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Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

In the LoupeThe World Leader in Gems... JTV Leaves No Stone Unturned

From the Editor:Happy August, everyone! hope you are reading his from the comfort of

an air conditioned home or office. The heat has been incredible this ummer.

We cover a lot of great material this month.Make sure to read Part Two of Cara Williams tudy on chromium in

gems and the article by pecial guest author Paul

Perone, an avid collector and JTV customer. Other opics include peridot,urquoise, and a really trange jewelry heist in

Kentucky. Enjoy!

And please continue to end your comments to nTheLoupe@jtv.com. We ove hearing from you!

Carrie Fox Editor in Chief

n this issue: A Study of Chrome:

art TwoRecord-Breaking

urseeridot: Granddaddyf Gems

Meet a JTV CollectorGIA Looks atTurquoiseWhat is Wassonite?Gemstone Spotlight

wallowing the HeistTrivia & Gem Puzzler

A Study of Chrome: Part Twoby Cara Williams, Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain

Since chromium occurs as a trace element, its concentr ation in gems can vary, allowingfor a range of saturations and color variations. Ruby, that king of gems, would not beruby without chromium. Because it is the mineral corundum, in its pure state, ruby iscolorless white sapphire. Only when it contains chromiumand enough chromium tocause red, rather than the less-saturated pinkdoes it become ruby. (Most rubies needto contain only one to three percent of the element in order to appear red. Chromium ia powerful chromophore.)

Ruby and pink sapphire are technically thesame gemstone with slight variations inchromium. Few other gems change namesupon a change in color concentrationas these two do. The dividing line haslong been a contentious issue amonggemologists, labs, appraisers, and gem

dealers. While deep reds and pastel pinksare rarely disputed, there is a broad r ange inbetween where labeling has varied over thegenerations, depending on: the part of theworld you are in, lighting conditions whenthe gem is viewed, secondary colors such asorange or purple tones, current sources andthe colors they can produc e, and, of course,whether one is buying or sel ling. Some ruby aficionados like a crayon red, while someprefer a bit of pomegranate pink that can make the stone appear brighter. The taste anopinions of the buyer are the final word. Beauty really is in the eye of the beholder.

Red spinel is akin to ruby in lots of ways. In addition to being found in many of the saplaces, its most-prized color is caused by traces of chromium. The red of spinel canrange from glowing flame or cherry reds to pastel pinks to deep reds that can resemblesome garnets. As most red garnets are colored by iron rather than chromium, a quick

test using an ultraviolet or black light can often be performed todistinguish these stones. Chromium usually reacts to ultravioletlight by glowing red. When viewed under dark lighting conditionthis can be a beautiful effect to observe. This red glow is knownas fluorescence , and it is a good indicator of the presence ofchromiumbut not always proof.

Anthill garnet i s one of the more fascinating var ieties of the

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In the Loupe

Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue2

Worlds Most Valuable Purseby Carrie Fox, Editor in Chief

The Mouawad 1001 Nights Diamond Purse is designed tomesmerize with its lavish attention to detail and elaborateworkmanship, said Pascal Mouawad, co-guardian of theglobally-renown House of Mouawad, in a 2011 press release.

And hes right! It does not disappoint! With a value of $3.8million, this breathtaking creation received official certificationfrom the Guinness World Records as the most valuablehandbag in the world.

Mouawad says theirinspiration wastaken from one ofthe worlds mostepic tales, referring,of course, to1001

Arabian Nigh ts thefamous collectionof stories involvingromance, fantasy,and intrigue.

Handcrafted from 18kt gold,the heart-shaped purse incorporates4,517 yellow, pink, and colorlessdiamonds. The total weight in gems is381.92 carats. Building this incrediblemasterpiece required 10 highly-skilledcraftsmen to work 8,800 hours over aperiod of four months.

Fred Mouawad, co-guardian of theHouse of Mouawad, told reporters,This breathtaking creation is a uniquemasterpiece. Not only is it one of akind, but it is also the worlds most

valuable,intensifyingits power toenchant thosewho have theprivilege ofwearing it.

Chrome cont...garnet family. Not only does it have aunique moniker due to its unusual mining

circumstances, but it also containschromium. Chromium prefers certaintypes of light. Daylight and fluorescentlight are not its favorites. But if it is putunder a traditional incandescent bulb orin candlelight, you will see it glow warmlyas it basks in its preferred environment,radiating a warm, ruby-red color. Thisboost of color from the chromiu m makesanthill garnet the purest of the red shades

of garnetand the most ruby-like. Unlikeruby, red spinel, and many chromium-colored gems, though, anthill garnet doesnot fluoresce. This is because it is alsocolored by iron, which has the ability tomask some of the color and light effects

of chromium. (Stones with sufficientiron will not fluoresce or appear red inthe Chelsea filter, even though theycontain chromium.) Enough iron willprevent these reactions enti rely, buta small amount will just minimize theeffect. Iron might be seen as chromiumsnemesis in some instancesat leastwhen it comes to color.

Hopefully, this has provided a goodunderstanding of the part chromiumplays in the coloring of some beautifulred gems. Exploring the elements rolein green gems is just around the cornerin Septembers issue.

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Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue 3

Peridot: a Granddaddy of Gemsby Jerry Sisk, G.G. & JTV Co-Founder

It probably comes as no surprise that I am highlighting peridot inthis months article. After all, it is the traditional birthstone for August. Although not as well known as emer ald, ruby, and sapphire,peridot has had a strong following throughout history. This beautifullime- to olive-green gemstone has been cherished and prized throughout the world, and ithas a pedigree that is quite impressive. In my opinion, peridot is a truegranddaddy of gems.

Why a granddaddy? When you consider that the age of most gems is gauged in centuriesor decades, peridot truly stands out. Some of the earliest references date back to ancientEgypt, which places peridot in the realm of millennia.

Where was the first notable discovery of this gem? It was on a barren, desolate island in

the Red Sea, presently known as Zabargad. The name has changed many times over thecenturies, but the earliest designation, Serpent Isle, gives some insight into one of the many challenges faced the first miners. Eventually, all the poisonous, slithering squamates were eliminated, but many other obstaclesremained. Conditions were harsh, and every basic necessity of life and mining had to be transported greatdistances to reach this remote and inhospitable mote of land.

It did not take long for the beauty of peridot to reach the eye of the aristocracy. It became so important thatthe ancient Egyptians considered peridot the gemstone of the pharaohs. Its signature color, a combination ofgreen and yellow, had special spiritual significance. The green was associated with Isis, goddess of nature, anthe yellow, with Ra, god of the sun. Legend has it that peridot was a favorite of Cleopatra and that many of themeralds in her royal treasury were actually peridots in disguise. It would seem that peridotsnot diamonds

were a girls best friend .If you roll f orward a few centuries and shift to Europe, peridot makes another big impression. After many fothe Holy Land, crusaders, either by conquest or trade, returned with many valuable gemstones, peridot includThe rich color of peridot was well received, and these gems quickly rose in popularity. Many of these stones probably mistaken for emerald since gemology, as a science, had not yet developed.

The popularity of peridot was so gr eat that many of these gems made it into various crown jewels, as well asecclesiastical decorations and ornamentation. A good example of the latter is theShrine of the Three Kings in

Cologne, France. This reliquary contains an incredible number of jewels, three of whichexceptionally large peridots. However, the influence of peridot did not stop with Europ

If you prefer opulence in the extreme, travel to the far eastern portion of Europe borderon Asia. The Topkapi Palace Museum of Istanbul, Turkey, contains a truly amazing goldthrone. The Ottoman Sultans, like the royalty of Europe, favored peridots and included 900 of the attractive gems in the thrones constructionsome of exceptional size.

For the jewelry lovers in our group, I suggest looking at piecesfrom the latter portion of the Victorian age, when styles andaesthetics favored peridot. The Art Nouveau period, which gainedmomentum in the 1890s and continued into the mid-1910s, alsofavored peridot. It became a dominant gem of that movement.Many beautifully-flowing jewelry designs highlighted peridotand were often accented with natural pearls, another mainstayof the period.

. . .continued on page 6

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Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue4

Meet a JTV CollectorGemstones for Pl easure or Treasure?

by Paul Perone, Guest Author

Youre buying gemstones. Congratulati ons! Beautiful, arentthey? Many of us start purchasing stones because of a certaincolor or type, or we possibly have ideas about what to makewith them. Some of us even get led into new careers.I, personally, was caught when, as a youn g boy, I first noticed

those twinkles as I walked by a jewelry store window.

So, are you buying gems for their beauty and the pleasureof having them in view, or are you buying for other reasons?It starts harmlessly enough, but then, the gems can reallydraw you in. (One of my d aughters-in-law, for example, isreally drawn to gemstones for their healing powersthemetaphysical side benefits they offer.)

As you continue to purchase gems, youll start to get more stones of that favoritecolor, and the sizes will get bigger. And as you learn more, youll get into betterquality and also more expensive gems. (In fact, as your gem interest grows, you mayhave to choose more carefully as new stones are introduced.) Your education aboutthe science of the stones will build to include mineral and chemical compositions,the geographic source locations of your beauties, overall availability and demand,and much more. Youll even begin to notice what others wear and how they mix andmatch for their own personal look.

Now, youll know youve crossed over to become an actual collector (as opposed toan enthusiast of a casual hobby) when you start buying wardrobe pieces to go withyour gems and jewelry. Yes, thats happened in our house!

As you collect, your ideas expan d and may possib ly include a wealth effe ct usingstones. Thats when your collecting changes direction. Because some gems aremore valuable than others, your purchases may be considered as a way to exchangecurrency for an asset that hopefully holds value and is something you can pass alongto others in your fam ily.

Your knowledge will by now h ave you consi dering the color, clarity, cut, and caratweight of gems that will make it into your collection. And as you pay more formust- have treasur es like emerald, ruby, sapphire, tanzanite, and imperial topaz,youll add a new dimension to your group of stones. Not only will you own piecesof time and earth history youll also enjoy some rarity and beauty that will giveyou years of pleasure.

And there are other bonuses to collecting as well. You can chat with fellowcollectors or attend shows in your area. You might also take classes related toyour gemstones. All of these can multiply the pleasure your stones and yourknowledge give you.

So wherever you are on the collecting path, whether its for pleasure or treasure,theres always more gemstone fun ahead!

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In the Loupe

Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue 5

Turquoise an Ancient Gem with Modern Panacheby the Gemological Institute of America

Turquoise is one of the worlds most ancient gemstones.

Archaeological excavations have revealed that Egyptian royaltywore turquoise jewelry as early as 5500 B.C. Chinese artisanswere carving it more than 3,000 years ago. Native Americantribes have worn turquoise as a ceremonial gem and adornedtheir jewelr y and amulets with it for thousands of y ears. Yet,this appealing bluish gem maintains its charm, even today, asa favored accessory worldwide. Celebrities including Cher,Jennifer Lopez , Macy Gray, Jennifer Love Hewitt, and Lenn yKravitz have all been spotted wearing this timeless jewel.

GIAs world-renowned education teaches that turquoise most

likely first arrived in Europe around the thirteenth century fromTurkish sources. Deriving its name from the French expressionPierre tourques , or Turkish stone , turquoise is mined worldwide,including i n Egypt, China, and the U.S. Turquoise is the p resent-day Decemberbirthstone and is designated as the 11th wedding anniversary gift.

The Egyptians believed that turquoise possessed magical properties in that it couldthwart misfortune and heal a variety of ailments. The national gem of Tibet, turquoisehas long been considered to bestow health and good luck. The Apaches thought thatturquoise attached to a bow or firearm increased the accuracy of a hunter or warrior.

The gems color ranges from light to medium blue or greenish-blue and is usuallyopaque. Spiderweb turquoisea popular variationdisplays veins of matrix (its hostrock) in web-like patterns. Persian (Iranian) turquoise is considered the finest qualityand also the most expensive, and it exhibits an intense light to medium blue, typicallywith no matrix. It has the ability to take on a glossy polish. Other turquoise varietiesinclude American, Mexican, Egyptian, and Chinese.

Large turquoise stones are common; however, the gem is also plentiful in a widerange of sizes and is often used for b eads, cabochons, carvings, and inlays. Trendy

fashion designers have more recently sewn it into clothing andbejeweled purses wi th it. Turquoises popularity has varied

throughout time. Currentl y, it is a hot item not onl y for Hollywooddivas, but it is also universally liked because of its commercialabundance. Its most enduring appeal remains in the AmericanSouthwest and among those who are captivated by that regionsmystery and romance, as well as by its blue skies, reminiscentof turqu oises color.

GIAs gem experts say turquoise is typically enhanced beforeit reaches the market, and special care should be taken tomaintain its vitali ty. When cleaning, GIA recommen ds avoidingacetone-like solvents. Additionally, perspiration, skin oils,

cosmetics, and other chemicals may turn a blue turquoise togreen, so avoid prolonged exposure.

Copyright 2010 Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved.

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Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

What isWassonite?NASA and co-researchers from theUnited States, SouthKorea, and Japanhave discovered a newmineral, which wasnamed Wassonite afterUniversity of Californiaprofessor John T.Wasson. The findinghas been approvedby the International

Mineralogical Assoc.Wassonite is amineral formed fromonly two elements,sulfur and titanium,yet it possessesa unique crystalstructure that hasnot been previouslyobserved in nature,

said NASA spacescientist KeikoNakamura-Messenger.

Interestingly, themineral was buriedwithin a meteoriterecovered from Antarctica in 1969.(That year, researchersfound nine meteoriteswhile exploring a blueice field in the YamatoMountains, which ledto numerous follow-up searches andthe recovery of over40,000 specimens.)NASA believes it is4.5 billion years oldand originally part

of an asteroid thatorbited betweenMars and Jupiter.

GemstoneSpotlight:

QuartzWhen you read about diamond buying,inclusions are referred to as negativeattributes that drop value and quality.However, that definitely does not applyto all gems. Some varieties form withfascinating inclusions that enhanceuniqueness, desire, and beauty.Several members of the quartz familyfit into this category. Lets take a look at two examples.

StrawberryQuartzRed hematiteinclusions inthis stonegive its bodya pinkishappearance,

earning thegem its name.In real ity, thebase body coloris cle ar.

RutilatedQuartzThis stone ischaracterizedby long needlesthat are formedby the mineralrutile. Theseintriguinginclusions growin a variety ofcolors including

gold, red,brown, green,and black.

Peridot cont...Historically, Myanmar (Burma) has beena significant source of peridot, but many

others exist today. If you are a collector,you can purchase peridot from Arizonaand New Mexico in the U.S. It can evenbe found in the black sands of Hawaii.The stone can also be located in moreexotic and remote regions of the world.Fine gemstones are coming out of China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Brazil, Australia,and Kenya.

In my opinion, the most exotic peridotcomes to us frompallisites . Pallisitesare meteorites that date back to the

formation of our solar system, and these

amazing travelers are composed of ironand peridot. As it turns out, some of theseextraterrestrial crystals are large enoughto be faceted. I consider these to be theultimate prize for serious gem collectors.

Whether you are a gem collector, designer,or jewelry hobbyist, JTV offers a widerange of peridots to satisfy the needs anddesires of our entire viewing audience.Join us this month as we bring the beauty

and majesty of peridot to you live fromJewelry Television.

Backlighting sets fire to amber inclusions of olivinein meteorite, San Diego, California (Photo byJonathan S. Blair/National Geographic/Getty Images)

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JerrysTriviaChallenge1) Gems inwhich crystalsystem arenot doublyrefractive?a. Orthorhombicb. Cubicc. Tetragonald. Hexagonal

2) Peridotfalls into whichcrystal system?a. Orthorhombicb. Cubicc. Tetragonald. Hexagonal

3) Which of thefollowing is nota mineral?a. Fluoriteb. Unakitec. Elbaited. Quartz

Check back nextmonth to see if youanswered correctly!

Swallowing the Heistby Carrie Fox, Editor in Chief

This is a story of true desperation!Last mo nth, a Richmond, KY, womanwas arrested for participating in a jewelryheist and then swallowing the evidence.

An x-ray prove d the polices case.Here are the details:

On July 5th, employees of The Castle,a jewelry store in Richmond, reportedthat a couple had entered their store toshop for engagement rings. After lookingheavily at a spe cific 1.5ctw ring, thecouple apparently switched it out for amuch cheaper style they had also beenexamining. After purchasing what shouldhave been the less valuable version, staffrecognized the con and confronted thepair, who immediately ran out o f the store.

An investigation led po lice to the 30-year-old woman that same d ay, and she wastaken in on a warrant for theft by unlawful

taking. Once in custody, authoritieslearned their suspect had apparentlyswallowed the ring at some point. Asubsequent x-ray performed at RegionalMedical Center confirmed it was true.

Wow all of that for a ring price dunder $3,500! The woman now faces acharge of receiving stolen property under$10,000. Additionally, I believe thereare some embarrassing conversations

in her future.When this article was written , the ringhad not yet been recovered. NicoleLauhon, general manager of The Castle,said, I guess its a waiting game. Peoplehave tried making the switch in a lotof high-end jewelry stores. This is thefirst time it has happened to me. Nottoo surprisingly, she also said it was thefirst time she had encountered someone

ingesting jewelry as part of a theft!

100 th Anniversaryof Morganite

Morganite celebrates i ts 100thanniversary this year! Thelovely and feminine gemstonewas discovered in Madagascarin 1911. Originally coined pink

beryl , it was later named in honorof the late J.P. Morgan. Sinceits discovery, morganite hasbecome a favorite among gemconnoisseurs, though it remainsrelatively unknown in standardretail circles.

7

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Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

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If you have questions, email theeditor at InTheLoupe@jtv.comor call customer service at(800) 550-8393.

EDITORIALEditor in Chief:Carr ie Fox

Copy Editor:Patty Reynolds

Contributor:Jerry Sisk

Guest Authors:

Paul Perone Cara Will iams

CREATIVE

Lead Design:Russ Hamilton

Online Design:Jos Salas

Photography:Getty Images Mouawad JTV archives Keith Harris Russ Hamilton

Miss an Edition ofIn the Loupe? To read previous editions of In the Loupe ,go to jtv.com/InTheLoupe. There, you will findan archive of back issues beginning with ourfirst release in April 2010.

Shop on the Go!JTV has made it even easier to shop withthe release of our new mobile website andmobile app. On your mobile device, go to

jtv.com/mobile, where you can shop our en tireselection of products and even watch the liveshows. You can also downlo ad the new JTV ap p

free at iTunes App Store and Android market.

ComingSoon!

Aug 12-14:Chrome

Diopside Aug 15-17:Gem Vue

Anniversary

Aug 17-21:Gem Days

Aug 27 & 28:Customer

AppreciationDays

10001 Kingston PikeKnoxville, TN 37922

Time-dated material:Postmaster, please deliver

July 19 - 21, 2010

Prst StdU.S. Postage

PAIDPermit #309

Knoxville, TN

Answers to JulysTrivia & Puz zler

1) Which of thesediamonds is not afancy color?d. Star of Africa

2) Which is the worldsheaviest diamond?a. Golden Jubilee

3) Which wavelengthof light bends the mostwhen entering a gem?b. Violet 4) Which wavelengthof light bends the leastwhen entering a gem?c. Red

Jerrys Gemstone Puzzler

Down

1 Spessartite or pyrope2 Refractive Index,

abbrev.3 Big 3 gems - 1st letters4 Fine, thin inclusions5 Type of jade - plural6 Important gem property7 River pearl this state

ge m8 States North & South

__ _12 2 types of UV light

waves, abbrev.

13 Buy gems with thesein China16 Benitoite this state gem19 May, July, & Jan

birthstones - 1st letters22 Important to gem

polishing wheels24 Titanite older name

for this gem26 Slang term for each

ray of star gem28 Part of the earth or

an oyster30 Sunstone this state gem31 Gold mineral to state

in 16 Down

32 Durable jewelry metal -symbol34 Black, dark, & white

types of these35 Round, oval, or

square in gems38 SG, RI, & OC gem

types of this40 Major element in

ruby - symbol43 Buy gems with Krone

here, abbrev.46 Diamond this state gem47 Important element in

emerald & aqua48 Rose quartz this

state mineral50 Galena this northern

state mineral

Across

1 Chrome diopside color5 1st 6 letters of

Peace Garden State9 Aeolian weathering due

to this10 Salem limestone this

state stone11 Some gems look this way14 Gold this state mineral15 Gold this state mineral,

to o17 Fairburn agate this

state gem

18 Some call these colors21 Ormer or ___ shell23 Of beryl gems, bixbite

is this25 Stripping off an

outer layer27 No state rock, gem,

or mineral here28 Gems measured in

this unit29 Jeweler does this to gems30 Flint this state gem31 Jewelry can be die

struck or this33 Jan & May birthstones -

1st letters34 Native copper, gold,

& silver36 Peridot & Topaz months -

1st letters37 Star garnet this state gem39 Amber a form of this41 Smoky quartz this

state gem42 Feb & April birthstones -

1st letters44 Apatite this state gem45 Tanzanite fo und here,

abbrev.46 Feldspar species - plural49 Ultraviolet SW & this

51 Rare earth element52 Species of feldspar

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9 10

11 12 13 14

15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27

28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35

36 37 38 39 40 41

42 43 44 45

46 47 48 49 50

51 52

D I A M O N D M A R SE L U V I A L A L IN L D A N T LD I R T Y B M A R KR A I N G R A I N YI C M G D DT R E M O L A E N P

E E B A M G M ES H A D E S A S E A

A U S S S T RC R O S S M E T A L

O D R A T S N A I L S