis opening by laterally spreading theirbranches, thus once again limiting the amountof sunlight that can reach the forest floor.

Vernal pools such as this provide habitat fora host of small, inconspicuous aquaticinvertebrates. These species depend upon sites

28

49

50

51

that contain water during the winter and spring,and dry up during the rest of the year in order tocomplete their life cycles. The fairy shrimp is acommon inhabitant of Nantucket’s vernal pools.This freshwater crustacean is about 1 inch longand feeds by filtering algae and microorganismsfrom the water. Fairy shrimp produce severalbroods of eggs over the course of the season,which must experience a period of drying out inorder to be viable. To facilitate their survival during such periods of desiccation, the eggs arecontained in a drought and temperature-resistantcyst. Once the vernal pool becomes flooded again, the re-submerged eggs will hatch and quickly develop into larvae, which in turn mature into adults capable of reproducing and repeating the life cycle.

The large American beech tree with thefallen trunk near this trail marker is typicalof the eventual fate of many of the oldertrees here in Squam Swamp. Once a treeexceeds the height of the surroundingvegetation, it becomes more exposed toNantucket’s high winds and more susceptible tolightning strikes. Fungal or insect infestations canalso weaken the trunk and branches, making thetree more susceptible to wind, ice, or heavysnow damage. These downed branches andtrunks will slowly decompose with the assistanceof fungi, insects, and soil microorganisms tobecome part of the soil hummus. They alsoprovide important shelter sites for smallerorganisms such as mice, frogs, salamanders, andsnakes.

During the early spring, the forest floor atthis and many other locations produces acarpet of small, delicate wildflowers such asCanada mayflower, wood anemone, star

29

52

53

flower, and trailing arbutus. These “springephemerals” are among the first flowers to bloomat the end of the winter. They have very short lifecycles that enable them to take advantage ofincreased sunlight reaching the forest floor beforethe trees and shrubs leaf out. These plants are allless than six inches tall, and they quickly becomeout-shaded at the end of their bloom period bythe taller ferns, summer and fall blooming asters,and goldenrods that dominate the forest floorlater in the growing season.

The tree with the smooth, mottled graybark to the left of this marker is shadbush, arelatively common member of the rose family. There are several closely-related speciesof tree shadbushes in New England that aredifficult to distinguish, as all are characterized byhaving simple oval leaves bordered by fine teeth,clusters of delicate white flowers, and small,sweet, reddish-purple berries. The commonname is derived from the fact that the tree’sprofuse white blooms, which carpet the island’swoodlands and shrub thickets in the late spring,are produced at roughly the same time as therun of the shad, a native ocean-dwelling fish thatreturns to its New England spawning grounds inthe spring. Other common names for this speciesinclude Juneberry, serviceberry, and sugar plum.

If you are following the trail markers intheir correct numeric sequence, you willbe re-joining the main path at trailmarker #14, about 100 feet ahead of trailmarker #54 (see map on pages 18-19). You can then follow the trail markers in descending order back to the trail head and parking lot off theWauwinet Road, located approximately 0.4miles from here.

30

54

54

14

31

Cinnamon Fern(Osmundastrum cinnamomeum)Cinnamon fern is an abundant species inmoist forests and along wetland edges. Inearly spring, the coiled stems emerge to formcharacteristic “fiddleheads” that are coveredwith pale cinnamon-colored fuzz. Maturecinnamon fern leaves are poisonous.

Canada Mayflower(Maianthemum canadense)This species is one of Nantucket’s springephemerals – small, delicate wildflowers thatare the first to bloom at the end of thewinter. They have very short life cycles thatenable them to utilize the increased sunlightthat reaches the forest floor before theoverstory trees and shrubs leaf out.

Fox Grape(Vitis labrusca)Fox grape is widespread in many of theisland’s vegetation communities. However,the vines found in moist habitats such asSquam Swamp seem to produce the bestfruit, which ripens into purple, green, or redclusters in early September.

Poison Ivy(Toxicodendron radicans)Poison ivy can grow as a climbing vine, as acreeping ground cover, or as dense shrub.All parts of this plant, including the roots, contain urushiol – an oil that binds to human skin and causes an allergic reaction in most people, including an itchy rash and fluid-filled blisters.

Sweet Pepperbush(Clethra alnifolia)Sweet Pepperbush is a common wetlandshrub with oval, glossy green leaves andwhite or light pink flowers that grow in araceme, or upright spike. Hummingbirds,bees, and butterflies love the flowers, whichbloom at the end of July and have a sweetjasmine-like scent.

PLANTS AND ANIMALSFOUND ATSQUAM SWAMP SPECIES / DESCRIPTION

32

American Beech(Fagus grandifolia)This species is relatively common in thewooded areas of Squam Swamp and can beeasily identified by its saw-toothed leavesand smooth, pale gray bark. Some of thebeech trees at Squam Swamp are believedto be well over one hundred years old.

Eastern White Oak(Quercus alba)White oaks are so named for their pale,scaly bark. Their green leaves have whiteundersides and 3-9 lobes that are rounded,rather than having a distinctly pointed tip.White oak prefers drier, more upland soils,so it tends to occur in the higher elevationson the property.

Black Oak(Quercus velutina)Black oak is a common species found indrier habitats at Squam Swamp. The bark isdark brown and separated into thick ridgesby deep fissures. The smooth, glossy, darkgreen leaves are somewhat hairy on theunderside.

Mockernut Hickory(Carya tomentosa)Mockernut hickory is a more southernspecies that occurs in Massachusetts at thenorthern end of its range. This member ofthe walnut family gets its name from thebrown, deeply grooved fruits it produces inlate summer, which are favored by squirrels,mice, and deer.

Red Maple(Acer rubrum)Red maple trees are often found within ornear swamps and other freshwater wetlands,so they are sometimes referred to as swampred maples. Their common name is derivedfrom the red buds produced in thespringtime and their brilliant red foliage inthe fall.

PLANTS AND ANIMALSFOUND ATSQUAM SWAMP SPECIES / DESCRIPTION

33

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)Sassafras trees bear “polymorphic” (many-formed) leaves. There are three common shapes that can usually all be found on the same tree – single lobed, mitten-shaped, and tri-lobed. All parts of the tree contain aromatic, spicy oil that has many medicinal and culinary uses.

Fairy Shrimp(Eubranchipus sp.)These freshwater crustaceans have specialadaptations that enable them to survivein vernal pools – small, shallow bodies ofwater that dry up for a portion of the year.They are about 1 inch long and feed byfiltering algae, detritus, and microorganismsfrom the water.

Common Green Darner(Anax junius)This is one of many species of dragonfliesthat can be found in and around wetlandson Nantucket. Dragonflies are characterizedby having large eyes, brightly colored bodyparts, and broad wings held straight outfrom their bodies. The nymph stages ofthese insects are aquatic.

Redback Salamander(Plethodon cinereus)Redback salamanders inhabit moistwoodlands across eastern North America,where they can be found under leaf litterand logs. These common amphibians comein two color phases: “redback” (gray bodywith a reddish stripe down the back) and“leadback” (lacking the red stripe).

Spring Peeper(Pseudacris crucifer)A spring peeper breeding chorus is a familiar and welcome sound on rainy nights in the early spring on Nantucket. These commonbut secretive tree frogs are easily recognizable by their small size and the brown cross on their back – hence thename “crucifer,” meaning cross-bearer.

PLANTS AND ANIMALSFOUND ATSQUAM SWAMP SPECIES / DESCRIPTION

34

Spotted Turtle(Clemmys guttata)This semi-aquatic, freshwater turtle occurs invernal pools, bogs, freshwater swamps, andsmall ponds. The upper shell (or carapace)has a distinctive yellow polka-dot spottingpattern that is believed to mimic dappledsunlight and aid in protective coloration.

Gray Catbird(Dumetella carolinensis)The gray catbird is a common passerinespecies found in dense shrublands and forestedges. It is so named because its distinctivecall resembles the mew of a cat. The genusname for this species, Dumetella, means“small thicket” and is reflective of thecatbirds’ habitat preference.

Black-capped Chickadee(Poecile atricapilla)This common songbird is easily recognizedbecause of its distinctive body shape andblack, gray, buff and white color pattern.Chickadees are inquisitive birds that oftentravel in flocks. Squam Swamp providesideal habitat because they prefer sites withdense trees and shrubs.

White-footed Deer Mouse(Peromyscus leucopus)The white-footed deer mouse is the mostabundant rodent species found in forestedhabitats of the eastern United States. Apreferred prey item of snakes and manybirds of prey, they are known to play animportant role in the life cycle of ticks thatcause Lyme disease.

White-tailed Deer(Odocoileus virginianus)This common and widespread species is anadaptable browser that feeds on grasses,wildflowers, leaves, twigs, shoots, acorns,berries, and seeds. Recent increases inNantucket’s deer population have becomeproblematic because deer often carry ticksinto yards and other populated areas.

PLANTS AND ANIMALSFOUND ATSQUAM SWAMP SPECIES / DESCRIPTION

35

ABOUT THE FOUNDATION

PLEASE JOIN US

FOLLOW US

P.O. BOX 13 118 CLIFF ROAD NANTUCKET, MA 02554–0013 (508) 228–2884

We hope you enjoyed yourvisit to Squam Swamp!

This interpretive project was funded by a generousgrant from the Margaret T. Morris Foundation.

Text by Karen C. Beattie, NCF Science and Stewardship DepartmentAll illustrations (except maps) © Gordon Morrison 2003

The Nantucket Conservation Foundation is an island nonprofit land trust that is supported by annual

membership contributions. Since its establishment in 1963, it has permanently protected approximately 9,006

acres of conservation properties on Nantucket.

Although the Foundation works closely with government agencies, it is totally dependent on

voluntary contributions.

If you are not already a member, please join us!All contributions to the Nantucket Conservation

Foundation are tax deductible. For more information about the Nantucket Conservation Foundation visit us at

118 Cliff Road or visit our website at: www.nantucketconservation.org

@ackconservation

nantucketconservation.org