Interlining

Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one

kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.

To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of

fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called

interlining.

Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,

polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its

properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish.

PURPOSE AND USE

These aims can be separated into three separate groups.

（1）TO MAKE Sewing Easier and To Increase Production

●Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines the material must

be in perfect shape before sewing so that the machine operator does not

have to try to reshape the piece before or during the sewing time.If.

before sewing ,interlining is fused onto the material,it keeps it shape,

therefore saving time and labour.

（2）Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance

●The use of interlining helps the garment material 's appearance

while at the same time retaining the garments shape.

With the development of interlinings and better Fusing press

machines, the permanent fusing process was Developed.

With this process, garments keep their shape no matter how

often they are worn or washed

（3）Making a Functional, Lasting ,Easy to Wear Product

Using the Permanent press technique, everyone from the

producers and designers to the consumers is satisfied. The

people in production find the garments easier to sew, the

clothing designers can achieve shape and long term

performance, while the consumers get a good quality product

that is easy to care for, looks good and is easy to wear.

The basic aim of pressing is to make the garment look better for

longer periods of time. While still being comfortable.

Interlining reduces the occurrence of stretching, creasing and

wear.

FUNCTIONS OF INTERLINING:

To support the garment.

To control the shape of the garment.

To control the area of the apparel.

To reinforce the components of the garment.

To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.

To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.

To improve garment performance.

Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar, cuffs, waist

band, front facing of coat, outerwear plackets, jackets, blazers etc.

TYPES OF INTERLINING

There are mainly two types of interlining are as follows:

Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.

Fusible interlining

DIVISION OF FUSING:-Permanent Fusing and Temporary Fusing

Interlining can be divided into 2 groups temporary and permanent.

The purpose of temporary fusing is to make sewing easier and to reinforce the

stitching. The fusing intensity does not need to be strong as it is merely to

prevent puckering during stitching.

Permanent fusing is used when the shape and style of the garment intact.

Therefore after washing and long periods of use, the interlining must stay fused.

If the fusing temperature, pressure and timing are not correctly set, the intensity

of the fusing will differ. Before fusing, the type of material and interlining being

used and the desired intensity of the bond must be considered.

(a) Permanent fusing must stay fused after washing or dry cleaning.

(b) Temporary fusing is simply to make sewing easier and can become separated

after the garment is completed.

NON FUSIBLE INTERLINING The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics

directly by sewing without heat and pressure is called non-fuse

interlining.

This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or non-

fusible interlining.

For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is treated

with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn with main fabric.

Non fuse interlining is used for special case.

The application field is given below:

Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant”

apparel.

It is used for making apparel for fire service people.

Specially used in embroidery machine.

Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:

To make flame retardant garments.

Simple and easy technique.

No elaborate machine is required.

Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industry.

Disadvantages of Non-fusible Interlining:

Quality is not good.

Not suitable for large production.

More time required.

High work load & labor cost.

FUSIBLE INTERLINING:

It is most used interlining. The interlining which is

used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat

and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible

Interlining.

Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.

Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke

garment”. It is very popular.

Advantages of Fusible Interlining: To get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives the same outlook of the apparel.

Application process is very easy.

It has high productivity.

Fusing time is less.

It is cheap.

Performance is very good.

Disadvantages of Fusible Interlining: High temperature is required.

Special care is needed during attaching interlining.

TYPES OF FUSIBLE INTERLINING:

On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible interlining can be classified as follows:

Polyethylene coated interlining

Polyamide coated interlining

PVC coated interlining

Polyester coated interlining

Polypropylene coated interlining

PVA coated interlining

Polyethylene Coated Interlining:

Polyethylene is used asresin coating.

The effect of varying thedensity of the resin is togive a greater resistance todry cleaning solvents and ahigher softening point withincreasing density.

This type of interlining isused in collar, cuff of shirt.

The fabric attached withthis type of interlining canbe washed in water.

Polyamide Coated Interlining: Polyamide is used as resin

coating.

Poly-amides are verywidely used in drycleanable garments.

High temperature fusingis done for the garments,which are washed withwater at 60ºc.

PVC Coated Interlining:

Poly vinyl chloride isused as resin coating

This type is suitable forboth dry cleanable andwashable garments.

PVC coated interliningis widely used formaking the coat type

garments.

Polyester Coated Interlining: Polyester is used as resin coating

Polyester resins are used in drycleanable and washable garmentsbecause polyester is less waterabsorbent than polyamide.

It can be used as in all types ofgarments

This is called ideal interlining

Available in market but costly inprice

Polypropylene Coated Interlining Polypropylene coated

interlining. The resin is similar to the properties of polyethylene coated interning

Comparatively high temperature fusing is done.

The fabric attached with this interlining can be washed with water

PVA Coated Interlining PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate is used

as resin coating

PVA coated interlining is not dry cleanable and it

has limited wash ability

Low temperature and pressure is required.

Basically it is used between the leather and fur

materials.

The resin is normally in the form of a continuous

plasticized coating on the base fabric.

This type is rarely used in garments industry

SELECTING & USING SUPPORTIVE FABRICS

LININGS, UNDERLININGS & INTERLININGS

Lining LINING -- a separate, but attached, supportive or inner

garment fabric or fabric construction which conceals or covers the insidegarment construction.

Garments may be fully or only partially lined; completely or partially attached to the fashion garment.

A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming seam finishes and reduces "wear and tear" on the inside garment construction.

It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment.

A lining provides some body and support to a garment, but it never takes the place of interfacing.

It often makes the garment easier to wear over other clothing—as in a jacket or coat; it can eliminate the need for some under garmentssuch as a slip--as in a dress or skirt.

Fabric Selection

There are a multitude of fabrics suitable for use as a lining. The deciding factors include:

1) type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber content/method of care, hand or "feel," personal likes and dislikes)

2) type and style of garment

3) type of lining--partial or complete; and how the lining will be attached

Fabrics may be woven or knit; they should be able to "give"and recover as necessary to accommodate body movement.

The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, colorfast toperspiration and body oils and the same care method as thefashion fabric.

Lining should match or harmonize in color with the fashionfabric, and have a smooth surface texture to permit thegarment to be taken on and off the body easily.

It is important that the lining be the same weight (alightweight polyester or microfiber jacket or dress) or lighterweight (wool slacks or suit) and softer than the fashionfabric so that it does not dominate the garment.

Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using followingthe same procedure you plan to use for the finishedgarment.

Purchasing Tips

Pay very close attention to fiber content and fabric weave as they provide some very important clues to lining durability.

If garment is to be worn close to the body--i.e. dress--be sure lining is absorbent or "breathable." This often eliminates some synthetic linings made of polyester, nylon, etc.

Rayons, rayon/acetate blends or cotton may be more comfortable. Purchase or invest in the highest quality lining available

UNDERLINING

UNDERLINING -- a supportive or inner garment fabric which "backs," or is attached to,

each major garment piece (jacket front, jacket back, sleeve, etc.).

The underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece throughout the

construction process. The entire garment or only parts of the garment may be underlined

depending on the garment design, fashion fabric and the chief function of the

underlining. Underlining can give support and shape, prevent sagging and stretching, add

crease resistance, provide evenness of color when the fashion fabric is not opaque or

firmly woven, and help create certain fashion detail effects.

It is not designed to take the place of interfacing. A combination of underlining and lining

maybe used in a garment. Underlining should be preshrunk. Use the same grain as

corresponding garment pieces unless a separate pattern is included.

Fabric Selection: The weight of the underlining is usually lighter, but

compatible to the fashion fabric.

Underlining and the fashion fabric must be compatible in terms of care. Examples of underliningsinclude voile, organza, lightweight polyester/cotton blends, silk, muslin, lightweight percales, batiste, fusible tricot, and some commercial lining fabrics.

Underlining should be preshrunk before using.

INTERLINING INTERLINING --- a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction between the

lining and the fashion fabric used for many purposes. Interlining is usually cut

by the same pattern as the lining.

In the case of foam, fleece or felt-type fabric which adds some bulk, lining

would need to be cut some larger to accommodate interlining. Interlining does

not take the place of interfacing.

Fabric Selection: Some lining fabrics are backed with or come with interlining

substances: a metallic reflective finish, backed with wool, quilted, or napped-

backed lining fabrics, etc. Bulk often becomes a serious consideration; "warmth

without weight" is another. Interlinings must be compatible with all other fabrics

in the garment in terms of care.