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tre bicchieri MONTHLY NEWS FOR WINE PROFESSIONALS INTERNATIONAL VINITALY: SAVE THE DATE pag.11 ITALIAN BOUTIQUE WINERIES IN A NUTSHELL PAIRING: CHOCOLATE EGGS AND RED WINE pag.9 Is this a bull market? MONTEPULCIANO: THE RED GOLD OF ABRUZZO pag.4 PROWEIN ALLES GUT! pag.2 #ProWein #Vinitaly pag.12 photo credits: Messe Duesseldorf Prowein
Transcript
Page 1: Is this a bull market? · the guide. At the end of the tasting, Giuseppe Saitta, a ... entrance ticket entitles you to free travel on all public ... Pescara and Teramo follow. The

trebicchierimonthly news for wine professionals

international

VINITALY:SAVE THE DATE

pag.11

ITALIAN BOUTIQUEWINERIES IN A NUTSHELL

PAIRING: CHOCOLATE EGGSAND RED WINE

pag.9

Is this abull market?

MONTEPULCIANO:THE RED GOLD OF ABRUZZO

pag.4

PROWEINALLES GUT!

pag.2

#ProWein#Vinitaly

pag.12

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Now that the tastiNg is over, let’s take a look at who showed up: there were importers and journalists from Holland,

Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Russia, United States, Japan, Brazil, and France. The Tre Bicchieri event of Düsseldorf reflected the character that makes ProWein unique, its truly international identity, a showcase of the entire wine world. The tasting, a project of the Messe-Düsseldorf fair organization and Gambero Rosso working together, changed location and approach. The day before the Prowein fair opened, 900 professionals met at Botschaft, the ex- American Consulate overlooking the Rhine, for an event that is already becoming a classic after only three years. With more than 120 wineries present in a particularly friendly atmosphere, each was anxious to taste the production of its neighbor and exchange information about importers. One producer from Emilia Romagna, after a terrible flood that crippled her winery, re-launched her firm. Angela Sini of Cantina della Volta said, “We have just reopened our offices and made a number of interesting contacts. We are looking for wine bars and wine shops in addition to importers. Putting together small buyers, we can accomplish our goal.” Her Lambrusco of Sorbara Rimosso was one of the most talked about new labels in the room.

“the DüsselDorf eveNt is a must,” saiD giorgio Pasanisi, export manager of Umani Ronchi. “Many importers from Northern Europe, but especially from Russia, have started to come here and skip

Vinitaly”. Laura Gatti and her brother Matteo from Ferghettina drove the whole night to arrive in time for the tasting. A press conference for the presentation of the German edition of Vini d’Italia 2014 preceded the Tre Bicchieri event. “Every year journalists ask us what’s new. Nothing is new. Or a better answer is, what’s always new is our method - tasting and re-tasting Italian production (40,000 wines), a procedure that has resulted in our publishing this volume for the 27th time,” commented Eleonora Guerini, curator of the guide. At the end of the tasting, Giuseppe Saitta, a well-known restaurateur in North Rhine-Westphalia, laid out a generous buffet of Italian products.

after the tre Bicchieri eveNt came ProweiN. Italy was still center stage. “Italy continues to grow. This year there are 1,200 participating companies, more than any other country, accounting for more than a quarter of all our exhibitors, followed by France, Germany, and Spain,” said Hans Werner Reinhard, Deputy Managing Director of Messe Düsseldorf . “We invest a great deal to guarantee our appeal abroad. About 43% of our visitors and more than 82% of our producers are foreign. It has been like this since our first edition in 1994.”

moviNg iNto the thirD PavilioN, the oNe DeDicateD to Italy, we noticed a sharp change from previous years: a decrease in stands for individual importers and an increase in regional groups and consortiums such as Trentino, Puglia, Umbria, and a cohort of small producers from Valtellina here for the first

ProWein 2014:Alles Gut!

TASTING

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

2

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comte De m 2009Chateau Kefraya

We are in the central area of the Bekaa valley, at the foot of Mount Lebanon: here we find Chateau Kefraya, surrounded by a single body of vineyards at 1000 meters above sea level. The wine in question, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz with the addition of Mourvedre, amazed us. It has a rigorous taste and texture, crisp red fruit and a floral scent; on the palate it has elegant, precise rhythm with a long and relaxed finish. Not imported into Italy.

alfrocheiro 2011Quinta da Pellada

We always learn something from Portuguese producers, who are able to play with a wealth of inexhaustible native varieties. For the first time, we taste a Alfrocheiro, also nicknamed Tint bastardinhas or Albarinho negro. It comes from very old vines and displays especially intense color; on the palate, it is slim and sleek, with hints of spices and black, plump, mouth-filling fruit. Very refreshing on the finish. Alvaro Castro, owner of the company, asserts on the label, “Foram produzidas 810 garrafas” (810 bottles produced). We have two in our office. This, too, alas, is not available in Italy.

kalkofeN gewächs 2012riesliNg grosses

Von Basserman Jordan

We close with one of the biggest and greatest Rieslings tasted in Hall 6, the one reserved for German wines. We are in the Pfalz, Kalkofen translated sounds like: chalk oven. The wine, still very young, opens slowly and then iodine tones on the palate reveal an overwhelming depth of taste, its rhythm made up of sensations of minerals and acidity. Very good now; who knows how it will be in 10 years? Imported by Ceretto.

time. What happens abroad does not happen at home : the Italian wine world joins hands, presents a united front. Those who were competitors become allies with whom to share a project.

Now that the fair is over, it is clear that ProweiN continues to grow. The final data released is online: 48,000 trade visitors came from 47 countries, an increase of 7% compared to 2013. “We doubled the number of visitors from China and Hong

Kong, partly due to feedback from ProWein China organized for the first time in Shanghai last November,” said Reinhard. Meanwhile, according to initial information, in the next edition, scheduled for March 15 to 17, 2015, Italy will occupy a second pavilion, given the heavy demand. Finally, a remark about the logistic aspects, the pride of this fair: the entrance ticket entitles you to free travel on all public transportation, including trains. Moving around is easy and inexpensive.

TASTING 3

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the reD golD of this regioN is a graPe, a wine grape, of course. It grows in a mid-sized, conic-cylindrical, compact cluster,

almost always with one or two wings. The berry is also mid-sized, of a more or less oval shape. The crucial element is the skin, which is thick, textured, rich in bloom and has an intense black-violet color. The skin is the treasure chest that encloses the wine’s fortunes. The grape’s name is also its fortune and winning number, one of the best potential brands in the country, because, as rarely happens (Brunello di Montalcino is just about the only comparable example), the traditional name of the variety coincides with the name of the territory and the region in which the grape has grown for centuries. So the wine goes around the world labeled with both the variety’s name and its region. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has become a brand and a resource, in a trend of growing importance and monetary value.

the aBruzzo has iN all 32,725 hectares of cultivated vineyard, according to data from 2012. On a national level, it accounts for 6% of the product, which places it among the top five regions of Italy in this sector. The most important of the four provinces that lead in this area is Chieti, contributing over 80%. Pescara and Teramo follow. The smallest, but not the least in terms of quality, is the mountainous, high-altitude, challenging area of L’Aquila, which

contributes barely 1.5% of Abruzzo’s total vineyard capacity. The constant throughout these zones, though, is the predominance of the Montepulciano grape, which accounts for close to 60% of the total – almost 19,000 hectares, exactly 57% of the entire region’s vineyard plantings. There are, of course, other red grape varieties grown in the region, including some that are traditional, such as Sangiovese (about a thousand hectares, or 2.5% of the total), and some that are so-called international types (Merlot, 500 hectares, Cabernet Sauvignon 280 hectares) which were planted widely in the years – the end of the eighties, all of the nineties – when there was a general shift towards the ‘new Italian wine’ and away from the local varieties.

three treNDs – comPetitive coNceNtratioN, changes of ownership and abandonment of cultivated land – dramatically reduced the number of vineyard hectares by 45% in less than fifteen years. Nonetheless, the vast expanses of Montepulciano vines, and in general, the vines of Abruzzo, are still planted in small parcels and managed by a myriad of small farmers who cultivate their own land. There are very few growers – a little more than 3% – that have more than fifty hectares of vineyard from which to make wine. Three-fifth of the total (18,600) are properties of under five hectares. Only one-eighth are over 20 hectares. So it’s not surprising,

MontepulcianoThe RED GOLD of Abruzzo

by Ugo De Luca

©Fotolia

SPECIAL 4

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giveN the moDest size of the wiNeries, that planting systems are prevalently the traditional ones. The so-called tendone abruzzese, a system with a footprint of 2.5 meters x 2.5 meters, yields 1,600 plants per hectare, very few in contrast to the opposite, modern approach of high density planting. Tendone abruzzese planting accounts for about 80% of the total. In new plantings, which are usually carried out by new wineries with new entrepreneurs who came mostly between 1990 and 2005, the trellis system is more likely to be vine rows in various versions, with 3,000-4,000 vines planted per hectare, reaching as many as 10,000 vines per hectare in more extreme cases. But after interviewing many enologists, it became clear that the old, traditional peasant planting system is now being re-evaluated, after long being considered obsolete and a possible handicap for the Abruzzo region and its reigning grape variety. The effects of climate change, the notably hotter and drier weather, has shown the advantages that the tendone abruzzese canopy offers in protecting the grape clusters from drought stress and heat. The vineyard utilizes its water better, thanks to the shade it provides to grapes and soil. Certainly, modern planting systems have their unquestionable and well-known advantages, but if managed properly, and not exploited unduly, the old-fashioned pergola system has demonstrated its virtues.

the average quality of moNtePulciaNo D’aBruzzo wine has improved constantly in recent years. In the context of an overall renaissance of the national wine sector, this wine has changed dramatically both objectively and in the way it is viewed by the

world. There are two sides to this story. On one hand the attention and ratings of specialized press have appreciated the difference, and on the other hand, the market has revised its judgments.

oNe of the telliNg iNDicators of the treND is the amount of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine that was once sold in bulk and is now sold bottled. Another marker of improved quality is the increase in the bottles indicated as DO, (denominazione d’origine) rather than as generic table wines. The trend is reflected in total regional wine production, which saw the higher quality DO production triple between 1990-91 and 2010-11. (That is, over twenty years.) Montepulciano accounts for over 820,000 hectoliters per year of this production in an average year, that is, about two-thirds. Another 60,000 hectoliters of DOC Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wine should be added to this quantity, since the grape and the variety are the same, although the selection process in the vineyards and the vinification methods are different in order to produce a rosé product.

the leaDer iN the sector is moNtePulciaNo d’Abruzzo, which produces 800,000 hectoliters annually, or a bit under 80% of the total quality wine production in the region, a number which has been on the rise in the last few years. According to the Valoritalia agency which certified quantities at the time, Montepulciano DOC (of various years) bottled in 2011 amounted to 881,000 hectoliters.

two other DeNomiNatioNs liNkeD to the Montepulciano family are much smaller and more

SPECIAL 5

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receNt, But of great imPortaNce: oNe, Docg Colline Termane, an exclusively red denomination, is now ten years old, with 7,000 hectoliters annually produced. By regulation, this DOCG must consist of 80% Montepulciano grapes, but usually is 100%. The other denomination, only three years old and accounting for 2,500 hectoliters, is DOC Tullum, which grows in the zone of Tollo and is dominated by the large cooperative winery which bears the same name as the town. Viticulture is the dominating economic activity in this area. In Tullum also, Montepulciano grapes must account for 90%, but usually amount to 100%.

the coNsortiums that regulate these two denominations, together with the umbrella Consorzio dei Vini d’Abruzzo, are involved in a common strategy of image and communication about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Their goal is to promote further and more definitive repositioning of the wine in the Italian consumer’s imagination and in the internal market in general, especially in terms of the extraordinary value for money that this great Abruzzese wine offers. The process has already begun, in Italy and abroad, as data relative to export clearly show, and the numbers also reflect the markedly increased overall quality of the wine. It should be pointed out, though, that despite the number of producers who are now bottling their wine rather than selling it in bulk, unbottled Abruzzese wine still accounts for 55% of production. While the new denominations have fought for and won the right to bottle within the region (the new DOC Cerasuolo also made this choice), about half of Montepulciano is bottled outside the region, which means that it is no longer in the hands of those who are fighting to intervene and protect the quality of this deserving wine.

©Fotolia

how to get thereBy car: driving around the abruzzo is made easy by a ring of highways and superhighways: E80 (a25) that goes from rome to Pescara passing by Teramo and chieti; a24 from rome to Giulianova passing by L’aquila; on the coast, the two main roads are connected by the abruzzese section of the adriatica (a14-E55). From Milan: a1 and then a14.By plane: from rome, Milan and from the principal regional cities, flights are to Pescara with alitalia. By train: Frecciabianca from Torino, Milan, Venice, Bari, Taranto, Lecce; Intercity from Bologna, Bari, Taranto, Lecce; IntercityNotte from Milan, Torino, Lecce; Treni regionali Veloci from Milan; regional trains from ancona, Pesaro, San Benedetto del Tronto, Giulianova, Teramo, Lanciano, Vasto-S.Salvo, Termoli, Sulmona, avezzano, roma Tiburtina, Pescara Porta Nuova, Scafa, campobasso, rimini, roma Termini.

where to eat and drinkl’aNgolo D’aBruzzo | carsoli (aq) | P.zza a. moro, 8 tel. 0863 997429 | www.laNgoloDiaBruzzo.it| eloDia | l’aquila | loc. camarDa | via valle PerchiaNa tel. 0862 606830 www.eloDia.it | eNoteca osteria ceNtrale | teramo | c.so cerulli irelli, 26 tel. 0861 243633 | locaNDa maNthoNé | Pescara | c.so maNthoNé, 58tel.085 4549034 | www.locaNDamaNthoNe.it | villa maiella | guarDiagrele (ch) | loc. villa maiella, 30 tel. 0871 809319 | www.villamaiella.it la grotta Dei raselli | guarDiagrele (ch) loc. comiNo | via raselli, 146 | tel. 0871 808292 www.lagrottaDeiraselli.it |la BaNDiera | civitella casaNova (Pe) | c.Da PastiNi, 4 tel. 085 845219 | www.laBaNDiera.it esPrì | coloNNella (te) | P.zza gariBalDi | tel. 0861 700013 | zuNica 1880 | civitella Del troNto (te) | P.zza f. PePe, 14tel. 0861 91319 | www.hotelzuNica.it | il viNo Di suP | avezzaNo (aq) | via gariBalDi, 72 tel. 0863 411104 | la locaNDa Del PomPa | camPli (te) | s.s. 81 tel. 0861 569011 | www.lalocaNDaDelPomPa.it l’arca | alBa aDriatica (te) | v.le g. mazziNi, 109 tel. 0861 714647 | www.arcaristoraNte.it

where to stayfeDerico ii ****| l’aquila | www.hotelfeDericosecoNDo.it saN michele *** | l’aquila | www.stmichelehotel.it hotel aBruzzi *** | teramo | tel. 0861 241043 victoria **** | Pescara | www.victoriaPescara.com

alBa *** | Pescara | www.hotelalBa.Pescara.it

iacoNe *** | chieti | www.hoteliacoNe.it

Nuovo alBergo *** | chieti | www.NuovoalBergo.it

SPECIAL 6

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On April 14, Abruzzo’s wine world visits London

for a unique event: 50 Abruzzese wineries will join

together to present their best wines. Gambero Rosso

and the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo will display

this remarkable enological panorama, an exceptional

opportunity to know and compare the vast riches of the

region’s top quality production.

The event will be held in the glorious Gibson Hall, facing

Bishopsgate, in the financial heart of the City. From the

region’s flagship wine Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the

second best-selling wine in Italy, to other great varieties

such as Montepulciano Cerasuolo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo,

and Pecorino, visitors will find an exciting range of

varieties and styles that demonstrate the complexity of

different territories and microclimates inside the region’s

boundaries, where vineyards touch the Adriatic, or

glaciers, or the natural reserves of the Majella and the

Gran Sasso. Few Italian regions can offer wines with such

attractive quality/price ratios, food-friendly wines that can

appear on the table every day. To showcase this aspect,

alongside a wide range of labels, the restaurant that has

become the ambassador of Abruzzese cuisine in London

will prepare delicious food for the occasion. Terra

Vergine, in Chelsea, will present a series of regional

dishes that over the centuries have perfectly paired with

local wines. It will be a true Festa dell’Abruzzo, but also

an opportunity to experience styles and variations within

the same denomination.Two master classes are scheduled,

led by Marco Sabellico, curator of the guide Vini d’Italia;

the first will be at 12:30, the second at 3:30 p.m.

Abruzzo Live in London

Monday, April 14, 2014

Tasting:1:30 Walkaround Tasting

Seminars*:12:00 noon 1st Masterclass3:00 pm 2nd Masterclass

Gipson Hall

Monday 14th April, 2014

AbruzzoLive in LondonGambero Rosso and Consorzio TutelaVini d’Abruzzo invite you to an exclusive tasting

Tasting:13:30 to 18:30Walkaround tasting

Masterclasses*:12:30 - 13:30 1st Masterclass15:30 - 16:30 2nd Masterclass

Gibson Hall

13 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 3B(Liverpool St and Bank tube stations)

RSVP [email protected]

Tel: 020 7387 0828

* pl

aces

to th

e se

min

ars a

re li

mite

d. R

eser

vatio

n re

quire

d.

presented by Marco Sabellico, editor of Vini D’italia Guide

Refreshments provided by Chelsea’s Terra Vergine Restaurant, specialising in Abruzzese food.

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AbruzzoLive in London

Agricosimo

Agriverde

AusoniA AziendA AgricolA

Az. Agr. cAmillo montori

Az. Agr. ciccio zAccAgnini srl

Az. Agr. FonteFico

Az. Agr. lA vinArte

AziendA AgricolA BArone cornAcchiA

AziendA AgricolA costAntini Antonio

AziendA AgricolA vAlle mArtello

AziendA mArrAmiero

AziendA nicolA di sipio

AziendA vinicolA torre zAmBrA

Bosco nestore

cAntinA colle moro

cAntinA migliAnico soc. coop. Agr.

cAntinA sAn lorenzo

cAntinA terzini

cAntinA tollo s.c.A.

cAsA vinicolA roxAn

cAsAl thAulero

cAsAlBordino

centorAme

chiArieri

chiusA grAnde

citrA vini

colle del sole

colleFrisio

colonnellA

contesA Az. Agr.

de Angelis corvi

dorA sArchese

Feudo Antico

il Feuduccio

lA cAscinA del colle

mArchesi de’ cordAno

mArgiottA cArlo

pepe orgAnic, BiodynAmic & vegAn Wines

tenutA ArABonA Az. AgricolA Bio

tenutA i FAuri

tenute BArone di vAlForte

torre dei BeAti

umAni ronchi

vAlori s.r.l.

www.agricosimo.it

www.agriverde.it

www.ausoniavini.it

www.montorivini.it

www.cantinazaccagnini.it

www.fontefico.it

www.lavinarte.it

www.baronecornacchia.it

www.costantinivini.it

www.vallemartello.it

www.marramiero.it

www.aziendanicoladisipio.com

www.torrezambra.it

www.nestorebosco.com

www.collemoro.it

www.cantinamiglianico.it

www.sanlorenzovini.com

www.cantinaterzini.it

www.cantinatollo.it

www.roxan.it

www.casalthaulero.it

www.vinicasalbordino.com

www.centorame.it

www.chiarieri.com

www.chiusagrande.com

www.citra.it

www.cantinacolledelsole.it

www.collefrisio.it

www.cantinacolonnella.it

www.contesa.it

www.deangeliscorvi.it

www.dorasarchese.it

www.feudoantico.it

www.ilfeuduccio.it

www.lacascinadelcolle.it

www.cordano.it

www.margiottavini.it

www.montepulcianodabruzzo.it | www.organicwines.it

www.tenutaarabona.it

www.tenutaifauri.it

www.baronedivalforte.it

www.torredeibeati.it

www.umanironchi.com

www.masciarellidistribuzione.it/valori

Participating Wineries

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9PAIRING

Primitivo Di maNDuria Dolce Naturale Primo amore 2007aCCademia dei raCemi PerVini

An intense, almost violet red color. On the nose, great aromatic complexity of raisins, spices and dried berries. Warm and soft in the mouth, both powerful but not invasive, thanks to its fine-grained tannins.

Pairing: 9The generous aromatic structure of the wine is enriched by the chocolate that also prolongs its stay on the palate. They progress together, with the softness of the chocolate emerging on the finish, as well as an unexpected, amazing balsamic note. Overall, harmonious, mouth-filling and exciting.

graham’s tawNy Port 10 years

Graham

Splendid brick color that moves sinuously in the glass, releasing precise sensations of dried fruit and toast, perfectly echoed on the palate, where the same sensations appear.

Pairing: 9A traditional, convincing pair. A long union on the palate where the sweet wine embraces the chocolate, bringing out the classic third flavor: candied fruit, oranges, cinnamon and a light smoky note that makes everything even more appealing. The percentage of dark chocolate is perfect for great aromatic length.

amaroNe Della valPolicella valPaNteNa villa arveDi 2010Bertani

The cool vintage year of this Valpolicella is evident. Very balanced and elegant with soft tannins and fruity notes that are not too exuberant: blackberry, cherry, with a touch of menthol and a dash of spices.

Pairing: 8½ Fine equilibrium between sweet and bitter, a pairing in which fruit sweetly appears, rendering the whole very harmonious. All flavors stay in the mouth, which, after having enjoyed the sensations for a long time, is left perfectly clean.

Easter eggswith red wine

by Giulia Sampognaro

fooD of the goDs. the term was iNveNteD By sweDish BotaNist carolus liNNaeus who, iN the 18th ceNtury, alreaDy uNDerstooD the

great ProPerties of the cocoa tree aND NameD it theoBroma (fooD of the goDs, iN greek) cacao.

iN toDay’s worlD, much DePeNDs oN the quality of the product chosen, but no matter which, we have to take into account a series of factors: the fat provided by the cocoa butter, but also the sweetness given by added sugar; the intense aromatic persistence, difficult to compensate for; the natural succulence; the tendency to bitterness due to tannins: the tendency to acidity due to processing. There’s also

the granular quality and any added spices to consider. It’s clear we need a glass of wine with strong, pronounced aromas and flavors, something that can stand up to the chocolate experience. It should be a soft, alcoholic wine with low tannin content. At least that’s the theory, but it needs to be proven on the field of battle, so we invited Walter Musco, a pastry chef, a one-time gallery owner. He brought his art to the chocolate eggs that he fashions in his Pasticceria Bompiani in Rome. For our tasting he delighted us with an egg made with 55% dark chocolate, French Valrhona chocolate from Ecuador. Its marked acidic notes perfectly suit the icing and the artisanal work Musco dedicates to contemporary artists.

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10

trebicchieriSunday, April 6from 11.30 to 16.30Sala Argento

A very complete tasting with over 400 Tre Bicchieri labels awarded in the Vini d’Italia 2014 guide. Vinitaly in a nutshell, the top labels in a single hall: a classic.RSVP [email protected]

Olio d’Italia 2014Sunday, April 6from 16.00 to 17.30Sala Salieri (SOL)

The first public appearance of the fourth edition of the country’s most complete publication about olive oil, the result of over 1,300 samples tasted. Besides, meetings and guided seminars to explore and taste the Guide’s Special Awards will be held.

Gambero Rosso Special Awarded WinesTuesday, April 8from 11,30 to 13,00Sala Orchidea – Palaexpo, Entrance A1 (level -1)

A guided tasting with the editors-in-chief of Vini d’Italia 2014 that will introduce you to all the special awarded wines, from the Red of the year, to the award for sustainable viticulture.

Gambero StandsPavilion 9, Stand C16During Vinitaly, the Gambero Rosso stand will carry all its publications: guides, books, magazines.

Vinitaly and the citySunday April 6 and Monday April 7, from 17 to 23.30Palazzo della Gran Guardia, Piazza Brà

On stage, the prizewinning Quality/price best buys from the Berebene 2014 guide, that is, the best Italian wines selling in shops for 10 euros and under.

Gambero Rossoevents at VinitalyVerona, 6-9 Aprile 2014

EN PRIMEUREVENTS

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11

Call a TAXIUNIONE RADIOTAXI VERONA - Tel. +39 045 532666

Where to Eat

Our choice in and around Verona. If you’re coming to Vinitaly, you’ll be happy to

know about these.

Osteria Sottoriva

Near Verona’s Piazza dei

Signori, Osteria Sottoriva is a

very special place. A few tables,

tranquil and relaxed atmosphere,

superb wine list with a large

selection of sparkling, natural,

biodynamic and organic wines.

Among the many specialties

are smoked carpaccio di cavallo

(horsemeat), meatballs, tripe,

polenta and gorgonzola. Don’t

skip dessert, but opt for apple

cake with dried fruit or ricotta

cake with berries and a tiny

glass of bittersweet chocolate

with cream and 100%

Arabica coffee.

Locanda Le Grazie

Curtatone (Mn) via Pio X, 2 – 46010

Our first

suggestion is a

traditional inn (locanda)

very near Verona, in

Curtatone in the province of

Mantua. Order local cured meats

(salumi), Gonzaga salad, pike in

sauce, but above all, wonderful

filled pasta, such as squash

tortelli. There’s a selection of

fish dishes and a vast wine cellar

with excellent labels and many

biodynamic wines, all at very

reasonable prices

Du De Copegalleria Pellicciai, 10 - 37121 Verona (Vr)

If you have a yen for pizza, we

suggest dinner at Du De Cope,

right near Piazza delle Erbe in

the center of Verona. You’ll find

exceptional pizza, thanks to a

selection of very high quality flours,

artfully worked dough and excellent

toppings. Order the pizza with

buffalo mozzarella,

basil, grana

padano cheese

and smoked

Sauris

guanciale

(cured pork

cheek). Pair

it with beer,

either on tap

or in bottles,

including craft

brands.

Vinitaly - Useful information

EN PRIMEUREVENTS

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what has BeeN the most coNtroversial elemeNt iN italiaN wiNemakiNg iN the last DecaDe? Who has placed environment at the top of the list of concerns, along with wine-food rapport? Where did the demand for a more immediate, less formal approach to wine come from? We wondered

about all these questions as we wandered around the stands at Vignaioli Naturali, an event organized in Rome by Tiziano Gallo. The first time was in 2009. There’s someone who pulls out a bottle of Montepulciano from 1983, others who hide samples of barrels and roughhewn designs for labels under their tables – winegrowers just starting off. It’s an artisan’s world. Here are some of our notes…

Italian Boutique Wineriesin a nutshell

TASTING

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

12

Bottles to empty in less than 5 minutes

schioPPettiNo 2012marCo sara

An entertaining wine. Entertaining because it works just like a smile: it makes the drinker feel lighter, more carefree. The color is noticeably pale, it’s easy to drink, the tone is spicy, delicate and well-targeted. It’s all simple, linear, well-made.

il ciNque 2012 Podere le BonCie

Here the choice is Morgante’s second wine, sangiovese with a little mammolo and colorino. An autumnal character, dark fruit but also remarkable vivacity. One of those reds that you would like to find in an inn – a little rustic, with tannins that make themselves felt and acidity with a kick. The first course hasn’t arrived yet, but we’ve drunk half a bottle already, trying to understand the wine.

moNtePulciaNo cerasuolo le ciNce 2012de fermo

A great drink. A Rosato with rhythm and tension, the fragrance of a freshly picked pomegranate, a floral touch, but also a richly flavored palate. Then, the long finish reveals a flash of class. Delicious, food-friendly. Among the best rosés tasted in the last few years.

Store in a cool, dry place

treBBiaNo D’aBruzzo 2010emidio PePe

Nervous. Emidio Pepe’s Trebbiano 2010 is a wine with overwhelming energy. It has thrust, flavor, gunpowder tones, then notes of iodine, but above all, it has that change of pace on the palate that makes us want to track it again and again, taste after taste. Besides energy, an extraordinary aromatic range. Promises a long, long life.

valtelliNa suP. sassella ultimi raggi 2006ar.Pe.Pe

Il Rosso di Valtellina 2011 would have gone straight to the top of our ratings: amazing drinkability, even dangerous. But we had the strength to move beyond it. These vineyards are Pellizzati’s highest, at an altitude of 600 meters. It is their only wine made with grapes partially dried on the vine. Technical expertise and precision: concentration but also verve and naturalness in the mouth. A background of bitter dried herbs accompanies the entire mouthful.To drink again.

PiNot Nero 2009dalzoCChio

A very original Pinot Nero with a taste profile that joins tension, but also fullness, mouth-filling fruit and a background of aromatic herbs. Long and reactive; on the finish, our lips tasted salty. Enchanting. At first impact, however, the 2010 version seemed less successful, slimmer and with slightly green tannins.

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Spirit of the month BEEFEATER Gin is a well-known spirit around the world. It is often consumed straight, but above

all, it is used in mixed drinks. Martini is undoubtedly the most famous cocktail, but Gin Lemon, Gin Tonic and Negroni are popular, along with many others. When, however, gin is

exceptionally good, when its quality is superb, drinking it straight allows one to capture every subtlety of taste and appreciate its fundamental nature. Beefeater is a brand that

has been known for over 100 years, thanks to unchanging quality, perfect alchemy that has outlasted time and fashions. Today master distiller Desmond Payne expertly heads production. This month we want to talk about Gin 24, a very special recipe, a

revolutionary and fascinating variation of the classical juniper spirit. Payne was in Japan, working. He wanted a gin tonic at the end of a hard day of

appointments and responsibilities, but in Japan, there was no tonic to be found. What were the others at the bar drinking? Soft drinks, but above all, green tea. Why not

try with green tea? After several tastings, Payne selected two, one Chinese and one Japanese, that were in perfect aromatic balance thanks to green tea’s low tannins and delicate flavor, balanced by the bitterness and pronounced flavor of the gin. The result

is a fresh, balsamic gin, vertical on the palate and soft on the finish.

13TASTING

Surprise, surprise

la Desirée 2008renaud Guettier

(domaine la GraPPerie)

Loire. In a blind tasting, we would have said Jura. This is a Chenin Blanc, in an oxidized style that ages on its lees for five full years in old barriques. Impact is not easy, with marked lactic notes that evolve towards tones of candied fruit and then iodine sensations. In the mouth, three dimensional, with each drop revealing great flavor and energy. An amazing wine. We dream of Valsana’s creamy gorgonzola al

cucchiaio a few meters down the tasting room. We reach it and yes, now we’re happy.

limeN 2008Giuliano miCheletti

A Riesling Renano from Giuliano Micheletti, a charming biodynamic winegrower with a vineyard on a hill near Trento and one in Drena, towards Lake Garda – in all, three hectares. His Riesling Renano 2008 – first bottling was in 2006 – is in great form: lively acidity for a solid and delicately citrusy wine. We really wanted to bring it to the dinner table.

foNtorfio

Our first experience with this small winery in Cossignano (Ascoli Piceno), founded in 2005. Only two hectares. What struck us was its honesty in pricing along with a good range of labels. Pecorino Cossineo 2011 was pleasant and flavorful; a delicious Rosato 2012, montepulciano and sangiovese with a particularly light color had uncommonly savory and taut flavor. Barely 600 bottles produced.

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14

the eNglish wiNe market is oNe of the gloBe’s most complex. The level of competition is high: no

other European country is as open to the entire world of imports. Large-scale distribution dominates the scene, accounting for 80% of sales. Taxes on alcohol are sig-nificant: two pounds sterling for excise duty on still wines, and £ 2.56 for spumanti, besides 21% of taxes. Despite all this, there are strong positive signs for Italian wine. The Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia tour, organized in col-laboration with the Italian Chamber of Commerce in the United Kingdom, demonstrated how much inter-est as well as real activity there is on this playing field. Ironmonger’s Hall hosted 30 wineries and an attentive, sophisticated public. Eleonora Guerini’s seminars were sold out. Among the wines that the British palate ap-preciated the most were Campidano di Terralba Tierbu (made from bovale grapes) from the Mogoro Il Nuraghe winery, Carignano del Sulcis Nur from Sardus Pater and Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso from Recchia. “In the last two years, Italian wine and Spanish wine are on the way

up,” observes Erica Parisi, International Sales Manager of the London Wine Fair. “In addition to the Prosecco phenomenon, Franciacorta is taking an important place. Among reds, Rioja is big now, but Sicily is holding its own.” Data confirm this comment: in 2013, Franciacorta achieved a 27% volume gain in this country. As for still whites, although the success of Pinot Grigio acted as a forerunner for Italian bianchi in general, the picture is still evolving. Gavi and Lugana are appearing on wine lists more frequently, something confirmed by numerous importers we interviewed. And what has the biggest im-pact? Serving regional wines and cuisine together. We see that with Terra Vergine, the restaurant opened in Chel-sea in June of 2012. Among their most popular dishes are Pallotte cacio e ova (cheese croquettes) and risotto al Montepulciano, accompanied by good Abruzzese wine. Owner Emanuele Costantini tells us, “When we opened, they asked us: What does Abruzzo mean? Is it something to eat? Today we’ve gone way beyond that first diffidence that we sometimes encounter here in England”. LR

Franciacortasempre più verde

by X

The many pleasures of tea A few steps off Liverpool Street and its frenetic rhythms is an oasis of peace,

quiet, and oriental harmony. TeaSmith is one of the best places to experience a vast range of carefully selected teas served to perfection. Everything, from the

temperature of the filtered water to the gentle straining for first, second and third infusions to the shape and texture of the pot is part of the ritual. We

chose a green tea, Long Jin, “superbly sharp, then soothing”, then Oolong Ali Shan Top Grade, grown 1,500 meters above sea level – aromatic, creamy palate,

long and fresh persistence. Among the options is a selection of aged teas, with a Puerh tea from the 1980s that will impress the most skeptical tasters. We sampled

excellent walnut and miso biscuits with Sencha green tea. Obviously, sugar, milk and tea bags are banned here. The atmosphere is relaxing and the right music plays in the background: we heard Nick

Cave. TeaSmith organizes courses and guided tastings. If you love tea, if you are curious about its range and its rhythms, you will end up loving this place. Just as we did.

Tea Smith 6, Lamb St., Spitafields, London www.teasmith.co.uk

London Highlights

EN PRIMEUREVENTS

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15

over 500 sommeliers aND wiNe faNs iN Singapore crowded into the Gothic chapel of the historic complex of Chijames on

Wednesday, March 12. Inaugurating the event, the third that Gambero Rosso has organized in the capital of the ex-British colony, Italian ambassador Paolo Crudele said, “Singapore is a rich state, with a population that is very attuned to the quality of life and loves Italian style. They pay careful attention to the wines of our beautiful country, and there’s

EN PRIMEUR 15

“you imagiNe what you Desire” is iNscriBeD at the entrance to the Museum of Contemporary Art of Sydney. It is ready to welcome the 60

wineries of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow, in Australia for the first time. We are almost 20,000 miles from home, here in front of the Opera House, but the enthusiasm about Italian wine expressed during the event is extraordinary. At the end of the day, we count 900 registered guests. The three seminars have been fully booked for over a month. It was an opening night, but no one realized it. What do market figures show?New zealaND aND fraNce aloNe accouNt for 54% of wine imports. Italy is in third place with a share of

7.3%. But according to the Italian trade agency, ICE, it is the fastest-growing share, up 17.7% in 2013. Sydney breathes wine and drinks a lot, but much is good quality. the creDit goes to maNy fiNe italiaN restaurateurs, above all, but also to a series of wine bars that carry Italian wines, especially from small and medium-sized wineries that would be hard to find even in Rome or Milan. “Despite the tax on wine, which is almost at 50%, Italian wine is doing very well. Everyone wants to learn and try new things,” Giorgio De Maria tells us. He is from Cantina & Enoteca 121BC in Surry Hills and handles only Italian wine, selling 90% by the glass.

SydneyWine House

still plenty of room to grow.” Traders from all over Southeast Asia participated in the Gambero event since “The Little Red Dot”, as the tiny, wealthy Asian republic is fondly nicknamed, re-exports about 40% of the wine in transit towards nearby markets such as Indonesia and Malaysia. “Singaporeans love Italian wine more and more,” observes Edwin Soon, of the popular Wine&Dine Magazine. “Having a cellar full of great labels is a status symbol.” Monica Larner agrees. She is the Italian specialist for The Wine Advocate, the prestigious American wine publication based in Singapore. “I am here with Robert Parker for a series of dinners, and tastings of Italian wine is one of the focal points.” “The Italian wine panorama is immensely rich, complex, multi-faceted,” comments Jessica Tan, journalist and blogger (www.SingaPoured.com). “But you need a guide, someone who takes you by the hand on that voyage. Today I discovered that Italy also produces great whites and spumanti, not only excellent red wines!” Marco Sabellico

The Little Red Hot

EN PRIMEUREVENTS

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Gran Selezione is the pinnacle of Chianti Classico

www.agricolasanfelice.com

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Prosecco production greater than Champagne’s. Something to cheer about?

It is undoubtedly a reason to be proud and celebrate the gain that Prosecco production made over that of Champagne in 2014. According to Ovse (Osservatorio Vini Spumanti Effervescenti) Prosecco production exceeded that of Champagne by 3 million bottles (307 versus 304 – see chart). But if we look at the euro value, any comparison with the French seems pitiless. Champagne is worth, at its origin, four times more than Prosecco, and that relationship is almost identical at the consumer level. One consolation, perhaps, can be found in comparison with Spanish Cava. “The Prosecco-Champagne difference,” observes Giampietro Comolli, head of Ovse, “clearly cannot be bridged. But perhaps Prosecco’s success stems from this advantage. It’s not a quality/price ratio, but identity/value, two parameters that raise the price level at the origin. Prosecco might make strides forward and in 5-7 years manage to double that of Cava. But it requires a unified strategy all along the line and a single pathway, plus the fielding of more resources, including the contribution of foreigners. That’s what happened with Champagne and what is happening for Cava as well.”

17XXXXXXXXXXXXNEWS

Invest in wine. A Molise winery offers 18% annual interestaND what if wiNe Became a miD-term investment with high profit margins? The idea comes from Molise where a young entrepreneur from Isernia, Antonio Valerio, owner of Cantine Valeria (30 years of history and 500,000 euros of turnover), has just launched his appealing proposal to investors. For a five-year commitment, he offers 18% annual interest, 40 times that of an Italian government bond. The operation will involve 4,000 bottles of the winery’s annual production of Pentro DOC. “It means that whoever invests 50 euros today will earn 95,” Valerio explains. “The only condition to respect is ideal storage of the product in a wine cellar.” Those who don’t have suitable space can store the wine with the Molise firm. He goes on, “The initiative isn’t a financial speculation, but comes from the desire to have the Isernia province emerge from anonymity by launching a real brand, Molise del vino.” If these are roses, an Italian expression goes, they will bloom. Time will tell.

Production(millions of bottles)

National consumption (millions of bottles )

Export/consumption(millions of bottles)

Total annual consumption (millions of bottles)

Total value at origin(billions of euros)

Average bottle valueat origin (euros)

Export value billions of euros)

Value at consumption (billions of euros)

307 270 304

103 82 160

190 175 147

296 260 300

0.98 0.89 4.3

3.3 3.27 14.14

1.7 1.3 4.4

2.5 1.9 9.2

PROSECCO CAVA CHAMPAGNE

Record wine exports power the agriculture sectorWine is the leading product among Italian agricultural exports. An analysis by Coldiretti (Confederazione nazionale coltivatori diretti or Federation of Italian farmers), based on figures from the Italian National Institute for Statistics, shows that wine is the country’s best-selling export, showing a 7% increase this year. Thanks to this performance, for the first time the entire agriculture sector reached sales of 33.5 billion euros, up 5%. Shipments of fruit and vegetables, pasta and olive oil are also significant. The greatest demand is from European markets, but Made in Italy is strong in the United States as well. The value of wine exports to the USA was over a billion euros in 2013. Asian markets were strong, counterbalancing the loss of internal markets. The concern now for 2014 is the rise of the euro, which risks putting a brake on exports.strictly commercial ones. “In this way, winegrowing Friuli,” concludes Rotolo “invests in itself.” And that means a lot, in a period in which foreign capital seems like the only possible solution.

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18

ROADSHOW EXTRA

18

Brut ‘More Rosé ’10CASTELLO DI CIGOGNOLA€16.50 6,000 BOTTLESwww.castellodicigognola.com

the wiNery

Castello di Cigognola, owned by Gianmarco and Letizia Moretti, is a wonderful structure built in 1212. This is the valley of Scuropasso, in Lombardy, where an imposing castle dominates the entire landscape. Year after year, this winery has proved to be a benchmark of quality for the entire zone of the Oltrepò Pavese. A promising production of Metodo Classico made from pinot nero grapes is an essential characteristic feature of the entire winery work.

the wiNe

Fine, continuous, lively perlage in the glass. As it’s brought to the nose, the glass reveals its Oltrepò matrix: notes of roses and berries. Freshness, lightness and aromatic elegance appear again on the palate.

PairiNg

With its pleasant notes of berries and balanced acidity, it pairs well with cured meats as an aperitif, thanks to its ability to leave the palate clean. Also good with grilled or fried fish.

wheN to DriNk it

Good wine and a relaxed evening with friends are always a perfect match. A pleasant after-work aperitif to roll away the fatigue of the day.

Trentino Müller Thurgau Vigna delle Forche ‘12LA VIS/VALLE DI CEMBRA€6.00 20,000 BOTTLESwww.la-vis.com

the wiNery

A true mountain winery. La Vis has a strong, authoritative management team intent on reinforcing the prestige of the wines of this historic cooperative winery. Every year they demonstrate the high-quality level of their wines. The vineyards, cared for by a slew of member growers, are located in various high-altitude zones.

the wiNe

It also has powerful character that can release flavorful and mineral sensations. Aromas of freshly-cut hay appear on the nose.

PairiNg

Fish, steamed or grilled, but also grilled vegetables and aged cheeses. The wine’s aromatic nature makes it a natural for the typical cold cuts of the Trentino, but it’s just as good accompanied by Parma’s excellent prosciutto.

wheN to DriNk it

Flavorful and mineral, with a pleasant acidity typical of mountain vineyards. So why not enjoy it during a typical Trentino lunch, taking advantage of the last skiing weekends of the season?

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19

ROADSHOW EXTRA

19

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Nativae ‘12TENUTA ULISSE€16.80 6,000 BOTTLESwww.tenutaulisse.it

the wiNery

Carefully made wines and strong, innovative marketing. Modern, ambitious, sometimes craftily seductive products, but impressively pleasant. This is the winery style of the Ulisse family, who have been working in this region for three generations. The range of labels they release is almost too vast and interesting. They pay particular attention to indigenous grapes and show a new-born curiosity about vinification with spontaneous fermentation.

the wiNe

Montepulciano with exuberant, clean varietal aromas supported by fresh acidity. Dense tannic weave, but very pleasant. A wine with crisp fruit and organoleptic characteristics that are typical and unmarred.

PairiNg

Game, full-flavored first courses, beef meatballs, meat-filled ravioli, risotto with sausages, tagliolini with meat sauce, roast lamb, grilled meats and aged hard cheeses. A versatile wine to taste with the most succulent among traditional Italian dishes.

wheN to DriNk it

With spring at the door, the first warm days and the heat of the sun drive away rain-filled clouds and wintry temperatures. But if the good weather is slow to show up, perhaps this Montepulciano can warm up a Sunday at home with the family.

Vermentino di Gallura Sup.Sciala ‘12VIGNE SURRAU€21 31,000 BOTTLESwww.vignesurrau.it

the wiNery

Volpe is one of the most important historic wineries in Friuli Venezia Giulia, today run with deep commitment by Emilio Rotolo and his son, Francesco. Once an enviable quality of production was attained and their effort repaid, their energy was turned to keeping their gains solid over time. They are a model winery and their vineyards have excellent exposures.

the wiNe

The Surrau winery was founded in 2003 a few kilometers from Porto Cervo in Sardinia. The winery has a handsome space for hosting tastings, exhibits and conferences. From the start, the owners showed that their policy was to make high-quality wines. They appreciate the indigenous island wines, Vermentino above all, and employ modern vinification techniques that bring out the characteristics of the terroir where the vineyards grow.

PairiNg

A perfect, dry white, typically Mediterranean. Ideal for dishes based on seafood, but also for fresh cheeses.

wheN to DriNk it

Wine suited to a beach vacation; what more can we say? Add delightful company and you’ll have your ideal summer evening.

19

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20

ROADSHOW EXTRA

The Tour. Next destinations

Participating WineriesAgricole Gussalli Beretta

Allegrini Estates

Arcanum

Baglio di Pianetto

Barone Pizzini

Bolla

Cantina Produttori di Cormòns

Cantina Tollo

Cantine Due Palme

Cantine Rallo

Casalfarneto

Castello di Cigognola

Castorani

Cavicchioli U. & Figli

Cavit

Colle Massari

Còlpetrone

Cusumano

De Stefani

Di Majo Norante

Elvio Cogno

F.lli Giorgi

Falesco

Fattoria del Cerro

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Firriato

Gaja

Gruppo La Vis

iGreco

Jermann

Leone De Castris

Livon

Lunae Bosoni

Marchesi di Barolo

Masi/Serego Alighieri

Medici Ermete & Figli

Il Molino di Grace

Monte delle Vigne

Monte Schiavo

Nals Margreid

Ottella

Provenza - Cà Maiol

Ruggeri & C.

San Felice

San Patrignano

San Salvatore

Santa Margherita Wine Group

Settesoli

Tenuta di Bibbiano

Tenuta Carretta

Tenuta Ulisse

Le Tenute di

Genagricola

Tenute Rubino

Tenute Sella&Mosca

Volpe Pasini

Torrevento

Valle Reale

Velenosi

Vigne & Vini

Vigne Surrau

Vigneti Le Monde

Villa Medoro

Villa Sandi

MEXICO CITYAcademy of San Carlosapril 23, 2014

SÃO PAULOHotel Uniqueapril 28, 2014

20

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2014

INTERNATONALEVENTS

worldtourGa

mbe

ro R

osso

trebicchieri

CALENDAR 2014

Gambero Rosso

Vini d’Italiatour 2014

INFO: [email protected] tel. +39 06 55112234 www.gamberorosso.it

23 april

MIAMI20 may

28 april

MEXICO CITY

VANCOUVER22 may

14 january

15 january

STOCKHOLM

COPENHAGEN

16 januaryOSLO

CHICAGO11 february

10 marchSYDNEY

DÜSSELDORF22 march

TOKYO31 october

NEW YORK6 february

12 marchSINGAPORE

SÃO PAULO

MOSCOW20 november

SHANGHAI3 november

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN jul aug sep OCT NOV

27 februaryLONDON

ROMEoctober

TOKYO6 june

SAN FRANCISCO13 february

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

Vini d’Italia

Vini d’Italia

Roadshow

Roadshow

Roadshow

Roadshow

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

HONG KONG5 november

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

20 marchMUNICHVini d’Italia

ZURICH25 november

WARSAW

Vini d’Italia

27 november

Vini d’Italia

Official lOgistic Partner

TRE BICCHIERI VINI D’ITALIA ROADSHOW

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22ESTERI

wine buy of the month

ROSSO DI VALTELLINA 2011

AR. PE. PE.30,000 bottles

Ex-cellar price 13 euroswww.arpepe.com

As you work, respect nature fully; preserve the integrity of

the fruit; express the terroir. These objectives guide the

youthful team of the AR. PE. PE winery. We are in Lombardy, among the terraced vineyards

of the Sondrio province on the border with Switzerland, in

the Valtellina zone, between the Adda River and the

Corna Mara massif. Isabella, Emanuele and Guido Pellizzati

are in firm command of this jewel-like winery, re-launched

over the years based on the experience of their father, Arturo. Rosso di Valtellina

2011, a monovarietal nebbiolo, is splendid, elegant,

fine and delicate, yet at the same time has decisive and

fascinating tones. In the glass, it is a pale, garnet-hued

red. Infinitely drinkable, it is perfectly in harmony. The nose

opens slowly with notes of forest fruits, apples and pears,

alcohol-preserved cherries, and typical earthy sensations. On the palate, coherent with what the nose perceived, it is floral, fresh and vibrant. It expresses a great deal,

and does so in a light, immediate way. The gift of

simplicity.

Vecchia Combop.zza Crocefisso, 4Bormio (SO)http://www.bormio.it/piazzacrocefisso/4/

Family-run, pleasant, authentic atmosphere, just like the cooking. Vecchia Combo is one of the best places to eat in these mountains so beloved by tourists, ideal for those who are looking for typical, generous, full-flavored food. For 30 euros, the restaurant serves a complete prix fixe menu including mineral water and the full-bodied house wine. Cured meats and cheeses open the meal, then come abundant portions of pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta) with topping, sciatt (cheese fritters), canederli (potato or bread dumplings), polenta and ribs, grilled meat, and for dessert, semifreddo al Braulio (mousse with liqueur). The dining rooms are warm and friendly, with typical wood paneling and old copper pots hanging on the walls to

sweeten the atmosphere even more. Service is smiling and sincerely thoughtful. Reserve ahead, especially for dinner. In the high season, it’s often open on Sundays as well.

twitter dixit

The Wine Treasury@TheWineTreasury 24 hNobody has ever come up with a good idea after a second bottle of water. #winequotes

Kop 305 @Kop305 Mar 20

Roy Evans: “Liverpool without European football is like a banquet without

wine.”

marisa d’vari @awinestory 26 mar

Is ProWein REALLY the most time efficient wine fair? After tlkg to dozens of producers on floor ...

http://awinestory.com/2014/03/prowein-

2014-a-success.html

editorLorenzo Ruggeri [email protected]

ADV Director Franco Dammicco [email protected]

DealerPoster Pubblicità[email protected]

Gambero Rosso Holding spa Via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy)

NEWS&TRENDS

april 2014

reStAurAnt of the month


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