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Intermediate SRTStudent Manual

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Intermediate Single RopeTechniques

Training CoursePublished by the Vertical Section of the

National Speleological Society, Inc.

First Edition 2008

Illustrations by Bruce SmithCourtesy of On Rope 1, Inc. and On Rope

Copyright 2008 by the Vertical Section of the NSSAll Rights Reserved

Printed in the USA

Liability DisclaimerWarning: Serious injury or death could result from the use of

the techniques and equipment described in this manual.

The Executive Board of the Vertical Section of the NSS Inc.provides this manual as a guide to Internal Organizations ofthe NSS for teaching safe vertical practices. All instructors

and persons practicing vertical rope work should use soundjudgment and a lot of common sense. Under no conditions

does the Vertical Section sanction use of this material by anyone not under the direct supervision of a qualified

vertical instructor.

This manual is provided with no liability to the authors, editors, critiques, publisher, or the National SpeleologicalSociety, Inc. expressed or implied, in the case of injury or

death to the instructors, their students, or any other reader.

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-VerticalSectionContact-Obtaincoursepackage-Put namein system

VS TrainingCoordinator

Course Booklet given toeach student

includes:-Introductory materials

-8 units of goals and materialsneeded to reinforce the learning

experience-3 Goals of the Course

Grotto Mentorassigned the taskto initiate training

Student and Grotto officer Student and Mentor

Knots

Rigging

Belaying Harnesses Equipment

AscendingMethods

Rescue Skills

Specialist Mentors assist student through each unit

-Butterfly-In-line Figure Eight-Bowline on a Bight-Double Figure Eight-Helical Hitch

-Verify basic knotskills are known

-Top belay using aGrigri, and or aMunter Hitch-Self belay-Can release a selfbelay device

-Can don and adjustto fit at least threedifferent types/makes of harnesses

-Can safely rappelusing 5 or more rappeldevices and know thelimitations of each-Can safely use 4 ormore mechanicalascenders and knowthe advantages anddisadvantages of each

-Can demonstrate theattributes of a safelyrigged rope-Pursues non-invasiverig points wheneverpossible-Places a knot at thebottom of the rope andknows why.-Can deploy, coil orbag, and transportteam gear to and froma rigging site-Set 3 bolts and hangfrom them

-Can rig andefficiently use aFrog System-Can rig and safelyuse a MitchellSystem-Can rig and safelyuse a Rope WalkerSystem-Can Rig and use aKnot System

-Can safely operatea haul system-Can safely pick-offan injured climberfrom a rope andbring them to theground-Can ascend/descend to aninjured climber andrappel them to theground

CavingSafely lead at least 3multi-drop cave trips-Taking charge ofrigging and thewelfare of theparticipants

Submitcompletedform to theVS TrainingCoordinator

VS TrainingCoordinatorwill return a signedand completedcertificate notingcompletion of course

Verti

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Start How it all works

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Intermediate Single Rope Techniques

Goals of the Course

1. Successfully negotiate a multi-drop cave environment under adverse conditions/situations, both up and down, in an efficient manner.

2. Perform all the skills outlined in the Basic Training Course.

3. Demonstrate and be actively involved in group leader- ship and assume command if the leader becomes disabled.

The “Whys”Always seek the root reasons behindall the things you learn. Learn the“Whys”. If you can answer why youare doing something a certain way andit makes sense to you and to others,chances are you are doing it right. Ifyou are doing things just because youheard it should be done that way oryour friend Bill said to do it that waythen chances are you do not fullyunderstand the depth of your topic andthere is a good chance it needs to berevisited. Always seek higher knowl-edge. Separate proven methods andtechniques from lore and rumor. Bediligent with your knowledge for it isthe ultimate force that will pull youthrough the most difficult of situations.

A mentor: a trusted friend,counselor or teacher, usually a moreexperienced person. Some professionshave “mentoring programs” in whichnewcomers are paired with moreexperienced people in order to obtaingood examples and advice as theyadvance. Schools sometimes havementoring programs for new students orstudents who are having difficulties.

Mentors provide their expertise toless experienced individuals in order tohelp them advance their careers, enhancetheir education, and build their networks.Many of the world’s most successfulpeople have benefited from having amentor.

A Mentor

If you are fortunate enough to beselected as a Mentor, be good at what youare expected to do. Read the section onbeing a good Trainer on page 9

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Thoughts about knots. Using andunderstanding all the aspects of the knots youchoose to use is the most important part ofthe knot subject. Learn a few and know themwell.

1. Practice making knots with rope thesize you intend to use in the field.

2. Make the knots compact and small.

3. Make the loops in the knots the sizeof those things they may encircle.

Knots

In-line Figure Eight is one of the eightknots in the family of eights and qualifies asa mid-line knot. It is a directional knot and isvery useful when tying a Trucker’s Hitch. Itrequires the knowledge of making the knotin both directions. It too, radically bends the

Butterfly Knot is a great mid-line knot andis useful for tying out a bad spot on therope or attaching a carabiner to a point onthe rope. It does tend to bend the roperadically through the bends of theconfiguration resulting in a lower- than-average breaking strength. Most texts rateit about 60-65%. It is omni-directional andvery easy to inspect. It seems to workbest with softer ropes.

resulting configuration rendering it a knot thatis lower than average in breaking strengthmuch like the Butterfly Knot.

Butterfly Knot

Small, tight, compactrigging includes smallconnection loops.

Goals of this Unit1. Master 5 additional knots thatyou may or may not have learnedin the Basic Vertical SRT Course

4. Very few knots need what somepeople refer to as back-up knots. In allthe knot text books including some ofthe great historical reference texts,back-up knots are never mentioned.Clifford Ashley in his incredible bookAshley’s Book of Knots says, “ a knotis never “nearly right;” It is eitherexactly right or it is hopelesslywrong, one or the other; there isnothing in between.” By addingsome version of a helper back-upknot we contribute to the knot being“hopelessly wrong.”

5. Dress and stress a knot. Will it makeit stronger? Maybe not, but it willallow it to be inspected from adistance. This is very important for asafety officer to be able to identifyand verify that the knot is tiedcorrectly.

In-Line Figure Eight

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Bowline-on-a-Bight is also a mid-line knotand is one of the preferred double loopknots because it unties so easily, even afterextraordinary tightening. It too is multi-directional and is a great knot to include inone’s arsenal.

Bowline on a Bight

The Double Figure Eight is a largecomplicated knot that can be used for eitheran end-line knot or a mid-line knot. It can beused as an emergency harness according to

Double Figure Eight

To properlydress thisknot, besure thatthis part istuckedhere in theend duringthe dress-ing andstressing.

many Firefighter training texts. Most users,however, use this knot as a mid-line knot forrigging to multiple points or for an end-lineconnection point. Many people feel thedouble loop provides better loop durabilitybecause there are two loops. The weak pointof the knot, however, is like any other FigureEight on a Bight where the standing lineenters the knot. In a pull test the knot will breakat this point.

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The Helical Hitch is a very easy to usegripping knot much like a Prusik. It slideseasier than a Prusik and requires much lessrope than a Prusik to tie. As a gripping knot,however, it only suspends from one cord,whereas a Prusik suspends from two cords. Ifyou can tie a Bowline you can tie a Helical. Alla Helical Hitch is a Bowline that has thebowline loop rope rotated around and aroundand around the main rope. Its gripping abilitydepends on the number of coils. Typically, 5coils is the minimum number of coils and canincludeas many as 10 coils.

Take time to refresh your skills with the other necessary knots you learned in the BasicVertical Single Rope Techniques Course.

Helical Hitch

Bowline

“There is nothing quite as rewarding astying a beautiful knot”

Anita BriemJourney to the Center of the Earth 3D

Famous Ashley Quotes

“The question of what knot is best for aparticular need is perhaps the most importantof all to be considered.”

“Perhaps the most difficult taskI have attempted is to sort out theterminology of knots and to ascribe tothem their rightful names.”

“At sea, the whole subject of knots iscommonly divided into four classifications:hitches, bends, knots and splices.”

“It appears to be true that arope is weakest just outside theentrance to a knot......”

“A knot is never “nearly right”; it is eitherexactly right or it is hopelessly wrong, oneor the other; there is nothing in between.”

Overhand KnotRing Bend (Water Knot)BowlineFigure EightFigure Eight on a Bight

Figure Eight Follow-throughDouble Overhand Bend(Double Fisherman’s Bend)Triple Overhand BendPrusik Hitch

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BelayingGoals of this Unit1. Top belay a person using a Grigri, and or a Munter Hitch2. Put together and use a self belay Activate it to make sure it works.3. Develop the skills to release a self belay device, like a Prusik or Shunt

A Belay is a safety or back-up inthe event that a primary system fails.Even with a belay, the risk of serious injuryor death remains. However, a belay whenapplied properly can provide an additionalmargin of safety.

Belaying is controversial. There aremany forms of descending belays: topbelays, bottom belays and spelean shuntbelays. In addition there are numerousascending belays.

Research the various belay methodsand become familiar with how they work.Practice using belays. Secure a heavy load(body weight) from a limb or high placewhile belayed and release the primary line.Try to catch a falling load with the belay.Practice until you can do this.

It is best to secure the belay deviceyou intend to use to an anchor and operatethe belay from the side. Throwing the ropearound your waist and attempting to stop aload with your fleshy mid-section is “oldschool.” Modernize your approach as de-scribed earlier.

Belay Devices Belay devices should be two-way opera-tional. Figure Eights are bi-directional butdo not provide very much stopping power.Grigris on the other hand are bi-directionaland do a good job of stopping a falling load.Racks make terrible belay devices. They onlywork in one direction. Be sure you have a wayto loosen a belay once it has activated.

Common Devices

ATC Grigri

Munter Hitch

TandemTriple WrapPrusiks

Words of Caution A belay should neverdistract the user fromperforming the originalintended task. If one is rappelling their focusshould be on rappelling. Distractions thatcause one to rappel dangerously should beavoided. A French Wrap rappel belay, forexample, may divide the user’s attentionbetween the two activities-a dangeroussituation. There is a school of climbers that feel nobelay is the best approach. If a belay tugs,inhibits the function of the original activity,throws a climber off balance, or redirects his/her attention, it is the wrong approach.Some believe the best safety margin isachieved by knowing exactly what to dowhen, and doing it with deliberate precision.Eliminating distractions is the first step infocusing on performing the needed skills withprecision.

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Harnesses

Harnesses are the integral compo-nent that safely connect people to ropes.Routinely the leader of a group needs toensure that harnesses are fitted properly,buckles properly fastened, webbing is notfolded or rolled and padding is situated sothat it provides comfort to important sensi-tive areas. A group leader needs to moni-tor how long people have been hanging inharnesses so that harness straps don’t endup restricting the flow of blood and causingproblems with pooling blood pockets whichprevent the timely return of a muscle’s fuelsource to its cleansing and regenerationorgans.

“No element of the harness must beallowed to interfere with breathing orcreate painful pressure on any part ofthe body.” Amphoux 1982

“The essential element [in a seat harness]is the strap under the buttocks. It rests, infact on the pelvis, the most rigid and solidelement of the human frame and is cush-ioned by larger areas of flesh.”

Amphoux 1982

Know the Pitfalls In a sit harness there are a number ofsensitive organs that lie under the waist belt,including the pancreas, kidneys, liver,spleen, stomach and other abdominal sensi-tive areas. Medically, the user after sittingmotionless in a seat harness for only 10minutes will experience numbness, nausea,extreme paresthesia, abdominal distress,severe breathing distress and symptoms ofsuffocation. A good comfortable fit is veryimportant. Cavers have suffered for yearswith thin, minimalistic sized harnesses tolimit the volume of their pack.

Being a minimalist carries a doubleedged sword. It helps by reducing weightand bulk, but leaves the user with a smallersafety factor and a reduced back-up systemon which to fall back on. A well paddedharness often solves medical concerns, butbloats the size of your cave pack.

“There is no human tolerance to be sus-pended by a Thoracic Belt.” i.e.Chest harness

Post fall suspension in any harness wasrarely a concern until Brinkley’s study in1988. His full body harness tests provedthat a user only has about 30 minutessuspended in such a harness before intoler-able pain resulting from circulation problemsbegins. Death follows soon there after.

Seat HarnessesMost cavers use a seat harness. It shouldbe used as designed. Read and know whatthe manufacturer instructs in their userdocuments. If they declare that a by-passcarabiner on a belay loop style harness isdangerous and the user’s weight will morethan likely end up cross loading the cara-biner gate, then do not use a by-pass cara-biner. Learn how to use each type of buckles themanufacturers incorporate with all thevarious styles of harnesses. Learn where all the adjustments are foreach person. Recognize immediately if someone’s har-ness is donned improperly or a buckle isincorrectly fastened. Take the responsibility of a leader whowatches over your group and all thosesafety things that will keep them alive. It ismore than just your gear that you need toknow a lot about.

Full Body Harnesses

Goals for this Unit1. Know how to use at least three harnesses and all the adjustments

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TrainingEveryone is in one form or another acloset instructor. They routinely have noformal training and when confronted withspeed bumps that are out of their realm ofexprerience they make up their own rules.This continues to plague all training orga-nizations. Maintaining and insuring train-ing standards is a challenge that all of usbear.

It is so easy to fall back on methods andways you learned long ago. Ask yourself“Why” you have chosen to do somethinga certain way. If your answer is “I havealways done it this way” then maybe thatis not the best way after all. Expect moresubstance from an answer than “I havealways done it this way.” Be a bettertrainer. Be a better student. Pursue thetruth. There are many myths, legendsand a lot of lore about harnesses. Beingable to separate all the fantasy from factsbecomes your job in the end.

Harnesses

A by-pass carabiner, asshown above, is discour-aged by most manufactur-ers. Petzl plainly shows theSkull and Crossbones ofthe problems as shown onthe left. This demon-strates how lore and mythhave generated a worldwide transferance toincorrect and dangerousinformation.

By-pass Carabiner

EnduranceGoliath

Super AvantiFractio

Spectrum

Pit Viper

Lookout

Expedition Goliath

Padded Endurance

PMI Delta

Know the harnesses that may be on your nextcaving trip. Which buckles on which harnesses arecommonly called “Triple pass?” What is a cinchbuckle? Does it require a third pass?

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Rappelling

Rappelling is the most dangerous thingwe do. Being suspended from a single pointof attachment requires a focused approachto this activity. Many people ask if theyshould use a second point of attachmentand monitor this point while controlling thefirst primary method of descent. Where itmay seem like a logical thing to do, it is theopinion of the VS that a focused effort is thebest approach. We do not suggest, using acell phone, i-pod, eating your lunch, or eventaking a drink of water during a rappel. A rappeller should rappel and only rappel,resisting all other distractions. The very lifeof the rappeller is based on his/her ability torappel safely. Resist distractions and moni-tor everything that happens to you and to allof your equipment during your rappel. If there is an activity that a rappeller needsto do while on rope, stop rappelling, lock offthe rappel device and complete the requiredtask. Then continue safely rappelling.

Use all your senses. Feel the heat throughyour gloves. Watch the reaction of yourrope, feel the rigid reaction to your weight onyour anchor, smell the rope and metalinteraction as they heat to insure you arenot extending your margin of safety, monitorthe dryness in your mouth as you movethrough space on your terms and listen toevery noise around you and all the gear thatyou are using. Listen for others who may beshouting warnings or attempting to get yourattention.If you choose to use a French Wrap then you

Goals of this Unit1. The student should be able to safely rappel using 5 or more rappel devices and know the limitations of each.2. The student should be able to safely use 4 or more mechanical ascenders and know the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Equipment

Rappelling Have your rappelling mentor carefullyexplain 5 of the following common descentdevices and the limitations of each. Thenrappel with each device until you feel youcould coach someone else in the wilder-ness. Know enough to get someone out oftrouble if they were using such a device andexperienced problems. A leader needs allthe characteristcs of a mentor/teacher andprovide team members with important tips toinsure their safety.

The mentor should ensure that the studentuses a QAS and reinforce its virtues.

Examples of rappelling devices:

14” Rappel Rack14” Rack with a hyperbar18” Rack (long rack)24” Rack (long rack)Micro Rack (3 varieties)Petzl StopFigure 8ATC or similarWhaletailRappel another person down a drop from afixed positionRappel with another person secured to theeye of your rackl

are asking your 5 senses to keep track of allthese things with regard to your second pointof attachment as well. Multi-tasking may beokay while you are watching TV, but during alife and death situation, like rappelling, focuson one thing and only one thing.

Mentor Tips and Activities

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Common Rappelling Considerations

1. Check all equipment before moving to the edge with your QAS.2. Rappel with a controlled speed.3. Hand position correct? Brake hand does not change between devices, however, the control hand when using a rack adjusts the bars, on a Figure 8 it holds the rope above the rappeller and maintains balance...and so on.4. Keep your back straight and face/hair away from the rappel device and rope.5. If against a wall, maintain stable feet positions.6. Feet spread apart, no jumping or bound -ing. Respect your anchor and rope.7. Keep other equipment, clothes, and body parts out of the rappel device.8. Stay alert at all times.9. Pre-establish a signalling system. Com- municate clearly when on or off rope.10. As a student, study and research the best ways to use various devices. Seek out the opinions of other people whom you respect.11. Practice adding and subtracting bars during a descent.12. Check the surface before landing.13. Squat to relieve rope tension, then stand up.14. Quickly de-rig from your rappel device.15. Clear the landing zone.16. Signal “Off Rope” only when you are clear of the drop.17. Listen for “OKay” from the proper source(s).

Environmental Concerns1. Weather or drop conditions, wet, muddy2. Load being rappelled: To safely control big loads one needs more friction.3. An honest assessment of the skill of the rappeller should be made.4. Start with more friction than needed if there is any doubt of how many bars will be needed.5. Assess the drop for rock fall dangers.

Rappel Devices

The various designs and materials canaffect your rappel greatly.

Size, condition, and type of ropePosition of brake and control handMass to be rappelledEnvironment (rain, mud, clear)

Distance between barsSize of the barsType of bars (aluminum, StainlessSteel, Titanium, steel, etc.)Number of bars engagedOffset bars

Heat dissipationA leader should thoroughly understand

the importance of heat dissipation and keep-ing your rappel device cool. -Aluminum heats up quickly, but cools offand dissipates the heat quickly. (Note: thesticky point of nylon is 250o). Nylon’s meltingpoint is 480o but it loses all of its integrity atabout 330o. The rope will take on the con-sistency of jello. -Steel heats up slowly and cools slowly aswell. -Titanium seems to take on many of thesame characteristics as aluminum. -The more metal mass, the more efficientthe rack will be in removing heat from therope, thus decreasing the chance of theheat building to a rope damaging tempera-ture. An ATC has some of the smallest metalmass and will reach dangerous tempera-tures sooner than most devices.

Materials-Aluminum wears out the fastest, andleaves gray aluminum particles on the rope.-Steel lasts longer. Hollow bars remaincooler during a rappel.-Titanium is strong and light, but brittle andmore expensive.

Rack Specific:

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EquipmentAscenders As the years pass, more andmore ascenders infiltrate the market. Manyof these may have practical applicationswhen incorporated with a QAS. Some workbest for a rope climbing system. Some haveteeth and some have a cam which seem tobe a little softer on the rope. Get to know as many as possible-Become familiar with the safety mecha-nisms.-Be able to discuss the strengths of thevarious models.-Which ones have straight teeth and whichones have agressive hooked teeth?-Which ones fit a gloved hand?-Does one have greater hand comfort overanother?-Discuss the virtues of cams over handledascenders.-What does QAS really mean?* *Answer below

-Jumars, (no longer available, however lead-ers should know about them).-Crolls are specifically designed for the FrogSystem chest ascender, but can be used asa left handed, non-handled, ascender.-Basics are right handed, non-handledascenders.-Does the ascender you intend to use gripthe rope during wet or muddy conditions?-Will it down climb conveniently?-Does it work on multiple sizes of ropes?-Do you know that Rescucenders are ratedto slip at 4 kN? (safety issue for rescue)-ABC ascenders seem to have a superioroperational mechanism.

*QAS means Quick Attachment Safety which implies one handoperation. Cams that require two handed operation don’t qualify.

Know your gear along witheveryone elses.

ABC ChestBasic B18Panteen B02Ascension B17LCroll B16Rescuecender B50

Ascension B17RGibbs #1ABC Handled Ascenders

Know your gear

What arethey bestused for?

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Climbing SystemsThere is nothing magical aboutThree Points of Contact.

This is an urban myth.There are Three Criteria for all good reliableclimbing systems.

1. If any component were to fail theclimber will not fall.

2. If any component were to fail theclimber will not fall upsidedown.

3. If any component were to fail theclimber can call into use athird, ready-to-use ascenderto fix, make safe, or replacethe failed component.

Almost universally, all systems useonly 2 ascenders. As one ascender holdsthe climber in place, the other one is ad-vanced up the rope. After all, we only havetwo legs and can only move one ascenderat a time. If we had three legs, the rulesmight be different.

Some climbers suggest using a third,floating, ascender. This is suggested underrequirement no. 3 above. Folks who rope-walk routinely ride their QAS above theirchest roller. If an ascender fails, theclimber can immediately take inventory oftheir situation and chances could be goodthat the climber could make some minormodifications, switch his/her climbingmethod to a Texas system and continue.

In the 1980’s there was considerableamounts of research done on the use oftethers to make sure if any componentfailed the climber would never fall or fallupside down and would have a ready-to-use ascender to ensure recovery.

Take time to look up some of theseclassic older articles that ensured safety.

Goals of the Climbing System’s Unit

1. Rig and safely operate anefficient operational FrogSystem.

2. Rig and safely operate anefficient operational MitchellSystem.

3. Rig and safely operate a RopeWalker System. i.e. DoubleBungee System or SingleBungee System (Very few people useSingle Bungee Systems anymore.)

4. Rig and safely use a knotclimbing system.

Other system parameters-Chicken loops must be strong enough tohold a climber’s weight in case they invert andbecome suspended from a foot ascender.-Cinch buckles adjust more readily andhelp faciliatate quick, necessary adjust-ments.-Establish a regular system of inspectionand replacement of worn components. This last parameter is easy to say,“Yeah! Yeah! Yeah! I inspect my stuffeverytime I use it.” I would suggest thatmany people say this, but do little about it.After all, it is expensive to throw away gear.It is so easy to say, “Ah! It will last anothertrip!” Challenge yourself to critique the condi-tion of your own gear as harshly as we sooften critique others. Dirty gear is notvirtuous. Dirt on gear probably reduces itslife by as much as half. Dirt should bescrubbed from around sewn stitches orthey will rot. Dirt causes nylon to prema-turely dry rot. Dirt and moisture causesbuckles to rust and age prematurely. It hasoften been said that, “If it’s not muddy, you’renot a caver.” This approach to safe caving isdangerous. In reality, just the opposite istrue.

Gary Storrick

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Frog System

Features:-Compact and versatile-Fairly light weight-Requires a sit-stand motion-Can be tiring to use-Designed for tall, lean, physically fitclimbers-Negotiates rebelay points with ease-Often worn while caving-Requires precision adjustments foroptimum progress-One of the less expensive ways toascend-Requires a harness that incorpo-rates a half round

Loading the Half RoundMake sure there is freeaccess to the gate side ofthe Croll. The user mustbe able to easily manipu-late the cam as the situa-tion dictates. In otherwords, place the CowsTail in the half round awayfrom the gate side of theCroll as shown.

What is the short Cow’s Tail used for?

1. The short Cows’ Tail is very impor-tant when attempting to cross arebelay. Special instruction is neededand practice at a low altitude beforesuch a manuever is attempted. Morepeople get hurt or die attempting thisone single maneuver than any othervertical skill.2. The short Cow’s Tail is importantwhen attempting changeovers. Under-standing this one simple trick will allowyou to changeover at lightning speed.

Frog Climbing Tips1. Let your legs, not your arms do most ofthe work. Curl your legs under your buttand stand straight upward. After a goodclimb, your butt should be sore, not yourarms.2. Froggers can self-start easily by drop-ping the rope between their feet and pinch-ing the rope between the feet (or boots)(holding it down simulating a bottom belay)during the stand-up phase of a cycle.3. Stand straight up. If a climber finds thatthey are climbing at an angle, then valu-able energy is lost during each cycle aseach stroke’s energy will need to be redi-rected into a straight down force providingan upward motion.4. There is a variety of other techniquesthat a Frogger must learn. Seek specialtraining and instruction on the use of theFrog System. Be careful and prudent.Proceed with caution. Start with smallclimbs and practice rebelays outside.

Back ofCroll

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Easy Adjustment to the FootSling1. Put on your system2. Put both feet in the foot loop(s)3. Hold the top ascender just

above the Croll.4. Adjust the foot loop cord length

so that it is tight. This a goodstarting point. If the user’smuscle tone is not firm, theprecise adjustment methodmay be necessary.

Adjustments

H Harness Adjustments

Start by positioning the center rear crossstrap low between your shoulder blades, (asshown) about where a bra strap would go (ifyou wore one). The ladder lock (plasticbuckle) on the right shoulder can be ex-tended or shortened so it remains userconvenient. The two male side releasebuckles should each reach down the user’ssides and snap onto the female side releasebuckles sewn into the harness or loopthrough the waist belt in the front and connect.

Precise Adjustment1. Put on your system and attach it to a rope.2. Attempt the “stand up” part of the climbing cycle.3. Measure the distance deficiency between the top of the Croll and the bottom of the handled ascender.4. With your weight on your foot sling measure the same distance down from the handled ascender and mark the rope with the piece of tape, chalk pen, whatever.5. Get off the rope, untie the foot loop and retie the Triple Overhand Noose or adjust the webbing at the buckle(s) to conform to the new shorter distance.6. Put on the system one more time and test the system to verify that it works properly and that the maximum gain up the rope is being achieved with each stroke.

Rappelling with a Frog SystemEuropean Froggers use the Petzl Stop or adevice that has the capabilty to load fromthe bottom. The virtues of such a deviceare difficult to describe, but will becomeapparent when used.

If Rappelling with a rack,the one that best interfaceswith the half round is the 90o

twisted eye rack. This allowsthe user to change barseasier.

Cow’s Tail adjustments The length of the long Cow’s Tailshould be such, that when you hangfrom your foot ascender only (no Crollattached) you should just be able to getyour hand into the handle of the as-cender. If a climber is very tall or veryshort, special tailor-made Cow’s Tailsmay be necessary.

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Mitchell SystemFeatures:-Very fast on rope-Very versatile on rope-Can down climb very fast-Requires the use of both hands during movement-Resting requires the positioning of the QAS above the upper ascender or creative tether use-Any harness works with the Mitchell-Can tax your lower back muscles-Works well for very long climbs if theclimber is in shape-Good for tandem climbing

Mentor should:-Observe the student positioning the chestplate high on their chest (high above thenipple line).-Observe the student not walking on their footstirrups.-Observe the student verifing that when onrope the long cord positions the upper as-cender just above the double chest platewhen both feet are together.-Observe the student using components fromthe Mitchell System to climb Texas.-Observe the student’s ability to self start.-Observe the student’s ability to inspect andevaluate the condition of the Mitchell Systemthey are using.

Self Starting and Down Climbing

1. Hold the short ascender with your index or middle finger as shown.2. Thumb the cam as shown to release the cam if necessary.3. Whether self starting or down climbing this skill is an important one to master.

Mitchell Climbing System

The Mitchell System has as many as6 points of contact that need to besecured prior to ascending.1. Attach the top ascender above the chest roller on the main rope.2. Attach the bottom ascender below the chest roller on the main rope.3. Attach the chest roller around the main rope (passive attachment).4. Attach the chest roller around the long foot cord (passive attachment.5-6. Attach the safety tether(s) to your seat harness.

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Rope WalkingFeatures:-Fastest system on rope-Hands free if the climber desires-Medium bulk and weight-Versatile-Easy to rest-Negotiates rebelay points with difficulty-Any harness works-Requires a stand-up walking motion-Can tax your lower back muscles-Works well for the very long climbs-Good for tandem climbing

System Donning and Sequencing-Put the seat harness on first-Put the chest harness on second-At the base of the rope put the foot stirrups on.-Connect the safety tether to the harness at this point.-Attach the rope to the system from the bottom up. Foot ascender--then knee ascender--then chest roller.-Attach the bungee cord to the chest roller.-Finally, attach the QAS above the roller and make sure it is secured into the seat harness carabiner. (experienced climbers may choose to climb without a QAS)

Chest Harness DonningAlways tighten the chest first and the

shoulder straps last. Position the 2”buckle between the user’s armpit and the

chest plate. The chest plate should ride highon the chest, well above the nipple line. Thebungee cord should be sized using a highpositioned chest roller as a guide.

Knee Ascender AdjustmentThe knee ascender should be situated so thatthe bottom of the ascender rides in the middleof the kneecap. Any higher and there is a risk ofthe ascender slapping the user in the groin andany lower and the knee ascender can clash intothe bottom ascender with each step

OperationAfter securing all three ascenders tothe rope, double checking to ensurethat all screw gates are locked, as-cenders are secured, and the roller isporoperly seated, begin climbing upthe rope very much like you mightwalk up stairs.Take small steps atfirst. Establish a rhythm. Work onstyle and form. Watch your systemwork.

Mentor should :-Observe student takingcare of the life of thebungee cord.-Observe the student notwalking on their foot stir-rups.-Observe the student keep-ing bungees and tethersuntangled.-Observe the student breakthe system down to a Texasand changeover in under 5minutes.-Observe the student in-spect and evaluate thecondition of the Dbl Bungeesystem he/she is using.-Observe the student self-start.

Self StartingAttempt to allow theright foot ascender totrack up the rope(raise your foot so theascender follows thenatural line of thehanging rope).

A Double Bungee RopeWalker is shown above

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Climbing with KnotsFeatures of this System:-Compact and light-Classic way to climb, nostalgic-Sit-stand motion requires a lot of energy-Pushing or pulling knots up the rope canbe tiring.-Slow on and off the rope-Climbing speed varies with skill andpractice-Climbing time on rope is consideredoverall slow-Emergency procedures such as achangeover or pick-off is extremely diffi-cult when using knots and a lot of practiceis required.-Back-up method that every leader shouldbe able to pull from their pack in an emer-gency.

Knot Climbing Systems were among thevery first ways that people were able toefficiently climb ropes. They have evolvedand in their popular years (1950-1975) mostof all the deep pits of the world were ex-plored using Knot Climbing Systems.

Misconceptions-The biggest misconception about knotclimbing is that whenever everything elsefails, knots will work.-No prior planning has to take place to set inmotion a knot climbing sytem that will workefficiently.-Incorporating knots into a climbing systemdoesn’t take that much planning and forethought.-Anyone can do it. This is intuitive, eveneasy.-How much rope it takes to tie a knot. Tieknots and measure the rope when you’redone. An 8 mm Prusik on 11 mm rope takesas much as 20 inches of 8 mm cordage tomake a Prusik Hitch.

Tips-Many times a gripping ascender hitch canbe used to replace a lost or malfunctioningmechanical ascender.-When climbing with a gripping knot try tokeep it short. It should never be so long asto be above the user’s head.

There are numerous ways someone canuse knots to climb up a rope, but there aretwo knot systems that have surfaced as themost popular.Texas MethodConnecting a knot from a seat harness tothe main rope and another cord set fromboth feet up to the main rope we canachieve a pretty efficient sit-stand system.

Ascending Methods

Classic Three KnotThis system requires a wide horse girth typeof chest harness and three separate knots.

Raise the rightfoot Prusik

Curl yourlegs underyour butt

Stand up whileraising thechest Prusik

Raise the leftfoot Prusik

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Rigging

Goals of the Rigging Unit1. Can demonstrate the attributes of a safely rigged rope.2. Pursues non-invasive rig points whenever possible.3. Places a knot at the bottom of the rope and knows why.4. Can deploy, coil or bag, and trans- port team gear to and from a rigging site.5. Can set 3 bolts and hang from them.

Advice to the Student:Seek several Mentors for this unit. Somepeople spend a lifetime pursuing and mas-tering this one single topic. Being a greatrigger takes a lot of dedication and commit-ment. Be thorough with your quest to be agreat rigger for as a leader your team willdepend on you to provide safe passage.

High Strength Tie-offTwo wraps around atree with biner asshown provides al-most 100% ropestrength.A rope pad can helpto protect thecambrian of thetree’s bark.

Wrap 3-Pull 2Webbing with a tied RingBend. This rigging hasmany applications andprovides a strong anchor.

Natural anchors are best. Seek non-invasive rig points whenever possible.Drilling holes in which to place bolts shouldbe the last resort when looking for a suitableanchor. Setting the bolt causes it to expandin the hole. This exerts outward pressure onthe rock, rendering it secure, but weakensthe rock for several inches around the boltplacement.

“Ethically, bolts are only justified inthe absence of a suitable alternativeanchor...” Montgomery

Read and research all you can find aboutbolt placement.

“Bolts can also remove one of caveexploring’s main technical challenges:that of constructing safe, well-posi-tioned anchors using the natural fea-tures of the rock. The bolt-orientedcaver may never see the hidden jughandle, or crack which only closescrutiny will reveal. Bolts are the easyway out....” Montgomery

Know what forces thedeviated anchor feels.

Notice that a 90o deviationexperiences 141% of the load

suspended from the rope. What doesa top roped climbing belay feel if the belay

is secured at the bottom of the drop?

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RebelaysBe familiar with rigging a rebelay andbecome an expert at negotiating pastthem. Rebelay rigging techniques havebecome as common in North America asNorth American one-long-rope tech-niques. The primary advantage is that wellplaced rebelays can protect a rope fromabrading itself on an exposed rock. Thedisadvantages stem from unsightly de-facement to the pristine beauty of thecave.

A Rebelay should be placed on or justbelow a rub point. The step-in loop mustbe kept small in case of anchor failure.There should be about 1 meter from thetop of the metal anchor to the bottom ofthe loop. Turn your rope over to counteractsheath milking.Pictured here are several options that canprovide rigging stations on a wall.

Tworopes ataRebelay

Rope CareKnow and practice the necessary care thata rope requires. If ropes get wet, they mustbe dry prior to bag storage or mildew willresult. There are advantages and draw-backs about all the ways to transport rope.Know and understand the “whys” of all theways.

Chained Rope

Chained Webbing

Bagged Rope

Requires a knot inside andoutside the bag

Caver Coil or Mountain Coil

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Rescue SkillsGoals for this Unit1. Student can safely build and operate a haul system.2. Student can safely pick-off an injured climber from a rope and bring them to the ground.3. Student can ascend/descend to an injured climber and rappel them to the ground.

Rescue It is not uncommon that during theevolution of new caver’s instruction prob-lems may occur that they are unable tocope with. It may become necessary tohaul them out of a pit that may have beentoo aggressive for them or challenged theirskills to a point beyond their capabilities.Perhaps the training was thorough, but anunfortunate collapse has injured a memberof the party and raising them out of a verti-cal challenge has become necessary. If 2 or 3 people bring small pulleys in theirpacks to share the weight, it would be easyto set up a number of haul systems that canpull an injured person to safety. The study and understanding of haulsystems requires dedication and substantialstudy. What is presented here is only a smalltaste.

A single pulley can provide adirectional from a high place.A Prusik with a pulley asshown can provide aprogress capturedevice (PCD).

The next option is to build a 3:1 haul system

as shown on the left andat the bottom of the page.

Each have different fea-tures of complexity. Build

the system as shown belowwith the haul system at the

top of the drop. Thereshould be a haul line extend-

ing down to the person who needs

assistance.

Using a reset line greatly facilitates theoperation of a haul system as it resetseach cycle quickly. However, it doesrequire a mechanicalascender.

Seek

Hig

h H

elp

Pull

Load

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Rescue SkillsPick Offs1. When is a pick-off needed?

2. Work through a logical thought process to ensure the most efficient process is used. a. Placing a rescuer in harm’s way by

going to the individual should be thelast option considered.

b. Every effort should be made to getthe individual to complete the rappelor climb and allow them to self rescue

c. If necessary, carefully consider thefollowing options.

3. Talk the participant through the problem from a distance.4. Assume the participant has no second line (belay line) and is on a single line; a two rope pick-off is one option.

Perform an Assist

An “Assist” is the lowering orintroduction of another rope tohelp the stranded person.

One Rope Conscious Pick-off (smallparty rescue with limited resources)

Research ways that this can be done.

Note: Advanced training isneeded. These require exten-sive personal rope skills,changeover skills, and manyhours of focused training.

Become an expert with a Jigger

Jigger4:1 whenanchored atthis end

5:1 when anchoredat this end

The use of a Jigger to release tensionfrom a loaded line can be one of the besttools in a rescuer’s tool box. Other optionsare possible, but in the end, a Jiggerworks best by providing tensioning andslacking capabilities.

The long Prusik method provides onlyholding options and does not providetensioning or slacking capabilities. Askany experienced rigger. The versatileJigger will be their tool of choice in theirtool box. Jiggers can be used as theengine to enable a traveling haul system.

Consider using an ascender to quickly attach

to the non-anchored end

Important: It is best when rescuing a strandedperson to lower them to the ground! Feed andwarm them. Re-establish good blood circulation.Then raise them to safety. There are exceptions,but typically let gravity be your friend and geteveryone out of harm’s way as fast as possible.Fumbling with an ineffective raising systemcould kill your patient if it takes too long.

Hair or clothing entrappped Stranded person on an exposed ledge Fouled equipment Injury or exhaustion Typically, it will be an emergency.

Perform a scene survey first!Don’t let whatever got theperson in trouble get you!

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CavingGoals of this Unit1. Safely lead at least 3 multi-dropcave trips--taking change of riggingand the welfare of the participants.

The seven sections before this shouldhave helped to prepare you for this last unit.Did it cover every skill you needed? Prob-ably not. But hopefully it moved you aheadof the learning curve to ready yourself forthe many challenges that remain under-ground. Just completing this intermediatecourse is the springboard to higher adven-ture and more fulfilling experiences that youwere only teased by the in the Basic VerticalCourse. Through it all, cave softly. Cave responsi-bly. Use good judgment. Use prudence.Leave the cave when someone gets hurt.Leave the cave when indications of exhaus-tion start affecting the first party member.Leave the cave when half your primary lightsources are gone. Reach a telephone withinthe time you told someone you would be outand safely. Monitor weather reports.

Take every opportunity to ask your men-tors key questions that will make you abetter caver. As a leader, your bullet proofdays are over. You are the designateddriver. You are the one that cannot get hurt.You are the one who should not takechances. Caution should be your watch-word. Side with conservatism. Never put any of your team members atrisk. Cater to the weakest member of yourteam. As a leader it is important to grow upquickly, but never forget the joys that cavingand discovery gave you during your earlyyears. Let your team lead the way now andthen with your sage guidance alwaysnearby. Carry your knowledge and experi-ence softly, but always nearby for the un-knowing to sip from. Let your team glow inthe thrills of their own successfully lead tripsand let them take pride in their achieve-ments.

Return completed documents to the VerticalSection Training Coordinator.Bruce W. Smith6313 Jan Lane DriveHarrison, TN 37341

For questions, call423-344-4716 work

423-344-2345 home423-838-2626 cell

“To me the simple act of tying a knot isan adventure in unlimited space. A bit ofstring affords a dimensional latitude thatis unique among the entities. For anuncomplicated strand is a palpableobject that, for all practical purposespossesses one dimension only. If wemove a single strand in a plane, interlac-ing it at will, actual objects of beauty andutility can result in what is practicallytwo dimensions; and if we choose todirect our strand out of this one planeanother dimension is added whichprovides opportunity for an excursionthat is limited only by the scope of ourown imagery and the length of theropemaker’s coil.” Clifford Ashley

Take nothing but pictures.Leave nothing but footprints, (and leave

them in the right places).

Kill nothing but time.NSS Motto

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